KC I have not used this tabs I just saw the video today 02/23/2019 and I’m very pleased to see some one showing me staff that I would like to do. but I have no time to experiment And you have done it thank you for that I will take that and try it You shouldn’t even worry about people that doesn’t be you You’re not forcing anyone to go and buy anything So if any one wants try use it buy it if not keep waiting your time on your old ways
Here's a tip you can take or leave - if you have a "cheapo" tab & you want to turn it into a tiny terror, get your blowtorch & torch the tabs pulling surface lightly(ish) just before you apply your hot glue. You will get bond-strengths that are crazy. What you are doing is 2-fold, first, you're "blurring" the overly "dimpled" surface, making it flatter, hence better adhesion & secondly you're creating a pre-tack on the tab that the hot melt will cling to like a limpet. I use tabs purely for machine-pulling, I never hand pull so I need really high bond strengths or the puller just takes them off instantly to no effect on the panel. The puller exceeds any pressure you could achieve by hand from the very first instant, so a tab you think is well adhered when hand pulling may in fact have a rubbish bond when you hoik at it with 2000kg. 2 ton of force from the get-go tends to highlight any shortcomings in the bond. Amazingly, 99% of factory paint can withstand those point pressures of pull - which is pretty mind-blowing when you think about it. That factory paint is "On There" good.. When you pre-heat/smoosh the tab using a torch, right before you apply the glue - plus you have the panel at a genuine 40 degrees centigrade (not guessing, using a temp-laser to check) - and you're using top-notch hot-melt sticks - well when that tab finally lets go, it's like a bomb going off in the workshop. If it doesn't sound like a bomb going off, chances are very little of the panel moved & you will be frustrated, wondering what all this "glue-pulling" nonsense is about. I often hit the point where I have pulled to where I want to be (using 2000kg force) and don't want to pull any more so as not to over-pull the section - I hit the tab with the hot-air gun for about 30 seconds & BANG, it comes off, leaving me having pulled to just where I want to be. People see me using this to one-pull pretty deep nasty dents & are amazed that just a dab of glue can have such power to shift metal. Getting the glue off the panel is then the next problem - because if you did it right, using the really serious, no mucking about glue, on a dead-clean heated panel, then "a squirt of alcohol" doesn't do much in terms of making it let go... it roundly ignores the alcohol & stays firmly on there, unlike in the "movies".. break out the heat gun again... it ain't coming off cold - no siree... not a hope.
This is very interesting. I have been professionally dent pressing for 5 years now and I started off using the Atlas glue tabs and I was satisfied with the pulling strength and then I got some Wurth glue tabs and those had terrible pulling strength so I sanded the radius down of the Wurth tab to match it to the flatter style of the Atlas tab and my modified Wurth tabs grips even harder than the Atlas tab. I am currently working and a whole lot of Land Rover and Jaguar Aluminium cars and a good pulling strength is very important. This video possibly confirms the idea that a flat or slightly rounded glue tab works best but I think rounded glue tabs still have their place
I encourage you to actually measure the depth of some of dents you're going to repair. They are less than 2mm deep! The exaggerated dome on a tab, especially the red wurth tabs you're talking about is something like 6-8mm! It;s way too domed to fit into such a shallow depression.
I thought that a textured tab would provide more retencion when pulling. It seems to me that maybe not squeezing the glue coud provide a good glue layer. Just as you did with the flat tabs.
The surface you are using is already flat, not a dent, so it's a bad control subject The tabs have ridges for a reason, it creates more surface area for the glue to hold onto on the tab it's similar to why you sand before you paint, a rough textured surface holds better again, because it is going to be used in a dent and not a flat surface, you will have even glue distribution on those other tabs inside of a dent
This WAS the theory but it doesn't work like that in the real world in THESE conditions. Have you ever measured the depth of say your average hail strike dent (about the size of a US quarter)? I have. Take a guess how deep it REALLY is? I promise you won't believe me but using this www.blackplaguepdr.com/products/dent-depth-gauge As an industry (PDR) we know that those dents are about .(point) 25.....millimeters deep!!! One quarter of a millimeter! The exaggerated round size of a "normal" glue tab is an artists rendition of what the inside of a repairable dent looks like. Try it for yourself and you'll see.
