The casting and accessory part making is especially interesting to me. I never really understood the lost wax method until now. A wonderful series. I look forward to every episode. Thank you for the artistic craftsmanship. Your a wonderful and natural teacher - mentor. Thank you.
Very nicely done. The Bonze and SS metal together on the jamb cleat have a great contrastand make it pop. Oh I am going to enjoy seeing this beauty under sail.
That was such an interesting and informative process, I’ve never seen this done before and now the method so clearly shown has removed the mystery of how this is done and thank you. The sculptor in you was also evident as you shaped the pieces of wax to a pleasing shape prior to casting which is a nice touch, then the careful polishing to get that beautiful end product i could almost feel the shapes of.
Wow Bob! The lost wax method for casting was really interesting and helped you produce the most complicated casting in this playlist. When you hit that cam cleat base with the polish wheel and showed it to the camera it was a WOW moment. Nicely done Bob, another beautiful addition to the Haven. Thanks for sharing!
Amazing how effortless he makes it seem. Build an entire boat? No problem. Next video: how to make your own lines for the running rigging and how to make traditional standing rigging. For a challenge, he'll do it out eyelashes.
Bob, I oft watched each video twice, as they are informative and entertaining, even through building a boat is not on my list of projects! It’s just a pleasure to watch each episode. Your are a true artist!
Hi Bob... That cam cleat assembly is supposed to pivot on an axis.. like the one you bought, so you can ease and haul the sheet from pretty much anywhere in the cockpit -not just from the tiller area- and so the fairlead can always face the boom as it swings port and starboard. You'll see what I mean when you go to use it.
Another excellent episode Bob. You manage to keep them coming week after week and give us the opportunity to learn something new every time. Have always been interested in the lost wax type of casting as I knew several sculptors who used this process for many of their pieces. Thank you very much and have a great week ahead.
Bob those parts came out looking great. When I first saw the cam cleat I thought WOW he is going to machine the cams but dang if you didn't out smart me there. Love the fact you used the ones from the store bought cleat. The boat is coming right along.
One of the biggest differences between your channel and other boat builds is that your work looks amazing even close up, while most others keep the camera at a distance.
Hey Bob, I'm a Patron and have been a Subscriber since the very beginning. If "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" means anything, consider yourself flattered. I'm starting a build series for a Welsford Navigator. My videos won't be as good as yours, but hopefully the build will turn out well. I'm also seriously thinking about casting some custom parts for the build. We'll see. I'm also incorporating CNC into my build as another twist. This will be my 3rd boat build. Take care.
Such great work - you're an absolute craftsman and artist. I do castings in silicone and resin for small toys and trinkets, and its amazing to see it done as lost wax. Noticed you use a lot of slotted screws. While you've obviously got drivers that do the job well, if you haven't tried PB Swiss slotted drivers, you should try them out someday. Rounded corners and straight sides that fit perfectly in the screw head. They're an absolute joy to use.
Beautiful work, Bob. And thanks for the lessons. I'm curious why you chose not to install the mainsheet cleat on a swivel. Seems like that would have been the easiest part of the project. Would love to know your thinking on that. Looking forward to mast-making. Cheers
Hi Rick, Given the way the Haven 12 1/2 is rigged there is no need for it to swivel. I've sailed Haven and Herreshoff 12 1/2's some had modern swivels and some not I experience no difference it the handling of the main sheet. Thanks for watching! Bob
I think you may find that you need to re-rig you fairlead and cam cleat once you start sailing. The main sheet being led aft toward the tiller is probably going to be fairly awkward , as the tiller will prevent you from being able to get your body in line with the sheet. It will also prevent anyone but the helmsman (or someone sitting to leeward) from being able to handle the main sheet. The swivel that came on the Hobie hardware you used as a template is there specifically to address these problems. I suspect you will also want a turning block to redirect the sheet coming down from the boom into the fairlead on the cam cleat to reduce friction, if you haven’t already made plans for that. If you do use a turning block, centering it on the pivot point of the cam cleat assembly will help keep it balanced.
