Thank you so much for your kind words, Ivica! I'm glad this video and possibly some of the other BMW R60 videos I've uploaded, will help you with your own motorcycle. In the next few days I will be able to assemble the engine, which has been long overdue... I cannot wait to share this video with you, as it could benefit you in many ways. Let me know if your ever run into any issues along your repairs. I'm open to help as best I can from a distance. Regards Andreas
Thank you, Carlo! It's a pleasure for me to work on such an amazingly well engineered piece of history. The end is near on this project and I will be sharing updates very soon!
I hope so! It is very interesting to work on this 50 year old BMW motorcycle like this one. I'm always learning something new and I'm already working on more videos behind the scenes. Thanks for tuning in! Regards Andreas
Andrea, First, you may not realize the value you are providing the airhead community. Thank you so much for the high quality, comprehensive, and efficient presentation of the content. 2nd, be patient in regard to views and subscribers. You may or may not know that airhead community is not huge but it is not small either. We will slowly find you. I agree with a previous commenter, watching your assembly style is highly satisfying. I look forward to your next airhead project bike. Keep them coming and we will get the word out.
@@jeffuhlbestcafeso8070 Hello Jeff! Thank you for your valuable feedback and kind words! My goal is to provide as much information as I possible can while working on this BMW R60/5. It's not always as easy as it looks, to condense this information within 10-20mins of video...but I accept this challenge! 😊 Even though views help, that is not my main focus. I'm just trying to share my project publicly and I wish to help fellow enthusiasts out there. The support that I have received so far is more than enough!! I'm getting everything ready for the engine assembly video and I'll do my best to make two versions of this video: One a little bit more technical, for everyone that would like to rebuild their own engine, but also one that is more timelapse-based. More videos are coming soon, I promise you that! Thanks for your comment, it's much appreciated. Regards Andreas
Hi Stuart, I'm glad you found this video helpful! I always try to provide as much information as I can that will help someone else down the line. In this case it's for engine parts, but I tend to work on anything mechanical, so you'll definitely see me dive into various topics along the way. Thanks for leaving such a great comment. Regards Andreas
I'm in awe of your skills. I have never seen these measuring tools as I have no background in engineering. The only thing I can add of any use is that my dad used to say that the Japanese worked with imperial measurements. What he didn't know was they had their own standard of imperial measurements from what we would call standard imperial measurements.
These tools belong to some of the most simple measuring tools, since they only determine the inside or outside measurement of a part, within the given range. I did some research and it is true that the Japanese had an imperial-like system before they strictly shifted into the metric system. The imperial system on the other hand is growing on me and it's actually a far more precise method to use. I'll probably get into this topic once I have my lathe hooked up and I start to machine parts. Thanks for leaving a great comment Simon! Regards Andreas
Hi all, I worked nearby a dept for cyl honing. I am not a professional, but I know, that the bores have not been honed cylindrical. It was more like wide top and bottom and a little more narrow in the middle. The tolerances for the ovality were very tight, but I think, more tight, as for the 2V-boxers while the 70ies. They are technical tractors and I am pretty sure, it will run good with these measured values.
These cylinders were probably bored and honed from factory to better standards then when I measured them after 90'000 + miles. The tapers of the bore are due to wear from the piston rings and this can be found on any engine. Even the most reliable engines have cylinder wall wear and there is a rule of thumb that 0.001" of wear = 100'000 km. If you have more wear during this time, then you have internal engine problems, or some materials are not to a certain quality. Nevertheless, I am not upset about this wear, because the engine will be completely rebuilt. Every component that is not within the factory specifications, will be replaced with parts that measure correctly. The tolerance for the /5 cylinder wall taper was set at 0.0004". Yes, 4 ten thousands of an inch! I will update you, once I rebuild this engine. Thanks for your continued support and your awesome comment! Regards Andreas
Thanks for tuning in to this video too! The engine rebuild is just around the corner and you'll be notified once it's up on UA-cam. Thanks for your support!! Regards Andreas
hello sir! can it be that in the manual book, to calculate the diameter you are not meant to subtract the specification. 2.3624 2.3628 instead of 2.3616 2.3612 thank you very much, very nice video!
