How to Start Modeling - The Basic Half Hull Modeling Process, Part 1
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2024
- In this episode of the Art of Boat Building boat builder, Bob Emser demonstrates the making of a half- hull model using basic tools. This first is a 3 part series explores the basic or beginner skill in half-hull modeling. The tender “Victoria” is created using Honduras Mahogany.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
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Beautiful
Sanding the top of that skeg on the model is a genius move, I would have never thought to do that but it made perfect sense as soon as you did it. Nice work. Thank you for sharing.
I agree - it was like he was lapping it in, but I never thought of doing it with sandpaper and wood. What a good idea.
I was about to may the exact same comment. I would have never thought of that, it's fucking brilliant.
I grew up making tons of these (and also wooden pond sailing model boats) using a coping saw, a block plane and a 4-in-hand rasp. Those are the only tools my father would let me use until I got older. it's amazing what one can do with simple tools with some practice. I am now almost 51and I am still really good with a coping saw. Watching you do these brought back tons of memories. Nice work.
I honestly enjoy A2A more ONLY because of Arabella. But I extremely like what you do FAR MORE just because of how you do things. What I call "World Class". You're world class by definition, Bob. A2A is very fortunate to have found you and chosen you to build Victoria. I sincerely believe that no one, except Lou of course, could do as well of a job at as you will.
Best part of Saturday morning, thanks for all you do!
Just yesterday visited Age of Sail museum on Red River, NS, saw many half-models of cargo schooners and other ships.
Great episode, thanks Bob
Great episode showing how to use simple hand tools to make Victoria half hull #2. Thanks for sharing Bob.
Nicely done, Bob.
Chaulk full of tips and tricks. Very nice 👍🏻 indeed.
Good stuff Bob. I was inspired by your last video to make the lifts off of my Haven plans. I am currently shaping. Getting back to the transom is tricky. I will very much look forward to your H12 half model. After the boat show in Mystic last year and before the hurricane, we went to the Herreshoff museum and the half hull room wasn’t accessible but we could look through the windows. Truly incredible what they have there on display. And even more impressive is the genius of Captain Nat. Cheers, Chuck
I will have to make some of these to hang on the wall Looks great Bob.
Gracias maestro.Disfruto viendo su trabajo.
Thanks!
Thank You Dave! much appreciated.
Really interesting process, Bob! 😃
Beautiful work!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too!
Really considering getting some poplar and trying my hand at this. I'm much more of a (ply)wood fabricator, but this is intriguing!
Отменно.. Чувствуется рука мастера.. Боб, с меня подписка. Кстати, хотелось бы сказать, что Вы действительно весьма серьёзно подошли к вопросу, что уже самотпо себе говорит о многом. Редкий случай когда странница стольинформативна в одном отдельно взятом вопросе. Правда к сожалению есть один недостаток. Информация действительно много, но вот последовать таковой в плане ее изложения к сожалоению оставляет желоать лучшего. Хоотичнось представленных видео по сути заставляет по крупицам собирать общую мозаику всей картины предоставленной информации... Это наверно в свою очередь пожалуй единственно, что в свою очередь несколько смущает. В остальном, всё прекрасно... Буду рад, если вы в свою очередь продолжите начатую вами работу по данному направлению. Удачи и всех благ..
good stuff
Bob another rasp I use when making wooden stocks for rifles ( besides all the ones you show) is a rasp that is used for shoeing a horse hoof. Its about 2" wide and 16" long and can be a very aggressive cut or a smoother cut depending on ones application and purchase purse. I belive it was about $30.00. Great video. I wonder if there is a pattern for a CAL 29 designed by Lapworth and built by Jensen Marine. Isnt working with wood wonderful?
👏👏👏
👍
👍👍👍
The block attached to the hull that goes into the vice: I have seen another method in which the block is an octagon made from a 2x4 then attached to the hull using a 1x6 morticed into the octagon on one end and a flat 1x6 on the other end. This "flat" is then screwed into the hull. This allows the hull to be placed in the vice at various angles for carving. Probably not necessary for small models.
