Martin, would like to say thanks man, this slide hammer deal saved me alot of work. Man that's the trick, I was about to go out today and take the cover off the ring gear. Works so 👍 Keep up the good work.
I used a angled pry ar took me 2 minutes kit n it rotate it hit it again an was out, no other bs needed thanks for the insight on other tools that can be used
I believe 2000 is the transition year for the stub shafts as far as the circlip placement. It can cause issues with parts replacement. Also, this video saved me a ton of grief. I you could show how to remove the bearing in the axle tube that the stub shaft rides on, I believe you would make a lot of Dakota/Durango DIY guys very happy!!
Yes, you are correct re stub shaft circle placement. Specifically trucks manufacturers before 9/00 have the groove on the stub shaft about an inch from the diff. Trucks manufactured after 9/00 have the groove about a half inch from the end of the shaft. Good parts stores will know the difference and get you the right parts.
geez.. why do they make it so complicated?? I've never seen a vehicle built in September, that had that year assigned to it's model year. But, better play it safe! Best to take off the axles first, just to make sure which one you have, as these 22-23 YO dodges could very possibly have a replacement axle someone else put in... and don't take the build date off the door sticker as gospel. It's next to impossible to find the pre 2000 stub shafts for rebuilding a 2000-down, so just buy the 2000-up shafts, and get the 2001 cv shafts.
It's amazing what you type into youtube(sometimes). I'm looking up how to remove a rear axle shaft on Durango. But instead I get something related to/but not at all what I'm looking for
Ok, I'll try writing this again (first attempt disappeared from UA-cam)... There is a 'special' tool for this: Miller 8420C. Search around because there is a wide range of prices for the same tool. Anywhere from $60 to $120. It works with trucks manufactured before 9/00 that have the grove on the shaft about an inch from the diff and trucks manufactured after 9/00 that have the groove on the end of the shaft. Sadly, it didn't work for me on my '03 D. No matter how hard I pulled on the slide hammer the shafts would not come out. I almost pulled the truck off the jack stands at one point. I ended up having to remove the diff cover, center pin in the carrier housing, and finally the cir-clips from the inside ends of the shafts. Only then did the shafts come out. It was a P.I.T.A, but it worked. Hope that helps someone who has similar trouble removing these shafts.
Yeah, I see that OEM does make a stub axle shaft removal tool, but it was $115. And taking a tool that I paid, I think $30 for that I really didn't even like and making it into a really good axle puller was well worth it. I have also heard of other people having to remove the diff cover and the cross shaft to get the axle out.
@1:50 Thank you for showing how to remove that Circlip on Intermediate Shaft. On mine it is kind of loose, so I think to replace it. How to find the right size and material? The original clip is from some white metal (alloy). I saw on Amazon dark color clips fm/Carbon Steel. can I use one of those instead of the original one? How tight it should be? The original one rotates with no efforts, I think it should not be so. Thank you again.
very nice Martin. im working on a 2001 dodge dakota crew cab 4x4 that was a 3.9v6 auto and going to transplant a 1997 5.2v8 in it. going to change the rear axle from a 8.25 hd anti slip 3.92 with a 9.25 anti slip 3.92. like to go from the 11x2 drums out back with disc brakes from a 2003-2005 dakota rear.
Sounds like a great project. I have a set of 11" rear brakes from a 2000 Durango R/T. I had installed the 03 Durango rear disc brakes on that R/T axle. I also am installing the later model front disc brakes on my 01.
I used your method and worked perfectly, as I been hearing grinding or roaring noise from the front end, I thought it was the bearing, I noticed the stub shaft wore two flat spots on the roll pin, what would cause the stub shaft to do this?
Or,read my above comments, but since there is a groove,slot a large washer,fit ( weld, if you have axwelder)into groove,hammer out axle! Keep it simple!
I had a clicking noise on left turns, so it is Passenger side CV Axle, so I'm replacing the CV Axles. When I removed the Passenger CV Axle I decided to replace the Seal as well. This Seal is on the Passenger side, so on Intermediate Shaft. It is 2001 Saturn SL2. When I removed the seal there was a lot of grease inside of the housing of the Intermediate Shaft. It was like half of the space inside was filled w/some grease of cream color. In Shop Manual (I have it for that car) nothing is mentioned about that grease. They just say to clean the Intermediate Shaft housing and apply the axle seal grease on the lip of the seal (where rubber is I assume), and to axle bearing (not sure is it inner side of the CV Axle or outer one?). So should I fill in that housing w/some grease, how it was before? Or that grease shouldn't be there. And what grease to use? I have White Lithium Grease and Green Lithium (that one you can add into Ball Joint and Tie Rod Boots. I also have some Red Grease. This part of the project is very confusing. What grease to add and how much? Thank you very much for this film.
