Sinking/Spongy Brake Pedal -With ABS SYSTEM?? Nothing Works? Watch Fixed!
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Sinking/Spongy Brake Pedal???? With ABS SYSTEM!!...Watch this before you buy a master cylinder!!...It does happen...Its Not always a Master Cylinder Issue! ...Must Watch!
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NOTE: I did not have to DO ANY BRAKE BLEEDING! ....I just hooked everything up and started
pumping....engine, running, engine ,off...several times and the pedal
came right up! Some say take it to the dealer and spend $100's of
dollars...I say ...I never had to do that. That's all I did. Most of the
time this works. Then after you do this, then maybe try to bleed the
brakes per wheel...to make sure all the air bubbles are gone ;)
TVWXMAN32 I am having the same problem after changing rotors and pads the front right caliper is not working I checked the master cylinder and is working properly but I loose one by one of the brake lines on the abs module and my right front is not working no brake fluid coming out 2007 vw Jetta 2.5
Internal failure possible. Was it doing the same thing before the new parts?
I didn't notice that cuz I bought the car and had no brakes they were shot almost metal to metal but the thing is that the master cylinder even when the car is off the brake pedal goes down. You think that if the master cylinder does not have enough pressure and that's why does not push brake fluid to the right caliper? Hey thank you for responding
Yes. But If your caliper has a rubber flex line...take it off and see if
it stopped up. I've had them do that before making me think it was a
bad wheel cylinder/caliper. If its seems ok, then check the master cylinder
next. Cheaper to start small and work your way up.
But....its sounding like a ABS pump Issue ;(
Nathan, you confirmed my suspicions. I'm working on a 2001 Silverado pedal goes to the floor. Replaced the rt front leaking brake hose both master to ABS unit leaking brake lines, bleed the system three different ways. Still no pedal. Your experience compliments mine. Never had a issue with ABS controllers. TILL NOW.
Nice!!! Good work!
Hey TVWXMAN32, Dr Motor here. I wanted to thank you for your information. I did find a used unit in PA, had it shipped to me. Installed it yesterday, did a little bleeding all is good! You were right on point!Thank you my brother!
Glad it worked!!
I am a professional mechanic with 33 years on the job . I ran into the same problem today on a 99 f150 . After putting 4 master cylinders on it and going thru half a gallon of fluid . I arrived at the same conclusion . I have seen over 100 bad abs units before , but this problem is a first for me . I am glad that it is a common ford problem . Now I just have to find another unit for my customer . Thanks for the video - that truck was kicking my butt .
Glad you found it. Sometimes, its right in our face...lol
Thank you very, very, much! Your fix worked perfect. Now how do I put back all the hair I pulled out? GREAT VIDEO!!!!
Well, if you weren't balding in the first place, wait until your hair grows back, otherwise you're out of luck and bald for life! LOL! Just teasing!
@@armoricain lol
😅🤣😂
Never mind, losing hair is better than losing brake?
Super glue
Thanks for the video! I've been a professional for over 40 years, I've never replaced a brake pump! It makes perfect sense. That will be my next move!
Nice! Let us know how it goes!
I’m have the same soft pedal issue with my dodge. Changed the brake pads in the front because they were bad then it snow ball effect started. Changed the ritors, calipers, flex hoses and master brake cylinder. Still having the soft pedal issue. Makes sense that it’s the ABS module. Thanks for the video!!
Excellent vide, sir. We've been having the same issue on a early 90's Honda Accord. Never thought to look at the ABS pump but tried just about everything else. Good tip about how to check the master cylinder too. Thanks for taking time to make the video! Much appreciated.
1993 Isuzu Trooper. This is exactly my issue. Brake pedal goes almost to the floor before firmly engaging. Had master cylinder replaced twice (one leaked), had brake booster replaced twice (one aftermarket leaked on arrival). The mechanic said he did not know what the problem was, so after $1000 limped home with the same problem. After viewing your video, it appears that I might have the ABS problem. I get in the car and the brake pedal feels normal, and only slightly goes down. Turn on the engine and immediately the pedal goes almost to the floor before engaging. Also, while driving, I will pump the brakes a little before stopping, and I hear a hissing sound. I need a better brake mechanic. Thanks for the video. Thumbs up!
