sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid lost the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Bjorn Hudson I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
One might could also unplug the module and fashion a switch and external power source to manually cycle the pump. Then just cycle pump, bleed, repeat until there’s no air!
I'm not convinced this would work. Most systems have the control unit piggy backed on the valve block, therefore there will be no way of driving the solenoid valves or the motor through the connector. The connector is usually for comms, diagnostic light and power etc and sensor signals. Although it could be done you would need to program a PIC or MCU, first to tell the ABS module the ignition is on, then mimic the impulse from both wheel sensors to turn the diagnostic light off and activate the system then on both sensor channels you would need to send a signal that will trigger the abs. At this rate for most it's just easier to take it to a dealer or if you can find one buy a scan tool that will operate the ABS.
This video is on point. My motorcycle has braking problems since I changed calipers, brake master. Went to a lot of mechanics to bleed but there's still no improvement. Until I went to the dealer, they just connect my motorcycle to their computer then pressed the brakes. You can feel that fluids are flushing thru the ABS module. (Levers are shaking during flushing, just like when we pressed hard the levers and the ABS are triggered).
As I understand it, Harley Davidson’s system has the accumulator and pump closed, though there are a few aftermarket readers that can activate the HCU’s purge mode.
Considering getting another one and I’m a long way from a dealer. I’d mainly be concerned with the fluid in the HCU not getting flushed during fluid changes, as that is an expensive unit and critical for safety. Apparently Snap-On can communicate with an adapter and activate purge function, as can ITM HD2, and Vance and Hines fuel pack pro. A person could go out and activate ABS on the street, but I’d wonder if you’d get one long continuous cycle necessary to fully purge.... Current BMW is no problem, just bleed as normal. Their previous servo system actually had 2 hydraulic circuits- from the master cylinder to the HCU, and from the HCU to the caliper, so the HCU had little reservoirs you had to fill with a special funnel with a threaded and o ring sealed end.... glad they changed that. Anyway, great video!
All id say is that load compensators need to be open. If you remove the rear wheels then ensure you compress the trailing arms up to ensure the valves are open.
The only issue with the ABS on the KTM is the one that is common to nearly all ABS bikes is that air can be trapped in the pipework for the ABS unit. KTM dealers use a pressurised system to help overcome this. I would recommend that you ensure no air is introduced when bleeding, so reverse bleeding can be problematic. Normal bleeding will work, just be careful that the reservoir does not run dry - and if it does then gravity bleed until the air has risen back up into the reservoir before continuing with the bleeding else you can push air down into pipework where it can become trapped - in summary, normal bleed - pressure or vacuum can help, but take extra care not to introduce air into the line.
19 днів тому
Is it not easier to activate the abs by riding and breaking at low speed on a dirt road where abs will activate almost immediately after breaking? I do that with close system cars.
Yes. I did advocate using braking to activate the pump. But I'm not completely confident the average road rider has the skills necessary to do this off road on a bike without crashing and burning as a wheel breaks free, especially if its the front wheel turning right as this tends to open up the throttle then pin the wrist down into a lock - AKA whiskey throttle. Road slides tend to be a little more predictable for a bike. I have no issues doing it off road as slides are completely normal for anyone with those skills.
Had a question. Have a Rc390. 2018 model. Abs standard. Steel braided line. Everything is stock except master cylinder. I pressed the brake and tied it with the front wheel lock. I saw a video saying that it helps build pressure. When I tried it after 2 days and there wasn't any pressure but when I removed the zip tie the pressure came up. Does it mean that I have air in the system? New brake fluid. And while riding it's not spongy. Any suggestions
If the brakes are not spongy whilst riding then you don't have a problem. The brake system is designed to allow air to rise up into the master cylinder, so it sounds as if this happened whilst you had the lever tied back and once you released the lever, the air was able to move up into the master cylinder as it was designed to as the lever is operated.
@@MotoMirius so that means there's some amount of air in the system. So if I just do this again then crack open the bleed valve on the master then I guess that should solve my issue right.
@@MotoMirius while riding it's not spongy. But definitely lack of brake bite is there. I heard that if u zip tie the lever when it's pushed in completely it helps. So I did this but I didn't cut the zip tie. I kept the pressure on for 2 days. After 2 days when I went and pressed the lever( with the zip tie on ) the brake kinda like collapsed. Like there was no resistance or pressure. Like there was no fluid on the system. When I cut the zip tie and the lever came to original position then the pressure came back. The reservoir level didn't go down so I don't think the brakes are leaking. I think maybe there's air in the system and when it was compressed then the air came on top. And when I cut the zip tie maybe it went again back into the system. Any idea ? I've bled the brakes the usual way. Some people told me run the engine cause of abs and bleed. So I'm getting a lot of different opinions and idk what's right. I figured you have a duke 390 and that's similar to mine. So what would u suggest I do. The mechanic at the dealership is pretty much clueless. Some people told me it's definitely air. I had a small accident recently and the best easy to describe it is I was braking as hard as possible but I just wasn't stopping. Felt like skating on ice. And even the abs didn't come on. So I thought that's also a possibility that air was in the abs unit. ??
@@kevinpinheiro2485 OK. You need to identigy the core issue and work one step at a time. Lever trick only works for air that can come up the line. But with ABS this doesn't really work because of the way the brake lines are routed. Air doesn't go back into the line from the reservoir. So forget the lever trick, that isn't related. Running the engine does nothing to the ABS so forget that too. Does the ABS unit work when you are riding and press the rear brake hard? You will feel it in the lever. You said that you changed the front brake on the handlebar? What did you change it to? Have you changed it back to stock? Does the problem go away? You don't need to bleed the system after changing the handlebar unit, you just need to allow the air to bleed up into the reservoir.
I got a 92 cadillac deville that's got the abs pump.. I'm searching if I can remove the pump and run new brake lines from the master cylinder to all four wheels and bypass the abs pump..
I can't speak for that model but there should be no physical issue the the change, it's all mechanical and the ABS becomes a factor for things like traction control and when the wheels skid, it doesn't increase the braking effect - you may get dash lights/ error codes.
I think most of these problems are caused by air getting in to the accumlator and damper within the abs hydraulic unit; If the port of the accumator or damper is central and horizontal it will tap air in it when changing the hoses. Thus the nightmare begins. Triggering the motor and shutting the valves is only way it will bleed. I think what it's doing is breaking up the pockets of air in the damper/Accumulator smaller bubbls move easier. But to do it well you need a good fast contestant flow of break fluid preferably with srong surges from the lever. alternatively we could try rotating the unit so it's valve ports are vertical.
I quickly arrived to this conclusion whilst bleeding the brakes on my V Strom 1000 (18 model), according to the service manual Suzuki’s instructions are hook up the machine to a laptop with SMS software installed and then cycle the pump. I can get the rear brake to activate the ABS pump, but haven’t managed on the front (the bike has to travel faster than 18 mph to activate). The ABS pumps cost around £2000 or near to that last time I looked, the dealer charged me 50 quid in the end I wanted to be certain it was done.
Front shouldn't be hard to activate. It's something you should be comfortable achieving as you should be comfortable with doing an emergency stop on different types of surface. ABS will normally cut in just before you would get to maximum braking on a non ABS bike.
@@MotoMirius Well that’s what I thought, I can really haul on that front brake and get massive fork dive but no telltale rapid on/off - I’ll give it another go. Happy doing emergency stops, even the odd wheelie but at 60 years old I’m just not as bouncy as I once was should it all go tits up 🤣
@@andrewshore262 Well I know that feeling. You may need to get it onto a looser surface and just dab at the brakes. If it has valves inside the ABS unit they need to get flushed or they can stick. Good luck!