@@blackplagueadmin507 Okay,but instead of buying yours,I'll just take all my inferior tabs,and sand them down.Ha Ha,guess I showed YOU,LOL! J/K,hope all is well with you!
I just came from the Black Plague website. Their stuff is crazy expensive. Maybe not so much for the professional, but for the do-it-yourselfer like me way too much.
Grizzled Old Dude, thanks for going to the site! Our stuff is absolutely geared toward the professional. Pulling metal up is only half the battle! You've got to be able to knock it back down cleanly for a perfect repair, and that's really hard to do. Howver, we do have some pretty inexpensive products www.blackplaguepdr.com/collections/gang-green-tabs/products/smooth-tabs-gang-green-skinny-tab-gst51mm-5-pack And honeslty, anything cheaper like ebay china products don't work AT ALL, so how expensive is something that costs $20 but does absolutely nothing??
First of all there are no dents in the flat glass as would be in metal. What do you expect the glue to do on curved tips on a flat surface? Secondly you are also pushing the tabs in too hard and too much squeezing the glue out and making contact with the glass with the tip. The ridges and patterns in the tips create more "surface area" for the glue to stick too. Your recommending sanding them off is the stupidest thing that Ive heard.
Clearly you haven't tried these tabs my friend, you can try to push them down but the glue wont thin like it does on any other patterned tab. They have superior hold and put any patterned tabs I was using before to shame. The smooth series comes in a few different molding materials as well, the Black Ice tabs for instance will literally pull tectonic plates off the Earth if given a chance.
I dented a piece of plexiglass at the end to answer that question JP. Have you measured how deep a "glue pull-able" dent is? I suggest you do that to see how shallow they actually are. I'll save you the trouble: about HALF A MILLIMETER deep. It's barely there in the first place.
Keith I am confused about your video. The grip is in the dent best? The rough surface of the tab will have the most pull? The very thin will have little pull no?
You don't to want to push too hard on your table so that the glue comes out around it... Flat tabs spread glue more evenly so that the glue stick better to your car but the glue stick less to your tab... a better compromise would be ridged tabs but you don't wanna push to hard on it so that the glue comes out around it... Thumbs up if you stick to my processus lol
1 your not suppose to push all the glue out 2 textured tabs are designed for a softer pull which means 3 a smooth surfaced tab will suction better because that’s what it was designed for therefore the glue spreads out more evenly
You can prove what you said if you ever use steel tabs - if you use steel tabs with a rough sanded surface, they will pull badly - if you polish the surface to a mirror they will pull like crazy in comparison. Counter-intuitive, but true.
I have an unrelated question concerning paint. I have a 2005 Lexus ES330 with 240,000 miles that still looks and drives fantastic. From 20 feet away, the car looks great, however I need to repair the clear coat on multiple areas. What's is a practical effective and economical way of repainting or restoring the blistering areas without having to sand and repaint the entire car? I want to get away with a less than $1000 repair since the car is already 13 years old. Any suggestions? Thanks...
Umaxen 00 you basically don't have any viable options at that price point. Quality paintwork is expensive. There are a few body shop national chains like earl scheib or maaco that specialize in cheap repaints that look ok from 10' away but you'll never get close to the factory Lexus quality without spending 5-7k That being said, if your paint it peeling chances are it's NOT original in the first place!
is your paint oxidizing? if so, you'll have to sand it all away and redo. But hopefully it isn't and you can just sand off the clear coat and reapply with a 2k clear coat spray can or two. there's plenty of canned spray paint jobs tutorials here on UA-cam
Great video, Just for fun I'm going to sand one of my cheap tabs down just to try it, but I defiantly can appreciate a quality product and I've seen lots of other PDR videos where people are using these tabs so they must be good :) I just checked out your website and saved it , I don't think your over priced at all. I've used quality tabs and tools vs Ebay crap before and the difference is night and day. I got into PDR back in 2013 and 2014 then got away from it for a bit as I got frustrated, however I'm getting back into it. There are allot better tools and information out now compared to 5 years ago. This video for example.
