Omg thank you so much I don't even care if it's over a year old I've been searching for days for a fix for this problem and here I finally find an absolutely flawless video, it's amazing
Great video! This guy is bright, friendly and easy to listen to. I agree with he pervious comment before me: "... an absolutely flawless video, it's amazing!". Video was clear, concise and direct without the typical busy talk and filler andeither verbal or video tangents. Plus the video itself was actually high quality with clear, visible, steady shots of each part he referenced. A+++++ as far as I am concerned! GREAT JOB!
You saved an embarrassed A/C guy from having to go to a mechanic to get my A/C fixed. I knew where the problem was but dreaded taking the dash apart to get to it. After watching the video I found the mounting screws for the actuator came loose. I had A/C in 15 minutes. Thanks.
I would have to say sir THANK YOU . This video was so helpful and you explained it easy for anyone to work on there own car or truck 👍👍 thanks again sir
Thank you so much! I have been looking at how to take this plug out for days. Not an actuator problem, but I was welding and caught my passenger side dash on fire and the last 2 wires I need to re-route and solder are the blue w/ pink stripe that goes to the blend door actuator and the green w/ yellow stripe that goes to the mode door actuator. This video took some hunting to find, but well worth it. Thank you so much!
Once again you made my day. If you ever get to Hawaii I owe you a MaiTai at the beach. I was facing a long hot drive around the island until I saw this video. Gas pressure low was good but high side was real high. I guessed that means the diverter door isn't switching to the cold side so the evaperator is overheating. On my 2002 the actuater is different and harder to get to but when I pulled the actuator off the mechanism defaulted to cold (I'll fix it later). I'm off to Hilo as cool as a cucumber.
Nice job Martin.You get those couplers when you buy a new blend door.Usually they have been updated to metal.The broken couplers and blend doors are very common with the 3rd gen Ram trucks.I am not sure about the Dakota's.I recently had to replace all of the blend doors in my 2003 Ram 1500.I do like the fact that those couplers are all metal now.💪
Thank you for this. Saved me time and money. Mine was the diverter motor. It defaulted to defrost. Changed it today, at -5 degrees. Hats off to you for getting a camera and yourself in a good spot to make this video.
Lifesaver! I had heard that this was a "pull the whole console" kind of nightmare job and for a lot of money. Figures, dog crap plastic parts. Same as in the Dakota small door pull connectors - plastic garbage. And the seat reclining parts - plastic garbage.
Great video, Martin. I watched your video after driving my wife's 2001 Durango. Ordered three of them because it has the dual side controls. Super cold this week. Hoping it's the motor and not the shaft lever. The heat has not been working at the bottom for a while and she never said anything. I only had heat from the left vent, none in the center dash vents or the floor. I might have to super glue the lever(s)if it's 9more than one) broken?
Hello Martin I have a 2002 jeep grand Cherokee limited I'm trying to fix the radio antenna base on the fender cause it is loose I try Google it and you tube having issue trying to fix it would know how to replace it or tighten the base on the fender need your help.
Thanks for the video so my problem is too hot no control of HVAC temp so I hoping changing actuator like you have shown fixes the problem is there not also a water control valve also?
Hello, I have a knock sound that happens when I turn tge ac on but won’t do it again, and it won’t happen when turn is warm after turning off and getting back in. Any idea on why it might be?
@@josephlininger2677 - yes they all have at least one. they're black, everything else down there is black, and it's dark, so you'll need a good light source 😁. some have 1 some have 2just watch the video a couple of times.
Martin, at around 6:59 of you vid, you said you got the "Coupler" part from "pick-a-part". Is that your local junk yard or a website for parts? I've had to rely on junk yards for most of my 01 Dakota SLT 5.9 and it's been slim pickins here in Arizona. Season is creeping in for cold and my heater just stopped pushing air to the floor! Many thanks and excellent video!!!
Great video clear to the point with out distractions, easy to follow video very specifically to the repair ,were are you located ? my 99 dakota needs some tlc will love it to leave some body like you to take care of the many repairs thxs very much for your videos 👍
I pulled the actuator for the mode door actuator and that little flywheel behind it that indexes into the levers for the various doors fell out and Im not sure how to clock it back into position.
