No Spark Diagnosis (Honda) - EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- It's been a while, I've missed you. In this little tutorial I'm covering the basics of diagnosing a Honda ignition system. I had some technical difficulties while doing this one (I forgot to press record on a couple of occasions and missed a couple of shots) and didn't get all that I had hoped in this video. In particular I was hoping to show the use of a test light to do this diagnosis but didn't get all the footage necessary so I'll go back and shoot that at a later date. I'm hoping there is enough information here to get you started in understanding and diagnosing your ignition system so that you don't have to buy stuff you don't need trying to fix a problem.
Here is a link to a place where you might find the tool I used in the video
www.google.com/products?q=powe...
I want to give a shout out to Greg Insco who donated his car for this video, he's trying to get on some show called Survivor next season and I helped him with his application video. You can check him and the video out via the link below. I just checked the link and I see that he hasn't posted it yet but says he will on the 28th of December 2009 so keep checking back on that.
/ putgregonsurvivor
As always you can find me at EricTheCarGuy.com, as I said in the video there are new things coming to the site for 2010 so keep checking back to check those out.
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. - Авто та транспорт
Ten-years later and this tutorial is still helping a lot of us home-mechanics.
Thank you
Seriously! lol
Very true. This video helped me tremendously when I had a crank no-start problem on my '98 CRV around five years ago. In my case it turned out to be a bad coil and I just followed his steps which were easy to follow. I was back on the road in a day.
I was just pointing out that I had addressed your question in the video, I spend a lot more time than you might think putting these videos together to be as accurate as I can make them. My motivation is to help those that need it, nothing more.There are times when your comments seem redundant and serve only to declare your knowledge of the topics I cover. You don't need my approval, I think you just need "do" more than "read" sometimes.
I have a 91 Honda accord 10th year anniversary what mine is doin I can hear it sputter while driving even when am on the freeway I cant tell it lacks on power but it does however cain of kicks a little as I take off do u know what it mite be ?
EricTheCarGuy I have a 1994 rs non vtec where is the Crank position sensor? Can’t find it on the bottom block. People say distributor? Can you make vid on that . To clear everything. I got the code 4 .
You poor man, giving us a super informative video just to be asked really specific problems about random people's honda problems when they could have just searched another video for it
U
I know this vid was posted way back but hoping someone can verify why my 99 civic dx has a rotor with no set screw. Is this because it's a dx, it has a mani-cat too
12 years later and Eric's content is still so damn helpful. Thanks so much for doing what you do!🙏
yes buddy
14 and counting
14💪🏻
eight years later this video helped me! Thanks Eric
10 years later this video helped me.
Why won't my car start is turning over
12 years later it this video still helped me 🤣
12 years and a half u should change your title brother to how to test just distributor overall they are almost the same . Was having almost impossible time all day tryna look for a video to bench test but just so easy doing it on the car
Too cold for flies this time of year but I'll do what I can for you with my "camera on a tripod". Thanks for watching.
Almost 12yrs later and I'm still utilizing your informative DIY videos. 🙌🏼
I have never worked on a car. I am an old software developer, and had a career solving problems. I had a non-starting 1993 Honda del Sol. No garage would look at it and I didn't want to tow it to someplace with no idea of the the solution or cost of a fix. I looked under the hood and cringed at my lack of understanding of what and where anything is. Then I watched your video and it inspired me to take step one. Three weeks later, a new ignitor and a replacement for my snapped off distributor rotor and screw, I now have a running car!
Thanks! Another Eric
Thank you Eric, you are truly a kind and giving individual and the fact you took all these years of time to instruct us through our car problems is such a selfless and incredible act. I have learned almost everything I know about wrenching around on a car through you and I know Im one among thousands. I also really admire the way you think and your confidence in your knowledge of the arts of automotive repair. You got a great personality and I could talk with you for hours about whats going on with my car or just simply have a few cold ones and bullshit out in the old garage. You deserve all good things that have come your way man.
Eric, I have to give you a loud applause! You are thorough and precise. You simplify your explanations and details providing expert advice to an amateur. Giving astounding results for those who need the help!
Lack of spark is often a coil or igniter however, don't forget to do the first part of this test, I fixed a no start just yesterday that only needed a cap and rotor.
