What a question! Did you do the bike finder on their parts list? We had the ORVS kit for the fork and the piston and shim kit for the shock. We also had stiffer springs for the correct weight. The best bet if you're unsure is to contact them directly :)
@@BrakeMagazine I am looking K-tech site presently and find no mention of an ORVS kit, there is an ORDS kit but it is $900 US so not sure if that's the same as what you described since you mentioned around $500 all in. thanks for your time
@@pinnacleroofing9841 Hey, The ORDS kit is a cartridge kit. The ORVS Kit is a replacement valving and piston set up. store.ktechsuspension.com/front-fork-piston-kit-yamaha-tenere-700.html?find=Yamaha_XTZ700+Tenere_2021
If you get in touch with K-tech, they have a very good customer service, I chatted to a guy over the phone and on WhatsApp- he took all the usual details.. my weight with gear, bike type, whether any lowering or seat hight should be considered, wight of luggage etc and gave me a few options, listed everything I needed, I couldn't have asked for more to be fair
Good comparison, thanks for making the time. I have my T7 since first batch of July 2019. I immediately felt the need for improved suspension but there were no products out there. Fast forward Tractive/Rally Raid released their setup and also Ohlins did with their road oriented STX shock and open cartridge system. Went for the full Tractive extreme like the one shown here due to all the hype online about their 35mm piston. Had problems with the fork setup since the beginning, the shimstack configuration and digressive piston made the fork very harsh on my typical spanish rocky terrain. Never bottomed out even on the most extreme jumps, but even opening compression all out didn't solve the problem, it deflected dangerously on slow technical rocky terrain. Tractive sent a set of softer springs that their had initially designed in their charts but obviously that didn't change the issue as SAG was ok. Had to spend money at the end in a suspension specialist with a dyno machine, and after 3 different shimstacks, I have somehow found a good setup. He immediately saw the original graph on the dyno and told me this was similar response to an SBK bike. He also told me that having just one leg for compression and one for rebound even with bigger pistons are a drawback because they control less oil flow than a twin piston set up. You just have to see that all premium off road suspension have compression/rebound on both legs and the single leg thing is left for ease of use in road applications. All in all, it was a bad experience after spending so much money. As far as I know, after many complaints by customers, Tractive have changed their internal settings but I can't tell how they are. If I was going to spend big buck again, I would install a full 48mm Ohlins fork or a BOANO 48mm KYB kit up front. They are proper forks and re-sell value if you change the bike is very high.
This is a really interesting point and raises some interesting thoughts. I had almost the opposite problem. I never, ever felt like the suspension was too harsh on our model. maybe mine is with the newer generation shim stack. The biggest problem I had was a difficulty in finding front to rear balance. The spring rates weren't quite right and over time and testing I got it very well set up. I found the rear over sprung and the front struggled with bottoming resistance. I also found that it was very easy to loose any balance between comfort and stiffness on the compression and rebound clickers, but also that the rebound speed made a HUGE difference to plushness over rocks. By the end I understood the suspension well enough that I got it working incredibly well on rocks and harsher hits, with a balance between the two. I would still have liked the front to hold up a bit better but generally it was really good. I think the problem is probably like you found; a single sided set-up is cheaper and lighter but having two identical forks is possibly better again. overall I was happy with the set-up but it did take some head scratching to get really happy with it.
Great timing for my upgrade- Excellent work as usual! Just spent a few days riding in Idaho with buddies: we had 2 700's, 790, 890, 990 and 1090 to do back to back seat time comparisons. All bikes were stock suspension. KTM definitely better suspension, but the 700 engine is phenomenal IMO. Easier and more fun to ride than the Kool Aid bikes. Power is very linear as my brother put it. We also did a roll on 4th and 5th gear road drag race 700 v 790: 700 pulled away first until about 3-5 seconds in where the KTM power kicked in and slowly pulled away. I was surprised on the T7 power. REALLY love this bike and am not tempted AT ALL to "upgrade" to the 890> Can't wait to get the suspension done. Thanks again.
My T7 with an exhaust a fuel controller is even better. better down low, smoother, more grip and better in the mid-range. The T7 motor is something special.
AWSOME stuff The differences between the three suspensions were somewhat expected after you explained it all (if that makes any sense) The jump from entry level (Hyper Pro) to mid level (Ktech) just about always produces the biggest bang for the buck across the board in most suspension setups. It’s the jump from mid level to high end that generally closes the gap between the two, but that’s where all of the smaller attention to detail and precise adjustability are to be had (which in the right hands can produce phenomenal results) Super great video that brings to light what can be achieved if one so desires 👍🏾
Nice and clear video 👏 Only thing I did to my T7 was change 85Nm rally raid rear spring and put in 2.5mm spaces in the front. Don’t think the front one got much different but the rear is much more rugged to take my weight. Maybe I will do a big upgrade at some point but for now it does the job 😊
Massive suspension nerd here (I service and rebuild MTB suspension for a living) - loved the video. Awfully tempted to get a T7 stablemate for my 1090 AdvR.
Ktech it is then, time to give Martin a call at Torque Racing. Thanks for this Llell, really appreciate the effort you put in, not easy to do, on your own!
Currently gathering parts, I’m stoked that a few manufacturers have been willing to sponsor the build. First time I’ve experienced that as a ‘UA-camr’ and that’s a great feeling. Watched the video now, as good as always. Everytime I watch a video of yours I immediately find my book and start planning a new video. You’re a big inspiration and I hope to shake your hand one day. Best of luck!
Was a good watch! I’ve got a Rally Raid open cartridge front and a heavier spring on the standard rear shock, rides amazingly. Another option between the K-Tech and all out Rally Raid/ Tractive kit! Cheers for the awesome vids👍🏻
I just had my bike resprung and revalved with the K-Tech kit as described above - It's exactly as you depict and I could not be happier for the money. Thanks for the amazing straight forward info. Subbed and Liked!
Great review . Food for thought on a future improvement to the suspension . Do have the Rally Raid 95nm rear spring but no other improvements to the suspension . That was the absolute least I do at the time as I don't weigh 168lbs with gear panniers etc .
The k tech front springs alone are enough for me, a huge improvement, no bottoming out and cheap and easy to fit without removing the forks from the bike.
Scientific accuracy can be limited, but it easy to understand the difference between cheap and expensive suspensions nad the video in my opinion shows without any doubt how the expensive suspensions work much better than the cheap ones. Anyway I had a BMW 1150 ADV (in 2003) and everybody told me that the suspensions weren't really good, so I bought two new expensive suspensions from WP and I can assure you that the difference was huge, both offroad and onroad. I wouldn't save money on the suspensions, thay are too imposrtant, unless you have a bike with good suspensions, like a KTM. Thank you for the video, very interesting and as I already said, in my opinion, well done.
