You are a tremendous resource to the community. I am literally rebuilding an R100T from '79 right now! Thank you, this is incredibly useful. I learnt a lot from your m-unit setup as well. Keep 'em coming!
Thanks man, that's great to here. This comment alone makes all the hours edditing worth it. After the Vespa build I'm going back to a BMW build, but not an R or K100 this time. So new content coming up!!
I like the way the video is designed. Nobody shouts at me, no booming music, no frills. Thank you very much for this video. Subscribed to the channel! Best regards
Great video on the build. Regular fuel (gas) is high fire risk as a cleaner. Older electric drills have armature brush’s that can arc and ignite the fuel.
I rebuild this engine for a client. He want to go this far into the rebuild as shown. He told me the valves, springs and seats had been replaced earlier. On all my own builds I rebuild the heads, piston rings, gearbox etc. Those videos are on my channel as well 👍🏼
Super filmpje. Wel een tip: gebruik keramisch vet voor de uitlaatmoeren ipv kopervet. Kopervet kan met het aluminium reageren en net vast komen te zitten :)
Great video.. thank you so much for the really well filmed and explained rebuild.. I have an r100/7 sitting under a tarp waiting.. as soon as I get time to work on it..!
Jij bent bloody awesome, mate. I'm a BMW bike fan (not so much the cars), presently owning a 1200GS. As a retirement project I want to rebuild a R100 so this has given me many useful pointers. Keep on sharing :).
Well that's the best feedback I could wish fore. R100's are badass bikes to build, love them. There's a lot more R100 (how-to) content on my channel, just check it out 👍🏼
man perfect timing on this video, i'm midway through the teardown on my R100rt and have found the manual a bit lacking for a few things. Super helpful my man! I can't wait for all my gaskets and seals to get here so I can finish the disassembly and put it all back nice and fresh.
@@corner.custom thanks brother! keep up the good work! And yeah, the black and white pictures in the printed book are sometimes a bit hard to follow. Been marking stuff up with notes as I go for the next time i crack it open to make life easier
Beautiful and well done, I own two airheads and love every time I ride them, I liked the way you did this job, Congratulations from Bethany Oklahoma! Frank.
Thanks man! There's a lot more airhead content on my channel which you probably like as well. And maybe, hopefully I've got another R build coming my way as well 👍🏼
Great video and right on time ;) I just finished painting all the engine parts of my R100 engine.. same year as yours! 1979 Now I can use your video as reference so I do not forget anything ;)
@@corner.custom Yes building it back up and watching other people building one up :) How did you set the depth of the Pushrod Tubes and what value did you use? I’m also replacing mine with the stainless steel ones since mine where a bit crusty. I see some conflicting information here and there. Brooke uses 1.75mm from bottom of the cylinder to bottom the tube. I measured mine before removing them since I think they are still sort of at the distance when it came from the factory. Mine where between 0.25 - 0.6 I’m a bit hesitant to use brookes numbers. Did you measure the distance before you removed them? Since both our engines are from the same year I’m curious about what they where.
@@pjpankras I measured/compared the stainless and the original pushrod tubes, both were the same length. Also I checked the depth of the original pushrod tube in the cilinder on the top. When you see the clip when the cilinder is on the studbolts there's still a fairly bit gap between the cilinder and the engine, so the rubber compensates the gap good. This way of working was the same on the R80 engine rebuild and didn't had any issues what so ever
Great video! Have you tried freezing the push rod tubes before inserting? Sometimes the minor change can make the insertion a bit easier. Here in the US, we normally place the pistons into the cylinder from the top, so as to use the taper to make it slightly easier on the rings. On a BMW engine, are the cylinders not tapered quite so drastically? Really loved your video, thanks for creating and sharing. I've never owned a BMW, but I'm looking into purchasing one.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciated! Yes I did put the push rod tubes in the freezer and it helped quite a bit, also by heating up the cylinder. On other R engines I did put the piston in from up top, but I've found it much easier and safer on the rings to go from the bottom, also because the lower end of the cylinder is somewhat taperd. These bikes/engines are a joy to work on. Straight forward and great looks!
@@corner.custom well it looks really nice and itˋs very robust, but it came at some cost. I got pretty high temperatures (also because I upgraded to the 1000cc Siebenrock Powerkit), so I went for the Oil Pan with the external Oilfilter (Motoren Israel) plus an Oilcooler. That helped.
@@corner.custom Yes, everything. But i took the engine and the gearbox even further apart than you did. Than sealing and blasting everything and than cleaning over cleaning to make sure nothing stays inside.
@thomasrichter1219 This wasn't my engine, I rebuild this for a client. The R100RS build on my channel was mine and I did a full rebuild on the heads and gearbox as well. Great work man 👍🏼
Great job! Thank you very much for creating this video. I have a few questions: -The timing chain, have you considered replacing it? I dont know what te replacement interfal is for the chain. -The ultrasonic cleaner you mentioned is a 45-liter variant. However, it seems quite expensive(2/3K!). Do you think a 30-liter variant would suffice? The dimensions I had in mind for the inside of the basket are 430 x 240 x 120 mm. -What led you to choose the 2K coating for the engine itself? Would Cetakote be a suitable alternative? Or is 2K more cost-effective?