Thomas, though I appreciate your comment, the Hobbie Cat is an entirely different boat. The Haven 12 1/2 is rigged completely differently. As the main sheet comes off the traveler it is redirected by a couple of sheaves to be directly over the centerboard to the location of the cleat. The senecio you described is not possible in a Haven 12 1/2. This is why there is no need for a swivel. I have sailed in both a Haven 12 1/2 and a Herreshoff 12 1/2 some had a modern swivel and some not. There was no effect on sailing with or without. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Hi Bob, I can understand where you are coming from, as well as the differences in rigging between the Hobie and 12 1/2. I’ve had the opportunity to work on a number of herreshoff 12 1/2s over the past 20 years, and based my comment on my own experience and preference when sailing small boats like this. Your approach will certainly be functional, and may present no meaningful issues at all. One of the great things about building your own boat is you can do with it as you please, and if you decide you don’t like something you can change it. Best, Tom
Hi Carl, Thanks! See my reply to John Eastman's comment. There are several more moving parts than need to be cast and machined. Thanks for watching, Bob
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I think that you will want to allow it to swivel. You are going to seat on the sides or even ahead of the cam cleat and it will be hard to lock it from that position.
Hi Ofer, Thanks you, I'm happy you've enjoyed the video. I've had the opportunity to sail several Haven 12 1/2s over several seasons at the Wooden Boat School in Brooklin, ME. While seated either port or starboard the helmsman is very close to the mainsheet cleat. You can clearly see, while I demonstrated the cleat, that I'm almost on top of it. 30:21 It's very easy to adjust the main sheet from either side. There would be no reason a helmsman would be seated "ahead of the cam cleat". As I've mention in other comments, that because of the way the Haven is rigged, there is no need for the cleat to swivel. In the end it is my boat and I am happy with the setup. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Bob
Really fantastic process, Bob! Amazing work!!! 😃 But I couldn't work with it... I wouldn't want to break the form! 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It's really fascinating, but you lost me at 4:29 when it was spurred and gated in the vestment tree... It reminds me of Monty Python, "One of the flay rod's gone out of skew on tredle!"
The craftsmanship throughout this build has been a wonder to behold. I do think that you have gone a little overboard on the main camcleat assembly though; a commercially bought one would have been more than adequate. Also personally I prefer to lead my mainsheet through a block rather than through a metal hoop.
I think the point of these castings is quite evident at this point and it is that he enjoys it. He could have sourced most if not all of the hardware for this build. This is art.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Ah. I have a clay plate at the bottom it sits on. It broke though =( Appreciate the video. Am just reaching the point of wanting to cast something after having melted down aluminum, copper. And made brass and bronze. Getting boring making ingots over and over haha. ;)
Good Question! At 6:26 you can see the inside of the burnout kiln. Notice that the floor of the kiln is open and has a steel grate. This allows the majority of the wax to melt out. It's caught by a metal tray with a water bath to catch the wax, which can be reclaimed. The remaining 10% or so does get vaporized. The high temperature guarantees that the remaining soot and ash are completely burned out for a clean mold ready for pouring. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
It is interesting that the Lost Wax Method has been around for centuries, yet some Hi-Tech Gas Turbine Aero engine manufactures still us this method to make Turbine Blades for Jet engines
Amazing work as usual! I am curious where you went to do the casting. I don't live in the same area as you. I am on the east coast but would like to find a foundry to do similar work.
This was at Bradley University in Peoria,IL. Check out your local colleges and universities that teach bronze casting in their art departments. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Gary has the answer. I didn’t want an overhanging obstacle that could be hit as when moving from port to starboard ( or visa versa) while tacking. I also thought the bend made it more interesting. Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding it is hard to tell from video, it looked like it overhung a bit of the trunk that slopes. I agree with no knee bangers. Thank you kindly.
