How to Replace Spark Plugs/Coils Chrysler 3.6L Pentastar V6
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- Опубліковано 19 лип 2024
- Step by step instructional video on how to replace spark plugs and coils on a Chrysler Pacifica 3.6L Pentastar V6
Valid for all Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Ram 3.6L V6 - Авто та транспорт
Its videos like this that are simple, short, to the point and step you thru! Great job. No awkward pauses or wth moments. Keep up the good work!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for this video!! We had either a bad spark plug or coil pack and were able to change them all out ourselves for under $75. I cannot imagine what this would have cost us at the dealership. I would never have attempted this without your video. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped! Thanks for leaving a nice comment 👍
Under 75$ how? The plugs are 20$ each and the boots are 75$ each?
@@wacoodude9436plugs range from 8-that much lol I got mine for 13 dollars a piece platinum plugs
Fantastic DIY video, step by step and very thorough with footnotes and torque specs. Changing the spark plugs on this car involves quite some work, but this video provides the confidence one can do it. Thank you for taking the time and putting the effort to help others. Really appreciate it.
You’re welcome, I’m glad you are finding value in my videos.
I am. The videos are great. Btw, I forgot to ask the interval service for the spark plugs, 30-40k miles? I might just replace the oil cooler with an aluminum unit then.. Our car has 35k miles, might just be about to fail..
@@Mike_44 100k for the spark plugs, they last quite a while. Also, you should have quite a few miles left on your oil cooler too.
@@TheLawnEngineer Awesome. Thanks for the reply.
Thanks to you successful swap of the bank 2 camshaft position sensor P0345 . Trickiest part for me was the right bracket and getting the EGR valve off the studs. Cheers!
Awesome job, glad I was able to help.
Generally speaking, I liked your video and I completed the job of plugs and coils in an afternoon on my 2017 Pacifica. However, you really glossed over some stuff on the righthand side (as viewed) that was very troublesome. It was very difficult to get the EGR valve off over those studs and the hose connection. One of the studs by that hidden bracket was covered by a push-on wire restraint making it difficult to see what was keeping the plenum from releasing. Your video made that EGR removal look like a snap, which it was definitely not.
Thanks for checking in. Your feedback is fair, that particular nut for the EGR valve is a pain in the butt.
@@TheLawnEngineer Nice video. Greatly appreciate the nice and clear footage and helpful voice over. I had to remove the whole bracket with the hidden nut by also unscrewing the two lower bolts. Loosened the two nuts holding the brake booster pump to allow for wiggle room to get the bracket out. Keep these videos coming please! Thank you!
My sentiments exactly! Over all the video was good and informative, however that EGR almost made me quit the whole job and have my brother in law finish the job. I eventually was able to disconnect it completely to get it fully out via whatever hose it connects to. I had to watch another video to make sure I wasn't messing anything up.
这个教程太棒了 我已经看了3遍 关键的步骤和细节都在视频里展现出来了 内容非常清晰 哪怕第一语言不是英文的观众（我自己）也完全理解 等天气没那么冷了就开始动手换火花塞 谢谢视频博主！
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for checking in!
thanks, i couldn't find any video in germany. You showed and explained it so well. Thanks
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
His videos are excellent and provide the details that you need to see in order to do the task. I have had plugs for my pacific for some time now, but have not felt confident about doing the change. But his video is perfect. Really, really like how he shows things!
I’m glad you find value in my content.
Had a P0305 cylinder 5 misfire code. Your video was helpful. I replaced the spark plug and ignition coil and seems to be good as new. I since 5 is on back row, I didn’t remove manifold to save time.
Nice work! The back row makes life easier.
Thank you so much for this video, saved me 800 bucks
Glad I could help
Really concise and educational. Thanks
You’re welcome, thanks for checking in.
Man, You are my hero. Thank you!
Glad to help! Thanks for checking in.
Awesome! 🙏🤝 your videos are invaluable .
You’re welcome 👍
Very detailed and concise. I appreciate that!
Glad it was helpful!
0:27 0:27 al aww😊 0:27 😊lolp😊
Bp
😊😊😊😊😊😊
Excellent video, thank you!
You are welcome!
That’s really helpful video! All details are shown!
All other - sucks👍
Glad it was helpful!
Made this an easy job , thank you!!
You’re welcome! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@TheLawnEngineer of course. I always do when it is a useful video and makes my life easier lol.
Thanks for the video tutorial. 👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for leaving a comment.
Thanks so much for this. My reluctance to tackle this project revolves around the various wire and tubing connectors. I appreciate your comments on how to remove the air temperature sensor (at about 1 minute into the video). At 5:14 you use a small flathead to pry up on a red connector, but then explain that the red part can be pressed down while pulling out on the tube to free it. True? It looks to me like one really does need to pry up on it (and then press down when reinstalling). Also, is there anything unique about removing the electrical connectors on the throttle body side (at around 6:15 into video)? I'm pretrified of damaging a connection. Once again, thank you for this and your other Pacifica videos. Very valuable.
If you have some time and patience, you can get this done.