I wouldn’t put it on a front stand, the front wheel doesn’t need to rotate and it will make it more unstable. Even then the pump won’t cycle because you have no way of causing the wheels to hit the skid point which triggers the pump. Skäl. David
Does this open vs. closed ABS system design apply to automobiles, also? Specifically, what about a 2010 Buick Lucerne? I have seen brake bleed videos of this auto where they stated sometimes, but not always, they will require a second bleed after driving the car for a while if the brakes had become “spongy.” In other words, my question is does this PROVE a 2010 Buick Lucerne has a closed ABS system or simply that the initial bleed did not completely purge all the air from the open system?
It doesn't matter what vehicle ABS is fitted to. I can't really comment about specific vehicles, especially about ones that aren't sold where I live. This could result from poor design of the brake line system - and this is common, especially in relation to where the ABS is placed. It doesn't automatically result from the type of ABS unit itself.
The reason I asked about a 2010 Lucerne is because that is what my “pump and hold” helper and I had trouble getting a firm pedal with yesterday. This was after replacing all the pathetically minimally zinc-coated OEM lines (Read rusty rear lines-one had actually burst soon after a test hard stop during the first downpour following a summer-long drought to make sure the ABS system was working and would not allow vehicle to veer on the oil-slick road. Fortunately, it failed ~10 miles later while gently stopping for gas ⛽, not driving in traffic.) with CAD-bent-and-flared-with-factory angles stainless lines (linestogo, BLB-104-SS1I). We got a partial pedal on the second or third wheel, didn’t refill master cylinder soon enough, lost pedal and it hadn’t returned yet after bleeding all wheels twice before needing to stop to buy more fluid. The ABS unit is mounted on the car frame. Fashioned a vacuum bleeder from some hose and a heavy duty spray bottle (Harbor Freight, Niagara 58153) for next round of bleeding... 😑
Вы говорили можно прокачать передний тормоз оставив зажатую ручку тормозной машинки, не помогает, воздух немного находится в суппорте. Что делать? Прокачивал поршнями суппорта, воздух долго выходил, немного осталось там, что делать?
Воздух поднимается вверх - попытка откачать его не работает, если только вы не используете систему под давлением. Если у вас есть воздушная ловушка, вам нужно перемещать ее, пока воздух не сможет подняться - для этого может потребоваться отвинчивание суппортов. Удерживание рычага назад не может удалить воздушные ловушки, он удаляет только небольшие пузырьки в жидкости.
@@MotoMirius понятно, спасибо. Удалось прокачать - шприц и давление тормозной машинкой, удалил часть воздуха. Дальше самотёком вышли остатки воздуха. Кино ещё то, крайне тяжело удалить воздух.
Good advice as always Dave, I always thought it was the same process and not a problem as long as you don’t introduce air which you wouldn’t want to do using non ABS anyway 👍🏻
Cheers Dave. It’s a recurring question on forums because of the closed system bikes. I’m guessing these will become more common with stability control etc. Skäl
The point of this video is that it doesn't matter which system you have, it all works the same way when you bleed - even if you have a closed system, it will self bleed the ABS unit when the ABS unit activates.
@@ondrejmysak1251 There is no information, because there is no special method - just use your normal method of bleeding brakes - but I would caution you to make sure that you do not allow air to enter the system, for example by allowing the master cylinder to run dry, while doing so.
Thank you very much for this video. This idea of actuating the abs module by driving (in a safe environment) didn’t even come across my mind. Now, if we could just get some snow sometime this winter....
It does depend on the car/bike. My Jeep needs a DRB 3 tool - none of the aftermarket scanner's have anything like it. Top end DRB 3 specific emulator's exist ( under paid license to Fiat/Chrysler ) but they are exorbitant! As is owning any Chrysler product in general...
If you get air in an ABS module, you MUST activate the module to pump the air out of the cavities. If there is NO air, regular bleeding WILL work, but if air gets into the module from doing something like replacing the master cylinder, you have NO CHOICE but to activate the pump to clear the CAVITIES of air. DO YOUR RESEARCH!
Glad to see that you agree with me that on closed ABS modules activation is necessary if air is trapped in the module as described in the video. Skäl. David
Hey . i've just come across your vid . I need to replace the front ABS brake lines on my iron 883 (higher handle bars) . I am to purchase a ABS tee and two stainless steel braided brake lines . What is the best way to fit the tee without getting any air in the ABS system . Is it just a matter of being quick when undoing the existing tee ? I am a bit concerned about getting a fault on the OBC. Hopefully you get this and have time for a reply ? thanks in advance .
I'm not familiar with the ABS Iron line setup. But air only goes up and liquid only down, so if you can remove the existing line at point where the joint points upwards, no air will get into the main system. Replace the line and then making sure that joint doesn't move and stays pointing up, bleed as shown in the video link I'm adding here. That will replace the air in the line you've added with brake fluid without getting air into the ABS system. ua-cam.com/video/11gSRKexUPM/v-deo.html Good luck!
Typically no. But air can get trapped in the brake lines to the ABS pump. I’d recommend a vacuum bleeder (cheap to buy). I will try to link one below in the next few days. Make sure you bleed in the right sequence - normally work from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Vacuum pump can help pull any air trapped in the lines. Good luck. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius I thought there might be some air in the ABS module after changing master cylinder and bled all wheels. It drove me crazy a whole day. Now I feel releif. Thank you very much for help Skäl David. I will be looking forward your link for the vacuum pump :)
Very informative video. I have a 2017 HD with a closed system. It has a self check for the ABS. I have asked the dealer service dept., but no one seems to know. Does the ABS system actually operate the valves and pump during this self check and if so, would this not actually remove the old fluid from the unit after several cycles? Thank-you.
As I Understand it Harris, the self check runs as part of the startup of a HD. So you need to mark sure you don’t turn the ignition on whilst bleeding your brakes in case you get air lodged in the closed part of the circuit. But on the upside once you’ve done the bleeding you don’t need to operate the ABS whilst riding. A few cycles of turning the ignition on and you should be good to rebleed the now contaminated fluid. Skäl David
I own a 2014 Honda CB1100 with ABS, I have no rear brake at all, I can't get any brake fluid out of my rear caliper, I am thinking that there is something wrong with the ABS Modulator which has the pump inside. But my front brakes are fine, that tells me that have to be something else beside the pump, I have been reading the Shop manual for a day o so, to troubleshoot the ABS brake system on my bike, according to this manual most of the ABS Modulator issues are caused by corrosion on the electrical connection, and I am hoping that this is the problem, a brand new Modulator for this bike cost $ 1,400.00. I can buy myself another bike. So in a day or so I will go deep in to these famous ABS control brain. The electronic system of the ABS communicate with the tech by how many times the ABS indicator blinks and how long the light stays on during the blinking. DTC =Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Short blink= 0.3 sec. Mid blink = 1.3 sec. Long blink= 3.6 sec. I will advise to anyone that has ABS problems to purchase a Shop Manual and try to fix it yourself, otherwise it will cost a ton of money at list $1,000.00 at 110 dollars an hour. Thank you for your video I really enjoyed...EZ.
Good luck with that. I would only assume that the problem is the ABS after first eliminating all the usual issues with the rear brake - you haven't mentioned if you have done any of that. It would seem unusual for the ABS to have blocked the system as ABS only operates when triggered and until then the braking system is free flow. I would recommend that people buy the manual for any vehicle they buy, even if you don't do the work yourself - at least you will have some idea of what is happening.
Hello mate, i liked and subscribed.. well explained video and a good clear voice!.. could you tell me I have a citroen berlingo 04 1.9 diesel.. I've had to replace the brake fluid reservoir and the master cylinder.. I can't for the life of me bleed the brakes it draws fluid in then when you stop pumping the pedel and bleeding the fluid backs up and over spills the filler spout, hardly any fluid comes out the calipers yet a foamy mix of thousands of air bubbles and little fluid does if anything as its intermittent. Can you tell me if it's an open or closed system on the berlingo 600d as I can't find any information and if there is a trick to release trapped air.. I pray I hope I haven't damaged either the master cylinder or servo 🤷♀️ thanks.