Hi there, this is a great question! The manual shares the actual size and then the tolerance off to the right. In this case for the crankshaft main bearing journal, we have a tolerance that is negative (smaller) than the actual size that is given to us. This means is must be subtracted from 2.362". On this page there are many negative tolerances given, but I asure you on other pages there are also positive tolerances. Anther way to find out you're calculating your tolerances correctly is if you measure your inside diameter and your outside diameter. With these two values, you check to see if you have an oil-clearance. Compare this with you manual specifcations and then you can confirm that you're doing everything correctly. Regards Andreas
Thank you for your feedback and response! More videos will follow on this BMW engine, as I am trying to get everything sorted out for an engine assembly video. Thanks for viewing!! Regards Andreas
Great video as I'm a complete newbie but am in the process of stripping a R80/7. I'm actually looking to purchase a micrometer set to check the tolerances on certain parts to see what I need to replace. Obviously you're using an imperial (inch) micrometer and converting. If I go for a metric (mm) do you know if it needs to go down to 0.001 or is 0.01 sufficient?
That sounds like an awesome project!! I would definitely recommend an outside micrometer for your main bearings and connecting rod journals on the crankshaft. A metric micrometer that measures 1/100 (0.01) is sufficient enough for these parts. Enjoy your project 😊👍🏽 Regards Andreas
Mate sorry to bother you but I have a question… when you have a taper measurement bigger than 0,0004” it is no anymore under tolerance, ( I think you have 0,0015”) let me know what do you think or give me a creen shot of the tolerance that you have. Many thanks mate !
Hi Jorge, the taper I measured on the L-Cylinder was 0.0015" and on the R-Cylinder 0.0025". I have an authentic BMW workshop manual here and the taper allowance states 0.0004". As you can read these number are too large and that is why I opted for oversize pistons. You will be able to see this in my rebuild video. Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Ciao Andreas !! you are totally Right, I assume that the next episode you will show us the 1st. Oversize for Cylinder and piston (P & C=+0,50 mm +0.02 inch) !!! Many thanks and your work is amazing keep it like it is the /5 community have a big time with your channel.
I must say this is one of the best channels I found lately ❤.
I am preparing to service R60/7 and this is gold to me. Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for your kind words, Ivica! I'm glad this video and possibly some of the other BMW R60 videos I've uploaded, will help you with your own motorcycle.
In the next few days I will be able to assemble the engine, which has been long overdue... I cannot wait to share this video with you, as it could benefit you in many ways.
Let me know if your ever run into any issues along your repairs. I'm open to help as best I can from a distance. Regards Andreas
Where have these videos been all my life? Just wonderful.
Hello Ralph, thank YOU for taking the time to watch this video. I'm glad you enjoyed it and I hope you found this helpful! Regards Andreas
EXCELLENT, A TRULY IMPECCABLE JOB, VERY INTERESTING, CONGRATULATIONS!
Thank you, Carlo! It's a pleasure for me to work on such an amazingly well engineered piece of history. The end is near on this project and I will be sharing updates very soon!
A valuable vid for many in the unknown future, glad to see you making fast progress.
I hope so! It is very interesting to work on this 50 year old BMW motorcycle like this one. I'm always learning something new and I'm already working on more videos behind the scenes. Thanks for tuning in! Regards Andreas
Andrea, First, you may not realize the value you are providing the airhead community. Thank you so much for the high quality, comprehensive, and efficient presentation of the content. 2nd, be patient in regard to views and subscribers. You may or may not know that airhead community is not huge but it is not small either. We will slowly find you. I agree with a previous commenter, watching your assembly style is highly satisfying. I look forward to your next airhead project bike. Keep them coming and we will get the word out.
@@jeffuhlbestcafeso8070 Hello Jeff! Thank you for your valuable feedback and kind words! My goal is to provide as much information as I possible can while working on this BMW R60/5. It's not always as easy as it looks, to condense this information within 10-20mins of video...but I accept this challenge! 😊
Even though views help, that is not my main focus. I'm just trying to share my project publicly and I wish to help fellow enthusiasts out there. The support that I have received so far is more than enough!!
I'm getting everything ready for the engine assembly video and I'll do my best to make two versions of this video: One a little bit more technical, for everyone that would like to rebuild their own engine, but also one that is more timelapse-based.
More videos are coming soon, I promise you that! Thanks for your comment, it's much appreciated. Regards Andreas
a great instructional video showing good skills,a great help for budding engine builders.
Hi Stuart, I'm glad you found this video helpful! I always try to provide as much information as I can that will help someone else down the line. In this case it's for engine parts, but I tend to work on anything mechanical, so you'll definitely see me dive into various topics along the way. Thanks for leaving such a great comment. Regards Andreas
Excellent video!