Hey Llewellyn, would you mind sharing your clicker settings on the Rally Raid kit? i have the same kit and im struggling to find a balanced setting thats plush enough for small bumps but firm enough for big hits
I don’t have them any more and they changed a lot. Is it the fork or the shock? On mine it took time to get the internal spring rates and oil weights correct. I had a little bit of the same circle.
I have the K Tech valve kits and springs, I fitted the rear spring myself first last year as it’s the easiest first fix for the soft rear suspension. Had the valve kits and front spring fitted and set up done, including the rear spring the total was just under £1,000, which is over half the cost of the Rally Raid set up, so it’s a verry competitive option as it’s not that far behind it.
Thank you again I'm a big fan of your magazine and videos... I am very interested to see a comparison between a standard T7 and one with the Hyperpro. I think Hyperpro is the cheapest and most convenient mod for so many people but I couldn't see in this video how much of an improvement it is from the standard ... Thanks again
I really enjoyed this. I've fitted K tech to my CRF300 Rally, a bike with a notoriously soft and cheap standard set up and it's a totally different bike. I think a deeply scientific approach can take away from the point, how does it feel, do you ride with more confidence, accuracy, smoothness? They are just as relevant to me and this test captured that brilliantly. The video footage showing the amount and speed of compression were cool too. Nice work Llel 👍
Curious what clicker settings you settled on for the Rally Raid/Tractive setup? I have the closed cartridge extended setup on mine and ended up softening the compression/rebound even more to plush the suspension up. About 11,000 miles of off road later and I love it.
With just the hyperpro kit, or even standard, you can adjust something else... oil level in the forks. Next to oil there's air in the fork, the air compresses when the fork compresses and works like an extra spring, by adding more oil to the fork the airchamber is smaller and the 'airspring' increases capacity and gets stiffer. It's a well known method of tuning forks and preventing diving. In means of setup, always setup your springs first, they're responsible for the geometry, there should be measurements (static sag / rider sag) from Yamaha... After the geometry is right you start fiddling with the clickers for compression (low/high speed) and rebound.
It's pretty tried and tested with the T7 forks. The stock valving is poor, hence why most people eho do upgrade end up getting some kind of revalve, either via KTECH or other brand 🙂
@@BrakeMagazine I can imagine, I've ridden one and it felt like a yoyo compared to my SXF with wp conevalve / trax. A bit like those scary bouncy sticks they had years ago :) Doing steep downhills with a lot of bumps can be scary without proper suspension. But even with the best suspension, a custom valving can be needed to get what you want, clickers are great but don't change characteristics, in most cases they're just a bypass to let more of less oil flow through the shimstack / valve. And my comment about setting up geometry is still valid as well for any suspension, set the sag correct and then start fiddling with the clickers. Don't change too much at once, you won't be able to figure out what caused the change. I would be interested to find out if the forks could be replaced with larger diameter forks, for example it's quite easy to get a pair of WP AER forks out here, lots of people replace them with WP cone valve. Some EXC riders swap to WP AER as the originel EXC forks aren't great as well. They can be revalved but it'll never be a really brilliant fork.
great video guys .... say hey to dad we missed him on this one..... its a shame people are so snarky that you feel the need to apologize for obvious and unimportant things so theyll not flood comments with hatefulness and nitpickin..... id like to apologize for those folks theyre just dumb and dont know better your true fans totally git it keep up the great work please
Great video! I’m looking at getting either Andreani or Tractive fork cartridges and Tractive shock. If seat height is not a big issue, do you think I should go for +30 mm suspension travel on both front and rear, or keep it stock length? I ride 60% road & 40% off road Spanish rocky trails. I can’t find good list of pros and cons for having longer suspension on T7. Thanks!
I would say that unless your riding is quite extreme, high speed, I wouldn't worry about the longer suspension. It's going to raise the centre of gravity a lot and if you ride much technical terrain it'll make it a fair bit harder.
@Brake Magazine - For the K-tech setup does it retain the same amount of settings (clickers) for each function of the fork and shock as the OE? If yes what was your baseline (and/or final settings) for the fork and shock? Thank you :)
TLDR: KTM has an amazing chassis. Yamaha has an amazing engine. You can make each move toward the other with money. Xplor Pro is great. Extreme is great with time and fettling. --- This is, I think a big consideration for a lot of people but really it's gonna come down to what you ride, not the suspension. Personally, I feel the Xplor Pro forks are incredible but they also cost twice as much. They're as good as any fork on the market and while the RRP Extreme forks are very good, I don't think they come out of the box ready to go. That's my personal 2 cents, not fact 😂 I believe the same applies to the shock. When we tested the KTM with Xplor Pro is was superb from minute one. My T7 took a lot of setting up to get it feeling close to the same level. The real question here though, is going to come down to you and what you ride. The 890 is a better at faster riding out of the box, but the engine takes more managing in tricky terrain. The T7 is the opposite. It's very good in technical riding as you'll see in EP #004 next week but takes more fettling to work better on fast flow trails or in the desert. Again, just my feelings on the subject
Was thinking about a trip to the Yukon and Alaska in my T7. No offroading but gravel roads and big ruts on the Alaska Highway. Should I fit K Tech or Rally Raid suspension for that or stay stock? Trying to keep the bike light - fitting an Akra pipe and not fitting any engine guards.
Anyone guard really don’t add much weight that can’t be removed elsewhere. For example tail tidy and lithium battery will offset that weight, especially lowers. The stock suspension is more than good enough to get you by. If you want something extra KTECH is great budget option.
Thanks for the review! I had the K-tech installed based on this very review. I have to say my experience is very different! I find it to be really stif, it doesnt dive while braking, which is good, but I feel every single stone i go through even though I set the clicks at the softest. Maybe someone else has this feeling as well?
Is Brake Magazine trying to help me? Thank you for even answering! Had it installed by profesionals here in spain. I wheigh 63kg and was recommended the 6.6N front springs and 80N rear shock spring. It came with factory standard clicks (way too stiff) and changed it to: FF comp 20/22 cliks open FF rebound 20/30 clicks open RS comp 18/20 open Rs rebound 16/18 open Even now it feels like the forks do not even move with the small stuff like road bumps. Maybe it is how it’s supposed to feel.. but everyone seems to be very happy with this kit and I am not 😅
It’s not. It sounds like the springs are maybe still stiff. At 65kgs you are really light! Sometimes that can be difficult to get the spring rates right, but it may also be too much spring preload. The one thing I would also say is that sometimes, have rebound too quick can feel horrific. Try leaving the compression out and going in on the rebound 2-3 clicks at a time. Otherwise, you can use the KTECH site to check the spring rates. Something isn’t right for sure!
