I have your same set up I deleted all my vacuum lines but the two to the distributor and mine just flat out will not run right it tuns terrible. How did you get yours to work and why did you take the choke assemblies off the side
It's very important that you block off all unused vacuum lines. If you have disconnected the "fuel cut solenoid" on the side of the carb, it will not idle. If you left it but disconnected the vacuum switch on the passenger fender, it will cut out above 2200 RPM. The vacuum advancers on the distributor should not be required to idle, so you can disconnect those for testing at idle if you want. I removed the choke as it did not work so well, and wanted to get rid of the electrical connections to the choke heater. The manual choke works fine for my needs.
That is blocking off the "outer vent control valve" which opens up the carb bowl to a charcoal canister when the truck is off. The FCS is facing the passenger side firewall and has two wires going to it. It's replaced with a small bolt.
does it pull cold with no aap? bolt in the fuel cut solendoid? no dieseling? I did the same thing except a vacuum source to the top choke diaphram and a T to the top of the prong BVSV so that switches when warm to break the cold idle.
I live in a mild climate, but in the winter time around freezing temps it would stumble for a few minutes if you stomped on it. I was able to gently open the throttle and avoid this. After it warms up for ~5 minutes it is fine (and the BVSV would have isolated the AAP anyway by that point so it's out of the equation) Yes, a bolt in the FCS. I actually had to do this once I removed the vacuum switch on the PS fender. There's a deceleration fuel cut system that was causing it to stumble on the highway. It would sometimes diesel, but if the idle speed was adjusted properly there were no issues. I would normally keep the idle around 650 or 700 and it was perfectly fine. On warmer days the idle will increase so I was having to adjust it every few weeks. Not a big deal, especially because my idle screw was loose enough to turn by hand! The manual choke works so much better than the automatic one ever did. I found that if the temperature was above 50 or so, just pumping the gas about 3 times with no choke was sufficient to have it fire right up and run great.
mct75 that helped. thanks a lot. I was thinking about manual choke conversion just for fun but sounds like having a bit more control would definitely be ideal. right now I can't get the gas to lift the float up to the sight unless I have my aftermarket electric pump straight to the carb. two stock manual pumps I have seem to be a bit weak. however the electric is a bit too strong at 5-9 psi... finally going to put a T after the fuel filter and back into the existing return line and stop using the stock pump altogether. if I get my power without hesitation then I'll know it was fuel delivery to the carb
It sounds like you might need to adjust the tabs on the float. That sets the level. At idle it only takes like 0.25 PSI to keep the fuel in the bowl. If you're having to jack up the pressure, the level might be too low and you're just relying on fuel forcing itself past the float needle. Definitely get that sorted before you start adjusting anything else.
mct75 very interesting insight. it'd explain why my dads iffy on my weak pump idea. thats not a lot of pressure and I know the stock one I have is pushing more than that so... the bowl should fill unless that tab is not calibrated.
For reference, if my bowl was empty I could just take the fuel line off, and pour gas down it and the bowl would fill up from the gravity alone. If the level isn't right when the engine is off/idling it probably isn't the pump. You can always take the line off and crank the motor over, just see what comes out. Be careful though.
Yep, the secondary butterfly was fused shut so I removed the linkages and some of the choke crap for that side. Engine ran great until about 3000 RPM then started to fall off (without the secondary it was hurting for air) but you don't need to be redlining a 30 year old truck anyway.
@@mct75 Cool. I have done very similar and put also put a block plate over the EVAP port as well as a block plate for the AAP and Choke Breaker. Still using the electric choke though. Great to have it simplified. :)
@@james4878 Nice! I was amazed at how little of an impact most of the ancillary systems have on how the engine runs. The AAP on mine had a ruptured diaphragm so I blocked it and it accelerated fine once it warmed up for a few minutes.
