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This is the perfect level of detail for 95% of motorcycle owners. Unless you are some kind of racer, want to be a suspension mechanic, or are obsessive-compulsive about knowing everything. The thing about suspension behavior is that, as a rider, there are no easy and standard ways to describe what you want changed. I took my WR250R to a suspension shop to get it lowered, and as part of the process the specialist asked me about 20 questions about how the bike behaved when I hit a hole, when the front went over a small log, etc. I told him what it did that I liked, and what I didn't like, and when I picked up the bike it was so much better behaved and more comfortable to ride that it was like a different bike. An amazingly better bike, for about $800 USD. I maintain that there is no better money you can spend on an off-pavement bike than going to a professional suspension shop and buying some time. Start with springs for rate and height, and that might be all you need, but expert advice is worth it, IMO.
Thanks for the video. Your springs explanation is very good. While I don’t own a T700 I did need to rebuild my front forks of my 650 VStrom after my Alaska and Yukon trip in June and July 2022. Pitted Crome chewed up the seals. I had to get new fork tubes and actually found a set of forks in good shape so I bought them instead. When I took them apart I found RaceTech Gold emulators and .85 kg/mm springs inside. My stock springs were.65kg/mm. The ride difference was amazing and so much smoother. I’m older and retired and about 195 without gear on. Changing the springs and valves east and changed the whole nature of the bike. I probably should now look at the rear spring as well.
Good video. Re: suspension damping, most people will have better success by making big adjustments (say, 6 clicks) first. So you start in the middle, ride it, then adjust by 6 clicks and decide whether the new setting is better or worse. If worse, go 6 clicks in the opposite direction. If better, go six clicks more. Then when you have the best 6 click position, halve it by going 3 clicks up / down from the best 6 click position. Then 2 clicks. Then one. Then do rebound. Then do the same on the other end of the bike. And if you find that full compression damping is your best setting, your spring is too light.
I kind of agree with you but would go one stage further. When I get a new bike (or new suspension components) after setting preload I set the damping at minimum front and back and go for a ride. Then set everything at maximum damping and do the same ride. You get a very quick assessment of what range of damping is available to you. Some bikes it might be quite a range, others might be quite limited. You can probably choose the damping settings to 90% of where you want to be pretty much straight away from those two ten minute rides. That final 10% can be tweaked with the odd click here and there over the next week or two if needed.
Great advice, my wife rides quite well and she weighs approx 115 lbs. she has to respring every bikes she gets. It can be a pain in the rear to get the springs sometimes. Once it’s done, the bike is tuned in to her style and it’s wonderful. I’m surprised every bike manufacture doesn’t offer after market components for suspension. A lot of money to be made, parts and labor.
Great video and great advice. Your assessment and resolution fit perfectly on what I did read so far about the suspension weakness of the T7. So, it’s a quite easy and straightforward exercise to get it fixed. Well done!
I'm looking at getting a T7 and am glad to hear that Yamaha has the bike set up from the factory for a 150# rider.. That's what I weigh and I'm not planning on adding 100#s of (crap) acssories to my bike ;)
Big Rock Moto is one of my favourite channels. Ian is a brilliant host and it was a shame he was not at the ABR Festival in U.K. as a speaker. Adam Rieman was there and some Dakar riders, but there was a big gap in not having Ian.
Great video, still pisses me off spending so much on a bike and having to modify it to get good suspension. its like if theyre designed to fail as soon as you add a little weight or the bike handles like crap, all along ,you hate the bike and its only a few components that they cheep out on! the insane amount of videos on modifying suspension says a lot !
I have found by replacing the stock oil in the fork tubes with a step or two heavier would improve the ride on a Honda XR400R. The bike was set-up street legal except for the tires. Used mainly on dirt and very limited pavement.
