Відео

I used a inexpensive standing desk lift similar to this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C498LWF5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I did need to make some changes. I flipped it over so the motor was at the bottom. In its intended orientation the legs form a tee, for how I used it I cut one side of each tee off, that supported the lifted cabinet. Hopefully this makes sense. It uses a ac power supply that plugs int a standard 120v ac household current plug. I ended up purchasing a small pure sine inverter to power it, I’ll add a link. I briefly searched for a 12v dc-12v ac converter with no luck. For my application I wanted the controller in the lifted cabinet so I needed to extend the controller cable. Works out great, cheap for a programmable lift! Let me know if you need anymore details or if what I said doesn’t make sense. Good luck in your build!

@thank you for the link, this is a great idea to unitize the limited space in the camper. Love it.

It’s a start propane quick connect, I couldn’t find a recessed version so I ended up making one out of stainless, spent way too much time making a small addition but I needed it recessed so the tailgate wouldn’t hit it. There may be something out there or you may be able to take a water fill and adapt it to your application. Good luck!

Thanks for the question, I ordered it through Amazon, here is the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CSP7L4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have not seen any condensation, that said I live in Colorado so it’s pretty dry. I have used rigid foam with carpet or speaker carpet in other projects. The 3m spray glue (spray 90 if it doesn’t melt the foam) or 77 which is specific for foam. The bed rug material is definitely more expensive but if it’s flat or curved surface it works really well. The aluminum is mostly covered with a 1/8 plastic sheet on the FWC. That gives it a bit of a thermal break. I suspect there may be a little condensation around the window trim, doors and such that have no thermal break. I didn’t notice the glass fogging up that I have covered with the material, again ventilation while heating and a dry climate helps a lot. Good luck with your build!

Thanks for the comment, always a pleasure to share with others!

Hay Ken would you be interested in putting a build in for me .but not what you have .I'm a senior citizen can't do a build hard for me to be able..I can pay for parts and labor costs if you can find the time or if you know someone else who can..😊😊

@@nicholasbetscon42 Oh man, I’m supposed to be retired also!😉 I’m just about done with all the goodies so weighing is coming. Working on a shower system right now.

Aluminum piano hinge, 3/32 pin, 2 inch open width. Marine slam latches. I purchased the latches from Amazon. The hinge from a local aluminum supplier. McMaster Carr is also a great source for hard to find items, they are a bit more expensive but the quality is great.

The project m started out @ 420 pounds I haven’t weighed it yet. My added weight is under 400-450 pounds plus the addition of the awning 53 pounds. That is dry weight, guessing wet I’m at 1100 pounds or so. I just added new rear Leafs going from the factory 4 leaf to 5, an extra 400 pounds of capacity and 1 inch extra lift from factory. The old springs were really tired. Also airbags and 5100 blistens. Went pretty cheap overall, If I did it again I’d just go to a specialty shop and have them do a custom setup. I had done mine on the cheap a little at a time, first bags (Firestone with daystar cradles) and shocks, then the new rear leafs when I got the camper. The limiting factor really is the brakes, they are fine but would like to go with a big-brake upgrade off a Lexus now that I have 17 inch rims. I had replaced the brakes, rotors, drums with powerstop when I purchased the truck 8? years ago. At the time I bought the slightly larger calibers that (I believe) go on the later first gen tundra. I’m certainly not a suspended specialist or a mechanic, I’m a fabricator so I’m not the best person to take advice from when it comes to the mechanical aspects of the truck,….i get by!😉

@@kenthompson2308 Thank you for the great reply. Sounds like you still manage to operate within GVRW, which I'd hope to do with the Project M or Tune M1 on a First Gen.

Glad to hear it! Sharing ideas is what it’s about, have fun on your build!

Thank you!

Wow, thank you!

@@kenthompson2308 I just bought a new Hawk pretty well optioned out that will be in in early September. If I had your skills I would have gone the same route you did. Very impressed.