Nice!!
I have a severe sinking brake pedal with drastically reduced stopping power on a 2005 GMC Sierra I recently purchased. Given past ABS WSS and Modulator problems, I pulled the ABS fuse and tried braking again. PERFECT BRAKING!!! So, disabling ABS by pulling the fuse is a major troubleshooting step. ABS modulators are very expensive and so are the controllers. I've had ABS disabled on my 1995 S10 for over 100,000 miles. The ABS modulator would have cost half the value of the truck! The S10 was having momentary total loss of braking, which theoretically should not happen. So much for theory.
Sometime, I'll try the ABS fuse and see what happens.
Same here, with a 1997 Chevrolet K2500. Total loss of braking function thanks to the ABS, with the pedal going all the way to the floor. I pulled the ABS fuse, and no more problems. GM ABS systems are extremely dangerous.
@@ttiwkram I got a 3500 dually with the same problem , I will try it today, one night I came to a red light and the fan belt broke and my brakes has hydro boost that gets its boost from the power steering pump instead of vacuum , i couldn't stop at all , GM brakes suck.
Just had the same sinking break pedal issue. Lost all breaks pulling into drive way. Pulled the ABS fuze in engine bay. Works perfectly fine now. All breaks returned to normal. 99 chevy blazer 4x4
My 1995 is giving me problems
I am thrilled that you solved the mystery. It's on one I am facing on the abs light along with brake light staying on even when I replaced the left front wheel sensor. I erased all the codes with scanner, turned engine on and lights went out. But later I drove off and in 5 secs both lights came on. Initial scan at a transmission shop found trouble with both, wheel sensor and abs pump failure. Now I will re-scan for abs codes, but I am aware the abs pump will need replacement.
The odd thing You mentioned was, that after throwing the (junkyard) abs pump, you didn't bother to bleed the brakes? Its a rule of thumb, when Ever, a brake line is opened, it needs to be bled, bcuz air gets in. I fear soon you'll be right back underneath. Another amazing thing is, what are the chances of getting a used abs unit with identical part number! And then for $40? Lol.. Down here the junkyard wants $100+ .. smh.
Man thank you for this video I have have been buying parts , busting knuckles and cursing , I'm going to pick up one ... It seems I have the same issues ... Wish me luck
How was it?
Thanks for the video! Same thing is happening to my 06 Ram 1500. Just replaced the MC and still same result and now I know its got to be the abs.
Good catch!!!
You are a legend for taking the time and effort to make this video 😎.
I did not know the could go bad like that, I used to have a 1999 Discovery which did the same thing and never found out what the problem was!
Nice
7777877lllllllllll99
I have a chevy 92 c1500...same issue... except for booster everything is new and bled to the hill and back...it only has rwal brakes but im going to try and bypass the system and see if it fixes the problem...if so you my friend have saved the day. Logically this makes sense in my situation since i have addressed everything except this unit... Thank you
Word!
Got me too! I guess I should have done a vid on this deal a few years ago...got a new one off ebay, 425. Bled brakes, BEST BRAKES AND ABS IN THE WORLD!!!!!
Nice~!
I've been through several brakes and rotors and drums on my bronco and it didnt help. I've put new cylinders and calipers on it, I put 2 different boosters on and 3 master cylinders with the last one being a straight up junkyard unit and nothing changed. The abs unit has to be the issue, I've been fighting and pondering on this issue for the 7 years I've owned this truck and its relieving to see a video that confirms my theory
Very interesting i always heard abs wont do that only master or leak. I have seen this issue on many vehicles and i had never seen the root cause
Internal leak in the ABS unit loosing pressure I guess.