I’m no expert on the systems used on all vehicles. Open or closed is unlikely to be the cause of your issue. I would suspect your issue might be with the servo. Good luck. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius wow, thanks David for your speedy reply 👍 sorry I didn't think you'd know off the top of your head but wondered if you knew how I could source the information as that's where I was stuck.. is it also worth mentioning it has ABS and obviously air has entered the entire system? my suspicions are air is trapped and somehow needs to be bled.. maybe directly off the ABS unit or would i need to drive it and apply the brakes like you were explaining with the bike? to activate the pump?? Sorry about spell check on previous message, been corrected 😆✌
ABS pump is unlikely to introduce air bubbles, especially since it won't be active in normal bleeding. Depends if you are bleeding with the ignition on or off. Air could be entering from a cracked line, but it sounds more like the servo to me. Some systems will autobleed if the igniton is on because the servo will start pressurising the system, but I can see people mentioning manually bleeding their Belingos, which suggests that you have a blockage between master and slave cylinders, and one that is introducing air. That you've replaced the fluid reservoir is a point of failure. You'll need someone who is familiar with that system - it isn't a generic bleeding or ABS issue.
@@MotoMirius just watching other videos your supposed to bleed the master cylinder just as you do at each wheel (bleed nipple) with the brakes so that's where I've been going completely wrong for a start then proceed to bleed in the right sequence.. I also know ABS wont create or introduce bubbles what I'm trying to say is I would have definitely introduced a ton of air into it and is there some known rule of thumb when essentially flushing and refilling a system with ABS.. I'm not a complete novice, I'm a carpenter by trade but turn my hand to anything.. always have, but usually (by coincidence or jinx?) Never get the same mechanical issue twice 🤷♀️ so forever learning ✌
Adam Price there is no bleed nipple on the master cylinder. You can bleed air through the master cylinder but you will not get fluid back flow up through the master cylinder unless your master cylinder is faulty.
Aren't you just pulling the brake lever just like we would normally do in our day to day riding?If so then wouldn't our day to day braking do the trick anyways.?
Yes - it is how the engineers who designed the brakes intended the system to work - a certain amount of air can be created in the system and will bleed in normal riding. If there is a lot of air then the system needs a bit of a helping hand to accelerate the process and you wouldn't want to ride with brakes that aren't fully functioning.
Thank you! You really helped me a lot. I’m working with an open system on a Ford Edge SUV. I’m going to do this after I replace the ABS module. Because that’s where the dealer wants to charge a way higher price to bleed the ABS module. Instead I’ll engage the ABS by going in reverse and hitting the brakes hard a few times as you described, forcing the air into the system. Then change the brake fluid by bleeding the brakes until my fluid runs clear. You will visually see it by attaching a clear tube to the bleeder valve. I’ll Do that a few times. Compare the color of my brake fluid to the new fluid and see if it’s necessary to replace it again. Saves money and the job is done right. They also wanted to charge a high cost to reprogram the ABS electronic module. An easy get around is to put the existing electronic module on the hydraulic side. Now No programming is necessary. Thanks again
Well done! Finally a proper explanation of bleeding ABS brake systems. You helped me to understand the whole mystery regarding the brake systems with ABS pumps. Thanks a lot for making this video. (I will include a link to your video when making comments on youtube if you don't mind.)
thanks for the advice, I have a 650 bandit 08 model with abs, and replaced pads and bleed the unit last year. it got from being slightly unfirm feeling to become a little firmer, however I do think that it might still be a bit on the soft side.. but I have read that bikes of this generation and older etc. often have a bit more spongy brake lever feel in comparison to brand new bikes that run slightly better gear on them. what is your take on this:)? I have no issues with stopping or brakes not applying enough force, but I don't have the ability to ride with just one finger on the lever like on a newer bike. It haven't really ever bothered me, but I would like to hear your insights on this:) -cheers
Older brake systems often had rubber hoses which typically had a service replacement life of four years. If you have old rubber hoses then the walls can weaken and expand under pressure giving a softer feel - which is why upgrades to braided hoses were popular. That said with braided hoses, an older system will give just as hard a feel as a new system. Radial brakes and master cylinders can give a more powerful braking effect for less effort (which is what you describe about one finger) but they aren't firmer because they run the same hoses and fluid. Modern electronics systems typically act to reduce braking effect - its commonly accepted that in an emergency stop ABS stops slower than an experienced rider without ABS. I was out on the KTM today doing stoppies and wondering why it was difficult, then I switched it into supermoto mode which reduces the ABS effect and nearly went over the handlebars because the front brake grabbed so hard for less effort.
@@MotoMirius I reckon that I should consider replacing and upgading my hoses next then:P I do indeed have rubber hoses, and I have suspected them to have some effect on the brake feel. Thanks for the reply, much appreciated:)
I forgot to add that since you felt the system get firmer you likely had or have air in the system. This is a downside of ABS as the extra pipe work routing makes it easier to have trapped air which is hard to get out.
@@MotoMirius yeah, either that or ancient fluids:P but it's never been as bad as a system full of air, like a mate of mine's was, his was really bad. this is as you say most likely suffering from tired hoses of the rubber kind:)
@@mortenbakke2810 tired hoses don't get firmer - that tends to be air. Which isn't to say that hoses aren't an issue, but you may have both adding to the picture.
Hi David, I know you're talking about bikes, but would you be so kind to give me your advice on car brakes? (I believe when it comes to ABS, the ABS pump does the same job.) My question is: Would it be easier to bleed car brakes when ABS fuses (for ABS and ABS relay) have been removed? Note: On my old car without ABS I was able to bleed the brakes much easier, now on the new car I can hardly press/pump the brake pedal ( it goes, but very hard).
Depends how new the car is and how much the electronics are involved - traction control etc. With older ABS systems the pump only kicks in as it detects the wheel starting to skid - so the ABS doesn't activate when stationary - hence the need to activate the ABS pump if you have air trapped inside it. If you have an open system, no fluid remains within the pump so there is no need to remove fuses, If you have a closed system there will be a small amount of fluid trapped within the pump but not enough to make any difference given that you will almost never replace every trace of the old fluid - so there is no need to remove fuses. If you can't press the brake pedal and you've got a bleeder valve open then you may have a pump in the system which isn't activated when the ignition is off. You would need specific advice based on the make and model of car - normally there will be a forum which specialises in your car and you will find the question has already been asked there many times. Good luck! Skäl David
@@MotoMirius MANY THANKS DAVID. Some people say things like: ''Disabling the ABS unit will allow fluid to flow through unrestricted for a better flow when bleeding air outta the system.'' ''Disabling ABS is just to make sure flow is unrestricted, no matter how hard ya try pushing pedal through the floor the ABS will only let the brakes engage so much.'' From your video I understood that unless I run the ABS pump with special device or just by braking hard I will not get the old brake fluid moving through ABS unit (on closed system). 1. So is there any chance that by removing the fuses you will allow ''better - not total'' flow through ABS unit and therefore the brake pedal will get softer (or it's just a myth) and you always need to operate the pump on closed system? 2. Master cylinder / brake bleeding - using vacuum brake bleeding kit (a gun). Is it good idea to operate the master cylinder at the end (by pressing the brake pedal) after all 4 wheels were bled by gun or it's unnecessary as the new brake fluid passed through it completely when sucked from each bleeder valve? P.S.: I looked around, believe me (forums). P.S.: I'm still able to bleed the brakes, but it's hard work. :-) My car is only 4 years old. Have a nice one David.
@@peterx7623 the ABS unit only runs when activated. Unless you are driving whilst bleeding the brakes it won't activate. Taking the fuse out will not make any difference. Open or closed makes no difference to bleeding. I don't see the logic behind the suggestion. If you have a brake booster in the system that can have an impact - try using the brakes when the ignition is off and it can be very hard to press on the brakes. If you've bled the brakes, operating the master cylinder won't have much effect.