At 5:14, no need to pry...pushing down will release and allow reassembly.
Electrical connections can be a bit tricky but they should all release with a gentle wiggle if you have the release catch properly depressed. The trick is taking your time and don't force them.
Great video sir! 👍🏾👍🏾
Appreciate it!
Awesome video, thanks
I’m glad you found some value in this video! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Nice work!
Thank for the nice comment.
Amazing video. I'm going to tackle this tomorrow.
Why did you change the plugs out?
Thank you. I changed them out just for this video. I had a few people requesting this video, so I went ahead and changed mine a little early.
Thanks!
You're welcome, thanks for checking in.
Maybe I missed it did you use Champion 9417 Iridium plugs? Book calls for that I believe
I'm sorry, I don't remember the exact brand, but I used iridium plugs.
Great video! Any thoughts on Bosch vs NGK for pligs and coils?
Thank you. In my experience spark plugs either work or they don’t. The only trouble I have had is with some specialty short plugs I used in a small block Chevy with headers.
In over 25 years of mechanic work, NGK by far is my go to. I will use Bosch if NGK is not available and I need plugs quick. I won't use Champion or Autolite. I feel, in my opinion, that NGK is the hottest burn and therefore gives you better MPG's.
ok just making sure that i will not have to replace a intake gasket since you took it off? i am used to older rigs when you take them off its wise to replace the gasket. never worked on one that had a plastic intake. Is there a difference?
The gasket(s) on these intakes are a bit different. They are individual silicone pieces that do not stick and rip/tear. They can dry out over time and compress but in general can be reused.
I didn't have any issues with reusing but it isn't a bad idea to replace them. I've also replaced the oil cooler, which is under the lower intake manifold, so I replaced them all at that time.
Video here: ua-cam.com/video/GauBMDckIKE/v-deo.html
Gracias
You’re welcome!
Where that hiding braket bolt at I can’t find it anywhere, I found the nut but not the bolt
It's right in the same area, very hard to get it on video.
Great video. One issue - I can't for the life of me figure out how you get the wire connector to disconnect from the coil like you do in the video. I use a small screwdriver (like you) to "click" the little gray "lock tab" but absolutely can't get the connector to budge on 1, 3 or 5 so far...
You should actually press down with your thumb and pull the latch back at the same time. If you get it correctly it’s like magic but you have to get the hang of it.
I had to take it a step further. Carefully pull the white plastic tab outwards a tad until it clicks in the unlocked position, and then press downwards on said tab with your thumb while using a plastic trim tool to carefully pry the plug off from behind. My thumb got sore, so I used a small narrow-bladed screw driver to carefully hold the white tab down while using the trim tool to lightly pry the plug off. As with all connectors, easy does it!! If you are only changing out your spark plugs and not the coils, there are a couple of YT videos that show you can simply pull the coil pack up and out of the spark plug opening without the need to disconnect the coil wire, but if you pull it out using too much force you might possibly damage the connection.
Would you happen to know what the gap should be? I bought o.e. for mine and they are at .024 and I'm not sure if that's right.
I'm seeing an OE recommended gap of 0.040 in but it varies a bit depending on the plug. Checkout www.rockauto.com it gives OE gap recommendation for a bunch of different plugs.
@@TheLawnEngineer Thank you for that.I'm not sure why they say OE and set them that tight.But I'll definitely be opening them up👍
How did you get those ignition wires off of the coil so easily?
Is there a torque sequence for the intake cover?
I recommend using a multi-step star pattern. Snug up using a star pattern and then torque using a star pattern.
It took me forever to find that hidden nut underneath. Mine has some black plastic over it, and I can't get to the nut. Also, I need step by step video for all the connectors. I've broken 3 already. They're brittle and too difficult to understand!
That nut is a pain to get at, and filming it seemed impossible. Also, there are some other decent videos out there on the electrical connectors. There is a little trick to each of them and if you get it, they separate easily.
The black plastic over the bolt is actually a support hook for the wiring harness next to it. The hidden bolt acts as a stud for the harness to connect. Try putting your fingers under the harness near the stud and the plastic should just slide off.
Do you have to replace any gaskets when putting the plenum back on?
You don’t have too. The gaskets are silicone and they won’t typically stick or tear. But it’s not a bad idea to change them out because they can become compressed over time.
Did you replace the coils via Mopar brand? Thanks.
I actually didn't replace the coils because they weren't giving me any problems but I wanted to make a video on the procedure.
👍👍👍👍👍
This version did turn out better.
At 1:25 or so there is a long horizontal cylinder that blocks the camera view of the rear coils. At 1:29 the cylinder has been removed. I can remove the plastic hoses from both ends, but have not figured out how the cylinder itself comes out. How is it connected to the engine? Do the ends snap on over hard plastic studs similar to the one holding the air box? Thx.
I’m sorry, I’ve been tacky my brain to remember how that came off but I can’t recall. I vaguely remember it just pulling off.
Ok, figured it out. Yes, each end pops straight up off a plastic stud. I pried the ends off with an angled tool without exerting much force. When done the ends just snap back on, sort of like when replacing the beauty cover on top of the engine.
