There are 2 possibilies in my opinion 1) check if all the pins are still okay, maybe one broke. 2) the qr lite is known to sometimes lose connection..it could be einher that a qr1 fixes the problem or its.the baseside Shaft which has loosened up a bit and needs to be tightened up.
7 years on fanatec and csw 2.5 ( 2017 ) and DD2 ( 2019) PLUS 06 wheels, handbrake, shifter, v3 pedals and its like a new. i never had any problems. of course since my first time, i use QR1 metal. today, my new QR2 setup its better and more accurate.
The CSL DD is a very capable unit but it does have some weaknesses. I would advise a quality two piece shaft clamp, the supplied one does not grip evenly and if you pull on the wheel the shaft will pull out of the housing which can cause the problems seen here. Back when the covid was causing the lockdowns, I noticed that there were a lot of QC issues with their midrange wheels (€549 Porsche was possibly the worst affected, overtightened button box was often the culprit) for that reason I stuck with their more basic wheels and found the WRC wheel to be particularly well suited for the CSL DD 8Nm, it's all about the combined weight of wheel & QR1 (Lite in my case) the Alcantara finish means gloves are required but that's probably advisable for all wheel types. I've had no issues with my Fanatec equipment in the year/18 mnths and I often race for 6+ hours at a stretch. The CSL DD doesnt even get warm, and is near silent in use including the excellent CSL Elite V2's (I have a set of Clubsport V3's too, but these are noticeably clonkier and I don't like the brake pedal much) Every week or so I check the shaft is seated correctly, since changing the clamp it's always remained correctly seated.
I have the two Piece clamp and still disconnecting. Fanatec garbage. Impossible to race. Can be leading a race and then no gear shifts or any buttons work. Took me a long time to get to A+ rating but now thanks to Fanatec’s equipment I can’t do daily races as rating will be destroyed. This isn’t the way it should be after spending over 1000 euro on their not fit for purpose equipment.
You can make a small claims in your local court against fanatec. You can print out the form or do it online and take to your local court house. I have been left with zero option other than to do that. I will not let them get away with what they are doing to us. I wonder if the after sales support on Fanatec’s owners Porsches and Mercedes that we all payed for are better!
Your steering shaft has pulled loose. Loosen the collar, reseat it and tighten it according to instructions. And then contact support and they should replace the base for you. Get them to give you the new 2 piece collar from the qr2. It's much better.
@@TeflonPapi glad it was an easy fix. Also mine moved a little bit and from curiosity i loose the tight and noticed it's a USB C connector there. Push it in place and tighten it better.
The movement of the axle happens if we had the bad habit to pull the wheel in for example high speed demanding turns. So I try to not pull but do the opposite by pushing in the wheel.
The rp1 v2 wheel i have broke where the plastic halves meet. I am im the process of glueing them together. Hopefully this helps. Mind you, i paid $550 and am getting glue out to fix........
That has a QR1 lite which is very poor. New QR is out. Fanatec shouldn't do this. Lovely packaged kit usually looks great. I've had 3 broken rims and a broken QR lite, a lot of plastic in them. After sales help is very poor and slow. The QR you have there is plastic. Check none of the pins are bent in the rim. Unfortunately the QRs are expensive.
Hi, how are you doing with it now? I’m really on the fence whether to get the DD pro or T-GT2. The setups I want with the 2x wheels from each, the T-GT2 comes in £400 cheaper. I also only play on PS and most Dirt 2.0 and GT7. I’ve heard belt driven wheels are still a better choice for rally games and the GT2 is really good on GT7 with the additional haptics it has. But everyone says DD is the way to go. I’ve just read horror stories about how bad Fanatec are to deal with and their products although good on day 1 always seem to have some design flaws that comes or months later, as with QR1 or the durability of their elite wheels. What would you do now, knowing what you know?
