I agree you do not have to change the whole distributor because of the igniter. There are 3 pick up sensors also in the distributor you can check the resistance on (TDC/CKP/CYL or scope it to see if you get a signal pattern. You can also check to see if you get pulse from injectors with a test light (or noid light) to see if your pick ups are sending a signal to the computer. I just replaced one of the pick up sensors I had spark but (no injector pulse). I changed (the TDC sensor) and the car started right up (had to take the dist off and perform surgery lol). Normally mechanics replace the entire distributor (Honda rip off procedure) for a bad pick up sensor. A dist job at a shop cost $300-$600 plus. No need to change the whole distributor Honda Techs do it A LOT and people are unaware of the rip off that just took place. Great Videos Justin.
You seem to know a lot. My 95 honda accord just died while going down the road. Now it won't start. It turns over just won't start. I replaced Main fuel pump module. I tested the fuel pump. It's fine. Timing belt is fine. I do not hear the fuel pump come on. I've checked under dash fuses. Distributor plugs and wires have been recently replaced. Any suggestions. Check engine light is on
Thanks, I had an electrical arching sound in my distributor, tachometer jumping around, no start condition. My coil had a rusty spring so I replaced it thinking that was the issue. Still no start. Found this video and this was the issue. Luckily I had a parts civic laying around, so free fix! Great video
Almost forgot to mention to those of you who are doing this yourself.... Use Heat Sink Grease between the Igniter and its metal mounting block, which is also its heat sink. Otherwise it will overheat and fail again soon... Cheers !
That big open airbox is just waiting to swallow some small dropped parts, throw a rag over it, maybe a doo-rag. Plus like most Honda distributor videos, they don't warn you to remove the cap slowly, and watch that spring underneath, it will fall out and bounce to the most unlikely place you'll ever look to find it.
I opened my distributor a while back and the little spring fell out and spent an hour looking for it and trying to knock it out of the bumper and set off the srs light and I ended up finding it in the radiator lol
Thanks for posting this cool/imformative video. I'm pretty sure the ICM is the issue I'm having with my Civic. I've noticed that in other cars the ICM is a bit more accessible but I'll go ahead and give this a try (fingers crossed). Thanks again, Justin
Just wondering I have an 86 prelude, and it shakes and rumbles high idle, itll be fine driving for awhile then when it gets warm it starts to almost stall and I have no power and pgm fi light comes on. Just wondering if this may be the problem and if youve ever worked on these 2nd gens
I have a 1990 Honda Civic in my car don't even start. I got this part that you're speaking of today we're going to put it in fingers crossed. Everybody keeps telling me that it's such a stir beater but we're going to try it expensive. I tried the fuel filter check the fuel pump spark plugs are good I don't know at this point she just turns over but she won't start
Im working on my 2001 Yamaha Raptor 660r and it won't start. I replaced the coil and spark plug and am too lazy to check the two carbs. Anyways, my distribution box is sealed on one side with silicone, is it possible to just replace the ICM and cut the silicone or do I need to replace the whole box?
My fuel pump isn’t getting power. Not priming, got a new main relay and I don’t hear it clicking... I took the engine b18c1 out of another car I had and the car ran with no problems.
Hi Justin just wanted to say I have watched your video and it's great. Here is my problem, 1995 Honda Accord LX 2.2. I have an external coil and after removing Cap, rotor and dust cover it seems like it's not just two screws to remove the ICM. I could be wrong but the majority of replacements on You Tube are Hitachi with the coil in the distributor. Again, my coil is external. Just wondering if I have to remove the distributor with a TEC Dist. BTW my issue was after 13 mins of running just stalls after igniter overheats, plenty of fuel pressure, restarts after 15 mins like no problem. I have worked for Honda for 22 years since 1979 and Acura, all dealership from prep tech to Service manager, any help would greatly be appreciated! I hope its just the two screws you speak of and I have the new ICM.
Did you ever solve your accord stalling issue? I have 95 lx and have same issue! Already done plugs wire, ignition coil, dist cap, fuel filter fuel pump, fuel relay, catalytic converter, cleaned throttle body and idle air control valve, new map sensor... frustrating. Still dies once up to temp!!!
