Everything’s disposable for you kids. Back in my day, we had to make our own sandpaper from sand and paper, and if the sand fell off, you had to glue it back on. And God help the apprentice who asked the foreman for more sand.
I'm no machinist. I find the amount of deflection interesting, I had no idea there was that dramatic of a difference between the round stock. Thanks this was very interesting.
Excellent stress and strain (deflection) comparisons on the materials, never would have figured that it would have been that much. Great lesson !!!! and even better idea on the modification to the bar.
As Stefan demonstrated in a video a few years back everything is made of rubber. Put an indicator on a vise jaw and clamp something up. The fixed jaw will move. How much depends a lot on the design of the vise.
Please don't block me. I noticed you were dragging the scotchbrite on the back stroke. You know that may cause it to wear prmaturely. You might even cause it to wear enough that you would have to replace it. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Get a marker pen and draw arrows on the scotchbrite and then you can use it in the corrent direction evsry time. All my scotchbrite pads and sandpaper squares have arrows drawn on them. So does my carpet mat, so I can walk through the doorway at the correct angle. I'm not going to mention my wife's tattoos...
@@wizrom3046 I know you're joking, but scotchbrite does seem to have a direction. If you want to put a finish on stainless steel then you have to start at one end and use the same piece of scotchbrite in the same orientation using one clean stroke with even pressure. If you turn it 90 degrees then you get a different cut and it looks different. We made some matte finish stainless backsplashes once and had to figure out how to get even finishes. We found out that direction and orientation of the pad was crucial to getting an even finish.
@@wizrom3046 I'm being serious. We tried putting a grain on polished stainless sheet metal and tried a few different methods to get an even result. We found that if you did a pass, then turned the scotchbrite 90 degrees then the next pass would look different. If you did a pass going away from you, and then one towards you, it would look different. It would catch the light differently. If you did evenly pressured strokes all going in one direction without changing the orientation of the scotchbrite then it would all look the same.
G'day Stefan. I'm always impressed of the strength of a silver soldered joint. As for filing techniques, what can be said of the die filer it is a reciprocating motion with no regard to its backstroke, anyhow do it how you like as I think most of us keep our files far too long anyway, I know I do. Cheers Peter
Great mod Stefan, and despite the slightly sketchy setup, the science and the results were really interesting. To be within a few microns of correlation to the modulus of elasticity, is really satisfying to see. Well done, and file how best fits the job! Cheers, Jon
two ways to increase the precision of the messurement or to judge it. (regarding the movement of the bars in the vise ): 1 put a bar with a bigger diameter in the vise, and messure the deflection. now you will almost read only the reading the movement in the vise. this is the offset, you can subtract from the other readings. 2 put the other end of the test indicator / magnet also on the bar you messure. so you will messure only the bar itself, regardless it moves in the vise
Nice video, Stefan. Thank you for taking the time to make it. With regard to dragging a file: I was trained not to do so during my apprenticeship. However, after seeing Fireball Tool's video on the subject (go see it. He has a great channel, too), I have changed my mind. He PROVED that dragging a file whilst filing steel is NOT detrimental to the file. In fact, it actually was beneficial to the process. Perhaps there are situations where this is not true, but I have yet to experience one. As a millwright and a machinist I no longer worry about dragging my files, though it is so ingrained in me not to that I almost always don't just by reflex. I hope this is useful information. Please keep up the good work! Thanks again.
at 9 am (local time in Germany) this was posted 6 hours ago. You are obviously going through sleepless nights to get us some nice content to watch while having our morning coffee ;-)
On the filing technique, fireball tools did a test rig on comparing the different filing techniques and the results were very interesting. Excellent and informative video Stefan, as usual. Thank you for sharing this content.
Did he file a range of materials? Lifting the file on the return stroke is only useful, in my experience, when filing materials which are comparable in hardness with the file.
