TANDEMKROSS - How to Maintain your Compensator
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- Regular care is the best way to extend the life of your compensator, so Bill discusses and demonstrates the best method for cleaning and maintaining your compensator, as well as some more questionable methods.
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You should really include the instructions about the pre maintenance in the packaging. Might help dummies like me that slapped in on and went to the range to proceed to put around 300 non plated lead round noses though it just to get home and realize your f'd.
Couple more options: if you have a bunch of build up, take a punch and hammer it out. I use this method and get chunks of lead to fall off. On the game changer pro comp - you can also heat it up with a torch to soften the lead. It will discolor the finish, but it's super quick and easy.
I watched a video with a young lady showing how to Make a 10/22 auto bolt release i probably watched 20 such vids yours or i guess hers was the only one that didnt beat on pins with hammer and punch good job well done thx
Use a propane torch and melt it out, works great. It gets hot so be careful. It it is a polished stainless compensator, re-polish with a cotton wheel and green abrasive.
After several hundred rounds at the club mine gets a lot of lead built up. I just gently chip it out..just watch not to stab yourself.. Im glad I saw this video as I was wondering why so much lead was getting into the compensator, glad to know its normal...
Thanks, I will try the pick. I got a PC-9mm carbine this past spring and it eats up cheap ammo. The comp is already bumpy along the sides. A brush does nothing.
Thank you!!!
The 1:1 solution of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, as you mention, creates acid, but it is primary to get rid of lead buildup, so there is lead acetate in the solution which has to be disposed of as a hazardous material (not simply flushed down the toilet). If the primary goal is to eliminate carbon buildup, how about using either CLR or Lemi Shine Booster. The 2nd may be less harmful to finishes, but the 1st is okay with stainless steel finishes.
I like the idea of lubing the insides of the compensator before going to the range, and cleaning the compensator after the range session as part of the normal field clean. Alas, like many, I came into this late and already have a comp with lots of carbon buildup. I only shoot jacketed 22LRs, so lead buildup is not a concern for me. But 22 ammo is really dirty, so it's the carbon buildup that I want to eliminate.
The problem with "simply buy a new one" eventually becomes a non-solution. The product may not be manufactured and no longer in stock, so you end up buying something else that is unknown, or coming up with some other solution, or just foregoing using a compensator at all. I know one guy that stated he just uses his firearms, never cleans them, and tosses them when they no longer work to buy new ones. That's not my style. I'm still driving a 20-year old car because it is in great condition, low mileage, and does everything I want it to do. Being old doesn't mandate non-usability nor necessitate replacement. I want to maintain what I have. To clean out the carbon, I'm thinking of first trying Lemi Shine since it is a lot less corrosive, and then CLR. I have a stainless steel compensator. Once I get it cleaned, I'll try your trick of using Froglube paste to pre-coat the inside of the comp, and clean out the dirty lube as part of the gun cleanup after range time.
did you try the CLR? how are the results? TIA
@@henryzzzzzz I tried both CLR and Lemi Shine. Both will do some cleanup (you'll see some bubbling with the compensator submerged, and debris settled at the bottom of the cup), but 22 ammo is very dirty. After a couple hundred rounds, the debris cakes up in the compensator ports. To get rid of the caked on debris when I get home to clean the gun, I have to use a dental pick to pry out the caked on debris. At first, I thought I was prying into the metal since removing the debris was hard. Nope, the caked on debris is hard to remove, and takes hard picking to pry the stuff off the compensator. The ports are not polished nor are they smooth. The roughness causes the caking along with making it difficult to remove. After picking off the hard caked on debris, I use either CLR or Lemi Shine. Now when I go to the range, I apply FrogLube to the inside of the compensator and into the ports using swabs before shooting. This makes later cleanup a lot easier. However, after a hundred rounds, the lube has been blown out, and the caking starts again. So, I bring the lube and long swabs, and the pick, to the range to clean and reapply after about a hundred rounds (easy to measure since the mags take 10 rounds, and I bring 10 mags). Cleaning the ports would be a lot easier if the ports were smooth and polished and chromed to match the outside finish.
@@vanguardlh9548 Thanks a lot! How is the anodized finish holding up with the use of CLR/Lemi Shine?
@@henryzzzzzz The outside and front of the comp looks like new. It's the inside and ports that have gotten blackened. Eventually I plan on using a rotary tool to clean the ports starting with buffing heads to see how well that cleans, and maybe having to go to a bead grinding tip but would like to avoid that.
@@vanguardlh9548 TY
Does it matter what kind of live to put. Asking for a friend lol. Thanks in advance
I might throw mine in my brass cleaner the next time I clean up brass for reloading
Is it okay to remove the compensator for cleaning, or do you recommend leaving it on the gun once installed?
Definitely feel free to remove it for cleaning, will help you get into it much easier. Just be sure your firearm is unloaded/clear and safe before removing it.
Whats the light
This is Way off your topic; but you sound just like the guy in the movie "30 days of night"... Badass movie 😎
I'm big horror movie guy but somehow I still haven't managed to see that one. I'll have to check it out.
I am NOT going to mix up that lead acid stuff...to toxic, Period! I'd rather just hit it with my trust gun solvent, a brass brush, and a plastic scrape blade (like the Wheeler, or Real Avid brand). I like the pre-lube trick, good idea!
I do not ever take a muzzle brake or comp off my guns unless it's to replace it with another. I will use blue loctite, crank it down, and forget about it. I will continue to clean my gun as usual WITH the brakes on. Misleading video.
I use a brush + Shooters Choice
Moose milk, 1 part Ballistol to 5 of water, is used by cap and ball shooters sprayed down the barrel and other parts, and left to soak for 5 minutes, could be another way to address this problem, what say you?
I've never tried that particular concoction myself but it sounds like it could work.
would hoppes lubricating oil work as well or do you recommend frogs only?
hoppes will work!
Lol this should be Titled (The Side affects of using a Compensator)Overall don’t believe it makes that much if any difference on Accuracy To me just Not worth it Looks cool though. JMO.
You guys have some Great products.🇺🇸🍻✌🏼
my comp is built into the slide tf u mean get a new one
This video only applies to muzzle devices that can be removed and maintained. We suggest if you are having issues to reach out to the manufacturer of the slide!
Lube always works.......
"To prevent lead build up in the first place, we recommend using a thin layer of Dillon case lube." - Tandemkross Game Changer Compensator Installation instructions v.1.2