here's the build footage for those that want to see how its made: ua-cam.com/video/LTCLy84BlOs/v-deo.html Also, I want to note that the mini 14 shoots the .223, not the 5.56. Although similar, the .223 doesn't push as fast or hot as the 5.56. and the mini 14 only has a 16in barrel as well. more to come soon!
The pistol rated shield needed a couple layers on the backside of the shield. If it had 2 to 3 layers wrapped around the back, the poly shattering would have absorbed energy without the spaling.
It’s a shame how few subs and views you get dude. I love your ballistic experiments. I never would have thought homemade armor could be that effective! Great work!
I have to be honest, I just stumbled across your channel. I love it. I’m sharing it with close friends and family members so hopefully we can get your subs and views up. Very well done for a low-budget, authentic video! Hats off to you sir, and I look forward to more content.
It's interesting that people often erroneously call bullet fragmentation "spall" when discussing steel body armor, but these shields' polycarbonate layers were actually spalling (fragmentation of the armor itself coming from the side opposite the strike face). I'm surprised that the polycarbonate was brittle when shot but not when bent during the formation of the shields. Excited to see further developments!
Watching with great interest! I have polycarbonate sheet, porcelain floor tiles, fibre glass weave & epoxy resin. Now all I need to procure is a day when I'm not working & I'll be messing around with these designs. Big thanks to you for all your experiments. Cheers!
When layering your fiber sheet layers it will help if you use a vacuum bagging technique this will pull bubbles out from between the layers making it stronger. If you use a peel layer on the outside this will wick away any pools of adhesive during the vacuum bagging making it lighter. Vacuum bagging might get your plates denser and possibly thinner.
I love your builds! Great work as always. I've been thinking a lot about armor ideas and watching different plates get tested. I think if you cut small squares or other shapes that fill space like triangles or hexagons, and put those behind HDPE, you could get better multi hit capability. Also, besides bolting on handles, some sort of padded layer near the back could stop the spauling by preventing the energy transfer. This might hold together better. Still a great experiment and thanks for the footage!
regarding the levels: .223/ 5.56x45 is RF1 for the M193, and 357mag is nij II (IIA is for 9x19). so, you made NIJ II and RF1 standalone shields. wich, tbh, isn't bad at all for the V2, put the PC before the composite (to exploit the PC's failure mode, since it makes wide plugs, and composites are great at catching wide and slow stuff), and pierce it to bolt the handles to it before sticking the strike face to it, and you ll get something more efficient :D
I recommend adding a 1 inch layer of hdpe between the polycarbonate and fiber glass to improve ballistics, and also adding rhino liner to the front and edge to help seal it.
Bit of advice. Be sure to wear personal protective equipment while you’re handling epoxy and resins. Long term exposure to the chemicals causes severe health issues. I want you to live long so you can continue to make awesome projects.
This is great. Your ceramic shield is almost identical what has become my standard plates. I use 2 layers of ceramic and 16 layers of fiberglass backer when possible and wrap it all in a layer of fiber glass to stop the spall works out to 18 layers behind the ceramic and one in front. I think there is something to be said for the size of the ceramic plate. I tried tiny hexagons on helmets to no avail seems like the plate needs to be big enough to shred the bullet.
10:48 what about layers of kevlar/aramid in a soft-armor configuration behind the polycarbonate? it could help "catch" polycarbonate that comes through as a plug rather then helping shed velocity. could also be an opportunity for a "chobham"-style sandwich of variable density materials like is used in US Level IV ceramic body armor plates and M1A2 and later main battle tanks. Also, testing note on porcelain, it bleeds energy by distributing it across the face of the rock. the less rock available to distribute the shock before breaking, the more likely it is to fail.
Would a strike face consisting of smaller conjoined plates similar to Lamellar increase the multi hit capability through controlled breakage? I imagine any intact smaller plates could be salvaged for future builds. Then again maybe that might just compromise the entire thing instead.
