Hello mate, how can I get the tie rod to pinch like mentioned in the video? Mine was so rusted I managed the strip the “torx hole” (idk the correct term).
If you are worried about stripping the torx, I find it easier if you spend some time with a good wire brush and some penetrating oil because years of rust and crud block the threads. I use Deblock, and after cleaning the threads, I give it an extra squirt and then have a cuppa to allow it to work. You can save yourself a lot of heartache this way, but admittedly, I have had to use an angle grinder on them a few times.
how did u manage to torque your tie rod nut to 80nm using a torx wrench by the way? cos i'm assuming the tie rod ball thingy would start spinning along with the upper nut, no? do u hav some sort of 'open ended' torx wrench? thanks
@turbo4lyfe1 Hi, thank for the great question. Yeah I have an open ended torque rench it's a game changer I should have put the link in the description but will now 👍🏻
Firstly thanks for the vid/s, don't usually comment but you've gotten me out of a hole a few times 😅 That initial nut off the top of the track rod end is an absolute nightmare to crack, I've used plenty of WD but it's as stiff as hell!! Any suggestions?
@MrDirtydonuts You're very welcome and thank you for the comment! 👍🏻 Yeah its a real pain, I would try get a jack under the track rod where it meets the hub and put pressure on the actual ball and socket of the track rod. That can cause enough pressure to stop it from spinning and allows the nut to come off. If you can and able to you can use heat too that usually does the job and if all else fails plus gas penetrating fluid or cutting disc but hopefully one or all will get it off. Good luck 👍🏻
Folks, the 100 year old method is to remove the nut and sleeve, then use nail polish right on the spot where the arm meets the threads. LET IT DRY, then unscrew the old arm then screw the new one back to the nail polish line. You'll feel the resistance from it when you hit the right spot. Measuring or counting turns won't be as accurate.
Thank you soo much for these videos! They've helped me a lot and saved me a ton of money. My e60 has exhaust manifold leak and I'm not sure if I should try to fix it myself. Taking it off seems really complicated. What's your opinion of it?
@Mateja Stankovic Hi Mateja, thank you for your comment and I'm so pleased to hear that my videos have helped you and saved you a ton of money. Yeah there isn't any hiding the fact that it's quite a tricky job and those manifold bolts are evil too they love to round off, snap or just won't come out. But that all said its definitely a job that can be completed at home if you take your time and don't rush it. I would also say i would try and replacing the manifold and it's bolts and gaskets when ever possible, you don't want to go through all that hard work of taking it off and pitting it back on only to find another leak or having a bolt snap when replacing the manifold. Hope this helps a little if you have any more questions please ask im happy to help. 👍
Hi Crazy Joseph, sorry to hear about your idrive not working properly I will help you best I can. Does the screen go black/off and then come back on again?
@Crazy Joseph Yeah let's do a forced reset that should fix it. You do this by pressing the DVD eject button the CD eject button and the volume/on off button at the same time this will reset and reboot the ccc and should solve the problem.
I followed the instructions and my new tie rod end is installed. Thankyou.
@SamDanfashli Thats awesome and thank you again for the supper like! 😃👍🏻
Thanks
@SamDandashli Hi Sam! Thank you so much for your SUPPER LIKE!!!! That's extremely kind of you and I'm very grateful! 😃😃👍🏻👍🏻
Hello mate, how can I get the tie rod to pinch like mentioned in the video? Mine was so rusted I managed the strip the “torx hole” (idk the correct term).
@jayenaw28 Hello mate, if you can put pressure under the the ball joint with Jack you should be able to remove the nut 👍🏻
If you are worried about stripping the torx, I find it easier if you spend some time with a good wire brush and some penetrating oil because years of rust and crud block the threads. I use Deblock, and after cleaning the threads, I give it an extra squirt and then have a cuppa to allow it to work. You can save yourself a lot of heartache this way, but admittedly, I have had to use an angle grinder on them a few times.
The correct torque for the nut on the steering knuckle is 165nm, not 80nm. The latter is for the 4WD cars.
how did u manage to torque your tie rod nut to 80nm using a torx wrench by the way? cos i'm assuming the tie rod ball thingy would start spinning along with the upper nut, no? do u hav some sort of 'open ended' torx wrench? thanks
@turbo4lyfe1 Hi, thank for the great question. Yeah I have an open ended torque rench it's a game changer I should have put the link in the description but will now 👍🏻
@@TheBimmerFixer cool thanks! i'd like to get one too!
Firstly thanks for the vid/s, don't usually comment but you've gotten me out of a hole a few times 😅
That initial nut off the top of the track rod end is an absolute nightmare to crack, I've used plenty of WD but it's as stiff as hell!!
Any suggestions?
@MrDirtydonuts You're very welcome and thank you for the comment! 👍🏻
Yeah its a real pain, I would try get a jack under the track rod where it meets the hub and put pressure on the actual ball and socket of the track rod. That can cause enough pressure to stop it from spinning and allows the nut to come off. If you can and able to you can use heat too that usually does the job and if all else fails plus gas penetrating fluid or cutting disc but hopefully one or all will get it off. Good luck 👍🏻
Nice job.
Folks, the 100 year old method is to remove the nut and sleeve, then use nail polish right on the spot where the arm meets the threads. LET IT DRY, then unscrew the old arm then screw the new one back to the nail polish line. You'll feel the resistance from it when you hit the right spot. Measuring or counting turns won't be as accurate.
Clear and we'll explained video
@richardtaylor6322 Thank you for you comment Richard!
Thank you soo much for these videos! They've helped me a lot and saved me a ton of money. My e60 has exhaust manifold leak and I'm not sure if I should try to fix it myself. Taking it off seems really complicated. What's your opinion of it?
@Mateja Stankovic Hi Mateja, thank you for your comment and I'm so pleased to hear that my videos have helped you and saved you a ton of money. Yeah there isn't any hiding the fact that it's quite a tricky job and those manifold bolts are evil too they love to round off, snap or just won't come out. But that all said its definitely a job that can be completed at home if you take your time and don't rush it. I would also say i would try and replacing the manifold and it's bolts and gaskets when ever possible, you don't want to go through all that hard work of taking it off and pitting it back on only to find another leak or having a bolt snap when replacing the manifold. Hope this helps a little if you have any more questions please ask im happy to help. 👍
@@TheBimmerFixer Thanks for the advice!
@Mateja Stankovic You're very welcome! 👍
I have a problem with my idrive on my bmw 525...it works fine but sometimes it lags and audio turns off when am driving ..help me pls
Hi Crazy Joseph, sorry to hear about your idrive not working properly I will help you best I can. Does the screen go black/off and then come back on again?
@@TheBimmerFixer no its just stays on but the audio went off and i cant do anything but the screen is always on
@Crazy Joseph sounds like it might need a hard reset. Do you have ccc or cic idrive system?
@@TheBimmerFixer ccc
@Crazy Joseph Yeah let's do a forced reset that should fix it. You do this by pressing the DVD eject button the CD eject button and the volume/on off button at the same time this will reset and reboot the ccc and should solve the problem.