@Swimding It's a good idea in moderation, I say this because I've seen it overused but it does help with conductivity and helps keep the moisture out.
@RoyalTec Awesome, I'm happy the video helped. Thanks for the comment.
Listen to this man. I don't even bother with mechanics or google anymore. This guy knows everything he says. Thanks Eric. '93 Honda Accord EX
This video saved my *&!?!. I was going fuel pump all the way....but you showed me how to check for spark and chase it down....to the Ignition module. That fixed it. Thank you Eric..I always try to consult your expertise on car matters.
12 years later and I still need this, I hope you are doing great Eric!
The most in-depth and easily followed video i have watched to date. Three days of chasing a no-start, and this video got me there in ten minutes. Thank you very much sir, stay safe.
Eric the Car guy is awesome! Nicely presented, relevant, FACTUAL information.
Eric! I love your videos man! I have learned so much and am so grateful for all I have been learning! keep up the good work... you are saving a lot of people much needed money during these hard times, and giving us FREE education at the same time! Thank you so much... One request though, I really like the fact you have an awesome classroom (garage), but please be sure to fix your flag (when hung vertically, blue should always be in the top LEFT corner)... Thank you!
@prinnyjag Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
This video has helped me twice. I can turn a wrench just fine, but I have no experience diagnosing problems like these. So this video has given me direction that I could work with. I have had to replace both my ignitor and coil, at seperate times. Thank you Eric for this video. I simply followed what you said, and now my car works. I (and my wife) appriciate this video.
Fixed my 99 civic twice with the help of this video, once in 2013, used a test light to find bad coil, then again yesterday, no blinks when turned over, bad igniter. Fixed it in a total of an hour thanks to Eric taking the guess work out. I was like a mad scientist.. 'No spark, let me trace that back to the source!' Thank you!
Did you use oem or aftermarket, I have a coworker who's car will not start.
both aftermarket bro.. most will say use OEM.. but on a 99 civic with 240,000 miles, I chose to save that cash! btw, still running strong and starts like a brand new civic.
thanks man, i'll let him know
Is the ignitor, the ignition module? I'm new to the automotive industry.
marcos lopez yes it is
Thanks for helping and answering all of my questions.
Feb. 2019!
Dang, it’s been 11 years and this is still one of the best videos I have ever watched. Just bought a 96 ek and it wouldn’t start but once again, ericthecarguy is here to help.
Thanks @EricTheCarGuy!
11 years ago I never thought I'd ever have a Honda (CR-V)!!!
Exactly the problem I'm having right now... no spark to the plugs (was able to test to that part, working outside, no light= work stops).
Okay, I noticed that when you were testing the coil, you had an alligator clip on it, was that the ground to the tester, confused here, where do you put the ground from test light during each test, you didn't cover that?
are you using the coil itself for a ground during that test?
Since he was using a power probe he did not need to connect to ground because the tool supplies ground internally. If using a normal test light the Alligator clip on a test light always goes to the negative post on the battery, or to any spot on the frame of the vehicle(body ground) a good way to test what is and isnt the frame is with a magnet. If its magnetic, its a ground. DO NOT TRY AND GROUND TO THE COIL, you will either hurt the ignition system or your self
“As long as you’re not the path to ground” 🤣🤣
THANK YOU Eric. For anyone that is still stumped and has a spark at the plugs, and the coil and igniter are working, and fuel flow isn't an issue, I simply cleaned the contacts on the inside of the distributor cap, cleaned a bit of corrosion off the thimble that the rotor attaches to and cleaned the contact on the rotor itself - the "spinning blade" type part had the most corrosion on it of all these parts. I was getting an orange spark from all four plugs using the screwdriver to ground method, but I'm supposing that something wasn't maintaining enough of a connection to give a strong spark. Btw, during this process I also changed out the fuel filter which was over due for a change, but that didn't fix the issue until I cleaned the distributor. (1998 Civic DX hatchback w 120,000km)
@ribak1983 Sweet, I'm glad the video helped you find it. Thanks for the comment.
What if it starts then dies, timing?
Veronica Bill clean your ignition switch contacts and make sure your main relay clicks 3 times
kevinjd1038 how can ya tell if the relay clicks 3 times?