Hey Martin great video, Ive got myself a 01 4.7 dakota, I got my stub shafts out and the seals needed replacing too, is it necessary to use rtv sealant with the new seals, ive seen some youtube videos do that and im currently going thru my hanes to find out. Once again great videos.
I remember watching a mechanic who was trying to remove a half shaft off my Jeep that was on a lift at about head height with a slide hammer. I can't remember how he had it attached but it wouldn't break free. On about the fourth whack it broke free and with the centrifugal force came flying out and almost took his head off.
Yeah on these stubshafts if they've never been pulled out the very 1st time they can put up a fight and that's what's so great about this tool works much better than the screwdriver and hammer method.
We call those axel retaining clips Jesus Clips. You yell Jesus Christ when the clip flies across the shop into nowheres Ville, never to be seen again. Thanks for sharing removal of the inner shaft.
@@martinbuilt probably the best way to go about it. Thanks. I’m also rebuilding a 2015 hemi 1500 and I have replaced everything from the camshaft to the rocker arms but I noticed that the valves that are closed the rocker ams are loose. Do you know if this is normal?
Hi Martin, im swaping both differentials in my 98 Dakota to 2000 Durango (Mexico's version) so is there a limited slip or locker to put in the front? Rear is a 9.25 with limited slip 3.92 gears, in excellent conditions, by the way.
No you're not supposed to remove the front end this was for video purposes only to get a better shot. Never did I say remove the front end to do this. I've had many people used the same technique with the front end installed as intended.
Not ALL slide hammer kits are the same! And im not calling crapon tools to buy this clampon puller,so why not just weld a peice of steel on the end of the bad axle shaft! See you aren't thinking a one time backyard mechanic fixum up my truck,cyz you have a huge tool box,cuz your probably a full service garage! Or,since this intermediate axle shaft us garbage, just use a cut off grinding disc and notch it,or weld a nut on the end thread in a bolt,hook up your puller,and slide hammer away! 😅
Not ALL slide hammer kits are the same! And im not calling crapon tools to buy this clampon puller,so why not just weld a peice of steel on the end of the bad axle shaft! See you aren't thinking a one time backyard mechanic fixum up my truck,cyz you have a huge tool box,cuz your probably a service garage!
Not ALL slide hammer kits are the same! And im not calling crapon tools to buy this clampon puller,so why not just weld a peice of steel on the end of the bad axle shaft! See you aren't thinking a one time backyard mechanic fixum up my truck,cyz you have a huge tool box,cuz your probably a service garage!
Martin, would like to say thanks man, this slide hammer deal saved me alot of work. Man that's the trick, I was about to go out today and take the cover off the ring gear. Works so 👍 Keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for making this
I used a angled pry ar took me 2 minutes kit n it rotate it hit it again an was out, no other bs needed thanks for the insight on other tools that can be used
I believe 2000 is the transition year for the stub shafts as far as the circlip placement. It can cause issues with parts replacement.
Also, this video saved me a ton of grief. I you could show how to remove the bearing in the axle tube that the stub shaft rides on, I believe you would make a lot of Dakota/Durango DIY guys very happy!!
Yes, you are correct re stub shaft circle placement. Specifically trucks manufacturers before 9/00 have the groove on the stub shaft about an inch from the diff. Trucks manufactured after 9/00 have the groove about a half inch from the end of the shaft. Good parts stores will know the difference and get you the right parts.
Yeah I will do another video on the seal and bearing replacement I'm glad you found this helpful.
@@martinbuilt That’s excellent, thank you!!!
geez.. why do they make it so complicated?? I've never seen a vehicle built in September, that had that year assigned to it's model year. But, better play it safe!
Best to take off the axles first, just to make sure which one you have, as these 22-23 YO dodges could very possibly have a replacement axle someone else put in... and don't take the build date off the door sticker as gospel.
It's next to impossible to find the pre 2000 stub shafts for rebuilding a 2000-down, so just buy the 2000-up shafts, and get the 2001 cv shafts.
