How To Clean A Muzzle Brake
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2020
- WARNING: READ this disclaimer. How to clean a muzzle brake - it's not something we normally think about, but is just as important as cleaning your barrel. A dirty muzzle brake can definitely cause accuracy issues and shift impacts. There are many ways to accomplish this task, this is just my version of it. Enjoy. RE-READ THAT LAST SENTENCE! Pretty sad I have to come back and edit this because of a few nitpicky jokers that care WAY too much about voiding a factory warranty due to a small amount of discoloration. The methods suggested in this video may cause some discoloration to the finish of your muzzle brake. Just don't soak your brake, in what amounts to acid, for long periods of time. Start with 20 minutes and then use soap and water to clean it off. If no damage, then repeat. It works very well and after years of cleaning this way, my brakes show minor discoloration which could just be from scrubbing.
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#competition #hunting #muzzlebrake
Apparently Lemishine can remove nitride coatings or coloring. Fair warning. It did not remove the coating/coloring on mine. I personally wouldn't care either way. Just wanted to make that clear. Adding this part...the discoloration that some people are throwing a tantrum about can be buffed out using windex. It neutralizes the acid in the lemishine. I've never had this discoloration happen and I'm told, if it does, it's completely reversible. Also, Area419 is the only brake manufacturer that I could find with any warnings about cleaning products on their website. APA literally has a similar video to mine, and they recommend the Lemishine as well. 🤔
it doesnt remove nitride coatings, nitride isnt a coating but a hardening process of the outer layer of the steel, it attacks/removes the colour the nitride process applies to the surface. you can remove the colour the nitride process applies to the material and the hardened, smoother and corrosion resistant outer layer remains. using products that strip the colour from nitrided parts wont affect the product in any way just possibly and eventually strip it back to the steels original colour.
@@thestacche6898 ok thanks
Wish I read this before I dipped my brake in Lemi 🤦♂️
Lemishine is not a “soap,” its citric acid, no detergents in it as far as
I know.
@@DavK637 remember anything that gets posted on the Internet should be considered to possibly be bad information! There are many ways to fully clean your muzzle break that work far better and don't cause any problems. I recommend wipe out bore cleaner! It's designed for it and gets the job all the way done which is extremely important for accuracy
I have used CLR for this. Works extremely well. Additionally, I am meticulous about my crown, which is why I can not shoot brake-mounted suppressors or permanent brakes.. I scrub the crown with a tight nylon brush. Super-sonic wave consistency is a must! Thanks for the vid!
Thanks Marc.
CLR voids the warranty too.
@@jeffsikula2920 and apparently can turn it pink
Lemi-Shine works great with steel media in brass cleaning too.
I have the same Area 419 muzzlebreak and noticed the other day it needs a cleaning. Was pondering what to use - thanks for the great video!
Thanks.
Make sure to read the pinned comment at the top.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork I did. Thanks
I use Accu-Washers for a permanent bond on my builds so there is no gap between the brake and the muzzle. I don't want to have to remove my muzzle brake for cleaning only to install a new Accu-Washer. They're more expensive than crush washers and more effective. After every range tripI also use an Otis system cleaning cable and patch with solvent that cleans the bore and brake as well. I will probably use a nylon brush and pipe cleaner to pay more attention to the brake in the future. Good video.
Lemi-shine=citric acid.
One can put your part/parts and solution in a Ziploc bag and put it in a ultrasonic cleaner, also.
My first brake was a Roedale precision and I never cleaned it. The cleaning solution coming out the end of the barrel on clean day was all the cleaning it ever got for the 8k rounds I put through the factory barrel.
Now I have an area 419 hell fire match on my first precision barrel. Now I know better. The brake gets cleaned now.
Call me Crazy! I've let my break soak in CLR..It did a good job of breaking down a lot of the build up. Of course using small tooth brushes/Q-tips etc to finish it off..
you are normal, in a crazy kinda way. ;)
Bore scrub or Brake Cleaner. Always be sure to lightly oil after cleaning especially the threads 👌
Thanks
I spray mine full of wipe out when I use wipe out to clean the barrel. It gets it to brand new everytime and requires zero scrubbing
Maybe some pipe cleaners for the ports?
