Great video! saved me so much time pumping! almost went nuts when the lever didn't build pressure.. till i watched this video. Great content and very well explained.
I taught my Mechanic about using the pipe for bleeding and now he is happy about it. He charged me $5 for the entire thing + chain adjustment/clean + clutch service and washed my entire master cylinder! Love our Indian technician
@@sportbiketrackgear Ofcourse thus I commented about the pricing. But the level of understanding deeper knowledge is less. Thats why I showed him the bleeding way with the pipe and told him the science behind him for better understanding. Cheers for the work mate!
Big thanks for all the time you’ve spent over the years and you still spend explaining in the most comprehensive way how to do things. I understand so many things with your videos starting with the right suit size 😂 Now I’ll go for my pads and fluid! Really grateful Cheers Fred
Just one thing. On my Aprilia, the service manual says, that after bleeding set the ABS to lowest setting. Activate the ABS on purpose with a rapid stop. Go back to the shop and repeat the bleeding. That is to get the fluid and air out of the ABS unit.
I believe it all depends on your specific vehicle or bike. I'm guessing most Japanese ABS systems are "open" type and this allows you to just bleed the brakes as you normally would if you didn't have ABS. If your service manual shows to just bleed the brakes as you normally would after replacing the ABS module, then you know it is the open type system. A "closed" system would require an electronic diagnostic tool that plugs into the ECU and you should be able to find the procedure somewhere for that. But yeah I still haven't seen anybody do a video on it for some reason. I think Beemers are like that.
You’re an amazing pro with great videos that have taught me tons. Please consider throwing on some ear pro when dealing with the blow gun homie. 🤜 🤛 ✌️
Tip : On two non-ABS bikes that I've owned I have bled off the last bit of air with MityVac vacuum pump from the top. Make up a small aluminum plate, just a little bigger than the reservoir opening. Drill a hole in the plate and insert a bit of metal tubing for a bleeder nipple - just big enough to fit the MityVac rubber tubing. Make the tube / plate connection a snug fit and seal it; I use Loctite 609 Sleeve Retainer. Pump the MityVac for a minute or two and activate the brake lever at the same time. This will pull the air out the top without bringing any fluid with it. It's like Viagra for brakes. The levers were hard as rocks. I've never seen anyone else do this. I haven't tried it on my newer ABS equipped bike yet but will try it shortly.
This was a very old comment, but if you read it i just wanted to let you know that i made one like yours, but with plexiglass. To get a good seal i had to drill holes and use the regular lids mounting, but damn - amazing results. It pulled air from my fully bled system like no other. I know that you de-aerate polymers for casting with vacuum, i can imagine this having the same effect. Cheers!
I'm so tempted of the loading up my bike here in south GA and coming up there for a couple days just so you can check it over I see you are very meticulous about things and I like that, I just bought a hayabusa and I told there mechanic the brakes needed bleeding do to spongyness and he tried to tell me no there fine but hey you can't argue with stupid.
Great info!! Doing my 2014 rt spyder and no good videos out there. Three calipers so this video should help my with my overdue brake bleed project. Thanks guys!!
Great video, now if anyone can figure out the Aprilia Caponord Rally and the BMW GS with ABS in front and Back. My bikes never been the same after dealers and other shops replaced the fluid and bleed the system. Even after dealer activated the ABS with the PODS, and replacing the MC with Brembo 19c, at the end You need to pump the brake lever to make it work.. Thanks
This process has worked on every ABS equipped bike we have done as project bikes thus far. We do not do service here, all of the videos we are doing now are project bikes we are building. - Van
The brake bleeding system you are using is absolutely fine for bikes without ABS.For bikes with ABS,this method will not fully replace the brake fluid in the ABS pump.The pump needs to be electronically activated to fully evacuate the old dirty brake fluid that will remain in the pump.Failure to do this will result in early failure of the ABS pump.Each bike manufacturer has a service tool to allow this function to be carried out.
That is a very small amount of fluid, not enough to have any impact on the rest of the fluid. End of the day you never really get ALL of the fluid replaced, just most of it. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear Your method is better than not doing it at all, even with not changing the fluid in the ABS circuitry. Maybe after you have bled the brakes like you do, go out for a ride and get the front & rear ABS to kick in which may take in clean fluid and expel old as it is working. Could bleed again if anal.
That's right. Same with transmission fluid or antifreeze. Eventually, the old fluid will be replaced with the new fluid. There is no need to be anal about it and do full flush on the system.
On a 2023 CFMOTO 450ss if the front brake system got air in it. It has abs. Do you also have to bleed the rear? Or is it separate from the front abs system. Rear revivor is completely full. So here's what happened. My two sons took it upon themselves to serve the front brakes. Its my 19 year old's bike and he said they felt like they were not working as well as they did when new. He is hard on the bike. So I figured the pads were glossed over. Which they were and I fixed, but not before my 19 year old and 15 year old had already tried to bleed the front single caliper brake system. They tried to gravity bleed both the caliper and the master. They got air in the system and that's when I stepped in. Now even after bleeding till no more air comes out if you hold the front lever it eventually looses pressure. And front brake releases. No leaks. Nothing dripping. You can hear the front caliper creak and then release as the lever looses all pressure. I do not have a vacuum. I bled them by pumping and holding method. Did the one caliber first. Then went to the Master cylinder bleeder. We repeated this a minimum of 10 times.
@@sportbiketrackgear we ended up having to do a vacuum bleed. Kept the reservoir full and kept the vacuum hooked up. We had tried it no less than 30 times pumping and holding and it still was bleeding down when you held the brake. Vacuum did the trick. I bought a kit off amazon that had qt reservoir bottled. And the vacuum pump hooked up to an air compressor. About half way through the qt. Saw a bunch of bubbles. Thought the reservoir had went dry. Had to have been air stuck in the abs pump.
