I love this channel so much. I live in a bad neighborhood and was trying to figure out how to bulletproof the wall behind my newborn's crib. This is great
Wow, sorry to hear your in a place where your newborn might be in danger. I'm glad this might help you in bulletproofing a wall! you can message me on my discord if you have any questions.
Its really crazy how much work and experimenting goes into these diy plates. While some people are going for full lv4 plates others are building flexible or light
Thanks, I try to always aim for lighter, thinner, cheaper. All the while trying to stop the biggest meanest rounds. One day I'll have a full suit, and it'll be light and reliable.
Pretty cool stuff! What I would be interested in is comfortable to wear (meaning soft and flexible) IIIA or II armor that can be a jacket liner. Something that deals with the popular pistol rounds. Something that is stealth.
I think you could achieve this with a similar method. Or you could go another route I've tried before. Have you ever heard of elastomers? Like polyurethane or urethane resins? Things like that are often quite flexible, and can be laminated with.
@@Techthisoutmeow I'm sort of familiar with urethane resins. I know they don't like water when you mix them. They also have a short shelf life. At least the stuff FiberBlast sells is like that.
@@greta11666 it worked good. But it was slow as I could only add small amounts of shredded jugs at a time. Probably better for making small project slabs than for armor.
@@zell9058 I was looking on Amazon and they have industrial heat press machines I think might work they go as high as 400f , usually for t-shirts but seems like some of them have pressure amount applied changed, etc which work quicker than an oven.
Thanks so much for doing this and sharing your methods/results with the world. This could really help a lot of people who can't afford even the cheaper body armor that's out there.
The Tommies and Poilu had bibles, we have walmart bags. Amazing video, though it seems more like a test of porcelain with a fiberglass backing than HDPE. I'd be interested to see how many layers of HDPE it takes to stop a bullet, no heating and just some duct tape keeping them together.
stopping the 7.62x54R FMJ (wich has simialar mass, diameter and velocity as .308) would make this plate comparable to NIJ III standard, so, that's very good
Right! And being able to stop so many m855, and almost stopping the steel ball 7.62x54r is nuts. Also these are light enough you could throw some steel or aluminum in there for good measure lol, because I know you want to.
@@Techthisoutmeow indeed. a metal layer beetween the ceramic and the composite would improove it's performance. i wonder how much mild steel could be added before reaching the weight limit (as mild steel is cheap, common, and aivable everywhere) like, maybe a 1/16 or a 1/8 thick layer could bring some improvments
Awsome projects im curious if the first method would make a decent bump cap. As i looks to be more flexible. Im working on recycling some milk jugs to make some knee pad caps and shin guards. This channel has given me a lot of ideas. Keep up the good work.
That's awesome man! Glad I could help. And yeah, the first plate was far more flexible than the rest, kinda like light lamination vs a heavier one. The content of hdpe in the composite as well as the flexibility of the fabric your working with effects the overall ability to bend this stuff. Well, that and the amount of layers used. I'm still working on full flexible rifle rated stuff.
Love the video and I got a bunch of ideas for putting together plates. I thought it was funny to see you and I had the same mindset for this concept as I posted a comment on the previous video you did and you said I'd be surprised with seeing this video as it was already in the works. Great minds think alike as they say, lol. I just watched a video from Kentucky Ballistics where he was shooting Stretch Armstrong action figures and one figure was capable of stopping 9mm, 10mm and .44 magnum HP rounds. Was curious if you had looked into the material that makes up these stretch figures because I have a feeling it would make for a great trauma plate to help absorption of the impact as well as help catch fragments and further increase the ballistic resistance. Just an idea, but I love your videos.
I was just about to click away as I just saw another "home made" body armor video. But, once you said you stopped a 7.62X54 I decided to stay. Great video.
I saw it mentioned in the comments, but a stiffer backing layer behind the ceramic could make a big difference. I read in a declassified military test that aluminum was preferred over steel for this from a weight efficiency perspective. I wonder if a relatively thick single piece of acrylic could work well if you want to completely avoid metal
Have you tried newspaper in portland cement? I've seen it mixed into a slurry, aerated, formed into blocks and used as lightweight building material able to stop bullets. I have to wonder if layers of cement-soaked newspaper sheets might work well for plates, too.