Thanks for your comment, appreciated! - The maintenance history was known and up to date. Also this isn't my own engine so I hadn't have to make that decision. - I bought the ultrasonic cleaner for a perfect deal so that's why it's the size that it is. You can easily go for a smaller on, would be more efficient as well when cleaning smaller parts. - On the side of the engine the was heavy wear on the block itself due to rubbing of the centerstand and there for I seconds guessed the adhesion of the Cerakote. There I made the choice to go for 2K paint, also because I rebuild an engine in the same way before. Didn't had anything to do with the costs though!
Thank you for that detailed rebuild! great finish! where do you get the cerakotee from? can`t find it in shops, i would like to use a spray gun not a can =/
Great work Sir! So much detail and I appreciate it. Although I missed a few steps, how did you remove the cylinder rods, or I missed them in the video? and did your R100 come with an oil cooler? I'm currently rebuilding an R100RT and this video has been a big help already and boosted my confidence on doing the rebuild on my own. Keep up the good work!
Thanks man, great to hear that this video is helping other enthusiasts to give them enough confidence to give it a try. Just take the time and work step by step. I didn't took out the rods, so that's correct. Also I rebuild this engine for a client, didn't build the whole bike. This engine didn't came with an oil cooler. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions
@@corner.custom i didn’t mean to use the term “cylinder rods“ lol that was my mistake, what i meant to say was the engine cylinder stud bolts, i didn’t think i see it’s removal process in the video.
@batagventures3435 Ah no worries. Yes I took those out so I could clean/spray the engine. Somewhere near the end of the video I also show that you need to measure the length of the cylinder stud bolt before removing it so you put it back at the correct length 👌🏼
@@reddevil258 This was the fourth time rebuilding an R engine, but the first time it was very helpful to me for using the technical drawings from realoem.com. I also showed that in the video when ordering the parts
Just discovered your channel. Superb. I have a r100s that I have converted to a cafe racer - your videos will be a huge help for maintenance and upgrades! 👍🏻😃
Kijk dat is mooi om te horen. Er staan nog meer how to videos op mijn kanaal over een R100. Bedrijf? Nee ik ben gewoon iemand die dit in zijn vrije tijd doet hah
Klopt het dat je het motorblok zelf niet gestraald hebt? En is dat wel mogelijk? (zonder deze uit elkaar te halen; drijfstang, etc.) Ben nu zelf R100 aan het preppen voor vaporblast. Super bedankt voor je videos; inspirerend en zeer behulpzaam.
Klopt heb het blok niet gestraald. Zou wel kunnen, maar dan zou ik het blok wel geheel leeg maken. Je wilt niet het risico lopen dat je straalgrid in je lagers oid krijgt. Mooi om te horen, komt nog meer how-to videos aan 👍🏼
Great. Watch out when tightening head bolts. Four on each cylinder hold the posts for the valve rockers. The ticking sound flat air heads are famous for can be annoying. It’s not all the valve clearance tapping. I’m sure any end float on the rockers contributes greatly. Should be minimal end float. Some purists may faint but I set zero clearance. Never had a problem and big noise reduction. To do this requires the blocks to be gently squeezed while torquing the head down. I do this by putting a socket either side of the blocks (to clear the rocker shafts) and GENTLY squeezing together with a clamp. Then torque head bolts. Some will say zero lash will not allow lubrication . Reality says it does get lubricant. Very quiet engine when no back lash on rockers and valve clearance are correct.
Fantastic video. 😊 Thank you. I had a 1974 R/90 6, and did some of these jobs. This video brings back some great memories. How long did this project take you?
you can also put the pushrod tubes in the freezer as well (will shrink the part a small bit) and make installation a bit easier. Also, no cylinder honing ? no valve guides? valve job? new bearings?...
I also did that, but not for too long so didn't really helped. I rebuild this engine for a client and we'd agreed to go this far. The valves had been replaced before it and the cylinders were in good condition
Is it also possible to clean the engine the way you do with the brush when the engine is in the frame? Looking for a way to clean mine haha. I wont be using fuel then obviously but something like brake cleaner or dishsoap with water
I worked on this engine for a client and we've agreed to go so far as shown in the video. The heads weren't rebuild as well, but that was all according to his wishes
is it regular 95 you use to clean parts ? Also why did you choose a dry sand blaster instead of a wet set up ? Does this have to do with the ceracoating you do?
Yeah most of the time I use the fuel that came with the bike/tank. Because the Cerakote indeed. It needs to be blasted with aluminum oxide to get the correct adhesion
Ziet er super uit. Ik ben jaloers 😁 en heb 2 vragen: de aluminium oxide heb je daar misschien een linkje van welke je gebruikt, er zijn namlijk verschillende grof/fijn soorten?, en mag ik weten op hoeveel bar de compressor van het blast apparaat staat. Dank je.