Very nice video! Do you maybe know which springs (nm) you used with the ktech setup? I am getting it done right now and I’ll be getting the 90 rear and 6.9 in the front. That seems stiff to me? I weight around the 110kg fully geared up.
Is there a particular reason why you didn’t opt for the longer travel version suspension? I rech the ground with flat feet and currently debating if i should or shoudn’t go longer travel
great to see, I am about to get touratech progressive springs and a heavier weight oil for the front on my F750GS, to reduce the diving on breaking, hopefully this improves the bike
Hi I realise this is an old series but can you say in your opinion how the world raid setup compares with the different setups you have tested here. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated
So I think the KTECH, from memory not direct comparison is similar to the World Raid in performance. The Rally Raid is capable of being more sensitive and having better bottoming resistance. It's basically capable of everything to slightly higher level, but it also requires effort to set up. The World Raid it pretty good standard.
Hyerpro components are good for street use but not for offroad use. Linear springs with a riders' weight match are the better choice. You also need to consider the breakaway torque of the fork and use high quality fork dust caps / oil seals and the right fork grease. I'm looking forward to experience the difference between OEM stock components with stiffer springs vs. Öhlins catridge & shock. BTW great Ténéré 700 series 💙💛🏁👍🏻
Love the channel and the vids, great quality and very engaging. Why did you choose the t7 as a platform for this series instead of a ktm 890? Was it just price? Or do you dislike the low slung tank? Is it better for single trail/harder stuff? Thanks and again love your content.
Nope. I kinda felt like it was a more interesting project. The KTM 890 is really good out of the box. If I bought one I'd probably just ride it and not really tweak it. The Yam is the opposite. It's flawed stock but got a ton of potential 🙂
I would love to hear what your clicker settings are for the Rally Raid front forks. And the high speed / low speed and rebound on the rear shock of the rally raid
Correct spring rate is critical. My K-tech kit with wrong (too hard) front springs was a nightmare, soon as i swich to a correct one (only one step softer - 6.3 instead of 6.6) it becomes a great set up.
Yup. I think that's a really T& related problem. I have had the same with the Rally Raid. Shock was too stiff, forks slightly too soft and the whole bike was a mess. Fixing those was dreamy.
@@BrakeMagazine That't not T7 specific, wrong springs mean wrong geometry. Some bikes will become really evil at the frontend without the right geometry, steering dampers are used then to compensate but in most cases it can be solved with the right springs and sag. Correct spring + correct preload = correct geometry. We have the same issue on ktm sxf's, a few mm off in sag drastically changes the bike in a negative way.
The K tech is the winner, it goes with the value of the bike. When did people get so spoiled, when you jump a 425lb bike it’s harsh man. That is that plain and simple. Put some protection on the bike and adjust the stock suspension after the correct rear spring for your weight is put on and just ride it. Forget all the hogshit and ride it. It’s big and fun and good
Weight have nothing to do with being harsh on jumps. I jump my 250kg Africa twin all the time, it's never harsh on landing an rear very rarely bottoms out. Front usually bottoms easier. Now I did revalve and front bottoms super easily. But it's better that way because it's less harsh where it's matter, on road bumps, gravel chatter etc
Fascinating video Llel, my dad an I have been trying to decide on two bikes to buy to get off to Norway an Iceland, the 890R an the Norden 901 Standard an T7 have been really interesting watching your vids. It's a shame in a way Yam an alot of the Japanese companies really don't do better suspension from the get go I'd rather that than phone connectivity an stuff. Really undecided which of the three to get at the moment, the Reliability of the Yamaha seems to catch my attention but the suspension on the 890R although the cam an immobiliser issues are a worry from what I've read up though they've made improvements to the followers so they are wider. I wish Yamaha would sort the exhaust hanger as well, I know there's aftermarket pipes but I prefer stock ones for my ears. Just a few thoughts from someone who's confused as to what to buy at the mo haha!
Buy the pretty one. Honestly, I think the experience of those things are all about the same once you're riding the bike. Especially in those places you mentioned. Also, fit heated grips.
@@BrakeMagazine Thanks Llel 😊 really enjoying the channel 👍👌an yep heated everything for my dad he hates the cold lol but it's been our dream trip an adventure of a lifetime so really excited. Hopefully everything goes well with his mri prostate scan he's having at the moment an we get to do it still together, looking at the different bikes an talking about the variations has been a welcome distraction from a sudden medical thing neither of us expected.
Great work! I really need to get a better understanding of suspension and heard there’s a book called “The Suspension Bible” that’s worth the purchase. I have experience that suspension can truly transform your bike and riding. Also that Tractive is basically the best for bigger bikes
after 3 years riding T7 on all types of tracks enduro mx tracks and your every day full of big rocks tracks. you learn a lot. me and my mate run high end and just revalve and springs. one bike has full ohlins with 48mm forks and tfx rear. my bike has a two stage revalve set up and have a revalved rear shock and springs in and run a tfx rear ohlins as well. both set ups are very very good. you can push both set up very hard. ohlins have a slight edge when you are at the limits of the T7. but most riders would not find the limits off a good revalve with the air gap adjusted. or why bother spending on exspensive sus and just buy the raid suspension and put it on your T7 £1/000 and you get more travel as well . the raid suspension is very good standard. and T7 is 15kg lighter . but you will proble delete this like you have on other comments i have put on.
Increased Compression 4 Clicks over standard. I think that was 16 click from fully out, 8 from fully in. You can probably find a better setting but on the day this felt good :)
@@BrakeMagazine Thank you for the great review! Do you know what the K-tech standard clicker settings are? I did not get any documentetion when I bought the kit.
I also have the K-tech kit. Does anyone know the the base setup for clickers or a setup that works for them? I have the K-tech kit installed, but there are no K-tech dealers where I live. I feel a bit lost with mine... It seems to lack rebound on the shock and generaly is less comfortable than the standard one for me.