@@FixingWithPassion that would make sense but school and many other people always said master will b the root cause of soft pedal because abs doesnt control that but wow thats great to know
Wow. I hope this is the answer to my brake problem. I'll try that. Thanks for the video.
Let us know!
I noticed my Kia brake pedal had gotten spongy and sank to the full under pressure. New master cylinder did nothing to help. Had brakes bled, no leaks, didn't pull or anything, just mushy.
Ran across a forum post suggesting to find a sandy road, drive about 25-30 mph, and slam the brakes on several times to activate the ABS and see if that helped. So I did.
Lo and behold, after 8-10 panic brakings, the mush and sink went away completely. Apparently the valves in the ABS module can get hung up and/or cross bleed and cause mushy brake pedals. So give this a try first thing and maybe avoid wasted repair work.
Yes, I've read post that sometimes that will help to remedy the issue. My luck is never that successful. But always worth a try!
@Daniel Williamson Yes, a 2012. It lasted about 6 weeks or so and got a bit mushy again, so I drove up to a grass field and slammed on the brakes a few times again and back to working fine. Eventually that may not restore it; time for replacement at that point, but until then...?
@@barry7413 didn't work for me
So it's not trapped air in them that can cause this as much as maybe just stuck / cross bleeding valves that are responsible? Thanks! I'm trying to understand how it works.
Thanks TVWXman32 ... This is exactly the problem I'm having and will definately look at replacing the ABS Control Module ...
Cool!
I have same exact problem and thanks to you kind sir I know what I have to do now..
Comments like this makes youtube worth my time!~ Let us know if you fix it!~!~
Same thing happened to me, 2003 e450 super duty, soft spongy brakes, especially at a stop light they hit the floor, brakes sounded like brake pad grinding when coming to a stop at slow speeds, replaced hydro booster, master cyl, pads, rotors, calipers, bled the brakes.... still doing the same thing . . . in the end, it was the ABS module which had triggered no ABS warning light. I watched several videos first which all said master cylinder causes soft brakes...but so will the ABS :) Thank you and good look!
Thanks! Glad you figured it out!!
Yes I had the same problem with a 2008 ranger . just about pulled my hair out. Got a used abs pump and it was bad also. Got a replacement and worked fine. What a pita.
But hey, you got it fixed!~
would it be air in the abs pump somehow? Factory or dealer have special ways or equipment to do abs bleed.
Yes it can be air in the ABS assembly but to flush all the rust, dirt, crud and especially copper in solution coming from the inside of the brake lines. This copper acts to corrode parts in the ABS actuating pistons and their sleeves and brake caliper/slave pistons and sleeves. The bottom line is that all replaceable fluids in the car/truck need to be replaced to prevent this corrosion as ongoing scheduled maintenance. And the reason I am saying this is because whether it is brake fluid, engine coolant, engine oil, transmission fluid, or rear end pumpkin , they all contain special additives that protect metal and rubber parts. Seal Softeners, Corrosion Inhibitors, PH stabilizers, and in the case of coolant the special additive that prevents cavitation and stripping of small chunks of metal from the coolant passages. These additives DEPLETE after one year. I know some carmakers say that it has lifetime brake fluid. IMHO this is their Marketing Department getting in the way of good engineering practice. So that they can sell longer intervals for maintenance and "lower costs" at the time of new sale. This simply does not make sense given the fact that literally, millions of calipers and brake pulse units (HCU's) have to be replaced every year. You will need to full flush it and use a scan tool and procedure to operate the twelve ABS solenoids. I hope this helps someone!
Same thing to mine...I replaced the booster and master cylinder but it didn't work...then I thought it may be d abs modulator...and thanks to your video,now I'm sure its d abs module..
This saved my life as well did EVERYTHING but the abs now after replacing the abs the pedal is spot on
Having this issue now bout to test the abs pump and if that is what it is changing it out. Thus video has helped. Thank you sir
I'm having this very exact problem with my 98 mustang gt. I've checked the lines top to bottom and there's no leaks, the abs light comes on and goes off as soon as i start the car and yet i still have this issue. I reached the same conclusion as you did and figured it has to be my abs module that's the problem, so in a few I'm going to go buy a used one and see if that fixes the issue that I'm having.