So happy i checked my youtube notifications...althought its realy late here to. Your video's are True jewel of calmt and serenty combined with expert mechanical skills. Now i gonna watch cheers Grtz from the netherlands Johny geerts
good job stefan..when you have to use tools with so much overhang, you have to use tools with hard metal handles and thus minimize vibrations...they are quite expensive but in china you can find them at reasonable prices...greetings from Spain
Toll, Stefan, habe wieder viel gelernt... 👍 Mach Dir nicht so viel Gedanken über das potenzielle Besserwissertum mancher Leute. Für unsereins ist es immer etwas schwer, das zu "notchen", aber wir dürfen uns nicht davon runterziehen lassen. 😎🤞
Stiffness is everything. And, not only in the workshop. Thank you for another really informative video. I can only dream of achieving the degree of accuracy that you reach.
you can try to make slightly thicker dampened bar with this carbide rod. make a long tube out of tool steel over this carbide rod, with a loose fit, and fill the gap between tube and rod with a thick grease. there is a many recipes of a composite bars like that.
Thanks for the trigger, I'll have to make me one of those as well. I think Robin showed a different approach, boring what was left off the original tool and necking down the carbide shank, or something like this. I think I might try that one, since I have zero faith in my soldering skills....
Super Experiment, danke, Stefan! Ich liebe solche Näherungsexperimente, weil man damit ein Gefühl für die Dinge bekommt, ohne dass man strenge Wisenschaftlichkeit braucht. Danke! Great Experiment! I love those approximations, giving us some kind of feel for material and forces, without the need for strict scientificity.
Great demonstration on the rigidity of different steels clear and easy to understand, I use tipped boring bars mainly for rough turning and prefere for fine finishing a HSS insert ground to the correct rake angle for the material being cut, it gives me more control of the finnish and l find it less likely to chatter.
That looks great.A fraction of the cost for a commercially available,solid carbide bar.Are the people complaining about your filing technique,buying your files?I think not.
A chinesium solid carbide insert boring bar this size costs about €30. (Remember the business end is Chinese here also). Probably just the blank with coolant holes costs as much
So you inspired me to get a deckel clone U2 single lip cutter which is so great for it's price and now you go and get some floorstanding thing haha. Love your stuff and I do a little head dance to your intro music everytime.
Nice tool hack! -- love your statment: "it wasn't too much work"...ha!..if you have a surface grinder and a cutter grinder :-) also love the practical science experiment. I try to teach my daughter that kind of practial thinking by measuring things and experimenting as much as possible.
Yeah, I used these machines, because they where the easiest way for me to accomplish the task :) It should be easy transferable to many other classes of shop equipments - The head could also be milled or filed (dont drag the file :D ) at 45° and the carbide blank can be 45° Cut on a benchgrinder with a green silicon carbide wheel and careful checking with a protractor.
@StefanGotteswinter, I really appreciate your test regarding rigidity of the different materials. The carbide boring bars have another factor to reduce chatter besides being stiffer. They are heavier, and more mass means lower natural frequency and less tendency to harmonic vibrations. I really hope that I got that right as English isn´t my native tounge. 🙂 Btw, this video was uploaded a year ago, but carbide boring bars are nowadays being sold on Ebay and they are not that expensive. But of course, you don´t get to chose what carbide tip to use and you don´t get to make anoter nice video if you buy them on Ebay. 🙂
Surprised you ground all that length of flat on both sides as you reduced the stiffness a decent amount by doing that. It does make setup more convenient though.
@@rldoyle5705 well the most stiffness comes from the material furthest from the axis so if the goal is ultimate stiffness those are the last ones you would want to remove. Sandvik and Kennametal both preach about using only clamp style holders on their deep hole bars as the screw type on flats aren’t stiff enough. Obviously Stefan got the results he wanted so it doesn’t matter but I thought maybe the info might help someone going after stiffness gains for a job someday. You are right though I should probably just go back to the barn and not comment.
I wonder how much the extra stick out of the stainless and 4140 from the vise effected your results. Probably not much. Excellent project. You are among the most talented machinists out there. Superb work.
As an engineering student I can most certainly say that the elasticity constant, or Young's modulus most definitely changes between different alloys and heat treatments of steels. In fact it is one of the main reasons heat treatments and alloying is used
Great video 👍 Stefan enjoyed the tool modification and I also enjoyed the AVE type of in-depth science experiment keep up with the great content and I am not going to mention your filing technique 😅
If only AvE did videos like that... Nowadays he's just sitting in front of a stove rambling about this that and the other. Quit my subscription to him after many years recently.