Huh, never heard of that method before! I've done some experiments with hard clay plaster type mixer and coco coir as a reinforcement. I'll have to see if I can find anything on the topic your talking about. Thanks for the suggestion
I purchased small Aluminum Oxide plates (17mm x 22mm x 1mm) and coated them in flex seal to help shattering when dropped. I then wrapped them in duct tape and placed them onto my HDPE plate. The tiles are very small as you can see and I was wondering if having these tiles very small will help with big shattered areas when being shot. The problem with most ceramic plates is that the tiles are usually big and once shattered, that area is compramised and won't do as well if another round comes through that area. I haven't brough my plate out to the range yet to test my hypothesis but was wondering if you gave this any thought. Also, the cermaic is really only there to shatter the bullet, making it easier for the rest of the vest to absorb the shattered fragments that each carry less energy than the original whole round. Was wondering if you really needed a thick layer of ceramic like most commercial plates or if a thin 1-2 layes of ceramic would suffice to shattering the bullet while the rest of the plate past the ceramic will pick up the rest. Ideally I'd like to have 2 layers of these small ceramic tiles floating in a impact resistant rubbery compound as to help with tile shattering after impact, then place a thin layer of HDPE over the ceramic to help slow down the initial impact. Then after the ceramic tile layer, once the bullet is in fragments, you'll have HDPE layered with Kevlar, Fiberglass or some sort of bullet resistant fabric. You could also work in a thin layer of metal like aluminum since it is light to help stop that last 5-10% of energy. I find a combination of lightweight materials layered in the proper sequence will help stop bullets better than just a bunch of 1-2 items. The aluminum doesnt't have to be thicker than 1/16th of an inch or even a thin flexible sheet of steel could work as well, long as it is light and flexible. Hope maybe some of these ideas of mine will help you on your journey or maybe strike an idea of your own.
I had the same hypothesis myself. If you had a bigger budget using a few thin layers of more expensive materials like aluminum sheets or even a few metal screen/ mesh sheets combined with kevlar/carbon layers mixed in with the cheaper materials would be relatively inexpensive way to create light weight bullet resistant materials. Designing the front facing layers as smaller tiles that shattered independently and can easily be replaced is also a great idea.
I love seeing the progression. I'm interested to hear/see from others what results they get from their own application and refinement. It was cool to hear about Scotty taking the base idea and running with it to win a competition. Maybe Tech this out Meow should host one. Oh, I love the ending with the look on your face when someone says you need to aim a little lower, lol!
@@Techthisoutmeow HI GUYS !! FYI = I was able to buy stacks of grocery bags in the box ,500 and 1,000 count by going to the stores and asking to buy a box or two from them just the way they buy them from the manufacture , about $25 and $ 40 a box , PS , If I can get bags like this , is there any point in collecting milk jugs any more , are the bags better than the jugs !??? thanks.
your fiberglass cloth layers, try every other layer turned 45 degrees. another maybe helpful, get some fiberglass window screen mesh in there, also layering at alternating 45 degree angles. instead of pulling/spreading 4 directions (+) it'll spread 8 (+X) that may go a long way for more strength from less thickness and weight. edit: may also be possible the window screen mesh laid at 45's is better, easier for the HDPE to fully saturate between all the cross stacked fibers?
17:00 Why would you be afraid of the fiberglass shifting? I would think a more randomized fibreglass stacking pattern would provide better impact resistance. Did you test a randomized pattern?
about time you showed up lol. Thanks for suggesting this project brother! it worked great. and yeah, I don't think you would have any problems with delamination once you got the hdpe melted into the fibers, so if you wanted make some thin plates and reform them into different shapes later I don't see that being a problem.
Left a comment on the last video to about using garbage bags. Thanks, glad to see it's all working and to see your channel doing so well. Congrats brother. Got a question about bullet resistant film for glass, does it stick to other materials. The price would go up but could a final wrap of the plastic bag plates be done with the film, or separately could you apply it to a thin piece of aluminium and have it have a positive effect. The piece that I'm mentally workshopping is thin alum treadplate followed by a rubber layer, ceramic tiles and then up to 1/2 inch of the plastic and fiberglass. For aesthetic reasons I'd like the aluminium facing out, but I know that's generally a no no for armor. Would a thin weak metal like aluminum cause the same issues as steel or iron in the front. If you can reform the plates maybe you could do a guy fawkes mask 2.0. Again thanks and great job
omgggg , Bro its wonderfull i think , ım kadir from istanbul turkey ,, I working rd engineer for armoured car and your things are very good , lets go to continued .... congrculations
The final plates using painters plastic hdpe would be close to the same thickness of milk jug hdpe, so yeah, should work great! I think if you cut it into strips and later it you would get a similar result, might even be a bit better. I haven't fully dialed in how much hdpe is needed in-between the layers of composite fabric yet, but this could be an interesting test. Thanks for the suggestion
Greetings sir. I'm really astonished by your evolution, since taofledermaus tests! I want to build a plate for my backpack, to avoid pistol shots in case of being shot by a mugger on the streets. What would be the ideal composition of Fiber Glass and hdpe bags?
