How to Apply Touch Up Paint (to Almost Like New!)
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- This video includes tips and how to methods on getting rid of unsightly scratches in your automobile, but without the expensive auto-body bill.
Check out my Amazon Store. There you'll find similar paint buffer and polishing compound that I show in this vid.
The link is located on my homepage on the right side or by clicking this link: astore.amazon.c...
This is a follow up video to my original video, "How to Apply Touch up Paint". Thanks to viewer feedback and comments, I was able to make my car look almost as good as new.
Thanks for watching!
I've been painting cars for close to 20 years What you did wasn't bad I just have 1thing. That haze you have isn't because you sanded too hard its because that wasn't a buffer you were using to buff with Its was more of a polisher used for aplying wax and polish, not compound. they sell little buffer pads you can stick to an electric drill at auto parts stores that would work better. You need more friction and heat to get those scratches out. Don't listen to these shade tree detailers who know nothing, what you did was fine (not at all perfect lol but fine )just next time use a real buffer
Brandon Steele Wow, my mind was just blown. Thanks for comment! I've been wanting to buy those attachments for my drill.
Brandon Steele RichsMethods what he said :). Also I know you uploaded this vid in 2011 but you mentioned a sanding sponge early in the video just wanted to say that you can cop those at homedepot or lowes for a few dollars. I think they only sell low grit sponges(up to 3 or 400 i think, not sure) but I just wrap watever grit I need around it. Nice job!
Totally agree, the buffet he was using is a worthless piece of equipment. They are far too slow.
hah i had one of those buffers once.. i think it cost $19.95..
Can you be a little more specific? There are lots of polishers out there, but how can you tell if it is a buffer? Speed? How fast? I just want to do a Q&D on an older PU, the clear coat is gone. I was just going to go and spray bomb new clear coat, and buff it out. nothing fussy.
Cross hatching not circular motions for wet sanding, just a tip bro
Thank you its people like you on youtube who are helping others who cannot afford taking it to paint shop.
Hey Rich, that looks good bro! As a professional detailer, can I give you some helpful tips for the future? First of all, you NEVER wanna sand in a circular motion! You do more damage that way to your paint. You always sand from left to right and stay as consistant as possible with light to moderate pressure. Second, stay away from the paste compounds. What you should be using for sanding jobs on any vehicle is Meguiars M105 Ultra Cut Compound. It's the best liquid compound around for tough jobs. It'll make your job a hell of a lot easier. Last, anytime you sand, you don't want to be using an orbital polisher cause there's not enough speed to take the haziness out completely. You should be using a DA Buffer or rotory high speed buffer. It takes half of the time instead of workibg 5 times harder and 20 times longer. Just apply the liquid compound on the yellow pad (compounding pad)and and smear it on the surface you're going to be working on a little bit so it doesn't splatter when you turn the buffer on, then you can start buffing the compound into the paint with low RPM's to start. After you start seeing the compound starting to haze a little, then you can crank up the RPM's a little more. As I noticed, you were polishing in circles also. That's how you can put haze marks, also known as holograms into the paint. You gotta move from right to left bro. Other than that, I think it looks good man. You sure did put some work into it. Maybe a little more than it should have been but that's because you were using an orbital polisher, not a high speed buffer. Great work man. I hope you can use those techniques I mentioned to you to cut your time in half and work less? It's up to you though. Hope this helped a little. Keep the world clean, one shine at a time!
The haze at the end looks to me like the result of the polishing compound. The surrounding paint appears to have been rubbed with rubbing compound, which doesn't leave a haze. Apply the rubbing compound to the entire panel followed by waxing should solve the problem. Sanding with anything above a 2500 grit is rarely necessary for a street car. If the problem is not solved with rubbing compound, which it should, and the clear coat thick enough, slightly wet sand the entire panel with a 2500 grit to even it out. Then, polish; rub and finally wax the entire panel.
if the clear coat is too thin or the haze persistent, consider repainting or spraying with clear coat over the entire panel to thicken it after wet sanding the whole panel existing clear coat. Proceed with polishing and rubbing. This will create a weak paint-clear coat bond that will only last up to 2 years depending on weather conditions. Allow to rest for 2 weeks before waxing with breathing wax.