Wow, excellent video. Great feeling to solve. I'm stumped with a problem like this right now on a MINI Cooper, that popped up immediately after doing the pads/rotors and repairing a displaced boot on the RR caliper. The pedal is now just like the video - even with bleeding all brakes multiple times using both pressure bleeder and two-man method, AND bleeding the ABS module using dealer technician software. It makes no difference. Pedal can be made stiff when car is off but is soft and sinks almost to the floor when running. Could doing that brake work cause master cylinder or ABS module to break?? It can't be possibly be air in the line, we bled so many times; we used 4-5 bottles. Anyone have any ideas??
ABS module can go bad anytime. Just a small piece of dirt can mass it up inside. ABS module can fail without any warning causing a sinking pedal. But make sure all air is gone in the lines. That's all you can do at this point.
My girlfriends car has the exact same problem its a cooper r50 1.6 it did have the abs light on and a slack pedal but I replaced the abs module and the abs light is gone after a short drive but still having a slack brake pedal when the car is running and bled numerous of times the pads and discs are top notch and I dont see any leak whatso ever. The fluid level never dropped since. But might concider replacing the master cylinder and hope for the best.
Maybe the mini cooper has to be auto bleed through the software. Gm vehicles are that way
Mod MINI hey man I’m just wondering if you ever solved this issue... I got it.. on a r50 that I’ve just put an r53 engine in and replaced callipers master cylinder, servo, new abs unit, I’ve just paid for the dealership software and a laptop and a set of Ecu’s from a donor car, only 200 for the lot but still, I’m running out of options, heard it’s abs airlock surely working the abs while bleeding the system will get the air out the system?
Hope you see this, you know your shit 😀
Taylor Clark my 2003 silverado is doing a similar thing (spongy) petal I am just going to bypass the abs altogether i will put a manual proportioning valve in. I dont need abs I learned to drive without it years ago and never use it anyway
Bleeding brakes for a couple of days now. Thanks for the video. will check out ABS 😅
Good move!!
Your video totally confirmed my suspicion that my abs module was bad!Thanks so much for the help!!!
Right On!
All I have to say is great video did all the steps you said and it was 100% abs pump 45bucks later from my local salvage yard different pump installed brakes work great thank you
That's great!~~Glad it worked.
This video gives me new hope on my issue😊
Nice!!!
I've been punching myself in the head for the last 5 days trying to figure out why my brakes won't harden up, I didn't think I had a bad ABS I just put a new master cylinder in it and it looks like now I'll be putting a new ABS in it thank you. .......11/19/2018-Update,my rear calipers were on the wrong side.they couldnt properly bleed cause the bleeder screw wasnt at the highest point so air was traped that could never get out,unless flipped.flipdem,bledem,boom,brakes!!!
Yea....so many stories of A bad ABS unit. Let us know if you fix it!~~~
@@FixingWithPassion my rear calipers were universal, and on the wrong side.the bleeder screw was not at the highest point,thus trapping air.took them off,swopped'em around and that fixed it.
Thanks for the advise!! I m gonna try that because I changed my rear calipers and I had the same problem!
I'm having the same issues with my 2000 Nissan primera. I change master cylinder bleed out the line but the brake system keep failing but thanks to your video.... thanks again
O my!!
I'm in Jamaica so its gonna be really hard to get this abs pump module. I'm hearing a little hissing when i press the brake pedal. U think i should check the booster before i go the abs module. Oh i forgot my abs light is on and not come off too
Thanks mate for taking the trouble to post this I have same problem with daughters citroen c2. Wish I'd seen this before buying new master cylinder. Big cheers from UK.
Never been inside of that auto. Some say its nice...I don't know. You like that auto?