ok, don't get me wrong, i love the builds. but plate #4, chest plate size, would have about $60-$100 worth of kevlar in it. WAAAAY doesn't qualify as recycled hdpe. price wise. cheap ceramic though, is brilliant, price wise. what i'm really baffled by, is the apparent lack of resin. are you using the hdpe microthin layers, as a form of resin? by melting it, in the oven? i do skip around in videos, a bit, so, sorry if i missed that. also, it seems like in a previous video, the one leading to this one, you discovered the power of compression, by the fiberglass layer, being "wrapped", around the block of hdpe. have you ever thought of wrapping the entire edge of these new ones, like maybe several times, with some sort of fiberglass "tape" ? lastly, since the previous video was kind of a precursor, it doesn't seem too off topic to ask a few questions. did you ever shoot the simple hdpe and fiberglass one with any kind of rifle round? or did you just consider the double ought buckshot a quicker way than with the 223? 😄 and did you ever try a piece of tile with it? like maybe in between the front layers of fiberglass? and does anyone ever put like just 1mm of metal on the very back, to kind of simulate vehicle body panels? i know you're mostly designing with body armor in mind, but the exact same principles and needs could apply to vehicles. ok, not that you could put one in the oven, but, back to resin?
Your tests interest me. Have you ever considered doing some anti-spall experiments? I was thinking that polycarbonate may be a good option. Maybe formed around the plate with thin, steel or aluminum flanges on the sides. Seems like the fabric sleeves only take one or two hits before spall gets bad. I feel like polycarbonate is lighter and can absorb the fragments better.
For sure! the lumat I used for one of the plates is also an aramid like kevlar, just not as strong. Kevlar would would out preform these plates, in both strength and weight. The only down side to that stuff is it's cost, just like PBO fabrics. but hey, if you can afford it go for it!
Instead of using those Irwin clamps (they really are pretty weak) Get some Althread rod in a decent size and some thick Ply like you used in your early molds. Make yourself a very manly flower press.. the clamp force will be much higher and can then be consistently applied with a torque wrench if you so desire such consistency (for something you may be trusting your life to..) Should still be able to do all this on the cheap from your local big box hardware (Probably cheaper than 4 Irwin clamps, at least where I live)
I remember seeing something similar on another channel, would rotating the fiberglass in between layers make it stronger? I'll post the other video in the replies. It didn't stop 5.56, but it uses a similar principle to your video.
@@MrFives55 ah yes, ZNA. Great video, inspired alot of people to use fiberglass welding blanket for ballistic plates, mainly because of cost. Another good source for cheap strong fiberglass is woven roving, most of my vehicle armor will be made out of that stuff! And to answer your question yes, 45° rotation of the composite increases breaking strength, however you do end up using more fabric to cut it. After my first run of SAPI plates is finished I'll dive into that topic more, along with proper tile arays. Thanks for bringing it up!
I do have a few! So I bought some hard hats, thinking I could build off them. So yeah, I have a few ideas. We shall see what the time I have to work on that soon.
What results do you think you would get from simply ironing layer on layer of plastic? Do you think it would act more like your milk jug blocks or would it maintain some laminate properties?
So why not a polycarbonate facer and then the buildup of PE and fiberglass. Or a sandwich of polycarbonate front and rear with a core of PE/fiber? The polycarbonate is a lot lighter than the tikes and much less prone to shattering so a second close hit still hits resistance vs the tile where a close hit hits nothing but dust.
two things , You can buy the plastic store bags from the grocery stores, in bulk , They have then hanging on racks that hold then for loading your food into at check out , they came stacked in thick stacks to hang on the racks !! AND !!! Did you do the video using the solid blocks of plastic ??
How much did it cost for one of these plates? I was looking up prices and realized either my math is off, or by the time I’d finish layering it would be $150 for a square foot
Late reply, but I think your math being off is more likely. The welding blankets last time I checked are about $30 for a 6x8. The painters plastic is about $25 per roll. And the porcelain floor tiles are about $1 to $2 depending on how many tiles you need for the strike face. So I'd say realistically for a square foot it should be about $57 to $60, which is dirt cheap considering most real 3+ ceramic plates are like what a few hundred dollars or more depending on how much you want to make your wallet cry. I believe the lighter commercial ceramic plates are more expensive than the heavier ones. I could be wrong though, so don't quote me on that.
That video was amazing!!! It's really hard to wrap my mind around how the 38 special barely dented the first simple plate at just 1/4" thick. Quick question, how does a "40 Smith and Wesson" compare to a 9mm or 45 acp or 357 mag for penetration. The 40 Smith and Wesson is one I haven't seen on your channel. Just curious.
@@DavidSmith-vz9uu about like hot 9mil. It carries more energy but has more frontal area. On a round for round basis more terminal effect but no more armor penatration
You need to check out Jackal Mountain videos on spaced armor. Thin multi layers of hardened steel (saw blades) robbing 5.56/7.62x39 of their energy. Im betting a combination of what youre doing and the thin light hardened steel would solve a lot of your issues with proper layering.