My recommendation to you (or anyone watching this video looking for good info on scratch repair) is to watch any (preferably several) of the literally thousands of videos on UA-cam on this subject made by people who actually know what they're doing. No disrespect, just keepin' it real.
I think that's a great idea. The more perspectives you can get the better.
Yeah, I was going to say that you probably wet sanded the clear coat off of the surrounding paint when you were trying to level the paint to where the color was. Would have been better to get some spray clear coat and apply that on the whole area at that point.
Or instead of sanding as much as you did, apply the clear coat at the start of the video to level it off the scratch. Then let that cure and wet sand it smooth. Then compound, then polish and then finally wax.
Compounding takes out the scratches made by wet sanding. Polishing takes out the scratches put in my compounding. At that point you shouldn't have any scratches and then apply a wax to seal the paint.
Applying the wax earlier in the process just fills in the scratch with wax. And as the car is washed the wax wears off and the scratch comes back.
In all fairness I've watched tonnes of other vids and I've learnt more from this than many of the others. It ain't always about what to do, sometimes it's about what not to do
For someone who's just about to try to touch up a few chips on my pretty new BMW 430i I found this video really useful, basically cos you're just like me: ain't got a clue but learning as you go! Cheers
use plain simple soap with the sandpaper acts as a better lube than water alone
Great job Rich, very clear and easy to follow tutorial! I'll definitely use this if my car ever gets scratched... NOT! j/k It looks great, I just hope that same guy doesn't park next to me :-P
First off, don't sand the existing clear nearly as much as you did, you're just thinning it out without fixing it. Secondly, don't ever let compound or polish "dry" before you use it. It needs to stay wet or you will burn the finish.
Good point. Thanks man.
Well done! However, it would b good to inform the viewers that this type of touch up will only look this good on solid colors. Any type of color w metallic in it, i.e silver, tan etc. will not turn out the same. Metallics shoot out of the paint gun in a specific pattern and without using a paint gun, the matallics will never lay down the same. Great video!
thats a polisher for waxing cars, not a buffer...use a rotery buffer or at least a DA polisher or you will be there all day instead of a couple of minutes
If you are working by hand, after you are done with the 2000 grit sandpaper, do a 3000 grit sand paper sanding. It will make the scratches a lot easier to remove with the compound. As others have mentionned, that wax spreader is useless for componding and polishing... just do it by hand. Use a small wax applicator pad (microfiber, cloth or sponger, doesn't matter) and compound until you can no longer see the haze. Then do a polishing step with a finishing polish. The best combo you can buy on a retail level is Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. That will bring the shine back to the paint. Then apply a wax or sealant to protect the area. Also when sanding, using a sanding block or something that makes the sandpaper really flat is pretty much a must if you want to do a good job. In a bind, use a kitchen sponge. Just make sure only the sand paper touch the paint, not the scotchbrite pad, or you will ruin the paint.
Yes, it did save me money as well as the hassle of having to drop my car off and not have it for a few days. It probably saved me around $100 or more. The buffer was only $20 and the paint was around $15. Honestly, I have brought my car multiple times to the auto-body shop, and I got sick of doing it (and wasting money). Thanks for the comment!
Never seen a body shop painter sand in circular motion. Always sanded a 90 degree angle to the area that needed to be sanded. Even when using a da sand 90 degrees to the area. Now there up to 6000 grit sand paper which makes pull out that sanding marks so easy. You can do it with a da instead of a rotary polisher and a wool pad with a heavy cutting compound.
Interesting. I like the idea of using the 6000 grit sandpaper.
RichsMethods 6000 grit? What is that, like notebook paper? lol
you need to use a sanding block. not your hands. your fingers will cause the sand paper to dig into the car's paint. causing you more issues.
Thanks for the tip! That's a very good point.
@jdleon9909 I used the 10-oz. "#7 White Polishing Compound" (You can get it at True Value, at least I found it on their website by Googling the name). It's around $4. I also used a 2,000 grit sandpaper. You may want to start with a higher grit, around 3,000 grit, in your case. Also, read some of the comments below. They give some really good tips on making it look a little better.
AW! No fair. You should have shown the final finished area so that the results help make future decisions. Thank you for sharing
Literally everything u did was wrong dude
I liked the video mainly for your great manners. Thank you.