Mooi om te horen 👍🏼Gebruik zelf al jaren alu oxide van Powerplustools, doet het prima en dan het liefste de meest grove variant. Compressor heb ik op max druk staan, 8 bar. Tijdens het stralen heb je dan ongeveer 6,5 bar continue
@marcelmarcel8815 Geen probleem 👍🏼Er staan meerdere how-to videos op mijn kanaal met Cerakote behandelingen. Zal voor de nieuwe K12 build een betere how-to maken waarin ik meer uitleg kan geven (over Cerakote)
I did this rebuild for a client and he told me the head were already rebuild prior, so no need to work on that in this case. On my own builds the heads were rebuild, so new valves, valve springs and valve seats
The cilinders and heads got an Cerakote treatment, so the hot side of the engine. From temperature measurements I know that the oilpan, valve covers etc don't get near enough heat to get in trouble with the paint(spec)
Question: Instead of using flammable gasoline inside a shop plus you have arcing from your drill that could possibly ignite the fuel vapors to wash the exterior of the engine why not just spray on pre cleaner like Simple Green or Purple Power let it soak then just pressure wash it ? I will it as clean or cleaner?I have taken parts down to the car wash 100s of times and with the hot pressure water it gets it really clean and you dont have to use Flammable liquids to wash down the out side of the engine .
I get your point and you're not wrong for mentioning it with the arcing that can happen with a drill that has brushes. In my case I have a brushless drill so no worries on that, I did took than into account. This wasn't my own engine, so that's why I was a little bit more precocious than normal 🙂
I believe that's how they called the Peugeot car engines haha. But either way I also love the look of these engines, I think they more look like a radial airplane engine due to the large cooling fins
6 місяців тому
can I ask somebody’s help, I have a r65 airhead and wondering about the exhaust, do i need to keep it separate or can i just put the two pipes in one ?
Hi, just asking to clarify a doubt: isn't cherakote paint made to be a heat insulator? If so, wouldn't it make the cooling of the engine worse since the air wouldn't take off the heat from the heads and cylinders as efficiently as before?
I will reply in English because you did it in English. Living in North Limburg, I recently bought a 1978 BMW R100RS with a sidecar. I intend to restore it completely in the near future. The special BMW tools you used, can you tell me where to buy them? Furthermore, I am greatly grateful for your video. 😊
Kan ook prima in het Nederlands hoor. Doe mijn videos in het Engels zodat je een groter publiek trekt. Leuk project, vooral met een zijspan! Heb de speciale tools bij de Hobbyist vandaan, zij zitten dichtbij jou. Heb net ook weer een nieuwe R100 build. Mocht je ondanks de beschikbare videos op mijn kanaal nog meer specifieke info willen hebben laat het dan weten, kan ik dat meenemen in de nieuwe videos👍🏼
@@corner.custom Bedankt voor je reactie. Ik zit er aan te denken om er ook een video project van te maken. Ik ben echter ook druk doende met mijn autobus project. Bedankt voor de info. En we houden contact 😀
@@corner.custom Water based solvents and detergents aren't flammable. Gasoline, as I'm sure you know, is highly volatile and flammable. Couple that with spraying it and with the slightest provocation, you will have an explosion. Kerosene or mineral spirits (paint thinner) are still flammable but less volatile but still very dangerous when atomized. I'm only pointing this out for the safety of your viewers and you
You're not wrong! So yes im in The Netherlands. This was a one time exclusive job so the say, sorry for that. I'm loaded up with work and short of time unfortunattely. But on the other side there's loads of info to give it a try yourself
You used two different paints to paint the engine. Cerakote for the cylinders due to temperature and Selemix for other parts. Why not cover the whole engine with Cerakote, is it because of the paint cost? Reason for the question is that I'm facing a similar issue at the moment.
Good question! The reason why I chose to go with Selemix for the engine itself is because Cerakote recommands that the surface get a blast with aluminum oxide before applying the Cerakote. I did see other people use Cerakote on surfaces that were prepped by the use of a scotch brite pad, but I'm rather safe than sorry and the color match is also pretty good. You're also going trough a rebuild of the engine or just the paint phase?
![[A's BMW vol.11] Engine & Gear Box build.エンジン＆ミッション組み立て。BMW R100RS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BWv4szYUud0/mqdefault.jpg)
You are a tremendous resource to the community. I am literally rebuilding an R100T from '79 right now! Thank you, this is incredibly useful. I learnt a lot from your m-unit setup as well. Keep 'em coming!
Thanks man, that's great to here. This comment alone makes all the hours edditing worth it. After the Vespa build I'm going back to a BMW build, but not an R or K100 this time. So new content coming up!!
I like the way the video is designed.