This really helps me understand my motorcycle suspension. My stock Harley ElectraGlide has adjustable air bladders built into the front forks as well as the rear shocks for damping control, and this has always worked well for me and my passenger in 100k miles of touring. Has this approach ever been used for adventure bikes? I suspect I'll need to change springs in my new 2022 KLR650, but haven't ridden it enough to know.... Thanks, Ian, for the excellent Suspension 101 video. Wow!
The rear has arising rate linkage which means it progressively stiffens as the travel is used up. So at 200 pounds mine was constantly in the stiffer part of the stroke and would move the rear tyre around in a turn. I uprated the spring which kept the rear up in the stroke and allowed the rising rate to function as it should.
Very good info. Thank you! I just got my T7 in August and have changed very little to the bike so far. I’ve go 1300 miles on it so far and it rides great. I have wanted to learn more about the spring rates and the overall adjustment and this video has really got me thinking. Thank you so much! Keep up the great videos! 👍🙌🤘🏍
Great video!! Thanks for the explanations. 😁 Are there any data tables available somewhere showing the spring rates needed for various loads on the bike?
It’s worth noting that when you respring, you typically need to revalve to match the new spring rates. If you are going to respring, you should revalve at the same time. Use a reputable suspension supplier and be honest about how you intend to ride and your rider weight (including gear). They can typically get you very close on the 1st try. I like to find a supplier who has experience with your particular model.
Great video! However, I disagree with you on the pre-load. The purpose of pre-load is to ensure that your suspension is working in the correct range. Similarly to bottoming out on the bottom, the springs can bottom out on the top too. Less preload and the bike suspension works more around the top, more preload and it works around the bottom. For example if you are going high speed, and there is a pothole, your suspension will need to extend from the default position. If you have too little preload, it will bottom out on the outward stroke here. Hence, it is not just for extra weight or passengers. I do think if you ride a lot, it is probably worth visiting a suspension specialist. Generally those cost under 200$, yet provide more benefit than a new exhaust system nearly 5x the price! I definitely agree that aftermarket suspension in general is kind of a waste. Often its not the stock suspension lacking performance, but it just not being adjusted properly. On the experimentation part with damping, I always take a little notebook with me and note down all the changes and observations. Then you can always go back to a setting you had before which you liked or to compare it with a vastly different setting without getting confused. Although usually, it is fairly obvious when you find something you like. For how my bike is setup now, one click extra damping makes it feel too rough and shaky, whilst one click less damping makes it feel under-damped and 'floaty' without much feel.
Correct, I was trying to make the point that the preload adjuster should be near zero when riding in your most lightly loaded configuration so you have room to crank it up for extra weight to re-establish proper sag. You're 100% right that you need a certain amount of sag so that you don't top out. However that can be achieved with little preload on the adjuster. There still might be preload on the spring on the shock with the adjuster set at zero
Thanks for the clear message and the details. I already got a 95 Nm rear shock installed but with my riding weight of 100 kg I cannot realize a 10% static SAG. There is almost 0% SAG. I'm adding 15-20 kg of extra gear max. What is your recommendation about the rear shock? 90 Nm or 85 Nm? I'm a bit uncertain if the reduction from 95 Nm to 90 Nm will make a big difference. Safe rides from Germany 💙💛🏁🤛🏼
Ich hab jetzt die 85er Feder verbaut (ca 93kg fahrfertig) + die sturzbügel ... wohl auch 100kg. Hab aber heute mal mit Touratech München (Markus) gesprochen. Der hat mir für vorne progressive Federn (+ gabelservice nach meinen 40k Kilometern) und hinten das Touratech Extreme Federbein empfohlen. Werd das jetzt einbauen und kann dann berichten :))
@@Reiwadatschi Ich habe nach einem Beratungsgespräch mit Thomas von Off-The-Road in Köln mir heute die 85 Nm Feder geholt und bin schon sehr gespannt. Die Feder hoffentlich bald auch 😉
Your explanations and advice are good! Do you have the time for a video on choosing progressive spring rates (front and rear) and choosing fork oil weight, and then doing it oneself? If find that DIY projects are much more satisfying than just opening one's wallet and shoveling cash.