@@Dat550go Yes it was the distributor not the distributor cap. I was pretty mad at myself for throwing parts at the problemIt only cost me 30 bucks on Amazon as a returned item so sort of frustrating but I guess I needed quite a few of those things to be replaced anyway soon
89 accord a20a1 .stuttering under load /full throtlle around 4k if. Eased into doesnt do it. Replaced coil. Cap rotor. Plugs and wires. Still acts up could it be a weak igniter
Someone is going to yell at me for posting this all the time but... if you're driving along and it dies you may have a worn run position in you ignition. Years of too many key-chains tuggin at it. Also the main relay can have poor solder connections that can cause random no starts and can kill it even after your rolling (heat/cold/moisture and kaput).
It’s just better to buy the whole distributor it comes complete with everything that he’s talking about it’s less than 90 bucks depending on the make and model of your car but to answer your question everything is separate if you wanna fix one thing at a time good luck
coils? What codes are you throwing?? Also, you may look into the main relay as it can be an problem and your car is in the right age to be having this issue. Go watch Ericthecarguy, he has a good video on it /watch?v=viIZ8k60awY in fact you might want to see if his other videos may help.
hey brother I need to ask you a question that you may be able to help me out with I have a 97 Acura 3.0 CL and I was driving into work one day and it is dyed on it it started up but when I got to work it won't start again when I checked for Paws coming from a mission coil I have power there going to the distributor caps but the wire running distributor cap to the spark plug there's no wire is there a uniter inside the distributor cap I see it has 4 screw in this flat piece of plastic can I get that off of any other kind of Acura that has that same kind of setup as mine or do I have to pacifically put that same park on I need help badly been trying to get this car taken care of mechanic shops keep trying to charge me $4,600 to do some work that I know shouldn't cost more than a couple honey I am mechanically inclined a little bit to know what I need to do and how to fix it and I just need to know if that's the problem with this Honda Acura CL 3.0 your help will be grateful thanks a lot bro and have a nice day
again, what codes are you throwing? Have you checked the Main Relay under the dash or even the run position in the ignition can be worn out killing the spark. It can cause intermittent no starts.
+Justin Sane hey I got a 800 horsepower Civic and my problem is when I'm driving if I'm trying to get on it and wont past 6000 RPM and she started break up can you train to help me so I can resolve my problem I would appreciate that thanks
Sir, you don't teach properly. There are differences in ICM's my GSR and Type R's ICM's are different than my friends LS. You also explain nothing about the application of thermal paste on the unit or even how to apply it. Like every other car channel on youtube, this is like taking your word with a grain of buckshot over salt.. You will cause someone to completely fry their ignition following this shit.
I agree you do not have to change the whole distributor because of the igniter. There are 3 pick up sensors also in the distributor you can check the resistance on (TDC/CKP/CYL or scope it to see if you get a signal pattern. You can also check to see if you get pulse from injectors with a test light (or noid light) to see if your pick ups are sending a signal to the computer. I just replaced one of the pick up sensors I had spark but (no injector pulse). I changed (the TDC sensor) and the car started right up (had to take the dist off and perform surgery lol). Normally mechanics replace the entire distributor (Honda rip off procedure) for a bad pick up sensor. A dist job at a shop cost $300-$600 plus. No need to change the whole distributor Honda Techs do it A LOT and people are unaware of the rip off that just took place. Great Videos Justin.
You seem to know a lot. My 95 honda accord just died while going down the road. Now it won't start. It turns over just won't start. I replaced Main fuel pump module. I tested the fuel pump. It's fine. Timing belt is fine. I do not hear the fuel pump come on. I've checked under dash fuses. Distributor plugs and wires have been recently replaced. Any suggestions. Check engine light is on
@@fishwanda you ever figure our why it won't start? Could be your main relay.
Right to the point and this guy saved a lot of people money and headaches. Well done and thank you.
Thanks, I had an electrical arching sound in my distributor, tachometer jumping around, no start condition. My coil had a rusty spring so I replaced it thinking that was the issue. Still no start. Found this video and this was the issue. Luckily I had a parts civic laying around, so free fix! Great video
Almost forgot to mention to those of you who are doing this yourself....
Use Heat Sink Grease between the Igniter and its metal mounting block,
which is also its heat sink. Otherwise it will overheat and fail again soon...
Cheers !
like thermal compound in computer building
I just wanted to comment, had a 99 crv, no spark on sub freezing days, stumble at 50f till warm.
Turned out it was this module, appreciate the help!
Exact same issue, glad I wasn't alone!
Good one, thank you. Cape Town South Africa.
Changed my module a few years ago on my 2000 civic. Engine sounded like new !