@@MotoMirius Alright, no problem, but you see that's the kind of answers you find on forums. :-0 I guess I'll have to get in touch with dealer again (this time different branch) and try to find answers there. In the service manual I found only bleeding sequence (a picture only) and nothing about changing ABS unit. P.S.: All cars have the brake booster even the old ones (if ofcourse you don't go back more than 93 years before a brake booster was invented). :-) Anyway, thanks DAVID. Have a safe ride.
@@peterx7623 I've owned lots of cars without brake boosters but probably true that all modern ones have, along with power steering etc. I suspect the problem you are having is that you are expecting a different answer. The problem with remote diagnosis is that the problem is always the thing that hasn't been mentioned but would be obvious once you get hands on. Good luck with the dealer.
Nice job David, well explained, and interesting to watch. Not bled any ABS brakes on a bike yet, done a few car ones, and they all seemed ok after I had fiddled :)
only video out there that actually knows what his talking about im know mechanic but know how to service my bikes iv spoken to a number of mechanics at bike shops were we've almost got into a fall blown row because im telling them i cant bleed them because im only pergine the front circuit of air and not the fall system eg abs pump so still got a spongy lever there answer is your talking nonsense just bleed in conventional way looking at me like im an idiot . i know i should of took to main dealer which it was booked in for tuesday morning the day after the lock down anyway good video proves to me i wasn't talking nonsense
Thanks. Some people over think it, some dealers and mechanics deliberately spread misinformation to scare people out of doing jobs that they could easily do themselves. Skäl David
Slamming on your brakes to activate the ABS system does not work. The reason should be obvious. When you do that, ABS will pulsate but it will not move brake fluid along the brake lines. With the bleeders closed, brake fluid can't move through the brake lines. To bleed brakes, including the ABS system, the bleeder screws must be open so fluid can move through the brake lines. When the bleeders are closed, brake fluid temporarily moves slightly but returns when braking is released. Or, to put it another way, if the bleeders are closed, the brake fluid has no place to go. Also, I'm skeptical of your claim that most ABS systems are open. My Triumph Rocket III Touring, for example has a closed ABS system. To bleed the ABS system, ABS must be cycled using software. The same is true for my SUV and my truck. So I suspect that more bikes than you suggest have closed systems. That's one reason why DealerTool, TuneEcu, etc., are so popular. I'm guessing that most Triumphs have closed ABS systems because there are so many YT videos showing software being used to cycle the ABS pump to bleed ABS. My factory service manual explicitly stated that software must be used to bleed the ABS system. I'm suspect that most motorcycle ABS systems are fairly universal made by just a few companies. I can't say for sure that you are incorrect in your claim without researching many different motorcycles but I think more motorcycles ABS systems are closed than you suggest.
If Triumph are using a closed system, you can expect to find it on all their bikes, they will use common components and designs to save stocking costs and increase design efficiency - it doesn't give you any data on what other manufacturers are using. Yes, you can use the software tools to run the ABS, and of course that is the ideal situation, but most riders don't have access to them.
Manufacturers complicate simple systems with TECHNOLOGY!!! That should be said with huge echo effect on the last word. Yes the god called TECHNOLOGY that has ruined the auto industry is now working to screw your motorbike too. I have a GSX650F (Bandit really) and the ABS pump failed on it and after much misdiagnoses and expensive labor I realized that. So just before I left the dealership with my rear brakes useless and wondering why I would pay $2000 for a new ABS pump for a bike I payed $4500 for, the service manager said I could fix it cheap. I was all elephant ears. He explained that if you seal off the ABS pump and run the hoses from the master cylinders to the calipers which of course bypasses that stupid thing...then Bob's your uncle and tech can take a freakin' hike. And that's what I did and I'm loving it!!! Who needs ABS on a bike??? I've had plenty before and never needed it. It's purpose is so that the steering doesn't lock when hammering the brakes. That works fine on a car but bikes are different and I won't go into it. But balance of the bike and kinetics are part of it. What nonsense and I'm sure there's lots who disagree with and that's fine. But if I get a car I will never get one with a glass mat battery (AGM) because of the price and the b.s. you go through when replacing it. And you can ruin the entire computer system if you're not careful with new cars. And that applies to a long list of replacing simple things made complex for simple systems that have been made complex. It's getting crazy out there and it's increasing by the minute.
Unfortunately with modern bikes the ABS unit is integrated into many of the riding modes so eliminating it isn't going to be that easy because you will have the same electronics and ECU issues. All safety driven and yes, it will not get better.
I know how to do it but dealers don't charge much for a complete break fluid flush with an ABS system. PLEASE get rid of your intro and ending music, it is very LOUD and annoying! ;-)
Feel free to check out my brake bleeding videos if you need help with brake bleeding. The point of this video is that ABS is no different. As such there is nothing to show.
I recommend increasing the playback speed if videos are going too slowly for your own taste - you can always stop and slow it down again for the information you need.
Great overview of the process and sound advice fella. Ride safe
Cheers GT. Hope you've been enjoying the weather. Skäl
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid lost the account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
@Langston Nash Instablaster =)
@Bjorn Hudson I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Bjorn Hudson It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
Thank you makes sense bled mine on ktm duke and later found rear sometimes goes down like theirs air so will bleed out again thanks for tip
One might could also unplug the module and fashion a switch and external power source to manually cycle the pump. Then just cycle pump, bleed, repeat until there’s no air!
Indeed. There are options for those who are more electronically minded! Skäl David
I'm not convinced this would work.
Most systems have the control unit piggy backed on the valve block, therefore there will be no way of driving the solenoid valves or the motor through the connector. The connector is usually for comms, diagnostic light and power etc and sensor signals.
Although it could be done you would need to program a PIC or MCU, first to tell the ABS module the ignition is on, then mimic the impulse from both wheel sensors to turn the diagnostic light off and activate the system then on both sensor channels you would need to send a signal that will trigger the abs.
At this rate for most it's just easier to take it to a dealer or if you can find one buy a scan tool that will operate the ABS.
This video is on point. My motorcycle has braking problems since I changed calipers, brake master. Went to a lot of mechanics to bleed but there's still no improvement. Until I went to the dealer, they just connect my motorcycle to their computer then pressed the brakes. You can feel that fluids are flushing thru the ABS module. (Levers are shaking during flushing, just like when we pressed hard the levers and the ABS are triggered).
It's important to activate the ABS pump on a regular basis, so good to hear that you got it sorted.
Thanks for the advice.
As I understand it, Harley Davidson’s system has the accumulator and pump closed, though there are a few aftermarket readers that can activate the HCU’s purge mode.
Closed is mostly only an issue if you are fitting a new pump, but useful to know that HD run a closed system. Skäl David
Considering getting another one and I’m a long way from a dealer. I’d mainly be concerned with the fluid in the HCU not getting flushed during fluid changes, as that is an expensive unit and critical for safety. Apparently Snap-On can communicate with an adapter and activate purge function, as can ITM HD2, and Vance and Hines fuel pack pro. A person could go out and activate ABS on the street, but I’d wonder if you’d get one long continuous cycle necessary to fully purge....
Current BMW is no problem, just bleed as normal. Their previous servo system actually had 2 hydraulic circuits- from the master cylinder to the HCU, and from the HCU to the caliper, so the HCU had little reservoirs you had to fill with a special funnel with a threaded and o ring sealed end.... glad they changed that.
Anyway, great video!
All id say is that load compensators need to be open. If you remove the rear wheels then ensure you compress the trailing arms up to ensure the valves are open.