@@FixingWithPassion, It's a little French 1.4 diesel, great engines 65 MPG, pretty much bullet proof but lots of niggling little jobs for the home DIY guy. Still a man needs a hobby or two. All the best Nathan from Rugby GB. PS. Hopefully my French Teves abs unit doesn't need any fancy programing or software, just a good talking to I hope. Think I'll get a scraper and strip it, find out what makes it tick. Mitch.
My Ford Econoline did the same thing. I had to replace my abs module after 3 Master cylinders. The last master is cylinder I bought from the dealer. .
What year and model is your econoline ? Mine did this today ! Tried breaking while about to leave for a job and the breaks wouldn’t work I had to hit the emergency break and damn near slam my foot all the way to the ground
I have the same problem brake pedal going to the floor great video
O...ABS unit time ;(
Great video. I too am now experiencing this. I have a question about your situation… With mine, I found that pumping the pedal 2-3 times gets my brake pressure back. I’m sure this is because it is evacuating air in the lines. Did you experience this as well?
Thanks
Yes! Same thing happens when there is a bad ABS pump. Forget abut tearing it apart and fixing it! To complicated. Easier just to get a used one. That's what I did and and have 100% happy with the fix!
Nathan Rohrbough -- Ok, cool. This just started yesterday so I'm going to start with leak checking, MC, and then probably jump right to the ABS pump.
Btw, 1992 ford E-350 😲... and thanks for the quick reply. I'll update my comment when problem is solved.
Keep us updated! I'm sure someone else will need your fix!~
This might be the problem in my sport trac.. uuugh.... Thanks for the video. I even used a scan tool to get the air out, bled the lines a couple times and nothing. I see no leaks either on or off....
Right on man!!
I've a 96 super cargo extended van. Last week the ABS like csnein briefly. Since then it periodically has a spongy/sinking break pedal. No doubt, this is the problem.
O my!!~~~
I’m in the same boat! Replaced everything! Bled the brakes 10 times! 10 quarts later still soft brakes!
O my!!
Great video!! Have the same problem on my 2007 Expedition. Put on all new rotors and pads, and bled the system. Worked for a few days and then the pedal started sinking to the floor again and the ABS light came on. I will give the ABS pump a try. Thanks!!
Let us know if it fixed it!
Had this problem on an 08 fusion found an area where the abs could be activated, hard stop 6-8 times, had a good pedal after that, if the abs doesn't get used often the valves inside can stick some high quality scanners can activate the valves also and that can free them up.
Did it start working after that because there was air trapped inside the ABS unit, and then you were able to bleed it out afterwards once the valves were unstuck? I'm still trying to understand what the purpose of those valves do. If they're not working, does that trap air in there which is what causes the sinking pedal symptoms? Thanks.
@@steveandrews8301 The valves are controlled by electrical solenoids, when the control module sees a wheel stops turning it momentarily releases pressure for that wheel, if one or more of the valves are out of position then you can get a low pedal. a spongy pedal that gets better as you pump the brakes is usually due to air in the system.
I changed master cylinder and aired out the brakes. A little better but not fully recovered. I might try this. It's on my Ford fiesta 2010
Im having same issue. I replaced my master 2 times still nothing. Hopefully this works
Lie us know!!! if it works!
The brake is not airy when the vehicle is at rest but super spongy when it's running. Despite almost a full column of airy brake, it actually works super well and the grip sets in just right in the middle. It seems to me that this does not match with the description of this video. I wonder if it is the master cylinder issue, or something else, but what can it be?
Fixed at end of video/"
@@FixingWithPassion @SinsBird Thanks for the reply, but my experience tells me that this is out of the ordinary. The pedal sinks all the way down when the vehicle is crusing without any resistance at all, however, it actually works super well and the brakes will set in just right in the middle, the pedal does work extremely wel, except that it just floats in the "air". None of the vids is able to explain something close to this, I'm rather puzzled.
Same problem on 2012 Ford Focus, replaced all the parts other than ABS guess thats next
@@ColinBrazier Let us know if it works!!