I might be able to help. :) I don't know what you have or haven't done, so I'll assume nothing. Can you elaborate on 'lack rebound' Do you meaning it is rebound quickly or slowly? This might help me. Setup - I think the Sag on the T7 is really important and with most suspension, so is rebound damping on the clickers. Sag - Make sure the rear shock is at 10% static and 30% with you sat on it. That's more important for fork performance than I can express in words on this bike. Clickers - I believe our KTECH T7 came with all clickers, rebound and compression in the middle of the range. On ours that was really plush. It moved loads at the start and had a 'couch like' feel. It was plush, much and slightly un-responsive. It soaked everything up. We added 4 clicks of compression front and rear and that gave some feeling of the ground back. If you want a softer, smoother feel you can either soften the compression or try slowing the rebound. Often I found that the rebound being too fast simulates a harsh feeling. The best way to test this is to find some trail where the bike feels uncomfortable and repeat it, moving the clickers two at a time. I would start with the rebound before the compression too. Lastly, I would suggest calling KTECH in the UK. That are really helpful on the phone. :)
@@BrakeMagazine Thanks a lot for taking your time to give such a detailed reply! The sag settings are correct and I tried two options, close to max preload on stock shock spring and 6mm preload shims on stock fork springs and also K-tech 6.3N fork and 85N shock spring with no extra preload. With gear I weigh about 88-90kg. When I say lack of rebound on the shock I mean too little rebound dampening, bike rebounds fast when I press/release the back of it. I have the rebound screw 3 clicks from fully closed. The thing I complain about most is the shock, it is harsh on small bumps and rocks also washboard type of things. I'll try your suggested standard settings in the middle of the range and see how it feels. I did the forks myself but gave the shock to a suspension shop as I have no equipment to fill it. I wonder if it is possible that they installed the piston the other way round... Thanks again! Keep up the good work! 👍
Talk to me about your fork stick out. Looks like you have nearly nothing sticking out of the triple - I find that it gets squirrelly around 70mph with not enough weight on the front. Thoughts?
Depends a lot on the rear sag and spring rate. We ran 10% static sag and 30% rider sag on the Rally Raid bike with the forks effectively flush. That feels super well balanced everywhere but that's with the Rally Raid suspension. On the stock suspension I had more drop through and the spring much stiffer to get some balance and it never felt right. I find the T7 to be very tricky with this. You really need the sag setting on the shock perfect to get it to handle well.
Nope, it wasn't. We have three different weight riders and so it's not really possible as we moved outside of the correct spring ranges. However, we did our best. It's why I said the test wasn't Scientific :)
I'd say your weight has nothing to do with it. You're probably a bit light for the stock springs and the suspension performance will be a lot better still :)
@@BrakeMagazine I'm trying to ask on a scale of 1-10 suspension wise where would the 890r and the fully loaded Rally raid T700 come? Or is the reference point too far off?
It’s informative and good UA-cam but I don’t understand upgrading the Yamaha’s suspension, $20k bike that needs $5k of suspension upgrades or you can buy a $23k KTM ready to go with WP 🤷♂️🤷♂️
This video is useless if all of the riders don't have same weight and skills. If 1 rider rides all of them on same track it'll be more clear what they personally feel about each shocks setup 🎯
@@BrakeMagazine I just had to drop thousands of dollars just to get the bike decent to ride. Great off road yet, it was top heavy but for the pavement journey there you're going to have to purchase a lot of things too make it an enjoyable ride. Even after all I put into it I still didn't like it and sold it. Very expensive lesson learned.
Could you please give details about the Ktech setup?! I went to their site and I’m lost about what parts I would want. Thanks and love the videos!!
What a question! Did you do the bike finder on their parts list?
We had the ORVS kit for the fork and the piston and shim kit for the shock. We also had stiffer springs for the correct weight. The best bet if you're unsure is to contact them directly :)
@@BrakeMagazine I am looking K-tech site presently and find no mention of an ORVS kit, there is an ORDS kit but it is $900 US so not sure if that's the same as what you described since you mentioned around $500 all in. thanks for your time
@@pinnacleroofing9841 Hey,
The ORDS kit is a cartridge kit. The ORVS Kit is a replacement valving and piston set up.
store.ktechsuspension.com/front-fork-piston-kit-yamaha-tenere-700.html?find=Yamaha_XTZ700+Tenere_2021
In the UK you can’t buy direct as it has to be fitted but a suspension specialist, both damper rods need machining a bit off their length.
If you get in touch with K-tech, they have a very good customer service, I chatted to a guy over the phone and on WhatsApp- he took all the usual details.. my weight with gear, bike type, whether any lowering or seat hight should be considered, wight of luggage etc and gave me a few options, listed everything I needed, I couldn't have asked for more to be fair
This is a very down to earth comparison - budget vs mid vs premium. Awesome stuff!
Good comparison, thanks for making the time.
I have my T7 since first batch of July 2019. I immediately felt the need for improved suspension but there were no products out there.
Fast forward Tractive/Rally Raid released their setup and also Ohlins did with their road oriented STX shock and open cartridge system. Went for the full Tractive extreme like the one shown here due to all the hype online about their 35mm piston. Had problems with the fork setup since the beginning, the shimstack configuration and digressive piston made the fork very harsh on my typical spanish rocky terrain. Never bottomed out even on the most extreme jumps, but even opening compression all out didn't solve the problem, it deflected dangerously on slow technical rocky terrain. Tractive sent a set of softer springs that their had initially designed in their charts but obviously that didn't change the issue as SAG was ok. Had to spend money at the end in a suspension specialist with a dyno machine, and after 3 different shimstacks, I have somehow found a good setup.
He immediately saw the original graph on the dyno and told me this was similar response to an SBK bike. He also told me that having just one leg for compression and one for rebound even with bigger pistons are a drawback because they control less oil flow than a twin piston set up. You just have to see that all premium off road suspension have compression/rebound on both legs and the single leg thing is left for ease of use in road applications. All in all, it was a bad experience after spending so much money.
As far as I know, after many complaints by customers, Tractive have changed their internal settings but I can't tell how they are.
If I was going to spend big buck again, I would install a full 48mm Ohlins fork or a BOANO 48mm KYB kit up front. They are proper forks and re-sell value if you change the bike is very high.
This is a really interesting point and raises some interesting thoughts. I had almost the opposite problem.
I never, ever felt like the suspension was too harsh on our model. maybe mine is with the newer generation shim stack. The biggest problem I had was a difficulty in finding front to rear balance. The spring rates weren't quite right and over time and testing I got it very well set up. I found the rear over sprung and the front struggled with bottoming resistance.
I also found that it was very easy to loose any balance between comfort and stiffness on the compression and rebound clickers, but also that the rebound speed made a HUGE difference to plushness over rocks. By the end I understood the suspension well enough that I got it working incredibly well on rocks and harsher hits, with a balance between the two. I would still have liked the front to hold up a bit better but generally it was really good.
I think the problem is probably like you found; a single sided set-up is cheaper and lighter but having two identical forks is possibly better again. overall I was happy with the set-up but it did take some head scratching to get really happy with it.
Great timing for my upgrade- Excellent work as usual! Just spent a few days riding in Idaho with buddies: we had 2 700's, 790, 890, 990 and 1090 to do back to back seat time comparisons. All bikes were stock suspension. KTM definitely better suspension, but the 700 engine is phenomenal IMO. Easier and more fun to ride than the Kool Aid bikes. Power is very linear as my brother put it. We also did a roll on 4th and 5th gear road drag race 700 v 790: 700 pulled away first until about 3-5 seconds in where the KTM power kicked in and slowly pulled away. I was surprised on the T7 power. REALLY love this bike and am not tempted AT ALL to "upgrade" to the 890> Can't wait to get the suspension done. Thanks again.