Useful tip about using a cable tie to hold the lever over night. Personally I wouldn’t use the ‘old ladies hairdryer’, if she found out she’d cut the brake lines 😀
Apparently this bike has an open ABS system. But if someone with a bike with a closed ABS system (like my Triumph Rocket III Touring followed this procedure, they would not be bleeding their ABS system. I'm surprised you didn't mention this especially considering the title of the video. You didn't even mention ABS. Anyone watching this should understand that this method may not bleed your bikes ABS system. I hope you know this and don't assume this works for all bikes.
Great vid and explanation of why to bleed the way you've demonstrated. One thing I'd add specifically for ABS systems (from the shop manual for my Triumph Street Triple R) is to also activate the ABS solenoids after going through the normal bleed procedure. I use a Bluetooth ODB2 plug and TuneECU on my Android to do so. Admittedly, not much fluid volume in there, but might be useful when starting with a dry system.
Kane harry maybe my terminology is wrong (probably should have said ABS system or pump). Basically your activating the ABS system in the garage (instead of on the street) to bleed out any last air bubbles from the ABS system.
I have a Streety too Standard with abs but I'm just gonna do it without the tuneEcu or whatever. Don't think it's needed really unless you have a dry system like you said. I heard once you activate the ABS on the road right after it's all good. If worried about it go back to the garage after the abs got activated and maybe bleed one more time.. im not a pro popcorn farting mechanic though...lol
The Honda CBR1000RR and its Combined ABS is one of the exceptions. The Honda Service Manual P 16-13 warns that in addition to the calipers, the valve and power units must also be bled. It warns "... are very involved and include many steps. All the steps must be followed exactly and completely." Also "Supporting with the side stand will be impossible to bleed the air completely."
While there is always an exception I would still give this a shot before doing all of that. When I was at the dealer (Cadillac Tech) there were so many complex procedures in the manual that were just not necessary to get a good result from the repair. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear I suspect that you are right. But, I recently had a local shop install new stainless lines and now the ABS light comes on periodically. It's highly unlikely that he did the full meal deal bleeding procedure. Powering off the bike and then back on seems to reset it for a while. It may not mean imminent failure but it is a little unnerving. And thanks for these videos; they are really informative.
front and back are linked on my yamaha, and despite bleeding the thing to death, exactly, and triggering the abs, it still has air in it only in the rear. I brought it to yamaha, they have not been able to clear it for going on 1 week. I have never had any problems with non abs systems for over 40 years.
Yamaha motorcycles have an open ABS system means you can bleed the brake system the old fashioned way even with the ABS block between the main cylinder and brake caliper. Did it a few days ago on my Tenere 700 after switching brake lines. Even though the manual tells you "you need a tester to bleed the system" which is BS. Don't know why they write it... I bought a Duonix tester just for fun and after bleeding the system I let the ABS work. Didn't make a difference.
Если вы не сливаете полностью тормозную жидкость, а планируете её заменить свежей..То просто доливайте в бачек и качайте рычаг не закручивая клапан на суппорте. Далее, доливая чистую жидкость в бачек, не опустошая дно тормозного бачка, закрутите клапан на левом суппорте и проделайте всю процедуру с правым суппортом.
super slow way to bleed. i used to do this, but now i reverse bleed with a syringe, super safe, super fast and much more effective (no air in brake lines at all).
I have a power bleeder the I use when servicing our bikes which is a great way to get the job done. That said most do not have access to an air compressor and power bleeder combo so the manual method we show here is the most convenient option. - Van
Great video and explanation. Would love to see you do a 2020 and up Rocket 3, because there is apparently a problem with the rear brake bleeding when they first do it when making the bike. A bunch of us have to go back to the dealership on warranty, but I’m not sure if there is a conception problem with the bike, because it don’t look like it always solve the problem.
Great vid, but I would not use a paper shop rag to clean a bike, especially on that carbon fiber exhaust. Microfiber is the way to go (without paper) :) Thanks so much for the vid.
Hey big fan of your videos! So I was bleeding my brakes through the instructions given in this video. Something weird happened.. I completely drained the brake fluid that was in the bike and then I put new brake fluid into the reservoir and began bleeding the brakes. Working my way up the calipers did fine. Then on the master the first few pumps were solid, started getting good feel of the brakes filling in as I pumped the lever but after about the 4th or 5th set, the lever began to compress all the way down to the handle and it was nothing but air in the tubes. So I thought ok maybe I didnt bleed the calipers enough and once I finished the calipers and tried the master again, at about the 2nd or 3rd set it began having solid feel to it and the fluid was flowing but again after the 4th or 5th set it did the same thing, lever compressed all the down to the handle and nothing but air in the tube. I decided to call it a day so I sealed everything up for another day and thought I'd pump the lever just to see what would happen and it felt solid. I tied a zip tie to the lever and I thought I'd see if it was good and its solid. Any idea what's going on? Things didnt go according to your video but the brakes are working. I'd really appreciate your help! I guess I'm a bit worried that I may done something wrong and end up paying for it when I'm riding and pulling that brake lever and nothing gives.
Great Video on brake bleeding. Just did my BMW R1200Rt today after reinstalling my rebuilt ABS unit. BMW requires a GS911 diagnostic tool to assist with the bleed. Do you need that type of procedure on a Yamaha?
The problem is that when engine is off, abs unit is isolated from the rest brake system. So the fluid and air inside the unit never gets bleeded. At one point when you drive the abs unit will engage mixin its old fluid and bubbles, with the new one so you will have again soft brakes. You have to electronically operate the abs valves so you can bleed also the fluid that is inside the unit.
This will not be an issue 99% of the time. I have bleed ABS equipped autos and motorcycles countless times over the years using this method and can tell you it works. To be fair (depending on the system) there is a possibility of having an air bubble (or some old fluid) trapped that will be introduced into the system when it is activated. After completing the bleed process ride the bike and activate the ABS when it is safe to do so to cycle the system. If the lever feel softer after you may have introduced some air into the system and will need to re-bleed. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear that you for your answer sir. This is also what I have read and heard from other sources also. Soon I will change pads and I will try out your method.