Love it when you mesmerize us, and send us off scratching our heads thinking about "deflection" in our sleep (@@)! Thx, don't know about others, but one day I would love too see you and Adam Savage do a "shop made tools" project video together :)> You both are always making improvements to and existing tool (@@)! Bear in TX.
Wonderful work. You can do all my boring bars like this, but only if you use the correct filling technique and take a shot of Schnapps after you finish each of them while whistling the German National Anthem.
Considering price of some small boring bars I started using carbide end mills and they perform great likely because of this stiffness of carbide. I noticed you used polished insert on steel, i did that by mistake and got good finish I forgot was it stainless.
What would you do with the dead file? Throw it out or "repurpose" it? Btw nice one, on pointing out on the flex modulus for hardened/non hardened bars.
did you ever try sophisticated multifix tool holders for boring bars if they were available for your toolpost size? much better grip than the standard ones and they actually decrease deflection and chatter because they don't work on friction only.
Yes, I have two of the 30mm boring bar holders - I use them on my larger 20mm boring bars with a split bushing - They are indeed very nice and rigid, but also annoyingly expensive.
Ok. I think you must have been referring to ruining the file from getting it filled up with silver. I thought you were afraid of dulling it on the hardened steel. That’s why I brought up using a stone.
@@greglaroche1753 he _was_ afraid of dulling it on the carbide, and the hardened steel, to a lesser extent). He wasn't concerned with clogging the file up with silver solder.
By using a carbide shank of the same diameter as the steel shank, you reduce the deflection by a factor of three due to the higher Young's modulus of the carbide. It would be good to complete the analysis by stating how you can reduce the deflection by the same factor of three if you increase the second moment of area of the (steel) bar (i.e. make it larger diameter). Since the I-value for a circle is proportional to the fourth power of the radius, the diameter only needs to increase by approx. 32% to achieve the same result.
Out of curiosity, how much more difficult would it have been to just mill the new material end to fit the cutter? Edit: Now I'm closer to the end and I can see how intricate the cutout for the cutter actually is. I guess that would be rather more difficult than I 1st thought it would be.
fireball tools did an *excellent* video proving to those filing-technique pedants that THEY ARE WRONG! dragging the file increases rate of material removal and doesn't hurt file longevity at all.
I was hoping someone posted this. That said on such a hard material it's pretty much irrelevant, the file is going to get hurt whether it's dragged or not.
I have to mention that the demonstration fireball tool did was great but only applicable to modern off the shelf files. I inherited a couple dozen files from my great grandfather that where still brand new in the paper sleeve, if you drag these files the teeth will chip and you will kill the file in a couple of swipes. I absolutely murdered one because i wasn't thinking about it. They don't make things like they did 100 years ago, but in the case of files it might actually be a good thing. Now if you have a modern carbide file, then the old time methods still apply. Nothing like killing a $200 file in 2 seconds, only thing worse than dragging is dropping.
@@pcsmachineworks if the file is strong enough to cut metal going one way, how tf is it going to be damaged going the other way on the same metal? that sounds like some old wives' tales horseshite.
@@douglasharley2440 hard brittle materials chip easily, simple as that. The rest is basic metallurgy. When cutting the tooth is under compression and the force is directed into the tooth, this is when the material is the strongest. Dragging is just bouncing the tooth across the top and pulling the cutting edge away from the body of the tooth, the weakest for a brittle material. Spin a carbide endmill backwards once and try to cut with it, let me know what happens. Modern files are no where near as hard as the old hand made pieces where, and a solid carbide (not the crummy cheap grit ones) are even harder. I've smoked a few old files by dragging them, teeth stripped right off. Newer files are better metal which is more durable and slightly softer so not prone to the brittleness. Same as many other metals or materials. Well used punches and chissels chip at the strike end because they get hard and brittle, bandsaw blades with a lot of miles will shed teeth even though they are still sharp because they work harden and get brittle and chip off. Even concrete works in the same manner. No wives tales, just basic physics and science. Every one revered a file with such regard back in the day because each tooth was hand formed and they where very expensive, some still are. It definitely doesn't apply to most off the shelf mass produced files of nowadays, but at one time in history there was real truth to how a file should be used and why.