@@mct75 Yeah exactly! Just needs to warm up and then you're good to go! The fast idle even works perfectly without the automatic releasing mechanisms as you can just turn that off with a little bump of the gas pedal. :)
I don't have the truck anymore, but the only lines you need are the two that go to the distributor. Learn what each vacuum system does and how it interacts with the engine, then remove it all and plug everything except those two distributor lines.
@@mct75 I need some ideas, on how to go about getting rid of vacuum lines that I no longer need for emission, I'm doing this one 1987 Mazda b2200 5 speed.
@@mosesandrews4381 Hey man, I don't know about your truck in particular, but start by identifying where every vacuum line goes and what it goes to. Chances are, you can remove nearly every single vacuum line on the truck and it will still run. The distributor may have a vacuum advancer (the 22r has two actually) and maybe a fuel pressure regulator that are critical and not emissions related. Identify each component with a vacuum line and go from there. EGR will be a big one (lots of vacuum lines and a connection to the exhaust) and maybe a smog pump. (big ugly belt driven thing with large air hoses) Good Luck!
Hola lo siento pero no tengo el camión nunca más. Asegúrese de que todos los pasajes estén limpios y que los enlaces se muevan libremente, lo que solucionó el mío.
Dude, you’re the man
I have your same set up I deleted all my vacuum lines but the two to the distributor and mine just flat out will not run right it tuns terrible. How did you get yours to work and why did you take the choke assemblies off the side
It's very important that you block off all unused vacuum lines. If you have disconnected the "fuel cut solenoid" on the side of the carb, it will not idle. If you left it but disconnected the vacuum switch on the passenger fender, it will cut out above 2200 RPM. The vacuum advancers on the distributor should not be required to idle, so you can disconnect those for testing at idle if you want.
I removed the choke as it did not work so well, and wanted to get rid of the electrical connections to the choke heater. The manual choke works fine for my needs.
mct75 the fuel cut is the thing on the side you made a small plate for? With the three little machine screws in it
That is blocking off the "outer vent control valve" which opens up the carb bowl to a charcoal canister when the truck is off. The FCS is facing the passenger side firewall and has two wires going to it. It's replaced with a small bolt.
Mine wont atay running with both flaps open like that. Got some black smoke blowing out the pipe too
does it pull cold with no aap? bolt in the fuel cut solendoid? no dieseling? I did the same thing except a vacuum source to the top choke diaphram and a T to the top of the prong BVSV so that switches when warm to break the cold idle.
I live in a mild climate, but in the winter time around freezing temps it would stumble for a few minutes if you stomped on it. I was able to gently open the throttle and avoid this. After it warms up for ~5 minutes it is fine (and the BVSV would have isolated the AAP anyway by that point so it's out of the equation)
Yes, a bolt in the FCS. I actually had to do this once I removed the vacuum switch on the PS fender. There's a deceleration fuel cut system that was causing it to stumble on the highway. It would sometimes diesel, but if the idle speed was adjusted properly there were no issues. I would normally keep the idle around 650 or 700 and it was perfectly fine. On warmer days the idle will increase so I was having to adjust it every few weeks. Not a big deal, especially because my idle screw was loose enough to turn by hand!
The manual choke works so much better than the automatic one ever did. I found that if the temperature was above 50 or so, just pumping the gas about 3 times with no choke was sufficient to have it fire right up and run great.
mct75 that helped. thanks a lot. I was thinking about manual choke conversion just for fun but sounds like having a bit more control would definitely be ideal. right now I can't get the gas to lift the float up to the sight unless I have my aftermarket electric pump straight to the carb. two stock manual pumps I have seem to be a bit weak. however the electric is a bit too strong at 5-9 psi... finally going to put a T after the fuel filter and back into the existing return line and stop using the stock pump altogether. if I get my power without hesitation then I'll know it was fuel delivery to the carb
It sounds like you might need to adjust the tabs on the float. That sets the level. At idle it only takes like 0.25 PSI to keep the fuel in the bowl. If you're having to jack up the pressure, the level might be too low and you're just relying on fuel forcing itself past the float needle. Definitely get that sorted before you start adjusting anything else.
mct75 very interesting insight. it'd explain why my dads iffy on my weak pump idea. thats not a lot of pressure and I know the stock one I have is pushing more than that so... the bowl should fill unless that tab is not calibrated.