Yeh, for this reason I have my brake fluid changed at the dealer. I can only trust that they modulate the abs system electronically. I have asked them about it and they cut me short by telling me they’ve done it properly. Sheesh, I’m only asking lol
Van, when you do the cable tie tip is there any need to open the reservoir cup (you show it closed so i assume not) ? Let it sit duriong night time would do, right ? Thanks and this is best bleeding video around man !
No do not leave the cap off the reservoir any longer than you absolutely have to. Brake fluid will attract and retain moisture, this is not a good thing. You are welcome for the video, happy to help out. - Van
There is absolutely no way to bleed the current Yamaha ABS system. Once you get air in the system it goes to the highest point (the pump) and stops the rear caliper from working. You can actually do the fronts as the master cylinder is the high point. In the rear what happens is you bleed like normal and you can do a pressure bleed, a vacuum bleed or a traditional pump bleed lock repeat all work until you start the bike and the ABS comes on. The ABS pump will override the caliper and you no longer will have actuation and have a very hard pedal. I have tried to bleed with the bike running and with the bike running and the rear wheel running all with no effect. I then did a major disassemble of bike and did a bleed at the fittings going in and out of pump unfortunately pump is still the high spot and even with this no way to purge air from pump. I purchased the Vortex rear set with the pressure brake switch once i did this I no longer have rear brakes. Spent $500 at Yamaha dealer got my brand new R6 back with zero rear brakes. The sad part is the brakes work amazing when the bike is off. The ABS has the ability to prevent the caliper from working. I then thought what is I take a hard line straight from master cylinder to the rear caliper this worked amazing until I started the bike. When I started the bike the caliper again locked up the little hose going to the caliper is the little gremlin that holds it open. Yamaha and STG both let me down as they truly never bled an ABS system there is a big difference. I have talked to more than 30 people 4 dealerships and they all say the same thing only thing you can do with the R6 ABS is do a delete. 100% of all I have talked to that went with Pressure switch had to do an ABS delete and I definitely would not have changed any part of this had I known the 100s of hours and excessive money spent to have a bike with no rear brake. STG should have actually done a ABS bike atleast they could have told us the issues and we could have mitigated the foreseeable failures. Please fix this video.
This video is accurate, used the same process on multiple ABS equipped bikes we have installed brake lines on here with ZERO issues. With that said there are exceptions to every rule as there is certainly more than one ABS system being used today. Like I said via email I am happy to help you get this sorted out. - Van
Popcorn fart level dryness! Too dang funny. Thanks for video, big help, as I'm about to do a stainless braided upgrade. Question, if I have a front GP style brake setup, where only one line goes to the master cylinder, then Y's somewhere above the front tire to both calipers, do I need to have bleeder bags on both calipers at the same time?
Yeah ima just take it to a shop super confusing , ive changed oils, coolants, brake pads, fairings, taillight connectors but this seems the hardest idk why lol
Great tip with the cable tie holding the brake lever. Is there any time period that is better? Overnight or a few hours? The last bit of air will go to the reservoir and it's perfect. No reason you couldn't do that trick every few months to keep the brakes 100% ?
I like to let it sit overnight if there is enough time. The only time this is worth doing is if you have replaced the brake fluid or had the system opened up for service. - Van
I was bleeding a 2015 FJR with a vacuum bleeder and it sucked some air in because the level got to low, the job turned into a miss but thank goodness your old traditional method worked perfect. My question is did this bleed the abs pump or do I need to activate the pump once I have the basic bleeding completed then re-bleed it again? Great video 👍👍
You should be good to go. If you are concerned ride the bike and activate the ABS when it is safe to do so. If there is any air trapped in there this will introduce it into the system and you will just need to bleed it one more time. - Van
Interesting but doesn't air end up in the ABS pump and trapped? I work on several motorcycle Mfg's and some suggest NOT to get any air in the ABS pump. If air is in the ABS pump some MFG's will suggest it will need to go to the dealer to be bleed. Also only way the zip tie trick would work is if the ABS pump in below the rear master cylinder brake fluid holder/filling location.
While I am sure there are exceptions to this I have installed brake line kits on numerous ABS equipped bikes and have never had a problem. In my previous life I was a tech at a Cadillac dealer and serviced ABS brakes more times than I can remember now. From BMPV installs to calipers I never ran into an issue. - Van
So it is just the same, but takes longer to fill or refresh because the path it takes is longer? I was a bit hesitate to flush my system, didnt want to end with a not working brake system
Hi.. thanks for the tutorial.. i am using kawasaki versys 1000 abs 2013.. abs lights on before start riding (which is normal), after start riding it goes off (also normal).. but after about 100m distance abs light will turn on and stays on, not blinking.. turning off engine and restarted will not solve the problem.. any idea ?
You will need to research how to pull the fault codes from the system so you can diagnose it. This is not a model I have an real experience with. - Van
There could be a lot of reasons for this. If you do not have a leak in the system then odds are you still have some air in it. Just keep bleeding as we show here and you should be good. - Van
I typically use my power bleeder to do that. You can also bleed the brakes down to the point where the reservoir is almost empty, then refill with with fresh fluid and continue. This is only an option if the reservoir does not need to be cleaned out. - Van
Hi I have fz1 2013 model, my abs doesn't work even not showing any error on meter but when ever I connect jumper to diagnoses connector it's shows multiple codes at the time turning on switch and when turn off all lights n codes are gone but problem remain same abs not in working
When you speak of a "Leak Check", what do you do if you find one of the bleeder valves is leaking or very lightly weeping fluid? Do you torque it tighter? And if so, how much more torque do you apply? I suspect you will be using inch pounds? I ask because, my Service Manual stated 49-inch pounds and that was leaking. 71 inch pounds was weeping. I wound up at my current torque of 75 inch pounds. I don't know what "right" looks like. And if I keep torqueing until the bleeder valve is "tight", can that be over-torqueing the bleeder valve or causing any damage to the calipers internal design?