Isn't the pattern in the tab so the glue will be able to hold on to the tab better? I think nyour pushing the patterened ones down too far. you should leave 1/32 - 1/16 of glue between the tab and the dent.
TW, that's the idea...but in reality it doesn't play out like that. The patterns invite variables like air, dirt, stress points, etc. Surface tension is a player in this equation. Listen, bottom line is if you call a full time PDR tech in anytown usa and ask if he uses Blackplague 8/10 times he will say "yes" They work better
hey i am new to this, and have been working on a lot of Subaru hail cars that have been totaled. so i try adhesive, then torch, then to stud gun. my employer buys them,we fix and refinish, and he sells them. i need some help-- how does tab size and dent size work? i may be using too small of tabs. also, sometimes my tabs fall off with light pressure. i have noticed the age of teh tab glued on makes differences in how well it grabs. i have used unknown glue sticks, some really nice gray ones, and now am using gorilla glue sticks. I am bodyman by trade, and want to get full time into this. i also would like help in estimating repair times on panels. i clean the tabs and car surface with isopropyl alcohol at 91 percent .
Why didn't they just make the tabs smooth from the beginning? There must be a reason for the holes in the original design. I'm not arguing the logic behind your video, just curious why you think another manufacturer made the change.
the non smooth surface increases the surface area the non-smooth tab is holding onto the glue. The amount of glue that adheres to the dent is only so much with smooth or non-smooth tab. But with non-smooth the area the tabs are holding onto the glue is greater. I think the non-smooth tabs in this example are not enough glue or pushing down too hard to illustrate the smooth tab benefit. TBH - no one had done a back to back test to see how much force you can generate from the different types of tabs. It would be good to see.
oldkid6 I've talked to many of the men who designed some of the "old" style tabs. They have shapes and "holes" in them because at that time ALL tabs had designs and they were all following each other in the industry.
yongmin kim this is exactly the theory that everyone used in the past. It turned out wrong. Not to say the old style tabs don't work; they do. Smooth tabs work better though.
@@blackplagueadmin507 You have the logic wrong. The patterns in the tabs are specifically designed to increase the surface area for the glue to adhere to. Anyone that knows basic maths will tell you one of your flat rounded tabs that has the same diameter as a patterned tab will have less surface area. The peaks and troughs of the patterned tabs are designed specifically so the glue has more surface area to adhere to. IMO, your demonstration is grossly bias because there wasn't enough glue on the patterned tabs as you need to take into account the peaks and troughs to allow for more glue to go into them to provide the necessary pulling power. Without doing a proper pull strength test you are misinforming people that your products are better.
I appreciate your perspective, but I am VERY involved in the PDR industry and personally talk to hundreds of full time PDR techs. The smooth tabs work better. It's a fact. I don't have the logic wrong at all. The "logic" you are referring to is in reality a Theory. The theory proved wrong in this use case. Your basic maths are correct but increased surface area on one side, doesn't make it stronger on the OTHER side (the smooth painted metal) @@jaytam1
Learning which tabs to use, how to place the tabs and how much glue to use is half of the job, your blaming tabs but its your lack of knowledge and experience that is the problem. How did everyone in PDR manage before your over priced tabs came along i wonder?