Thanks for sharing your feedback with me and I'm glad you enjoyed it! Regards Andreas
I'm in awe of your skills. I have never seen these measuring tools as I have no background in engineering. The only thing I can add of any use is that my dad used to say that the Japanese worked with imperial measurements. What he didn't know was they had their own standard of imperial measurements from what we would call standard imperial measurements.
These tools belong to some of the most simple measuring tools, since they only determine the inside or outside measurement of a part, within the given range. I did some research and it is true that the Japanese had an imperial-like system before they strictly shifted into the metric system.
The imperial system on the other hand is growing on me and it's actually a far more precise method to use. I'll probably get into this topic once I have my lathe hooked up and I start to machine parts.
Thanks for leaving a great comment Simon! Regards Andreas
Hi all, I worked nearby a dept for cyl honing. I am not a professional, but I know, that the bores have not been honed cylindrical. It was more like wide top and bottom and a little more narrow in the middle. The tolerances for the ovality were very tight, but I think, more tight, as for the 2V-boxers while the 70ies. They are technical tractors and I am pretty sure, it will run good with these measured values.
These cylinders were probably bored and honed from factory to better standards then when I measured them after 90'000 + miles. The tapers of the bore are due to wear from the piston rings and this can be found on any engine. Even the most reliable engines have cylinder wall wear and there is a rule of thumb that 0.001" of wear = 100'000 km. If you have more wear during this time, then you have internal engine problems, or some materials are not to a certain quality.
Nevertheless, I am not upset about this wear, because the engine will be completely rebuilt. Every component that is not within the factory specifications, will be replaced with parts that measure correctly. The tolerance for the /5 cylinder wall taper was set at 0.0004". Yes, 4 ten thousands of an inch!
I will update you, once I rebuild this engine. Thanks for your continued support and your awesome comment! Regards Andreas
Great - what a fantastic resource. So looking forward to the motor rebuild. Kudos!
Thanks for tuning in to this video too! The engine rebuild is just around the corner and you'll be notified once it's up on UA-cam. Thanks for your support!! Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Looking forward to it!
hello sir!
can it be that in the manual book, to calculate the diameter you are not meant to subtract the specification.
2.3624
2.3628
instead of
2.3616
2.3612
thank you very much, very nice video!
Hi there, this is a great question! The manual shares the actual size and then the tolerance off to the right. In this case for the crankshaft main bearing journal, we have a tolerance that is negative (smaller) than the actual size that is given to us. This means is must be subtracted from 2.362".
On this page there are many negative tolerances given, but I asure you on other pages there are also positive tolerances. Anther way to find out you're calculating your tolerances correctly is if you measure your inside diameter and your outside diameter. With these two values, you check to see if you have an oil-clearance. Compare this with you manual specifcations and then you can confirm that you're doing everything correctly.
Regards Andreas
always greats Video Mate!
Thank you for your feedback and response! More videos will follow on this BMW engine, as I am trying to get everything sorted out for an engine assembly video. Thanks for viewing!! Regards Andreas
Great video as I'm a complete newbie but am in the process of stripping a R80/7.
I'm actually looking to purchase a micrometer set to check the tolerances on certain parts to see what I need to replace. Obviously you're using an imperial (inch) micrometer and converting. If I go for a metric (mm) do you know if it needs to go down to 0.001 or is 0.01 sufficient?
That sounds like an awesome project!! I would definitely recommend an outside micrometer for your main bearings and connecting rod journals on the crankshaft.
A metric micrometer that measures 1/100 (0.01) is sufficient enough for these parts.
Enjoy your project 😊👍🏽 Regards Andreas
Mate sorry to bother you but I have a question… when you have a taper measurement bigger than 0,0004” it is no anymore under tolerance, ( I think you have 0,0015”) let me know what do you think or give me a creen shot of the tolerance that you have. Many thanks mate !
Hi Jorge, the taper I measured on the L-Cylinder was 0.0015" and on the R-Cylinder 0.0025". I have an authentic BMW workshop manual here and the taper allowance states 0.0004". As you can read these number are too large and that is why I opted for oversize pistons. You will be able to see this in my rebuild video.
Regards Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild Ciao Andreas !! you are totally Right, I assume that the next episode you will show us the 1st. Oversize for Cylinder and piston (P & C=+0,50 mm +0.02 inch) !!! Many thanks and your work is amazing keep it like it is the /5 community have a big time with your channel.