@@sportbiketrackgear Will do. And oddly enough, the current bleed valve I am using did not have any thread sealant on it. My new one ordered from Kawasaki does. I am hoping the new bleed valve will seat properly and seal off any weeping fluid. If not, it must be an issue with the Master Cylinder or the threads inside the master cylinder itself. BTW, Jack is helping me find the correct Speed Bleeders for my application.
why not use the vacuum pump with a gauge. Bleeds the abs modulator brake pump and calipers to the oem spec. when the abs modulator is activated the pressure in the system must be the correct one, otherwise it doesn't work. I have a BMW and that's what the dealer does. tests the whole system under all conditions to the correct psi.
When you do the Zip-tie trick and the air comes over night to the lever (in my example it was so much I had no lever anymore). What is the best way to get that air out? Do you think it just goes to the reservoir or keep bleeding at the Master Cylinder ?
The zip tie trick will only be effective if you already have a reasonable lever. In your case it sounds like you need to continue bleeding or you may possibly have a problem in the system. - Van
Great video! saved me so much time pumping! almost went nuts when the lever didn't build pressure.. till i watched this video. Great content and very well explained.
Happy to help out! - Van
You are the Garand Thumb of bikes.....we shall call you 'Bike Daddy"
I’ve been needing to do a new break job on my scrambler 1100 and this is by far the BEST video I’ve see on how to do it.
Happy to hear you found this helpful and thank you for watching! - Van
These videos are saving me tons from dealer service fees thank you
You are welcome, thank you for watching! - Van
I taught my Mechanic about using the pipe for bleeding and now he is happy about it. He charged me $5 for the entire thing + chain adjustment/clean + clutch service and washed my entire master cylinder! Love our Indian technician
You are never getting all of that done here in the US for $5. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear Ofcourse thus I commented about the pricing. But the level of understanding deeper knowledge is less. Thats why I showed him the bleeding way with the pipe and told him the science behind him for better understanding. Cheers for the work mate!
Big thanks for all the time you’ve spent over the years and you still spend explaining in the most comprehensive way how to do things.
I understand so many things with your videos starting with the right suit size 😂
Now I’ll go for my pads and fluid!
Really grateful
Cheers
Fred
Happy to hear the videos have been helpful and thank you for watching! - Van
Ahh My FAV MECHANIC GUY!!! He covers all the Unknown BS you don't think of to SET UP!!! Thank You STG!
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
I’ve learned how to bleed brakes from your videos, greetings from mexico 🤝
Happy to hear the video was helpful! - Van
So true Brian. The only way I could get the last bit of air out was the zip tie trick on my 2015 R1. Great vid as always.
straping brake lever helped me, got the old feedback in my bike , thanks
Happy to hear this was helpful. - Van
Your video are awesome thank you so much. I almost givin up and getting ready to take it to the shop you had save me time and money.
Happy to hear it was helpful and thank you for watching! - Van
Just one thing. On my Aprilia, the service manual says, that after bleeding set the ABS to lowest setting. Activate the ABS on purpose with a rapid stop. Go back to the shop and repeat the bleeding. That is to get the fluid and air out of the ABS unit.
thats pretty funny.
Everybody is making caliper and cylinder bleeding video .. Make an ABS pump bleeding procedure video please..
@Ding Dong is it the same procedure on all Yamaha bikes. I can only see bridging for fjr1300
I believe it all depends on your specific vehicle or bike. I'm guessing most Japanese ABS systems are "open" type and this allows you to just bleed the brakes as you normally would if you didn't have ABS.
If your service manual shows to just bleed the brakes as you normally would after replacing the ABS module, then you know it is the open type system.
A "closed" system would require an electronic diagnostic tool that plugs into the ECU and you should be able to find the procedure somewhere for that. But yeah I still haven't seen anybody do a video on it for some reason. I think Beemers are like that.
Amazing guide! I have bleed air from the callipers following this video
Happy to hear it was helpful and thanks for watching! - Van
Never seen the pressure trick after bleeding, great trick :-)
I do this on all the bikes to get the best lever possible. - Van
Thanks for the video. Time for a Larger Shirt Ahnold ! “Get to the chopper”.
I put on a few lbs here. Back to normal now. - Van
You are quite simply the best!! Happy 2024!!
Thank you for watching and for the kind words. - Van
thank you dude i missed the master cylinder now my lever is hard !!!!!! you save me
Happy to help out! - Van
Does every bike have the top master cylinder? I have a 2023 I don’t see it
You’re an amazing pro with great videos that have taught me tons. Please consider throwing on some ear pro when dealing with the blow gun homie. 🤜 🤛 ✌️
Thanks for watching and the kind words. - Van
Tip : On two non-ABS bikes that I've owned I have bled off the last bit of air with MityVac vacuum pump from the top. Make up a small aluminum plate, just a little bigger than the reservoir opening. Drill a hole in the plate and insert a bit of metal tubing for a bleeder nipple - just big enough to fit the MityVac rubber tubing. Make the tube / plate connection a snug fit and seal it; I use Loctite 609 Sleeve Retainer. Pump the MityVac for a minute or two and activate the brake lever at the same time. This will pull the air out the top without bringing any fluid with it. It's like Viagra for brakes. The levers were hard as rocks. I've never seen anyone else do this. I haven't tried it on my newer ABS equipped bike yet but will try it shortly.
You can get the same result by putting a cable tie on the brake lever and letting the bike sit over night. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear Yes, I saw that in the video and I have tried it. The Mityvac is faster and gives better results. 2 minutes vs 12 hours.
