19:30 That long screw bolt has a square key on top. If your control panel has such a square mounting hole, then you should be fine using it. That DeoxIT Green is carbon track safe. If a leaf switch contains carbon pad, then (of course) you want to use DeoxIT Green. A little warning: D-5 and F-5 contain a solvent that is not safe on plastics (good thing you used D-100 where the plastic is :)). These two are good for flushing out particles that should not be there. When done, you can follow up with D-100 or F-100 for longevity (they do not contain the solvent) and better protect the surface. D-5 has just 5% lubricant/protector while D-100 has 100% lubricant/protector. I've seen people generously using D-5 on old receivers. This thing would gunk up over the years and many composite boards inside would just flake and fall apart (due to the solvent). More is not always better. I like the old applicator with a thinner straw (without that big plastic top). You are able to better control the flow with it and you use less, so it lasts you longer. The new applicator sucks. That thick straw is difficult to get in some places. People say that the company made that new applicator, so you use up the solution faster and buy another one... making them much more money :/.
@@delsarcade Yeah, you kind of want to have two matching bolts, so your control panel looks nice. As for the pot, later down the line, you can still take it apart and clean it, if needed (to keep it original). The way they are built, you can still service them. Then you could apply the F-100 on the track for longevity (gently clean with F-5 and a q-tip first, then follow up with F-100). Also, apply a special grease between the shaft and housing. That will also act like a sealant and cushion, so the shaft moves less from side to side, exerting more equal force on the track. You should be fine as it is for now. You don't move that pot much anyway. All that extra work is more necessary with old receivers where you move the pot more often and a smooth movement and feel is more necessary.
Just talked about that this morning in fact... We've been having scheduling conflicts but it should be back on track soon. Here is the playlist (available on Podcasts too): ua-cam.com/play/PLMenkBsi2LKDdZisyYys8SZBSseq7vmoO.html&si=Ek6RQkNwZLvZgXkI
19:30 That long screw bolt has a square key on top. If your control panel has such a square mounting hole, then you should be fine using it.
That DeoxIT Green is carbon track safe. If a leaf switch contains carbon pad, then (of course) you want to use DeoxIT Green. A little warning: D-5 and F-5 contain a solvent that is not safe on plastics (good thing you used D-100 where the plastic is :)). These two are good for flushing out particles that should not be there. When done, you can follow up with D-100 or F-100 for longevity (they do not contain the solvent) and better protect the surface. D-5 has just 5% lubricant/protector while D-100 has 100% lubricant/protector.
I've seen people generously using D-5 on old receivers. This thing would gunk up over the years and many composite boards inside would just flake and fall apart (due to the solvent). More is not always better. I like the old applicator with a thinner straw (without that big plastic top). You are able to better control the flow with it and you use less, so it lasts you longer. The new applicator sucks. That thick straw is difficult to get in some places. People say that the company made that new applicator, so you use up the solution faster and buy another one... making them much more money :/.
GREAT info! Thanks!
As for the screw, I only have 1. I need another and no one seems to make it. So I'm fabricating my own solution.
@@delsarcade Yeah, you kind of want to have two matching bolts, so your control panel looks nice.
As for the pot, later down the line, you can still take it apart and clean it, if needed (to keep it original). The way they are built, you can still service them. Then you could apply the F-100 on the track for longevity (gently clean with F-5 and a q-tip first, then follow up with F-100). Also, apply a special grease between the shaft and housing. That will also act like a sealant and cushion, so the shaft moves less from side to side, exerting more equal force on the track. You should be fine as it is for now. You don't move that pot much anyway. All that extra work is more necessary with old receivers where you move the pot more often and a smooth movement and feel is more necessary.
Give them ice cream. Then they won't be mad no more!
Hey Del nice work 👍
Well done sir
Check the connector pins on the 4600 I had red intermittent on mine and it ended up being one of the pins
Do you still do Delusionals round table.
Just talked about that this morning in fact... We've been having scheduling conflicts but it should be back on track soon.
Here is the playlist (available on Podcasts too):
ua-cam.com/play/PLMenkBsi2LKDdZisyYys8SZBSseq7vmoO.html&si=Ek6RQkNwZLvZgXkI