1:29 I'm gonna sound dumb but that white plastic clip is all that locks the pigtail to the coil? I'm going to do plugs in our car this spring. I've tried to unplug a coil but apparently minor super sticky. Good video sir. Subscribed
The entire wire/connector assembly is much smaller than you would think it needs to be. Try using your thumb on the lock, push it down and then in...it might be easier than using a small screwdriver.
I had to take it a step further. Carefully pull the white plastic tab outwards a tad until it clicks in the unlocked position, and then press downwards on said tab with your thumb while using a plastic trim tool to carefully pry the plug off from behind. My thumb got sore, so I used a small narrow-bladed screw driver to carefully hold the white tab down while using the trim tool to lightly pry the plug off. As with all connectors, easy does it!! If you are only changing out your spark plugs and not the coils, there are a couple of YT videos that show you can simply pull the coil pack up and out of the spark plug opening without the need to disconnect the coil wire, but if you pull it out using too much force you might possibly damage the connection.
Another great video. How many miles are on those plugs.
Thank you. 85k miles on the plugs. The iridium looked in good shape but the steel around the iridium was showing signs of wear.
@@TheLawnEngineer I'm around the 87 mark and had been contemplating changing them. I think my oil filter/cooler housing is leaking so I might change that at the same time.
@@cwilks5592 that sounds like a good idea.
@@cwilks5592 what symptoms does your car have that made you think cooler housing is leaking? I know it's notorious for the plastic cooler housing to break all the time in Pentastar engine. Thank you in advance.
@@ttampi It goes through a qt of oil between changes and the bottom cover has some oil on it. I haven’t fully investigated it yet, just an assumption based on history with these motors. I figured I will get a better look at it when I do the spark plugs.
I'm getting ready to try this, just got the code saying misfire on cylinder 2, hope I don't get it apart and not back together
Oh man, too bad it’s cylinder 2. It’s a bit of a pain to get the plenum off but I’m sure you’ll be fine.
@@TheLawnEngineer well I just wanted to say THANK YOU for taking your time to make the video, I was able to get it done, took me a little longer than probably should of but was able to literally follow your video step by step and accomplish it.. just wanted to say I really appreciate it.. wife's van is back up and running, soon I'll do the others only did cylinder 2 today but now extremely confident I can do the rest.. once again thank you
@@jamessmall9002 Great job, I’m glad my video helped.
Please 🙏 can you show a front and rear differential fluid change and transfer case? Your videos have helped me maintain my Pacifica over the years thank you thank you!
Unfortunately, I don't have access to an AWD Pacifica. It should be very similar to the videos I've done with the Jeep Gladiator.
Transfer case:
ua-cam.com/video/LiFMfjZPbjw/v-deo.html
Differentials
ua-cam.com/video/4kcY_CMt3Ew/v-deo.html
my dealer changed 4 rocker arms and it still ticks. I looked at the valve covers and said how did you do that because they were never removed. They lied and I left it there and told them to fix it right. All this under warranty. They didn't think I would check like most people don't and live with the tick. The original RTV sealant was still there never touched and sand and dirt around covers
Very sad…the term stealership applies too often.
Don’t you have to replace the intake gasket when you reinstall it?😊
That style of gasket with the formed silicone is considered "reusable." That said, it's not a bad idea to replace it.
Technically it is the plenum to intake gasket. The intake to head gaskets are not reusable. Gaskets have come along way, I've spend a lot of time scrapping them off of all sorts of old V8s...the good ol' days.
🔧🔧🔧👍👍👍
You’re welcome, thanks for the comment
We have a 2018 and recently have had a local auto shop replace #5 spark plug and ignition coil twice. The check engine light came on again over the weekend. Anyone have any insight on why this is happening?
That’s unfortunate, is the code always a misfire on cylinder #5?
@@TheLawnEngineer yes each time we are getting a code that 5 is misfiring. My father in law just replaced it again tonight but I’m worried the check engine light will come on again.
The engine is giving a king of a ticking sound as well when running. Not sure if that’s normal.
@@brycewhisman2115 small ticks are normal for the valve train but louder ones can indicate a problem. There is likely something fuel or valve train related going on with cylinder #5. A fuel injector that isn’t functioning correctly could foul the spark plug .
There also could be a collapsed lifter on cylinder 5 that isn’t allowing an intake or exhaust valve to open fully.
You could also have a sealing issue on #5, a compression test would prove/disprove this.
@@TheLawnEngineer ok thanks. I’m not super handy so plan on taking it up to the dealer later this month and hoping they can fix it.
I m pretty sure I messed something up while doing this. Car hasn't run the same since the plugs were swapped.
Do you have a check engine light? If not, it’s likely a vacuum leak, missed reconnecting a hose?
good video. but don't use anti-seize on the spark plug threads. per NGK " NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."
Yeah dry is probably better, you could reduce the torque because of the lubricant but really not necessary. I gave in to the anti-seize mob…look out they might come for you.
Thanks!
You are awesome! I’m glad I was able to provide some valuable information.