In my apprenticeship we filed without lifting but ours bench work projects were tolerated. It is impossible to file accurately while lifting. Files are not flat so constant contact and bluing insures the high spot of the file is removing the high spot of the part. The infamous U channel was our first project.
Berlin Carbide corporate video english - short version - UA-cam ua-cam.com/video/d-VKMxhe_I8/v-deo.html How do they put those holes in carbide cutting tools? - UA-cam ua-cam.com/video/CE6OxXRwYgs/v-deo.html
Fireball Tools has a video where he tested different filing techniques to the extreme and you would be surprised by the results. You make precision work look simple.
Please no more comments towards Jason/Fireball Tools video. I am subscribed to him and have seen it right at release.
You should watch the Fireball Tools video :P *ducks*
The "right" filing technique is the one that gets the job done. It seems a lot of people forget that files are consumables, not heirlooms. :)
Amen Brother!
A quality file is like what 30.00? If I have to replace it twice in my life because is “didn’t use it right”, it is what it is.
@@paulerenberger1286 I buy used ones for like a dollar per...it they are worn out I just soak them in acid...most of the time that fixes them.
Everything’s disposable for you kids. Back in my day, we had to make our own sandpaper from sand and paper, and if the sand fell off, you had to glue it back on. And God help the apprentice who asked the foreman for more sand.
@@8__vv__8 Ask for sand? We had to make our own sand by grinding rocks...
I am a simple man, I see a Stefan Gotteswinter video; I smash the like button.
I really appreciate your demonstration regarding the relative "stiffness" of steel vs. carbide. Thank you for the extra effort and time.
That little grinding vise allways steals the show.
"And then I have yo bock you "....way to go! Awesome. Put those arm chair know it all in their place! Love it!
Bocking as dipping in a strong German lager?
@@super8hell I should not spell while drinking.
@@pontoonrob7948 expexially dirgking Bock
"And then I have to block you" lol such a completely reasonable gentleman this smiling assassin. Drag on my good fellow.
Watching boring bars with you at the wheel is never boring :)
Very nice job Stefan!
I'm no machinist. I find the amount of deflection interesting, I had no idea there was that dramatic of a difference between the round stock. Thanks this was very interesting.
Especially that short of a distance of stick out.
Fireball Tool has an interesting video on filing technique.
Great video as always!
Excellent stress and strain (deflection) comparisons on the materials, never would have figured that it would have been that much. Great lesson !!!! and even better idea on the modification to the bar.
As Stefan demonstrated in a video a few years back everything is made of rubber. Put an indicator on a vise jaw and clamp something up. The fixed jaw will move. How much depends a lot on the design of the vise.
Please don't block me. I noticed you were dragging the scotchbrite on the back stroke. You know that may cause it to wear prmaturely. You might even cause it to wear enough that you would have to replace it. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Oh no! Stefan is a scotch brite abuser.....
Get a marker pen and draw arrows on the scotchbrite and then you can use it in the corrent direction evsry time.
All my scotchbrite pads and sandpaper squares have arrows drawn on them.
So does my carpet mat, so I can walk through the doorway at the correct angle. I'm not going to mention my wife's tattoos...
@@wizrom3046 I know you're joking, but scotchbrite does seem to have a direction. If you want to put a finish on stainless steel then you have to start at one end and use the same piece of scotchbrite in the same orientation using one clean stroke with even pressure. If you turn it 90 degrees then you get a different cut and it looks different.
We made some matte finish stainless backsplashes once and had to figure out how to get even finishes. We found out that direction and orientation of the pad was crucial to getting an even finish.
@@oldscratch3535 haha now I dont know if youre serious (and giving us cool info) or a master troll playing a prank. 🤔🙂
@@wizrom3046 I'm being serious. We tried putting a grain on polished stainless sheet metal and tried a few different methods to get an even result.
We found that if you did a pass, then turned the scotchbrite 90 degrees then the next pass would look different. If you did a pass going away from you, and then one towards you, it would look different. It would catch the light differently. If you did evenly pressured strokes all going in one direction without changing the orientation of the scotchbrite then it would all look the same.