Awesome vid man, had no idea a dirty break would affect accuracy.
good thoughts. Thanks for watching..
CLR!!! Use the Captain Cortina method. That way when it ruins the muzzle brake we can blame him for it. He won't mind. :) I would've never guessed LemiShine for this, but Ima give it a try! Thank you.
I tried lemishine in an ultrasonic cleaner and I couldn’t believe how well it worked… zero scrubbing… rinse and go.
I’d use the same method I clean my brass with. In the sonic cleaner with warm water, with a mix of Citric Acid, dishwashing concentrate and lemon juice. Probably dry it properly in the oven, then lubing the threads (very lightly) before putting it back on the rifle. That should work, shouldn’t it?
Yep.
Apparently the citric acid has been known to discolor the metal finish. I’ve personally never experienced that, but I don’t leave mine to soak in it. 🤷🏻♂️
What about cleaning for a muzzle device that is pinned and welded (non removable)?
You get nothing.
5 gallon bucket 👍
Great video, I’ve never cleaned mine.
Thanks.
Be aware that it “may” discolor your brake. That’s what some people say, but I’ve never experienced that.
Thanks for this; good information. I am like you were, and never knew about cleaning the muzzle brake. Now my brake has very large deposits and they are very hard. Do you think Lemi Shine will work on these? I will try it regardless. I hope it works otherwise, I may end up buying a new one. ☹ Thank you.
It works. Just be careful not to soak for more than 20 minutes at a time or it could ruin the coating on your brake…if you care about that. Some people do. I don’t.
Try a sonic cleaner
Eric used CLR on his EC tuner and works well! His tuner is SS so... Just let you know. By the way, thanks for sharing!
Thought about that after the Post, all of his stuff is stainless steel you probably don’t want to use CLR on a coded item
@@silverbeast3637 Agreed! Like I mentioned "SS" as above I meant stainless steel... I want my stuff sooooo clean but... I am nervous crack!
Has anyone tried carburettor
cleaner to clean muzzle brakes? I haven’t used it , but I think it might work . It certainly wouldn’t hurt the steel .
@@conservativesniperhunter7439 yes, I use Berryman Chem-Dip carb and parts cleaner in the one gallon size. It works great. I don’t know if it is better or worse than acid based cleaners like Lemi-Shine or CLR. I had it in hand so I tried it and it works.
@@mln19631 Thanks for the tip , I’ll try to find me some to try it . Cheers 🍻
Hey what are your thoughts on mineral spirts I just soak it for 20 minutes then brush clean
By the way great video
Thanks for watching. I’m personally good with anything that works and doesn’t negatively affect accuracy. 👍
What about an ultrasonic cleaner? A friend of mine has one and uses it to clean gun parts.
I've heard that works fairly well. Never tried it.
I have been doing the Ultrasonic on just about everything at this point, its nice but not convinced that its any better than just scrubbing it down as shown in the video! Thanks for the pro tip on man, good video as usual!
@@ssamuelt79 thanks!
I use ultrasonic on everything from my muzzle brake to my brass. Inuse dawn with ajax for my muzzle brake and one shot for brass
Wait what? After 300-500 rounds? Am I not supposed to clean the rifle after every time I shoot?
i would worry about oxidization after using water. drying really isnt enough, particularly on threads. just a thought.
Thanks Dale.
Have you tried CLR? Works great on carbon.
Yes I have. I agree.
Aahh lemi-shine, is there nothing you can't do. Lol I also use that to clean my brass. It comes out sparkling with that and a little dawn dish soap
Lemi Shine is ascorbic acid, not detergent. It enhances detergent by dissolving hard water minerals and scale. It's not a strong acid and shouldn't be too destructive to the steel, but once rinsed and dried, I would be sure to apply oil and allow it to soak into the pores of the steel.
Thanks
Soak mine overnight in boretech. Buy a bottle of Lucas fuel treatment then cut the top off of it after you pour it in your fuel tank. Brake just fits in inside it.
Good tip.