Hi John, I could have remade the cams in bronze. The way I would have done it would be to make a flexible mold from the cam part. With those molds I would have pour in wax and then cast them in bronze. So why didn't I do that. First it would have been a long process with very little return, other than being a different color. I actually like the contrast of the silver color and the bronze. Though it doesn't show, by the magic of video editing, this project was almost 2 months in the making.(you can even see me with a face mask before the mandate was lifted at the University) Given all the other projects left to finish the boat( I'd like to have her finished for the Wooden Boat Show in late June) I couldn't justify the time to cast the cams. There are many other movable parts to cast and fabricate. Thanks for your question and watching! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks Bob. It is so fascinating watching the process of this Haven project come together. Here in Rhode Island, I get to see many different sailboats out on our bay. At 85, I'm no longer sailing but have to live vicariously through UA-cam and wooden boat building channels such as yours.
Will the cam cleat do double duty when you need the centerboard to be up for trailering? How will you keep the centerboard partially up for running, or do you do that with a 12 1/2? I remember doing that with my Townie to go give it a boost of speed.
Hi Peter, No, the cam cleat won’t be used to hold the centerboard. There will be clevis pin through the centerboard truck to hold it in its respective position. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Hi Sailor Jim, You can apply at this link: calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building We'll have about a 30 minute call to see if you are a good fit. I'll be looking forward to speaking with you. Bob
@@johnstarkie9948 On the contrary, that cam cleat is genuine art. But Bob is a sculptor who realised works of art on exhibit all over the globe. It is that kind of art work I was referring to.
One comment on your studio at the college. Now I’m an energy expert, and it doesn’t take an expert to see just how much energy that studio uses! Hoping the radicals don’t shut it down….
Hi John, I assume your comment is a question. Bow Chock: A chock with two arms which are bent over and nearly touch in the middle: placed at the bow of the boat, used to keep the mooring-rope in place. Saddle: A block of wood fixed to a mast or a yard to support another spar attached to it. Fairlead: A device to guide a line, rope or cable around an object, out of the way or to stop it from moving laterally. So yes, a Bow Chock or the loop at the fore of the cam cleat can be called a fairlead. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Hi Peter, There is very little concern of galvanic action. Silicon bronze (655) and passive 304 stainless are next to each other on the nobility scale so no worries about galvanic corrosion if you use those two alloys. Many high quality rigging screws (turnbuckles) use stainless screws and bronze bodies to prevent galling. With stainless to stainless the two parts gall which means they will get stuck. Therefore, in a moving part, like the cam cleat, the bronze and stainless work together better than stainless with stainless. Thanks for your question and watching. Cheers, Bob
Hi JP, I really would just be guessing on the hours spent. The great thing about doing what you love, time just isn't a factor. That said the video was shoot over a 2 month period of time while doing other projects. The Haven is rigged is such a way that the swivel isn't needed. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
Bob, I really enjoy your channel and appreciate your project but unfortunately you missed a very important part of the cam cleat. These cleats need to swivel (as the original part does) so that you can trim the mainsheet as you sit athwartship. As you have it now, you'll only be able to pull the sheet directly aft which will be difficult and impractical underway. 10 out of 10 for craftsmanship, 1 out of 10 for understanding how the boat will work under sail.
Hi Dave, I'm glad you are enjoying the channel. You must not be familiar with sailing a Haven 12 1/2. I've had the opportunity to sail several Havens over several seasons at the Wooden Boat School in Brooklin, ME. While seated either port or starboard the helmsman is very close to the mainsheet cleat. You can clearly see, while I demonstrated the cleat, that I'm almost on top of it. 30:21 It's very easy to adjust the main sheet from either side. To suggest that the cleat needs to swivel "as the original part does" is a misunderstanding of the two different boats. The cleat came from a Hobie Cat which is an un-ballasted catamaran that does not have a cockpit. www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/17029304821867201/ It could not be a more different boat than the Haven 12 1/2. So I respectfully disagree with your assessment. In the end it is my boat and I am happy with the setup. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Bob
Great video…. But, search “Angle grinder kick-back injuries” Hold those firmly with two hands!! Also, beautiful cleat. You might want to grease the mechanism and threads well so as to avoid corrosion that can virtually weld the bits together.