For reference, if my bowl was empty I could just take the fuel line off, and pour gas down it and the bowl would fill up from the gravity alone. If the level isn't right when the engine is off/idling it probably isn't the pump. You can always take the line off and crank the motor over, just see what comes out. Be careful though.
Hola yo tengo una 86 y falla el carburador le tapaste los demás y Madame son esas dos mangueras
Looks like a lot of the linkages have been removed?
Yep, the secondary butterfly was fused shut so I removed the linkages and some of the choke crap for that side. Engine ran great until about 3000 RPM then started to fall off (without the secondary it was hurting for air) but you don't need to be redlining a 30 year old truck anyway.
@@mct75 Cool. I have done very similar and put also put a block plate over the EVAP port as well as a block plate for the AAP and Choke Breaker. Still using the electric choke though. Great to have it simplified. :)
@@james4878 Nice! I was amazed at how little of an impact most of the ancillary systems have on how the engine runs. The AAP on mine had a ruptured diaphragm so I blocked it and it accelerated fine once it warmed up for a few minutes.
@@mct75 Yeah exactly! Just needs to warm up and then you're good to go! The fast idle even works perfectly without the automatic releasing mechanisms as you can just turn that off with a little bump of the gas pedal. :)
I thought this was going to be easy but my god what a nightmare
You might have better luck asking for help in this thread, they are the experts: www.yotatech.com/f114/22r-desmog-tutorial-264405/
Can you post a video of all the lines you plugged off
I don't have the truck anymore, but the only lines you need are the two that go to the distributor. Learn what each vacuum system does and how it interacts with the engine, then remove it all and plug everything except those two distributor lines.
@@mct75 well I have a all stock 22r with a Asian carb and I don't want to buy a Weber but I want to try to delete all the emissions shit
good video when you totally show your truck?
plis
You perv! How could you finger that poor innocent Yota?
*DISGUSTING*
Me gasta algo de gasolina me uma las bujías pero es de gasolina cuántas vueltas de doy al de la toma de aire a la esprea
X que mi carburador se vacía de la cuba
Why does it sound like you have such a bad vacuum leak
That's just the sound carburetors make, at idle the throttle plate has a lot of suction
What's the purpose of blocking off that canister
It allows me to throw the charcoal canister in the garbage
@@mct75 I need some ideas, on how to go about getting rid of vacuum lines that I no longer need for emission, I'm doing this one 1987 Mazda b2200 5 speed.
@@mosesandrews4381 Hey man, I don't know about your truck in particular, but start by identifying where every vacuum line goes and what it goes to. Chances are, you can remove nearly every single vacuum line on the truck and it will still run. The distributor may have a vacuum advancer (the 22r has two actually) and maybe a fuel pressure regulator that are critical and not emissions related. Identify each component with a vacuum line and go from there. EGR will be a big one (lots of vacuum lines and a connection to the exhaust) and maybe a smog pump. (big ugly belt driven thing with large air hoses) Good Luck!
@@mct75 goodness how can I get rid of my egr valve on a 87 b2200
@@mct75 Also can I install a gas line from my efi pump straight into the carb.
I wait your answer
Did u ever figure it out?!!!!
Yep, I sprayed it down with carb cleaner and it works great now!
I've looked everywhere and can't fone shit
Hola buenas tardes tengo la misma falla
Hola lo siento pero no tengo el camión nunca más. Asegúrese de que todos los pasajes estén limpios y que los enlaces se muevan libremente, lo que solucionó el mío.
I have two 😳
I did too, one is for the carb bowl and one is for the gas tank. Both were removed.
I did not understand the significance of this video.
It's an insignificant video.
Wtf