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Honda Ignition Coil Replacement (Complete Guide)
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- Опубліковано 6 лип 2017
- This video is a complete guild to Honda ignition coil replacement. If you want to know how to diagnose a bad coil or igniter, check out this video: • No Spark Diagnosis (Ho...
I also have other videos on Honda ignition system repairs I'll post below.
I recommend OE parts, but they can be expensive. Here are links to the parts I used.
Coil: www.acuraautom...
Aftermarket Coil: www.carparts.co...
Distributor Cap: www.acuraautom...
Ignition Rotor: www.acuraautom...
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Thanks for watching!
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecar...
Tools
Eastwood Magnetic Screwdrivers: www.eastwood.co...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
4 years later Eric is still the man! Channels like these are modern day encyclopedias
@itsreallytom4310
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
I need Eric the car guy back. The best automotive info hands down.
This video really helped with my Honda CR-V 1998, the repair is the same as the Civic. Bought the Delphi parts from Ebay, memorized the video. I went the easy way, changing: distributor cap, rotor, coil and ignitor/ignition unit. Replaced the whole contents of the distributor. The problem was the ICU, I was overjoyed to replace the ignitor.
Hi was you crv has ibg misfires and shutting off while driving that's what's happening to mine ?
I'm sure you have heard it before, but you go into such detail about the repair in your videos. it really helps. great video as always.
@kylebain535
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
Just a FYI: those philips head screws that have a small indent next to the cross, where the screwdriver goes are actually not philips head screws. They are JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screws. They look identical to philips, but the tapering if you like is different. Probably that's why Eric emphasise to use good quality screwdrivers, because a good philips one kinda works with JIS, but it is not designed to. Bite the bullet and get a selection of JIS drivers and you don't just rely on your luck to get those screws out.
Aint it Pozidriv screw ?
DyoSurfAndRide I was about to say the same thing. I was working on my Yamaha motorcycle's carburetor and had alot of trouble removing the screws even with good screwdrivers. Ordered a set of JIS screwdrivers and it made all the difference.
And that advice is free. The bits or drivers are not that expensive either. Compared to dealer prices not at all.
JIS is one of those things people will never acknowledge. It's downfall is that they made it too similar to phillips. Vessel makes good jis screwdrivers.
I've always found it easier to remove the rotor screw using a phillips bit and a 1/4" socket on a ratchet. That makes it easier to really press the bit into the screw head so it doesn't slip.
Seems that these DIY help videos have treated all of us well as I just watched your older 2009 video in the description (link) and you were in a dark small place and now look at the light and the size shop. So cool to see how UA-cam has transformed our world(s). I told a hot rod buddy of mine back in 2010 that this would happen and he thought I was crazy lol. Well, better to be crazy then wrong so call me crazy anytime. I have an dead Honda civic right now sitting in the parkway (driveway) and I am using your videos to help me save time and money, thanks a million ETCG !
Thank you so much Eric!!!!!! I had random misfire for so long and checked so many things....after I saw the video checked the coil and it had the same heat spots and a hole on the side! Now the misfire is gone and the engine is happy :)
This Engineer is a, very well informed Great Man. Ok ok I truly appreciate and enjoy his well spoken complete understanding of Basic and technical wealth of knowledge of Automotive repair. Thank you so much Eric.🤠
@jeffmatson2046
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
You COULD NOT have posted this at a better time. I just had to change one of these today........and you're really not kidding about stripping out those screws......
thanks . im back on the road again. youre the best and god bless this good man
@apacalyptic1freelancevideo823
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
Very nice! My 98 Honda Civic is running better than my 2005. The original Muffler finally let loose after the bracket a cheap $65 fix. 176,000 miles and running strong.. love your videos keep up the great work. Tom NJ ♡♡♡♡
@NewJerseyTom
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
I do not own a Honda. nor have I ever - its Saturday evening and I'm thrilled to see your latest
I am very impressed by your knowledge and clear instructions. I have some work to do on my 1997 Honda. Some I'll do myself, but some I'll go to a reputable shop so I don't screw things up..Ha..
@gregstaudacher
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
I do not have a Honda but I do enjoy looking at these videos simple fixes that most people with a bit of common sense could do keep up the good work.