G'day Stefan. I'm always impressed of the strength of a silver soldered joint. As for filing techniques, what can be said of the die filer it is a reciprocating motion with no regard to its backstroke, anyhow do it how you like as I think most of us keep our files far too long anyway, I know I do. Cheers Peter
It's a sad day when you have to accept your favourite file's best days are behind it.
PGS. Very good point.
Not only did i take the accuracy with a grain of salt, i added pepper as well. Love this channel.
Geiler typ. Neues Gotteswinter Video erzeugt jdesmal tiefe Entspannung und Befriedigung. Danke.
Great mod Stefan, and despite the slightly sketchy setup, the science and the results were really interesting. To be within a few microns of correlation to the modulus of elasticity, is really satisfying to see. Well done, and file how best fits the job! Cheers, Jon
Fancy seeing you here ;)
@@NML666 lol, ditto!!
two ways to increase the precision of the messurement or to judge it.
(regarding the movement of the bars in the vise ):
1 put a bar with a bigger diameter in the vise, and messure the deflection. now you will almost read only the reading the movement in the vise. this is the offset, you can subtract from the other readings.
2 put the other end of the test indicator / magnet also on the bar you messure. so you will messure only the bar itself, regardless it moves in the vise
I really enjoyed the experiment using the Hicator.
Boring bar looks and works great!
Use a file any darned way you want.
"And then I have to block you" (this made my day). Another good video. Thanks Stefan!
Nice video, Stefan. Thank you for taking the time to make it. With regard to dragging a file: I was trained not to do so during my apprenticeship. However, after seeing Fireball Tool's video on the subject (go see it. He has a great channel, too), I have changed my mind. He PROVED that dragging a file whilst filing steel is NOT detrimental to the file. In fact, it actually was beneficial to the process. Perhaps there are situations where this is not true, but I have yet to experience one. As a millwright and a machinist I no longer worry about dragging my files, though it is so ingrained in me not to that I almost always don't just by reflex. I hope this is useful information. Please keep up the good work! Thanks again.
Very interesting Stefan - thanks for your time and thoughtfulness.
at 9 am (local time in Germany) this was posted 6 hours ago. You are obviously going through sleepless nights to get us some nice content to watch while having our morning coffee ;-)
Whats sleep? 😬
this was a good, simple demonstration of the difference in the modulus of elasticity for Tungsten/Carbide vs. Steels. Thanks Stephen
On the filing technique, fireball tools did a test rig on comparing the different filing techniques and the results were very interesting.
Excellent and informative video Stefan, as usual. Thank you for sharing this content.
Did he file a range of materials? Lifting the file on the return stroke is only useful, in my experience, when filing materials which are comparable in hardness with the file.
Freut mich das du mal wieder ne starke nummer rausgehauen hast!
Mit den maßen stimmt ja auch noch alles 👍
Danke!
So happy i checked my youtube notifications...althought its realy late here to.
Your video's are True jewel of calmt and serenty combined with expert mechanical skills.
Now i gonna watch cheers
Grtz from the netherlands Johny geerts
When I look videos like this , one of my first thoughts is that it's a pleasure seeing a master like him at work 🤔👍
We media blast the excess braze in the cutter shop at work and it works beautifully.
good job stefan..when you have to use tools with so much overhang, you have to use tools with hard metal handles and thus minimize vibrations...they are quite expensive but in china you can find them at reasonable prices...greetings from Spain
Nice project and as usual a great explanation and easily understood demonstration. Thanks for sharing
Finally some manual work again, thank you.
Toll, Stefan, habe wieder viel gelernt... 👍
Mach Dir nicht so viel Gedanken über das potenzielle Besserwissertum mancher Leute. Für unsereins ist es immer etwas schwer, das zu "notchen", aber wir dürfen uns nicht davon runterziehen lassen. 😎🤞
Thank you Stefan, very informative. You really are a master engineer!!
Stiffness is everything. And, not only in the workshop.
Thank you for another really informative video. I can only dream of achieving the degree of accuracy that you reach.
And the stiffness diminishes with age!!, See Fireball Tools and his experiments with filing, works on the back stroke just as well.