Hi Chris, You are correct it is simpler but not better. For the benefit of others, lost-foam is when the pattern is made of polystyrene ( think disposable coffee cup) is the invested in a mold and the hot metal is poured directly on the foam resulting the the foam vaporizing and one is left with the image in metal. Lost-foam casting offers several benefits, one of which is ease of use. Most casting processes are complex and require over a half-dozen steps. Lost-foam casting is relatively simple and straightforward. Generally used when casting aluminum. On the other hand, the castings created by lost-foam casting aren’t particularly strong. With their low strength, they are naturally susceptible to damage, such as fracturing and breaking, when stressed. ( not ideal for rigging parts) They also lack detail unlike lost wax where a fingerprint can be cast. Having done lost-foam casting in the past the biggest drawback, for me, is the thick black toxic smoke that is generated while the foam is burning. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob
I think you should have explained all the pieces you were making. At the beginning it was explained you were just molding the plate and that's all. Then you see this piece you don't recognize. Make it clearer please if theres a next time.
Hi Melinda, I do explain what the other parts are (Bow Chocks and Boom Crutch Socket). As I mentioned at the end of the video that I would show their completing and installation in an up coming video. In the mean time here are some definitions: Bow Chock: In marine hardware, a chock with two arms which are bent over and nearly touch in the middle: used on yachts to keep the mooring-rope in place.To be efficient in casting parts it prudent to include several parts in one mold. Boom Crutch Socket: Is a cast bronze fitting to securely hold square wooden boom crutch, which hold the boom in place when not sailing. Thanks for watching and stay tuned ti see them installed! Cheers, ob
The casting and accessory part making is especially interesting to me. I never really understood the lost wax method until now. A wonderful series. I look forward to every episode. Thank you for the artistic craftsmanship. Your a wonderful and natural teacher - mentor. Thank you.
Each and every individual bit of this boat is its own art project. Love it!
I don't know if it's you or the algorithm, but I but the foundry has been on my mind.
Very nicely done. The Bonze and SS metal together on the jamb cleat have a great contrastand make it pop. Oh I am going to enjoy seeing this beauty under sail.
Beautiful result. Wilcox Crittenden would have been proud of you.
That was such an interesting and informative process, I’ve never seen this done before and now the method so clearly shown has removed the mystery of how this is done and thank you. The sculptor in you was also evident as you shaped the pieces of wax to a pleasing shape prior to casting which is a nice touch, then the careful polishing to get that beautiful end product i could almost feel the shapes of.
Beautiful cleat. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for making each episode so pleasant to watch.
Beautiful part and a beautiful boat.
Bob, you do make it beautiful. Thanks dude.
Wow Bob! The lost wax method for casting was really interesting and helped you produce the most complicated casting in this playlist. When you hit that cam cleat base with the polish wheel and showed it to the camera it was a WOW moment. Nicely done Bob, another beautiful addition to the Haven. Thanks for sharing!
Amazing how effortless he makes it seem. Build an entire boat? No problem.
Next video: how to make your own lines for the running rigging and how to make traditional standing rigging. For a challenge, he'll do it out eyelashes.
Plus ALL paints and varnishes.
@@jpkatz1435 And raise the bees to make beeswax
I admire your patience and craftsmanship, Bob, having such a beautiful creation I would be tempted to rush to get out out sailing.
Thanks, happy you’re enjoying the videos. Looking putting her in the water!
Bob, I oft watched each video twice, as they are informative and entertaining, even through building a boat is not on my list of projects! It’s just a pleasure to watch each episode. Your are a true artist!
Nice Job Bob on Casting that Cam Cleat. Look's perfect appears to work really well as well. Cheers. Have a good week. Bob.
Again this is a nice piece of work. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Bob... That cam cleat assembly is supposed to pivot on an axis.. like the one you bought, so you can ease and haul the sheet from pretty much anywhere in the cockpit -not just from the tiller area- and so the fairlead can always face the boom as it swings port and starboard. You'll see what I mean when you go to use it.
Your dexterity with materials is amazing, masterfully done.
Always a pleasure to watch a master craftsman at work!
Your craftsmanship is amazing.
Beautiful work!
I love the attention to detail, and the quality of the work. Fascinating, and very satisfying to watch.
Another excellent episode Bob. You manage to keep them coming week after week and give us the opportunity to learn something new every time. Have always been interested in the lost wax type of casting as I knew several sculptors who used this process for many of their pieces. Thank you very much and have a great week ahead.