Hy Eric, and I want to start with thank you. I started to work on automotive in the sixties and when I got back to the States from the Army in the seventys points and such were leaving the scene and I didn't like it one bit. You explaining the ignitor is like points did the trick and she's up and running. Did the coil pack, ignitor, cap and rotor. Very kind and helpful you are buddy, Brian
IAM-zu9nx
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
Got a 93 Civic back in the day, but it had been sitting for roughly 14 months. Interior was a bit moldy and it had some maintenance issues that needed addressing because it had been sitting in the grass under a tree for that whole time. It misfired like nothing else. I didn't know a whole lot at the time, so I just tried the basic tune-up, which didn't help. I did a little searching on the web (2004 didn't have as much info as now). Turns out the bearing went bad, likely from sitting unused. The rust colored dust under the cap and a metal-on-metal grinding was indicative of the issue. I bought a used dizzy from a local junkyard, completely dismanteled it and noticed the internals were the same but the housing was different. Swapped in the new shaft with good bearing and rotors and all was good.
haVing rang burniNg riyt sekund fur my koup- help?
qweshShin: replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟ P0300
ETG - the gold standard of auto vids.
I like how you clearly mention what you will be getting into in the introduction. Ericthecar guy is on my top 3 favorite mechanics
@mrbriceno3949
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
Thank you so much you literally help me diagnose my car. This exact part was my problem. Thank you so much.
Eric I don't own a Honda. I haven't worked on one, nor will I anytime soon. But I watch because I enjoy your content.
Thanks for the help!..... my 2000 civic wasnt starting and just swapped the ignition coil i bought on Amazon for $15 and boom problem solved. Turned right up
thank u eric for taking the time to be professional and complete good video
You just saved my butt on a 1999 CR-V after doing a compression test. Thank you so much.
@BEHChrome
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
Personally....Electrical components I've always gone OEM. I know they are more expensive, but built so much better than the aftermarkett electrical components. I've spent countless hours chasing electrical gremlins only to find it was a non OEM electrical component. The worst thing is they generally don't show failure when testing them.
The wife and I had a civic for years. This was the only thing that ever broke on that car.. Great car, loved it
Eric The Car Guy + Honda go together like peanut butter and jelly!
my 2002 accord broke down 2 months ago and it was this same problem .the mechanic broke the rotor so i had to buy a new one as well,wish you made this earlier but what can you do ,the car dosnt feel the same as it used to but it might just be me , any ways i want to say i love your videos , hope you get more recognition, stay dirty :)
Tip I learned the hard way when just replacing the cap and rotor and making sure the coil doesn't go bad in the process: After removing the cap, you usually need to flick the ignition switch to the Start position in order to position the rotor screw for removal. With the cap off, the high voltage in the coil has nowhere safe to go when the ICM tells it to release spark. This is a very good way to blow the coil. Removing one of the fuses (ignition or ECU) either blocks voltage from reaching the distributor or blocks the ECU switch signal to the ICM.
good tip. Or, do like I do and rotate the engine via the crankshaft pulley. That's the proper way to do it.
Patrick94GSR Does it matter which way you rotate the engine by the crankshaft pulley? Always got mixed beliefs about that
Yes. NEVER rotate an engine backwards. Always in the direction it runs.
Geo Logic What damage could occur turning it the opposite way?
Because timing belts usually have slack on the back side, the camshaft sprocket can more easily jump out of time. This in turn can cause valve damage from the piston contacting and pushing against the valves while they're open. This is a bigger problem when with engines which have a damper or moving tensioner that does not lock down. Also, You're running the oil pump backwards, too, but not sure if this is a big problem when turning it by hand.
just right on time when i needed to replace my ignition control module for my 1990 honda civic, you uploaded this tutorial video, awesome.
It's a good idea to unplug the distributor when clocking the rotor to access the screw. Firing unconnected from the plugs is hard on the coil. Also, if you remove or replace the ignition module, reapply some thermal paste to the side with the metal backing to help transfer heat to the distributor body. Those ignition modules get toasty under operation.
what u meen with "claking"
@spjmrlahey4008
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
This is by far the most helpful video I’ve seen
THIS GUYS A PRO LOOK AT HIS YARD SEMIS/ VEHCLES / CUSTOMERS . NICE!
Thank you for the video. This was very in-depth, and it made me a little nervous, but I gave it a try and it worked out fine. The ignition coil had marks in exactly the places yours did. The car fires up quickly. It was previously intermittant, so I'm hoping that the fix is long term.