1 part hydrogen peroxide 1 part white vinegar works well. Soak for 24-48* hours. Carbon melts off. This is referred to as “the dip” this is an old school super solvent. It will also remove lead deposits but... if doing that the liquid byproduct is toxic (lead) do not get on your skin.
Or white vinager in ultra sonic cleaner works well also.
Thanks Luke.
Do not use the dip on anything but stainless. It’s acid and an oxidizer. It literally corrodes the junk off.
I wouldn’t try it on anything but stainless suppressor baffles for a rimfire can. Even then you’re stuck with a jar of lead based poison that is easily absorbed through your skin.
I’m sure that it would clean a brake pretty good, but it might eat it.
I use “the dip” on my 22 can. The byproduct (leftover liquid) is lead acetate. Very dangerous. This lead can be absorbed through your skin. It must go to a hazmat facility. I am lucky my local household chemical disposal will accept it. Many won’t. I do it outside with gloves, long sleeves , face shield, respirator, in a glass jar. When I’m done, I pour kitty litter into the glass jar label it, duct tape the cap on and double seal it in Ziploc bags. This is how I give it to the hazmat facility. This protects them too, as if it should shatter they won’t get splashed either.
NICE. THANKYOU
Yep. Make sure and read the pinned comment.
carduarer cleaner scub also why did you use a screw driver take off with out black tape to prevent scatching ?
Because my guns and everything I attach to them are tools. I use my tools to do work. Some wear and tare is expected. I could care less about some scratches.
Case in point: I got a big scratch on the top of my $3800 scope today. Don’t care. Still works perfectly.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork thats you I take care of my stuff
Are the sonic cleaners ok for brake cleaning..??
I'm told they are. I don't own one, but a lot of people use them.
Instaed of the carbon build up on the brake, the caked up carbon build up on the crown is more of my concern, especially if you have a non-flat / retreated style crown. My method is to soap it up with Hoppe 9 for an hour. I heard CLR works pretty well as well but i don't want any strong acid in touch with my barrel metal. Then, use the tail of a bamboo disposable chopstick you can get in any asian restaurant to shove the build up. Normally it should just fall off easily. If not, soak longer and do it again. I success everytime using this method :)
A good method is the one that works. 🤙
I've been soaking mine in Hoppe 9, have 2 soaking right now, but I want to try the Lemi-Shine...
Bore cleaner and some of those fancy ear cleaning tools. I'd like to think if you clean it after you shoot it, all is well.
Is it fair to assume that this holds true for comps and flash hiders?
You mean by "this" that it gets them clean? Yes.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork lol very funny. I should have clarified. I was asking if a dirty comp/flash hider could affect accuracy. My main rifle that I’m learning on (ie, I’ve got ammo for it and trust the build) is a 16” ar with a comp/flash hider on it.
i have some blue stuff in my muzzle bird cage and i just bought it and idk what it is or what to do
Oxidation. Just clean it like this vid suggests. Don’t leave it sit in the solution longer than 30min though. Should be fine.
What’s the best way to clean off caked on carbon buildup on the crown?
"best"? I'm not sure. Some guys will literally stand their rifle up vertically with the barrel sitting in a container filled with cleaning solution. Obviously damaging the crown is a concern. Using soft nylon brush, like a toothbrush, to gently scrape off the carbon.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork Thank you!
I've never used lemon shine for removing carbon but Bore Teck carbon remover is faster and easier than most other products including CLR . and is not as caustic as many other cleaners can be.... It cost more than lemon shine or CLR....
I clean my Area 419 Sidewinder every 500 Rounds in a Sonic Cleaner with a couple of drops of Dawn Dish Washing Soap, no scrubbing required. Works great! 💦
Is it Nitrided or stainless?
@@Millertime118 Nitrided
What about brake solvent or carb cleaner??
Never tried either of those. Have you?
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork Sorry no. Thanks just the same. While I'm getting "long in the tooth", and having firearms since my youth, I am new to precision shooting. Attempting to learn all I can. Don't have 500 rounds through my RPR 6.5CM yet, but have cleaned up the bolt and action with solvent - before oiling - sp thought I'd ask.