My T7 with an exhaust a fuel controller is even better. better down low, smoother, more grip and better in the mid-range. The T7 motor is something special.
Given the limitations of your testing I think you did a fantastic job of showing the viewer what's happening. Excellent 👍
Whoop whoop, that’s me and my bike! Finally I’m on the internet! Yes!!!!
You 're an internet hero!
Time to start influencing people! 😂
@@michaelcerami3740 Love it!!!!
Just found your channel and this series, honestly some of the best T7 related viewing on youtube. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Great video and discussion. I really appreciated the freeze-frame moments that showed the differences quite clearly. This was a very valuable episode.
AWSOME stuff The differences between the three suspensions were somewhat expected after you explained it all (if that makes any sense) The jump from entry level (Hyper Pro) to mid level (Ktech) just about always produces the biggest bang for the buck across the board in most suspension setups. It’s the jump from mid level to high end that generally closes the gap between the two, but that’s where all of the smaller attention to detail and precise adjustability are to be had (which in the right hands can produce phenomenal results) Super great video that brings to light what can be achieved if one so desires 👍🏾
Thank you this gives me a little understanding about the stock to modified ‼️‼️‼️‼️
Nice and clear video 👏 Only thing I did to my T7 was change 85Nm rally raid rear spring and put in 2.5mm spaces in the front. Don’t think the front one got much different but the rear is much more rugged to take my weight.
Maybe I will do a big upgrade at some point but for now it does the job 😊
Amen!
Massive suspension nerd here (I service and rebuild MTB suspension for a living) - loved the video. Awfully tempted to get a T7 stablemate for my 1090 AdvR.
Ktech it is then, time to give Martin a call at Torque Racing. Thanks for this Llell, really appreciate the effort you put in, not easy to do, on your own!
Thanks for the kind words! Say hi to Martin 🙂
More than all, congratulations for the effort and honesty in the review!!
Thanks!
Great timing! just talked with my mechanic about K tech today.
Thank you for reassuring me that it's going to be awesome 😎
Hope you enjoy it!
I have been waiting so long for this Llel!
I’m currently in the midst of creating a T7 build series myself actually 😁
How is it going?
Currently gathering parts, I’m stoked that a few manufacturers have been willing to sponsor the build. First time I’ve experienced that as a ‘UA-camr’ and that’s a great feeling.
Watched the video now, as good as always. Everytime I watch a video of yours I immediately find my book and start planning a new video. You’re a big inspiration and I hope to shake your hand one day. Best of luck!
Woohooo been waiting for this! Cheers guys🎉
Hope you learnt something!
Was a good watch! I’ve got a Rally Raid open cartridge front and a heavier spring on the standard rear shock, rides amazingly. Another option between the K-Tech and all out Rally Raid/ Tractive kit! Cheers for the awesome vids👍🏻
I just had my bike resprung and revalved with the K-Tech kit as described above - It's exactly as you depict and I could not be happier for the money. Thanks for the amazing straight forward info. Subbed and Liked!
I like the side by side slow motion, nice testing
Great test, the best there is on UA-cam. Thanks!
I installed the Ktec. Springs for my weight and motul oil. Stock damping. Working much better bottoming now rare. Goes right where I point it
Great review . Food for thought on a future improvement to the suspension . Do have the Rally Raid 95nm rear spring but no other improvements to the suspension . That was the absolute least I do at the time as I don't weigh 168lbs with gear panniers etc .
Great information and perspective on those bikes and the set up.
Cheers Dan!
The k tech front springs alone are enough for me, a huge improvement, no bottoming out and cheap and easy to fit without removing the forks from the bike.
Nice!
Scientific accuracy can be limited, but it easy to understand the difference between cheap and expensive suspensions nad the video in my opinion shows without any doubt how the expensive suspensions work much better than the cheap ones. Anyway I had a BMW 1150 ADV (in 2003) and everybody told me that the suspensions weren't really good, so I bought two new expensive suspensions from WP and I can assure you that the difference was huge, both offroad and onroad. I wouldn't save money on the suspensions, thay are too imposrtant, unless you have a bike with good suspensions, like a KTM. Thank you for the video, very interesting and as I already said, in my opinion, well done.
I'm glad it was valuable for you! Glad to hear it gave the 1150 some life too!
This is the topic I was waiting on!
Hope it was helpful!
Hey Llewellyn, would you mind sharing your clicker settings on the Rally Raid kit? i have the same kit and im struggling to find a balanced setting thats plush enough for small bumps but firm enough for big hits
I don’t have them any more and they changed a lot. Is it the fork or the shock?
On mine it took time to get the internal spring rates and oil weights correct. I had a little bit of the same circle.
I have the K Tech valve kits and springs, I fitted the rear spring myself first last year as it’s the easiest first fix for the soft rear suspension.
Had the valve kits and front spring fitted and set up done, including the rear spring the total was just under £1,000, which is over half the cost of the Rally Raid set up, so it’s a verry competitive option as it’s not that far behind it.
Exactly my feelings :)
I love these videos! You are making really good contents! It’s interesting for me even if I still have to buy my T7, but anyway really entertaining!
ALWAYS FABULOUS and informative
Thanks!
Thank you again
I'm a big fan of your magazine and videos...
I am very interested to see a comparison between a standard T7 and one with the Hyperpro. I think Hyperpro is the cheapest and most convenient mod for so many people but I couldn't see in this video how much of an improvement it is from the standard ... Thanks again
A little bit. The bike is more balanced. Would good for normal dirt roads and street riding
I really enjoyed this. I've fitted K tech to my CRF300 Rally, a bike with a notoriously soft and cheap standard set up and it's a totally different bike. I think a deeply scientific approach can take away from the point, how does it feel, do you ride with more confidence, accuracy, smoothness? They are just as relevant to me and this test captured that brilliantly. The video footage showing the amount and speed of compression were cool too. Nice work Llel 👍
Curious what clicker settings you settled on for the Rally Raid/Tractive setup? I have the closed cartridge extended setup on mine and ended up softening the compression/rebound even more to plush the suspension up. About 11,000 miles of off road later and I love it.
How is the RR holding up?
@AdventureTomek not a single problem. Fork seals are still doing great even.
im struggling finding a balanced clicker setting for the same setup, care to share yours?
With just the hyperpro kit, or even standard, you can adjust something else... oil level in the forks.
Next to oil there's air in the fork, the air compresses when the fork compresses and works like an extra spring, by adding more oil to the fork the airchamber is smaller and the 'airspring' increases capacity and gets stiffer. It's a well known method of tuning forks and preventing diving.
