Mechanics Minute: Transfer Case Pump Upgrade Install
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- Order the kit! www.merchant-automotive.com/T...
Here is the best upgrade you can make to your GM transfer case(model 136, 146, 246, 261, 261HD, 263HD, 263XHD, 261XHD). Prevent the ever increasing problem of pump rub.
What is "pump rub"
The GM transfer cases use a gear pump inside the case that is driven off the mainshaft. The pump forces oil to the planetary as well as the drive sprocket sleeve. Because the pump is driven by the shaft, the housing of the pump must 'float' in the rear housing. There are 5 tabs around the housing that fit into spots in the rear housing to position the pump. Over time, the pump can start to wear on the rear housing. GM installed a spring steel clip in the housing intended to prevent wear but the clip can break and render useless
Being that the pump housing is aluminum and is a harder material then the magnesium rear housing, it can wear a hole in the rear housing and cause a very small leak. This leak is high enough in the case that it typically will not leak when vehicle is not moving and therefor not leaving any drops on the ground. Typically the condition is not found until there is transfer case damage from running the case out of fluid.
Avoid costly repairs to your transfer case by preventing this condition. - Авто та транспорт
I just installed your fix ,it went perfect thanks for the vidio I'm a 70 year old guy I did this in my driveway by myself took about 8 hours to remove fix and replace so anyone can do this the transmission shop wanted$400 bucks to install the fix after I pulled the transfer case out took maybe 30 minutes to complete the fix look at the money I saved
Great to hear Perry!
Great video, helped big time when I did the pump upgrade!
Excellent video Eric. Thank you.
Great video! Exactly what I needed to know before doing this
Enjoyed the actual install video! Great job!
Good video and very easy task....IF you have whatever snap ring pliers you have there in your facility. I have bought 3 different sets of snap ring pliers and eventually had to just figure it out. I've been doing maintenance my entire life and this has been one of the top 5 most frustrating jobs I've ever done. I am actually on a break to keep from throwing things as I type this. Good parts, good video, good problem solving, but THE WORST if you don't have whatever pliers you guys have.
my kit-supplied silicone is going to dry before I can get the shaft last snap ring in.
Lock ring pliers is what they’re called. For snap rings with no eyelets on then
Great install video
Nice breakdown of the components guys.
Great video! Very good info!
Thank you so much for the video.
THANK YOU FOR THIS , GREAT JOB
Great video very good explained, thanks,
thank you for your video great awesome job hope for more videos...
Nice. My truck has started clicking and popping. I think it's the transfer case!
Excellent video.
Great video
hey! there i have question i have a trailblazer 03 that is leaking from the top of my transfer case at first my first time to view this i thought its was my front shaft output seal, when i take the shaft out the way i notice shaft seal is still in good shape not seen any leak from seal but i notice a fresh fluid coming from the top of the transfercase and i see this only hose all wet with oil, my big bam question is why this hose is loose and open with no where to connect it ( my transmission oil is on level engine filter oil change was done recent) but when i clean up the oil mess with a white towel and smell like engine oil like burn, so im thinking that my engine oil is leaking out from this hose why and why this hose is leaking out my engine oil. the thing is when i take my trailbazer for oil filter change at the shop the guy tell me that the engine has no oil at all and this is the 3 time that the shop tell me when i bring back to the shop regurly for oil change but in the engine area there is no oil leak anywhere they look and nothing seem to be leaking anywhere, but this hose got me thinking and i cant find no result what the cause of it. any help??? thanks
I have 2000 GMC Yukon. There is a loud clunk that happens every time I put it in reverse. Does this solve that issue? I have replaced and greased the slip yoke as well as replaced the fluid in the transfer case but no avail.
been having a problem with when i hit a bump in the road it kicks my truck out of gear. been going on for about 2 weeks. looked today and it’s rubbed a hole in the back case.
Perfect!
Ordered my kit, cant wait to throw this in!!
Anthony Spelts hey what’s the part number ?
How did the install go?
@William Winter Part number for the base kit is 10001. Here is a link to the kit : www.merchant-automotive.com/Transfer-Case-Pump-Upgrade-Kit
@@merchantautomotive easy peasy. Fit was perfect and since the install, I've put about 400 miles on the truck, couldnt be happier!
