Where are the large somewhat obtrusive side shelves that come as part of the Project M? I don't see them in your Project M (like where you have that seat).
They are still there under the bench and concealed in the cabinet. They are there to provide structure so I didn’t alter them other than a few fasteners.
It’s a repurposed desk lift. Found it on Craigslist. I installed it upside down so the motor is on the bottom. I needed to extend the controller so it could be operated in the microwave cabinet. It was the easiest, least expensive option I could find. I had originally planned on using 2- 12v dc synchronized linear actuators and controller. $500 verses less then $100 was one reason for going this route. Another was simplicity and time savings. It checked all the boxes for operation and had the weight capacity required. Down side is weight and needing ac voltage. I couldn’t find a 12v dc to 12v ac converter so I ended up with the small 300 watt pure sine inverter I talked about in the video.
Hey Ken, Awesome build. I'd love to know how much it weighs when you get around to it. Is the build our now removeable as a whole slide in unit, or would you have to remove the interior adds you build as separate items if you needed your truck from home projects?
Hay Ken would you be interested in putting a build in for me .but not what you have .I'm a senior citizen can't do a build hard for me to be able..I can pay for parts and labor costs if you can find the time or if you know someone else who can..😊😊
For real! I was looking on the internet for floor heating small spaces and i found electric sheets to continue the electric camper theme but this is legit.
@@xLopez210x I had thought about installing a 120v ac immersion heater in the radiant tank for when I’m at home to keep the camper floor above freezing so I wouldn’t need to fully drain the freshwater tank. Good chance I’ll do that before next winter. I didn’t mention that I used a low viscosity radiant fluid in the heating system rated to -40. Since I used aluminum for the tank I wanted something not only for freeze protection but also corrosion inhibitors. Thanks for the comment and enjoy your build!
@@kenthompson2308 thanks for the info! I definitely need to not only weigh the pros and cons but my skill level as well. I can do some minor plumbing and mimic what i see but my field is in electronics and welding. It’ll be funny having a badass electrical setup but the camper looks like crap 🤣
Aluminum piano hinge, 3/32 pin, 2 inch open width. Marine slam latches. I purchased the latches from Amazon. The hinge from a local aluminum supplier. McMaster Carr is also a great source for hard to find items, they are a bit more expensive but the quality is great.
Love the build! Was wondering what truck and how big is the bed? Also did you have to do any suspension work? I was also looking into something similar. Thinking about getting the Tune M1, for my 2016 F150 with a 5.5' bed.
It’s a 02 tundra with a 6-1/2 foot bed. I did some pretty basic suspension work, new heavier rear leafs, airbags, 5100 shocks. The original leafs were worn out and went with an extra 600 pounds with the new ones.
Maybe one day! I must admit I’m not a huge fan of the lift door. It’s not a great seal and the rain sorta rolls in opening. I find it having the same issues as a standard topper. If I do come up with something I’ll be sure to do a video.
Hay Ken After watching your vid, the one product that stood out for me was the "universal bed rug" material! Looks to be a very useful material for the DIY'er. I looked through Amazon but cant seem to find a "bulk roll" that you referred too. Could you please give a link or a manufactures name so I can get the same product? Thanks and great build! Your giving me lots of great ideas. Mark
P.S. You also said you used machine screws for mounting into the aluminum? Not a lot of material for threads. Did you need to use something to reinforce the aluminum? I.E, rivet nuts. Thanks
Bedrug Classic Bed Mat | 66x98 - You Cut to Fit, Charcoal Grey, (Models w/Drop-In Style Bedliners) | BMX00D This is what I used, available on Amazon. For the machine screws: depending on the forces and use I would use rivet nuts if I found it would be needed, mostly where I just tapped the .065 tube it didn’t need much, very low force. The main connections between framing components I used rivet nuts, usually 1/4-20. The good thing about them is they are easy to upgrade from a threaded hole to a rivet nut by just using the threaded hole as a pilot for the rivet nut. If the space doesn’t allow a countersunk rivet nut can be used instead of the standard which depending on the size can be a 1/16 or so. The countersunk rivet nuts are bit more finicky and the tube thickness is more critical so I try not to use them. In a tube designed frame like I did you can also just drill the backside of the tube mating surface to clear the flange of the rivet nut which I did when necessary……Hope that makes sense. Stainless rivet nuts that I prefer to use have their own issues, the stainless to stainless is notorious for gaulding if there is any issue with a burr, slight cross threading, etc.. A “spinner’” rivet nut from a cross thread is a pain to deal with, it typically requires cutting the bolt if you can’t access the backside of the rivet nut to grab with a vise grip. I typically run a tap through the rivet nut just to be certain there is no burrs. I also put a little wax on the threads which helps considerably with a stainless to stainless connection. A non stainless rivet nut would work fine in near all of the places I used stainless, it’s a dry area. I do worry about galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and a zinc plated rivet nut, stainless is slightly better on the anode scale…….likely a non issue either way.