Nobody shouts at me, no booming music, no frills.
Thank you very much for this video.
Subscribed to the channel!
Best regards
Thanks man, great to hear. Welcome to the club 🙌🏼👍🏼
Great video on the build. Regular fuel (gas) is high fire risk as a cleaner. Older electric drills have armature brush’s that can arc and ignite the fuel.
Your not wrong there! I do got a new (brushless) drill and familiar with the sparks that can occur, but good that you're mentioning it though
Your builds are beautiful, your step by step guides are very detailed. Awesome content!
Thanks man, that's exactly where I did it for! Glad you like it 👍🏼
Considering you're a Frenchman, you have done a truly excellent job!
Haha why do you think I'm French?
Wicked video mate, great to see the whole process from start to finish!
Thanks! Quite a long video in the end, but wanted to cover all the stages and information 👍🏼
So informative, Nice job! This will be the bible for my rebuilding job with the 1980 BMW R80/7.
That's awesome man, great to hear. Good luck with the rebuild 👍🏼
Clean job! Liked and subbed!
Thanks! And welcome to the club haha!
Absolutely fantastic! Timing too, 'cos I've just dismantled my '89 R100GS PD for a rebuild. You have saved me a lot of headaches. Subscribed!!
That's great to hear, good luck with your build! I've got multiple how-to video's on my channel for the airheads. Welcome to the club!
After all these efforts I am surprised that you did not replace piston rings, valves and crank bearings
I rebuild this engine for a client. He want to go this far into the rebuild as shown. He told me the valves, springs and seats had been replaced earlier.
On all my own builds I rebuild the heads, piston rings, gearbox etc. Those videos are on my channel as well 👍🏼
Great thorough job Si! Will be very helpful for a lot of enthusiasts 👍🏻
Thanks Dave! I sure hope so
Thank you for the video! It will be really helpful once I buy an R100 soon.
Perfect! Good luck on the rebuild 👍🏼
My first bike was a R80. This looks magnificent -- great work.
Such cool bikes IMHO. Thanks
Super filmpje. Wel een tip: gebruik keramisch vet voor de uitlaatmoeren ipv kopervet. Kopervet kan met het aluminium reageren en net vast komen te zitten :)
Bedankt, altijd leuk om te horen. Ok kijk goede tip, altijd welkom!
Such an underrated channel. Keep it up!
Thank you, sure will💪🏼
Great video.. thank you so much for the really well filmed and explained rebuild.. I have an r100/7 sitting under a tarp waiting.. as soon as I get time to work on it..!
Thanks man, great getting feedback like this. Good luck with the rebuild 👍🏼
Great information, thanks for sharing!
You're welcome 🤟🏼
A nice class fully detailed, thanks!
You're welcome 👍🏼
Fantastic work.
Thank you sir! 👍🏼
Sounds great thank you for sharing
You're welcome 👍🏼
Jij bent bloody awesome, mate. I'm a BMW bike fan (not so much the cars), presently owning a 1200GS. As a retirement project I want to rebuild a R100 so this has given me many useful pointers. Keep on sharing :).
Well that's the best feedback I could wish fore. R100's are badass bikes to build, love them. There's a lot more R100 (how-to) content on my channel, just check it out 👍🏼
Nice work. Amazing video
Thanks 👍🏼👌🏼
excellent video! probably the best worth watched time ive spent in a long itme! thank you for the work and effrot
Well that's the best feedback I could wish for 👏🏻👏🏻
Very informative video thank you
No worries, that's why I made the video. Hope you benefit from it!
man perfect timing on this video, i'm midway through the teardown on my R100rt and have found the manual a bit lacking for a few things. Super helpful my man! I can't wait for all my gaskets and seals to get here so I can finish the disassembly and put it all back nice and fresh.
Ok awesome, that's great to hear that you benefit from this video compared to the manual. Good luck on rebuilding the engine 🤟🏼
@@corner.custom thanks brother! keep up the good work! And yeah, the black and white pictures in the printed book are sometimes a bit hard to follow. Been marking stuff up with notes as I go for the next time i crack it open to make life easier
Thanks man, will do. Try to reveal the new (bmw) build soon!
Thank U, man.
A dream of a video.
Thanks man, hope you benefit from the video
Nice. Such good looking engine
Couldn't agree more!
very much good info! well done!
Perfect man, that's great to hear 👏🏻 Hope you benefit from this video 👍🏼
Beautiful and well done, I own two airheads and love every time I ride them, I liked the way you did this job, Congratulations from Bethany Oklahoma! Frank.
Thanks man! There's a lot more airhead content on my channel which you probably like as well. And maybe, hopefully I've got another R build coming my way as well 👍🏼
The r Series BMW engine is such a work of art. I've had an r80 for several years and I can just stare at it for hours.
I feel you!! The look so classic and also look like an radial engine, beautiful!
Just picked up an r100 it is a 1978 pretty neglected but I'm designing an interesting build for it.