I have the same problem on my Dakota. I have replaced everything! I guess a new ABS Module is next. Thank you. V
O man! Well, let us know if it fixed the issue!
It is good to hear from you. I'm currently on Ebay because a new or rebuilt Module is not available.
the ABS controls only the rear Drum Brakes. Thank's for the Info. Ted.
This happened me after I got my clutch replaced. I have an inspection coming up so was waiting to do the brake cylinder if it passed. I'll try this if a brake bleed don't work. It's spongy and sometimes goes to the floor with little braking ability.
and????
@@iversonjcameron passed everything. The problem went away but I've other issues. I've bought a new car
Was it necessary to replace the module or should it had been bled?
Given that I've already replaced everything else, hopefully this will take care of it.
Let us know!!
Air in the abs can be a real pain in the butt. If this came up after the system was opened/bled but was fine before, you need to start with a bi-directional scan tool to run the abs pump before firing the parts cannon, especially if you tried to bleed it while the car was running, you probably sucked air into the abs.
When you run a auto bleed the abs pump will run for all 4 wheels for some cars, you can just top off the res and open all the bleeders and let it do it's thing, but most cars the solenoid valves will open on the left or right side of the car, then run the pump on the opposite side, those systems can be a pain, the instructions your scan tool will give you will tell you to bleed the calipers like you would normaly, but don't, what ever side the pump doesn't make a bunch of noise on just hold the pedal down, the solenoid valves will open/shut a bunch, then bleed after the scan tool has run the auto bleed, you might have to do it a few times.
Word! Still working today still!
This is becoming a common problem as our Fords age. I would like to know which valve in the unit is sticking.
Right!!
I've had air in my ABS system which couldn't be bleed out without the appropriate scanner. That caused a soft pedal. Scanners were always a problem to get hold of until today, $200 US dollars will get you a decent scanner on Amazon.
My ABS light has been on due to the ABS line being broke. But my passenger caliper went bad and I’ve been experiencing this problem. When I bleed the lines I get no air out of the lines... so hope this fixes my problem
Great video. I had the same issue. I wish i would have found it before i figured it out.
Me too!
That's great! Thank you for making this vid. My 2001 f150 has a sinking pedal. It's not as bad as yours was but it sinks at stoplights, drive thrus etc.. It doesn't always do it right away either. Which leads me to believe my abs pump is bad too. If it was a a MC, it would happen all the time. That's my experience with a bypassing MC anyways. But this is a good vid for us do it your selfers with fords of this era.
So did you not have to bleed the new pump at all? Does the computer take care of it or something? How much would it be for a new pump do you think? If it's too much I'll do what you did and get one at the wrecker I guess..
Anyways thank you again for your time making this video!
You're awesome
Thanks!
Dislikes....lol....Because most thumbs downs, are people who are still living there parents basement and have no life + trolls.
Did you need to bleed the abs pump later?
That's the cool thing, I did not have to. I was going to bleed the brakes etc but 2 pumps and I had a full pedal. Crazy luck I guess.
So weird huh, you'd think it would need to be bled but if it works it works.
When getting the abs system rebuilt do you get the pump rebuilt or the module (black box) rebuilt ?
Need advice ! Have a 2003 ford taurus. New Master cylinder, New front calipers.new front brake lines, New rear wheel cylinders drums and shoes.have probably forced 2 gallons of dot 3 brake fluid through the system with a pressure bleeder. Replaced the abs module with 3 different used ones , pressure bleeding it each time and activating the abs pump with an autel maxi check scanner. Still have no brakes. Please any ideas?
I have the same problem in my 1998 F150, haven't done anything yet to try and fix it... no lights come on in the dash... should I replace the abs pump first or try the master cyl? What would you do first? If I have to replace both it doesn't matter, I just want it fixed!