@@kenthompson2308 I just bought a new Hawk pretty well optioned out that will be in in early September. If I had your skills I would have gone the same route you did. Very impressed.
I have 3- FivstaSola Bifacial 100 Watt Solar Panel, and a single BougeRV 9BB Cell 200 Watts Solar Panel. Alll are performing extremely well particularly for the price I bought them for off of amazon.
Hard to say, but I would guess around 17 grand in materials and parts not including the many hours of labor. I purchased the camper used for $9000 and had many of the main components from a previous build. Big ticket items other than the camper would be the electrical system-lithium batteries and components including solar panels, inverter(s), etc.. The aluminum tubing and sheet was around $1200. Again, pretty tough to estimate as I did it over the winter and had many of the parts already. Thanks for the question!
This is incredible, true craftsmanship
Did you happen to make a video of the raising cabinet and how that is possible?
I did not, I may have some still photos of adapting the desk lift and install.
With your amazing skill and talent you'll make good $$$$. Project M owners will pay you to build theirs.
Appreciate the comment, I enjoy the process but have plenty of projects in the works to go back to work!
Awesome build, look forward to getting my topper soon for my 1st gen! thanks for sharing!
this is by far the best build of the project M, I would love to see a video of the door when installed!
I’ll do an update soon!
Topper builds are super fun! My previous build was a topper, I just wanted to be able to stand up!
Hey Ken! This is an awesome Project M build out! Happy travels!
Hey, thanks! Really appreciate it coming from you guys!
Fantastic job!!!
Thank you! Love the process…..mostly😉
Where are the large somewhat obtrusive side shelves that come as part of the Project M? I don't see them in your Project M (like where you have that seat).
They are still there under the bench and concealed in the cabinet. They are there to provide structure so I didn’t alter them other than a few fasteners.
Such an awesome build, everything looks professionally done! Can you share the lift you use for the microwave cabinet?
It’s a repurposed desk lift. Found it on Craigslist. I installed it upside down so the motor is on the bottom. I needed to extend the controller so it could be operated in the microwave cabinet. It was the easiest, least expensive option I could find. I had originally planned on using 2- 12v dc synchronized linear actuators and controller. $500 verses less then $100 was one reason for going this route. Another was simplicity and time savings. It checked all the boxes for operation and had the weight capacity required. Down side is weight and needing ac voltage. I couldn’t find a 12v dc to 12v ac converter so I ended up with the small 300 watt pure sine inverter I talked about in the video.
Hey Ken, Awesome build. I'd love to know how much it weighs when you get around to it. Is the build our now removeable as a whole slide in unit, or would you have to remove the interior adds you build as separate items if you needed your truck from home projects?
Hay Ken would you be interested in putting a build in for me .but not what you have .I'm a senior citizen can't do a build hard for me to be able..I can pay for parts and labor costs if you can find the time or if you know someone else who can..😊😊
What kind of hitch mount motorcycle rake?
Home built
sweet rig. in floor heat in a truck camper wow.
Right on!
For real! I was looking on the internet for floor heating small spaces and i found electric sheets to continue the electric camper theme but this is legit.
@@xLopez210x
I had thought about installing a 120v ac immersion heater in the radiant tank for when I’m at home to keep the camper floor above freezing so I wouldn’t need to fully drain the freshwater tank. Good chance I’ll do that before next winter. I didn’t mention that I used a low viscosity radiant fluid in the heating system rated to -40. Since I used aluminum for the tank I wanted something not only for freeze protection but also corrosion inhibitors. Thanks for the comment and enjoy your build!
@@kenthompson2308 thanks for the info! I definitely need to not only weigh the pros and cons but my skill level as well. I can do some minor plumbing and mimic what i see but my field is in electronics and welding. It’ll be funny having a badass electrical setup but the camper looks like crap 🤣
What hinges and door latches did you use?