Yes, the same solution, unfortunately, your problem is at the upper actuator. That actuator is just harder to get to. You may need to remove some of the insulation at the firewall to get one of the bolts out.
Hey hopefully you can help me , so my ac works fine its just that sometimes the air changes to my defrost by itself and then back to the setting it was like every 10 minutes you think its an actuator or the control unit? Thank you
I know for the 2011 durango it's a pain for the driver side blend door actuator. 3 star drive screws on the actuator instead of hex, and the gear is totally different and doesn't come with the blend door when you buy it. Driver side gear broke end of spring of 21 and now the passenger side just broke but is on heat at least. I'm told long exposure to heat the inside flapper can melt a little and seize in place, then when the temp is changed it breaks those gears. I have an 02 dodge caravan, guessing it is close to this video for replacement, luckily it has a better heater than the durango for some reason.. Thanks for the vid.
Hi Martin I love your videos brother👍 i’m working on a 04 Dodge Durango I install two blend doors actuators still no heat blower works fine can you help me out with that any info Mel
Nice to see your working It’s in many cars having that problem and that small parts it’s wrong plastic material don’t like heating. Come to shop and pay 💰 at least 200$ so we fixed it’s sucks. You doing it’s super 👍 great
I've got one for you. In our little Dakota, when I first start the truck up, everything works fine. If I go on a trip longer than 20 minutes less and less air comes out the vents until it's eventually not coming out at all. The fan speed doesn't change though.
@@derangedcrawler1280 I have not yet. I replaced in service everything that I can think of... Blend doors vacuum lines heater core evaporator core condenser and AC compressor even though those two had no correlation to it... I haven't figured out and I haven't found anybody who can explain it
My actuators for floor,dash,center vents all blow,my problem is I have low heat is there a different door on the passenger side that maybe an issue no water on floor so heater core isn't leaking....any ideas would help me..thanks
Great video, sir! However, I’m trying to reinstall the other actuator. The one for defrost and vents. Do you have a video on that? I’ve got mine torn apart and I’m up under there and it looks like a nightmare to get back in. Maybe I’m missing something.
Thank you for watching. No, I don't have a video for that actuator, but I do need to do one because I'm having the same problem. Where the actuator is stuck on the vents, and I have no floor or defrost.
@@martinbuilt I just finished pulling mine out and reinstalling. Now I have no dash vents and no defrost. Just footwells. So I did something wrong. But I’ve been reading about a few recalibration procedures that I’m going to try.
My 2003 Dakota defroster is not working properly - barely any air blowing - would this be the other actuator malfunctioning that you mentioned in your video? Thanks.
Wish I had a mechanic like you in my neighborhood - and you are too far from Iowa to run over and have you repair my Dakota. If I can't get it with my limited skills, I have to take it to a dealership.
I have a 08 Durango. And my rear ac clicks now when I turn on the front or rear or both. But than stops clicking after about a minute or two. Just started doing it. But both blow cold. Is it that actuator and or cupler?
My A/C likes to blow out of the defrost vents when going up a hill. I tried replacing the 1 way vacuum valve going into the firewall to no avail. I wonder if this actuator could be the problem? I hear a vacuum leak under the dash too when i shut it down.
Another great video but mine is a 2000 Dakota & it blows warm air on the pass floor when I have the air on. I take it the 2000 & eariler trucks are different. Any tips you can share on those
I have an 01 durango with a 4.7, I replaced the thermostat and along with new antifreeze, flushed out heater core, but still doesn't get hot, it blows out of vents ok but doesn't blow hot like it supposed to, can u tell me your thoughts on what it could be, it also has a new blower fan as well.