How would you bleed the brake of Ktm duke with abs? Need your help to explain it in details if possible thanks
The only issue with the ABS on the KTM is the one that is common to nearly all ABS bikes is that air can be trapped in the pipework for the ABS unit. KTM dealers use a pressurised system to help overcome this. I would recommend that you ensure no air is introduced when bleeding, so reverse bleeding can be problematic. Normal bleeding will work, just be careful that the reservoir does not run dry - and if it does then gravity bleed until the air has risen back up into the reservoir before continuing with the bleeding else you can push air down into pipework where it can become trapped - in summary, normal bleed - pressure or vacuum can help, but take extra care not to introduce air into the line.
Is it not easier to activate the abs by riding and breaking at low speed on a dirt road where abs will activate almost immediately after breaking? I do that with close system cars.
Yes. I did advocate using braking to activate the pump. But I'm not completely confident the average road rider has the skills necessary to do this off road on a bike without crashing and burning as a wheel breaks free, especially if its the front wheel turning right as this tends to open up the throttle then pin the wrist down into a lock - AKA whiskey throttle. Road slides tend to be a little more predictable for a bike. I have no issues doing it off road as slides are completely normal for anyone with those skills.
Had a question. Have a Rc390. 2018 model. Abs standard. Steel braided line. Everything is stock except master cylinder. I pressed the brake and tied it with the front wheel lock. I saw a video saying that it helps build pressure. When I tried it after 2 days and there wasn't any pressure but when I removed the zip tie the pressure came up. Does it mean that I have air in the system? New brake fluid. And while riding it's not spongy. Any suggestions
If the brakes are not spongy whilst riding then you don't have a problem. The brake system is designed to allow air to rise up into the master cylinder, so it sounds as if this happened whilst you had the lever tied back and once you released the lever, the air was able to move up into the master cylinder as it was designed to as the lever is operated.
@@MotoMirius so that means there's some amount of air in the system. So if I just do this again then crack open the bleed valve on the master then I guess that should solve my issue right.
@@kevinpinheiro2485 What issue do you have? You tell me that the brakes are not spongy when you ride?
@@MotoMirius while riding it's not spongy. But definitely lack of brake bite is there. I heard that if u zip tie the lever when it's pushed in completely it helps. So I did this but I didn't cut the zip tie. I kept the pressure on for 2 days. After 2 days when I went and pressed the lever( with the zip tie on ) the brake kinda like collapsed. Like there was no resistance or pressure. Like there was no fluid on the system. When I cut the zip tie and the lever came to original position then the pressure came back. The reservoir level didn't go down so I don't think the brakes are leaking. I think maybe there's air in the system and when it was compressed then the air came on top. And when I cut the zip tie maybe it went again back into the system. Any idea ? I've bled the brakes the usual way. Some people told me run the engine cause of abs and bleed. So I'm getting a lot of different opinions and idk what's right. I figured you have a duke 390 and that's similar to mine. So what would u suggest I do. The mechanic at the dealership is pretty much clueless. Some people told me it's definitely air. I had a small accident recently and the best easy to describe it is I was braking as hard as possible but I just wasn't stopping. Felt like skating on ice. And even the abs didn't come on. So I thought that's also a possibility that air was in the abs unit. ??
@@kevinpinheiro2485 OK. You need to identigy the core issue and work one step at a time.
Lever trick only works for air that can come up the line. But with ABS this doesn't really work because of the way the brake lines are routed. Air doesn't go back into the line from the reservoir. So forget the lever trick, that isn't related.
Running the engine does nothing to the ABS so forget that too.
Does the ABS unit work when you are riding and press the rear brake hard? You will feel it in the lever.
You said that you changed the front brake on the handlebar? What did you change it to?
Have you changed it back to stock? Does the problem go away? You don't need to bleed the system after changing the handlebar unit, you just need to allow the air to bleed up into the reservoir.
I got a 92 cadillac deville that's got the abs pump.. I'm searching if I can remove the pump and run new brake lines from the master cylinder to all four wheels and bypass the abs pump..
I can't speak for that model but there should be no physical issue the the change, it's all mechanical and the ABS becomes a factor for things like traction control and when the wheels skid, it doesn't increase the braking effect - you may get dash lights/ error codes.
@@MotoMirius thanks for your reply.
I think most of these problems are caused by air getting in to the accumlator and damper within the abs hydraulic unit; If the port of the accumator or damper is central and horizontal it will tap air in it when changing the hoses. Thus the nightmare begins. Triggering the motor and shutting the valves is only way it will bleed. I think what it's doing is breaking up the pockets of air in the damper/Accumulator smaller bubbls move easier. But to do it well you need a good fast contestant flow of break fluid preferably with srong surges from the lever.
alternatively we could try rotating the unit so it's valve ports are vertical.
I quickly arrived to this conclusion whilst bleeding the brakes on my V Strom 1000 (18 model), according to the service manual Suzuki’s instructions are hook up the machine to a laptop with SMS software installed and then cycle the pump. I can get the rear brake to activate the ABS pump, but haven’t managed on the front (the bike has to travel faster than 18 mph to activate). The ABS pumps cost around £2000 or near to that last time I looked, the dealer charged me 50 quid in the end I wanted to be certain it was done.
Front shouldn't be hard to activate. It's something you should be comfortable achieving as you should be comfortable with doing an emergency stop on different types of surface. ABS will normally cut in just before you would get to maximum braking on a non ABS bike.
@@MotoMirius Well that’s what I thought, I can really haul on that front brake and get massive fork dive but no telltale rapid on/off - I’ll give it another go. Happy doing emergency stops, even the odd wheelie but at 60 years old I’m just not as bouncy as I once was should it all go tits up 🤣
@@andrewshore262 Well I know that feeling. You may need to get it onto a looser surface and just dab at the brakes. If it has valves inside the ABS unit they need to get flushed or they can stick. Good luck!
Does the duke 390 have a closed abs system?
As far as I'm aware it's open - but in practice it doesn't really matter.
Could you put the bike on a front and rear paddock stands and run the R wheel then apply brakes to cycle the abs pumps?
I wouldn’t put it on a front stand, the front wheel doesn’t need to rotate and it will make it more unstable. Even then the pump won’t cycle because you have no way of causing the wheels to hit the skid point which triggers the pump. Skäl. David
Does this open vs. closed ABS system design apply to automobiles, also? Specifically, what about a 2010 Buick Lucerne? I have seen brake bleed videos of this auto where they stated sometimes, but not always, they will require a second bleed after driving the car for a while if the brakes had become “spongy.” In other words, my question is does this PROVE a 2010 Buick Lucerne has a closed ABS system or simply that the initial bleed did not completely purge all the air from the open system?
It doesn't matter what vehicle ABS is fitted to. I can't really comment about specific vehicles, especially about ones that aren't sold where I live. This could result from poor design of the brake line system - and this is common, especially in relation to where the ABS is placed. It doesn't automatically result from the type of ABS unit itself.
The reason I asked about a 2010 Lucerne is because that is what my “pump and hold” helper and I had trouble getting a firm pedal with yesterday. This was after replacing all the pathetically minimally zinc-coated OEM lines (Read rusty rear lines-one had actually burst soon after a test hard stop during the first downpour following a summer-long drought to make sure the ABS system was working and would not allow vehicle to veer on the oil-slick road. Fortunately, it failed ~10 miles later while gently stopping for gas ⛽, not driving in traffic.) with CAD-bent-and-flared-with-factory angles stainless lines (linestogo, BLB-104-SS1I). We got a partial pedal on the second or third wheel, didn’t refill master cylinder soon enough, lost pedal and it hadn’t returned yet after bleeding all wheels twice before needing to stop to buy more fluid. The ABS unit is mounted on the car frame. Fashioned a vacuum bleeder from some hose and a heavy duty spray bottle (Harbor Freight, Niagara 58153) for next round of bleeding... 😑
Yamaha's have a mode you can put the bike into to manually actuate the abs. Just requires a jumper cable.
Good to know and great that Yamaha have made that possible.