My understanding of how plastics slow/stop a bullet is that the fast, hot bullet melts the plastic. As the bullet slows, the heated plastic rapidly cools. So if the polycarb is on the back, the bullet may be slow/cool enough to just break it instead of the aforementioned process. Im dure it being old doesn't help
Love your work! I'm looking for a shield since most homes aren't bulletproof and national and world events aren't improving. My suggestions are that you make a shape similar to RTS Tactical's shield but bigger. It gives you a place to rest your weapon with the most coverage of your head and body. 24 in wide with a head area about 14 in wide by 8 in deep. Then the total depth from head to waist could be 24-32 in. I also thought that it could be made 4 ft long or have a second plate that could be attached with quick release buckles or locking bar to achieve complete coverage from a kneeling position. I like Evan Saw's idea of wrapping a layer of kevlar around the ceramic plate, too. And that could also hold the handle on better. I think there should be ambi handles, too. I don't know if you did this but the seam between the ceramic should be reinforced. And, lastly, LAPG makes a ceramic and UHMWPE plate. Maybe add a layer of UHMWPE to the shield instead of polycarbonate? Keep up the great work!
8 months since the car project man. I have such high hopes for it; it could make your channel more mainstream, and would be an awesome watch. Any chance we'll see another episode?
Thanks brother! Also, I just started following your work! Man, you make some amazing stuff. I was thinking of uploading some of my early sugar rocket builds on here, just for a laugh. My stuff looked like the north Korean missle tests kek. I'll be sure to pick up some of your books, I kinda want a launcher for the top of my jeep now haha
@@Techthisoutmeow thanks mate! And I would love to see those ! Keep up the good work, if I do DIY armor your channel is my number one spot for information
here's the build footage for those that want to see how its made: ua-cam.com/video/LTCLy84BlOs/v-deo.html Also, I want to note that the mini 14 shoots the .223, not the 5.56. Although similar, the .223 doesn't push as fast or hot as the 5.56. and the mini 14 only has a 16in barrel as well. more to come soon!
The pistol rated shield needed a couple layers on the backside of the shield. If it had 2 to 3 layers wrapped around the back, the poly shattering would have absorbed energy without the spaling.
It’s a shame how few subs and views you get dude. I love your ballistic experiments. I never would have thought homemade armor could be that effective! Great work!
Thanks brother, I'm starting to get more views, so lets hope we can get some ground soon!
UA-cam unsubscribed me TWICE now.
@@pauliewalnuts5241 don't you love that they do that? It's happend to me a few times.
I have to be honest, I just stumbled across your channel. I love it. I’m sharing it with close friends and family members so hopefully we can get your subs and views up. Very well done for a low-budget, authentic video! Hats off to you sir, and I look forward to more content.
UA-cam doesn't like this stuff, and recommends it much much less. Make sure to share with friends :)
Had the strange feeling you were an orthobro, God bless!
It's interesting that people often erroneously call bullet fragmentation "spall" when discussing steel body armor, but these shields' polycarbonate layers were actually spalling (fragmentation of the armor itself coming from the side opposite the strike face). I'm surprised that the polycarbonate was brittle when shot but not when bent during the formation of the shields. Excited to see further developments!
Watching with great interest! I have polycarbonate sheet, porcelain floor tiles, fibre glass weave & epoxy resin. Now all I need to procure is a day when I'm not working & I'll be messing around with these designs. Big thanks to you for all your experiments. Cheers!
When layering your fiber sheet layers it will help if you use a vacuum bagging technique this will pull bubbles out from between the layers making it stronger. If you use a peel layer on the outside this will wick away any pools of adhesive during the vacuum bagging making it lighter. Vacuum bagging might get your plates denser and possibly thinner.
I love your builds! Great work as always. I've been thinking a lot about armor ideas and watching different plates get tested.
I think if you cut small squares or other shapes that fill space like triangles or hexagons, and put those behind HDPE, you could get better multi hit capability.
Also, besides bolting on handles, some sort of padded layer near the back could stop the spauling by preventing the energy transfer. This might hold together better.
Still a great experiment and thanks for the footage!
regarding the levels: .223/ 5.56x45 is RF1 for the M193, and 357mag is nij II (IIA is for 9x19).
so, you made NIJ II and RF1 standalone shields. wich, tbh, isn't bad at all
for the V2, put the PC before the composite (to exploit the PC's failure mode, since it makes wide plugs, and composites are great at catching wide and slow stuff), and pierce it to bolt the handles to it before sticking the strike face to it, and you ll get something more efficient :D
I recommend adding a 1 inch layer of hdpe between the polycarbonate and fiber glass to improve ballistics, and also adding rhino liner to the front and edge to help seal it.
Let's not forget about the father that supports his son through thick and thin shields.
I wonder if that was plexiglass and not polycarbonate. Plexiglass usually shatters and Polycarbonate usually blisters, & deforms.
Bit of advice.
Be sure to wear personal protective equipment while you’re handling epoxy and resins.
Long term exposure to the chemicals causes severe health issues.