It would be very helpful to let people know which side of the battery to hook the test light. Most people dont have the luxury of owning a probe. In fact if you really wanted to help us you would have done this with a cheap test light like most of us have. : (
You can hook test light to any chassis ground. Then any source of power or spark you touch, you will light the test light. I never connect my test light to a battery..
journeyquest1 why would you connect to the battery? He clearly said to a ground there is no mention of a battery there is grounded parts everywhere in your engine compartment
If you wanted to help yourself, you could open your ears while the man is CLEARLY helping you with the exact info you are asking for..
@spelunkerd You don't have to worry about "frying" the probe as the voltage will just go straight to ground and not effect it at all. The compositor is probably there to help measure the voltage as a compositor will store voltage based on what is put into it however, It also may be there to help prevent voltage spikes to the testing component. I think just a screwdriver held close to ground would tell you all you needed to know.
@angelit04u Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
and if there were oil in the cap.what would that mean?
Distributor shaft seal and/or o-ring leaking.
If there were oil in the cap, change the gasket cap seal, O-Ring, leak cover and make sure they are all OEM (Honda)
Paolo Inigo mamacita
oil in the cap would stop it from starting?
Just had that problem on a Toyota. Set out to replace the disty O-ring and the shaft seal. Getting the shaft out required a pin to be removed, and that was darn near impossible without the right tool, and trivial with the right tool. The right tool is a motorcycle chain breaker. You can always buy an aftermarket distributor. Just make sure you know how to keep track of the alignment between the cam "teeth" on the distributor and the slots for the teeth on the cam shaft. There are plenty of disty videos that cover how to do exactly that.
Yeah and we working on that junk box another piece of crap piece of junk there is a white be missing working on like Donkey crap a box j j junk box in the Honda the reclaim metals what they really are that one with the Geo Prizm run to the got a body shop got hold of the person the wrong body shop in there to do the do the repairs on Geo Prizm on that yeah we have a body shop guy I know he checked everything out the way works on the collision of the vehicle checks all the wiring all the horses and everything that needs to be done he replaced the whole wiring harness and Warren everything everything works when he gets finished with it it doesn't in fact spects. Yeah all those Hondas and although Japanese and there's a bunch of crap and junk a box need to work on the right car the right car is the General Motors the right car to work on and also the green Garza right car to work on special with the Hyundai. The switch cars a good car to work going to in the BMW and Audi Fox in the car to work yeah Toyota Yoder on
Junkbox Japanese Hondas in your specially the unmentionable Nissan and you and your really nuts working on the junk a boxers in the unmentionable Nissan in the in the in the yogurt Toyota
HAHAHAHAHA O MY GAWD!!!!!!!!!! I CANT BREATHE!!!!
WTF?
spam or special?
FragmentalStew Both but slightly more special.
Do you even know what your saying?
@FollowingJohn In that situation I would be replacing the coil AND the distributor sub assembly. I highly recommend using an OE distributor as I've seen lots of problems with the aftermarket units.
@HondaVtecDOHC Cool I'm glad you found it. Checking fuses should be one of the first steps in diagnosing a no start so if you run into that again be sure the check them. Thanks for the update.
@kevinlaw88 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
@cardahon Actually either will work but I would recommend negative, what your looking for is a blinking light as you crank, if it's not there replace the igniter, if it is, replace the coil.
@nico27004 You don't need to replace the entire distributor all you would need to replace is the coil. You might want to watch the video I did on replacing the distributor on my Integra for how to get the coil out as I believe that has a similar design.
I'm just starting Engine Performance at GRCC and this video definitely helped!
My 91 Acura Integra previously did not start a couple times but could not get it to fail at the shop while I was in Electrical. Testing said everything was fine.
Now it only cranks and I can smell fuel and am suspecting a no spark. Thanks for the tips Eric!
Time goes by fast man. I've been watching your video for years and this video is recorded in 2009 it made realized that 5 years of my life is gone but feels like last time I watched this was last year or something. Thanks you for being there for all of us all these years.
All the best brother
Time goes fast as we age. That's mentioned in one of the TED Radio talk by Gay Raz. It's related to human psychological aspects.
@superewind Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
This is the first time I've seen any of your videos. I was looking for some help in diagnosing this very issue and came across your video. I wanted to make a point of commenting on this video because it was extremely helpful. You explain things clearly and in detail so novices like me can easily understand it. I can tell you know your stuff. I'll definitely be seeking out your videos the next time I need help with my car. Keep up the great work and thank you for your videos.