Вы говорили можно прокачать передний тормоз оставив зажатую ручку тормозной машинки, не помогает, воздух немного находится в суппорте. Что делать? Прокачивал поршнями суппорта, воздух долго выходил, немного осталось там, что делать?
Воздух поднимается вверх - попытка откачать его не работает, если только вы не используете систему под давлением. Если у вас есть воздушная ловушка, вам нужно перемещать ее, пока воздух не сможет подняться - для этого может потребоваться отвинчивание суппортов. Удерживание рычага назад не может удалить воздушные ловушки, он удаляет только небольшие пузырьки в жидкости.
@@MotoMirius понятно, спасибо. Удалось прокачать - шприц и давление тормозной машинкой, удалил часть воздуха. Дальше самотёком вышли остатки воздуха. Кино ещё то, крайне тяжело удалить воздух.
Good advice as always Dave, I always thought it was the same process and not a problem as long as you don’t introduce air which you wouldn’t want to do using non ABS anyway 👍🏻
Cheers Dave. It’s a recurring question on forums because of the closed system bikes. I’m guessing these will become more common with stability control etc. Skäl
Please, I can't find information about Bandit 650 2010. Which system is here? What is best method for this ABS system?
The point of this video is that it doesn't matter which system you have, it all works the same way when you bleed - even if you have a closed system, it will self bleed the ABS unit when the ABS unit activates.
@@MotoMirius I know, But you spoke about bandit ans ABS system on them. I cannost find any information about bleeding abs system in service manual
@@ondrejmysak1251 There is no information, because there is no special method - just use your normal method of bleeding brakes - but I would caution you to make sure that you do not allow air to enter the system, for example by allowing the master cylinder to run dry, while doing so.
Worked for me....this guy is good.
Well done! Watching is not the same as doing, so great work.
Thank you very much for this video. This idea of actuating the abs module by driving (in a safe environment) didn’t even come across my mind. Now, if we could just get some snow sometime this winter....
Yeah snow would be just perfect for that. Skäl. David
Clear and precise instruction, and to top it off you only said "erm" three times, others are erm every erm other erm word. well done.
I erm mostly when I’m making it up as I go. Skäl. David
That was BLEEDIN great! Good job mate!
Ha! I see what you did there! Thanks for that. Skäl. David
Very well explained, now I have a clear understanding, thank you for taking the time to go through it. 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
You can buy scanners to bleed abs with cheap scanners for under 200
It does depend on the car/bike. My Jeep needs a DRB 3 tool - none of the aftermarket scanner's have anything like it. Top end DRB 3 specific emulator's exist ( under paid license to Fiat/Chrysler ) but they are exorbitant!
As is owning any Chrysler product in general...
If you get air in an ABS module, you MUST activate the module to pump the air out of the cavities. If there is NO air, regular bleeding WILL work, but if air gets into the module from doing something like replacing the master cylinder, you have NO CHOICE but to activate the pump to clear the CAVITIES of air. DO YOUR RESEARCH!
Glad to see that you agree with me that on closed ABS modules activation is necessary if air is trapped in the module as described in the video. Skäl. David
So how do you activate the pump to bleed the system
You could use a device like an Autel Maxicheck pro it has an abs bleed function ;-)
Good advice. There are tools out there and in the long run probably still cheaper than taking it to a pro.
Maxicheck Pro doesn’t do motorcycles, and in fact even with cars it generally only covers models from 2005-2012
Great to know thanks. I’m assuming there are tools out there or they will be developed as time goes by. Skäl. David
Hey . i've just come across your vid . I need to replace the front ABS brake lines on my iron 883 (higher handle bars) . I am to purchase a ABS tee and two stainless steel braided brake lines . What is the best way to fit the tee without getting any air in the ABS system . Is it just a matter of being quick when undoing the existing tee ? I am a bit concerned about getting a fault on the OBC. Hopefully you get this and have time for a reply ? thanks in advance .
I'm not familiar with the ABS Iron line setup. But air only goes up and liquid only down, so if you can remove the existing line at point where the joint points upwards, no air will get into the main system. Replace the line and then making sure that joint doesn't move and stays pointing up, bleed as shown in the video link I'm adding here. That will replace the air in the line you've added with brake fluid without getting air into the ABS system. ua-cam.com/video/11gSRKexUPM/v-deo.html Good luck!
@@MotoMirius Thank you for replying !! gonna give it a go and will let you know the outcome . Science always wins !!
Do I have to bleed ABS after changing fluid master cylinder? I bleeded the four wheels but still sometimes break padal goes soft when pressing!
Typically no. But air can get trapped in the brake lines to the ABS pump. I’d recommend a vacuum bleeder (cheap to buy). I will try to link one below in the next few days. Make sure you bleed in the right sequence - normally work from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Vacuum pump can help pull any air trapped in the lines. Good luck. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius I thought there might be some air in the ABS module after changing master cylinder and bled all wheels. It drove me crazy a whole day. Now I feel releif. Thank you very much for help Skäl David. I will be looking forward your link for the vacuum pump :)
Hey Sir, I like your Suzuki Bandit! BTW I got here searching info on how to bleed my car's ABS. Thanks for the explanation!
Very informative video. I have a 2017 HD with a closed system. It has a self check for the ABS. I have asked the dealer service dept., but no one seems to know. Does the ABS system actually operate the valves and pump during this self check and if so, would this not actually remove the old fluid from the unit after several cycles? Thank-you.
As I Understand it Harris, the self check runs as part of the startup of a HD. So you need to mark sure you don’t turn the ignition on whilst bleeding your brakes in case you get air lodged in the closed part of the circuit. But on the upside once you’ve done the bleeding you don’t need to operate the ABS whilst riding. A few cycles of turning the ignition on and you should be good to rebleed the now contaminated fluid. Skäl David
How you will bleed the ABS module ??
Is that for an open or closed loop module? Is that bleeding fluid or air from the module? Skäl. David
Is there a way to know if a car has an open or closed system?
Check the manuals - that part is inside the pump so you won't see except by taking the pump apart.
I own a 2014 Honda CB1100 with ABS, I have no rear brake at all, I can't get any brake fluid out of my rear caliper, I am thinking that there is something wrong with the ABS Modulator which has the pump inside.
But my front brakes are fine, that tells me that have to be something else beside the pump, I have been reading the Shop manual for a day o so, to troubleshoot the ABS brake system on my bike, according to this manual most of the ABS Modulator issues are caused by corrosion on the electrical connection, and I am hoping that this is the problem, a brand new Modulator for this bike cost $ 1,400.00. I can buy myself another bike.
So in a day or so I will go deep in to these famous ABS control brain.
The electronic system of the ABS communicate with the tech by how many times the ABS indicator blinks and how long the light stays on during the blinking.
DTC =Diagnostic Trouble Codes.
Short blink= 0.3 sec.
Mid blink = 1.3 sec.
Long blink= 3.6 sec.
I will advise to anyone that has ABS problems to purchase a Shop Manual and try to fix it yourself, otherwise it will cost a ton of money at list $1,000.00
at 110 dollars an hour.
Thank you for your video I really enjoyed...EZ.
Good luck with that. I would only assume that the problem is the ABS after first eliminating all the usual issues with the rear brake - you haven't mentioned if you have done any of that. It would seem unusual for the ABS to have blocked the system as ABS only operates when triggered and until then the braking system is free flow. I would recommend that people buy the manual for any vehicle they buy, even if you don't do the work yourself - at least you will have some idea of what is happening.
Is that an Annan Railway station plaque behind you
No, if I'm right as to what you are referring to - that is a plate from an annual classic car rally. Skäl David
Great video, your knowledge is presented in such a concise way, keep it up!
Thanks, much appreciated.