Oh god damn thats a good idea
This was a very old comment, but if you read it i just wanted to let you know that i made one like yours, but with plexiglass.
To get a good seal i had to drill holes and use the regular lids mounting, but damn - amazing results.
It pulled air from my fully bled system like no other.
I know that you de-aerate polymers for casting with vacuum, i can imagine this having the same effect.
Cheers!
@@aaaaaa-lt2tl So glad to see that someone gave it a try and saw how well it worked. I've never heard of anyone else doing this.
I'm so tempted of the loading up my bike here in south GA and coming up there for a couple days just so you can check it over I see you are very meticulous about things and I like that, I just bought a hayabusa and I told there mechanic the brakes needed bleeding do to spongyness and he tried to tell me no there fine but hey you can't argue with stupid.
Thank you from Canada , useful like always !!!
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
I've never seen safty wire pliers. That was really nifty in action! I feel confidant attacking a break service job now YEA!!!
Happy you found the video helpful. - Van
excellent video! love the ZIP TIE trick. might include abit re speed bleeders.
It helps for sure. Thanks for watching! - Van
Great Video, Brian. Thanks for the detail (A-Z)
Great video, now I know what I did wrong in my Super tenere
Thank you
You are welcome and thanks for watching! - Van
Yeah, Beemers do have additional bleeders. And they are buried underneath all the body work. Still good to know and the zip ties are a helpful tip.
Great info!! Doing my 2014 rt spyder and no good videos out there. Three calipers so this video should help my with my overdue brake bleed project. Thanks guys!!
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
Good thing I watched this cuz I was only opening it like two times was getting pissed thinking my cylinder bad lol I'll go bk n try it over n over .
Follow this process and you should be good to go. - Van
I just kept pumping it n used a straw so fluid didn't get in my rims n it finally worked almost one hole refill of fluid
Speed bleeders are awesome.
Great video, now if anyone can figure out the Aprilia Caponord Rally and the BMW GS with ABS in front and Back. My bikes never been the same after dealers and other shops replaced the fluid and bleed the system. Even after dealer activated the ABS with the PODS, and replacing the MC with Brembo 19c, at the end You need to pump the brake lever to make it work.. Thanks
Please do a video on the close system abs. They require different way of bleeding the brake fluid.
This process has worked on every ABS equipped bike we have done as project bikes thus far. We do not do service here, all of the videos we are doing now are project bikes we are building. - Van
The brake bleeding system you are using is absolutely fine for bikes without ABS.For bikes with ABS,this method will not fully replace the brake fluid in the ABS pump.The pump needs to be electronically activated to fully evacuate the old dirty brake fluid that will remain in the pump.Failure to do this will result in early failure of the ABS pump.Each bike manufacturer has a service tool to allow this function to be carried out.
That is a very small amount of fluid, not enough to have any impact on the rest of the fluid. End of the day you never really get ALL of the fluid replaced, just most of it. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear Your method is better than not doing it at all, even with not changing the fluid in the ABS circuitry.
Maybe after you have bled the brakes like you do, go out for a ride and get the front & rear ABS to kick in which may take in clean fluid and expel old as it is working.
Could bleed again if anal.
That's right. Same with transmission fluid or antifreeze. Eventually, the old fluid will be replaced with the new fluid. There is no need to be anal about it and do full flush on the system.
On a 2023 CFMOTO 450ss if the front brake system got air in it. It has abs. Do you also have to bleed the rear? Or is it separate from the front abs system. Rear revivor is completely full. So here's what happened. My two sons took it upon themselves to serve the front brakes. Its my 19 year old's bike and he said they felt like they were not working as well as they did when new. He is hard on the bike. So I figured the pads were glossed over. Which they were and I fixed, but not before my 19 year old and 15 year old had already tried to bleed the front single caliper brake system. They tried to gravity bleed both the caliper and the master. They got air in the system and that's when I stepped in. Now even after bleeding till no more air comes out if you hold the front lever it eventually looses pressure. And front brake releases. No leaks. Nothing dripping. You can hear the front caliper creak and then release as the lever looses all pressure. I do not have a vacuum. I bled them by pumping and holding method. Did the one caliber first. Then went to the Master cylinder bleeder. We repeated this a minimum of 10 times.
This process will work on that bike and should solve your issue. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear we ended up having to do a vacuum bleed. Kept the reservoir full and kept the vacuum hooked up. We had tried it no less than 30 times pumping and holding and it still was bleeding down when you held the brake. Vacuum did the trick. I bought a kit off amazon that had qt reservoir bottled. And the vacuum pump hooked up to an air compressor. About half way through the qt. Saw a bunch of bubbles. Thought the reservoir had went dry. Had to have been air stuck in the abs pump.
Above excellent. Thanks for sharing
thanks for such an awesome well explained video. I know theres a lot of videos out there on this subject, however this one cut the mustard great!
Useful tip about using a cable tie to hold the lever over night. Personally I wouldn’t use the ‘old ladies hairdryer’, if she found out she’d cut the brake lines 😀
Letting that sit overnight gets you the best possible lever. - Van
Really well explained video! Loads of help!!
Happy to hear it was helpful, thank you for watching! - Van
Thanks bro. Your guide assist me a lot! Thank you 🙏 for the tips.
You are welcome and thanks for watching! - Van
Nice video van... Thanks
You are welcome and thanks for watching! - Van
Apparently this bike has an open ABS system. But if someone with a bike with a closed ABS system (like my Triumph Rocket III Touring followed this procedure, they would not be bleeding their ABS system. I'm surprised you didn't mention this especially considering the title of the video. You didn't even mention ABS. Anyone watching this should understand that this method may not bleed your bikes ABS system. I hope you know this and don't assume this works for all bikes.
Great explanation
Happy it was helpful and thank you for watching. - Van
great vid buddy, really helped me thankyou. Mike from NZ.