@krisrob648 great man, good luck with the build👍🏼
Смотри дальше на этот мусор немецкого утиля🤣🤣🤣
MAN YOU DO QUALITY WORK 👍
Thanks Mr Stark 😉
Wow you do great work
Thank you 🤟🏼👍🏼
I own an old and abandoned r90s your videos are really interested to me. 😊
Sounds like the bike could use some love then! Hope this videos helps you 👍🏼
This video is gold
Thanks 👏🏻🤟🏼
Sta op het punt om m’n ‘86 R80RT op te knappen. Eerste video is deze, super goed gedaan! Uit Phoenix arizona
Mooi om te horen 👊🏼👍🏼
Great video and right on time ;) I just finished painting all the engine parts of my R100 engine.. same year as yours! 1979 Now I can use your video as reference so I do not forget anything ;)
Haha right on! Building back up the engine is the best part, so satisfying 🤤
@@corner.custom Yes building it back up and watching other people building one up :) How did you set the depth of the Pushrod Tubes and what value did you use? I’m also replacing mine with the stainless steel ones since mine where a bit crusty. I see some conflicting information here and there. Brooke uses 1.75mm from bottom of the cylinder to bottom the tube. I measured mine before removing them since I think they are still sort of at the distance when it came from the factory. Mine where between 0.25 - 0.6 I’m a bit hesitant to use brookes numbers. Did you measure the distance before you removed them? Since both our engines are from the same year I’m curious about what they where.
@@pjpankras I measured/compared the stainless and the original pushrod tubes, both were the same length. Also I checked the depth of the original pushrod tube in the cilinder on the top. When you see the clip when the cilinder is on the studbolts there's still a fairly bit gap between the cilinder and the engine, so the rubber compensates the gap good. This way of working was the same on the R80 engine rebuild and didn't had any issues what so ever
@@corner.custom Thanx! I will put them in the freezer so I can tap them in this week.
Perfect! Don't forget to lube them 😌
Great work. I'm very jealous of your ultrasonic cleaner
Thanks!! A ultrasonic cleaner really is a must have for work like this, cleans it up so well
brilliant job !!!
Thank you!! 👌🏼🤙🏼
Great video I have two r100gs pd 89/92
Thanks 👊🏼 👍🏼 Great bikes 😁
It's a piece of art
Thanks 😁👍🏼
Dude, that is BEAUTIFUL! Such a nice job. Very nice work my friend 👍🏻
Thanks man, appreciated 👏🏻👍🏼
Nice job!👌
Thanks!
Top video! Bedankt 😊
Kijk mooi om te horen 👍🏼👍🏼
Awesome from Tasmania 🇦🇺
Great to hear mate. Hope you benefit from the video 🤟🏼
You do excellent work!!! I really think it would be cool to take one of these old R100 motors and make an outboard boat motor with it.
Thank you! These motors look so cool. You just also could use them as a table with an glass plate on top of them
Well done, job & video
Thanks 🤟🏼
@@corner.custom this sign that u use is satanic horns sign - > 🤟
Then I just do this 👍🏼😉
that was awesome!
Thanks 👍🏼👍🏼
Sehr gute Arbeit! Top!!
Thanks man, hope it will help you 👍🏼🤟🏼
Nice work
Thanks 😁👌🏼
Good job Bro..🎉
Thanks man, hope it will help you 👍🏼
Excellent thank you
You're welcome man. Hope this will help you out 👍🏼
Wow, nice work! Your english ist wunderbar! Not sure where you are from but well detailed video. Hello from Kingston On 🇨🇦
Thanks man, appreciated. I'm from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
Спасибо.классная работа.
You're welcome man!
good job
Thanks, hope it helps you out 👍🏼
Very classy.
Thanks man🤟🏼👍🏼
excellent!
Thanks 🤟🏼👍🏼
That's a work of art... I'm glad I'm not paying the bill ;-)
Thanks! It ain't cheap that's for sure, but then again, now the engine is ready to be enjoyed to the fullest 😎🔥
Impressive ❤
Thank you!!
Great video!
Have you tried freezing the push rod tubes before inserting? Sometimes the minor change can make the insertion a bit easier.
Here in the US, we normally place the pistons into the cylinder from the top, so as to use the taper to make it slightly easier on the rings. On a BMW engine, are the cylinders not tapered quite so drastically?
Really loved your video, thanks for creating and sharing. I've never owned a BMW, but I'm looking into purchasing one.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciated! Yes I did put the push rod tubes in the freezer and it helped quite a bit, also by heating up the cylinder.
On other R engines I did put the piston in from up top, but I've found it much easier and safer on the rings to go from the bottom, also because the lower end of the cylinder is somewhat taperd.