Garry, my "lack of experience" is 21 years of PDR every day, employing an entire team of pdr technicians, Personally knowing the designers and manufacturers of 70% of the glue tabs on the market, creating my own line of hot melt adhesive specifically for the PDR industry, doing 223 hours of podcasting on the PDR industry specifically, and teaching advanced skills at a seminar that over 100 veteran PDR guys attend every year. So yeah pretty unexperienced. To answer your facetious question about how anyone got along before Blackplague tabs: I was one of them! I had ten years of glue pulling before I created Blackplague. We did what we could with sub par products. We pulled something 5 times that we now pull once. We cut tabs down into different shapes to make things work. It worked....ok. Now the tabs work amazingly and Blackplague has been copied with the flat smooth face by 5 other manufacturers, so I guess it's working. Good luck w your PDR career though!
@@keithcosentino3929, do you accept that if you had applied more glue to the 'competitor's' products, there would be less of the pull tab bases being visible? do a fairer comparison to get me to part with my cash.
@@vsvnrg3263 Yes I do accept that. BUT the problem would remain: Inconsistent depths of glue between the tab and the metal, resulting in an uneven pull. You just wouldn't be able to see it on a video. You would have a hard time measuring that. The tabs have a zero questions money back guarantee man. Give them a try (if you do PDR for a living. If you're a DIY guy you won't see the advantage)
@@keithcosentino3929, you could have shot the video again once you realised you hadn't put enough glue on the base of the competitor's product. with all your years of experience, i would have thought that applying the appropriate amount of glue would be second nature. if you want people to buy your product, you should have produced a video that did not give observant, intelligent people a reason to question aspects of your presentation. try tv advertorials. the viewers can't ask you direct questions.
if i have to, home made tabs from pretty much anything - wood, metal plastic.. and straight hot glue. works for me, but i'm no pro. otherwise push the dent. failing to see the logic here, whichever tab works for the job at hand.
Consistency has nothing to do with a tab's ability to pull metal. The tab sticks to the glue and the glue sticks to the dent. Patterned tabs cause the glue to stick to the tab more aggressively due to increased surface area. Now, what is the best possible tab? Easy, it's the one that leaves exactly half the glue on the car and half the glue on the tab. A galvanized steel tab would work far better than any plastic tab, but you'd have to preheat a galvo tab. So, where does the glue stay with whatever tab you use? That's the surface that has better glue adhesion. It's usually the car body that adheres better, right? That's because the car's surface isn't greasy-slick and soft like a PLASTIC tab.
I think the point of textured tabs is being missed. The texture increases grip from glue to tab and when you glue into a dent the glue will never be compressed to the point it dissapears. Flat surface has less traction than a textured...
Jonathan, it's not being missed at all. That's why those other tabs are designed that way, it's just wrong. In this application, it doesn't work as well.
real 'science' is demonstrateable, measurable and 'repeatable' ex. water being self leveling and unable to 'pool ' on a ball.. you are pushing the 'tabs' in at different pressures/ angles and seem biased : ) the curved surfaces with the patterns actually have more 'surface area' contacting the glue but to be fair.. even on a flat surface, use a load cell and test them side by side... at least you can weed out the bs and show the 'facts' , even on the BP , which holds more pressure? thick or thin layer of glue...
well how about you add a little more glue and don't press so hard plus it's a flat surface I don't think you have a clue as to what you're talkin about it all
KC I have not used this tabs I just saw the video today 02/23/2019 and I’m very pleased to see some one showing me staff that I would like to do.
but I have no time to experiment
And you have done it thank you for that I will take that and try it
You shouldn’t even worry about people that doesn’t be you
You’re not forcing anyone to go and buy anything
So if any one wants try use it buy it if not keep waiting your time on your old ways
Here's a tip you can take or leave - if you have a "cheapo" tab & you want to turn it into a tiny terror, get your blowtorch & torch the tabs pulling surface lightly(ish) just before you apply your hot glue. You will get bond-strengths that are crazy. What you are doing is 2-fold, first, you're "blurring" the overly "dimpled" surface, making it flatter, hence better adhesion & secondly you're creating a pre-tack on the tab that the hot melt will cling to like a limpet.