Thank you so much, it worked! Martin is a genius ❤❤❤❤
Thank you I really appreciate that I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful and thank you for watching.
It's amazing what you type into youtube(sometimes). I'm looking up how to remove a rear axle shaft on Durango. But instead I get something related to/but not at all what I'm looking for
Well here is the video you were looking for.
ua-cam.com/video/qbHAwghgitU/v-deo.html
Thank you for watching.
Ok, I'll try writing this again (first attempt disappeared from UA-cam)...
There is a 'special' tool for this: Miller 8420C. Search around because there is a wide range of prices for the same tool. Anywhere from $60 to $120. It works with trucks manufactured before 9/00 that have the grove on the shaft about an inch from the diff and trucks manufactured after 9/00 that have the groove on the end of the shaft. Sadly, it didn't work for me on my '03 D. No matter how hard I pulled on the slide hammer the shafts would not come out. I almost pulled the truck off the jack stands at one point. I ended up having to remove the diff cover, center pin in the carrier housing, and finally the cir-clips from the inside ends of the shafts. Only then did the shafts come out. It was a P.I.T.A, but it worked. Hope that helps someone who has similar trouble removing these shafts.
Same thing happened to me with my 03. I actually broke the tool trying to get it out. I wound up doing the same as you to remove it
Yeah, I see that OEM does make a stub axle shaft removal tool, but it was $115. And taking a tool that I paid, I think $30 for that I really didn't even like and making it into a really good axle puller was well worth it.
I have also heard of other people having to remove the diff cover and the cross shaft to get the axle out.
@1:50 Thank you for showing how to remove that Circlip on Intermediate Shaft. On mine it is kind of loose, so I think to replace it. How to find the right size and material? The original clip is from some white metal (alloy). I saw on Amazon dark color clips fm/Carbon Steel. can I use one of those instead of the original one? How tight it should be? The original one rotates with no efforts, I think it should not be so. Thank you again.
Awesome, Martin, Great video, Great Idea.
Thank you .I appreciate that.
I'm glad you like it and found helpful.
Thanks for the tool tip Martin.😁👍👍
You are welcome. I'm glad you liked it.👍😎
very nice Martin.
im working on a 2001 dodge dakota crew cab 4x4 that was a 3.9v6 auto and going to transplant a 1997 5.2v8 in it.
going to change the rear axle from a 8.25 hd anti slip 3.92 with a 9.25 anti slip 3.92.
like to go from the 11x2 drums out back with disc brakes from a 2003-2005 dakota rear.
Sounds like a great project. I have a set of 11" rear brakes from a 2000 Durango R/T. I had installed the 03 Durango rear disc brakes on that R/T axle.
I also am installing the later model front disc brakes on my 01.
@@martinbuilt very nice.
Great video thanks definitely remember this. Ty.
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Awesome video and tip, thanks Martin 👍😁
Thank you. Yeah once I figured out how to pull these stub shafts I had to make a video on it. I'm glad you liked it.😎👍
love this!!!....thank you so much !
I used your method and worked perfectly, as I been hearing grinding or roaring noise from the front end, I thought it was the bearing, I noticed the stub shaft wore two flat spots on the roll pin, what would cause the stub shaft to do this?
Glad to hear this method worked out for you.
What roll pin are you referring to?
My stub shaft came out easily with the CV axel's, the hard part was separating the stub from the CV axel.
super cool idea !
Thank you, I am glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Or,read my above comments, but since there is a groove,slot a large washer,fit ( weld, if you have axwelder)into groove,hammer out axle!
Keep it simple!
I had a clicking noise on left turns, so it is Passenger side CV Axle, so I'm replacing the CV Axles. When I removed the Passenger CV Axle I decided to replace the Seal as well. This Seal is on the Passenger side, so on Intermediate Shaft. It is 2001 Saturn SL2. When I removed the seal there was a lot of grease inside of the housing of the Intermediate Shaft. It was like half of the space inside was filled w/some grease of cream color. In Shop Manual (I have it for that car) nothing is mentioned about that grease. They just say to clean the Intermediate Shaft housing and apply the axle seal grease on the lip of the seal (where rubber is I assume), and to axle bearing (not sure is it inner side of the CV Axle or outer one?). So should I fill in that housing w/some grease, how it was before? Or that grease shouldn't be there. And what grease to use? I have White Lithium Grease and Green Lithium (that one you can add into Ball Joint and Tie Rod Boots. I also have some Red Grease. This part of the project is very confusing. What grease to add and how much? Thank you very much for this film.