I tested this out by the way. If you want I could put the videos up for you to see. Long story short it took 4 saw blades to stop a 5.56 and at that point it was pretty heavy
All the hdpe together would be better cause that’s how hdpe works as the bullet hits it it starts to melt but cools fast grabbing onto the bullet stoping it.
If it had a double PEI 5 Porcelain strike face in front of HDPE/Fiberglass matrix composite... then yes, probably. I doubt Civil Defense 9x19 mm @ 2,000 FPS or even a .500 S&W Magnum would go through it.
You place them the length of the penetrator (tip of bullet to tail of penetrator min.) Appart in the stack so tile one takes the jacket and the second takes on the penetrator
I call it two stage energy reduction in your plate with the two ceramics tight to eachother they both experience the full energy of the round but separated the secound one would face an exponentially slower and deformed round now the remaining layers only need to slow what energy is left over after the second stage. My thereory then is provided both plates have the same overall thickness the two stage one should stop the same round with less deformation
I love this channel so much. I live in a bad neighborhood and was trying to figure out how to bulletproof the wall behind my newborn's crib. This is great
Wow, sorry to hear your in a place where your newborn might be in danger. I'm glad this might help you in bulletproofing a wall! you can message me on my discord if you have any questions.
Bulletproof bib 👍
For stationary like that, thick steel. Cheap, easy, effective. Heavy, but you only move it once.
Sad you have too, but you are the coolest Dad/Mom ever.
I hope you and your family stay safe be healthy.
Its really crazy how much work and experimenting goes into these diy plates. While some people are going for full lv4 plates others are building flexible or light
Thanks, I try to always aim for lighter, thinner, cheaper. All the while trying to stop the biggest meanest rounds. One day I'll have a full suit, and it'll be light and reliable.
@@Techthisoutmeow remember, no russian
By far this is the one of the best videos on this channel and that's saying a lot. You're really saving lives here
Thanks brother, more to come!
You know who would be a good tester for these? Matt! He loves the home made body armor! (Demolition Ranch)
Pretty cool stuff!
What I would be interested in is comfortable to wear (meaning soft and flexible) IIIA or II armor that can be a jacket liner. Something that deals with the popular pistol rounds. Something that is stealth.
I think you could achieve this with a similar method. Or you could go another route I've tried before. Have you ever heard of elastomers? Like polyurethane or urethane resins? Things like that are often quite flexible, and can be laminated with.
I'll see if I can dig some earlier tests I've done on the topic and add it to an update video I'm working on!
@@Techthisoutmeow I'm sort of familiar with urethane resins. I know they don't like water when you mix them. They also have a short shelf life. At least the stuff FiberBlast sells is like that.
Great to see a new video! Now more than ever does the public need to know about homemade body armor.
Sad but true, the world is crazier than I remember, or maybe I'm just noticing things more now.
Going to try this out
I made my first hdpe brick yesterday with a thrift store panini press.
Haha now that's innovation! Will you be testing the plate out soon? If so let me know how it goes!
I was thinking the same with a panini press or a t-shirt press instead of oven.
Btw, how did the panini press work?
@@greta11666 it worked good. But it was slow as I could only add small amounts of shredded jugs at a time. Probably better for making small project slabs than for armor.
@@zell9058 I was looking on Amazon and they have industrial heat press machines I think might work they go as high as 400f , usually for t-shirts but seems like some of them have pressure amount applied changed, etc which work quicker than an oven.
Something you may consider, move the ceramic a couple layers into the laminate. And possibly a thin layer of hardened steel sheet to the outside.
Glad to see you’re still working at this bro, good job well done.
Appreciate it brother! You'll have to come out shooting with me some time!
Thanks so much for doing this and sharing your methods/results with the world. This could really help a lot of people who can't afford even the cheaper body armor that's out there.
Good shit man i wish i found your channel sooner.
Thanks brother, more to come soon!
The Tommies and Poilu had bibles, we have walmart bags. Amazing video, though it seems more like a test of porcelain with a fiberglass backing than HDPE. I'd be interested to see how many layers of HDPE it takes to stop a bullet, no heating and just some duct tape keeping them together.
Good to see you back
Thanks brother! Got some fun stuff lined up these next few weeks and months, if all goes according to plan. Should have even more content soon!
stopping the 7.62x54R FMJ (wich has simialar mass, diameter and velocity as .308) would make this plate comparable to NIJ III standard, so, that's very good
Right! And being able to stop so many m855, and almost stopping the steel ball 7.62x54r is nuts. Also these are light enough you could throw some steel or aluminum in there for good measure lol, because I know you want to.
@@Techthisoutmeow indeed. a metal layer beetween the ceramic and the composite would improove it's performance. i wonder how much mild steel could be added before reaching the weight limit (as mild steel is cheap, common, and aivable everywhere) like, maybe a 1/16 or a 1/8 thick layer could bring some improvments
Very professional video. Well done on your production.