Just curious why you didn’t try a scan tool ABS auto bleed first, instead of replacing the whole thing? I know mine is all good as well and I have the same problem, pedal to the floor. The guys are saying to get an Autel Maxi Pro scanner from Amazon for $200 and try it. Worked for a guy here on UA-cam in his 2008 GMC 1500 truck. Thoughts?
Because there is a difference...If the system has never been open and one day it just quits working.... why would you have to bleed it? Its failed and the only thing that will fix it is to replace it. That's like trying to fix a master cylinder that has gone bad by bleeding it, when it has never been worked on. Now if it had been opened or worked on, then that's different, perhaps air has gotten into it. Seen this for 35 years. Rarely does that ever work, only to have the pedal to start sinking shortly again. Just Saying.
I have the same problem in my 2006 Ridgeline. I bought a new ABS module too. Then I was told I would have to reprogram it on my cars computer. Took the wind right out of my sails. Have you ever heard of this?
glad to find your video have a custom expedition that for weeks had no brakes was going to put for sale sign in it but after replacing abs I have brakes again thank you
Good! Glad it worked!!
I have a question if I may, I have a 1997 Toyota starlet ep91
I have replaced my master cylinder, brake booster, pads, and shoes. I have a firm brake pedal when car is off, but when car is on, the pedal goes to the floor.
I have bled each brake except for the rear brake on drivers side, but it does engage except for when car is is turns on.
Any help would be wonderful
thank you
i dont think a bad abs system would cause a low brake pedal , maybe air trapped somewhere
Pull abs pump feed and abs valve feed and brake will works like brand new again.
never give up : )
Whaaaaale i had the same symptoms only my problem was bleeders were on the bottom instead of top, air gets trapped since it rises. Hope this helps someone like me spending hours on a s simple fix 🤣
Nice!
Your used pump have fluid in it? Did you need to actuate the valve unit to get the air out or did just pumping it work? Did you have to bleed the brakes again if you did.
It just starting working. I was worried about that....but never had to bleed anything ;)
Great vedeo mate 👍 on my suburban I'm thinking a need do exactly the same 🤔 because after a master cylinder still the same! The brake pedal going all way down! Probably i need replaced a ABS pump 🤔 before this happens i fills when I press the brake pedal the first wheel brakes it's a rear wheel and not correct something is strange 🤔 after see your vedeo I'm thinking about replacing a ABS pump!! Cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 👍
I had the same problem with my 2000 explorer! Simple way to find out if it is something with the ABS system: PULL THE ABS FUSE! I pulled the fuse and the brakes work fine! In fact, I am keeping the fuse out and not repairing the ABS system! The ABS light is on, BUT I don't care!
Yeah that works for some. I guess it depends on what is actually wrong internally with the ABS module.
Tanks am going to try it
Great!
So,you didn’t have to bleed or did anything to the new ABS pump at all,after the installation ? I have a 2014 Tundra with a sinking pedal,I don’t know whether it’s a master cylinder or the ABS pump yet. Hopefully,it’s a master cylinder. But if it’s the ABS pump,Hope I don’t need to do anything to it. Thanks for your video
Hello! Got the same problem on a Nissan pickup...master cylinder been replaced by a mechanic, now another one is advising me to do it again because apparently I bought a cheap cylinder....pedals sinks and car barely stops...abs pump was tested with a tested and no faults came back...it must be the pump, cannot think of anything else
Did you bleed the abs pump for air
Lucky you
Lucky , ...you.
Have thus same issue at work with a hinda odyssey 08. Found a leak from the booster so we started there. No fix. So we then changed out the master. Gravity bleed. The bleed from calipers. Still no fix. Guess ill be looking into the abs 1st thing in the morning.
Let us know if you fix it!
@@FixingWithPassion no fix. Did the bleed on the abs. And no change. Did get some air out of the front calipers.
@@slimhonda6352 Did it end up being a bad ABS, then? Thanks.
@steveandrews8301 this was so long ago I don't remember.
This problem seems very common on the other side of the Atlantic too.