Couplers commonly break in these year Durango's and Dakota's because the temperature door warps with heat and age, as well as the insulating foam breaking down and jamming the door(s). The actuator is strong enough to break the coupler or the temp door actuator post, which is all once piece . There was an update for the heater and mode doors replacing all the doors and surround foams as well as case and duct foams. There was also an upgraded part, doors and couplers, the couplers are/were made from aluminum eliminating the actuator from splitting the coupler and not working. Then the mode/ temp actuator doors become the weak link, twisting off the shafts or burning out the actuators. I've already done all the doors and couplers on my Black 2000 Durango SLT 4.7 4x4 with manual Xfer case. The HVAC started acting up in 2015, at 130K miles when I did all the above. I also replaced the Heater Core and A slightly leaky green-with -dye Evaporator, as well as the accumulator and compressor clutch and coil with bearing. The heat and AC works better than it ever did, even brand new, I know, as I've had the truck 22+ years now, and never plan to sell it. One this is for sure, if you like heat, these trucks have it. The AC was never the greatest, a little under sized or under capacity on the refrigerant load prevents proper heat exchange in the hot humid weather. Once it's cold it's fine, but it takes 15-20 minutes of driving to get it there. A stronger cooling clutch and fan sourced from the Humvee with optional heavy duty Desert Cooling package helps out considerably, also keeping engine temps down in Summer when towing on the hottest days with a large load. The Humvee Desert Cooling fan and fan clutch fit the Durango's Mopar water pump, screwing on. The fan diameter fits the fan shroud without any mods, and fit the same on Grand Cherokee's . My 99 WJ 4.0 Laredo 4X4 uses this setup with the electric fan and works great. Heat an AC are also kick butt. On the Durnago, I also have factory electric fans in front of the trans, power steering, evaporator and radiator unit, which come on and work better than stock secondary electric fans alone. Keeping these vehicles cool in summer and warm in winter goes a long way to making the HVAC work better, as well as keeping the other systems cool or hot as the season dictates. This extends the life of the entire powertrain considerably, especially these temperamental 4.7's that don't like running hot, and will eventually drop intake valves if higher than normal temps are experienced regularly. 190-205* is the ideal operating temp range. Even running 210-215 regularly, though not technically overheating, affects the powdered metal valve seats which don't like it. In turn the engine becomes 30-50% more likely to drop an intake valve seat. Keep the 4.7's running cool, with fresh quality engine oil (I use Rotella T4 5W30 summer and winter, changed every 3K miles) and a Wix or Mopar #090 oil filter, these trucks last forever other than some rust. On my Durango it is time for both rocker panels and the rear hatch replaced.. I live in the North East (Hanover Pennsylvania) where we get a lot of moisture and salt on the roads. Everything else is solid and rust free.
@@martinbuilt As always a pleasure to watch your videos, Martin. You always do it right. I always teach the youngsters learning to work on vehicles my Mantra.. "Do It Nice, Or Do It Twice!" This has served me well these 40 years which I've been doing this! Cheers!
@@angrysmileyface78 look online, I think Dorman sold the upgraded door/hinges, actuator couplers, and foam kits. Enter year make model 2 or 4 wheel, engine etc. searching for upgrade/replacement of above parts for sticking or inop. condition. I don't think you can post links here. otherwise I'd do it for you, ,but that will take all the fun out of finding it and learning from the documentation published. A well known issue in late 90's -mid late 00's Durango's, Dakotas, and Grand Cherokees. Cheers!
well gonna see if i can get into a shop, & set mine to heat only. I don't use A.C. but these Prairie Canadian winters are harsh with such little heat in my truck. I have flushed the heater core, & rad. Also changed the thermostat too, so its gotta be this or the switch.
If the mode actuator (right of the one he replaced in the video) isn't working, and you can't get the air to switch to different vents, make sure one of the cams didn't slip out of the cam disk channels. There's one channel on the front that controls the defroster with a long actuator arm, and there are two cam channels on the back for the floor and dashboard air. Both the disk and the arm fell off when I took off the actuator motor, as it's the only thing that holds everything together. It's a severe pita to repair, as you can't see the two cam channels on the back of the disk to line everything up, and you have to get the defrost actuator arm perfectly lined up for it to work. Make sure you take pictures, and remember what "mode" the vents are in, so you don't have to spend 2+ hrs of trial and error like I did!
I have a 98 Durango and several years ago I replaced the heater core and when I got the dash back in, the vents wouldn’t shift from defrost to floor or to vent. I didn’t want to take the dash back out. Now I want to fix this issue. Any advise???
