So much useful information and gives me confidence to complete a task. I trained as a mechanic back in the day of push rods. I have a 120D E82 MSport. It has reached the time where I either need to sell the car or spend money on it and keep it for life. It has done 81,000 miles and is a 10 plate. I have decided to keep it and am in the process of renewing all the parts that wear out. So far I have renewed all bushings at rear suspension and parts for front are on the way. Glow plugs, drive shafts, ABS sensors are all to follow with many other parts. I had DPF and EGR removal, swirl flaps removed and a soft map soon after I bought the car. I have also changed brake pads discs a few years ago but also now need to put some calipers in as last pad change one was way to stiff to compress. Great stuff mate, you have really helped me with your vids to see what tools I need and an insight as to what I need to do. Top man.
It may be different for my car (F30), but there was a counter hold on the steering rack that should be held when installing the new tie rod. I imagine this is to prevent putting too much stress on the steering rack while you attach the new inner tie rod.
Thanks so much for identifying the wrench size needed to crack the inner tie rod loose! Thats exactly what I've been searching for hours on the internet for...
Thanks for this one George, just finished swapping in new febi bilstein track rod assemblies on the E91 which was practically identical. I wasn't as lucky as you with the track rod end nuts I ended up cutting them off (they started with the impact wrench, then I got the torx bit in but half way off they just seized and rounded the torx out). Also needed a jack on my spanner at the steering rack end to get those moved! A tip for anyone else on this one, when fitting the track rod assembly to the steering rack you'll want to get some movement through the ball joint first so you can get it into place and turn it to thread once under the car. Out of the box it's far too stiff and you won't get enough of a turn on the thread for it to grab. You may also find it useful on the driver side to turn the steering wheel back a few turns when fitting the new assembly so you've more room to thread it in. Again, thanks George!
You are correct about the sized track rod ends making life difficult for the wheel alignment, they had to heat up one of mine to get it to turn, That spanner is a inch and seven sixteenths
Had to have them changed on my other half’s 125; took it for an alignment and they they were seized solid. Was happy to pay because I didn’t fancy battling them on the drive in January when it was sodding cold. I’ve always found my BMW’s to be pretty sensitive to a good alignment. I’ve also found not all garages are a capable of doing a good job but at the end of the day it’s inky as good as the guy doing it.
@@GeorgeAusters and as if my magic, need to change them on my 130. I fitted M3 LCA’s at the weekend and it looks like the track rods are seized solid. Joy.
When you do the suspension upgrade, maybe you can do the e9x m3 control arm upgrade while you're at it :D . Am looking to do it on mine as I have to let it be alligned anyway in the next couple of weeks..
Great that you're building such a good catalogue, George. Timeless references for repairs and maintenance! I'm about to do this with the E61, pretty much the same by the looks. The complete Lemforder kit came with two 90g sachets of c.v grease. Would this go around the inner balljoint before the boot goes on? It has some grease but apparently it is mostly for storage. Cheers!
@@GeorgeAusters thanks for that, yes it's greased... confused as to why the kit came with more grease. Ah well... I had it on jack stands yesterday and gave up before I started! Lol...I'll pay for this one with cash instead of my body this time I think 😂
Hello great video .....might i ask have you heard of a problem whereby the front suspension on a 1 series made a knocking sound when it gets very hot i ask because recently during the hot weather i have noticed a knocking sound and also felt it through the steering wheel i have had the car checked over and nothing can be found but through searches on forums some people highlight my very same problem and the put it down to the tierods i was wondering if you had come across this problem and could sort of recommend which brand of tierod is better when the ambient temperature is cool there is no problem i recently drove 190 miles non stop at night when it was cool and the problem never occurred thanks for any help .....Steve
Hi. Did you solve? I have the same problem since years with my f20 2017, when driving 1 hour in hot season (north Italy let's say 30°C). Official BMW workshop says it's this spherical joint and asked me 830€ to repair!!!! Crazy!!! The warranty doesn't apply, so I payed 700€ of warranty extention for nothing!!
@@AndreaEXC no i never got it sorted when the cooler weather came it kinda goes out of your mind because the fault isnt there but i knew it would be back come the summer so i traded the car in and got a citroen if i could have found a definitve repair i would have had it done but it seemed no one could agree what the true problem was i wish you good luck
if your steering wheels not straight when you go to replace the tie rod do u have to put it into the straight position for the wheel to stay straight after the install or does just showing the same amount of threds from the tie rod on both ends cause the steering wheel to go into the straight position
Hi George, I’ve mentioned this before but is it possible to bring the second DISA to life on my N52? 2.5i? Only putting out 177bhp atm. Software is the biggest stumbling block I think, cars perfect spec and more powerful version costs 2x
120 £ is crazy. Last time I changed tires all 4 wheel alligment was 50£. It was bit expensive as at the shop they got new hunter wheel alligment and I was happy to pay it 😁
Ive just watched ur vid again as the neighbour has asked me to look at changing the outer rod ends on his 120d(E82). I take it the bolt holding the outer to inner is not on tight ?? Should be no probs removing ?