That big open airbox is just waiting to swallow some small dropped parts, throw a rag over it, maybe a doo-rag. Plus like most Honda distributor videos, they don't warn you to remove the cap slowly, and watch that spring underneath, it will fall out and bounce to the most unlikely place you'll ever look to find it.
Thanks man. I was thinking wtf do I need to pull the dizzy for this. Lil lunch room UA-cam for the win
I opened my distributor a while back and the little spring fell out and spent an hour looking for it and trying to knock it out of the bumper and set off the srs light and I ended up finding it in the radiator lol
Thanks for posting this cool/imformative video. I'm pretty sure the ICM is the issue I'm having with my Civic. I've noticed that in other cars the ICM is a bit more accessible but I'll go ahead and give this a try (fingers crossed). Thanks again, Justin
Did you fix it? Having same issue on civic. Crank,no start
Wondering if i can modify it with a accel gm hei control module? 😅 run a longer line from inside to outside
Just wondering I have an 86 prelude, and it shakes and rumbles high idle, itll be fine driving for awhile then when it gets warm it starts to almost stall and I have no power and pgm fi light comes on. Just wondering if this may be the problem and if youve ever worked on these 2nd gens
Maybe change your pcv valve and check around for vacuum leaks.
Very informative, thank you.
Thanks for the tips big help brotha
I have a 1990 Honda Civic in my car don't even start. I got this part that you're speaking of today we're going to put it in fingers crossed. Everybody keeps telling me that it's such a stir beater but we're going to try it expensive. I tried the fuel filter check the fuel pump spark plugs are good I don't know at this point she just turns over but she won't start
Hey I hope you see this. Did this happen to work? I have a 92 Accord that isn't getting spark but it does crank
Niiice you gonna boost that LS my valve cover looks just like that stripped the paint off and liked the look
I have a 1999 Honda CRV I replaced everything the distributor but I'm still not getting any Spark what should I look for next
Cool Breeze Breezewood a new car
Im working on my 2001 Yamaha Raptor 660r and it won't start. I replaced the coil and spark plug and am too lazy to check the two carbs. Anyways, my distribution box is sealed on one side with silicone, is it possible to just replace the ICM and cut the silicone or do I need to replace the whole box?
What if I replaced both already and the main relay.
Is there any way to fix these without getti g new ones I have a d16a9 but I can't find anyplace that has them
I'm getting a no crank/no check engine light. Would a bad module or coil cause this?
Can a icm cause my car to crank and no start
Question after my 02 accord SE 2.3 warms up some times it will loose power when i go over 3k rpm. will that be the issue?
If this goes bad, can it cause the car to shut off?
My fuel pump isn’t getting power. Not priming, got a new main relay and I don’t hear it clicking...
I took the engine b18c1 out of another car I had and the car ran with no problems.
What about obd0 to obd1 dizzy still the same?
would it be the same part for the ignition coil also? or are those actually vehicle (vtec/non-vtec) specific?
How do you connect the wires?
perfect instructional video!! Thank you So much!!
What engine does that ignitor come from
Antonio Escobedo i think a 90s civic sohc is what we robbed it from
Thank you and love the vids keep up the great work man :)
Will a bad ICM cause misfires/random misfires?
Have you tried ignition coil
Hi Justin just wanted to say I have watched your video and it's great. Here is my problem, 1995 Honda Accord LX 2.2. I have an external coil and after removing Cap, rotor and dust cover it seems like it's not just two screws to remove the ICM. I could be wrong but the majority of replacements on You Tube are Hitachi with the coil in the distributor. Again, my coil is external. Just wondering if I have to remove the distributor with a TEC Dist. BTW my issue was after 13 mins of running just stalls after igniter overheats, plenty of fuel pressure, restarts after 15 mins like no problem. I have worked for Honda for 22 years since 1979 and Acura, all dealership from prep tech to Service manager, any help would greatly be appreciated! I hope its just the two screws you speak of and I have the new ICM.
Did you ever solve your accord stalling issue? I have 95 lx and have same issue! Already done plugs wire, ignition coil, dist cap, fuel filter fuel pump, fuel relay, catalytic converter, cleaned throttle body and idle air control valve, new map sensor... frustrating. Still dies once up to temp!!!
@@pjmisley same here. Did you solve yours?
@@Dat550go Yes it was the distributor not the distributor cap. I was pretty mad at myself for throwing parts at the problemIt only cost me 30 bucks on Amazon as a returned item so sort of frustrating but I guess I needed quite a few of those things to be replaced anyway soon
@@pjmisley oh man. 😕 well.. At least its fixed. Do you still have the vehicle?