Remember that all suspension has interference between compression & rebound, some drastically so, some less so. For example, you adjust the rebound but it makes a change in the compression as well and vice-versa!
I own a T7. I have done a resping front and rear. I was not fully happy with it and have since upgraded the entire suspension to Rally Raid Forks and Rally Raid adventure rear shock. Yes the stock components are decent with a respring. However, the OEM fork valves on the T7 are only 20mm. Tracktive / Rally-Raid open cartridge forks for the T7 are 35mm that is a HUGE difference. That's 270% more surface area for compression and rebound damping. I wish you could ride my T7 and compare how much better it is than just a respring.
What spring rate and oil weight did you use? Only problem with the T7 is the compression damping adjustment doesn’t make much difference until nearly all the way in, so stiffer springs will need damping to control it.
Great video. I don't have one but I like to know flaws of bikes. I know on my wr250r pretty much every rear shock was aerated from the factory and just rebuilding and refilling it made a huge difference, does this problem exist on the t7?
Excellent summary! Did you have any issues with that spring compressor from a safety or strength perspective? At least one of the reviews didn't think it was strong enough to be used safely. Not many bike mechanics near where I live...
Buying a used bike you get so many changes done to them that I don't think manufacturers should or would care about that. Their business is the initial sale.
A question based on your video and statement that the rear linkage is progressive. I have 30mm lowering links and pulled up the fork tubes to keep the same fork angle ( I measured it with a gauge). By my thinking it is now the same geometry, just less ground clearance by 1 1/2". Do you think that is correct or has lowering it affected the handling: straight ahead, leaned over, suspension stroke. I ask because I find the front deflects a lot in gravel, to the point of wanting a stearing stabilizer. Seems fine on the road but off- road it is a bit unsettling. Also I just added the MotoZ Tractionator Dualventure front and I get momentary wobbles out of the front while riding high speed on the asphalt. I am convinced now after watching your video that my stock springs are causing a lot of my handling issues and am going after those now. I have recognized from the beginning the fronts were too soft and dive under breaking was excessive but when new, my rear spring was very stiff and would not sag at all. Now at 6,000 miles it is quite soft and I, as you mentioned, am cranking up the preload just to ride it with me and a Mosko Moto Reckless 10 set up
Hello . Great videos!! I bought a T7 and on the road i feel a lot of discomtort in my waist and back because i feel that it does not absorb the irregularities on the steet. I feel like any irregularity hits hard. I como from XR650l and Dr5650 and i feel like float compared to the T7. I don’t know if they are like that or if the rear suspencion has problems
I feel the same. Like there is no suspension when rolling on small bumps. Its very uncomfy, even worst then my V Strom 650. In the terrain its much better. Probbably will contact some suspension tuner. Dont want spend at least thousand dollars for Ohlins with no warranty to improve the comfort.
Did you already try to re-spring it to your weight? What is your weight? Mine is like 110 kg without gear and I have exactly the same problem with my T7, it's too hard, too harsh and uncomfortable on road.
My weight is 85kg . I don’t now if re spring solve the problem. I have seen in other videos that the problem is the shock. Yamaha thought of running it standing up in the trails.
FYI rear suspension on these things is absolute garbage I know people have sold them just because of it. Hass to be dealt with. You really need to get a aftermarket rear suspension.
Have about 300 miles on my tenere Have you felt the need for a steering stabilizer? Anything over 85mph and im fighting the bars from wobbling on the highway with the California rain grooves.