I use tabs purely for machine-pulling, I never hand pull so I need really high bond strengths or the puller just takes them off instantly to no effect on the panel. The puller exceeds any pressure you could achieve by hand from the very first instant, so a tab you think is well adhered when hand pulling may in fact have a rubbish bond when you hoik at it with 2000kg. 2 ton of force from the get-go tends to highlight any shortcomings in the bond. Amazingly, 99% of factory paint can withstand those point pressures of pull - which is pretty mind-blowing when you think about it. That factory paint is "On There" good..
When you pre-heat/smoosh the tab using a torch, right before you apply the glue - plus you have the panel at a genuine 40 degrees centigrade (not guessing, using a temp-laser to check) - and you're using top-notch hot-melt sticks - well when that tab finally lets go, it's like a bomb going off in the workshop. If it doesn't sound like a bomb going off, chances are very little of the panel moved & you will be frustrated, wondering what all this "glue-pulling" nonsense is about. I often hit the point where I have pulled to where I want to be (using 2000kg force) and don't want to pull any more so as not to over-pull the section - I hit the tab with the hot-air gun for about 30 seconds & BANG, it comes off, leaving me having pulled to just where I want to be. People see me using this to one-pull pretty deep nasty dents & are amazed that just a dab of glue can have such power to shift metal.
Getting the glue off the panel is then the next problem - because if you did it right, using the really serious, no mucking about glue, on a dead-clean heated panel, then "a squirt of alcohol" doesn't do much in terms of making it let go... it roundly ignores the alcohol & stays firmly on there, unlike in the "movies".. break out the heat gun again... it ain't coming off cold - no siree... not a hope.
This is very interesting. I have been professionally dent pressing for 5 years now and I started off using the Atlas glue tabs and I was satisfied with the pulling strength and then I got some Wurth glue tabs and those had terrible pulling strength so I sanded the radius down of the Wurth tab to match it to the flatter style of the Atlas tab and my modified Wurth tabs grips even harder than the Atlas tab. I am currently working and a whole lot of Land Rover and Jaguar Aluminium cars and a good pulling strength is very important. This video possibly confirms the idea that a flat or slightly rounded glue tab works best but I think rounded glue tabs still have their place
I encourage you to actually measure the depth of some of dents you're going to repair. They are less than 2mm deep! The exaggerated dome on a tab, especially the red wurth tabs you're talking about is something like 6-8mm! It;s way too domed to fit into such a shallow depression.
I thought that a textured tab would provide more retencion when pulling. It seems to me that maybe not squeezing the glue coud provide a good glue layer. Just as you did with the flat tabs.
The surface you are using is already flat, not a dent, so it's a bad control subject
The tabs have ridges for a reason, it creates more surface area for the glue to hold onto on the tab
it's similar to why you sand before you paint, a rough textured surface holds better
again, because it is going to be used in a dent and not a flat surface, you will have even glue distribution on those other tabs inside of a dent
This WAS the theory but it doesn't work like that in the real world in THESE conditions.
Have you ever measured the depth of say your average hail strike dent (about the size of a US quarter)? I have. Take a guess how deep it REALLY is? I promise you won't believe me but using this www.blackplaguepdr.com/products/dent-depth-gauge
As an industry (PDR) we know that those dents are about
.(point) 25.....millimeters deep!!!
One quarter of a millimeter! The exaggerated round size of a "normal" glue tab is an artists rendition of what the inside of a repairable dent looks like. Try it for yourself and you'll see.
@@blackplagueadmin507 Okay,but instead of buying yours,I'll just take all my inferior tabs,and sand them down.Ha Ha,guess I showed YOU,LOL! J/K,hope all is well with you!
I just came from the Black Plague website. Their stuff is crazy expensive. Maybe not so much for the professional, but for the do-it-yourselfer like me way too much.