These bikes/engines are a joy to work on. Straight forward and great looks!
super ! dit gaat me zeker helpen :)
Mooi man, mooi om te horen. Succes 👍🏼
EXCELLENT VIDEO..just a suggestion, if you put the push rod tubes in the freezer you don't need to warm up the cylinder
Thanks man, great to hear. I did put the tubes in the freezer, but not for very long and want to be sure so heated up the cylinder as well :-)
cool man!@@corner.custom
Liked and subscribed. I have 3 Honda's would like to add a BMW brick motor sometime.
Thanks man, welcome to the club 😁🤟🏼 Sounds like a BMW wouldn't look that bad beside the Honda's 👍🏼
Thank you
👍🏼👍🏼
Nice🤜🤛
Thanks 👍🏼
Did the same some 10 years ago, but powdercoated everything. So nice job.
How did the powdercoat help up? Pretty curious about that!
@@corner.custom well it looks really nice and itˋs very robust, but it came at some cost. I got pretty high temperatures (also because I upgraded to the 1000cc Siebenrock Powerkit), so I went for the Oil Pan with the external Oilfilter (Motoren Israel) plus an Oilcooler. That helped.
@@thomasrichter1219 Sounds great! So did you also powdercoated the cylinders and heads? Especially the heads get quite hot
@@corner.custom Yes, everything. But i took the engine and the gearbox even further apart than you did. Than sealing and blasting everything and than cleaning over cleaning to make sure nothing stays inside.
@thomasrichter1219 This wasn't my engine, I rebuild this for a client. The R100RS build on my channel was mine and I did a full rebuild on the heads and gearbox as well. Great work man 👍🏼
Bravo!
Hope you'll benefit from it 👍🏼
Thank you so much for UA-cam chanal
You're welcome buddy 👍🏼
Great job! Thank you very much for creating this video.
I have a few questions:
-The timing chain, have you considered replacing it? I dont know what te replacement interfal is for the chain.
-The ultrasonic cleaner you mentioned is a 45-liter variant. However, it seems quite expensive(2/3K!). Do you think a 30-liter variant would suffice? The dimensions I had in mind for the inside of the basket are 430 x 240 x 120 mm.
-What led you to choose the 2K coating for the engine itself? Would Cetakote be a suitable alternative? Or is 2K more cost-effective?
Thanks for your comment, appreciated!
- The maintenance history was known and up to date. Also this isn't my own engine so I hadn't have to make that decision.
- I bought the ultrasonic cleaner for a perfect deal so that's why it's the size that it is. You can easily go for a smaller on, would be more efficient as well when cleaning smaller parts.
- On the side of the engine the was heavy wear on the block itself due to rubbing of the centerstand and there for I seconds guessed the adhesion of the Cerakote. There I made the choice to go for 2K paint, also because I rebuild an engine in the same way before. Didn't had anything to do with the costs though!
Thank you for that detailed rebuild! great finish! where do you get the cerakotee from? can`t find it in shops, i would like to use a spray gun not a can =/
www.cerakote.de
That's where I buy it from. Sprayguns are the way to go for sure, you can't get the same result with cans!
Great work Sir! So much detail and I appreciate it. Although I missed a few steps, how did you remove the cylinder rods, or I missed them in the video? and did your R100 come with an oil cooler? I'm currently rebuilding an R100RT and this video has been a big help already and boosted my confidence on doing the rebuild on my own. Keep up the good work!
Thanks man, great to hear that this video is helping other enthusiasts to give them enough confidence to give it a try. Just take the time and work step by step. I didn't took out the rods, so that's correct. Also I rebuild this engine for a client, didn't build the whole bike. This engine didn't came with an oil cooler. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions
@@corner.custom i didn’t mean to use the term “cylinder rods“ lol that was my mistake, what i meant to say was the engine cylinder stud bolts, i didn’t think i see it’s removal process in the video.
@batagventures3435 Ah no worries. Yes I took those out so I could clean/spray the engine. Somewhere near the end of the video I also show that you need to measure the length of the cylinder stud bolt before removing it so you put it back at the correct length 👌🏼
Great rebuild. Please use additional lighting.
Thanks man. You mean additional lighting for filming 🎥? Already sorted that 👌🏼
Amazing instructive video, I have r100rt 1979 which I'm thinking to do the rebuilt, do you happen to know how much cost for all the parts? Tia
Thanks man, great to hear 👍🏼 Cost for this rebuild were around €800
Good
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Let me know if this video was helpful for you 👍🏼
Great Video!! Bro I would totally want to know how you got the technical drawings for the breakdown process!!
@@reddevil258 This was the fourth time rebuilding an R engine, but the first time it was very helpful to me for using the technical drawings from realoem.com. I also showed that in the video when ordering the parts
Just discovered your channel. Superb. I have a r100s that I have converted to a cafe racer - your videos will be a huge help for maintenance and upgrades! 👍🏻😃
Ok cool that's nice to know. Let me know if you have any suggestions for new content 👍🏼🤟🏼
Hi, Why you didn't replace the main bearings?
Super bedankt man, geeft me het vertrouwen zelf een R100 project aan te gaan! Waar zit je bedrijf eigenlijk?