Great explanation - thanks. As the height and high CoG was an issue for my short legs on the T7, I do have OEM 20mm lowering links. I’ve heard that I should also drop the from of the bike by lifting the front shocks by 10-15mm also to balance the geometry. I see Rally Raid also have 40mm lowering links, to drop the height a bit more. I assume the front should therefore also increase beyond the 10-15mm if swapping the links? At over 200lbs I do need to replace the rear shock spring to a 95nm, however my concern is that this will raise the height of the bike again. Any suggestions? I’m going to take the bike wearing my usual gear and luggage to a local suspension place also. Thanks again.
yes you should drop the forks but be careful there is a limit. you need a .85 spring at that weight. unfortunately it will raise the rear a little bit, yes
@@BigRockMoto How much do you think it will raise the seat height by using a Rally Raid 85 spring ? I could probably get away with an increase of 1cm, but anything more and I'm maxing out with my inside leg size, I don't want to start lowering the bike.
I know you also mountain bike, and probably have air spring type fork/shock on your Mtb. Very few mountain bikes nowadays use coil springs. Air shocks eliminate these spring rate problems as any rider can set the sag for their weight- why don’t motorcycle manufacturers simply ditch springs and go air spring suspension instead? There’s really no price differential either between mass market mtb suspension, air or coil spring, so price can’t be the issue…..?
I guess it has something to do with the 10-20 times higher weight, way higher speed and the resulting increased energy and heat that goes into the suspension of a motorcycle. I know that there is cars with air ride suspension, but these are usually not performance cars. That means size and weight of the suspension system is not that important and the suspension will not have to work as hard as in a performance car.
I did sell it but not for that reason. I mentioned in my video I have to buy and sell bikes to make new content. Otherwise I would have kept it. This video was filmed a few weeks ago. I don't post my videos right after folming.
I am 6'1 in tall and about 200 lb without gear on. I probably ride similar to you and I like to get after it. I do not want to spend thousands of dollars. I do intend changing the springs. What spring rates would you recommend front and rear?
4:26 The way you said that made it seem like it’s not good enough for Americans because Americans are fat 😂dude with my height if I was 150 pounds I would literally be anorexic i’m the perfect weight for my height and still too heavy for that shit
Support Big Rock Moto! Shop at Revzilla and Rocky Mountain ATV/MC using my links!
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This is the perfect level of detail for 95% of motorcycle owners. Unless you are some kind of racer, want to be a suspension mechanic, or are obsessive-compulsive about knowing everything.
The thing about suspension behavior is that, as a rider, there are no easy and standard ways to describe what you want changed. I took my WR250R to a suspension shop to get it lowered, and as part of the process the specialist asked me about 20 questions about how the bike behaved when I hit a hole, when the front went over a small log, etc. I told him what it did that I liked, and what I didn't like, and when I picked up the bike it was so much better behaved and more comfortable to ride that it was like a different bike. An amazingly better bike, for about $800 USD. I maintain that there is no better money you can spend on an off-pavement bike than going to a professional suspension shop and buying some time. Start with springs for rate and height, and that might be all you need, but expert advice is worth it, IMO.
Well said!
Thanks for the video. Your springs explanation is very good. While I don’t own a T700 I did need to rebuild my front forks of my 650 VStrom after my Alaska and Yukon trip in June and July 2022. Pitted Crome chewed up the seals. I had to get new fork tubes and actually found a set of forks in good shape so I bought them instead. When I took them apart I found RaceTech Gold emulators and .85 kg/mm springs inside. My stock springs were.65kg/mm. The ride difference was amazing and so much smoother. I’m older and retired and about 195 without gear on. Changing the springs and valves east and changed the whole nature of the bike. I probably should now look at the rear spring as well.
I'm a 265lb 6'5" rider looking at Tenere 700.. Appreciate every bit of effort in this video! A true fact rap! Keep up the great work!
Good video. Re: suspension damping, most people will have better success by making big adjustments (say, 6 clicks) first. So you start in the middle, ride it, then adjust by 6 clicks and decide whether the new setting is better or worse. If worse, go 6 clicks in the opposite direction. If better, go six clicks more. Then when you have the best 6 click position, halve it by going 3 clicks up / down from the best 6 click position. Then 2 clicks. Then one. Then do rebound. Then do the same on the other end of the bike. And if you find that full compression damping is your best setting, your spring is too light.
hmmm I might try that one. thanks!