I thought you were going to say “ and then I use my wife’s tooth brush “ lol 😂
What’s the wife gonna say when she sees her toothbrush? Cool video btw, thanks for info, I own two 419 brakes
It literally says on their website to not use lemishine or citrus base cleaners because it could discolor the nitride and void the warranty 🤯😩 💩
Happened to mine... according to the guy there I emailed they recommend boretech. Not using lemishine or clr on my stuff again despite what others say. To each there own but on my gear I’ll steer clear.
noted. thanks. It did not discolor mine nor would I care if it did. I should have said that in the vid though.
Mine is raw stainless what do I use for that ?
Same. Won’t hurt it. Just don’t leave it soaking for longer than 20 minutes at a time. (In my opinion)
You ever use this method to clean a suppressor? I have a TBAC Ultra 7 and they say to use CLR, but I'm just a little hesitant to do that...
I have not tried a suppressor yet.
Read the pinned comment, lemishine could remove coatings as well.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork Ya I saw that comment too. They say to stand the suppressor up and just fill the inside so it's not touching the coating, just the titanium. Might have to give this a shot
@@trevorschuetz1530 cool, let me know how it goes. I might be interested to try it.
I have been shooting with brakes installed or permanently affixed for some years now and learned that simply cleaning it while installed is not good enough. Carbon building up around your crown will affect accuracy and even corrode and damage your crown over time. If there is a gap between muzzle/crown to where your brake starts that is a horrible spot for carbon to build up and must be scrubbed off gently with solvent and nylon brush.
I agree
will this turn it . or Chang coler
yes, it could. If you leave to soak too long it could mess up the finish on the metal. I never leave mine to soak longer than 20 minutes and I also clean off the muzzle brake after soaking. My brakes have never been discolored. Use at your own risk.
I'd just drop it in a jar of Ed's Red and let it soak over night, then wipe it down and swab it out.
Cool. Whatever works.
You should try a sonic cleaner
I have one now. I'll be using it going forward. works very well.
That is why you get a matte black muzzle brake. 😂
Ha. Thanks for watching.
CLR
I heard through the grapevine, that Paul Harrell is now accepting gun parts to clean so he has something to do while sleeping...
CLR cuts carbon better then any solvent I have used. Credit goes to Erik cortina.
Cool. Thanks.
Just watched that video 👍
@@okienightstalker3145 crazy. I’ve heard people say that but I didn’t experience that.
Will turn black nitride brake pinkish.
After experiencing the area 419 hellfire match, I won't use any other brake
They are fabulous brakes for sure.
I soak my brake in the same stuff I use to remove carbon from my barrel. While my barrel is soaking, so is my brake.
If you really want to piss off area 419, call it 420-1. LOL
haha nice.
So the bore brush and patches don’t clean the brake? I guess after 30 years of using bore cleaner I’ll change ?????
I don’t believe I said anything about changing what you do. If it works, why change?
Precision Rifle Network Ok .
bruh berryman chemdip small bucket for 20$, hoppes no9 solvent 32oz for 15$....mix a small containers just for this application to throw the muzzle device in that can be sealed like a survival container size of a small water bottle you see on amazon. boil water, in a pot secure the container cap side out of the hot water and let it cool on its own takes like 20 min, do it first with the berrymen and then hoppes solvent. you can use the same liquids many times...first you gotta get the damn thing off...still same deal but this time the whole barrel goes in the can and you wait....repeat and if still stuck after 2 tries, get a brass hammer, dip in the berrymens again but this time its very hot, since its been in the there for like 10min and as soon as out of the bath strike on the crush washer area a few times all around and try to looses, repeat if not successful...if still stuck start praying.
Why not just use Hoppes?
Didn't seem to work as well as the Lemishine for me.
3% peroxide and white vinegar mix 50/50
Cool. I’ve heard that works well.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork I guess but I do know it is not good for aluminum parts though
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork do a video if you can it would be interesting to see.
Ultrasonic. Easiest and fastest.
What if you dont remove the break?