Thrushmaster has a DD Wheel. Now I love Fanatec. But I have had issues with everything except the pedals. Switched the shaft to the QR2. Still disconnects sometimes. The customer service is horrible. I put in a ticket for my handbrake and I still haven’t heard anything.
That sucks. I have the WRC wheel, its essentially the same steering wheel you have and it is my most used steering wheel. But I am looking to get a better wheel because it is starting to creak a lot. I take it that this isn't a firmware issue?
Your QR2 probably solves the issue but you better get rid of that rig, way too much flex. If there are too many other huge or constant forces on the steering wheel except from turning left and right, it might kill the wheel and QR, especially the QR lite and QR1.
lol i got that wheel years ago it's buttons straight up fell out and broke i sent it back and got 918 porsche wheel instead... will never get low end plastic garbage ones again. I remember every time i gripped it it made weird cheap creaking sounds as well.
Did you find a fix for it? I got the CSL DD Pro with the McLaren GT3 and the wheel keeps getting disconnected on my PS5 nonstop. Have to restart the wheel base every time it does it.
I did. I upgraded and bought the QR2. And I haven’t had a single issue. These wheels should have came with the QR2! Check my review out this may help ua-cam.com/video/Zocu6nt0ads/v-deo.htmlsi=ZdziwCkOwF8XKIuK
Ive hat my CSL DD bundle for a day and the base is already fucked, worked fine last night and today I get no FFB and no rotation input. waste of money.
I’m sorry to hear that bro. It seems like everyone is having the same issue with this base. Do you have the 5nm version or the 8nm version? Did you try to reconnect the shaft?
My first CSL DD 8Nm burned itself after 2 weeks. I received the RMA'd product (new wheelbase) yesterday and tested it today for 2 hours. Suddenly it disconnected mid-race and after checking the wheelbase, the usb-connector in the QR1 shaft had bent and destroyed. What the fuck is going on.
There are 2 possibilies in my opinion
1) check if all the pins are still okay, maybe one broke.
2) the qr lite is known to sometimes lose connection..it could be einher that a qr1 fixes the problem or its.the baseside Shaft which has loosened up a bit and needs to be tightened up.
I’ll check. Thanks for that info. Hopefully this helps.
7 years on fanatec and csw 2.5 ( 2017 ) and DD2 ( 2019) PLUS 06 wheels, handbrake, shifter, v3 pedals and its like a new. i never had any problems. of course since my first time, i use QR1 metal. today, my new QR2 setup its better and more accurate.
That’s amazing bro. I have not had any issues after switching to the QR2. It’s been working flawlessly.
The CSL DD is a very capable unit but it does have some weaknesses. I would advise a quality two piece shaft clamp, the supplied one does not grip evenly and if you pull on the wheel the shaft will pull out of the housing which can cause the problems seen here. Back when the covid was causing the lockdowns, I noticed that there were a lot of QC issues with their midrange wheels (€549 Porsche was possibly the worst affected, overtightened button box was often the culprit) for that reason I stuck with their more basic wheels and found the WRC wheel to be particularly well suited for the CSL DD 8Nm, it's all about the combined weight of wheel & QR1 (Lite in my case) the Alcantara finish means gloves are required but that's probably advisable for all wheel types. I've had no issues with my Fanatec equipment in the year/18 mnths and I often race for 6+ hours at a stretch. The CSL DD doesnt even get warm, and is near silent in use including the excellent CSL Elite V2's (I have a set of Clubsport V3's too, but these are noticeably clonkier and I don't like the brake pedal much) Every week or so I check the shaft is seated correctly, since changing the clamp it's always remained correctly seated.
I order the qr2. It comes with a two piece clamp. It’s been better since Ive switched. And also upgraded to a steadier rig.
I have the two
Piece clamp and still disconnecting. Fanatec garbage. Impossible to race. Can be leading a race and then no gear shifts or any buttons work. Took me a long time to get to A+ rating but now thanks to Fanatec’s equipment I can’t do daily races as rating will be destroyed. This isn’t the way it should be after spending over 1000 euro on their not fit for purpose equipment.