I kind of agree with you but would go one stage further. When I get a new bike (or new suspension components) after setting preload I set the damping at minimum front and back and go for a ride. Then set everything at maximum damping and do the same ride. You get a very quick assessment of what range of damping is available to you. Some bikes it might be quite a range, others might be quite limited. You can probably choose the damping settings to 90% of where you want to be pretty much straight away from those two ten minute rides. That final 10% can be tweaked with the odd click here and there over the next week or two if needed.
It is nice from a personal perspective to have technical information from others than Fortnine. Nice presentation!
I also find it easier to understand instead of all the technical speak Fortnine do.
Great advice, my wife rides quite well and she weighs approx 115 lbs. she has to respring every bikes she gets. It can be a pain in the rear to get the springs sometimes. Once it’s done, the bike is tuned in to her style and it’s wonderful. I’m surprised every bike manufacture doesn’t offer after market components for suspension. A lot of money to be made, parts and labor.
Again technically very well explained with a large knowledge. For me a big plus these videos from you .... keep it up! 😊👍Best regards Michael
Great video and great advice. Your assessment and resolution fit perfectly on what I did read so far about the suspension weakness of the T7. So, it’s a quite easy and straightforward exercise to get it fixed. Well done!
Thanks!
Thank you for your hard work and these educational videos! ❤
I'm looking at getting a T7 and am glad to hear that Yamaha has the bike set up from the factory for a 150# rider.. That's what I weigh and I'm not planning on adding 100#s of (crap) acssories to my bike ;)
Big Rock Moto is one of my favourite channels. Ian is a brilliant host and it was a shame he was not at the ABR Festival in U.K. as a speaker. Adam Rieman was there and some Dakar riders, but there was a big gap in not having Ian.
Just want to echo the positive comments below. Appreciate your efforts.
thanks!
Great video, still pisses me off spending so much on a bike and having to modify it to get good suspension. its like if theyre designed to fail as soon as you add a little weight or the bike handles like crap, all along ,you hate the bike and its only a few components that they cheep out on! the insane amount of videos on modifying suspension says a lot !
Good overview. For more I'd recommend grabbing a copy of Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible.
100% - it is excellent
I have found by replacing the stock oil in the fork tubes with a step or two heavier would improve the ride on a Honda XR400R. The bike was set-up street legal except for the tires. Used mainly on dirt and very limited pavement.
This really helps me understand my motorcycle suspension. My stock Harley ElectraGlide has adjustable air bladders built into the front forks as well as the rear shocks for damping control, and this has always worked well for me and my passenger in 100k miles of touring. Has this approach ever been used for adventure bikes? I suspect I'll need to change springs in my new 2022 KLR650, but haven't ridden it enough to know.... Thanks, Ian, for the excellent Suspension 101 video. Wow!
thanks!
Best explanations I’ve seen. THANK YOU 🙏!!!!!
You're very welcome!
The rear has arising rate linkage which means it progressively stiffens as the travel is used up. So at 200 pounds mine was constantly in the stiffer part of the stroke and would move the rear tyre around in a turn. I uprated the spring which kept the rear up in the stroke and allowed the rising rate to function as it should.
correct
great video explaining the operation of the suspension and the terms for spring rate ,comp.dampenining and rebound
Thanks 👍
Clear and to the point .. Informative. 👍
Very interesting video Ian!
Suspension is really hard to understand. I can understand the basics, but it stops there, no matter how much I read.. 😅
Great video!
Did Yamaha improve the springs on the T7 World raid? I would like to get your insights on that. Thank you
What a great presentation I love your channel
thank you!
Very good info. Thank you! I just got my T7 in August and have changed very little to the bike so far. I’ve go 1300 miles on it so far and it rides great. I have wanted to learn more about the spring rates and the overall adjustment and this video has really got me thinking. Thank you so much! Keep up the great videos! 👍🙌🤘🏍
Thanks!