Bob those parts came out looking great. When I first saw the cam cleat I thought WOW he is going to machine the cams but dang if you didn't out smart me there. Love the fact you used the ones from the store bought cleat. The boat is coming right along.
I am really looking forward to the launch and sea trial...what a beautiful project!
Beautiful work Bob. I always look forward to your videos.
New subscriber, via Acorn to Arabella. Looking forward to episodes on the sailing dinghy Victoria. 👍
Welcome aboard!
That....is a piece of art. Thank you for sharing this with us.
It looks like it's got such a nice " hand feel" to use. 👌
Amazing skills!
Amazed after every episode. It is a pleasure to watch you create such nautical beauty.
Thanks Bob I learnt a lot from the lost wax method. Great outcome on the cam cleat
Glad you enjoyed it
This was great! I'm excited for that next episode you mentioned about the boom and spars.
One of the biggest differences between your channel and other boat builds is that your work looks amazing even close up, while most others keep the camera at a distance.
Beautiful attention to detail.
Hey Bob, I'm a Patron and have been a Subscriber since the very beginning. If "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" means anything, consider yourself flattered. I'm starting a build series for a Welsford Navigator. My videos won't be as good as yours, but hopefully the build will turn out well. I'm also seriously thinking about casting some custom parts for the build. We'll see. I'm also incorporating CNC into my build as another twist. This will be my 3rd boat build. Take care.
I could always use another boat building channel to watch... I'll be right over to check yours out.
Incredible workmanship, well done. You make master craftsmanship look easy!
Thanks!
Another great one Bob. Thanks.
Looking at the casting: it’s a piece of art unto itself….
Thanks Timothy!
Lovely! You'll want to pull the sheet back slightly before lifting it out of the cams- That will prevent chafing the line.
nice channel. enjoyed the craftmanship.
Lovely work, I really enjoyed watching, until the end.
nice project
Fascinatingly beautiful 😉
another piece of art!
Such great work - you're an absolute craftsman and artist. I do castings in silicone and resin for small toys and trinkets, and its amazing to see it done as lost wax. Noticed you use a lot of slotted screws. While you've obviously got drivers that do the job well, if you haven't tried PB Swiss slotted drivers, you should try them out someday. Rounded corners and straight sides that fit perfectly in the screw head. They're an absolute joy to use.
Beautiful work, Bob. And thanks for the lessons. I'm curious why you chose not to install the mainsheet cleat on a swivel. Seems like that would have been the easiest part of the project. Would love to know your thinking on that. Looking forward to mast-making. Cheers
Hi Rick, Given the way the Haven 12 1/2 is rigged there is no need for it to swivel. I've sailed Haven and Herreshoff 12 1/2's some had modern swivels and some not I experience no difference it the handling of the main sheet.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks Bob.
Why is the so exciting
I think you may find that you need to re-rig you fairlead and cam cleat once you start sailing. The main sheet being led aft toward the tiller is probably going to be fairly awkward , as the tiller will prevent you from being able to get your body in line with the sheet. It will also prevent anyone but the helmsman (or someone sitting to leeward) from being able to handle the main sheet. The swivel that came on the Hobie hardware you used as a template is there specifically to address these problems. I suspect you will also want a turning block to redirect the sheet coming down from the boom into the fairlead on the cam cleat to reduce friction, if you haven’t already made plans for that. If you do use a turning block, centering it on the pivot point of the cam cleat assembly will help keep it balanced.
Thomas, though I appreciate your comment, the Hobbie Cat is an entirely different boat. The Haven 12 1/2 is rigged completely differently. As the main sheet comes off the traveler it is redirected by a couple of sheaves to be directly over the centerboard to the location of the cleat. The senecio you described is not possible in a Haven 12 1/2. This is why there is no need for a swivel. I have sailed in both a Haven 12 1/2 and a Herreshoff 12 1/2 some had a modern swivel and some not. There was no effect on sailing with or without.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Hi Bob,
I can understand where you are coming from, as well as the differences in rigging between the Hobie and 12 1/2. I’ve had the opportunity to work on a number of herreshoff 12 1/2s over the past 20 years, and based my comment on my own experience and preference when sailing small boats like this. Your approach will certainly be functional, and may present no meaningful issues at all. One of the great things about building your own boat is you can do with it as you please, and if you decide you don’t like something you can change it.