People.... spend the $20 to get an exact paint match from a dealer. While they overcharge for everything, it’s only $20 to get the same paint, plus the new touch up paint tubes (at least from Subaru) are a 3-in-1. Paint pen for scratches. Brush applicator for chips and larger scratches. Clear coat on the other end of the tube to finish the job.
Good effort by the guy in the video, but I wouldn’t recommend sanding the surrounding clear coat. As much as it’ll never look perfect (since doing a DIY fix), just apply the touch up paint a thin layer at a time until it’s even with the surrounding paint, then add a touch of clear.
I use this to touch up chips and dings in guitars. I found it best to use a tiny brush with lacquer thinner to smooth the edges of the scratch or chipis. Then fill up the scratch with paint a couple layers. Then fill the rest of the way up the clear until it sits up proud of the surface. Then sand 1500 then with 2000. Then hit with a scratch remover compound with a drill and buffing wheel. (The rotation works better then the vibration buffer) Then a polish.
And I try not to stand the original finish so much.
good job man. I been painting cars for a while too and I learned something new from you. This will actually be helping my job much more efficient now. Btw, buy yourself a porter cable 7424xp . Best polisher for amateurs and pros. Very safe to use no matter what speed youre on. It'll shine your car up real good!
Thank you for the video! I really learned how to fix my own car's scratches!
Cool stuff man, I like how you are experimenting on camera so that the viewer can know what to do and what not to do! it's very effective!
Much better bro,yea u don't wanna go past the clear coat.but you should be able to get just about a prfect match with dat buffer ur using..I prefer a variable speed polisher with different pads.but definitely looks much better than the first video..
@happy9z I used the Color Magic (Black Wax) because it fills any voids in the paint with colored wax- giving an even better finish. If your car has a lot of nicks and/or scratches in it, the colored wax works great to fill in those voids. Because your car is silver though, the normal Meguiar's NXT generation wax should work fine. I used to have a silver car and the Meguiar's worked great. I recommend getting the Meguiar's for your color car.
No, you won't have to continue waxing your car every time you wash your care. However, I'd wax this area every 3-6 months as needed.
I was being lazy, but you that is a good suggestion.
Different components of the paint could have evaporated or deteriorated over time. Also, was the paint matched based off of your paint code on the car (it's usually under the hood, trunk, or in the inside panel of your front doors)?
Hi Rich, great video! So awesome to see that we can actually do this ourselves and save a ton of money. I was wondering where do you get 3000 grit sand paper?
Thanks! I think I got it at a NAPA auto store. But I know I saw it at AutoZone and Advanced Auto.
What on earth was the point of all that?. I mean, at the end, I can see the 'line' of new paint, as well as all the scratches, and as he says two spots where he's gone too far. The whole thing needs to be re-done now, so what was the point of posting the video. It should be titled "How NOT to apply touch up paint"
@rcorrea26 The clear coat isn't necessary as long as you are careful when adding the paint. I've touched up my car a few times without the clear coat. I actually used to own a silver Neon as well. The clear coat gives it a nice touch though and would seal the paint (allowing it to last longer).
Start with rubbing compound. If that doesn't work you may have to sand, but just try to keep your sanding strokes small.
@happy9z I used the Turtle Wax Color Magic (Black). I don't know if they make a silver color. I would use the second wax I should in my video- Meguair's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0. It's around $15 and you pretty much can buy it anywhere. I think it gives the car an awesome shine and is totally worth the money! Good luck.
Yes, but you can sand the lines down. Also, when you don't tape off the paint will over spray, but you can try it without and see how it works.
I'll annotate the video so people will see this!
Use a rubbing or cutting compound and rub the scratch like hell to remove rust. Once done, use a primer as suggested in the video and then follow these instructions to fill the scratch with touch up paint. Take your time sanding and do it lightly. Don't try and rub it down in 10 strokes. Use 3000 grit if copounding by hand. Try also to feather the edge of your sanding area to remove any wayward sanding scratches. Feather by very lighty sanding the edge of the sanding area just a few times.
Well I lost track of how many times you used the word "sandpaper" and "sanding down" here.
Sandpaper (as most people will tell you) is for working with wood and other tasks such as flattening filler whist decorating.
Incredible as it may seem, sandpaper is made from sand!!!
What you are using is "Wet&Dry" Emery Paper.