Great video!! Thanks for the explanations. 😁
Are there any data tables available somewhere showing the spring rates needed for various loads on the bike?
Awesome information. Love your channel !
thanks!
I always trust you Sir.
Great info! Thank you
It’s worth noting that when you respring, you typically need to revalve to match the new spring rates. If you are going to respring, you should revalve at the same time. Use a reputable suspension supplier and be honest about how you intend to ride and your rider weight (including gear). They can typically get you very close on the 1st try. I like to find a supplier who has experience with your particular model.
Valving on T7's suspensions are enough for higher spring rates.
Very helpful information. Thanks.
thanks!
Great video, thanks a lot.
Thanks à lot ! Even for a french Guy 😅. What is your dry Weight ? And which spring rate did you choose ?
Do you recommend progressive springs? Or would a stiffer linear spring be better?
Great video! However, I disagree with you on the pre-load. The purpose of pre-load is to ensure that your suspension is working in the correct range. Similarly to bottoming out on the bottom, the springs can bottom out on the top too. Less preload and the bike suspension works more around the top, more preload and it works around the bottom. For example if you are going high speed, and there is a pothole, your suspension will need to extend from the default position. If you have too little preload, it will bottom out on the outward stroke here.
Hence, it is not just for extra weight or passengers.
I do think if you ride a lot, it is probably worth visiting a suspension specialist. Generally those cost under 200$, yet provide more benefit than a new exhaust system nearly 5x the price! I definitely agree that aftermarket suspension in general is kind of a waste. Often its not the stock suspension lacking performance, but it just not being adjusted properly.
On the experimentation part with damping, I always take a little notebook with me and note down all the changes and observations. Then you can always go back to a setting you had before which you liked or to compare it with a vastly different setting without getting confused. Although usually, it is fairly obvious when you find something you like. For how my bike is setup now, one click extra damping makes it feel too rough and shaky, whilst one click less damping makes it feel under-damped and 'floaty' without much feel.
Correct, I was trying to make the point that the preload adjuster should be near zero when riding in your most lightly loaded configuration so you have room to crank it up for extra weight to re-establish proper sag. You're 100% right that you need a certain amount of sag so that you don't top out. However that can be achieved with little preload on the adjuster. There still might be preload on the spring on the shock with the adjuster set at zero
Thanks for the clear message and the details. I already got a 95 Nm rear shock installed but with my riding weight of 100 kg I cannot realize a 10% static SAG. There is almost 0% SAG.
I'm adding 15-20 kg of extra gear max. What is your recommendation about the rear shock? 90 Nm or 85 Nm? I'm a bit uncertain if the reduction from 95 Nm to 90 Nm will make a big difference.
Safe rides from Germany 💙💛🏁🤛🏼
Ich hab jetzt die 85er Feder verbaut (ca 93kg fahrfertig) + die sturzbügel ... wohl auch 100kg. Hab aber heute mal mit Touratech München (Markus) gesprochen. Der hat mir für vorne progressive Federn (+ gabelservice nach meinen 40k Kilometern) und hinten das Touratech Extreme Federbein empfohlen. Werd das jetzt einbauen und kann dann berichten :))
@@Reiwadatschi Ich habe nach einem Beratungsgespräch mit Thomas von Off-The-Road in Köln mir heute die 85 Nm Feder geholt und bin schon sehr gespannt. Die Feder hoffentlich bald auch 😉
Your explanations and advice are good! Do you have the time for a video on
choosing progressive spring rates (front and rear) and choosing fork oil weight,
and then doing it oneself? If find that DIY projects are much more satisfying
than just opening one's wallet and shoveling cash.
Great suggestion!
PS: go with regular not progressive springs
thank you!