@@Dave.Wilson that's what she said toooo 😳😂
you can try to make slightly thicker dampened bar with this carbide rod. make a long tube out of tool steel over this carbide rod, with a loose fit, and fill the gap between tube and rod with a thick grease. there is a many recipes of a composite bars like that.
I've never heard of such a thing...I'd like to see that done
That was amazing. I expected the smaller diameter rod to have the most give but it was the heat treated, larger bar that moved the most.
Hi Stenfan , I'm new to this as I am hobbyist machinist, learning alot from your videos , plz keep them coming,
Thanks for the trigger, I'll have to make me one of those as well. I think Robin showed a different approach, boring what was left off the original tool and necking down the carbide shank, or something like this. I think I might try that one, since I have zero faith in my soldering skills....
Super Experiment, danke, Stefan! Ich liebe solche Näherungsexperimente, weil man damit ein Gefühl für die Dinge bekommt, ohne dass man strenge Wisenschaftlichkeit braucht. Danke!
Great Experiment! I love those approximations, giving us some kind of feel for material and forces, without the need for strict scientificity.
Pretty cool video. That "bonus" footage at the end was interesting.
Beautiful work!
My 5 axis CNC router at work has googly eyes on the feed override knob. glad I am not alone
Nice detailed work.Thank you.
yes ! gtwtr content !
I would try to use hard wire brush to remove mess from brazing, angle grinder brush would do fine
That silver solder job was masterfull
Great demonstration on the rigidity of different steels clear and easy to understand, I use tipped boring bars mainly for rough turning and prefere for fine finishing a HSS insert ground to the correct rake angle for the material being cut, it gives me more control of the finnish and l find it less likely to chatter.
That looks great.A fraction of the cost for a commercially available,solid carbide bar.Are the people complaining about your filing technique,buying your files?I think not.
A chinesium solid carbide insert boring bar this size costs about €30. (Remember the business end is Chinese here also). Probably just the blank with coolant holes costs as much
So you inspired me to get a deckel clone U2 single lip cutter which is so great for it's price and now you go and get some floorstanding thing haha.
Love your stuff and I do a little head dance to your intro music everytime.
Always interesting and instructive..
Thank you Master.
I wonder how much the added mass of the carbide helps damp the vibration along with the added stiffness?
Very nice job...enjoyed this. Thank you!
Nice tool hack! -- love your statment: "it wasn't too much work"...ha!..if you have a surface grinder and a cutter grinder :-) also love the practical science experiment. I try to teach my daughter that kind of practial thinking by measuring things and experimenting as much as possible.
Yeah, I used these machines, because they where the easiest way for me to accomplish the task :)
It should be easy transferable to many other classes of shop equipments - The head could also be milled or filed (dont drag the file :D ) at 45° and the carbide blank can be 45° Cut on a benchgrinder with a green silicon carbide wheel and careful checking with a protractor.
Thank you for the continuing education!
@StefanGotteswinter, I really appreciate your test regarding rigidity of the different materials.
The carbide boring bars have another factor to reduce chatter besides being stiffer. They are heavier, and more mass means lower natural frequency and less tendency to harmonic vibrations. I really hope that I got that right as English isn´t my native tounge. 🙂
Btw, this video was uploaded a year ago, but carbide boring bars are nowadays being sold on Ebay and they are not that expensive. But of course, you don´t get to chose what carbide tip to use and you don´t get to make anoter nice video if you buy them on Ebay. 🙂
That's fantastic. We need to transition the industry to carbide shanks entirely.
Surprised you ground all that length of flat on both sides as you reduced the stiffness a decent amount by doing that. It does make setup more convenient though.
Don`t you have a tractor show go to
@@rldoyle5705 well the most stiffness comes from the material furthest from the axis so if the goal is ultimate stiffness those are the last ones you would want to remove. Sandvik and Kennametal both preach about using only clamp style holders on their deep hole bars as the screw type on flats aren’t stiff enough. Obviously Stefan got the results he wanted so it doesn’t matter but I thought maybe the info might help someone going after stiffness gains for a job someday. You are right though I should probably just go back to the barn and not comment.
@@rldoyle5705 this is a curious comment. what do you mean by it?