Grizzled Old Dude, thanks for going to the site! Our stuff is absolutely geared toward the professional. Pulling metal up is only half the battle! You've got to be able to knock it back down cleanly for a perfect repair, and that's really hard to do. Howver, we do have some pretty inexpensive products www.blackplaguepdr.com/collections/gang-green-tabs/products/smooth-tabs-gang-green-skinny-tab-gst51mm-5-pack
And honeslty, anything cheaper like ebay china products don't work AT ALL, so how expensive is something that costs $20 but does absolutely nothing??
First of all there are no dents in the flat glass as would be in metal. What do you expect the glue to do on curved tips on a flat surface? Secondly you are also pushing the tabs in too hard and too much squeezing the glue out and making contact with the glass with the tip. The ridges and patterns in the tips create more "surface area" for the glue to stick too. Your recommending sanding them off is the stupidest thing that Ive heard.
Clearly you haven't tried these tabs my friend, you can try to push them down but the glue wont thin like it does on any other patterned tab. They have superior hold and put any patterned tabs I was using before to shame. The smooth series comes in a few different molding materials as well, the Black Ice tabs for instance will literally pull tectonic plates off the Earth if given a chance.
Exactly, he is misinforming people.
You are correct Underwood's
I dented a piece of plexiglass at the end to answer that question JP. Have you measured how deep a "glue pull-able" dent is? I suggest you do that to see how shallow they actually are. I'll save you the trouble: about HALF A MILLIMETER deep. It's barely there in the first place.
A light just went on in my head, thanks a lot!
The only way to test is use a pulling scale and see what one pulls the most
Keith I am confused about your video. The grip is in the dent best? The rough surface of the tab will have the most pull? The very thin will have little pull no?
You don't to want to push too hard on your table so that the glue comes out around it... Flat tabs spread glue more evenly so that the glue stick better to your car but the glue stick less to your tab... a better compromise would be ridged tabs but you don't wanna push to hard on it so that the glue comes out around it... Thumbs up if you stick to my processus lol
Are these beveled? They appear to not be beveled. Does that matter when pulling door dings or hail?
1 your not suppose to push all the glue out 2 textured tabs are designed for a softer pull which means 3 a smooth surfaced tab will suction better because that’s what it was designed for therefore the glue spreads out more evenly
You can prove what you said if you ever use steel tabs - if you use steel tabs with a rough sanded surface, they will pull badly - if you polish the surface to a mirror they will pull like crazy in comparison. Counter-intuitive, but true.
I have an unrelated question concerning paint. I have a 2005 Lexus ES330 with 240,000 miles that still looks and drives fantastic. From 20 feet away, the car looks great, however I need to repair the clear coat on multiple areas. What's is a practical effective and economical way of repainting or restoring the blistering areas without having to sand and repaint the entire car? I want to get away with a less than $1000 repair since the car is already 13 years old. Any suggestions? Thanks...
Umaxen 00 you basically don't have any viable options at that price point. Quality paintwork is expensive. There are a few body shop national chains like earl scheib or maaco that specialize in cheap repaints that look ok from 10' away but you'll never get close to the factory Lexus quality without spending 5-7k
That being said, if your paint it peeling chances are it's NOT original in the first place!
You can mask off the areas and sand it down and clear coat it your self with either a spray can or a painters gun
Look up sweet car projects.
is your paint oxidizing? if so, you'll have to sand it all away and redo. But hopefully it isn't and you can just sand off the clear coat and reapply with a 2k clear coat spray can or two. there's plenty of canned spray paint jobs tutorials here on UA-cam
Great video, Just for fun I'm going to sand one of my cheap tabs down just to try it, but I defiantly can appreciate a quality product and I've seen lots of other PDR videos where people are using these tabs so they must be good :) I just checked out your website and saved it , I don't think your over priced at all. I've used quality tabs and tools vs Ebay crap before and the difference is night and day. I got into PDR back in 2013 and 2014 then got away from it for a bit as I got frustrated, however I'm getting back into it. There are allot better tools and information out now compared to 5 years ago. This video for example.