Thanks
89 accord a20a1 .stuttering under load /full throtlle around 4k if. Eased into doesnt do it. Replaced coil. Cap rotor. Plugs and wires. Still acts up could it be a weak igniter
Any update on what it was ?
Might see if it will work on my 87 Honda legend/Acura coup. 2.7 engine
Will this fix stalling during driving Or code 15 ugnition output signal?
Could be a bad MAP sensor, was having same issue.
If the ignititors are the same, which one is the least expensive haha.
would that cause my car to turn off while its running and in gear? i just replaced the coil and it did the same thing. thanks in advance
Someone is going to yell at me for posting this all the time but... if you're driving along and it dies you may have a worn run position in you ignition. Years of too many key-chains tuggin at it. Also the main relay can have poor solder connections that can cause random no starts and can kill it even after your rolling (heat/cold/moisture and kaput).
Yes
I replaced my distributor recently hoping that was the problem. Is the ignition control module part of the distributor assembly or separate.?
It’s just better to buy the whole distributor it comes complete with everything that he’s talking about it’s less than 90 bucks depending on the make and model of your car but to answer your question everything is separate if you wanna fix one thing at a time good luck
Alexis Tudor if it’s still not starting check the 1990-1997 HONDA ACCORD MAIN RELAY-FUEL PUMP RELAY
So the d series use the same icm?
I got a Honda accord ex v6 99 crank and it won't start up I got new distributor cap and spark plugs and wire and no spark
coils? What codes are you throwing?? Also, you may look into the main relay as it can be an problem and your car is in the right age to be having this issue. Go watch Ericthecarguy, he has a good video on it /watch?v=viIZ8k60awY in fact you might want to see if his other videos may help.
+According To Honda i already fix my Honda accord ex v6 99 it was the coil and the main relay is good that was the first thing I check
hey brother I need to ask you a question that you may be able to help me out with I have a 97 Acura 3.0 CL and I was driving into work one day and it is dyed on it it started up but when I got to work it won't start again when I checked for Paws coming from a mission coil I have power there going to the distributor caps but the wire running distributor cap to the spark plug there's no wire is there a uniter inside the distributor cap I see it has 4 screw in this flat piece of plastic can I get that off of any other kind of Acura that has that same kind of setup as mine or do I have to pacifically put that same park on I need help badly been trying to get this car taken care of mechanic shops keep trying to charge me $4,600 to do some work that I know shouldn't cost more than a couple honey I am mechanically inclined a little bit to know what I need to do and how to fix it and I just need to know if that's the problem with this Honda Acura CL 3.0 your help will be grateful thanks a lot bro and have a nice day
again, what codes are you throwing? Have you checked the Main Relay under the dash or even the run position in the ignition can be worn out killing the spark. It can cause intermittent no starts.
1990 Honda prelude distributor is completely different then any other
I'm willing to bet it's similar to the CB7 Accord. Looks completely different lol
Would this be the cause of a hiccup or miss when my A/C compressor kicks in or when an accessory such as the cooling fan comes on? Thanks! 2000 CRV
I got all the plugs mixed up what order do they go in?
Could this cause it to go rich af and kill itself?
Acura Gang but if you know you know
Hey Justin I had a question I have a kseries if you can answer my question if would be great
Sure. Send me a message on www.jsracingproducts.net
+Justin Sane hey I got a 800 horsepower Civic and my problem is when I'm driving if I'm trying to get on it and wont past 6000 RPM and she started break up can you train to help me so I can resolve my problem I would appreciate that thanks
+Justin Sane hey my 98 integra randomly turns off and it won't start after few minutes it will start and run normal....icm?
worn run position in ignition or main relay under the dash. maybe
@@beboaguayo4664 not enough fuel.
You didn't show the actual ignition module replacement!
My car is turning but won't start 95 Integra
Dipak Bissesar check if the fuel pump is delivering fuel.
codes??
honda b20 igniter
Where silicone
Wtf! You didn't show witch spades go where
4:50
I thought for sure that was a engine and NOT a motor..... hummmm
u didn't show clearly
Sir, you don't teach properly. There are differences in ICM's my GSR and Type R's ICM's are different than my friends LS. You also explain nothing about the application of thermal paste on the unit or even how to apply it. Like every other car channel on youtube, this is like taking your word with a grain of buckshot over salt.. You will cause someone to completely fry their ignition following this shit.