@Halffastpaddler
replacing ignition coil (*packs 1--4, 2--3) on 2000- ohv pon-i-ak sunfire iz job ofv 2-3 hours time؟
I used this as a guide to replace my Ignition Coil on my 1998 Civic today. Thank you for this video.
I had to replace both coil and igniter on my 99 Civic. I wish I had this video back then.
Also, it's valid to point out that some coils and igniters are specific to two versions of distributor. Luckily, mine was a TEC.
What. . .No "link in the description for a 'good quality screwdriver' ". OH, the humanity! Enjoyable as ever, Eric, keep on keeping on!
Check again.
Touché! It was "hiding" in that very long list. Thought I got one over on ya! Hope you had a bang up 4th!
Spot on repair as allways, i like the design, very neat.
For me, i would whip out the phone and take a picture of the wires, it's a "Just in case." backup :-).
Brilliant idea. In fact, I did that very thing to make 'wiring diagrams' for my Fairmont. I was actually thinking about making a video of that soon.
This is a very good video, My mother's CRV is having issues and someone changed the coil. but didnt help, wondering if they may have left the coil unplugged, now i know what to look for. Thank you sooooo much.
I remember my civic failed because of this, I was on the side of the highway, I remembered I had an civic Si distributor and I always keep a tool set in my car I was able to swap out the internals of the si distributor into my non VTEC distributor while there was a highway patrol watching what I was doing and he was impressed I had my car running within twenty minutes being a used coil I keep a new one in the trunk
haha that's awesome. Reminds me of the time I had to get a tow after the engine died. I figured out it was the ignition harness that fried. I bought a new harness, went to the shop where the car had been towed to, installed it myself in the parking lot and was on my way.
My Accord's distributer or coil failed leaving me on stranded waiting for a tow. I don't know which failed, I just replaced them both. Unfortunately with aftermarket as it's a 1992.
Again q 😅
What about the cps coz mine rev only till 2k rpm...
Perfect video, just replaced the ignition coil on my Prelude, it worked ! yay
Just found this video, great information! My integra b20 engine just died randomly while driving and now has no spark, with your description of the ignitor I'm sure its that so i will be working on replacing that with everything else listed in this video! Thanks!
Hey was it the ignitor that was the problem? My CR-V just did the same thing.
@@steveafanador6441 yes it was
Nice one. On the ignitor heat sink I have used artic silver to maximise its functionality.
Thanks! My Accord quit 3 days ago, hopefully, I can get back up and running with this info. Liked & subscribed, btw!
Update
My rotor screw wasn't hard to get out. It backed it's way out and was just chilling inside of the cap. Good times. Thank God for AAA
Please do a valve cover restoration video!
Dunno how I missed this. :s Great instructional Sir! As usual really. At this stage I consider the coil/igniter/cap even dizzy nearly a regular service part on B-Series engines. At least on mine. I've replaced the coil/igniter/cap three times in ten years and the whole dizzy assembly once as the bearings get noisy after about 40 odd thousand miles.
Yey civics and integras!! More please eric! Love the honda videos.
Just to add the seals go bad on these aswell, periodically check your distributors for oil.
If you neglect to replace the oil seal it will ruin your whole distributor. Replace it as well with the o-ring.
Which oil seal are you referring to? The camshafts have oil seals on the other end behind the timing belt, but on the distributor end they have cam bearing caps. The distributor shaft has the o-ring, and then there's the cam end plug behind the VTEC solenoid. Honda revised that end plug mid-way through Integra production from a rubber plug to a plastic cap with o-rings. The plastic cap seals MUCH better.
Part number for the rotor is different between OBD1 94-95 and OBD2 96-01 Integra GSR's. OBD1 has a P72 in the part number, while OBD2 has the P73 shown here at 12:14
Been there with my 93 Integra, same exact problem, same exact failure points. Awesome video as always Eric!👍🏽🤘🏽
I changed both without removing the distributor.. And I believe the reason igniters fail is because there's no dielectric grease in between the two parts.. And heat kills the coil.. My thoughts. Great video. 👍
Last year I got a code and poor running engine in my 96 Accord that indicated the crank position sensor fail. The part is inside the distributor. I just went ahead and buy the whole distributor assembly (cap and all) on ebay for $66 total. It's running fine so far.