Help me understand your question please. Are you asking how to go about cleaning the brake if you can't/don't remove it from the barrel?
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork yes sir
@@DS-gd1xw I would say to clean it often, so the carbon doesn’t have time to build up as much. Spray on or wipe on the cleaner and let it sit for short periods. (20 minutes max) and then scrub with a brush. Then clean off with something like windex or simple green to completely remove the lemishine or other carbon cleaners.
Just a suggestion. Make sure to read my pinned comment at the top about discoloration.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork where is the pin about discoloration
You guys clean you muzzle breaks?
well I aint so sure its absolutely necessary for accuracy. I have shot some really good long range scores with extremely dirty barrels and brakes. I tear my competition rifle down twice a year when setting up for my summer and winter loads. When I got it tore down to switch to summer loads, I usually clean everything. Cleaning helps everything come loose easier when I tear it down. I change barrels every year and its nice when everything comes apart and goes together easy.
Im fixing to try this guys idea mostly because CLR is about $5 for a cup and Lemi shine is pretty much free to use and in my reloading room already. I reall aint expecting accuracy increases but i am expecting a clean easy rebuild.
Lemishine is Citric Acid.
yep, thanks for watching.
No videos show how to clean a pinned and welded brake. Guess I’ll just mean the rifle with the barrel in the liquid against the wall lol.
The manual actually lists lemushine as a no go
Yep. Because it “might” mess up the finish and they don’t want to deal with returns.
I have been using it on mine repeatedly and it has not ruined the finish, and obviously the break still works perfectly.
Simply just a liability statement so they don’t have to deal with dumb people who leave their break sitting in the chemicals for too long.
Just go to local Goodwill and get glasswear to use as dedicated gun stuff. Not worth ingested chemicals.
yep, I threw it away. thx.
I just soak mine in white vinegar for a few hours.
Another vote for Boretech eliminator from me. I wipe off what I can with a rag, then let boretech soak into it and then scrub it off.
I use all three bortech cleaners. Eliminator for general cleaning. Carbon eliminator for heavy carbon and copper eliminator for heavy copper. I simply soak my brake in the carbon eliminator. problem solved.
I use the hydrogen peroxide and vinegar solution, break will literally be like new
I need to try that too. Thanks for mentioning it.
It works phenomenally well, i use it on my suppressors as well. Just needs to be handled very carefully post clean.
I use dish soap, baking soda and water to neutralize after cleaning and before I handle the break
ua-cam.com/video/jDwwnNtMxlk/v-deo.html
@@briancobb978 Its not so much the acidity you are worried about, its the now 'water soluble' lead that will leech into your skin and allow a dangerous amount to be absorbed quickly. The goal is to turn the aqueous lead back into elemental lead, which is still toxic, but much easier to handle.
This is far more of a concern with suppressors, especially rimfire, but I would still be cautious.
Still good info though, thanks.
That water looked way too clean after the soak.
Do not use lemi-shine. Even Area419 says not to do so.
I'm aware. Please read the pinned post.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork I'm not trying to be an ass, but why is the video still up if it shows exactly what NOT to do (unless it was titled "How NOT to clean your muzzle device")? The pinned comment, for whatever reason was not at the top of the comment feed for me.
@@OFFICIALUND It's still up because despite what area419's site says, myself and a good number of people that messaged me, have never experienced discoloration of thier brakes due to using Lemishine. In addition to that, other brake manufacturers have videos on their own social media sites saying Lemishine is a great product to use on brakes. In addition again, even if a brake gets slightly discolored, it won't magically cease to be a high quality, perfectly functioning, product. That all being said, if I had it to do over again, I would have used an APA brake instead of the Area419...just to keep from dealing with this drama.
I totally telling your wife hahaha jk
It will take the coler off the brack
Sometimes yes. Sometimes no. Read the pinned comment.
Here for a snarky reply from PRN! Hit me...
Be gone troll
Anyone use automotive brake cleaner?
I wondered about this too. never tried it.