@dsjkak1 If your getting spark at the coil then the primary is not the issue so don't worry about the + or - at the coil. Your problem is most likely after the coil based on your description. Cap, rotor, wires, plugs.
Eric: Thanks for the tutorial as it pinpointed the cause of my crank, no start problem on my '98 CRV. It was the coil in my case. I'm back on the road again due to your video. Thanks again.
@TekkHakk Thanks for posting the resolution on this as it is always good to know what the 'fix' is.
@eric31291 In my experience Honda ignition systems are very sensitive and my preferred choice for any ignition part is to use OE whenever possible.
where would be without your vids Eric! you're awesome.. I'd like to take this time to thank you for your contribution to myself and to all of your subscribers who depend on your concise information toward Auto mechanical aspects. Thank you so much Eric! You're the man we depend on most. You are totally our go-to-Guy!
@alone1402 If you have already addressed the ignition system as you stated you might consider looking to a possible mechanical problem and do a compression test to be sure the the engine is sound mechanically before you look to electrical components as a burned valve could cause a miss as well.
@meuyxeng It's good to check for power at the coil like I show in this video, if you don't have it there the problem is not at the distributor. BTW I don't think very much of any non OE distributors that are out there as I've seen some of them bad right out of the box.
Thank you so much. Coil was my problem (92 Civic). Your videos are superb. Well shot and edited with precise and easy to comprehend instructions.
@simtech30 Don't worry about the lead coming off of the power probe, your just looking to see if you are getting a switching signal at the coil negative, if you don't see a signal replace the igniter, if you do see a signal, replace the coil.
EricTheCarGuy, a walking textbook of honda repairs. you have no idea how much you have saved me. And crazy enough, when I come across something that I have no idea about it, you address it in detail. Thank you!!
@G562UNOT The main relay has nothing to do with spark. First make sure the engine is spinning the distributor, a broken timing belt won't let the distributor spin but the engine will still turn over, then check to see if you have the power and ground at the coil like I demonstrated in this video, this will help in diagnosis.
It's 2020 and I was trying to figure out why my 1992 Honda Civic wouldn't run. Went to UA-cam, found Eric The Car Guy, watched this video and I think I have found my problem. The inside of the distributor cap is covered in oil. So, it's most likely needs a new distributor. Thanks so much Eric! You help us keep our beloved old Honda's on the road. :-)
Wow, nice job making it simple Eric! I just tested both components and have concluded the coil is bad(or not providing a spark as you say). It's very weird though, because I just replaced the cap and rotor. Then there was no spark. I changed them back to the original before I found this very helpful video. I didn't want to just start throwing parts at the car. This helps me move forward with confidence. New coil tomorrow and hopefully, she starts right up...
Eric, you ROCK! Bought a 97 ex with 100k on it just a few weeks under a year ago. Car was solid up until about 3 weeks ago. 1st was the pipe cracking just past the cat, so i got a Yonaka cat back exhaust and put that on. Fired it up and discovered the front pipe cracked in front of the cat also. Got a new front pipe and put that on and car was fine and sounded really good now. So yesterday, was out running around, 20 miles from home and car dies at the stop light. Argh! Get it towed home, $235 later and checked for spark at plugs, none. Brother who was a honda mech. for 18 yrs. until retirement in 1993 says it could be coil or igniter but couldn't remember how to check. Found your vid on UA-cam Eric and ran the tests, finding the coil to be bad. Replaced it and bingo! Fired right up, what a load of relief to me. Can't thank you enough for all that you do!
@vinceperez158 The discoloration is normal and not an issue, I can say based on my experience the best way to go with Honda distributors is with OE parts as I haven't found an aftermarket one that was worth a darn yet. And yes, I always recommend diagnosing a problem instead of throwing parts at it.
@binnsh That's why I use a spray bottle with water sprayed on the ignition system in the dark to check for leaks. I hope to make a video on this when the opportunity arises. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for your videos this is one of the many videos of yours that have been helping me learn about and work on/ fix my 94 Honda Civic that was passed down to me falling apart. Love the car regardless (it’s got a b20b engine so who wouldn’t lol) and thanks to you I’ve been able to tackle almost every issue it’s thrown my way with very little assistance. It feels great and I find it very rewarding fixing my own car and I wouldn’t have been able to do it with out your videos. Keep them coming, you’re awesome.