In means of setup, always setup your springs first, they're responsible for the geometry, there should be measurements (static sag / rider sag) from Yamaha...
After the geometry is right you start fiddling with the clickers for compression (low/high speed) and rebound.
It's pretty tried and tested with the T7 forks. The stock valving is poor, hence why most people eho do upgrade end up getting some kind of revalve, either via KTECH or other brand 🙂
@@BrakeMagazine I can imagine, I've ridden one and it felt like a yoyo compared to my SXF with wp conevalve / trax. A bit like those scary bouncy sticks they had years ago :)
Doing steep downhills with a lot of bumps can be scary without proper suspension.
But even with the best suspension, a custom valving can be needed to get what you want, clickers are great but don't change characteristics, in most cases they're just a bypass to let more of less oil flow through the shimstack / valve.
And my comment about setting up geometry is still valid as well for any suspension, set the sag correct and then start fiddling with the clickers. Don't change too much at once, you won't be able to figure out what caused the change.
I would be interested to find out if the forks could be replaced with larger diameter forks, for example it's quite easy to get a pair of WP AER forks out here, lots of people replace them with WP cone valve. Some EXC riders swap to WP AER as the originel EXC forks aren't great as well. They can be revalved but it'll never be a really brilliant fork.
thanks for your review, very helpful!👍
AT rider, haven't ridden the T7 yet, but this is an awesome video!
Thanks for giving it the time! 😁
@@BrakeMagazine Good stuff! 👏
Love the channel and this series. Keep them coming !
Next Monday for the final episode!
This series was great.
great video guys .... say hey to dad we missed him on this one.....
its a shame people are so snarky that you feel the need to apologize for obvious and unimportant things so theyll not flood comments with hatefulness and nitpickin..... id like to apologize for those folks theyre just dumb and dont know better your true fans totally git it keep up the great work please
Great video! I’m looking at getting either Andreani or Tractive fork cartridges and Tractive shock. If seat height is not a big issue, do you think I should go for +30 mm suspension travel on both front and rear, or keep it stock length? I ride 60% road & 40% off road Spanish rocky trails. I can’t find good list of pros and cons for having longer suspension on T7. Thanks!
I would say that unless your riding is quite extreme, high speed, I wouldn't worry about the longer suspension. It's going to raise the centre of gravity a lot and if you ride much technical terrain it'll make it a fair bit harder.
@@BrakeMagazine that’s exactly the answer I was looking for, thanks a lot!
@Brake Magazine - For the K-tech setup does it retain the same amount of settings (clickers) for each function of the fork and shock as the OE? If yes what was your baseline (and/or final settings) for the fork and shock? Thank you :)
Nice work. Shame you didn't buy a KTM 890 adventure, as there no comparisons at all between the Tractive x-treme setup vs the XPLOR PRO.
X-Treme vs Xplor Pro? That would be true for the fork. Not so much for the shock.
TLDR: KTM has an amazing chassis. Yamaha has an amazing engine. You can make each move toward the other with money.
Xplor Pro is great. Extreme is great with time and fettling.
---
This is, I think a big consideration for a lot of people but really it's gonna come down to what you ride, not the suspension.
Personally, I feel the Xplor Pro forks are incredible but they also cost twice as much. They're as good as any fork on the market and while the RRP Extreme forks are very good, I don't think they come out of the box ready to go. That's my personal 2 cents, not fact 😂
I believe the same applies to the shock. When we tested the KTM with Xplor Pro is was superb from minute one. My T7 took a lot of setting up to get it feeling close to the same level.
The real question here though, is going to come down to you and what you ride. The 890 is a better at faster riding out of the box, but the engine takes more managing in tricky terrain. The T7 is the opposite. It's very good in technical riding as you'll see in EP #004 next week but takes more fettling to work better on fast flow trails or in the desert.
Again, just my feelings on the subject
Difference is that he will arrive back home on the T7.
Was thinking about a trip to the Yukon and Alaska in my T7. No offroading but gravel roads and big ruts on the Alaska Highway. Should I fit K Tech or Rally Raid suspension for that or stay stock?
Trying to keep the bike light - fitting an Akra pipe and not fitting any engine guards.
Anyone guard really don’t add much weight that can’t be removed elsewhere. For example tail tidy and lithium battery will offset that weight, especially lowers.
The stock suspension is more than good enough to get you by. If you want something extra KTECH is great budget option.
Thanks L! Is there some weight savings with Ktech fork and shock?
No, I doubt anything noticeable
What tires would be suitable for that type of trip Lau?
Currently on the stock tires with lots of life left. Would probably switch in northern Alberta or Whitehorse
Thanks for the review!
I had the K-tech installed based on this very review. I have to say my experience is very different!
I find it to be really stif, it doesnt dive while braking, which is good, but I feel every single stone i go through even though I set the clicks at the softest. Maybe someone else has this feeling as well?
What are your actual clicker settings?
Is Brake Magazine trying to help me? Thank you for even answering!
Had it installed by profesionals here in spain. I wheigh 63kg and was recommended the 6.6N front springs and 80N rear shock spring.
It came with factory standard clicks (way too stiff) and changed it to:
FF comp 20/22 cliks open
FF rebound 20/30 clicks open
RS comp 18/20 open
Rs rebound 16/18 open
Even now it feels like the forks do not even move with the small stuff like road bumps.
Maybe it is how it’s supposed to feel.. but everyone seems to be very happy with this kit and I am not 😅
It’s not. It sounds like the springs are maybe still stiff. At 65kgs you are really light! Sometimes that can be difficult to get the spring rates right, but it may also be too much spring preload.
The one thing I would also say is that sometimes, have rebound too quick can feel horrific. Try leaving the compression out and going in on the rebound 2-3 clicks at a time.
Otherwise, you can use the KTECH site to check the spring rates. Something isn’t right for sure!
Really appreciate your help! Will try that for sure. Hopefully I can figure out the right setup for me.
Keep up the excellent videos!
Very nice video! Do you maybe know which springs (nm) you used with the ktech setup?
I am getting it done right now and I’ll be getting the 90 rear and 6.9 in the front. That seems stiff to me? I weight around the 110kg fully geared up.
Sounds about right but I don't remember sorry. I think my personal bike was an 86 (Rally Raid) rear at 102 in kit.
Is there a particular reason why you didn’t opt for the longer travel version suspension?
I rech the ground with flat feet and currently debating if i should or shoudn’t go longer travel
Interesting comparison. I went with the Ktec orvs last year and it was definitely an improvement on standard.
It really is a big step :)
great to see, I am about to get touratech progressive springs and a heavier weight oil for the front on my F750GS, to reduce the diving on breaking, hopefully this improves the bike
It really will.