Remember that all suspension has interference between compression & rebound, some drastically so, some less so. For example, you adjust the rebound but it makes a change in the compression as well and vice-versa!
the japanese underspring their bikes because their test riders are 140lbs. meanwhile in america the average rider is 200lb
Ty
Thank you
I own a T7. I have done a resping front and rear. I was not fully happy with it and have since upgraded the entire suspension to Rally Raid Forks and Rally Raid adventure rear shock. Yes the stock components are decent with a respring. However, the OEM fork valves on the T7 are only 20mm. Tracktive / Rally-Raid open cartridge forks for the T7 are 35mm that is a HUGE difference. That's 270% more surface area for compression and rebound damping. I wish you could ride my T7 and compare how much better it is than just a respring.
awesome. sounds great
Hi. How feel now in small imperfection on road. My is very umcomfy on road
how do you find the transitio nvisor on the Klim? can it replace sunglasses or a dropdown sunvisor?
Great video, which front turn signals are on your T7? Haven't had much luck finding the proper aftermarket ones. Thanks!
got them on amazon, make sure to get three wire signals
What spring rate and oil weight did you use?
Only problem with the T7 is the compression damping adjustment doesn’t make much difference until nearly all the way in, so stiffer springs will need damping to control it.
Exactly, a stiffer spring rate might totally overwhelm any stock damping arrangement.
@@terenceokeeffesmotorcyclestuff I’m getting the K Tech piston/shim kits fitted to forks and shock too, so should fix that.
My T7 has k-tech valve and springs kit. Waiting for snow to melt.
Great video. I don't have one but I like to know flaws of bikes. I know on my wr250r pretty much every rear shock was aerated from the factory and just rebuilding and refilling it made a huge difference, does this problem exist on the t7?
Excellent summary! Did you have any issues with that spring compressor from a safety or strength perspective? At least one of the reviews didn't think it was strong enough to be used safely. Not many bike mechanics near where I live...
I've used it three times now, no issues with mine
If ford can configure a truck 13 different ways Yamaha should offer 3 spring offers
They could but then buying used could be awkward. Have to make sure the one you're buying has the correct springs you want.
Buying a used bike you get so many changes done to them that I don't think manufacturers should or would care about that. Their business is the initial sale.
Is that good enough for me if I'm 75kg weight?
I am 6’4” 260lbs. What spring rate should I use for the front?
A question based on your video and statement that the rear linkage is progressive.
I have 30mm lowering links and pulled up the fork tubes to keep the same fork angle ( I measured it with a gauge). By my thinking it is now the same geometry, just less ground clearance by 1 1/2". Do you think that is correct or has lowering it affected the handling: straight ahead, leaned over, suspension stroke. I ask because I find the front deflects a lot in gravel, to the point of wanting a stearing stabilizer. Seems fine on the road but off- road it is a bit unsettling. Also I just added the MotoZ Tractionator Dualventure front and I get momentary wobbles out of the front while riding high speed on the asphalt.
I am convinced now after watching your video that my stock springs are causing a lot of my handling issues and am going after those now. I have recognized from the beginning the fronts were too soft and dive under breaking was excessive but when new, my rear spring was very stiff and would not sag at all. Now at 6,000 miles it is quite soft and I, as you mentioned, am cranking up the preload just to ride it with me and a Mosko Moto Reckless 10 set up
I guess I'm very fortunate that I always seem to blow the fork seals giving me a great excuse to change the springs.
me too
Hey Ian - what are the lights I see on the front of your Tenere? I like the idea of small lights for my 701 but how effective are they?
check description
awesome
Hello . Great videos!! I bought a T7 and on the road i feel a lot of discomtort in my waist and back because i feel that it does not absorb the irregularities on the steet. I feel like any irregularity hits hard. I como from XR650l and Dr5650 and i feel like float compared to the T7. I don’t know if they are like that or if the rear suspencion has problems
I feel the same. Like there is no suspension when rolling on small bumps. Its very uncomfy, even worst then my V Strom 650. In the terrain its much better. Probbably will contact some suspension tuner. Dont want spend at least thousand dollars for Ohlins with no warranty to improve the comfort.