Good video otherwise, but try not to give people confusing advice!
question for you. Does paint get bad? I bought a spray can that I custom fill with my car colors about 1 year ago. I tried to used it this year and what funny is (my car is red with sprinkle in it) while I apply it, it's perfect match. But once it dry out, it's way more darker and mate. Since I was doing touch up from stone chip, I spray the paint in a cup and used a small brush (pretty much the same as you used) to make the touch up.
Can anybody help with what to the hood of my car my dad and his brother got over their heads on becoming painters and were trying to fix my hood without me knowing what they did is put several canned clear coat sand it don't know what grit they used then buffed it don't know what compound or material they buffed it with now the hood looks hazy with white marking that are I'm there it looks like if they painted with a paint roller. Any help in what compound did he used in the video and material
The way I learned to wet sand deep scratches was, 3M™ Trizact™ Hookit™ Clearcoat Sanding Disc glass cleaner or water, rub along the scratch, then use.
1. 3M™ Perfect-It™ Rubbing Compound.
2. 3M™ Perfect-It™ Machine Polish.
3. 3M™ Perfect-It™ Ultrafine Machine Polish.
Then use 3M™ Perfect-It™ Clean and Shine, With a Clean Microfibre Cloth
Also I learned this way because I work at a car dealership as a detailer.
Sorry about the last comment. Yes, however, the final touch-up turned out all right.
I'M WRITING IN ALL CAPS SO EVERYONE CAN SEE THIS (NOT MEANING TO BE RUDE LOL)
TO CURE THE HAZYNESS AT THE END OF THE VIDEO USE MEGUIAR'S ULTIMATE RUBBING COMPOUND INSTEAD OF THE ONE YOU USED. ITS ONLY 8 OR SO DOLLARS AT WALLMART.
Great video otherwise and go a little easier on the sanding next time lol.
Just a little heads up in NZ i use a product called 'JIFF' its a white coloured fine paste used as a whiteware cleaner and its great as a very fine buffing or a scratch remover as its so fine over doing it is very hard to do...give it ago on a faded old bonnet and you will see what i mean plus its great for cleaning mag wheels...let me know how you got on...cheers
good to know that steve o quit comedy and became such a great car enthusiast
do you mind zooming in the end result actually im doing this to my car but i backed off because i wasnt sure what i was doing so far it seems you did a nice job i might try it again tomorrow but i would love to see some results from what you did mate and also is there a 3RD part of video?
Could it be that or it's simply normal? I didn't sand (totally forgot to sand the paint and coating). For now, it's 4 layer of paint, 10 min dry (big wind where I am) and 3 or 4 layers of clear coat. I don't have anything to buff but I will polish using wax. Thanks
Cool,Great tip! im using this method with Black box turtle wax product.
Thank me later 😊
@NavVvStar Buffer is preferable, but a good microfiber or soft terry cloth towel should be fine. The buffer requires less effort so it makes it easier to do, but you don't have to use one.
Yeah it is based on the paint code. I tried today by spraying directly instead of using a brush and the result are better, but the paint seems plastic so I think my can is bad. I will go buy a new one.
@MidnightRunzMKIV Yes I do like the short cut. I don't have to do anything when I wake up. Ha. Thanks man.
if you have a scratch on a bumper that got through the paint, do you have to prime the affected area first or can you just go ahead and start applying coats of paint to your car?????
@Richsmethod . i bought my dupli-color 2 in 1 silver for my car. I did not find the extra clear coat bottle for the silver i need for my dodge neon. Is the clear coat necessary?
I don't have a 3rd part of the video. I don't have a picture either of the final result, but you get a good idea from the video. I can still see it slightly in the right light, but the overall result is awesome. I saved some money too! Let me know how it turns out for you.
Can't wait to try this on my truck. Great channel. Keep up the good work
I liked your video, and I'm sure it helps a lot of people who are distraught by a gnarly scratch in their paint, and not able to pay $$ to have a shop fix it.
My only tip(s) is that if you add a small drop of Dawn soap to your bottle of water, it helps lubricate a better, degreases as well. For the kind of repair you're doing, you were on track with using the primer after the scratch was super clean and degreased...then the paint and clear.
One thing I've seen a lot of people do that causes a bad result, or takes a lot longer in finishing....is to put paint 'over' the scratch. The touch up paint should 'fill' the scratch, instead of brushing over it. Using a capillary action will fill the void without causing it to brush/flow over the edges.
