Thank you sir. I get that there are times to do the full monty. It's a 2007; that's 17 years old and this thing has seen better days, albeit it is in pretty good shape. My drive belt lasted 18 years; do you really think I give a rats behind how to do things perfect? I've limped this thing along for years, and am happy as heck to get help like this that takes me from wondering should I give this a shot, let the thing remain dead, or take it to a pro. Thank you for helping me cross that bridge sir. Happy to say I've got a 2011 minivan with 341,000 miles on it for all the doubters saying you have to do things "the right way". I promise you I haven't done things the right way, but I have been lucky enough to do them a pretty good way. And it's from folks like you giving great information along the way. I hope you have a wonderful day when you read this, knowing that you helped some rando stranger. Who also hails from Wisconsin. All the best, sir.
I have a LT1550. Instead of bending the tabs out and risking bending the pulley, I just remove the four engine mount bolts. Then you can just slide the engine around enough to get the belt on and then put the 4 bolts back in. It was tremendously easier than trying to get the pulley off.
That’s what my plan is this winter with that lawnmower. I’ll yank the engine and get the pulley off of it. The tabs were already bent out when I got it and the pulley was already damaged. They just don’t make them the way they used to lol
I watched your vid. and then changed out the drive belt with confidence. The Cub was out and hard at work after only a couple of hours. Btw , I 'started' the pulley removal using a three arm puller. I was gentle. I sure did not want a bent up pulley like yours. Anyhow, it just slid off, easy-peasy. Thanks for the great help.
You’re welcome. When you put the pulley back on you may want to put some anti-seize on it. I’m guessing it will help. My other video with a newer Cub the pulley came right off too. I’m glad it helped you out.
Perfect tutorial. Thank you so much for posting this. Once I had it hoisted, It took me half an hour to get the job done. My 2006 LT 1050 is running like new again. I’d offer my two cents on what you should have told us differently but I got nothing. Everything went well. I hoisted it up. I use an air hammer to get the clutch off and then I put the new belt on. Thank you
It’s ok. I should do a better version just to be super clear and precise. This was earlier in my UA-cam videos and I am much better now. I’m glad it helped you out and thank you for the compliment.
@pilgrimsgarage my LT1050 shredded the belt yesterday and I was looking underneath trying to figure out the procedure. Your video saved me a lot of time, although I have the same issue with the pulley.
@computertech5924 you’re welcome. It’s a bit of a crude video because it was early in my UA-cam career but hopefully it helps people out. Thank you again.
Help! When I went to pull the clutch assy off, the lower half came off quite easily. But the upper half seems to be stuck onto the shaft. How can I get it off without mangling it?
Possibly with a few raps with a hammer on the sides to possibly jar it a little loose. Maybe try to spray down the center shaft with penetrating lubricant. The last option would be trying to use a 3 way puller to get it off the shaft. Honestly, I’ve never had the clutch assembly split like that…hopefully it’s ok.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thanks for your reply. I've been tapping on it with a block of wood, and then out of frustration, with steel. (don't have any brasws lying around'" I tried a little heat but am afraid of burning up anything electrical Don't have a puller that size. The thing is on there real tight. Probably rusted.
@michaelmadison8100 I will try that next time. I actually have to change my 1050 drive belt again this winter. My pulley came right off when I did it a couple years ago ( also made a video but it wasn’t descriptive enough). Hopefully mine comes off again
Ty 4 the video but removing that spring created a job that wasn't necessary. Pressing in the clutch,/brake pedal will remove tension from the belt until you release it
you REALLY left that 30+ pound clutch hang from not only the wires, but the special male/female connections? How hard is it to disconnect the clutch 'pigtale' connection at the side frame of the engine? OH BOY!
Nice video, you got most steps correct, next time leave the pto alone and just undo the engine mounting bolts. You can slide the engine all over the place and it makes life really simple. Have a great day and enjoy future endeavors.
I’m not sure what belt I got. If you look under your seat you should have your vin number there. I took my vin number to my local Cub dealer and got one there. I apologize for not knowing or showing which belt I used… there are so many different sizes.
you need to replace the pulley will only cause problems later and the tabs back where belong gone that far nows time to fix it right for the time and price of belt
It actually worked just fine for the rest of the season. Replacing the pulley will be relatively difficult but I’m thinking it would be the best option too. I have a different Cub that when I changed that drive belt it came off with no issues. When he brings it back over, I will be sure to make a video on it. Thank you.
Unfortunately, if you don't have an impact driver, you're screwed. It looks like if the manufacturer had provided an extra 1/8" clearance to the steering assembly, you could slip the v-belt over the entire clutch assembly?
Yes that is an unfortunate fact. Cub Cadet has really gone down hill since MTD took over. Impacts are relatively inexpensive though. They can save you a fair amount of heartache.
@@pilgrimsgarage Well, as it is, I noticed the crankshaft has flats on it. I found an open end wrench, not the exact correct size, but it did enable me to hold the crankshaft while wrenching off the bolt that holds the clutch assy. Thanks for your reply.