What about using t-shirt heat transfer laminating press.
Have you tried it?
Awsome projects im curious if the first method would make a decent bump cap. As i looks to be more flexible. Im working on recycling some milk jugs to make some knee pad caps and shin guards. This channel has given me a lot of ideas. Keep up the good work.
That's awesome man! Glad I could help. And yeah, the first plate was far more flexible than the rest, kinda like light lamination vs a heavier one. The content of hdpe in the composite as well as the flexibility of the fabric your working with effects the overall ability to bend this stuff. Well, that and the amount of layers used. I'm still working on full flexible rifle rated stuff.
Seems like a pretty much ideal use for HDPE.
Love the video and I got a bunch of ideas for putting together plates. I thought it was funny to see you and I had the same mindset for this concept as I posted a comment on the previous video you did and you said I'd be surprised with seeing this video as it was already in the works. Great minds think alike as they say, lol. I just watched a video from Kentucky Ballistics where he was shooting Stretch Armstrong action figures and one figure was capable of stopping 9mm, 10mm and .44 magnum HP rounds. Was curious if you had looked into the material that makes up these stretch figures because I have a feeling it would make for a great trauma plate to help absorption of the impact as well as help catch fragments and further increase the ballistic resistance. Just an idea, but I love your videos.
I was just about to click away as I just saw another "home made" body armor video. But, once you said you stopped a 7.62X54 I decided to stay. Great video.
That was awesome! Great stopping power!
Lol thanks mom, glad you liked it. Did you enjoy dad giving me a hard time at the very end?
I saw it mentioned in the comments, but a stiffer backing layer behind the ceramic could make a big difference. I read in a declassified military test that aluminum was preferred over steel for this from a weight efficiency perspective.
I wonder if a relatively thick single piece of acrylic could work well if you want to completely avoid metal
Polycarbonate probably works better than acrylic as acrylic tends to crack under high stress.
@@marcusfuckingwebb yeah, but acrylic is stiffer and harder than polycarbonate.
Have you tried newspaper in portland cement? I've seen it mixed into a slurry, aerated, formed into blocks and used as lightweight building material able to stop bullets. I have to wonder if layers of cement-soaked newspaper sheets might work well for plates, too.
Huh, never heard of that method before! I've done some experiments with hard clay plaster type mixer and coco coir as a reinforcement. I'll have to see if I can find anything on the topic your talking about. Thanks for the suggestion
I purchased small Aluminum Oxide plates (17mm x 22mm x 1mm) and coated them in flex seal to help shattering when dropped. I then wrapped them in duct tape and placed them onto my HDPE plate. The tiles are very small as you can see and I was wondering if having these tiles very small will help with big shattered areas when being shot. The problem with most ceramic plates is that the tiles are usually big and once shattered, that area is compramised and won't do as well if another round comes through that area. I haven't brough my plate out to the range yet to test my hypothesis but was wondering if you gave this any thought. Also, the cermaic is really only there to shatter the bullet, making it easier for the rest of the vest to absorb the shattered fragments that each carry less energy than the original whole round. Was wondering if you really needed a thick layer of ceramic like most commercial plates or if a thin 1-2 layes of ceramic would suffice to shattering the bullet while the rest of the plate past the ceramic will pick up the rest. Ideally I'd like to have 2 layers of these small ceramic tiles floating in a impact resistant rubbery compound as to help with tile shattering after impact, then place a thin layer of HDPE over the ceramic to help slow down the initial impact. Then after the ceramic tile layer, once the bullet is in fragments, you'll have HDPE layered with Kevlar, Fiberglass or some sort of bullet resistant fabric. You could also work in a thin layer of metal like aluminum since it is light to help stop that last 5-10% of energy. I find a combination of lightweight materials layered in the proper sequence will help stop bullets better than just a bunch of 1-2 items. The aluminum doesnt't have to be thicker than 1/16th of an inch or even a thin flexible sheet of steel could work as well, long as it is light and flexible. Hope maybe some of these ideas of mine will help you on your journey or maybe strike an idea of your own.
I had the same hypothesis myself. If you had a bigger budget using a few thin layers of more expensive materials like aluminum sheets or even a few metal screen/ mesh sheets combined with kevlar/carbon layers mixed in with the cheaper materials would be relatively inexpensive way to create light weight bullet resistant materials. Designing the front facing layers as smaller tiles that shattered independently and can easily be replaced is also a great idea.
We may need this knowledge in America in 2022 😳
I love seeing the progression. I'm interested to hear/see from others what results they get from their own application and refinement. It was cool to hear about Scotty taking the base idea and running with it to win a competition. Maybe Tech this out Meow should host one. Oh, I love the ending with the look on your face when someone says you need to aim a little lower, lol!
Thanks for all the shooting Larry! you're the true hero of the story lol.