Hello mate, i liked and subscribed.. well explained video and a good clear voice!.. could you tell me I have a citroen berlingo 04 1.9 diesel.. I've had to replace the brake fluid reservoir and the master cylinder.. I can't for the life of me bleed the brakes it draws fluid in then when you stop pumping the pedel and bleeding the fluid backs up and over spills the filler spout, hardly any fluid comes out the calipers yet a foamy mix of thousands of air bubbles and little fluid does if anything as its intermittent. Can you tell me if it's an open or closed system on the berlingo 600d as I can't find any information and if there is a trick to release trapped air.. I pray I hope I haven't damaged either the master cylinder or servo 🤷♀️ thanks.
I’m no expert on the systems used on all vehicles. Open or closed is unlikely to be the cause of your issue. I would suspect your issue might be with the servo. Good luck. Skäl. David
@@MotoMirius wow, thanks David for your speedy reply 👍 sorry I didn't think you'd know off the top of your head but wondered if you knew how I could source the information as that's where I was stuck.. is it also worth mentioning it has ABS and obviously air has entered the entire system? my suspicions are air is trapped and somehow needs to be bled.. maybe directly off the ABS unit or would i need to drive it and apply the brakes like you were explaining with the bike? to activate the pump?? Sorry about spell check on previous message, been corrected 😆✌
ABS pump is unlikely to introduce air bubbles, especially since it won't be active in normal bleeding. Depends if you are bleeding with the ignition on or off. Air could be entering from a cracked line, but it sounds more like the servo to me. Some systems will autobleed if the igniton is on because the servo will start pressurising the system, but I can see people mentioning manually bleeding their Belingos, which suggests that you have a blockage between master and slave cylinders, and one that is introducing air. That you've replaced the fluid reservoir is a point of failure. You'll need someone who is familiar with that system - it isn't a generic bleeding or ABS issue.
@@MotoMirius just watching other videos your supposed to bleed the master cylinder just as you do at each wheel (bleed nipple) with the brakes so that's where I've been going completely wrong for a start then proceed to bleed in the right sequence.. I also know ABS wont create or introduce bubbles what I'm trying to say is I would have definitely introduced a ton of air into it and is there some known rule of thumb when essentially flushing and refilling a system with ABS.. I'm not a complete novice, I'm a carpenter by trade but turn my hand to anything.. always have, but usually (by coincidence or jinx?) Never get the same mechanical issue twice 🤷♀️ so forever learning ✌
Adam Price there is no bleed nipple on the master cylinder. You can bleed air through the master cylinder but you will not get fluid back flow up through the master cylinder unless your master cylinder is faulty.
Can you bleed any lock brake on the rear
Yes, it makes no difference
Aren't you just pulling the brake lever just like we would normally do in our day to day riding?If so then wouldn't our day to day braking do the trick anyways.?
Yes - it is how the engineers who designed the brakes intended the system to work - a certain amount of air can be created in the system and will bleed in normal riding. If there is a lot of air then the system needs a bit of a helping hand to accelerate the process and you wouldn't want to ride with brakes that aren't fully functioning.
replacing a caliper on a 2008 impala. so i bleed all brakes or just the caliper i replace? and when would i used the scanner ABS module program? and
Unless you’ve changed the fluid recently you should refresh all the fluid in the system. Skäl. David
Thank you! You really helped me a lot. I’m working with an open system on a Ford Edge SUV. I’m going to do this after I replace the ABS module. Because that’s where the dealer wants to charge a way higher price to bleed the ABS module.
Instead I’ll engage the ABS by going in reverse and hitting the brakes hard a few times as you described, forcing the air into the system. Then change the brake fluid by bleeding the brakes until my fluid runs clear. You will visually see it by attaching a clear tube to the bleeder valve.
I’ll Do that a few times. Compare the color of my brake fluid to the new fluid and see if it’s necessary to replace it again. Saves money and the job is done right. They also wanted to charge a high cost to reprogram the ABS electronic module. An easy get around is to put the existing electronic module on the hydraulic side. Now No programming is necessary. Thanks again
Thanks and good luck with that. Skäl David
Thanks Man! Very helpful.
Glad it helped!
Thanks man, Greeaaat exlpanation on ABS. Gives me way more understanding of the systems
Happy to help! Skäl David
nice one, cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
Very helpful, thank you!
You are very welcome
Great explanation!
Cheers Mark. Much appreciated. Skäl. David
Thanks for your knowledge! I do appreciate you!
Thanks for watching! Skäl. David
Well done! Finally a proper explanation of bleeding ABS brake systems.
You helped me to understand the whole mystery regarding the brake systems with ABS pumps.
Thanks a lot for making this video.
(I will include a link to your video when making comments on youtube if you don't mind.)
Thanks and glad to be of help. Skäl David
Actually, he has some misinformation in this video. Read my comment to see what.
thanks for the advice, I have a 650 bandit 08 model with abs, and replaced pads and bleed the unit last year. it got from being slightly unfirm feeling to become a little firmer, however I do think that it might still be a bit on the soft side.. but I have read that bikes of this generation and older etc. often have a bit more spongy brake lever feel in comparison to brand new bikes that run slightly better gear on them. what is your take on this:)? I have no issues with stopping or brakes not applying enough force, but I don't have the ability to ride with just one finger on the lever like on a newer bike. It haven't really ever bothered me, but I would like to hear your insights on this:)
-cheers
Older brake systems often had rubber hoses which typically had a service replacement life of four years. If you have old rubber hoses then the walls can weaken and expand under pressure giving a softer feel - which is why upgrades to braided hoses were popular. That said with braided hoses, an older system will give just as hard a feel as a new system. Radial brakes and master cylinders can give a more powerful braking effect for less effort (which is what you describe about one finger) but they aren't firmer because they run the same hoses and fluid. Modern electronics systems typically act to reduce braking effect - its commonly accepted that in an emergency stop ABS stops slower than an experienced rider without ABS. I was out on the KTM today doing stoppies and wondering why it was difficult, then I switched it into supermoto mode which reduces the ABS effect and nearly went over the handlebars because the front brake grabbed so hard for less effort.
@@MotoMirius I reckon that I should consider replacing and upgading my hoses next then:P I do indeed have rubber hoses, and I have suspected them to have some effect on the brake feel. Thanks for the reply, much appreciated:)
I forgot to add that since you felt the system get firmer you likely had or have air in the system. This is a downside of ABS as the extra pipe work routing makes it easier to have trapped air which is hard to get out.
@@MotoMirius yeah, either that or ancient fluids:P but it's never been as bad as a system full of air, like a mate of mine's was, his was really bad. this is as you say most likely suffering from tired hoses of the rubber kind:)
@@mortenbakke2810 tired hoses don't get firmer - that tends to be air. Which isn't to say that hoses aren't an issue, but you may have both adding to the picture.
Hi David, I know you're talking about bikes, but would you be so kind to give me your advice on car brakes? (I believe when it comes to ABS, the ABS pump does the same job.)
My question is: Would it be easier to bleed car brakes when ABS fuses (for ABS and ABS relay) have been removed?
Note: On my old car without ABS I was able to bleed the brakes much easier, now on the new car I can hardly press/pump the brake pedal ( it goes, but very hard).
Depends how new the car is and how much the electronics are involved - traction control etc. With older ABS systems the pump only kicks in as it detects the wheel starting to skid - so the ABS doesn't activate when stationary - hence the need to activate the ABS pump if you have air trapped inside it. If you have an open system, no fluid remains within the pump so there is no need to remove fuses, If you have a closed system there will be a small amount of fluid trapped within the pump but not enough to make any difference given that you will almost never replace every trace of the old fluid - so there is no need to remove fuses.
If you can't press the brake pedal and you've got a bleeder valve open then you may have a pump in the system which isn't activated when the ignition is off. You would need specific advice based on the make and model of car - normally there will be a forum which specialises in your car and you will find the question has already been asked there many times. Good luck! Skäl David
@@MotoMirius MANY THANKS DAVID.