Lastly... as a lot of people have mentioned here... is to always use a SMALL sanding block instead of fingers. Autozone (and most others) have a small kit that's like $14 that has a small wedge block and several stick-on grades of paper for finish work. The highest I've ever used on a car before finishing/buffing is 2000 grit. Otherwise, it takes way too long and the results (on a road car) are not worth the effort. Depending on the severity, I'll wet sand at 800-1000-1500-2000 - then on to machine work.
Again, cool video, great attitude, and clean production!
petrol88 Wow thanks for the ideas! I'll definitely keep these in mind next time.
RichsMethods Nice video. Thanks for upgrading it. Also, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to very gently dry it on low heat so you don't have to wait 24 hours. I used to work in a test lab and we did that all the time with paint. But as with everything in this project, gentle is better, less is more.
Dennis Johnson
hi how long would you use the hair dryer for? and how long would you wait after using the hair dryer. thanks.
NEVER use dawn dish soap on paint!
Everplex Media LLC... For general washing a car, sure. Nothing at all wrong with Dawn for prep or wet sanding.
@CaptainCoolFTW Thanks a lot for the comment and the tip! I'll annotate the vid so people know.
@RobH0629 Thanks man. I'll make sure to place this scratch in your back bumper- that way you can have fun fixing it!
only sand in one direction with wet paper -------NOT circles
I have 'Touch Up' brand from Japan,is it has the same ways to use? Thankz
They should teach this shit at school and invent devices so anyone can do it easily. I had a mobile company (they go to your work or house) and they can do paint touchups etc in less then a few hours. None of this wait a full day for clear coat to dry. Proper paintjob very fast
wet sanding is a better way to sand the paint and also the repair before painting...like the guy said below, lots of water...
Thanks a lot man! Ya it took two tries, but it finally looks good! I hate how black always shows everything, but I love the way it looks.
Hey thanks for the comment! I'm not totally sure if there are different methods for metallic paints. I'd place the touch up in the same manner if it was me, but you may want to do a little research to see if you can get an even more ideal finished product. Good luck man!
You need to thinly layer metallic paints on so they don't dry darker that the original. I learned that the hard way and am now waiting for the redo to dry. (Totally chomping at the bit to get this small stone chip done) Metallic paint is a test of patience. You input in this video was very helpful. Thank you.
hey Guy.I just got a Ford f150 x.l. 2016.Theres this like wavy lines on gas cover & underneath the door by ground how can I smooth it out to look like the other paint?almost looks like they didn't finish something with paint from factory? Compound wax I was thinking?The truck is black by the way.
Hint, if you want to destroy your clear coat go ahead and use that sandpaper! Some people just shouldn't make instructional videos. And what was that Turtle Wax? Specifically NOT recommended for clear coat! Use a high quality 3m ultra finishing polish.
Ha, that's funny. I thought it looked pretty good in person. I sold the car recently:( It was time, ha.
LOL lucky I will learn from you mistakes,Id be pist if that was my car ... thanks for the video non the less ! =)
Scratched my cousin's car today , broke his mirror too ,feeling like shit
Nice job, Rich. Three questions:
1. you mentioned that this is the bumper, which is likely a plastic. use the same technique on metal?
2. I have a black BMW with many chips on the front. Some of the chips show an exposed white color while others show an exposed reddish color.. same technique and products on both?
3. what do you think of using a paint stick rather than a brush.?
Thanks for the video and tips.
A month ago I had someone key both passenger doors of my car. One side has 4 very deep long scratches & the other side has around 30 or so bad scratch marks covering half the car door. I don't know who or even why someone did this but it's very upsetting. Bc there are a lot I'm not sure the same method would work for me? I have looked at many videos and gather I need touch up paint matching my car color (red), filler paint, 3,000 grit sandpaper, & a buffer. Any tips on how I can go about fixing it myself would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Is there any reason you wouldn't want to place painters tape to contain the surface area that is being sanded?
nice job. use a soft block for back up block on 2000 or 2500 more uniform sanding. always straight strokes done this way you can actually buff by hand with a pro diminishing polish and micro fiber cloth with nice results. avoid circular sanding. using bare fingers causes irregular sanding which makes buffing more difficult. always soak wet sand paper for min 30 minutes prior to use...makes it more flexible less irregular scratches...use a few drops of liquid soap for lube in bucket of water
@MrMollywopper1904 Thanks a lot man! I'm very happy as well...I can barely notice it.