P.S. You also said you used machine screws for mounting into the aluminum? Not a lot of material for threads. Did you need to use something to reinforce the aluminum? I.E, rivet nuts. Thanks

Bedrug Classic Bed Mat | 66x98 - You Cut to Fit, Charcoal Grey, (Models w/Drop-In Style Bedliners) | BMX00D This is what I used, available on Amazon. For the machine screws: depending on the forces and use I would use rivet nuts if I found it would be needed, mostly where I just tapped the .065 tube it didn’t need much, very low force. The main connections between framing components I used rivet nuts, usually 1/4-20. The good thing about them is they are easy to upgrade from a threaded hole to a rivet nut by just using the threaded hole as a pilot for the rivet nut. If the space doesn’t allow a countersunk rivet nut can be used instead of the standard which depending on the size can be a 1/16 or so. The countersunk rivet nuts are bit more finicky and the tube thickness is more critical so I try not to use them. In a tube designed frame like I did you can also just drill the backside of the tube mating surface to clear the flange of the rivet nut which I did when necessary……Hope that makes sense. Stainless rivet nuts that I prefer to use have their own issues, the stainless to stainless is notorious for gaulding if there is any issue with a burr, slight cross threading, etc.. A “spinner’” rivet nut from a cross thread is a pain to deal with, it typically requires cutting the bolt if you can’t access the backside of the rivet nut to grab with a vise grip. I typically run a tap through the rivet nut just to be certain there is no burrs. I also put a little wax on the threads which helps considerably with a stainless to stainless connection. A non stainless rivet nut would work fine in near all of the places I used stainless, it’s a dry area. I do worry about galvanic corrosion between the aluminum and a zinc plated rivet nut, stainless is slightly better on the anode scale…….likely a non issue either way.

Sorry, I don’t do builds I’m pretty retired now but enjoy sharing ideas for inspiration!

Hey, thanks! Really appreciate it coming from you guys!

Maybe one day! I must admit I’m not a huge fan of the lift door. It’s not a great seal and the rain sorta rolls in opening. I find it having the same issues as a standard topper. If I do come up with something I’ll be sure to do a video.

It’s a 02 tundra with a 6-1/2 foot bed. I did some pretty basic suspension work, new heavier rear leafs, airbags, 5100 shocks. The original leafs were worn out and went with an extra 600 pounds with the new ones.

Thank you! Cheers!

I have 3- FivstaSola Bifacial 100 Watt Solar Panel, and a single BougeRV 9BB Cell 200 Watts Solar Panel. Alll are performing extremely well particularly for the price I bought them for off of amazon.

Home built

Thank you! Love the process…..mostly😉

Glad you think so! Appreciate the comments!

this is by far the best build of the project M, I would love to see a video of the door when installed!

I’ll do an update soon!

Topper builds are super fun! My previous build was a topper, I just wanted to be able to stand up!

I did not, I may have some still photos of adapting the desk lift and install.

They are still there under the bench and concealed in the cabinet. They are there to provide structure so I didn’t alter them other than a few fasteners.

It’s a repurposed desk lift. Found it on Craigslist. I installed it upside down so the motor is on the bottom. I needed to extend the controller so it could be operated in the microwave cabinet. It was the easiest, least expensive option I could find. I had originally planned on using 2- 12v dc synchronized linear actuators and controller. $500 verses less then $100 was one reason for going this route. Another was simplicity and time savings. It checked all the boxes for operation and had the weight capacity required. Down side is weight and needing ac voltage. I couldn’t find a 12v dc to 12v ac converter so I ended up with the small 300 watt pure sine inverter I talked about in the video.

Thanks for the visit, appreciate the feedback!

Thank you, appreciate it!

Appreciate the comment, I enjoy the process but have plenty of projects in the works to go back to work!

Hard to say, but I would guess around 17 grand in materials and parts not including the many hours of labor. I purchased the camper used for $9000 and had many of the main components from a previous build. Big ticket items other than the camper would be the electrical system-lithium batteries and components including solar panels, inverter(s), etc.. The aluminum tubing and sheet was around $1200. Again, pretty tough to estimate as I did it over the winter and had many of the parts already. Thanks for the question!

Right on!

For real! I was looking on the internet for floor heating small spaces and i found electric sheets to continue the electric camper theme but this is legit.

@@xLopez210x I had thought about installing a 120v ac immersion heater in the radiant tank for when I’m at home to keep the camper floor above freezing so I wouldn’t need to fully drain the freshwater tank. Good chance I’ll do that before next winter. I didn’t mention that I used a low viscosity radiant fluid in the heating system rated to -40. Since I used aluminum for the tank I wanted something not only for freeze protection but also corrosion inhibitors. Thanks for the comment and enjoy your build!

@@kenthompson2308 thanks for the info! I definitely need to not only weigh the pros and cons but my skill level as well. I can do some minor plumbing and mimic what i see but my field is in electronics and welding. It’ll be funny having a badass electrical setup but the camper looks like crap 🤣

Glad you think so!

Sorry, I’m retired! That said this is considered a 36 inch oven by most standards. The exterior dimensions are determined by the amount of insulation that is used.