@@Techthisoutmeow HI GUYS !! FYI = I was able to buy stacks of grocery bags in the box ,500 and 1,000 count by going to the stores and asking to buy a box or two from them just the way they buy them from the manufacture , about $25 and $ 40 a box , PS , If I can get bags like this , is there any point in collecting milk jugs any more , are the bags better than the jugs !??? thanks.
Looks like my Walmart will be experiencing a shortage of grocery bags soon... 😉
Lol anything for the cause, don't forget to double bag.
Yeah sometimes the bags stick together when you pull them and a whole stack comes loose. oops!
@@collinE83 gosh I hate when that happens, ah well what are you gonna do. ( inserts huge stack of bags into other bag)
P l a e t: sponsored by K r ø g e r
Lol on the 12x10s I'm going to add an outside bag layer, just so I can get a deal lol. I love the idea of a Walmart bag, or a piggly wiggly lol.
Oh oh i got a shout-out, that's exciting.
Of course! Couldn't forget my one and only patreon lol. I'll be be adding more content on there soon as well
Truly magnificent.
Thanks brother, should have another video soon.
your fiberglass cloth layers, try every other layer turned 45 degrees.
another maybe helpful, get some fiberglass window screen mesh in there,
also layering at alternating 45 degree angles.
instead of pulling/spreading 4 directions (+) it'll spread 8 (+X)
that may go a long way for more strength from less thickness and weight.
edit: may also be possible the window screen mesh laid at 45's is better,
easier for the HDPE to fully saturate between all the cross stacked fibers?
This is amazing work. I wonder if substituting a stronger fiber for the fiberglass would make it stronger? Maybe ballistic nylon or carbonfiber?
17:00 Why would you be afraid of the fiberglass shifting?
I would think a more randomized fibreglass stacking pattern would provide better impact resistance.
Did you test a randomized pattern?
Need to put net of fiberglass diagonal
Definitely subbed and voted. I support and encourage your work. You are doing an outstanding job in your design processes.
Thanks brother! I got some good stuff coming up!
Now that I finished this shield build I got a few things lined up!
@@Techthisoutmeow
Good to know. Looking forward to your mods and final designs.
@@Techthisoutmeow
NICE!
great stuff as always my man. are you still workin on up armoring that car?
I have a swarm of cat litter containers I could cut up and melt into armor plates. 😂
How to avoid air gaps between layers of hdpe (iside fiberglass)? May be vaccuum?
What about some kind of perforation (holes) in fiberglass to melt hdpe together on both sides of fiberglass layer for avoiding delamination?
INCREBILE skill and genius. God bless.
You HAVE to make a full size plate, you HAVE to
Oh for sure! That's the next step. I'm planning on 3 as of now, and I already have some of the material on its way to my house, so should be soon!
Have you thought about trying those white hardwearing trash bags that hikers use in lightweight waterproof backpacks ? those are so tough ...
Once the plates are formed, can they be reheated to form them into a curved shape without delamination?
about time you showed up lol. Thanks for suggesting this project brother! it worked great. and yeah, I don't think you would have any problems with delamination once you got the hdpe melted into the fibers, so if you wanted make some thin plates and reform them into different shapes later I don't see that being a problem.
Left a comment on the last video to about using garbage bags.
Thanks, glad to see it's all working and to see your channel doing so well. Congrats brother.
Got a question about bullet resistant film for glass, does it stick to other materials.
The price would go up but could a final wrap of the plastic bag plates be done with the film, or separately could you apply it to a thin piece of aluminium and have it have a positive effect.
The piece that I'm mentally workshopping is thin alum treadplate followed by a rubber layer, ceramic tiles and then up to 1/2 inch of the plastic and fiberglass. For aesthetic reasons I'd like the aluminium facing out, but I know that's generally a no no for armor.
Would a thin weak metal like aluminum cause the same issues as steel or iron in the front.
If you can reform the plates maybe you could do a guy fawkes mask 2.0.
Again thanks and great job
Recycled milk jugs that's where it's at
I really enjoy working with HDPE, the stuffs a breeze!
omgggg , Bro its wonderfull i think , ım kadir from istanbul turkey ,,
I working rd engineer for armoured car and your things are very good , lets go to continued .... congrculations
How about melt plastic to liquid phase and melt this layers thought fiberglass for solidity?
I sure hope you own the adjacent lots!
At 350, does the HDPE melt INTO the fiberglass like a resin?
Yes, you'll get fiberglass impregnation, like a classic resin. The first plate never got full impregnation, and it delaminated pretty aggressively
@@Techthisoutmeow Good to know, thanks!
If use instead of hdpe layers of polycarbonate? As thin as possible?
You should try the 77 gain 5.56. It is the best performing 5.56 round.
Thanks for the suggestion! I'll look into that.
What if use thicker plastic like milk jugs between fiberglass layers?