Best,
Tom
really nice
Brilliant!
Amazing work. I was hoping you would machine the cam.
Hi Carl, Thanks! See my reply to John Eastman's comment. There are several more moving parts than need to be cast and machined.
Thanks for watching,
Bob
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I think that you will want to allow it to swivel. You are going to seat on the sides or even ahead of the cam cleat and it will be hard to lock it from that position.
Hi Ofer,
Thanks you, I'm happy you've enjoyed the video. I've had the opportunity to sail several Haven 12 1/2s over several seasons at the Wooden Boat School in Brooklin, ME. While seated either port or starboard the helmsman is very close to the mainsheet cleat. You can clearly see, while I demonstrated the cleat, that I'm almost on top of it. 30:21 It's very easy to adjust the main sheet from either side. There would be no reason a helmsman would be seated "ahead of the cam cleat". As I've mention in other comments, that because of the way the Haven is rigged, there is no need for the cleat to swivel. In the end it is my boat and I am happy with the setup.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers,
Bob
Really fantastic process, Bob! Amazing work!!! 😃
But I couldn't work with it... I wouldn't want to break the form! 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It's really fascinating, but you lost me at 4:29 when it was spurred and gated in the vestment tree... It reminds me of Monty Python, "One of the flay rod's gone out of skew on tredle!"
The craftsmanship throughout this build has been a wonder to behold. I do think that you have gone a little overboard on the main camcleat assembly though; a commercially bought one would have been more than adequate. Also personally I prefer to lead my mainsheet through a block rather than through a metal hoop.
I think the point of these castings is quite evident at this point and it is that he enjoys it. He could have sourced most if not all of the hardware for this build. This is art.
9:00 What's the benefit of an ash layer under the crucible?
The crucible will not stick to the bottom of the furnace in future firings.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Ah. I have a clay plate at the bottom it sits on. It broke though =( Appreciate the video. Am just reaching the point of wanting to cast something after having melted down aluminum, copper. And made brass and bronze. Getting boring making ingots over and over haha. ;)
We sure wish there were weakly videos…. But understand the amount of work is significant.
Exellent
Can you tell us about the shop you are at? is that a community shop? Love the work!
That is the sculpture studio at Bradley University in Peoria, IL
what a beautifull peace you ve made but..I ask my sef..is silver solder strong enough to withstand the effort it requires?
The 45 Silver Solder I used is rated at 60,000 - 75,000 psi
So the quick answer is Yes!
Hi Bob, this was fun to watch. I’m wondering about the wax being removed from the mould. Is it vaporized and as such “lost wax”?
Good Question! At 6:26 you can see the inside of the burnout kiln. Notice that the floor of the kiln is open and has a steel grate. This allows the majority of the wax to melt out. It's caught by a metal tray with a water bath to catch the wax, which can be reclaimed. The remaining 10% or so does get vaporized. The high temperature guarantees that the remaining soot and ash are completely burned out for a clean mold ready for pouring.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
It is interesting that the Lost Wax Method has been around for centuries, yet some Hi-Tech Gas Turbine Aero engine manufactures still us this method to make Turbine Blades for Jet engines
Amazing work as usual! I am curious where you went to do the casting. I don't live in the same area as you. I am on the east coast but would like to find a foundry to do similar work.
This was at Bradley University in Peoria,IL. Check out your local colleges and universities that teach bronze casting in their art departments.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Absolutely beautiful. I am curious why you didn't extend it over the edge of the centerboard trunk, rather than putting the bends in the part.
I think I know what you mean and I think wouldn’t that make it a possible “knee/leg knocker”? Hopefully, we’ll see a reply.
Gary has the answer. I didn’t want an overhanging obstacle that could be hit as when moving from port to starboard ( or visa versa) while tacking.
I also thought the bend made it more interesting.
Thanks for watching!