This vid helped me out Soo much. Was getting ready to replace the whole distributor on my 76 Buick Regal. Did your test and in deed it was the ignition mod. Thank you sir for a giving a" for me" clear understanding on what to do. Peace out
Thanks a lot, Eric. Coming out of the grocery store my EG hatch was stumbling and died. Left it there over night, watched this video. Used a test light and found out the coil pack went bad. Replaced it right in the parking lot, works great.
@chrisline12 Just replace the effected parts and not the entire distributor, only replace the distributor if it's full of orange dust or leaking oil internally. There are only 2 problems that normally happen with a no spark on a Honda, a bad coil or a bad igniter, this video will show you which one is bad. Also check all the fuses as there is one for the ignition that if it's blown will cause a no spark condition. Also never replace the wires if they are OE and use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs.
@74CarFan You might want to check the fuses to make sure that not only the main relay is getting power but also the ignition system. Work one system at a time based on what is missing, spark or fuel, don't attack everything at once this will be counterproductive, if you don't have spark work on that circuit, if you don't have fuel work on that system not both at once you may end up masking the real problem working this way.
Wow. What a brilliant, professionally presented video.Thanks a million Eric. I now feel a little bit more confident that I won't get ripped off when I talk to the mechanic about my car tomorrow morning.
Thanks Mr Car Guy!! Fixed my sons civic with a old coil that I saved from a junked Accord. Used your trouble shooting tips and found out that the coil was bad!! Thanks Mr Eric!!
Very thankful for this video, just ran into this problem with my 2000 Honda Accord. Last week i put a new starter/battery into it because it wouldn't even turn over. Ran just fine yesterday, now all the sudden it'll turn over, and over, and over but wont kick on. Did the screwdriver test that you showed in the video, not getting any spark at all. Dont have the tools to do the other tests, or a place to do it at the moment being in a apartment with no garage or shed. But your video was very helpful.
@raiderx1000 You need the spring or the voltage will leak out and possibly cause a misfire or coil failure. You can use one from a bic pen, I've done it in the past. I'm not sure on your application but on some the spring was in the cap.
I came across this when my 2001 Honda stopped running. I first saw Eric's utube on the main fuel pump relay. I checked the relay and it was good. Eric mentioned this utube so I followed his outline. I found no spark at the plugs, but did have spark at the coil. I did not want to believe that the rotor or cap had gone bad. They are such simple devices. The tip of the rotor was chewed up. I changed the cap and rotor for $35 and sure enough it fixed the problem.
Thanks Eric, you are a savior.
@CHR32191 If the dust was orange in color you will need to replace the distributor sub assembly, I recommend using an Acura part as I haven't seen too many aftermarket distributors work out that well. If you watch the video I did on distributor replacement I put a Civic distributor on my Integra so yes, many of the parts will change over.
@aristas30002000 Thank YOU for the great comment, glad you liked it.
Been watching you since I got my first Honda back in 2009! You’ve been a blessing. Hope all is good .Much luv bro peace
@TheCivicdrifter You might want to make sure that the cam is spinning like it should, if the distributer does not rotate with the engine it will exhibit a condition like that.
Thanks a whole bunch Eric ! great video , it enabled me to do some basic diagnosis on my 91 civic d15 and determine my coil and ICM were ok. My problem ended up being the main relay which i was able to re-solder. Keep up the great work !
@turbofreak521 Good luck and thanks for watching and your comments.
9+ years later and this video helped me. Eric, you are awesome, thanks!
I'm chasing a no start/no spark (at plugs) issues and this video is helping me pin point the source of the issue. Thank you
Almost 13 years later and I still reference this video as the best explanation of honda ignition systems. Thanks!
Just fixed my 98 civic. This video worked like a charm. No coil light indication, but had ignitor signal. Put a new coil on, and it runs like a champ now. Thanks for the video!
@shaneunderwood The igniter works like the ignition points of old which work as the switch to activate the coil primary side of the circuit. It is not possible to sustain a high voltage spark and pass it from cap terminal to cap terminal, the coli needs to buildup and discharge for that. Old systems used mechanical linkage to open and close the primary circuit via the points, modern systems use electronics (a transistor) to perform the same task with the igniter or similar device.