The final plates using painters plastic hdpe would be close to the same thickness of milk jug hdpe, so yeah, should work great! I think if you cut it into strips and later it you would get a similar result, might even be a bit better. I haven't fully dialed in how much hdpe is needed in-between the layers of composite fabric yet, but this could be an interesting test. Thanks for the suggestion
Have you thought about using an arbor press? Maybe pull it out while it's hot and throw it in arbor press until it cools.
Greetings sir. I'm really astonished by your evolution, since taofledermaus tests! I want to build a plate for my backpack, to avoid pistol shots in case of being shot by a mugger on the streets. What would be the ideal composition of Fiber Glass and hdpe bags?
ok, don't get me wrong, i love the builds. but plate #4, chest plate size, would have about $60-$100 worth of kevlar in it. WAAAAY doesn't qualify as recycled hdpe. price wise. cheap ceramic though, is brilliant, price wise. what i'm really baffled by, is the apparent lack of resin. are you using the hdpe microthin layers, as a form of resin? by melting it, in the oven? i do skip around in videos, a bit, so, sorry if i missed that. also, it seems like in a previous video, the one leading to this one, you discovered the power of compression, by the fiberglass layer, being "wrapped", around the block of hdpe. have you ever thought of wrapping the entire edge of these new ones, like maybe several times, with some sort of fiberglass "tape" ?
lastly, since the previous video was kind of a precursor, it doesn't seem too off topic to ask a few questions. did you ever shoot the simple hdpe and fiberglass one with any kind of rifle round? or did you just consider the double ought buckshot a quicker way than with the 223? 😄 and did you ever try a piece of tile with it? like maybe in between the front layers of fiberglass? and does anyone ever put like just 1mm of metal on the very back, to kind of simulate vehicle body panels? i know you're mostly designing with body armor in mind, but the exact same principles and needs could apply to vehicles. ok, not that you could put one in the oven, but, back to resin?
absolutely spectacular
Just a thought but have you ever looked into shear thickening flexible armor?
In this combination hdpe better than epoxy (bulletprof/weight)?
Get an IBC tote and cut it up for the hdpe. They are 1/2 inch thick plastic!
Your tests interest me. Have you ever considered doing some anti-spall experiments? I was thinking that polycarbonate may be a good option. Maybe formed around the plate with thin, steel or aluminum flanges on the sides. Seems like the fabric sleeves only take one or two hits before spall gets bad. I feel like polycarbonate is lighter and can absorb the fragments better.
Great work! Thanks for sharing
Try to orient fiberglass layer not perpendicular, but 45 degree or similar of each other.
What about using Kevlar instead of fiberglass?
For sure! the lumat I used for one of the plates is also an aramid like kevlar, just not as strong. Kevlar would would out preform these plates, in both strength and weight. The only down side to that stuff is it's cost, just like PBO fabrics. but hey, if you can afford it go for it!
And melt steel net inside?
Instead of using those Irwin clamps (they really are pretty weak) Get some Althread rod in a decent size and some thick Ply like you used in your early molds.
Make yourself a very manly flower press.. the clamp force will be much higher and can then be consistently applied with a torque wrench if you so desire such consistency (for something you may be trusting your life to..)
Should still be able to do all this on the cheap from your local big box hardware (Probably cheaper than 4 Irwin clamps, at least where I live)
Have you ever used half inch plastic cutting boards for body armor?
Your videos are very interesting. I'd like to see you try a composite ballistic helmet.
I remember seeing something similar on another channel, would rotating the fiberglass in between layers make it stronger?
I'll post the other video in the replies. It didn't stop 5.56, but it uses a similar principle to your video.
ua-cam.com/video/_7jiIQOgwtI/v-deo.html
@@MrFives55 ah yes, ZNA. Great video, inspired alot of people to use fiberglass welding blanket for ballistic plates, mainly because of cost. Another good source for cheap strong fiberglass is woven roving, most of my vehicle armor will be made out of that stuff! And to answer your question yes, 45° rotation of the composite increases breaking strength, however you do end up using more fabric to cut it. After my first run of SAPI plates is finished I'll dive into that topic more, along with proper tile arays. Thanks for bringing it up!
Any ideas for a DIY helmet made in a similar fashion?
I do have a few! So I bought some hard hats, thinking I could build off them. So yeah, I have a few ideas. We shall see what the time I have to work on that soon.
One thing that would be great if you can make it adhesive marketable adaptive part to steel armor
What results do you think you would get from simply ironing layer on layer of plastic? Do you think it would act more like your milk jug blocks or would it maintain some laminate properties?
Another great video
Thanks, more to come soon.
@@Techthisoutmeow awesome I find myself checking your page often hoping a new video came out
So why not a polycarbonate facer and then the buildup of PE and fiberglass.
Or a sandwich of polycarbonate front and rear with a core of PE/fiber?