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding: thanks for the confirmation…I’ve banged into enough trailer hitches to be painfully aware of such things.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding it is hard to tell from video, it looked like it overhung a bit of the trunk that slopes. I agree with no knee bangers. Thank you kindly.
Please discuss why you didn't make the cams as well as the other parts. Would they be too hard to cast?
Hi John, I could have remade the cams in bronze. The way I would have done it would be to make a flexible mold from the cam part. With those molds I would have pour in wax and then cast them in bronze. So why didn't I do that. First it would have been a long process with very little return, other than being a different color. I actually like the contrast of the silver color and the bronze. Though it doesn't show, by the magic of video editing, this project was almost 2 months in the making.(you can even see me with a face mask before the mandate was lifted at the University)
Given all the other projects left to finish the boat( I'd like to have her finished for the Wooden Boat Show in late June) I couldn't justify the time to cast the cams.
There are many other movable parts to cast and fabricate.
Thanks for your question and watching!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Is there any concern about the stainless and bronze being dissimilar metals in contact with each other?
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks Bob. It is so fascinating watching the process of this Haven project come together. Here in Rhode Island, I get to see many different sailboats out on our bay. At 85, I'm no longer sailing but have to live vicariously through UA-cam and wooden boat building channels such as yours.
What is the advantage of casting vs. machining from billet?
Will the cam cleat do double duty when you need the centerboard to be up for trailering? How will you keep the centerboard partially up for running, or do you do that with a 12 1/2? I remember doing that with my Townie to go give it a boost of speed.
Hi Peter, No, the cam cleat won’t be used to hold the centerboard. There will be clevis pin through the centerboard truck to hold it in its respective position.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Hello Bob, Where do we apply for apprenticeship?
Hi Sailor Jim,
You can apply at this link:
calendly.com/artofboatbuilding/boat-building
We'll have about a 30 minute call to see if you are a good fit.
I'll be looking forward to speaking with you.
Bob
Beautiful cam-cleat. Did you scavenge the cams off the purchased cleat or the antique cleat, or did you make the cams too?
Are the cleat cams metal? How do you plan to handle galvanic potential between the cams and the plate hardware?
Cams are Stainless Steel. SS and bronze are compatible.
Thanks for watching!
hey Bob, how long between dips? A day or two? Looks like the other projects had changed color quite a bit. Thanks!
Hi Michael, the ceramic slurry just air dries. Usually take 2-3 hours.
Thanks for your question and watching.
Cheers,
Again a very nice piece of art, Bob. I wondered if you still find the time to design and fabricate real artwork like you did in the past.
Thanks! I do but not for sale just for me. Much more enjoyable.
@@johnstarkie9948 On the contrary, that cam cleat is genuine art. But Bob is a sculptor who realised works of art on exhibit all over the globe. It is that kind of art work I was referring to.
One comment on your studio at the college. Now I’m an energy expert, and it doesn’t take an expert to see just how much energy that studio uses! Hoping the radicals don’t shut it down….
Very nice work, but why not swivel like the model one, to ease the cleating by the sides?
There is no need for a swivel in the rigging of a Haven 12 1/2
Thanks for Watching!
Bob
Dare I ask how many hours you have into fabricating this part?
For this purpose sand casting is more appropriate than lost wax.
Bow chucks = fairleads
Hoop over cam cleat = saddle
Hi John, I assume your comment is a question.
Bow Chock: A chock with two arms which are bent over and nearly touch in the middle: placed at the bow of the boat, used to keep the mooring-rope in place.
Saddle: A block of wood fixed to a mast or a yard to support another spar attached to it.
Fairlead: A device to guide a line, rope or cable around an object, out of the way or to stop it from moving laterally.
So yes, a Bow Chock or the loop at the fore of the cam cleat can be called a fairlead.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
I never even see these kinds of boats anywhere. I don't think they would go very well on the Great lakes.
Is there a risk that galvanic pair will be created by using two different metals?