I have to say how much I absolutely adore your videos. I have learned so much and you have helped me fix a lot of things on my car. I have been working on my 95 Honda Civic by myself and I’m so grateful to you for explaining your knowledge in plain English lol. Thanks again Ericthecarguy you rock 😁
@mizer6666 Do not put any lubricants on the rotor screw as it normally comes with lock tight for a reason as you don't want it coming loose at high RPM inside the cap. If you have difficulty removing it all you have to do is tap it with a punch and hammer in a counterclockwise direction to knock it loose, you can also use an impact driver.
@corpmedia I only set out to save you money but saving your life is a bonus! Thanks for the comment.
@TekkHakk If it passed the test in this video and the light flashed when you cranked the engine at coil (-) then the igniter is good, if the power goes away perhaps you have an issue elsewhere in the circuit perhaps check all the fuses to make sure they are all good.
Eric, you're my go to! Thank you so much for setting aside time from your life to help out the world.
i basically went through same steps to check for lost spark. everything Eric lectured on today i agree. although it was my igniter that failed. i did replaced the external coil along with rotor on my 92 Accord LX for good measure. Started right up. thanks .
thanks so much.I am an ASE diesel Mechanic, and work on a lot of gas stuff too, all makes and models (weedeaters to 18 wheelers). It's hard to know everything about everything ;) . This was a well put together logical troubleshooting video. The way Honda put this together is pretty simple once you understand how it works.My neighbor had bought a used distributor and didn't transfer the drive tang,I swapped that onto the one he bought and it started firing the old one had oil inside.
Thank you for this vid and info. I am an old mechanic and sometimes get shook by the electronics. this vid was spot on and my wife and I carried our crippled selves out to the car and had a running motor an hour later including the trip to autozone. thanks again.
Thank you, Eric. This specific video helps me with the details of how to diagnose this particular, no spark issues. . .
@HondaVtecDOHC That's a tough one because it sounds like a special case. If you know you have spark and fuel then the next step is to check engine mechanical i.e. the mechanical and ignition timing of the engine and it's ability to produce compression.
@DriftingFWWA Yes that is exactly what that means. You might want to watch the video I did on No Start, Diagnostic Basics.
@rpeek Anytime. Let me know if you don't get it sorted and I'll see what I can do.
@founditnow54 That's actually a common problem on that engine, I think the leak near #4 cylinder has to do with a leaky t-stat housing. Try pressure testing the system and look for coolant leaks near #4, I cover cooling system pressure testing in the video I did on Diagnosing an Overheat.
great video. i really like how you're a cool, down to earth guy who makes more sense than anyone else talking about cars on youtube. This stuff is so practical and not too hard to understand. Thank you so much for being you and helping people who wanna learn.
Watching this in 2019. What a tremendous service you do to the community, Eric. We love you.
I wish I had seen this video in 1999, when my 1991 Civic's igniter blew. Ugh. (Of course, that would have been impossible.)
I always keep a spare igniter and coil handy now, but they are aftermarket, because Honda wants 10X the cost for OEM. I'd love to go Honda, but at 10X the cost? Sorry. I'll take my chances that the aftermarket won't fail 9 times before needing the 10th.
@1989purry I'm not sure I understand your question but if you have spark at the plugs the ignition system is working, you may have a problem with timing.
@moisesalpha1 Look to find what is missing, spark, fuel, or an engine mechanical issue. Once you find out what's missing you'll be able to complete the diagnosis and perform a repair.
@EricxXx49 If your getting spark I don't think anything is bad, you may just have low battery voltage, I would start by checking the battery first to make sure it's got enough juice to run the engine. Good luck.
@SargeantH If you have spark then the belt is probably not broken but that doesn't mean that it couldn't be out of time which would be just as bad. Even if the belt didn't break it could have jumped time causing a no start.
Very helpful!!! Even today. There is one big thing left out here. The same non-triggering issue from the Ignitor/Ignition control module will also occur if the main relay is not working or connected. This is due to the fact that it responsible for telling the ECU that it can send signals to fire the coil , when the fuel pump and fuel injectors are powered properly.