Some people say things like: ''Disabling the ABS unit will allow fluid to flow through unrestricted for a better flow when bleeding air outta the system.'' ''Disabling ABS is just to make sure flow is unrestricted, no matter how hard ya try pushing pedal through the floor the ABS will only let the brakes engage so much.''
From your video I understood that unless I run the ABS pump with special device or just by braking hard I will not get the old brake fluid moving through ABS unit (on closed system).
1. So is there any chance that by removing the fuses you will allow ''better - not total'' flow through ABS unit and therefore the brake pedal will get softer (or it's just a myth) and you always need to operate the pump on closed system?
2. Master cylinder / brake bleeding - using vacuum brake bleeding kit (a gun).
Is it good idea to operate the master cylinder at the end (by pressing the brake pedal) after all 4 wheels were bled by gun or it's unnecessary as the new brake fluid passed through it completely when sucked from each bleeder valve?
P.S.: I looked around, believe me (forums).
P.S.: I'm still able to bleed the brakes, but it's hard work. :-) My car is only 4 years old.
Have a nice one David.
@@peterx7623 the ABS unit only runs when activated. Unless you are driving whilst bleeding the brakes it won't activate. Taking the fuse out will not make any difference. Open or closed makes no difference to bleeding. I don't see the logic behind the suggestion.
If you have a brake booster in the system that can have an impact - try using the brakes when the ignition is off and it can be very hard to press on the brakes.
If you've bled the brakes, operating the master cylinder won't have much effect.
@@MotoMirius Alright, no problem, but you see that's the kind of answers you find on forums. :-0
I guess I'll have to get in touch with dealer again (this time different branch) and try to find answers there. In the service manual I found only bleeding sequence (a picture only) and nothing about changing ABS unit.
P.S.: All cars have the brake booster even the old ones (if ofcourse you don't go back more than 93 years before a brake booster was invented). :-) Anyway, thanks DAVID. Have a safe ride.
@@peterx7623 I've owned lots of cars without brake boosters but probably true that all modern ones have, along with power steering etc. I suspect the problem you are having is that you are expecting a different answer. The problem with remote diagnosis is that the problem is always the thing that hasn't been mentioned but would be obvious once you get hands on. Good luck with the dealer.
Outstanding!
Thank you kindly!
Very good. thank you.
Thank you too!
Is the ktm duke 125/390 open circuit ABS brakes ?
Since the repair manual includes nothing about the ABS and just uses a pressure bleeder for the brakes, I would assume it’s open circuit. Skäl. David
Nice job David, well explained, and interesting to watch. Not bled any ABS brakes on a bike yet, done a few car ones, and they all seemed ok after I had fiddled :)
Cheers Chris. I always had a bit of a block on them but as you say, nothing to be afraid of 😀. Skäl
Cheers mate. Very informative
Thanks Richard, much appreciated. Skäl. David
only video out there that actually knows what his talking about im know mechanic but know how to service my bikes iv spoken to a number of mechanics at bike shops were we've almost got into a fall blown row because im telling them i cant bleed them because im only pergine the front circuit of air and not the fall system eg abs pump so still got a spongy lever there answer is your talking nonsense just bleed in conventional way looking at me like im an idiot . i know i should of took to main dealer which it was booked in for tuesday morning the day after the lock down anyway good video proves to me i wasn't talking nonsense
Thanks. Some people over think it, some dealers and mechanics deliberately spread misinformation to scare people out of doing jobs that they could easily do themselves. Skäl David
Great video
Thank you Robert. Much appreciated. Skäl. David
Great video!!
Skäl Raimo
Slamming on your brakes to activate the ABS system does not work. The reason should be obvious. When you do that, ABS will pulsate but it will not move brake fluid along the brake lines. With the bleeders closed, brake fluid can't move through the brake lines. To bleed brakes, including the ABS system, the bleeder screws must be open so fluid can move through the brake lines. When the bleeders are closed, brake fluid temporarily moves slightly but returns when braking is released. Or, to put it another way, if the bleeders are closed, the brake fluid has no place to go. Also, I'm skeptical of your claim that most ABS systems are open. My Triumph Rocket III Touring, for example has a closed ABS system. To bleed the ABS system, ABS must be cycled using software. The same is true for my SUV and my truck. So I suspect that more bikes than you suggest have closed systems. That's one reason why DealerTool, TuneEcu, etc., are so popular. I'm guessing that most Triumphs have closed ABS systems because there are so many YT videos showing software being used to cycle the ABS pump to bleed ABS. My factory service manual explicitly stated that software must be used to bleed the ABS system. I'm suspect that most motorcycle ABS systems are fairly universal made by just a few companies. I can't say for sure that you are incorrect in your claim without researching many different motorcycles but I think more motorcycles ABS systems are closed than you suggest.
If Triumph are using a closed system, you can expect to find it on all their bikes, they will use common components and designs to save stocking costs and increase design efficiency - it doesn't give you any data on what other manufacturers are using. Yes, you can use the software tools to run the ABS, and of course that is the ideal situation, but most riders don't have access to them.
Great video. Subbed. Thanks
Thanks Davide, always much appreciated. Skäl. David
Manufacturers complicate simple systems with TECHNOLOGY!!! That should be said with huge echo effect on the last word. Yes the god called TECHNOLOGY that has ruined the auto industry is now working to screw your motorbike too. I have a GSX650F (Bandit really) and the ABS pump failed on it and after much misdiagnoses and expensive labor I realized that. So just before I left the dealership with my rear brakes useless and wondering why I would pay $2000 for a new ABS pump for a bike I payed $4500 for, the service manager said I could fix it cheap. I was all elephant ears. He explained that if you seal off the ABS pump and run the hoses from the master cylinders to the calipers which of course bypasses that stupid thing...then Bob's your uncle and tech can take a freakin' hike. And that's what I did and I'm loving it!!! Who needs ABS on a bike??? I've had plenty before and never needed it. It's purpose is so that the steering doesn't lock when hammering the brakes. That works fine on a car but bikes are different and I won't go into it. But balance of the bike and kinetics are part of it. What nonsense and I'm sure there's lots who disagree with and that's fine. But if I get a car I will never get one with a glass mat battery (AGM) because of the price and the b.s. you go through when replacing it. And you can ruin the entire computer system if you're not careful with new cars. And that applies to a long list of replacing simple things made complex for simple systems that have been made complex. It's getting crazy out there and it's increasing by the minute.
Unfortunately with modern bikes the ABS unit is integrated into many of the riding modes so eliminating it isn't going to be that easy because you will have the same electronics and ECU issues. All safety driven and yes, it will not get better.
I got half way through and realized he was talking about motorcycles :(
It applies to most ABS systems regardless of what they are fitted to.
Hey Dave good to see ya brother 👍✌💗
Skäl Springy. What a lovely day isn’t it? Expecting to see some gardening videos 😀👍
Moto Mirius yep you got me !!
MUSIC 🎶 AT THE START AND END TOO LOUD 🔊
Thanks. This is something I’ve improved on later videos but not something I can correct on this one 👍
I know how to do it but dealers don't charge much for a complete break fluid flush with an ABS system. PLEASE get rid of your intro and ending music, it is very LOUD and annoying! ;-)
Thanks. It is very loud and annoying but sadly UA-cam don’t allow that sort of editing. Skäl. David
❤
There's a gun on the shelf
There is indeed 😀
Great info and good English accent as opposed to Yanks!
Cheers for that Paul. Skäl. David
Ford F150 abs SUCKS!!
ABS plus car/truck is always going to be a pain
Show how to Do IT !! ALOT OF TALK NOTHING SUBSTANTIAL !
Feel free to check out my brake bleeding videos if you need help with brake bleeding. The point of this video is that ABS is no different. As such there is nothing to show.
U are too slow ...get to the point
I recommend increasing the playback speed if videos are going too slowly for your own taste - you can always stop and slow it down again for the information you need.
The Autel Maxicheck Pro will not work with most Motorcycles, it is intended for cars