Isn't the pattern in the tab so the glue will be able to hold on to the tab better? I think nyour pushing the patterened ones down too far. you should leave 1/32 - 1/16 of glue between the tab and the dent.
TW, that's the idea...but in reality it doesn't play out like that. The patterns invite variables like air, dirt, stress points, etc. Surface tension is a player in this equation. Listen, bottom line is if you call a full time PDR tech in anytown usa and ask if he uses Blackplague 8/10 times he will say "yes" They work better
Hello, do you send your products to France? And if you do, can you please give me an estimate of the shipping price?
hey i am new to this, and have been working on a lot of Subaru hail cars that have been totaled. so i try adhesive, then torch, then to stud gun. my employer buys them,we fix and refinish, and he sells them. i need some help-- how does tab size and dent size work? i may be using too small of tabs. also, sometimes my tabs fall off with light pressure. i have noticed the age of teh tab glued on makes differences in how well it grabs. i have used unknown glue sticks, some really nice gray ones, and now am using gorilla glue sticks. I am bodyman by trade, and want to get full time into this. i also would like help in estimating repair times on panels. i clean the tabs and car surface with isopropyl alcohol at 91 percent .
Bradley Campbell m
Check out www.pdrcollege.com for some audio you can listen to while you work to learn about pdr
I use the smooth anyway but one you don’t push them down that hard for starters
Hey Tony! YOU don't push them that hard maybe, but I DO! That's how we get the best pulls here. Lots of pressure
ok cool where do I buy them
www.blackplaguepdr.com
Why didn't they just make the tabs smooth from the beginning? There must be a reason for the holes in the original design. I'm not arguing the logic behind your video, just curious why you think another manufacturer made the change.
the non smooth surface increases the surface area the non-smooth tab is holding onto the glue. The amount of glue that adheres to the dent is only so much with smooth or non-smooth tab. But with non-smooth the area the tabs are holding onto the glue is greater. I think the non-smooth tabs in this example are not enough glue or pushing down too hard to illustrate the smooth tab benefit. TBH - no one had done a back to back test to see how much force you can generate from the different types of tabs. It would be good to see.
oldkid6 I've talked to many of the men who designed some of the "old" style tabs. They have shapes and "holes" in them because at that time ALL tabs had designs and they were all following each other in the industry.
yongmin kim this is exactly the theory that everyone used in the past. It turned out wrong. Not to say the old style tabs don't work; they do. Smooth tabs work better though.
@@blackplagueadmin507 You have the logic wrong. The patterns in the tabs are specifically designed to increase the surface area for the glue to adhere to. Anyone that knows basic maths will tell you one of your flat rounded tabs that has the same diameter as a patterned tab will have less surface area. The peaks and troughs of the patterned tabs are designed specifically so the glue has more surface area to adhere to. IMO, your demonstration is grossly bias because there wasn't enough glue on the patterned tabs as you need to take into account the peaks and troughs to allow for more glue to go into them to provide the necessary pulling power. Without doing a proper pull strength test you are misinforming people that your products are better.
I appreciate your perspective, but I am VERY involved in the PDR industry and personally talk to hundreds of full time PDR techs. The smooth tabs work better. It's a fact. I don't have the logic wrong at all. The "logic" you are referring to is in reality a Theory. The theory proved wrong in this use case. Your basic maths are correct but increased surface area on one side, doesn't make it stronger on the OTHER side (the smooth painted metal)
@@jaytam1
Learning which tabs to use, how to place the tabs and how much glue to use is half of the job, your blaming tabs but its your lack of knowledge and experience that is the problem. How did everyone in PDR manage before your over priced tabs came along i wonder?