It's funny that one of my relatives with the same generation spent $300+ for the distributor replacement by a shop for oil leak due to the old o-ring, only to find out it's remanufactured part that failed a year later.
I'm simple; I see a Honda video and I click on it
Solved my NO START issues for my 1999 CRV. Thanks.
dixie livingston would it crank but no start? I have issues with my civic. I replaced cap and rotor and still doesn’t want to start.
On my 93 Accord, I had a bad ignitor and replaced it. It came stock with heat sink compound on it. The replacement also came with a cachet of new heat sink compound (Thermal Transfer compound, however you want to call it.)
Ask your local dealer to price match Majestic Honda, mine will add shipping and it's still far lower in cost. Great video, I know some ASE Tech's that just replace distributors.
I hate it when people just shotgun distributors. Aftermarket distributors for Hondas are junk.
This video was great! Just what I needed to boost my hungover morning!
Dude u tought me something I would’ve never knew thanks for this video
Eric, many thaks for your videos, and sharing your knowledge with us.
Maybe you can give me a hand on my accord.
Honda Accord ICTDI 2,2 year 2006 with 200,000 miles,
these car is very well care maintained, the engine is strong an smooth,
After turn the ignition ON
1- Engine service light, Immobilizer, VSA, ABS go ON and after few seconds go OFF. Normal operation
2- Glow plug light goes ON and after 5 or 6 seconds goes OFF. Normal operation
3- Battery, Oil and parking brake lights go ON and stay ON. Normal operation
4-After crank engine immediately starts and after 1 or 2 seconds engine die, if you press the gas {diesel} pedal a little during crank you don't loose any start, engine goes to 1500 rpm and then go back to 800 rpm and everything goes fine, car works fine without any issues. In other words you can not start the engine if you don not press the gas pedal. Apparently there is not any difference between cold or hot engine start up.
In my humble opinion IN A NORMAL OPPERATION, after start RPM will stabilize around 1200 and after warm up, will descend to around 800 RPM. It seems that these is NOT happening.
Any suggestions would be grateful. Best regards, keep posting
amazing. thanks . appreciate you. life saver. tbat was on point. learned alott. now im going to go for it. with confidence . had engine check light tested and read intermitent ignition coil. why test cuz my car is hard to start wont start and stumbling. thats why
Well done! These are amazingly helpful and have the perfect amount of detail.
Will try this out. My mechanic says my civic vtec 00 may have a bad coil based on the symptoms I mentioned (engine looses power and wouldnt start till after 10 to 30 minutes).
Yes this is a common problem and is an easy fix. Good How too!
Every mechanic who has vehicles they are comfortable with hate aftermarket parts for that brand, you and honda, Eric O and any aftermarket brand he puts on. Might be a good discussion video of you can meet with someone like Humble Mechanic and Eric O to discuss it.
Been a few years since I've been to this channel and have gotten some great tips! Even better to see you have almost 1mill subs! Nice!
Thank you!! I have a 1992 honda civic and hoping that I can get this crank no start problem solved.. unfortunately I have to bring into a mechanic tomorrow because I have no knowledge of anything coming down to work on a vehicle..
If you are doing a tune up to replace the cap and rotor DO NOT do what eric did at 2:10. You will likely cause excessive damage to the coil/ignitor(it is no longer grounded when the cap is off) and youll have a big towing bill. To access the rotor screw, manually crank the engine counter clockwise via the Power-steering or the crankshaft bolt. Removing the spark plugs will make turning the engine over easily.
Eric should address this or this video will cause a lot of headaches for people
A little cpu compound between the ignitor and heatsink will help transfer heat better. I believe there is some by the factory.
Forever grateful for these videos Eric!