That PTO is extremely heavy and expensive.Never hang the PTO by its wires. You risk damaging the wire connection at the PTO. Just un plug at the connector.
Everyone with this kind of video starts by saying the pulley SHOULD come off, but it never does. Disappointed this video didn't show an actual solution, just the same work-around. I wonder if a heat gun or even a torch combined with penetrating oil would help. Also, before tipping mower so much (or even standing on its back end), remove the battery to avoid possibility of leaking through vents.
I don’t often complain on UA-cam videos. But you didn’t give a good video of the alignment of the belt through the idler pulleys. Your hands were in the way the entire time then you moved on
Yeah I won’t lie, you’re probably right. I was relatively new at doing videos when I did this one and I don’t think I did a very good job. I do have another video on my channel where I changed one and you can see the belt placement better but it wasn’t as descriptive as this one. I should probably do a better one on my 1050. I appreciate the criticism… it’s deserved. Sorry for the inadequacy.
Thank you sir. I get that there are times to do the full monty. It's a 2007; that's 17 years old and this thing has seen better days, albeit it is in pretty good shape. My drive belt lasted 18 years; do you really think I give a rats behind how to do things perfect? I've limped this thing along for years, and am happy as heck to get help like this that takes me from wondering should I give this a shot, let the thing remain dead, or take it to a pro. Thank you for helping me cross that bridge sir. Happy to say I've got a 2011 minivan with 341,000 miles on it for all the doubters saying you have to do things "the right way". I promise you I haven't done things the right way, but I have been lucky enough to do them a pretty good way. And it's from folks like you giving great information along the way. I hope you have a wonderful day when you read this, knowing that you helped some rando stranger. Who also hails from Wisconsin. All the best, sir.
The best reply I’ve ever gotten. Thank you…it is going to make my day!
Hey just wanted to thank you. Your video definitely helped me out. People like you really are the best.
You’re welcome. I’m glad it helped you out. I’ve used many videos myself 😉. Thank you again for the compliment.
Yes thats the best. Thankyou. Happy new year
Nice,very informative video!!!!
I have a LT1550. Instead of bending the tabs out and risking bending the pulley, I just remove the four engine mount bolts. Then you can just slide the engine around enough to get the belt on and then put the 4 bolts back in. It was tremendously easier than trying to get the pulley off.
That’s what my plan is this winter with that lawnmower. I’ll yank the engine and get the pulley off of it. The tabs were already bent out when I got it and the pulley was already damaged. They just don’t make them the way they used to lol
@@pilgrimsgarageI would have replaced that damaged pulley
THAT PULLY NEVER COMES OFF,BEND THE TABS WITH A GOOD VICE GRIP AND PRY BAR! Hammer back to keep new belt on!
I watched your vid. and then changed out the drive belt with confidence. The Cub was out and hard at work after only a couple of hours. Btw , I 'started' the pulley removal using a three arm puller. I was gentle. I sure did not want a bent up pulley like yours. Anyhow, it just slid off, easy-peasy.
Thanks for the great help.
You’re welcome. When you put the pulley back on you may want to put some anti-seize on it. I’m guessing it will help. My other video with a newer Cub the pulley came right off too. I’m glad it helped you out.
Perfect tutorial. Thank you so much for posting this. Once I had it hoisted, It took me half an hour to get the job done. My 2006 LT 1050 is running like new again. I’d offer my two cents on what you should have told us differently but I got nothing. Everything went well. I hoisted it up. I use an air hammer to get the clutch off and then I put the new belt on. Thank you
Thank you for the compliment. I’m very glad it helped you out. Cheers!
Informative video, thanks for sharing it!
It’s ok. I should do a better version just to be super clear and precise. This was earlier in my UA-cam videos and I am much better now. I’m glad it helped you out and thank you for the compliment.
@pilgrimsgarage my LT1050 shredded the belt yesterday and I was looking underneath trying to figure out the procedure. Your video saved me a lot of time, although I have the same issue with the pulley.
Should mention the locking tab when reinstalling the clutch but thank you for the info!
Didn’t I? I thought I did.
Good job on straightening/cleaning the pulley but those tabs are there for a reason, its to keep the belt on.
Any idea what the part number is for the tensioner spring?
That I can’t help you with but a local dealer should be able to
Is this still the same with the year 2004?
Yes it should be. Get your vin number under your seat when you order your belt and you should be golden
@pilgrimsgarage thank you
@computertech5924 you’re welcome. It’s a bit of a crude video because it was early in my UA-cam career but hopefully it helps people out. Thank you again.
Help! When I went to pull the clutch assy off, the lower half came off quite easily. But the upper half seems to be stuck onto the shaft. How can I get it off without mangling it?
Possibly with a few raps with a hammer on the sides to possibly jar it a little loose. Maybe try to spray down the center shaft with penetrating lubricant. The last option would be trying to use a 3 way puller to get it off the shaft.
Honestly, I’ve never had the clutch assembly split like that…hopefully it’s ok.
@@pilgrimsgarage Thanks for your reply. I've been tapping on it with a block of wood, and then out of frustration, with steel. (don't have any brasws lying around'" I tried a little heat but am afraid of burning up anything electrical Don't have a puller that size. The thing is on there real tight. Probably rusted.