@@SuperDumbfounded That is great news!
Exceptional
What is the torque spec on the T15 pump screws?!
If I’ve got the case out for the pump upgrade, is there any other common failures or upgrades I should be doing while it’s out?
Is this "pump rub"a problem on the 243 electronic shift transfer case also? 1997 K1500
Is it better to order this kit or get the revised case half? My trucks np261 got the pin holes in and idk how long it’s been running dry. I found a new t case in good shape and plan to put the pump rub saver kit but I see they make updates case halves which is the better way to go ?
I prefer to use the pump plate along with an OEM housing. The reason for that is the OE housing is magnesium and the aftermarket housings are aluminum. Not a huge thing but that is a few more pounds hanging off the back of the transmission. Also, most of the aluminum housings are off shore and not up to the same quality as the OE magnesium units. Be a good idea to install the upgraded plate into your replacement unit for sure while it is apart.
So where does the supplied gasket go ????????????
Do you reinstall the pump intake magnet? I noticed you removed it but didn’t mention about reinstalling it. Thanks!
He removed it permanently because he replaced the drain and fill plugs with magnetic ones I believe
What retaining ring pliers do you use? The 9” pliers I have do not open far enough.
Bretney Karsjens - we had this issue come up regularly and we have since updated our pliers to fit without fail.
@Merchant Automotive Can you please provide the snap ring pliers make and brand info?
I am unable to get snap ring back on by following your video
@@merchantautomotive which are what?
@Merchant Automotive 9" , 11" what brand would be helpful.
Ordered your kit from xdp. New case half didn’t have the dowel pins and the old pins were mangled. Do these have to be in with the new case? Thanks!
It is helpful to have them in place as they do locate the front and rear half correctly.
I just did one and it had no dowel pins at all. I was real careful to alighn the case halves exactly. I still don't like it though.
Update, took back apart shortly after and installed new dowels
Why didnt u put that shim ring back on the pump before you put the gear on then the bearing then the snap ring ive got two of these transfer cases apart and both have this thin warped shim on the pump then the gear goes on the shaft then the bearing then the snap ring
This demo is on a 263XHD case which don’t use that wave washer. I have seen them on the 246 mostly
Ya them xd 246 from 1999-2001will not work n the 2004 i no untill 2006 the housing r the same but the shift Actuator motor has two plugins and a different from driveshaft gear different splines
What was wrong whit it.
What does when the pump is bad and you to replace it?
Wendell Guzmán - Over time, the pump tabs that prevent it from spinning in the case can start to wear on the rear housing. Since the pump housing is aluminum and is a harder material then the magnesium rear housing, it can wear a hole in the rear housing and cause a very small leak which will eventually cause catastrophic transfer case fluid loss.
Unfortunately, since the transfer case does not have a low fluid indicator the pump rub failure is often not found until there is transfer case damage from running the case out of fluid. There is no real way to know the extent of the damage inside the case until it is completely disassembled. In many instances, as long as the case has not run out of fluid, it can be repaired with a new rear housing and seal and prevented from ever happening again using the upgrade kit.
@@merchantautomotive thank you so much master.
so this isn't a common problem on my 241 or 243c transfer case apparently. that answers my question.
Does the pump run even if 4wheel drive is not engaged?
Yep, the pump is driven off the main shaft which is always moving.
Can this be done in chassis or have you got to pull the whole t-case?
Pulling the transfer case will make the job much easier then trying to attempt it in chassis.
Thank ya kindly.
It can be but it's difficult by Yourself. It's better to pull it out. Next time I will pull it.
Does this do anything about the pump rub issue that is so common on these GM transfer cases?
This is the fix for the issue! Our pump upgrade prevents it from happening.
Merchant Automotive my 2002 Sierra 1500 just got the pin hole leak. Big mess.
@@martech360 then you have to also replace the case half.
can you do this in chassis jw
Buy a Ford. Don't have to worry about upgrades
As someone who worked on Fords, I encountered 10x more transfer case failures on them versus GM trucks.