@enzoman444 yea the double clamp didn’t fix all the issues.
You can make a small claims in your local court against fanatec. You can print out the form or do it online and take to your local court house. I have been left with zero option other than to do that. I will not let them get away with what they are doing to us. I wonder if the after sales support on Fanatec’s owners Porsches and Mercedes that we all payed for are better!
Thanks for that info I’ll keep that in mind. Cause I still have a broken handbrake and Fanatec won’t respond.
@@TeflonPapi I will post link to European small claims site
@@TeflonPapi why delete the link? It’s legitimate.
does the software recognize the wheel? does the forcefeeedback still work despite not being able to shift and use the other buttons?
I had to move the shaft back in place and it works just fine now. Easy fix.
Try re fitting the steering wheel shaft into the base unit before anything else as it seems your wheel isn’t connecting properly
Thanks buddy I finally fixed it with the QR2.
Your steering shaft has pulled loose. Loosen the collar, reseat it and tighten it according to instructions. And then contact support and they should replace the base for you. Get them to give you the new 2 piece collar from the qr2. It's much better.
Thanks for trying to help. I already replaced this shaft with the qr2.
It seems like a faulty hardware connection because the motor axle has moved. Search on UA-cam the fix for it.
Thanks bro. I’ll check it out and get back to you. Hopefully I can fix it.
You were right. The shaft had moved. Just had to push back in and tighten it up.
w
@@TeflonPapi
glad it was an easy fix. Also mine moved a little bit and from curiosity i loose the tight and noticed it's a USB C connector there. Push it in place and tighten it better.
The movement of the axle happens if we had the bad habit to pull the wheel in for example high speed demanding turns. So I try to not pull but do the opposite by pushing in the wheel.
The rp1 v2 wheel i have broke where the plastic halves meet. I am im the process of glueing them together. Hopefully this helps. Mind you, i paid $550 and am getting glue out to fix........
Exactly how I feel bro. To expensive to have to repair yourself.
That has a QR1 lite which is very poor. New QR is out. Fanatec shouldn't do this. Lovely packaged kit usually looks great. I've had 3 broken rims and a broken QR lite, a lot of plastic in them. After sales help is very poor and slow. The QR you have there is plastic. Check none of the pins are bent in the rim. Unfortunately the QRs are expensive.
I bought the QR2. But unfortunately it’s taking for ever to get here in the mail.
Hi, how are you doing with it now?
I’m really on the fence whether to get the DD pro or T-GT2.
The setups I want with the 2x wheels from each, the T-GT2 comes in £400 cheaper.
I also only play on PS and most Dirt 2.0 and GT7. I’ve heard belt driven wheels are still a better choice for rally games and the GT2 is really good on GT7 with the additional haptics it has.
But everyone says DD is the way to go.
I’ve just read horror stories about how bad Fanatec are to deal with and their products although good on day 1 always seem to have some design flaws that comes or months later, as with QR1 or the durability of their elite wheels.
What would you do now, knowing what you know?
Thrushmaster has a DD Wheel. Now I love Fanatec. But I have had issues with everything except the pedals. Switched the shaft to the QR2. Still disconnects sometimes. The customer service is horrible. I put in a ticket for my handbrake and I still haven’t heard anything.
IVE HAD GT DD PRO FOR A MINUTE NOW. LOVIN IT AND NO ISSUES. JUST SAYIN
@thalastboss01 Thants good bro your one of the lucky ones. Only took a month for mine to act up.
@@TeflonPapiTHAT IS INSANE. I WOULD BE FURIOUS IF THIS STUPUD WHEEL BROKE IN 1 MONTH. U GOT MONEY BK AT LEAST?
@thalastboss01 they sent me a new wheel about a month later.