@@sidewalkhillbilly6636 any adverse effects on coating? Just want to make sure before I start blasting everything with it. Only used it on cars.
it's clearly stated on their website to not do this and your are doing the opposite way lol
Maintenance on any muzzle brake is essential. Just like your barrel, muzzle brakes need cleaned. Over time carbon will build up in the ports, mainly the last port as the first two are semi-self cleaning from the muzzle blast. When this carbon builds up, it will eventually get to the point that bullets can actually strike it. Depending on your shooting regimen you may not notice this, you might just call it a flier. But in a competition when you need every round to impact, this is critical. Carbon bullet strikes are a worst case scenario, but the buildup can also cause accuracy or POI issues just due to airflow changes in the brake ports.
NOTE: The use of Lemishine (or any citric-acid cleaner) or CLR to clean your brake will likely discolor the black nitride, and will void the lifetime warranty of your product. Don’t do this. Seriously. It’ll turn pink and you’ll feel like an idiot.
that's cool, but companies say stuff like this all the time for liability reasons. I've been doing it for years now with no discoloration. I'm not aware of any other brake manufacturer that warns about this potential. Follow their guidelines if you want. I have enough experience with it to know that it doesn't matter when done correctly.
U must reload.
?
Sorry in the IDF Airborne Infantry you clean your barrel every day then lightly oil. AND every time after shooting your weapon..
Yep. The military seems to be guilty of upholding tradition, which includes over cleaning. I understand why though, and won’t fault them for it.
“How to clean a QD Muzzle Brake”
K. Thx.
Just FYI 2k rounds worth of carbon is a pain in the ass 😂
lol yes, I agree
Use CLR for 15 min. no scrubbing, rinse with Alcohol
Don’t use clr
@@ohiodragndime Tell that to Eric Cortina that’s where I learned about it
CLR for stainless steel, not blued.
@@barrygrant2907 You are correct, I thought about that after I did the post, I did make a comment not to use on coated items. Thanks Tim
please never use glasses that you plan to drink out of gun cleaning. just in case that wasn't common sense.
It’s cleanable... humans ingest far worse toxins than these minuscule trace amounts in a glass like this. Thanks for being so concerned for my safety though.
The break should be 11 or 1 clock depend on if you are right or left handed …
"should".... please explain
How to clean a muzzle brake. Unscrew it from your barrel and throw it in the garbage.
😂 personally I wish we could all run silencers. I feel your pain.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork All my muzzle brakes are clean, Lol. ;)
Take it off and soak it in CLR overnight. It isn't rocket science.
should be pretty simple
Clean it? I shoot a 50BMG and it is self cleaning, like an oven, or a vagina.
BS, im not going to listen to a guy who runs his bipod controls on the right side of his rifle.
lol ok then.
use gloves, and not a glass that will later be used for drinking . sometimes common sense is not so common ;)
Umm you do realize that Lemishine is a dish soap?! 🤦🏻♂️
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork you do realize lemishine will not dissolve lead?
@@sakofinland3421 well, i guess if we're playing this game... you do realize that the cup will get washed again before use right? Also, I guess we better stop touching bullets, pencils, and other common household items because of trace amounts of lead? Chill dude. It's just not that important.
@@PrecisionRifleNetwork I highly doubt it's trace amounts. Get your self a rimfire suppressor and weight it before and after 500 rounds. There's more than just trace amounts coming out the end of a barrel. Btw, lead hasnt been used in pencils since 1978. Don't be so offended when you personally ask for comments and people point out wrongs in your videos. Try to take it as a lesson and learn rather than think u know everything
@@sakofinland3421 look, the point is that your first comment wasn't helpful, it was an attack basically saying I don't know what I'm talking about. If you have watched my vids regularaly, I almost always admit when i'm wrong. So then my sense of justice kicks in and I have to defend myself. .....look, this is way down the rabbit hole, but what you're suggesting is that because there's a chance that I might ingest "some" lead I should not have used the glass. Then you use the argument of "500 rounds and a rimfire suppressor." What the heck does that have to do with a glass that i'm going to clean with soap and water before I use it again? How much lead do you really think I would be ingesting? Definitely not enough to worry about. Definitely not enough for you to come on here and bust my balls for it.