I want you to live long so you can continue to make awesome projects.
This is great. Your ceramic shield is almost identical what has become my standard plates. I use 2 layers of ceramic and 16 layers of fiberglass backer when possible and wrap it all in a layer of fiber glass to stop the spall works out to 18 layers behind the ceramic and one in front.
I think there is something to be said for the size of the ceramic plate. I tried tiny hexagons on helmets to no avail seems like the plate needs to be big enough to shred the bullet.
if you're going to make a version 2, might I suggest standard 10x13 curved plates
it'll let you experiment with curved molds
10:48 what about layers of kevlar/aramid in a soft-armor configuration behind the polycarbonate? it could help "catch" polycarbonate that comes through as a plug rather then helping shed velocity. could also be an opportunity for a "chobham"-style sandwich of variable density materials like is used in US Level IV ceramic body armor plates and M1A2 and later main battle tanks.
Also, testing note on porcelain, it bleeds energy by distributing it across the face of the rock. the less rock available to distribute the shock before breaking, the more likely it is to fail.
Great job Man!!!
Always awesome ideas!
im so invested in this journey
Would a strike face consisting of smaller conjoined plates similar to Lamellar increase the multi hit capability through controlled breakage? I imagine any intact smaller plates could be salvaged for future builds. Then again maybe that might just compromise the entire thing instead.
My understanding of how plastics slow/stop a bullet is that the fast, hot bullet melts the plastic. As the bullet slows, the heated plastic rapidly cools.
So if the polycarb is on the back, the bullet may be slow/cool enough to just break it instead of the aforementioned process. Im dure it being old doesn't help
Maybe the first layer be 1/4 steel to help slow the bullet down first.. perhaps heat treated?
Are you sure its polycarbonate? Its acting like acrylic shattering like that
You should try using UHMWPE, which is a Polyethylene used for blast shields.
Anxiously awaiting 2.0!
Love your work! I'm looking for a shield since most homes aren't bulletproof and national and world events aren't improving. My suggestions are that you make a shape similar to RTS Tactical's shield but bigger. It gives you a place to rest your weapon with the most coverage of your head and body. 24 in wide with a head area about 14 in wide by 8 in deep. Then the total depth from head to waist could be 24-32 in. I also thought that it could be made 4 ft long or have a second plate that could be attached with quick release buckles or locking bar to achieve complete coverage from a kneeling position. I like Evan Saw's idea of wrapping a layer of kevlar around the ceramic plate, too. And that could also hold the handle on better. I think there should be ambi handles, too. I don't know if you did this but the seam between the ceramic should be reinforced. And, lastly, LAPG makes a ceramic and UHMWPE plate. Maybe add a layer of UHMWPE to the shield instead of polycarbonate? Keep up the great work!
Should have tried few hits back facing front too. Since the impact is breaking it apart before the bullet hits it.
Probably not going make much difference but still.
8 months since the car project man.
I have such high hopes for it; it could make your channel more mainstream, and would be an awesome watch.
Any chance we'll see another episode?
I'm curious what would happen if the layers were reversed (shot from the back).
Great work!
Thanks brother! Also, I just started following your work! Man, you make some amazing stuff. I was thinking of uploading some of my early sugar rocket builds on here, just for a laugh. My stuff looked like the north Korean missle tests kek. I'll be sure to pick up some of your books, I kinda want a launcher for the top of my jeep now haha
@@Techthisoutmeow thanks mate! And I would love to see those ! Keep up the good work, if I do DIY armor your channel is my number one spot for information
With this combo I wish you had access to boron carbide and kevlar. I think none of these rounds would've gone through.
nice!
Good stuff!
Thanks brother, more to come soon!
I think the poreclin might have been destroyed by the time the 7.62 rounds were tested.
This is a problem with large plates of porcelain ...
This was great!
Wow
I know I was subscribed to your channel and following for a long while now noticed I was unsubscribed by UA-cam...
That longer barrel of the 44mag is much faster then so your test gun is wrong .
I would love to see you featured on demo ranch message him send him something to shoot I'm sure a shout out would help a ton
Just saying I'd love to see some home made armor stop all of his 50 cals
@@everydaylivinglife1753 I myself am working on .50 BMG resistant armor. But it will be a year until I've got my hands on all of the materials.
I am shocked at the amount of subscribers 😳, I think YT is playing
44Mag at 210% of NIJ is a completely different animal.
Shooting at ortodox simbols 😣
Comment for the algorithm.
I HATE THE ANTICHRIST