REPLACING CHAIN RINGS CAN BE DANGEROUS LEARN HOW TO EASILY DO SAFELY
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- Опубліковано 27 гру 2023
- If you ride your bike, inevitably you will wear parts of your drive train away and need to replace these components. Less often than the chain or rear cogs, the chain rings will need replacing. You may just need to replace them so you can fit different ratios.
Like most bike maintenance jobs, there are hard ways and easy ways. However, when it comes to replacing chain rings, there is also a very realistic danger of injuring yourself. Worn out chain ring teeth can be as sharp as a Stanley knife. Blunt parts of the frame like cable guides are also painful to hit your hands on. Throw in a little bit of corrosion on the bolts themselves and truly becomes an accident waiting to happen. But it doesn't have to be dangerous!
You are going to learn how to replace chain rings the safest and quickest way. You'll see the tools and technique I use after 40 years experience. I'll also share one of the best things I have ever discovered as a professional bike mechanic. Just this one tip will make the job easier and much safer to do. Frankly, everyone should be taking their chain ring bolts and doing this. Even if it isn't time for a chain ring replacement. the sooner you do this one thing to your bike the easier it will be when it is time. Safety First in the workshop.
Learn how to set up your own bike successfully and you will get a great sense of satisfaction and achievement.
As always, if you are in doubt or don't feel confident about your bike maintenance, go and speak to a professional bike mechanic.
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#bike #tutorials #bikerepair
What a pleasure to watch a pro mechanic at work!
When dealing with possible injury like this I just put my thick leather gloves on to protect my hands til the critical part is done.
Thanks this will help with my bike!
Quality content, Thanks
Merci!
My trick when I worked in shops was selective lubrication - I would put a small amount of grease on the threads and underside of the heads of the chainring bolts, and leave the underside of the heads of the chainring nuts (female side) dry with no grease. Then the friction of the nut against the chainring is much higher than the friction of the threads, so the nut basically holds itself in place when tightening and loosening.
Get rid of those crappy old-school chainring bolts and use the ones that have dual hex heads. Problem solved.
With a single chainring setup, I’ve never actually had to use that tool because the male bolt simply knocks out the space that the spanner would be sitting. Once I got to that point I would simply hold the back bolt with my finger and once I got to the point of final torque, the friction between the clamping of the bolts together held…
dont ever rember needing a peg spanner
Aha ..... !
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