The polycarbonate is a lot lighter than the tikes and much less prone to shattering so a second close hit still hits resistance vs the tile where a close hit hits nothing but dust.
Very great work there
You make some pretty cool stuff. Try making a dragon's armor out of your new armor method....see how well that would work maybe?👍🇺🇸
So which one would you recommend to stop m855 and 7.62x39 fmj
When are you going to do another hdpe video looking forward to it
What about melt in fiberglass (or other wire net) into hdpe block?
How could I utilize this technology to build my super hero suit?
Need to make this for vehicle door panels.
What about hdpe cutting boards? Could they be heated up and moulded like real plates?
two things , You can buy the plastic store bags from the grocery stores, in bulk , They have then hanging on racks that hold then for loading your food into at check out , they came stacked in thick stacks to hang on the racks !! AND !!! Did you do the video using the solid blocks of plastic ??
HI did you see this?
try 3do in the mix we have it in motobike pretection cloose
How much did it cost for one of these plates? I was looking up prices and realized either my math is off, or by the time I’d finish layering it would be $150 for a square foot
Late reply, but I think your math being off is more likely. The welding blankets last time I checked are about $30 for a 6x8. The painters plastic is about $25 per roll. And the porcelain floor tiles are about $1 to $2 depending on how many tiles you need for the strike face. So I'd say realistically for a square foot it should be about $57 to $60, which is dirt cheap considering most real 3+ ceramic plates are like what a few hundred dollars or more depending on how much you want to make your wallet cry. I believe the lighter commercial ceramic plates are more expensive than the heavier ones. I could be wrong though, so don't quote me on that.
How do the welding blanket and s glass compare?
That video was amazing!!! It's really hard to wrap my mind around how the 38 special barely dented the first simple plate at just 1/4" thick. Quick question, how does a "40 Smith and Wesson" compare to a 9mm or 45 acp or 357 mag for penetration. The 40 Smith and Wesson is one I haven't seen on your channel. Just curious.
After testing full power 357, everything else is for fun. You'd have to go up to something like 44mag to get a higher pen chance.
@@johnguy3211 yeah true, I'm just curious what a 40 Smith and Wesson compares to in power and pen.
@@DavidSmith-vz9uu about like hot 9mil. It carries more energy but has more frontal area. On a round for round basis more terminal effect but no more armor penatration
@@johnguy3211 oh okay thanks, I know that police officers usually carry 9mm or 40 Smith and Wesson, so that would make sense that those 2 compare.
I bet a carbon fiber blanket would make this incredible
You need to check out Jackal Mountain videos on spaced armor. Thin multi layers of hardened steel (saw blades) robbing 5.56/7.62x39 of their energy. Im betting a combination of what youre doing and the thin light hardened steel would solve a lot of your issues with proper layering.
I tested this out by the way. If you want I could put the videos up for you to see. Long story short it took 4 saw blades to stop a 5.56 and at that point it was pretty heavy
@@dawsonsumey7815 The 4. layers of hacksaw blade should be sandwiched in between with HD drum plastic...
Could you use some kind of hydraulic compression to make it more dense, I wonder?
I love this bro you look like the boogaloo Tim Pool lmao
Have you seen the oil bath method of melting HDPE?
You may find it useful, or maybe it just makes everything oily 😂
All the hdpe together would be better cause that’s how hdpe works as the bullet hits it it starts to melt but cools fast grabbing onto the bullet stoping it.
You have to hold the 9mm sideways in order to be effective with it.
I wonder if you switched from 9mm fmj to 9mm hard cast +p, would it still stop it?
If it had a double PEI 5 Porcelain strike face in front of HDPE/Fiberglass matrix composite... then yes, probably. I doubt Civil Defense 9x19 mm @ 2,000 FPS or even a .500 S&W Magnum would go through it.
keep up the cool work
Impressive.
3 layers of it and porcelain strikeface and aluminum pad and boom you got something that can stop rifle rounds...I think.
I plan to build a press out of wood that can press lit 44x44x3/4 inch plates。
Have you tried using layers of graphene?
Or diamene?
Ian?
Can you bend the plates with a heatgun for tayloring actual armour with it?
It might be easier to pre-shape them in the production process.
What about offset strikeface so they act on the bullet longer the round smashes each separately a fraction of a second apart
You place them the length of the penetrator (tip of bullet to tail of penetrator min.) Appart in the stack so tile one takes the jacket and the second takes on the penetrator
I call it two stage energy reduction in your plate with the two ceramics tight to eachother they both experience the full energy of the round
but separated the secound one would face an exponentially slower and deformed round now the remaining layers only need to slow what energy is left over after the second stage.
My thereory then is provided both plates have the same overall thickness the two stage one should stop the same round with less deformation
did you steal taofledermaus music or was it the other way around
Genius💪
Thanks!
so what's up with the broken discord link?