Kijk dat is mooi om te horen. Er staan nog meer how to videos op mijn kanaal over een R100. Bedrijf? Nee ik ben gewoon iemand die dit in zijn vrije tijd doet hah
Klopt het dat je het motorblok zelf niet gestraald hebt? En is dat wel mogelijk? (zonder deze uit elkaar te halen; drijfstang, etc.) Ben nu zelf R100 aan het preppen voor vaporblast. Super bedankt voor je videos; inspirerend en zeer behulpzaam.
Klopt heb het blok niet gestraald. Zou wel kunnen, maar dan zou ik het blok wel geheel leeg maken. Je wilt niet het risico lopen dat je straalgrid in je lagers oid krijgt. Mooi om te horen, komt nog meer how-to videos aan 👍🏼
Great. Watch out when tightening head bolts. Four on each cylinder hold the posts for the valve rockers. The ticking sound flat air heads are famous for can be annoying. It’s not all the valve clearance tapping. I’m sure any end float on the rockers contributes greatly. Should be minimal end float. Some purists may faint but I set zero clearance. Never had a problem and big noise reduction. To do this requires the blocks to be gently squeezed while torquing the head down. I do this by putting a socket either side of the blocks (to clear the rocker shafts) and GENTLY squeezing together with a clamp. Then torque head bolts. Some will say zero lash will not allow lubrication . Reality says it does get lubricant. Very quiet engine when no back lash on rockers and valve clearance are correct.
Ok that's an interesting theory, never heard about that before. Thanks for sharing that!
Fantastic video. 😊 Thank you. I had a 1974 R/90 6, and did some of these jobs. This video brings back some great memories. How long did this project take you?
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback 👍🏼 The whole rebuild took around 40 hours. This was the 4th time doing a rebuild like this that really helps
Another amazing in depth video! Learned a lot and enjoyed watching. Thanks for sharing 🙏🛠️
Thanks man, that's the reason I've put this video out 🤟🏼👍🏼
you can also put the pushrod tubes in the freezer as well (will shrink the part a small bit) and make installation a bit easier. Also, no cylinder honing ? no valve guides? valve job? new bearings?...
I also did that, but not for too long so didn't really helped. I rebuild this engine for a client and we'd agreed to go this far. The valves had been replaced before it and the cylinders were in good condition
Is it also possible to clean the engine the way you do with the brush when the engine is in the frame? Looking for a way to clean mine haha. I wont be using fuel then obviously but something like brake cleaner or dishsoap with water
Yes sure you could do that, only downside to that is that you have hard to reach areas. But it will clean up nicely for sure 💪🏼👍🏼
good work. A bit strange not to check cylinder and crankshaft journal wear since you got almost everything disassembled.
I worked on this engine for a client and we've agreed to go so far as shown in the video. The heads weren't rebuild as well, but that was all according to his wishes
@@corner.custom You did a terrific job. Thank you.
Thanks man. Hope you benefit from the video 👍🏼
is it regular 95 you use to clean parts ? Also why did you choose a dry sand blaster instead of a wet set up ? Does this have to do with the ceracoating you do?
Yeah most of the time I use the fuel that came with the bike/tank. Because the Cerakote indeed. It needs to be blasted with aluminum oxide to get the correct adhesion
Ziet er super uit. Ik ben jaloers 😁 en heb 2 vragen: de aluminium oxide heb je daar misschien een linkje van welke je gebruikt, er zijn namlijk verschillende grof/fijn soorten?, en mag ik weten op hoeveel bar de compressor van het blast apparaat staat. Dank je.
Mooi om te horen 👍🏼Gebruik zelf al jaren alu oxide van Powerplustools, doet het prima en dan het liefste de meest grove variant. Compressor heb ik op max druk staan, 8 bar. Tijdens het stralen heb je dan ongeveer 6,5 bar continue
Dankje
@marcelmarcel8815 Geen probleem 👍🏼Er staan meerdere how-to videos op mijn kanaal met Cerakote behandelingen. Zal voor de nieuwe K12 build een betere how-to maken waarin ik meer uitleg kan geven (over Cerakote)
Did you do anything to the intake and exhaust valve seats as far as grinding them with a valve grinding compound?
I did this rebuild for a client and he told me the head were already rebuild prior, so no need to work on that in this case. On my own builds the heads were rebuild, so new valves, valve springs and valve seats
Does the paint interfere with heat transfer on the cylinder head and oil pan?
The cilinders and heads got an Cerakote treatment, so the hot side of the engine. From temperature measurements I know that the oilpan, valve covers etc don't get near enough heat to get in trouble with the paint(spec)
If you have the heads off it is easy to relocate the the internal THRUST WASHER should it come adrift.