My daughter has a C2 with ATE ABS. Exactly the same issue. I would love to know exactly which item is failing.
Anyone out there please?
Hello..my nissan van has the same issue..but that say it doesn't have ABS so its the master cylinder must fix..
Thanks a lot
Usually air in the abs unit. Have to drive on a wet surface and jam on the brakes to activate the ABS system.
Hummm never got that to work for me.
@@FixingWithPassion same here
I had the same exact problem........out of the blue, 2012 Ford Edge with spongy brakes that nearly touched the floor.. MY SOLUTION: Went to my Mechanic, even drove it in reverse 20mph and "grenaded' the brake pedal to 'reset' the ABS. Put in a new master cylinder..new brake pads in rear.....same problem...........BUT THEN changed the right rear 'suspect' bad caliper and brakes are even better than new.............!!!
Outstanding.
I have the same issue but i have an abs light so maybe i missed something.
Hummm
How did you take that loose without bleeding the system again I have no idea you going to get air in there I don't know I could be totally wrong. My ABS light is on I bled the whole system no spongy pedal not even from the get-go have to bleed it too. You need to scan tool so it'll open up the solenoid valves inside of the ABS pump so you can bleed it what I understand .I'm in a 02 Ford Lightning good video I just think there's a little more to it
Some times you get lucky and don't push air in the line when changing them....sometimes you do. I've been pretty lucky. But when there's air in the system then bleeding is a must.
My issue is it's hard as rock when SUV is off I start it and soft peddle and replace master cylinder and new pads and bleed all wheel wounder if it's still abs?
U have to get the right OBD reader that will do automatic abs bleed and that old unit would have been fine.
Chase Brown negative! Not always. We recently did an ABS bleed with a high end OBD reader walks you through the steps of bleeding the abs system, and it still didn’t fix the issue. What you suggested would help some people depending how bad their ABS pump is.
Got the same issue on my 2005 Escalade...mines turned out to be abs pump
Good Find!!
Same with my 2009 Ford Fusion, apparently common with these vehicles
I have the same issue with my 07 Fusion. After a panic stop the brake pedal went just about all the way down. My mechanic bled the brakes. Ok until next panic stop. Same thing. Long brake pedal travel. So they changed the master cylinder. Feeling good and safe now. Today skidded on some leaves.. ABS engaged and same thing. Long brake pedal travel . So back to the shop for probably the repair that is done here. Ah well. Gotta have brakes.
very interesting, I have a 97 gmc sierra that I've tried bleeding the brakes different ways but no luck.it's got a spongy pedal and the absolute pump growls every time you start it up and take off,and while driving without touching the brakes, would you recommend replacing the absolute pump
Your brakes were solid no sinking pedal untill you started your engine right?
Yeeeeeppppp......
I am having sort of the same problem. I had the master cylinder and power booster replaced and I have a slight pedal fade as I apply the brakes. The pedal doesn't go all the way, but it fades enough for me to have to pump it once or twice to get a firm pedal. Do you think it could be in the control module itself or the whole unit?
Where did you get the master cylinder? Is it new?
Both were brand new from NAPA.
Question....so when you took off the brake line that routed to the abs pump to test the master cylinder...did you plug the hole where you took out the line of the master cylinder? or did you just go ahead and pumped the pedal to check if it stiffened up?
No plugs anywhere. Hooked everything back up...Just pumped until the pedal got hard.
Ty so much
Did u check brake screw on calipers...if they are on the bottom, it means that air is trapped there. Screws need to be on the top of caliper
Na, it was the ABS...I did everything I could.
Hey buddy,I’m having a problem with my 73 Datsun 620 pick up truck brake pedal to the floor,I changed the master cylinder,bled the mc and all the wheels,new fluid,changed hoses,all wheel cylinders have no leaks and nothing still pedal to the floor,any advice on what can I do?
I will let you know soon I done I almost have same situation but with Hyundai elantra
I hope it’s not my ABS and it’s just the master cylinder 🤞😮💨
Me too!!!