@@warrenjones744 He may not be aware that Brian has a Master's in mechanical engineering. Very sharp guy.
I would hope Brian is thick skinned enough to let ignorant comments fly straight past him.
Love this quote: "Stefan: And, I'll have to block you."
Very nice demo! The squinty stuff was cool too!
great content as always. keep up the good work.
I wonder how much the extra stick out of the stainless and 4140 from the vise effected your results. Probably not much. Excellent project. You are among the most talented machinists out there. Superb work.
As an engineering student I can most certainly say that the elasticity constant, or Young's modulus most definitely changes between different alloys and heat treatments of steels. In fact it is one of the main reasons heat treatments and alloying is used
Yeah, but not by much, especially between different treatments of the same alloy. You're not going to find a steel with a 600 GPa modulus.
Although ferro-tic is really interesting...
Great video! Thank you Stefan!
Great video 👍 Stefan enjoyed the tool modification and I also enjoyed the AVE type of in-depth science experiment keep up with the great content and I am not going to mention your filing technique 😅
If only AvE did videos like that... Nowadays he's just sitting in front of a stove rambling about this that and the other.
Quit my subscription to him after many years recently.
@@herrgerd1684 yes less rambling
Love it when you mesmerize us, and send us off scratching our heads thinking about "deflection" in our sleep (@@)! Thx, don't know about others, but one day I would love too see you and Adam Savage do a "shop made tools" project video together :)> You both are always making improvements to and existing tool (@@)! Bear in TX.
The stiffess/flexing demonstration was very nice to see.
Wonderful work. You can do all my boring bars like this, but only if you use the correct filling technique and take a shot of Schnapps after you finish each of them while whistling the German National Anthem.
Standardbottle with coathanger at 90mm,, I luv it,, 🥰🤘.
Cheers Stefan,, 🍻😎👍
Nice ! Well done as usual ! Thanks !
We need a video of your new Bema grinder ASAP. Impatience is killing me.
Working on it 🙂
Considering price of some small boring bars I started using carbide end mills and they perform great likely because of this stiffness of carbide. I noticed you used polished insert on steel, i did that by mistake and got good finish I forgot was it stainless.
Interesting to se the testresults in the end!
Thank you very much this was a great learning video very interesting.
Podziwiam twoją jakość i dokładność. Full szacun.👍👌
Filing is like dancing - different techniques, personal preference. As a local advertisement says (for a casino, actually), You do you!
What would you do with the dead file? Throw it out or "repurpose" it?
Btw nice one, on pointing out on the flex modulus for hardened/non hardened bars.
I keep hardened things around - sometimes you can hardmill and grind parts that need to be hard directly from something already hardened.
@@StefanGotteswinter Like, say, form tools?
Hello Stefan, great video as always. Can you share brand and model of the grinding machine you have used?? Regards
The surface grinder? Thats a LIP515
Bloody brilliant.
did you ever try sophisticated multifix tool holders for boring bars if they were available for your toolpost size? much better grip than the standard ones and they actually decrease deflection and chatter because they don't work on friction only.
Yes, I have two of the 30mm boring bar holders - I use them on my larger 20mm boring bars with a split bushing - They are indeed very nice and rigid, but also annoyingly expensive.
As always you are an inspiration. Thank You
So good job
Hi Stefan, Keith Fenner shared and ole' machinists' trick of taping a block of lead to a work piece or bar that's vibrating.
Ha!!! YES! Block all the crazies. Thank You for being you 😆
Another interesting video. Thanks. I was just wondering, why you couldn’t use a small stone instead of the file?
Stones tend to load up with softer metals like the silver solder - but in general, yes, would work too :-)
Ok. I think you must have been referring to ruining the file from getting it filled up with silver. I thought you were afraid of dulling it on the hardened steel. That’s why I brought up using a stone.
@@greglaroche1753 he _was_ afraid of dulling it on the carbide, and the hardened steel, to a lesser extent). He wasn't concerned with clogging the file up with silver solder.
@@littlejackalo5326
That’s what I was thinking at first and wondered why he didn’t use a stone.
Nice silver solder work!