Ok, can you explain how
Question: Instead of using flammable gasoline inside a shop plus you have arcing from your drill that could possibly ignite the fuel vapors to wash the exterior of the engine why not just spray on pre cleaner like Simple Green or Purple Power let it soak then just pressure wash it ? I will it as clean or cleaner?I have taken parts down to the car wash 100s of times and with the hot pressure water it gets it really clean and you dont have to use Flammable liquids to wash down the out side of the engine .
I get your point and you're not wrong for mentioning it with the arcing that can happen with a drill that has brushes. In my case I have a brushless drill so no worries on that, I did took than into account.
This wasn't my own engine, so that's why I was a little bit more precocious than normal 🙂
I like those motors. Didn't they call them the suit case engine?
I believe that's how they called the Peugeot car engines haha. But either way I also love the look of these engines, I think they more look like a radial airplane engine due to the large cooling fins
can I ask somebody’s help, I have a r65 airhead and wondering about the exhaust, do i need to keep it separate or can i just put the two pipes in one ?
I've seen multiple bikes with a 2-1 exhaust. Don't really know if there are any downsides regarding to the backpreassure
@CornerCustom are the cylinder interior metal areas painted? Or is that just the look of the material?
What do you exactly mean with interior metal?
@@corner.custom I watched the video again. I was mistaken. Thanks for the quick reply.
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Was that cleaning fuel Kerosene?
Just regular fuel
What is the HP and TRQ numbers on this engine?
Power output of 60 hp at 6,500 rpm and 75 Nm (55 lb-ft) of torque with a peak at 6,000 rpm
Hi, just asking to clarify a doubt: isn't cherakote paint made to be a heat insulator? If so, wouldn't it make the cooling of the engine worse since the air wouldn't take off the heat from the heads and cylinders as efficiently as before?
No it isn't a heat insulator, there are even Cerakote types that are specifically used on top of pistons for a better heat distribution
@@corner.custom oh, good to know! I thought they only made the heat insulator one, thanks for the clarification!
@laferrarifabrummbrumm3878 no no no, just check out their website. They make a ton of different series for all applications
I will reply in English because you did it in English. Living in North Limburg, I recently bought a 1978 BMW R100RS with a sidecar. I intend to restore it completely in the near future. The special BMW tools you used, can you tell me where to buy them?
Furthermore, I am greatly grateful for your video. 😊
Kan ook prima in het Nederlands hoor. Doe mijn videos in het Engels zodat je een groter publiek trekt. Leuk project, vooral met een zijspan! Heb de speciale tools bij de Hobbyist vandaan, zij zitten dichtbij jou. Heb net ook weer een nieuwe R100 build. Mocht je ondanks de beschikbare videos op mijn kanaal nog meer specifieke info willen hebben laat het dan weten, kan ik dat meenemen in de nieuwe videos👍🏼
@@corner.custom Bedankt voor je reactie. Ik zit er aan te denken om er ook een video project van te maken. Ik ben echter ook druk doende met mijn autobus project.
Bedankt voor de info. En we houden contact 😀
Altijd genoeg projecten, herkenbaar 😅 Mocht je nog vragen hebben, stel ze gerust 👍🏼
Very informative video, but you use fuel as a solvent? I hope not gasoline.
Could you tell me the difference?
@@corner.custom Water based solvents and detergents aren't flammable. Gasoline, as I'm sure you know, is highly volatile and flammable. Couple that with spraying it and with the slightest provocation, you will have an explosion. Kerosene or mineral spirits (paint thinner) are still flammable but less volatile but still very dangerous when atomized.
I'm only pointing this out for the safety of your viewers and you
Two cylinders for $717 + OUCH ! BMW ... Bites My Wallet
Then you'll beter go for a Siebenrock kit 💪🏼
I should have bought one of these several years ago when nobody wanted them
The prices went up like crazy indeed!!
I'm going to guess you're based in the Netherlands!? How much do you charge for a full airhead rebuild? eg an r80 gs 1981
You're not wrong! So yes im in The Netherlands. This was a one time exclusive job so the say, sorry for that. I'm loaded up with work and short of time unfortunattely. But on the other side there's loads of info to give it a try yourself
@@corner.custom Many thanks for your reply and for your excellent vid!
@touchingthecloth No worries man anytime. Just let me know if you have any questions 👍🏼
You used two different paints to paint the engine. Cerakote for the cylinders due to temperature and Selemix for other parts. Why not cover the whole engine with Cerakote, is it because of the paint cost?
Reason for the question is that I'm facing a similar issue at the moment.
Good question! The reason why I chose to go with Selemix for the engine itself is because Cerakote recommands that the surface get a blast with aluminum oxide before applying the Cerakote. I did see other people use Cerakote on surfaces that were prepped by the use of a scotch brite pad, but I'm rather safe than sorry and the color match is also pretty good. You're also going trough a rebuild of the engine or just the paint phase?
@@corner.custom
Thanks for the reply. Actually the whole bike. Engine is just one stage of the whole project. It's also a boxer engine.
@magnusreimann1055 Perfect approach by done one step a the time. There are more R related how-to on my channel as well 👍🏼