George please note the spanner size you used is an inch and seven sixteenths! Not seventeen sixteenths as you said. But I appreciate you never worked with AF sizes LOL.
The video I was waiting for. Cant wait for water pump change...u r so lucky u don't have xi version. Anyway looks like suspension overhaul has started 😅. I am currently going to change struts as I have suspicion that they are shot dead. I am changing ball joints on the front each 40 k kms because roads in Czech is like emental cheese 🤬. There is kit for front suspension for a pretty good price which save a lot of money. Any advice how to check suspensions springs? I have heard that if the spring is not broken or somehow mechanically damaged they last almost forever. Thanks for inspiration George and keep doing brilliant work mate 👏👌
Yep waterpump and thermostat have been ordered! In my experience, BMW springs a very good and last a long time. They only NEED replacing when they snap but you’ll notice them go rusty before that👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters here it's the same. Mine tops are koni special active with factory springs. Or bilstein b6 or b8 with factory springs. Already went thru a lot of videos abt koni, b6, b8 and I am personally for koni 😌. I have and idea mate...as we both are planning to do the struts, let me know your choice ( if it's abt koni vs bilstein) and the one that left will be mine choice and we can share the feelings even we have different series and chassis 🙌😅 edit: we can find also others to make a real tests with more struts producers 🤣
@@GeorgeAusters You did this only on you cars, or as a hobby? You learn it like a education for few years? Most of the Mechanics in Germany who learnt it right, did it wrong to these days like you. Its sad. Short Version: The ball pin head is laying in a plastic plain bearing, its not constructed to be twisted fast, if you do i with a impact tool, it will be twisted fast, no matter way you cant stop this. Exatly at this moment you pre-damage the platic plain bearing and this will cost you thousand miles of damage. This means a normal TIE ROD hold for example 100 000km this will only hold 60-80000 km, i promise you ;). All things like Tie Rods or things with ball pin head, has to be mounted correct, but not with a impact tool. And no one can prove that you did it wrong, all mechanics do it wrong. You can say.. the cheap stuff from the company..not my fault.. Greetings from Germany.
Why don’t you unsieze them before the tracking. In theory yes, new steering components will give you a more precise wheel alignment but you do realise that not only most garages won’t actually do the job properly (tyre pressures and pre weight the vehicle) but also as soon as you leave the garage the roads of britain are so bad that after a few 100miles your tracking will be out anyway. I have been aligning suspension for over 15 years and you don’t have to be as o.c.d with it. My tyres wear even and I can get over 5years/ 15k out of mine! ;)
Not worth the effort, may as well replace for new parts. I've never had an issue with my cars when taking them for allignment and all my tyres wear evenly
This mate is one of my hero mechanics here why I became a full-blown car-part guru.
🙌🏼
….right
For E87:
Tire rod assembly to steering rack: ZF 110nm / TRW 100nm
Ball joint to wheel hub: 165nm
Track rod to rod end: 40nm
So much useful information and gives me confidence to complete a task. I trained as a mechanic back in the day of push rods. I have a 120D E82 MSport. It has reached the time where I either need to sell the car or spend money on it and keep it for life. It has done 81,000 miles and is a 10 plate. I have decided to keep it and am in the process of renewing all the parts that wear out. So far I have renewed all bushings at rear suspension and parts for front are on the way. Glow plugs, drive shafts, ABS sensors are all to follow with many other parts. I had DPF and EGR removal, swirl flaps removed and a soft map soon after I bought the car. I have also changed brake pads discs a few years ago but also now need to put some calipers in as last pad change one was way to stiff to compress. Great stuff mate, you have really helped me with your vids to see what tools I need and an insight as to what I need to do. Top man.
It may be different for my car (F30), but there was a counter hold on the steering rack that should be held when installing the new tie rod. I imagine this is to prevent putting too much stress on the steering rack while you attach the new inner tie rod.
Thanks so much for identifying the wrench size needed to crack the inner tie rod loose! Thats exactly what I've been searching for hours on the internet for...
What size did he say it was??
@@e82_ron I don’t remember bro watch the video 😭
He said 17/16ths of an inch which is as near as makes no difference 27mm
Thanks for this one George, just finished swapping in new febi bilstein track rod assemblies on the E91 which was practically identical. I wasn't as lucky as you with the track rod end nuts I ended up cutting them off (they started with the impact wrench, then I got the torx bit in but half way off they just seized and rounded the torx out). Also needed a jack on my spanner at the steering rack end to get those moved! A tip for anyone else on this one, when fitting the track rod assembly to the steering rack you'll want to get some movement through the ball joint first so you can get it into place and turn it to thread once under the car. Out of the box it's far too stiff and you won't get enough of a turn on the thread for it to grab. You may also find it useful on the driver side to turn the steering wheel back a few turns when fitting the new assembly so you've more room to thread it in. Again, thanks George!