By using a carbide shank of the same diameter as the steel shank, you reduce the deflection by a factor of three due to the higher Young's modulus of the carbide. It would be good to complete the analysis by stating how you can reduce the deflection by the same factor of three if you increase the second moment of area of the (steel) bar (i.e. make it larger diameter). Since the I-value for a circle is proportional to the fourth power of the radius, the diameter only needs to increase by approx. 32% to achieve the same result.
Another excellent video, thank you.
Nice job, love your videos.
Well done! Also "Files" are consumable tooling.
Out of curiosity, how much more difficult would it have been to just mill the new material end to fit the cutter?
Edit: Now I'm closer to the end and I can see how intricate the cutout for the cutter actually is. I guess that would be rather more difficult than I 1st thought it would be.
fireball tools did an *excellent* video proving to those filing-technique pedants that THEY ARE WRONG! dragging the file increases rate of material removal and doesn't hurt file longevity at all.
I was hoping someone posted this. That said on such a hard material it's pretty much irrelevant, the file is going to get hurt whether it's dragged or not.
I have to mention that the demonstration fireball tool did was great but only applicable to modern off the shelf files. I inherited a couple dozen files from my great grandfather that where still brand new in the paper sleeve, if you drag these files the teeth will chip and you will kill the file in a couple of swipes. I absolutely murdered one because i wasn't thinking about it. They don't make things like they did 100 years ago, but in the case of files it might actually be a good thing. Now if you have a modern carbide file, then the old time methods still apply. Nothing like killing a $200 file in 2 seconds, only thing worse than dragging is dropping.
@@pcsmachineworks if the file is strong enough to cut metal going one way, how tf is it going to be damaged going the other way on the same metal? that sounds like some old wives' tales horseshite.
@@douglasharley2440 hard brittle materials chip easily, simple as that. The rest is basic metallurgy. When cutting the tooth is under compression and the force is directed into the tooth, this is when the material is the strongest. Dragging is just bouncing the tooth across the top and pulling the cutting edge away from the body of the tooth, the weakest for a brittle material. Spin a carbide endmill backwards once and try to cut with it, let me know what happens. Modern files are no where near as hard as the old hand made pieces where, and a solid carbide (not the crummy cheap grit ones) are even harder. I've smoked a few old files by dragging them, teeth stripped right off. Newer files are better metal which is more durable and slightly softer so not prone to the brittleness. Same as many other metals or materials. Well used punches and chissels chip at the strike end because they get hard and brittle, bandsaw blades with a lot of miles will shed teeth even though they are still sharp because they work harden and get brittle and chip off. Even concrete works in the same manner. No wives tales, just basic physics and science. Every one revered a file with such regard back in the day because each tooth was hand formed and they where very expensive, some still are. It definitely doesn't apply to most off the shelf mass produced files of nowadays, but at one time in history there was real truth to how a file should be used and why.
@@pcsmachineworks video proof, or I don't believe it. also, I don't got no ancient files so idgaf.
Great work man. Thanks for You efforts.
my father would have told me "the right filing technique is the one that doesn't take off too much material or otherwise ruin the job."
Exactly right, sensible pragmatism beats petty and pedantic finger wagging any day.
How the heck do they mould in spiral channels in that carbide blank, I'd like to know!
I would guess it would be EDM machined after the fact? I would love to see how it’s done though.
In my apprenticeship we filed without lifting but ours bench work projects were tolerated. It is impossible to file accurately while lifting. Files are not flat so constant contact and bluing insures the high spot of the file is removing the high spot of the part. The infamous U channel was our first project.
Can anyone tell me how they do the twisted through holes in solid Carbide rods???
Berlin Carbide corporate video english - short version - UA-cam
ua-cam.com/video/d-VKMxhe_I8/v-deo.html
How do they put those holes in carbide cutting tools? - UA-cam
ua-cam.com/video/CE6OxXRwYgs/v-deo.html
Danke
THANK YOU STEFAN, VERRY GOOD INTERSTING VIDIO. REGARDS RICHARD.
Fireball Tools has a video where he tested different filing techniques to the extreme and you would be surprised by the results. You make precision work look simple.
Stefan comonnn! You were supposed to show us a diamond and/or CBN rotary broach to drill a square hole into the carbide for mounting