Where does the Tenere 700 Extreme edition suspension stand compared to these? I’m very curious
Similar to the KTech
Hi I realise this is an old series but can you say in your opinion how the world raid setup compares with the different setups you have tested here. Your opinion would be greatly appreciated
Similar to KTECH
Comparing the rally raid and katec suspension what did they be better than the standard suspension that comes on the world raid model?
So I think the KTECH, from memory not direct comparison is similar to the World Raid in performance.
The Rally Raid is capable of being more sensitive and having better bottoming resistance. It's basically capable of everything to slightly higher level, but it also requires effort to set up. The World Raid it pretty good standard.
Good video :)
Thanks for the visit
Lovely review. I wish you guys also had a stock bike to test.
The HyperPro isn't far from stock in how it rides if that helps.
Your videos are very good and informative. I don’t have a T7 yet, but I’m seriously thinking about one. I just have to convince the wife.
Can you post a link for the k-tech rear piston and shim stack? All I'm seeing on their website is the rear spring.
store.ktechsuspension.com/shock-absorber-piston-revalve-assembly-40-0x12-0mm-adv.html?find=Yamaha_XTZ700+Tenere_2021
Hyerpro components are good for street use but not for offroad use. Linear springs with a riders' weight match are the better choice.
You also need to consider the breakaway torque of the fork and use high quality fork dust caps / oil seals and the right fork grease.
I'm looking forward to experience the difference between OEM stock components with stiffer springs vs. Öhlins catridge & shock.
BTW great Ténéré 700 series
💙💛🏁👍🏻
On road is the standard suspension good? I am trying to decide between the standard bike or the extreme bit I will use the bike mainly on road.
It’s soft but more than fine.
Nice review. Anybody fitted the öhlins option? I had that on my old roadbike. They know their stuff.
Yup, a few people have. They word on the vine is the forks are good, the shock not so much.
Love the channel and the vids, great quality and very engaging.
Why did you choose the t7 as a platform for this series instead of a ktm 890? Was it just price? Or do you dislike the low slung tank? Is it better for single trail/harder stuff?
Thanks and again love your content.
Nope. I kinda felt like it was a more interesting project. The KTM 890 is really good out of the box. If I bought one I'd probably just ride it and not really tweak it.
The Yam is the opposite. It's flawed stock but got a ton of potential 🙂
I would love to hear what your clicker settings are for the Rally Raid front forks. And the high speed / low speed and rebound on the rear shock of the rally raid
That's tricky. I will get back to you soon!
i would also love to know your settings, im struggling with mine (same setup)
Correct spring rate is critical. My K-tech kit with wrong (too hard) front springs was a nightmare, soon as i swich to a correct one (only one step softer - 6.3 instead of 6.6) it becomes a great set up.
Yup. I think that's a really T& related problem. I have had the same with the Rally Raid. Shock was too stiff, forks slightly too soft and the whole bike was a mess. Fixing those was dreamy.
I'm using the 6.6 springs and find them perfect, but I only have springs in the stock forks.
@@BrakeMagazine That't not T7 specific, wrong springs mean wrong geometry. Some bikes will become really evil at the frontend without the right geometry, steering dampers are used then to compensate but in most cases it can be solved with the right springs and sag. Correct spring + correct preload = correct geometry.
We have the same issue on ktm sxf's, a few mm off in sag drastically changes the bike in a negative way.
The K tech is the winner, it goes with the value of the bike. When did people get so spoiled, when you jump a 425lb bike it’s harsh man. That is that plain and simple. Put some protection on the bike and adjust the stock suspension after the correct rear spring for your weight is put on and just ride it. Forget all the hogshit and ride it. It’s big and fun and good
I don't disagree but it's super fun to ride!
Weight have nothing to do with being harsh on jumps. I jump my 250kg Africa twin all the time, it's never harsh on landing an rear very rarely bottoms out. Front usually bottoms easier.
Now I did revalve and front bottoms super easily. But it's better that way because it's less harsh where it's matter, on road bumps, gravel chatter etc
Fascinating video Llel, my dad an I have been trying to decide on two bikes to buy to get off to Norway an Iceland, the 890R an the Norden 901 Standard an T7 have been really interesting watching your vids. It's a shame in a way Yam an alot of the Japanese companies really don't do better suspension from the get go I'd rather that than phone connectivity an stuff.
Really undecided which of the three to get at the moment, the Reliability of the Yamaha seems to catch my attention but the suspension on the 890R although the cam an immobiliser issues are a worry from what I've read up though they've made improvements to the followers so they are wider.
I wish Yamaha would sort the exhaust hanger as well, I know there's aftermarket pipes but I prefer stock ones for my ears.
Just a few thoughts from someone who's confused as to what to buy at the mo haha!
Buy the pretty one. Honestly, I think the experience of those things are all about the same once you're riding the bike. Especially in those places you mentioned. Also, fit heated grips.
@@BrakeMagazine Thanks Llel 😊 really enjoying the channel 👍👌an yep heated everything for my dad he hates the cold lol but it's been our dream trip an adventure of a lifetime so really excited. Hopefully everything goes well with his mri prostate scan he's having at the moment an we get to do it still together, looking at the different bikes an talking about the variations has been a welcome distraction from a sudden medical thing neither of us expected.
Fingers crossed it goes well!
@@BrakeMagazine Thanks mate really appreciate that 👍
Just thought I'd add to this ended up with the T7 over the moon :)
Would you say one could fit the Ktech setup with little to no wrenching experience?
No. You need some suspension specific tools and I'd recommend some prior experience with mechanics. 🙂
Unscientific maybe, but excellent nonetheless. This channel punches way above its weight class.
Aww too kind Bob!
would be great to see this comparison on the ktm 790/890
We kinda did a similar one with the WP Pro Suspension already :)
Great work! I really need to get a better understanding of suspension and heard there’s a book called “The Suspension Bible” that’s worth the purchase. I have experience that suspension can truly transform your bike and riding. Also that Tractive is basically the best for bigger bikes
after 3 years riding T7 on all types of tracks enduro mx tracks and your every day full of big rocks tracks. you learn a lot. me and my mate run high end and just revalve and springs. one bike has full ohlins with 48mm forks and tfx rear. my bike has a two stage revalve set up and have a revalved rear shock and springs in and run a tfx rear ohlins as well. both set ups are very very good. you can push both set up very hard. ohlins have a slight edge when you are at the limits of the T7. but most riders would not find the limits off a good revalve with the air gap adjusted. or why bother spending on exspensive sus and just buy the raid suspension and put it on your T7 £1/000 and you get more travel as well . the raid suspension is very good standard. and T7 is 15kg lighter . but you will proble delete this like you have on other comments i have put on.
What are you on about? I've never deleted any of your comments or any reason too 🤣🤣
Your set ups sound great.