I have a mower with this same problem, but mine was so bad I had to cut it off. Do you happen to know the part number for a replacement pulley?
No I don’t I’m sorry. You might be able to get a part number through Cub Cadet. Just be sure to have your vin number… it should be under your seat.
U should try using a map gas torch and heat the pully up till its glowing then itll come rite off
I thought of that but would it ruin the crank seal? It wasn’t my machine so I didn’t do it.
No it doesn't ruin the seal doesn't leak or anything afterwards@@pilgrimsgarage
@michaelmadison8100 I will try that next time. I actually have to change my 1050 drive belt again this winter. My pulley came right off when I did it a couple years ago ( also made a video but it wasn’t descriptive enough). Hopefully mine comes off again
Ty 4 the video but removing that spring created a job that wasn't necessary. Pressing in the clutch,/brake pedal will remove tension from the belt until you release it
Oh crap…you’re right! I never thought of that. Good tip
you REALLY left that 30+ pound clutch hang from not only the wires, but the special male/female connections? How hard is it to disconnect the clutch 'pigtale' connection at the side frame of the engine? OH BOY!
30+lb? You may want to start lifting weights…it can’t weigh but 6-7 lbs.
Nice video, you got most steps correct, next time leave the pto alone and just undo the engine mounting bolts. You can slide the engine all over the place and it makes life really simple. Have a great day and enjoy future endeavors.
Engine won't lift with pto attached, it hits the steering gear.
That is true… I thought that also
Should of applied penetrating oil on the pulley/engine shaft before you reassembled the rest. Antiseize will make the next disassembly a breeze!
That’s exactly what I did with my mower. This was a friend’s mower. Good idea with the penetrating oil though.
Thanks for the video, I have the same tractor and the belt I received was big. Can you give me the name and item number that worked for you? Thanks
I’m not sure what belt I got. If you look under your seat you should have your vin number there. I took my vin number to my local Cub dealer and got one there. I apologize for not knowing or showing which belt I used… there are so many different sizes.
Heat it with a torch or just drain oil and carb , then pull engine and do it right
Do you know how to mount a snow blower on a cub cadet 1861? I can't find any informative videos
I might, I’ve never done it but it can’t be hard
you need to replace the pulley will only cause problems later and the tabs back where belong gone that far nows time to fix it right for the time and price of belt
It actually worked just fine for the rest of the season. Replacing the pulley will be relatively difficult but I’m thinking it would be the best option too. I have a different Cub that when I changed that drive belt it came off with no issues. When he brings it back over, I will be sure to make a video on it. Thank you.
Nice tinners hammer
You’re the only one that would notice that😂. That hammer is 35 years old
How come the belt come off the crank pulley
This one the belt broke. If yours is coming off I’d check alignment or some of the tensioner pulleys. The tabs should hold it on the crank pulley
Unfortunately, if you don't have an impact driver, you're screwed. It looks like if the manufacturer had provided an extra 1/8" clearance to the steering assembly, you could slip the v-belt over the entire clutch assembly?
Yes that is an unfortunate fact. Cub Cadet has really gone down hill since MTD took over. Impacts are relatively inexpensive though. They can save you a fair amount of heartache.
@@pilgrimsgarage Well, as it is, I noticed the crankshaft has flats on it. I found an open end wrench, not the exact correct size, but it did enable me to hold the crankshaft while wrenching off the bolt that holds the clutch assy. Thanks for your reply.
Hey I wonder where that shirt came from lol
That PTO is extremely heavy and expensive.Never hang the PTO by its wires. You risk damaging the wire connection at the PTO. Just un plug at the connector.
Yeah that is true. I’ve done a few of these and as long as there isn’t a shock to the wires, I haven’t had a problem, but point well taken. Thank you
Everyone with this kind of video starts by saying the pulley SHOULD come off, but it never does.
Disappointed this video didn't show an actual solution, just the same work-around.
I wonder if a heat gun or even a torch combined with penetrating oil would help.
Also, before tipping mower so much (or even standing on its back end), remove the battery to avoid possibility of leaking through vents.
My other video shows the pulley coming off. This one didn’t come off.
Lol, step one grab a deer 😅
I don’t often complain on UA-cam videos. But you didn’t give a good video of the alignment of the belt through the idler pulleys. Your hands were in the way the entire time then you moved on
Yeah I won’t lie, you’re probably right. I was relatively new at doing videos when I did this one and I don’t think I did a very good job. I do have another video on my channel where I changed one and you can see the belt placement better but it wasn’t as descriptive as this one. I should probably do a better one on my 1050. I appreciate the criticism… it’s deserved. Sorry for the inadequacy.
All good friend! Your video did help me. It still took me 3 hours but I have a broken rib 😂
I could have saved you the time and told you that pulley was never coming off, lol. Ask me how I know...
Can’t blame a brother for trying 😉
Easier to remove battery, and remove fan and pulley at transmission.
Does that work? I’ll have to try that next time. Thanks for the tip