Garry, my "lack of experience" is 21 years of PDR every day, employing an entire team of pdr technicians, Personally knowing the designers and manufacturers of 70% of the glue tabs on the market, creating my own line of hot melt adhesive specifically for the PDR industry, doing 223 hours of podcasting on the PDR industry specifically, and teaching advanced skills at a seminar that over 100 veteran PDR guys attend every year. So yeah pretty unexperienced. To answer your facetious question about how anyone got along before Blackplague tabs: I was one of them! I had ten years of glue pulling before I created Blackplague. We did what we could with sub par products. We pulled something 5 times that we now pull once. We cut tabs down into different shapes to make things work. It worked....ok. Now the tabs work amazingly and Blackplague has been copied with the flat smooth face by 5 other manufacturers, so I guess it's working. Good luck w your PDR career though!
@@keithcosentino3929, do you accept that if you had applied more glue to the 'competitor's' products, there would be less of the pull tab bases being visible? do a fairer comparison to get me to part with my cash.
@@vsvnrg3263 Yes I do accept that. BUT the problem would remain: Inconsistent depths of glue between the tab and the metal, resulting in an uneven pull. You just wouldn't be able to see it on a video. You would have a hard time measuring that. The tabs have a zero questions money back guarantee man. Give them a try (if you do PDR for a living. If you're a DIY guy you won't see the advantage)
@@keithcosentino3929, you could have shot the video again once you realised you hadn't put enough glue on the base of the competitor's product. with all your years of experience, i would have thought that applying the appropriate amount of glue would be second nature. if you want people to buy your product, you should have produced a video that did not give observant, intelligent people a reason to question aspects of your presentation. try tv advertorials. the viewers can't ask you direct questions.
great video. yes i learned from it gona try them soon
GREAT VIDEO , YOU SHOULD BE WORKING FOR NISSA........THANKS...
yeah i think the prices are ridiculous, i will just sand mine down flat
if i have to, home made tabs from pretty much anything - wood, metal plastic.. and straight hot glue. works for me, but i'm no pro. otherwise push the dent. failing to see the logic here, whichever tab works for the job at hand.
Consistency has nothing to do with a tab's ability to pull metal. The tab sticks to the glue and the glue sticks to the dent. Patterned tabs cause the glue to stick to the tab more aggressively due to increased surface area. Now, what is the best possible tab? Easy, it's the one that leaves exactly half the glue on the car and half the glue on the tab. A galvanized steel tab would work far better than any plastic tab, but you'd have to preheat a galvo tab. So, where does the glue stay with whatever tab you use? That's the surface that has better glue adhesion. It's usually the car body that adheres better, right? That's because the car's surface isn't greasy-slick and soft like a PLASTIC tab.
so basically all you have to do is sand and lapp down your cheaper taps to a flat surface
Well, if you start with name brand tabs then maybe. Start with ebay amazon crap they will break every time.
I think the point of textured tabs is being missed. The texture increases grip from glue to tab and when you glue into a dent the glue will never be compressed to the point it dissapears. Flat surface has less traction than a textured...
Jonathan, it's not being missed at all. That's why those other tabs are designed that way, it's just wrong. In this application, it doesn't work as well.
Not a glue tab guy either. Flat glass ha ha
whoopie freaken doo
You could simply show how much weight they hold but nah
nah
Yea, they pull so hard they rip off the paint, lol. Me thinks that's a little "too" hard, but, if that's what you need, fair enough.
They do that because you're already working on a flat surface... Which is where it should pull the tab off the dent...
sale man
real 'science' is demonstrateable, measurable and 'repeatable' ex. water being self leveling and unable to 'pool ' on a ball.. you are pushing the 'tabs' in at different pressures/ angles and seem biased : ) the curved surfaces with the patterns actually have more 'surface area' contacting the glue but to be fair.. even on a flat surface, use a load cell and test them side by side... at least you can weed out the bs and show the 'facts' , even on the BP , which holds more pressure? thick or thin layer of glue...
well how about you add a little more glue and don't press so hard plus it's a flat surface I don't think you have a clue as to what you're talkin about it all
Ur not supposed to push that hard lol
yes you are
you are only pushing too hard :)
Nope. That's how they work the best.
i think you are pressing to hard