You are correct about the sized track rod ends making life difficult for the wheel alignment, they had to heat up one of mine to get it to turn, That spanner is a inch and seven sixteenths
Yep very very common on cars of this age... just checked and you are absolutely right haha!
Just to add a correction for future viewers, the wrench for the steering rack end is actually 1 and 7/16ths of an inch.
Brilliant George! Front end work intimidates me, but this really helps.
It’s all nuts and bolts at the end of the day Jon, and thanks for the channel donation again. Much appreciated🙌🏼
Had to have them changed on my other half’s 125; took it for an alignment and they they were seized solid. Was happy to pay because I didn’t fancy battling them on the drive in January when it was sodding cold.
I’ve always found my BMW’s to be pretty sensitive to a good alignment. I’ve also found not all garages are a capable of doing a good job but at the end of the day it’s inky as good as the guy doing it.
Yep very very common to happen. Don’t worry I’ve been there in the freezing cold rain myself and it’s not fun! Lol
@@GeorgeAusters and as if my magic, need to change them on my 130. I fitted M3 LCA’s at the weekend and it looks like the track rods are seized solid. Joy.
Low profile tyres are more sensitive to tracking: they are stiffer (as in, they develop a given lateral force at a lower slip angle than taller tyres)
I did the exact same replacement after finishing it up the power steering wont work what might be the reason..? Plz looking for some advice 🙏🏻
Excellent closeup shots....thank you for another great video!
Glad you appreciate it man🙌🏼
Thanx ! I saw a worn track rod end on the SLK project so will change both. Kwik fit havent opened here in Spain yet so i will use the local guy !!
Good luck!
When you do the suspension upgrade, maybe you can do the e9x m3 control arm upgrade while you're at it :D . Am looking to do it on mine as I have to let it be alligned anyway in the next couple of weeks..
I’m thinking about it but then it will give you excessive negative camber and mean your tyres will wear quicker👍🏻
What torque spec is the clamping bolt on rod end? The one that tightens and clamps against the alignment thread on inner tie rod?
Think I'm gonna buy my next used car from George lol ... won't need to replace anything.
The 130i is actually up for sale now 👌🏻
Great that you're building such a good catalogue, George. Timeless references for repairs and maintenance! I'm about to do this with the E61, pretty much the same by the looks. The complete Lemforder kit came with two 90g sachets of c.v grease. Would this go around the inner balljoint before the boot goes on? It has some grease but apparently it is mostly for storage. Cheers!
Here is when I did it on my E60: ua-cam.com/video/U5j9pyFZDdo/v-deo.html
The ball joints should come filled with grease already!
@@GeorgeAusters thanks for that, yes it's greased... confused as to why the kit came with more grease. Ah well... I had it on jack stands yesterday and gave up before I started! Lol...I'll pay for this one with cash instead of my body this time I think 😂
Hello great video .....might i ask have you heard of a problem whereby the front suspension on a 1 series made a knocking sound when it gets very hot
i ask because recently during the hot weather i have noticed a knocking sound and also felt it through the steering wheel
i have had the car checked over and nothing can be found
but through searches on forums some people highlight my very same problem
and the put it down to the tierods
i was wondering if you had come across this problem and could sort of recommend which brand of tierod is better
when the ambient temperature is cool there is no problem
i recently drove 190 miles non stop at night when it was cool and the problem never occurred
thanks for any help .....Steve
Hi. Did you solve? I have the same problem since years with my f20 2017, when driving 1 hour in hot season (north Italy let's say 30°C). Official BMW workshop says it's this spherical joint and asked me 830€ to repair!!!! Crazy!!! The warranty doesn't apply, so I payed 700€ of warranty extention for nothing!!
@@AndreaEXC no i never got it sorted
when the cooler weather came it kinda goes out of your mind because the fault isnt there
but i knew it would be back come the summer so i traded the car in and got a citroen if i could have found a definitve repair i would have had it done but it seemed no one could agree what the true problem was
i wish you good luck
@@stevelarkin3285 thank you anyway! I think I will do the job by my self buying a good not official spare part... Less then a quarter of that price
if your steering wheels not straight when you go to replace the tie rod do u have to put it into the straight position for the wheel to stay straight after the install or does just showing the same amount of threds from the tie rod on both ends cause the steering wheel to go into the straight position
Hi George, I’ve mentioned this before but is it possible to bring the second DISA to life on my N52? 2.5i?