That sucks. I have the WRC wheel, its essentially the same steering wheel you have and it is my most used steering wheel. But I am looking to get a better wheel because it is starting to creak a lot.
I take it that this isn't a firmware issue?
Mine is creaking too. No I had to loosing it up and push the shaft back in and now it work Perfectly.
@@TeflonPapi Good to know that you're back up and running. Thanks for the update.
@@wwjnz9263gonna make an update with the solution later. Thanks bro.
The shaft that connects the wheel to the base has come loose. You need to loosen the bolt on the collar and reseat it. This is a common problem.
Yea bro I found out after the fact. I wanna invest in the QR2. When it’s available.
@@TeflonPapi It was released last week I believe. Sold out pretty quick though.
@MarkChance the website said the pre orders are available next week when I check the site yesterday.
@@TeflonPapi You better pre order if you want one. I’m holding out until my qr1’s give up.
@MarkChance the QR1 is nice. Maybe just a more sturdy sim cockpit would do me some Justice.
Your QR2 probably solves the issue but you better get rid of that rig, way too much flex. If there are too many other huge or constant forces on the steering wheel except from turning left and right, it might kill the wheel and QR, especially the QR lite and QR1.
I bought a new rig from Trak Racer. Much more sturdy.
lol i got that wheel years ago it's buttons straight up fell out and broke i sent it back and got 918 porsche wheel instead... will never get low end plastic garbage ones again. I remember every time i gripped it it made weird cheap creaking sounds as well.
It doesn’t make those weird noises with the QR2. I just upgraded and it made a really big difference.
@@TeflonPapi considering that QR2 costs as much as that whole wheel...and what i meant creacking is if you grip wheel hard enough wheel itself creaks.
@Eskoxo it was on sale for $20 on Black Friday 🥲 my QR1 creaked a lot. I changed to the Qr2 and I don’t get any creaking at all.
Did you find a fix for it? I got the CSL DD Pro with the McLaren GT3 and the wheel keeps getting disconnected on my PS5 nonstop. Have to restart the wheel base every time it does it.
I did. I upgraded and bought the QR2. And I haven’t had a single issue. These wheels should have came with the QR2! Check my review out this may help ua-cam.com/video/Zocu6nt0ads/v-deo.htmlsi=ZdziwCkOwF8XKIuK
Change the plastic shit QR on the McLaren wheel immediately. (QR1 or QR2). If you choose the QR2 version you have to change it on the DD Pro.
@martinpesti8042 I did. I got the qr2 now.
@@TeflonPapi Great choice. It will be flawless :)
@martinpesti8042 it has been thus far.
Ive hat my CSL DD bundle for a day and the base is already fucked, worked fine last night and today I get no FFB and no rotation input. waste of money.
I’m sorry to hear that bro. It seems like everyone is having the same issue with this base. Do you have the 5nm version or the 8nm version? Did you try to reconnect the shaft?
Good video man
Thanks bro I need to drop another one
My first CSL DD 8Nm burned itself after 2 weeks. I received the RMA'd product (new wheelbase) yesterday and tested it today for 2 hours. Suddenly it disconnected mid-race and after checking the wheelbase, the usb-connector in the QR1 shaft had bent and destroyed. What the fuck is going on.
I had the exact same problem as you have in this video and it was the usb connector that was broken :/
Mine blew up after 2 hours.
I had to switch to the qr2
@@TeflonPapi Has there been any issues with the QR2? I really want to try it but I don't wanna disappoint for the 3rd time.
@MikaTarkela it still disconnects I just have to tighten it up. I have the GT dd pro
What week base you have
GT DD PRO
Bro go thrustmaster
Now I’m starting to regret that I didn’t.
@TeflonPapi I have t300 for 9 years now and not 1 issue..it's sold and the feed back is better
@audybryan2730 I’ve had more issues with this week than I care to share lol
the feedback of the t300 is not better than a cls dd what are you talking about? @@audybryan2730