Even though you sanded more than was required, if you'd used a foam pad on a DA polisher with Meguiars 105 compound that haziness would have gone. Skip the hand polishing stage and go straight to the 105. It will take out scratches for 1200 grit though I would have used 3000. But in the spot that you went though the base coat there's nothing to do but repaint
@adamrc27 Thanks for the comment! Ya it definitely was a learning experience.
Thanks for making this video. My car got scratched while sitting in the parking lot and I totally freaked me out (new car!). After watching your detailed video, I'm now in the process of fixing this myself. I'm not finished yet, but thanks to you, I know have a clear plan of action on how to fix it. Plus I can take care of small chips in my car from random rocks and such. Great job!
Awesome!
Hi good video , was very informal to watch. I tried your method but I think I was to harsh on the sanding. My car door looks very hazzy even after adding the wax. Dilemma..can you please advise me. Thanks
I think Denise meant she would be pissed if someone hit her car. It looked fine afterwards.
Should use a variable speed buffer, not an orbital buffer. Use low speed when compounding and higher speed when polishing. Make sure you keep the buffer moving or you will burn threw paint. Doing this will make a world of difference.
I have a very small (2 inch) scratch on a side body panel of my car and have watched your video about 4 times and will try it out later today and tomorrow. Like I said, a much smaller repair but I'll let you know if it worked. Thanks!
Good video, my only suggestion is to use polish between the compound and wax. If you still have haziness go back to the Polish and then wax again. If it's still there then go back to the compound then polish then wax.
Nice! Thanks for the comment.
I thought the only time you would need to use primer is if the scratch was showing bare metal, if not just make sure that the area is clean from any wax or contaminants before applying your touch-up paint. The clean, degreased original primer should be ok for a good paint adhesion. Try and rub out the scratch first with compound to see if the scratch even went through your clear coat, if not, you might be able to just buff it with compound and polish.
I've use a 320 sandpaper instead of 3000 by mistake and I left scratches around the original scratch. how can I make it look as before? Thank you
so to be clear: I can use my Meguiars Ultimate compound applied with a buffind pad instead of the 3000 grit sandpaper? and this would be done after applying paint/clearcoat and before waxing the area?
@gyurxi551 Hey thanks! Ya sorry I can't help you there. Thanks for watching!
😻😻😻😻😻! I did that to my front driver bumper side and back passenger side. Easy fix! Thank you!!
And also if you are sanding by hand start with sanding perpendicular to the scratch at a 45 degree angle to fold the sides of the valleys in the scratch over...then when u step up to a higher grit to refine go in circular motions to hit the scratch from all angles...then compound...then polish...then wax
Hi, so just recently some asshole decided to scratch my car with a key and I was wondering how would I know if I need primer in the scratch
Primer bonds better to metal than paint does, thus it primes the surface... If the scratch is deep enough and goes to the metal, you need primer for sure. If you can see the original primer, paint alone should be fine. My car is black, the primer under is grey, as long as I don't see metal or rust I just use paint.
a buffer with some auto motive compound would remove those scratches , if the scaratches are only on the clear,but if those scratches have penetrated the paint or base coat color well, thats another story, for u newibies that dont know whats goin on.
great video 11 years later! this is still one of the very best videos on blending crappy touch up paint out there. thank you
To reduce the amount of sanding I think 1 layer of paint to give the colour then fill with clear. Then sand level. With your method I believe by the time youv'e sanded the clear flush you've removed it.
You don't have to fill the scratch with paint. You shouldn't. The original surface has clear coat on it, so you should fill the rest of the scratch with clear, and then level it.
Get a sanding block and sand at a diagonal angle and sand like you are stacking dimes
Thanks bro, I am ordering some touch up for my pickup. Wasn't quite sure how to do such a small amount of paint. I'm glad some experts chipped in too in the comments! Good work
The 2nd video is an improvement. The rubbing alchohol trick helped me to removed the dirt and grime, showing the real paint underneath which I thought was a scratch.
Keep it up and thanks for the tips.