Only putting out 177bhp atm.
Software is the biggest stumbling block I think, cars perfect spec and more powerful version costs 2x
120 £ is crazy. Last time I changed tires all 4 wheel alligment was 50£. It was bit expensive as at the shop they got new hunter wheel alligment and I was happy to pay it 😁
£120 is for 8 visits mate, so only £15 per time😬
@@GeorgeAusters sorry somehow missed its for 8 visits. Then I am paying lot here in Czech😅. But its only two times in a year so no big deal
Ive just watched ur vid again as the neighbour has asked me to look at changing the outer rod ends on his 120d(E82).
I take it the bolt holding the outer to inner is not on tight ?? Should be no probs removing ?
I’d recommend replacing the whole assembled
Great video's George.
Thanks 👍
Would you say febi bilstein for the tie rods and suspension parts is an okay replacement?
Yes I’ve not an any issues with Febi parts👍🏻
George please note the spanner size you used is an inch and seven sixteenths! Not seventeen sixteenths as you said. But I appreciate you never worked with AF sizes LOL.
Yeah I noticed after haha!
The video I was waiting for. Cant wait for water pump change...u r so lucky u don't have xi version. Anyway looks like suspension overhaul has started 😅. I am currently going to change struts as I have suspicion that they are shot dead. I am changing ball joints on the front each 40 k kms because roads in Czech is like emental cheese 🤬. There is kit for front suspension for a pretty good price which save a lot of money. Any advice how to check suspensions springs? I have heard that if the spring is not broken or somehow mechanically damaged they last almost forever. Thanks for inspiration George and keep doing brilliant work mate 👏👌
Yep waterpump and thermostat have been ordered!
In my experience, BMW springs a very good and last a long time. They only NEED replacing when they snap but you’ll notice them go rusty before that👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters thanks a ton George 🙏👍! Time to order koni suspension strut set 👌
I was thinking Koni or Bilstein!
@@GeorgeAusters here it's the same. Mine tops are koni special active with factory springs. Or bilstein b6 or b8 with factory springs. Already went thru a lot of videos abt koni, b6, b8 and I am personally for koni 😌. I have and idea mate...as we both are planning to do the struts, let me know your choice ( if it's abt koni vs bilstein) and the one that left will be mine choice and we can share the feelings even we have different series and chassis 🙌😅 edit: we can find also others to make a real tests with more struts producers 🤣
From ISTA:
Important!
Do not release track rod end from swivel bearing with impact tool.
Why not?
@@GeorgeAusters You did this only on you cars, or as a hobby?
You learn it like a education for few years?
Most of the Mechanics in Germany who learnt it right, did it wrong to these days like you. Its sad.
Short Version:
The ball pin head is laying in a plastic plain bearing, its not constructed to be twisted fast, if you do i with a impact tool, it will be twisted fast, no matter way you cant stop this. Exatly at this moment you pre-damage the platic plain bearing and this will cost you thousand miles of damage.
This means a normal TIE ROD hold for example 100 000km this will only hold 60-80000 km, i promise you ;).
All things like Tie Rods or things with ball pin head, has to be mounted correct, but not with a impact tool.
And no one can prove that you did it wrong, all mechanics do it wrong.
You can say.. the cheap stuff from the company..not my fault..
Greetings from Germany.
@15:45 that camber tho 😂
😂😂
Did they give you nitrogen for your tyres whilst you were there? :p. Excellent video as always!.
Hahaha not this time! Cheers as always mate👍🏻
Can i know what s the size of the wrench from 9:39??? But in milimeters
Just use a pipe wrench
Which 1 series is this? F20?
e87
How much is the approx labour cost for replacing these at a garage? supplying parts myself.
Official BMW workshop in north Italy asked me 830€ (spares+ work)
The wrench "King Dick" did a good job 😆
Certainly did!
I don’t mine are mint 😂 I gather they have been changed as I’m at 160k and no steering play or pull over camber whatsoever
Why don’t you unsieze them before the tracking.
In theory yes, new steering components will give you a more precise wheel alignment but you do realise that not only most garages won’t actually do the job properly (tyre pressures and pre weight the vehicle) but also as soon as you leave the garage the roads of britain are so bad that after a few 100miles your tracking will be out anyway.
I have been aligning suspension for over 15 years and you don’t have to be as o.c.d with it. My tyres wear even and I can get over 5years/ 15k out of mine! ;)
Not worth the effort, may as well replace for new parts.
I've never had an issue with my cars when taking them for allignment and all my tyres wear evenly
Lol. That’s the difference between a mechanic and a fitter ;)
Yep at some point I need to investigate the steering rack and find that clunk when putting the car to fall lock. Electric steering.
Yep I’d say your track rod joint or track rod end ball joint👍🏻
How not to replace