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
You got a round reservoir.. you could use a.pressure bleeder on it
You could but there is really no reason to. - Van
Great vid and explanation of why to bleed the way you've demonstrated. One thing I'd add specifically for ABS systems (from the shop manual for my Triumph Street Triple R) is to also activate the ABS solenoids after going through the normal bleed procedure. I use a Bluetooth ODB2 plug and TuneECU on my Android to do so. Admittedly, not much fluid volume in there, but might be useful when starting with a dry system.
IslandTosh Can you please explain for a mechanic novice what activating the ABS solonoids means/does? Cheers
Kane harry maybe my terminology is wrong (probably should have said ABS system or pump). Basically your activating the ABS system in the garage (instead of on the street) to bleed out any last air bubbles from the ABS system.
Thank you
I have a Streety too Standard with abs but I'm just gonna do it without the tuneEcu or whatever. Don't think it's needed really unless you have a dry system like you said. I heard once you activate the ABS on the road right after it's all good. If worried about it go back to the garage after the abs got activated and maybe bleed one more time.. im not a pro popcorn farting mechanic though...lol
Good tips, thanks for sharing!
You are welcome, thank you for watching! - Van
The Honda CBR1000RR and its Combined ABS is one of the exceptions. The Honda Service Manual P 16-13 warns that in addition to the calipers, the valve and power units must also be bled. It warns "... are very involved and include many steps. All the steps must be followed exactly and completely." Also "Supporting with the side stand will be impossible to bleed the air completely."
While there is always an exception I would still give this a shot before doing all of that. When I was at the dealer (Cadillac Tech) there were so many complex procedures in the manual that were just not necessary to get a good result from the repair. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear I suspect that you are right. But, I recently had a local shop install new stainless lines and now the ABS light comes on periodically. It's highly unlikely that he did the full meal deal bleeding procedure. Powering off the bike and then back on seems to reset it for a while. It may not mean imminent failure but it is a little unnerving.
And thanks for these videos; they are really informative.
front and back are linked on my yamaha, and despite bleeding the thing to death, exactly, and triggering the abs, it still has air in it only in the rear. I brought it to yamaha, they have not been able to clear it for going on 1 week. I have never had any problems with non abs systems for over 40 years.
abs is soooo complicated
"Dry as a popcorn fart," hahahaha. I'm going to use that one.
Nothing in the world is drier. - Van
You've got too be a Gen X, because that saying is as old as the hills! 🍼
13:40 I just grab a 10 pound weight from my workout bench and lay it on the rear brake lever over night lol works everytime.
That is a good idea, thanks for sharing. - Van
Yamaha motorcycles have an open ABS system means you can bleed the brake system the old fashioned way even with the ABS block between the main cylinder and brake caliper. Did it a few days ago on my Tenere 700 after switching brake lines. Even though the manual tells you "you need a tester to bleed the system" which is BS. Don't know why they write it... I bought a Duonix tester just for fun and after bleeding the system I let the ABS work. Didn't make a difference.
Thanks for this comment I just changed brake lines on my T7 and was wondering about that, lol.
@@arch126 Yeah the workshop manual makes it more complicated than it actually is. 😁
Is that just a colostomy bag for a motorcycle?
Great video.
Thank you for watching! - Van
Thanks for showing this
You are welcome and thanks for watching. - Van
Если вы не сливаете полностью тормозную жидкость, а планируете её заменить свежей..То просто доливайте в бачек и качайте рычаг не закручивая клапан на суппорте. Далее, доливая чистую жидкость в бачек, не опустошая дно тормозного бачка, закрутите клапан на левом суппорте и проделайте всю процедуру с правым суппортом.
No hablo
super slow way to bleed. i used to do this, but now i reverse bleed with a syringe, super safe, super fast and much more effective (no air in brake lines at all).
I have a power bleeder the I use when servicing our bikes which is a great way to get the job done. That said most do not have access to an air compressor and power bleeder combo so the manual method we show here is the most convenient option. - Van
Thorough video. Thanks man
You are welcome and thanks for watching! - Van
Thanks this was super helpful. As helpful as a popcorn fart
LOL thanks for watching! - Van
Great video and explanation. Would love to see you do a 2020 and up Rocket 3, because there is apparently a problem with the rear brake bleeding when they first do it when making the bike. A bunch of us have to go back to the dealership on warranty, but I’m not sure if there is a conception problem with the bike, because it don’t look like it always solve the problem.
Sorry the Rocket is a little out of our wheel house, we focus on sportbikes for the most part. - Van
Great vid, but I would not use a paper shop rag to clean a bike, especially on that carbon fiber exhaust. Microfiber is the way to go (without paper) :) Thanks so much for the vid.
I use the shop towel with the Maxima SC1 or Speedwax and finish with a microfiber. Thanks for watching! - Van
I have a BMW and there is a module for opening the valves in the ABS pump with a laptop to purge the air out
Hey big fan of your videos! So I was bleeding my brakes through the instructions given in this video. Something weird happened..
I completely drained the brake fluid that was in the bike and then I put new brake fluid into the reservoir and began bleeding the brakes. Working my way up the calipers did fine. Then on the master the first few pumps were solid, started getting good feel of the brakes filling in as I pumped the lever but after about the 4th or 5th set, the lever began to compress all the way down to the handle and it was nothing but air in the tubes. So I thought ok maybe I didnt bleed the calipers enough and once I finished the calipers and tried the master again, at about the 2nd or 3rd set it began having solid feel to it and the fluid was flowing but again after the 4th or 5th set it did the same thing, lever compressed all the down to the handle and nothing but air in the tube.
I decided to call it a day so I sealed everything up for another day and thought I'd pump the lever just to see what would happen and it felt solid. I tied a zip tie to the lever and I thought I'd see if it was good and its solid.
Any idea what's going on? Things didnt go according to your video but the brakes are working. I'd really appreciate your help!