Distributors really are the Achilles heel on these cars. 5 years ago my little Integra was working hard to get an unreliable label with multiple breakdowns involving all the individual pieces of the distributor. From a rotor that fell off, the igniter, the coil, and then eventually the tangs on the distributor that fit into the cam. All of these went out individually over the course of a year. After the engine ate 3 successive Chinese distributors, I sprung for a Cardone re-manufactured one and put the Chinese distributor next to the spare tire and suprisingly haven't had a problem with it sense. I watched my very first Eric the Car guy video (ua-cam.com/video/T0gd3V9QLhw/v-deo.html) when trouble shooting the igniter. I loved all the work that you did on Honda's then, bought your Integra timing belt video, and was thrilled to see you get the GSR. Thanks for all the great content look forward to seeing more Integra stuff!
cool video, ive got a 1998 civic here in aus, my distributor looks way different to yours, coil is on the right and rotor on the elft, unlike yours with is coil on top with rotor underneath, anyways, i drove my new civic home the toehr day, decided to check saprk, adn then no sparka t all, on any cylinder, changed plugs, wires, still nothing, cranks but no spark, will be changing coil soon hopfeully that solves it
253 in use thin flat screw driver to snug and pry gently hitting different angle. easy do not spin rotor at all! mark it with white out to put back at exact degree. or you will mess up youre timing and hve to pulll apart weverything and do timing to top dead center
I've had good results with thermal paste (the type used on computer CPU's) between the ignitor and its heat sink, seems like dielectric grease would cause heat transfer problems, great video.
As stated in the video, they didn't put it there at the factory and the igniter is still going strong after 16 years. If you want to put it there, great, I just don't see it as necessary. Thanks for the comment.
Distributor, yep, the original one on my 94 GSR failed right at the end of 2013 I believe. The car died at a traffic light, and I had to get my father-in-law to come tow me back to the house (getting towed with a tow strap was scary by itself). One of only 2 times the car has ever been towed in 16 years of ownership. Don't know if it was the coil or the ignitor, but I didn't care. I ordered a brand new Cardone Select distributor from RockAuto with lifetime warranty.
Good thing for the warranty because that one failed on me late last year. The car didn't die, but would buck and hesitate really bad when opening the throttle. I thought it was the clutch slipping at first. Good thing for the lifetime warranty, though. I got another brand new distributor for only the cost of shipping. We'll see how long this one lasts.
I'm not a fan of aftermarket distributors as I've seen many of them fail and also set check engine lights. I'm also not a fan of shotgunning distributors when Honda ignitions fail. If it was just the coil, you could have still had a good distributor and only paid about $14. There's a video linked in the description showing how to diagnose a no spark condition with Honda's.
I know that now, but didn't know it then, and needed to get the car on the road, and the aftermarket distributor is what I could afford at the time. Car runs fine, though, with 360,000 miles. No CEL's or anything else. I don't know how much longer I'll have the car, and I only drive it about 5,000 miles a year now. If it fails again I'll just replace it for free again.
I might still have that old distributor. If I haven't thrown it out, is there a way to replace just the coil and see if it works, without having to install it on the car?
As far as I know you can't really bench-test a distributor though I could be wrong.
perfect timing, about to do one on my 98 2.3 accord. thanks eric.
David Garcia can we trade problems? my 01 2.3 accord is getting a engine lmao
David Garcia also clean or delete your egr system. thats why mine needs an engine
i may have to do that soon, maybe. previous owner didnt keep up with regular maintenance and i here a small knock.
and what is a egr?
David Garcia if its higher miles i feel bad for ya. they tend to go when they start knocking
Thank God for your thoroughness
Eric, if I ever win the lottery I'm going to pay you to teach me how to Honda. More than you already have, that is :) still loving your stuff, I hope to one day have a smokey goatee and a lift that I can shoot videos with.
I watched your video to see if you were going to mention using dielectric grease. You stated that Honda does not state that anywhere. Thanks for that.
My 1984 Honda CRX has an old school, cylindrical coil which is separate from the distributor. But it has had the same issues with the ignitor and coil. I just replaced the coil last week, and my old coil tested out of spec on the secondary side.
nice to see an original style video
My Nissan with the 2Litre SR20VE engine, has a similar setup. With the disp, ign-c, and cam sensor. All-in-one.
And it's the same with this engine, org OEM wires or NGK only works.
Thank you, I am going to attempt rehab on the distributor that came with my 98 Prelude. I want to keep all original parts for as long as I can :^)
I'm inclined to blame the failure on the washing of the bay :) they seem to go hand-in-hand from past experience, and yes I did notice the heat spots on the coil, and i've also rebuilt a dozen Honda distributors over the years. Great video update to your older Honda distributors.
No. I washed the engine 2 months before this coil failed. Also, the Civic coil also failed as shown in the video and I never washed that engine. Ignition coil failures on Honda's are a very common occurrence.