Hi Jerry, Yes, I'm familiar with that attachment. I believe you saw that on a Mystic Seaport Museum video. It's a nice video by Walt Ansel and a great explanation of half-hulls, not just carved. The devises in the video are used for the MSM workshop classes. The female lift mold (no clamping needed)and the hexagon block are design for a novice to carve a half-hull in a one day. I think the block might be good if one is new to carving, however, the simple block I used is more than efficient to carve a model. I noticed Walt never shows the model in any position other than flat. So In my opinion it's not necessary for any size half hull.
Thanks for sharing, it's a great overview video that also introduces the Hawks Nest half model. Several of my mentees in my Boat Building Clinic online have made HN models to better understand building their strong back.
Thanks for your comment and watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Dear Sir,
You most likely know the work of the Rosenfeld photographers family, they made wonderful pictures of classic yachts, including Herreshoff's.
Cheers from Brazil, where there was at least one Herreshoff, the "Atrevida."
Indeed, the Rosenfeld photographs are amazing.
Thanks for watching!
❤️ 😁
50 k !!!
One of the first tips I see woodworkers give is to add a little sawdust between boards during a glue-up to reduce wood slippage, yet I never actually see any of them do it.
Much better than adding salt, which is effectively altering the chemistry of the glue.
Of course mahogany has silica/ salts in it's make up so a few grains to stop slippage is not going to defeat the glue.
Another way to do this is to get the glue a little bit tacky before you clamp it. Also minimizes slipping.
or a bit of sandpaper's sand
Better to apply thin layer of glue both sides then let it get tacky before assembly and make sure the lifts are very flat - unless you use very fine sawdust between lifts the joints will be noticeable - done with just glue, joints will be hard to see
Is the actual tender going to have that leading edge on the skeg or will it be faired in?
Leading edge.
Did you get a "Long Live Victoria" T-shirt from A2A, Bob? I just purchased one from them and one of YOUR t-shirts. So excited to be a part of this with you!
I have one order! Thanks for supporting us.
In the normal process of boatbuilding (without Computer Aided Design) initial rough sketches are made then a “half block model” is made to what the builder wants as the first step in the design process , measurements are then taken off the model and used on the “lines plan” and faired if necessary in the process , next step is to draw the plans full size on the loft floor . The building process then begins.
I am confused that you are making a model off a plan … I can only assume that the model is for decorative purpose. The only half block models I have made were to take lines off and build a boat.
I will be taking off lines for the line plan.
I have some half hull models made by me,but would like to know how loft them to real size boat.Is there anyway you can show how a half hull model is transferred to lofting it to a real boat size or a computer program I could learn to use for lofting?
Yes, I'm working on doing exactly that. I'll have a video that shows the process in detail in a few weeks.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding That would be lovely!I grew in the Pacific island and always love boats and sailing.I carved small boat and sail them as a child.At these times,double end sail boat were our only mean of transportation,till the late 80s where we transition to Woodend boat with outboards.Now it’s a struggle with the petrol prices for my people in my little island.The vast sea that we have to travel for high school,shopping or catching our inter island ferry is quite rough.I have got a design that would suit enconomy,and it’s suit it’s part of the rough water.My dream is to go and build a boat for them.Your video would greatly help my dream accomplished! Right now they build but shape can only be known when finished!Almost like how the Indonesian build their wooden boats
19:39 Sorry to contribute that comment: Did You know that a Ryoba saw does have a fine crosscut side and a coarse side to cut longitudinally (in terms of the wood grain) .... it would have been so much easier to cut the deck-spring of Your model with the coarse side of Your Ryoba .... anyway thanks for sharing. I love Your content.
Have you started on the real dingy yet? Its been over a month..
What happened to the haven?!
How about some mounting plates and maybe nametags
Just wondering why you are spending so much time on the 3 - 1/2 hull models instead of the actually dory Victoria?
You're leaving put one rather important bit in these videos: "Why?" Why would you want to build a half model?
@@ericcsuf I recently lost a good friend and his widow gave me a half model which he made of his yacht which we sailed for many years. I will treasure it as a memory of my friend.
Sprinkle some salt on the glue surface and your slippage problem will go away.
on actual working half models they used dowels for alignment and further disassembly
Looks very simple but looks are deceiving. Without the proper tools and skills that half hull will never look like the one Bob makes. Beginners should avoid using expensive woods and practice a lot.
True, however even cheap wood needs to have a certain quality. Wouldn't want to try and make one out of any pine with loads of knots... fault free is the minimum requirement.
Why?