I guess I'm a bit worried that I may done something wrong and end up paying for it when I'm riding and pulling that brake lever and nothing gives.
Fantastic videos 👍👍..
Thank you for watching! - Van
Great Video on brake bleeding. Just did my BMW R1200Rt today after reinstalling my rebuilt ABS unit. BMW requires a GS911 diagnostic tool to assist with the bleed. Do you need that type of procedure on a Yamaha?
You do not need that tool on the Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki's I have done. - Van
The problem is that when engine is off, abs unit is isolated from the rest brake system. So the fluid and air inside the unit never gets bleeded.
At one point when you drive the abs unit will engage mixin its old fluid and bubbles, with the new one so you will have again soft brakes.
You have to electronically operate the abs valves so you can bleed also the fluid that is inside the unit.
This will not be an issue 99% of the time. I have bleed ABS equipped autos and motorcycles countless times over the years using this method and can tell you it works. To be fair (depending on the system) there is a possibility of having an air bubble (or some old fluid) trapped that will be introduced into the system when it is activated. After completing the bleed process ride the bike and activate the ABS when it is safe to do so to cycle the system. If the lever feel softer after you may have introduced some air into the system and will need to re-bleed. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear that you for your answer sir. This is also what I have read and heard from other sources also. Soon I will change pads and I will try out your method.
Yeh, for this reason I have my brake fluid changed at the dealer. I can only trust that they modulate the abs system electronically. I have asked them about it and they cut me short by telling me they’ve done it properly. Sheesh, I’m only asking lol
Just curious why you didn't bleed the Left Front Caliper also? I got the general idea of your bleeding technique and it was helpful. Thanks
Happy to hear it was helpful. The length of the circuits is super close so you can start with the left or the right and get the same end result. - Van
Van, when you do the cable tie tip is there any need to open the reservoir cup (you show it closed so i assume not) ? Let it sit duriong night time would do, right ? Thanks and this is best bleeding video around man !
No do not leave the cap off the reservoir any longer than you absolutely have to. Brake fluid will attract and retain moisture, this is not a good thing. You are welcome for the video, happy to help out. - Van
how can the air escape if you dont open the cap reservoir
TIGHTER!
Thanks for watching! - Van
There is absolutely no way to bleed the current Yamaha ABS system. Once you get air in the system it goes to the highest point (the pump) and stops the rear caliper from working. You can actually do the fronts as the master cylinder is the high point. In the rear what happens is you bleed like normal and you can do a pressure bleed, a vacuum bleed or a traditional pump bleed lock repeat all work until you start the bike and the ABS comes on. The ABS pump will override the caliper and you no longer will have actuation and have a very hard pedal. I have tried to bleed with the bike running and with the bike running and the rear wheel running all with no effect. I then did a major disassemble of bike and did a bleed at the fittings going in and out of pump unfortunately pump is still the high spot and even with this no way to purge air from pump. I purchased the Vortex rear set with the pressure brake switch once i did this I no longer have rear brakes. Spent $500 at Yamaha dealer got my brand new R6 back with zero rear brakes. The sad part is the brakes work amazing when the bike is off. The ABS has the ability to prevent the caliper from working. I then thought what is I take a hard line straight from master cylinder to the rear caliper this worked amazing until I started the bike. When I started the bike the caliper again locked up the little hose going to the caliper is the little gremlin that holds it open. Yamaha and STG both let me down as they truly never bled an ABS system there is a big difference. I have talked to more than 30 people 4 dealerships and they all say the same thing only thing you can do with the R6 ABS is do a delete. 100% of all I have talked to that went with Pressure switch had to do an ABS delete and I definitely would not have changed any part of this had I known the 100s of hours and excessive money spent to have a bike with no rear brake. STG should have actually done a ABS bike atleast they could have told us the issues and we could have mitigated the foreseeable failures. Please fix this video.
This video is accurate, used the same process on multiple ABS equipped bikes we have installed brake lines on here with ZERO issues. With that said there are exceptions to every rule as there is certainly more than one ABS system being used today. Like I said via email I am happy to help you get this sorted out. - Van
Popcorn fart level dryness! Too dang funny. Thanks for video, big help, as I'm about to do a stainless braided upgrade. Question, if I have a front GP style brake setup, where only one line goes to the master cylinder, then Y's somewhere above the front tire to both calipers, do I need to have bleeder bags on both calipers at the same time?
Could t you just use the vacuum method to refill and bleed the system? I appreciate you taking the time to do it the manual way though.
Yes you could do it that way. I wanted to show a method anyone could do at home. - Van
Yeah ima just take it to a shop super confusing , ive changed oils, coolants, brake pads, fairings, taillight connectors but this seems the hardest idk why lol
When it comes to the brakes you should take it in if you do not feel comfortable doing it yourself. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear The same way the air comes out, can go back in if done incorrect right?
Great tip with the cable tie holding the brake lever. Is there any time period that is better? Overnight or a few hours? The last bit of air will go to the reservoir and it's perfect. No reason you couldn't do that trick every few months to keep the brakes 100% ?
I like to let it sit overnight if there is enough time. The only time this is worth doing is if you have replaced the brake fluid or had the system opened up for service. - Van
If you have vacuum pump, wouldn't it also be preferable and easier to use to bleed the air out of the system?
That method is another option. End of the day you can get the exact same result with any of the methods we have shown or mentioned. - Van
Thank you
You are welcome and thank you for watching. - Van
Can I do the zip tie thing overnight to get any air bubble out and skip the whole pumping part of my fluid is still good? Thanks
No that will not take the place of bleeding the system. That little trick just helps to ensure you get the best possible lever feel. - Van
I was bleeding a 2015 FJR with a vacuum bleeder and it sucked some air in because the level got to low, the job turned into a miss but thank goodness your old traditional method worked perfect. My question is did this bleed the abs pump or do I need to activate the pump once I have the basic bleeding completed then re-bleed it again? Great video 👍👍
You should be good to go. If you are concerned ride the bike and activate the ABS when it is safe to do so. If there is any air trapped in there this will introduce it into the system and you will just need to bleed it one more time. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear thanks Van, I appreciate your time 👍👍
Can we do the same thing with linked brakes ? Thank you.