Ignition control module should come with heat sink grease. Use it. I went through a couple of those things burning out.
Only the older Hondas especially OBD0 versions had thermal paste on the heatsink for the igniter. A sign of the thermal paste going bad would be the car just stalling out of no where and you'd be able to restart the car fairly quickly, quick and easy fix is cleaning the old thermal paste and putting new paste on.
Thank you. This video helped me with a 2001 CRV
I was able to easily replace the ignition module ( part you call the ignitor) without removing whole distributor. I remove the whole air cleaner assembly which allows easy access to the everything. I have replaced the coil and the ignition module and my 2001 CR-V still will not start after it is warm. I have also replaced Temp Sensor, Cap, Rotor, Wires, Plugs and fuel filter. I do now know what to do now. I was thinking of replacing the whole distributor or the fuel pump. Other videos state the problem is the 1st three components I mentioned (coil, module, and temp sensor).
Ever think about updating the older videos? The one linked to here is slightly confusing. Maybe do one showing how to test using the test light like most people would have access to.
Eric i dont kno if you have done a video on how to test c.o.p. ignotion coils but you should! Your vids are the best man keep it up
YES! A Honda repair video. Love it.
Tom Hoog is probably pretty happy about giving away pocket screwdrivers thanks to the lucky placement in this video.
I believe he retired several years ago.
call the number and find out :)
Thanks Eric! I am having a hell of a time with mine, those screws for the wires to the coil are SUPER easy to strip out, had to use pinchers and gave up, came back, eventually got them out. Now I have an old ohm meter, not sure how to read the coil resistance
Use a socket wrench and an extension to a Philips head adapter to remove screws from the distributor.. You can find the right bit easier, you can apply more torque to the screw and odds of stripping the screws are smaller.
On d16 the rotor must sit between the number 1 and 3 pin if there are some dummdumms brushes about 10:30 pm degree like anolog clock at tdc. That detail took me days to figure out.
This happened to me, I bought the part from Napa for 60 bucks and installed it.. started right up no problem
Last summer my integras igniter failed in a busy street I was able to park it on the side of the road got me an igniter at O'Reillys and replaced it in a few minutes, I thought it would fail with it a few days months because it was a cheap o'reilly part but it's been good, I've gone to the wrecking yard a couple of times looking for an oem coil and igniter but someone has always beat me to it, I heard the igniters fail because the thermal compound you use to install them wears off of them and the heat ruins them.
my old honda (84 city) the igniter came from the factory with heatsink paste/thermal grease but after 30+ years it got a bit dry so I replaced it with new thermal paste. I have seen many appliances and devices that dont have any sort of thermal interface material from the factory and I always add thermal paste or thermal pads.
Is that cover the 98 Honda CRV as well. And I really enjoy how you are detailed and explaining issues great job thank you
hello Ericthecarguy this is a true story. My grandma has a honda crv 2001 she gave it to her son we dont know anything about repair the car broke one time and this guy witch happend to be a liar told her that she need it a new engine well he charge 1,700 for a new engine, he never change the engine, the car ran for a couple of month then broke. its been seating for over a year 1/2 i do the basic maintenance on my car i am not a mechanic. It was getting to the point that she got frustrated telling me to fix it, call some one to fix it and all that i was getting little tired of it i did not know what to do, i was tired of it to be honest one night God gave me a dream showing me a part of a car, the part had a spring coming out just like the one in the video. I am not a mechanic to say im gonna fix it right away, for over a year 1/2 i have been thinking about this car till i found your video the right one because when i was watching it i felt the peace and secure that this was the part from the dream. i thank God first then you for putting efford to do this video that helps a lot of people. thats my story of faith and hope to share with you all. God is good. bless are those who trust in the lord. thank you eric.
Eric: I have heard that you have supposedly allowed Astral Auto Repair and their top tech video website to post/share your videos. Be very careful in associating your brand with them. They have made a name for themselves by bashing high quality UA-camrs, such as Eric O. at South Main Auto and Keith D at New Level Auto, without providing viewers any real proof of their claims. If you ask questions about these topics, you get banned from their channel. Thanks for you in depth, quality content over the years.
Mine only fails the spark when engine is hot after some minutes driving. What is most likely? Coil or igniter?
What kind of issues did u have before replacing the ignition coil?