If you use a loaner tool and have a grinder, grind the shaft rather than the tool to make it fit😊 if you're replacing half shaft.
Hey Martin great video, Ive got myself a 01 4.7 dakota, I got my stub shafts out and the seals needed replacing too, is it necessary to use rtv sealant with the new seals, ive seen some youtube videos do that and im currently going thru my hanes to find out. Once again great videos.
Meda gusto saludarte es de gran ayuda tus videos saludos desde culiacan sinaloa mexico
Thank you. I'm glad you like and find the videos helpful. 🤗👍
Hello Martin. Do you know if the drive shaft is greasable on a 04 Durango 545RFE
Do they sell replacement clips?
Do you need to remove the gears to pull these out? I’ve gotta do this to my cousins truck.
No you don't need to remove the side gears. All this can be done with the front cover left in place.
Bardzo pomocne narzędzie .
Is it only outer seals in the rear axle on a jeep wj 4,7 limited from 1999 ?
Yes on a REAR axle there are only outer seals.
I remember watching a mechanic who was trying to remove a half shaft off my Jeep that was on a lift at about head height with a slide hammer. I can't remember how he had it attached but it wouldn't break free. On about the fourth whack it broke free and with the centrifugal force came flying out and almost took his head off.
Yeah on these stubshafts if they've never been pulled out the very 1st time they can put up a fight and that's what's so great about this tool works much better than the screwdriver and hammer method.
We call those axel retaining clips Jesus Clips. You yell Jesus Christ when the clip flies across the shop into nowheres Ville, never to be seen again. Thanks for sharing removal of the inner shaft.
That's why I actually mentioned it because it happened to me. It took me a couple of days, and I found it laying outside.
It's always somethin"
My intermediate shaft on 2010 Mazda CX-9 splines are damaged. Is it possible to rebuild the intermediate shaft instead of buying a brand new one?
If it was my vehicle with damage splines, I would just go ahead and get a new one.Thank you for watching.
@@martinbuilt probably the best way to go about it. Thanks. I’m also rebuilding a 2015 hemi 1500 and I have replaced everything from the camshaft to the rocker arms but I noticed that the valves that are closed the rocker ams are loose. Do you know if this is normal?
Would Lucas oil stabilizer hurt a 3.7
I personally wouldn't use it. I feel the tolerances on the 3.7 and 4.7 are too tight for Lucas oil stabilizer.
@@martinbuilt thanks
That's all fine and dandy but the part you're pulling on is broken off on mine...
💯💯🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹👍👍👍👍👍 Thanks
I'm glad you liked it.🙂👍
Hi Martin, im swaping both differentials in my 98 Dakota to 2000 Durango (Mexico's version) so is there a limited slip or locker to put in the front?
Rear is a 9.25 with limited slip 3.92 gears, in excellent conditions, by the way.
Unfortunately, there is no locker or limited slip available for the front of the truck.
Thank you for watching.
2009 3 quarter ton gmc
Wierd... I posted a reply and now its gone. :-(
That can happen if you happen to swear in your post or anything like that; it could automatically pull your comment.
Nobody is going to remove the entire front end to do that. Ridiculous.
No you're not supposed to remove the front end this was for video purposes only to get a better shot.
Never did I say remove the front end to do this.
I've had many people used the same technique with the front end installed as intended.
Not ALL slide hammer kits are the same!
And im not calling crapon tools to buy this clampon puller,so why not just weld a peice of steel on the end of the bad axle shaft!
See you aren't thinking a one time backyard mechanic fixum up my truck,cyz you have a huge tool box,cuz your probably a full service garage!
Or,since this intermediate axle shaft us garbage, just use a cut off grinding disc and notch it,or weld a nut on the end thread in a bolt,hook up your puller,and slide hammer away!
😅
Not ALL slide hammer kits are the same!
And im not calling crapon tools to buy this clampon puller,so why not just weld a peice of steel on the end of the bad axle shaft!
See you aren't thinking a one time backyard mechanic fixum up my truck,cyz you have a huge tool box,cuz your probably a service garage!
Not ALL slide hammer kits are the same!
And im not calling crapon tools to buy this clampon puller,so why not just weld a peice of steel on the end of the bad axle shaft!
See you aren't thinking a one time backyard mechanic fixum up my truck,cyz you have a huge tool box,cuz your probably a service garage!