Hi Peter, There is very little concern of galvanic action. Silicon bronze (655) and passive 304 stainless are next to each other on the nobility scale so no worries about galvanic corrosion if you use those two alloys. Many high quality rigging screws (turnbuckles) use stainless screws and bronze bodies to prevent galling. With stainless to stainless the two parts gall which means they will get stuck. Therefore, in a moving part, like the cam cleat, the bronze and stainless work together better than stainless with stainless.
Thanks for your question and watching.
Cheers,
Bob
So i can't build cam cleat like this if have no the old one, with those cheeks you have replaced? Isn't it?
1. How many hours from very beginning to completion, less camra setup? 2. Why non swilving?
Hi JP,
I really would just be guessing on the hours spent. The great thing about doing what you love, time just isn't a factor. That said the video was shoot over a 2 month period of time while doing other projects.
The Haven is rigged is such a way that the swivel isn't needed.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks, jp
👌👌
Bob, I really enjoy your channel and appreciate your project but unfortunately you missed a very important part of the cam cleat. These cleats need to swivel (as the original part does) so that you can trim the mainsheet as you sit athwartship. As you have it now, you'll only be able to pull the sheet directly aft which will be difficult and impractical underway. 10 out of 10 for craftsmanship, 1 out of 10 for understanding how the boat will work under sail.
Hi Dave,
I'm glad you are enjoying the channel. You must not be familiar with sailing a Haven 12 1/2. I've had the opportunity to sail several Havens over several seasons at the Wooden Boat School in Brooklin, ME. While seated either port or starboard the helmsman is very close to the mainsheet cleat. You can clearly see, while I demonstrated the cleat, that I'm almost on top of it. 30:21 It's very easy to adjust the main sheet from either side. To suggest that the cleat needs to swivel "as the original part does" is a misunderstanding of the two different boats. The cleat came from a Hobie Cat which is an un-ballasted catamaran that does not have a cockpit. www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/17029304821867201/
It could not be a more different boat than the Haven 12 1/2.
So I respectfully disagree with your assessment. In the end it is my boat and I am happy with the setup.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers,
Bob
Great video…. But, search “Angle grinder kick-back injuries” Hold those firmly with two hands!! Also, beautiful cleat. You might want to grease the mechanism and threads well so as to avoid corrosion that can virtually weld the bits together.
I like it and yet I don't like the sizing of it. It seems overkill for what it is supposed to do.
Sized to LAST, built to be kept/used for GENERATIONS, NOT the throw away stuff we have been raised on.
The lost-foam casting method is much simpler.
Hi Chris, You are correct it is simpler but not better. For the benefit of others, lost-foam is when the pattern is made of polystyrene ( think disposable coffee cup) is the invested in a mold and the hot metal is poured directly on the foam resulting the the foam vaporizing and one is left with the image in metal.
Lost-foam casting offers several benefits, one of which is ease of use. Most casting processes are complex and require over a half-dozen steps. Lost-foam casting is relatively simple and straightforward. Generally used when casting aluminum.
On the other hand, the castings created by lost-foam casting aren’t particularly strong. With their low strength, they are naturally susceptible to damage, such as fracturing and breaking, when stressed. ( not ideal for rigging parts) They also lack detail unlike lost wax where a fingerprint can be cast.
Having done lost-foam casting in the past the biggest drawback, for me, is the thick black toxic smoke that is generated while the foam is burning.
Thanks for watching!
Cheers,
Bob
The word "WAX" sounds like the word "WHACKS".
I think you should have explained all the pieces you were making. At the beginning it was explained you were just molding the plate and that's all. Then you see this piece you don't recognize. Make it clearer please if theres a next time.
Hi Melinda, I do explain what the other parts are (Bow Chocks and Boom Crutch Socket). As I mentioned at the end of the video that I would show their completing and installation in an up coming video. In the mean time here are some definitions:
Bow Chock: In marine hardware, a chock with two arms which are bent over and nearly touch in the middle: used on yachts to keep the mooring-rope in place.To be efficient in casting parts it prudent to include several parts in one mold.
Boom Crutch Socket: Is a cast bronze fitting to securely hold square wooden boom crutch, which hold the boom in place when not sailing.
Thanks for watching and stay tuned ti see them installed!
Cheers,
ob
Brilliant!