WANT SUPER FAST CUP AND CONE HUBS IN UNDER 10 MINUTES - MY BEST ADVICE
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Ultimately, the best thing you can do to your bike is make your wheels better. Having properly serviced hubs is the perfect upgrade to every bike. Despite general belief, the traditional cup and cone system is the most efficient and fastest type of bearing system. I give you the best tips I know and things to avoid to make your wheels as fast and smooth as they possibly can be. If you learn how to do this correctly your wheels will not only be better, they'll last much longer.
In this tutorial I show you how I service my race quality hubs to make them smooth and super fast. It's all straight forward and easy to master if you follow my instructions and take your time.
Learn how to set up your own bike successfully and you will get a great sense of satisfaction and achievement.
As always, if you are in doubt or don't feel confident about your bike maintenance, go and speak to a professional bike mechanic.
Leave any questions or comments below. Don't forget to LIKE, SHARE AND SUBSCRIBE...
#bike #tutorials #bikerepair
Great video, so glad I stumbled across this. I'm new to servicing cup and cone bearings and there were several nuggets mentioned which I've not heard anywhere else which should make the process much better. Thanks for sharing all this great info!
Cartridge bearings has factory built in "adjustment". Much easier to work with. Industry standard bearings will always be avaiable rather than a propetary cone. Good luck finding an old XTR cone. Moreover if (for some reason) the cup surface has some damage the hub is junk.
It's not about which one is better. It's about what is easeier to maintan. Both systems are good when rolling fresh. (Especially for an average mortal people.)
Shimano recently started to make cartridge bearing hubs.
(Most) People don't service their bikes unless it has some major issues. Most of the time it's too late for those cones.
Fantastic content, you should have way more subscribers!
Done all of the above and got 9 speed to fit 126mm dropouts without cold setting the frame or forcing 130mm OLD hubs in. Unfortunately it would be a bit risky to grind cones and freehub bodies on pristine hubs. Dust seals?, well! Nice upgrade, but not for the faint of heart! Got to do frequent maintenance.
Nice work! You'd be a braver man than me if you were grinding cones down. Freehub body, maybe. They are more maintenance... for me that's a small price to pay for better running wheels.
Thanks for the tip on not using the magnet dish! Any preference on bearing material? (Stainless/Chrome or Brands) Do you recommend replacing bearings based on distance or time? Thanks for taking the time to compile and share the great video!!!
So sorry I haven't responded sooner @rcushing1991. You can read why on the channel's community tab if you are interested. There are also a couple of polls you can get involved in to determine my future videos. Thanks heaps for your comment and compliments. You are very welcome. I don't really have a preference on bearing material. I use good quality stainless steel bearings, currently Shimano. I think regular grease and bearing replacement is far more important. I don't do it on time or distance... this, like many jobs on a bike are prevention over cure. I like to get in there early to stop any damage, but just as importantly, keep my bikes running at there best all the time. I'd be thinking more about the environmental conditions and the sort of work load you put the hubs through. Hope this helps...
i notice that with cup and cone hubs there less chance to have a flat tyre, i use grower washers to adjusts the cones
Something I have never investigated...
For a crappy city bike i suppose it doesn't matter too much if there is some pitting.
I once knew a guy who would buy a pot of bearings and go through them with a micrometer checking for size and roundness
He'd wind up throwing half of them away
That was in the 80's, manufacturing tolerances may have improved IDK
There is definitely a difference in tolerance based on quality and materials are better now. Having said that, the strength/quality of material for cups and cones these days is probably more fragile in my opinion.
I wouldn't measure them... better things to do! I do through them straight in the bin if they get dropped on the floor because of grit contamination.
@@bicycleguru yup, I wouldn't measure either, this guy was bananas though
Used to say "I'm fussy, see?"
How he found time I don't know. Had a myford Ml7 with a gap bed, Norton gearbox, milling attachment and all the trimmings. Built four stroke model aero glow plug engines from scratch. If he felt it was worth it, it probably was, but only for those with OCD 😁
what are your thoughts about leaving cup and cone a bit loose so that QR clamps the rest of the play in the frame?
The 2 things aren't related.If the cones and lock nuts are truly locked together a QR isn't going to change the compression between the cones, bearings and cups. All I can say on this is, running them slightly loose is better than running them tight and/or rough. So, on used parts, that's the better option...
@@bicycleguru thanks, it probably became a thing since on cheaper hubs and cones they probably flex and create more preload(?)
Why has Shimano gone to cartige then?
Did you just use cone spanners to break the lock nuts right after saying not to?… hahaha! Don’t worry boss do as you say not as you do!
I said not to use cone spanners on a normal (6 sided) lock nut. The Dura Ace 7700 hub I was demonstrating with has lock nuts that can't be undone with a normal spanner because it takes a cone spanner... the slot is too narrow for anything but a cone spanner. I always do it the way I teach it except for maybe holding things differently so I can film it. Not always easy when one is doing both jobs at once.
Good work! Thanks for that from an amateur bike mechanic!
@@denis_roy_7 Thanks... glad you liked it.
Rapid fire bike mechanic wisdom.