Yes, this will work with linked brakes as well. - Van
Interesting but doesn't air end up in the ABS pump and trapped? I work on several motorcycle Mfg's and some suggest NOT to get any air in the ABS pump. If air is in the ABS pump some MFG's will suggest it will need to go to the dealer to be bleed. Also only way the zip tie trick would work is if the ABS pump in below the rear master cylinder brake fluid holder/filling location.
While I am sure there are exceptions to this I have installed brake line kits on numerous ABS equipped bikes and have never had a problem. In my previous life I was a tech at a Cadillac dealer and serviced ABS brakes more times than I can remember now. From BMPV installs to calipers I never ran into an issue. - Van
So it is just the same, but takes longer to fill or refresh because the path it takes is longer? I was a bit hesitate to flush my system, didnt want to end with a not working brake system
That pretty much sums it up. - Van
Thanks for sharing mate,
can you rince the area with water instead of suspension cleaner spray?
Thks again keep it up.😉
You can use a household cleaner like Formula 409 etc... - Van
Hi.. thanks for the tutorial.. i am using kawasaki versys 1000 abs 2013.. abs lights on before start riding (which is normal), after start riding it goes off (also normal).. but after about 100m distance abs light will turn on and stays on, not blinking.. turning off engine and restarted will not solve the problem.. any idea ?
You will need to research how to pull the fault codes from the system so you can diagnose it. This is not a model I have an real experience with. - Van
Hi, just to confirm, the process works the same for dual channel abs?
Yes this will work. - Van
thanks
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
On a bike with abs when bleeding why do I have fluid and NO Air coming out?
Absolutely No Back brakes!
There could be a lot of reasons for this. If you do not have a leak in the system then odds are you still have some air in it. Just keep bleeding as we show here and you should be good. - Van
i spent 3hours pumping the lever on a non abs ..what kind of magic is this ;)
magic is to not introduce air into the system.
@@TheMrJohnnyp nice late reply, and yes i know this, sadly i had done a caliper rebuild
Follow this procedure with linked front/rear brakes on front lever?
The only linked system I have any experience with is the R1 and this worked as expected. - Van
Great video, although I wish you'd included the removal of the old fluid. What vacuum pump did you use?
go watch the brake line instal video.
I typically use my power bleeder to do that. You can also bleed the brakes down to the point where the reservoir is almost empty, then refill with with fresh fluid and continue. This is only an option if the reservoir does not need to be cleaned out. - Van
Hi, thank you for the video. I need to change a defective abs module on my Yamaha MT-03 2017 (same as R3). How do I bleed the ABS module itself?.
All you will need to do is bleed the brake system as shown in this video and you will be good to go. - Van
Could you do a video on what exactly a “popcorn fart” is? 😳💨🥴🤣
Dry like the desert! - Van
“Dry as a popcorn fart…” 😂
Nothing in the world drier than that...
@@sportbiketrackgear this is true bro haha. Unless you include names. Kathy (my ex) is the nastiest. I just shivered now after saying that, holy shit.
Hi I have fz1 2013 model, my abs doesn't work even not showing any error on meter but when ever I connect jumper to diagnoses connector it's shows multiple codes at the time turning on switch and when turn off all lights n codes are gone but problem remain same abs not in working
You will need to take this in to the dealer to have it sorted out. This is not something I would be able to help with over UA-cam comments. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear thanks for your response we don't have dealers here for high performance bikes
When you speak of a "Leak Check", what do you do if you find one of the bleeder valves is leaking or very lightly weeping fluid? Do you torque it tighter? And if so, how much more torque do you apply? I suspect you will be using inch pounds? I ask because, my Service Manual stated 49-inch pounds and that was leaking. 71 inch pounds was weeping. I wound up at my current torque of 75 inch pounds. I don't know what "right" looks like. And if I keep torqueing until the bleeder valve is "tight", can that be over-torqueing the bleeder valve or causing any damage to the calipers internal design?
I would suggest replacing that bleeder screw. They should seal with minimal torque as they are a tapered seat screw. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear Will do. And oddly enough, the current bleed valve I am using did not have any thread sealant on it. My new one ordered from Kawasaki does. I am hoping the new bleed valve will seat properly and seal off any weeping fluid. If not, it must be an issue with the Master Cylinder or the threads inside the master cylinder itself. BTW, Jack is helping me find the correct Speed Bleeders for my application.
I have ABS linked brakes on my 600f, is it still same principle? Guessing it is?
This process should work well on your bike. - Van
If chaning to braied so must change in abs pump to?
why not use the vacuum pump with a gauge. Bleeds the abs modulator brake pump and calipers to the oem spec. when the abs modulator is activated the pressure in the system must be the correct one, otherwise it doesn't work. I have a BMW and that's what the dealer does. tests the whole system under all conditions to the correct psi.
Any pitfall of doing the reverse bleed instead?
I would stick with the process we show in this video. This will get you the results you need and it is easy to do. - Van
dry as a popcorn fart LMAO
Drier than any desert my man! - Van
When you do the Zip-tie trick and the air comes over night to the lever (in my example it was so much I had no lever anymore). What is the best way to get that air out? Do you think it just goes to the reservoir or keep bleeding at the Master Cylinder ?
The zip tie trick will only be effective if you already have a reasonable lever. In your case it sounds like you need to continue bleeding or you may possibly have a problem in the system. - Van
1 litter fluid is enough for cleaning only front calipers?
500 ml (US pint) is more than enough to bleed the front brakes. - Van