Llel, I would love if you could compare the RR stuff on your T7 with a stock World Raid and the 890R. My bet is 1. 890r, 2. T7 with RR, 3. WR.
I haven't ridden the new one but I think the RR is probably a smidge better. Would be really close though.
Thanks for answering my man! I tried to keep myself from buying it, but I couldn't. On its way now :D
@@JohannesDalenMC Yes man! We have to wait a little to ride it. Did you sell the T7?
Oh I meant the RR suspension. I absolutely haven't sold my T7, it's a keeper. Just bought a '23 FE350 so I can attend enduro practices.
Does anyone know what sumpguard is running the budget bike? Minute 2:56
CrossPro. It's really nice. The coverage kinda surprised me and it's not expensive. Was a very nice item.
@@BrakeMagazine I was amazed about how close they get to the shock. Will probably give it a try. Thank you!
244 for the Hyperpro springs? I got quoted €800 for my Transalp, and i live in the Netherlands (Hyperpro is Dutch).
That must be with fitment too right? That's just the price of parts. 🙂
What is the rebound/compression setup on the K-Tech bike?
Increased Compression 4 Clicks over standard. I think that was 16 click from fully out, 8 from fully in. You can probably find a better setting but on the day this felt good :)
@@BrakeMagazine Thank you for the great review! Do you know what the K-tech standard clicker settings are? I did not get any documentetion when I bought the kit.
I also have the K-tech kit. Does anyone know the the base setup for clickers or a setup that works for them? I have the K-tech kit installed, but there are no K-tech dealers where I live. I feel a bit lost with mine... It seems to lack rebound on the shock and generaly is less comfortable than the standard one for me.
I might be able to help. :)
I don't know what you have or haven't done, so I'll assume nothing. Can you elaborate on 'lack rebound' Do you meaning it is rebound quickly or slowly? This might help me.
Setup -
I think the Sag on the T7 is really important and with most suspension, so is rebound damping on the clickers.
Sag -
Make sure the rear shock is at 10% static and 30% with you sat on it. That's more important for fork performance than I can express in words on this bike.
Clickers -
I believe our KTECH T7 came with all clickers, rebound and compression in the middle of the range. On ours that was really plush. It moved loads at the start and had a 'couch like' feel. It was plush, much and slightly un-responsive. It soaked everything up. We added 4 clicks of compression front and rear and that gave some feeling of the ground back.
If you want a softer, smoother feel you can either soften the compression or try slowing the rebound. Often I found that the rebound being too fast simulates a harsh feeling. The best way to test this is to find some trail where the bike feels uncomfortable and repeat it, moving the clickers two at a time. I would start with the rebound before the compression too.
Lastly, I would suggest calling KTECH in the UK. That are really helpful on the phone. :)
@@BrakeMagazine Thanks a lot for taking your time to give such a detailed reply!
The sag settings are correct and I tried two options, close to max preload on stock shock spring and 6mm preload shims on stock fork springs and also K-tech 6.3N fork and 85N shock spring with no extra preload. With gear I weigh about 88-90kg.
When I say lack of rebound on the shock I mean too little rebound dampening, bike rebounds fast when I press/release the back of it. I have the rebound screw 3 clicks from fully closed. The thing I complain about most is the shock, it is harsh on small bumps and rocks also washboard type of things.
I'll try your suggested standard settings in the middle of the range and see how it feels.
I did the forks myself but gave the shock to a suspension shop as I have no equipment to fill it. I wonder if it is possible that they installed the piston the other way round...
Thanks again! Keep up the good work! 👍
@@VVeinbergs Hey,
Do you have the ORVS and Rear shock revalve or just springs?
@@BrakeMagazine Both: ORVS, shock piston kit, springs
How much do the the riders weigh? And what would a stock suspension do when the rider is 72kg?
A spread. Andy = 79kg | Mike 83 kg | Llel 93 KG |
Awesome series! Would’ve even been more awesome if you guys swung standard World Raid into the mix😇
It didn't exist when we filmed this. It's pretty similar to KTECH however 🙂
Talk to me about your fork stick out. Looks like you have nearly nothing sticking out of the triple - I find that it gets squirrelly around 70mph with not enough weight on the front. Thoughts?
Depends a lot on the rear sag and spring rate. We ran 10% static sag and 30% rider sag on the Rally Raid bike with the forks effectively flush.
That feels super well balanced everywhere but that's with the Rally Raid suspension. On the stock suspension I had more drop through and the spring much stiffer to get some balance and it never felt right.
I find the T7 to be very tricky with this. You really need the sag setting on the shock perfect to get it to handle well.
ktch fited t7s headlight is dangling
*dear folks, can we be 100% sure here, that the SAG has been properly and rigorously set on all these bikes, front and rear? thx*
Nope, it wasn't. We have three different weight riders and so it's not really possible as we moved outside of the correct spring ranges. However, we did our best. It's why I said the test wasn't Scientific :)
Mans got nikes on
Being only 65kg I propably don't have to worry too much about getting a suspension upgrade.
I'd say your weight has nothing to do with it. You're probably a bit light for the stock springs and the suspension performance will be a lot better still :)
Too bad there wasn't a way to do a blind test on this to prevent bias. Awesome comparison nonetheless.
For sure. I said that in the website article. It's really hard to test this stuff fairly tbh.
I suppose the big question is how good is the KTM stuff after spending that cash
T7 "after spending that cash" is still more affordable. Added bonus, the T7 will start every morning.
Is it? At the end of this project I think the T7 is about £15k.
Different is how I would describe them mostly.
@@BrakeMagazine I'm trying to ask on a scale of 1-10 suspension wise where would the 890r and the fully loaded Rally raid T700 come? Or is the reference point too far off?
I would have had a T700 btw the way-if they'd come out earlier
It’s informative and good UA-cam but I don’t understand upgrading the Yamaha’s suspension, $20k bike that needs $5k of suspension upgrades or you can buy a $23k KTM ready to go with WP 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Because we can. Not everyone wants a KTM 🙂
Typical Yamaha fitting cheap suspension to save a few bucks.
I mean, they got the bike out the door cheap 🤣
This video is useless if all of the riders don't have same weight and skills. If 1 rider rides all of them on same track it'll be more clear what they personally feel about each shocks setup 🎯
Sold my T7 in 6 months. Couldn't stand it
Why?
@@BrakeMagazine I just had to drop thousands of dollars just to get the bike decent to ride. Great off road yet, it was top heavy but for the pavement journey there you're going to have to purchase a lot of things too make it an enjoyable ride. Even after all I put into it I still didn't like it and sold it. Very expensive lesson learned.
@@Lawofhonor what did you buy instead? Just by curiosity
Drivers course 😂😂
This is a stupid test. Use railway, same rider and seismograph to estimate damping.
😋 p̲r̲o̲m̲o̲s̲m̲