Did you already try to re-spring it to your weight? What is your weight? Mine is like 110 kg without gear and I have exactly the same problem with my T7, it's too hard, too harsh and uncomfortable on road.
My weight is 85kg . I don’t now if re spring solve the problem. I have seen in other videos that the problem is the shock. Yamaha thought of running it standing up in the trails.
FYI rear suspension on these things is absolute garbage I know people have sold them just because of it. Hass to be dealt with. You really need to get a aftermarket rear suspension.
does rally edition have different springs?
Don't think so.
No, Rally Edition has same springs as "normal" T7.
Have about 300 miles on my tenere Have you felt the need for a steering stabilizer? Anything over 85mph and im fighting the bars from wobbling on the highway with the California rain grooves.
Did you ever set your rider sag with preload? You might be sitting too high on the rear and shortening your trail too much.
tires, and suspension settings
@@BigRockMoto I have also noticed I am only getting about 30mpg. Any idea why that is?
Can't unsee Hopper from a Bug's Life when I look at a Teneré 700. Just me?
Great explanation - thanks. As the height and high CoG was an issue for my short legs on the T7, I do have OEM 20mm lowering links. I’ve heard that I should also drop the from of the bike by lifting the front shocks by 10-15mm also to balance the geometry. I see Rally Raid also have 40mm lowering links, to drop the height a bit more. I assume the front should therefore also increase beyond the 10-15mm if swapping the links? At over 200lbs I do need to replace the rear shock spring to a 95nm, however my concern is that this will raise the height of the bike again. Any suggestions?
I’m going to take the bike wearing my usual gear and luggage to a local suspension place also. Thanks again.
yes you should drop the forks but be careful there is a limit. you need a .85 spring at that weight. unfortunately it will raise the rear a little bit, yes
@@BigRockMoto How much do you think it will raise the seat height by using a Rally Raid 85 spring ? I could probably get away with an increase of 1cm, but anything more and I'm maxing out with my inside leg size, I don't want to start lowering the bike.
I know you also mountain bike, and probably have air spring type fork/shock on your Mtb. Very few mountain bikes nowadays use coil springs. Air shocks eliminate these spring rate problems as any rider can set the sag for their weight- why don’t motorcycle manufacturers simply ditch springs and go air spring suspension instead? There’s really no price differential either between mass market mtb suspension, air or coil spring, so price can’t be the issue…..?
good question
I guess it has something to do with the 10-20 times higher weight, way higher speed and the resulting increased energy and heat that goes into the suspension of a motorcycle.
I know that there is cars with air ride suspension, but these are usually not performance cars. That means size and weight of the suspension system is not that important and the suspension will not have to work as hard as in a performance car.
I thought about few weeks ago you were getting rid of the T7 because it was to top heavy???
I did sell it but not for that reason. I mentioned in my video I have to buy and sell bikes to make new content. Otherwise I would have kept it. This video was filmed a few weeks ago. I don't post my videos right after folming.
@@BigRockMoto Ok, then what are your Top Recommendations for a middle weight Adventure bike that is reliable etc.??? Thanks
I am 6'1 in tall and about 200 lb without gear on. I probably ride similar to you and I like to get after it. I do not want to spend thousands of dollars. I do intend changing the springs. What spring rates would you recommend front and rear?
Rear 8.5, Front .65
@@BigRockMoto 👍😜
Where did you purchase your springs?
I will try to continue buying my products through your links.
What springs did you purchase? What brand?
I'm baffled as to why the Japanese don't spring their bikes for regional markets
good question
4:26 The way you said that made it seem like it’s not good enough for Americans because Americans are fat 😂dude with my height if I was 150 pounds I would literally be anorexic i’m the perfect weight for my height and still too heavy for that shit
i dont think there are that many 200lb japanese people
The reality is 99% of the poser Adv consumers will never know the difference in suspension…
Rear shock is total garbage on this bike