Aluminum piano hinge, 3/32 pin, 2 inch open width. Marine slam latches. I purchased the latches from Amazon. The hinge from a local aluminum supplier. McMaster Carr is also a great source for hard to find items, they are a bit more expensive but the quality is great.
Amazing build.
Glad you think so! Appreciate the comments!
Love the build! Was wondering what truck and how big is the bed? Also did you have to do any suspension work? I was also looking into something similar. Thinking about getting the Tune M1, for my 2016 F150 with a 5.5' bed.
It’s a 02 tundra with a 6-1/2 foot bed. I did some pretty basic suspension work, new heavier rear leafs, airbags, 5100 shocks. The original leafs were worn out and went with an extra 600 pounds with the new ones.
Hi Ken. Do you do builds for other people? Thinking of getting a Oru design camper. Thank you.
Sorry, I don’t do builds I’m pretty retired now but enjoy sharing ideas for inspiration!
Your build is amazing. You have a gift.
I have Tundra/Project M and would love barn doors. Would you consider designing and/or building them?
Maybe one day! I must admit I’m not a huge fan of the lift door. It’s not a great seal and the rain sorta rolls in opening. I find it having the same issues as a standard topper. If I do come up with something I’ll be sure to do a video.
Hay Ken
After watching your vid, the one product that stood out for me was the "universal bed rug" material! Looks to be a very useful material for the DIY'er.
I looked through Amazon but cant seem to find a "bulk roll" that you referred too. Could you please give a link or a manufactures name so I can get the same product? Thanks and great build! Your giving me lots of great ideas. Mark
P.S. You also said you used machine screws for mounting into the aluminum? Not a lot of material for threads. Did you need to use something to reinforce the aluminum? I.E, rivet nuts. Thanks
Bedrug Classic Bed Mat | 66x98 - You Cut to Fit, Charcoal Grey, (Models w/Drop-In Style Bedliners) | BMX00D
This is what I used, available on Amazon.
For the machine screws: depending on the forces and use I would use rivet nuts if I found it would be needed, mostly where I just tapped the .065 tube it didn’t need much, very low force. The main connections between framing components I used rivet nuts, usually 1/4-20. The good thing about them is they are easy to upgrade from a threaded hole to a rivet nut by just using the threaded hole as a pilot for the rivet nut. If the space doesn’t allow a countersunk rivet nut can be used instead of the standard which depending on the size can be a 1/16 or so. The countersunk rivet nuts are bit more finicky and the tube thickness is more critical so I try not to use them. In a tube designed frame like I did you can also just drill the backside of the tube mating surface to clear the flange of the rivet nut which I did when necessary……Hope that makes sense. Stainless rivet nuts that I prefer to use have their own issues, the stainless to stainless is notorious for gaulding if there is any issue with a burr, slight cross threading, etc.. A “spinner’” rivet nut from a cross thread is a pain to deal with, it typically requires cutting the bolt if you can’t access the backside of the rivet nut to grab with a vise grip. I typically run a tap through the rivet nut just to be certain there is no burrs. I also put a little wax on the threads which helps considerably with a stainless to stainless connection. A non stainless rivet nut would work fine in near all of the places I used stainless, it’s a dry area. I do worry about galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and a zinc plated rivet nut, stainless is slightly better on the anode scale…….likely a non issue either way.
You have some mad fab skills! Great job. Best build I have seen on a project M.
Wow, thank you!
@@kenthompson2308 I just bought a new Hawk pretty well optioned out that will be in in early September. If I had your skills I would have gone the same route you did. Very impressed.
What brand of solar panels are you using
I have 3- FivstaSola Bifacial 100 Watt Solar Panel, and a single BougeRV 9BB Cell 200 Watts Solar Panel. Alll are performing extremely well particularly for the price I bought them for off of amazon.
Great build man!
Glad you think so!
Very nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice build you have the skills.
Thanks for the visit, appreciate the feedback!
What's the total price please.
Hard to say, but I would guess around 17 grand in materials and parts not including the many hours of labor. I purchased the camper used for $9000 and had many of the main components from a previous build. Big ticket items other than the camper would be the electrical system-lithium batteries and components including solar panels, inverter(s), etc.. The aluminum tubing and sheet was around $1200. Again, pretty tough to estimate as I did it over the winter and had many of the parts already. Thanks for the question!