Thanks Martin for a great video! I have a problem with the blend door on my '02 Dakota. The dash was taken out, and both the heater core and the ac exchanger replaced. But the little link (like you showed in you vid) was broken and they said they could not find another, so it was recirculating cabin air only. That was OK during the summer, but then when the cold season got here the heater smelled like it was leaking and fogging up the windshield. Same mechanics said might be blown head gasket. It isn't. From the videos I've seen it looks like it could be the o rings where the lines enter the core. (they by passed the heater) So after all that, do you repair the heater core, or check to see what the problem is? I'm close to you, 200 miles. And finally could you give me a rough estimate of cost and a time frame? Thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy discourse. Thank you again and again! L Hunziker
Maybe a 3D printer would be nice with some of these hard to find parts, I’ve never played with one so I’m just guessing, I’ll be in your neck of the woods come April, great video Martin 👍😁
Thank you. Yeah, I have a 3D printer but My daughter knows how to use it better than I do. You have to come up with the program that would printer it, that would be the hard part. Stop by and say hello when your here.
Great Video, thanx. I’m having an issue with my 08’ Dodge Charger. Dual climate (a/c & heat) with 3 blend door actuators. The drivers side is blowing heat while the car is in a/c and passengers side has a/c (no problems). I replaced the drivers side actuator and the gears looked in tact. I removed the top actuator(driver’s side) and it was missing teeth. I replaced that actuator and tested the car. The problem still exists. Any suggestions?
It's possible that the blend door itself has failed I hope not because that would probably require removing the dash to replace. You could try removing the actuator and manually operating the blend door and see if that works if it makes no difference then it is probably the blend door that is the problem.
Yeah, there should be no issue. Just use section heater hose and hook up each end on the engine so it can at least circulate through. I'm assuming your heater core went bad. Sorry to hear that that's a big job.
I suspect that there is a problem with the resistor for the blower motor. This is located next to the blower motor underneath the glove box. There are 2-8 mm bolts that hold in the resistor. Also, check the electrical connection to the resistor sometimes these overheat , and the connectors and wires will melt, and this can also cause the problem.
Great video. How did you get that video shot so stable? There isn't a lot of room down there. I'd be bumping into the camera all the time. Did you remove the front seat for more room? Also, do you think some super-glue would fix the coupler? Or is it a must replace thing? I was also thinking that if the blend door was hard to rotate, like you showed in the video, maybe that was what caused the coupler to split? 🤷♂️
Thank you. I broke out my little YI LITE camera. They work great for close-up shots. I left the seats in place. It is possible that caused the part to break. Super Glue or a 2 part adhesive may work.
I'm not sure what you're saying. I understand you don't have an A/C compressor anymore, just a pulley in its place. If the blower motor is not operating properly, I would check the resistor located located just left of the blower motor.
Nice video Martin, but I have a question....when you showed the actuator for the defrost/vent/floor - it looked like there was a large piece that might move when actuator selection is done. Have there been any problems with that piece? That is the actuator I will need to replace, so I would kinda like to know what I might be looking at when I would get the actuator off.
Yes there are several pieces behind that actuator that actually can fail. I personally have one broke on mine right now. So the same situation can occur where it is not the actuator but a plastic part that failed.
Mine sounds like it’s blowin off steam now and then. Posted it in the Dakota group longtime ago. People think maybe heater core. I don’t believe that it’s the heater core…
Thxs Martin,I will ck my '06 dakota and see if it the same as your '04...Good info..I just ck Rock Auto for the one that goes to my truck,not part the you replace,and I didn't it see it...But OEM part Actuator is $ 102.79......wow
It was a pretty good video but you're way off on the front actuator by more than a country mile it is not the same as the one that changes it from cold to hot. The actuator that changes it from defrost to heat to vent Etc has an arm that goes way up towards the front and then goes on the Wheel that's behind the actuator and it has to be timed for everything to work. When you take that back actuator off the wheel will fall off guaranteed and there's really no way of marking it ahead of time because it's behind the actuator so it may take a couple times to figure out what position to put it in for everything to work properly. So if you're going to make a video and comment about something you might want to try it to do it first. But I find that on most of these UA-cam videos people making videos when they really don't know what they're talking about I'm not saying you don't because you were right on with the front actuator but the one closest to the rear you were more than a country mile off so maybe you ought to change one and then make another video
Yea my 02 has always had problems with the blendoors, but now it doesn't want to go all the way hot or all the way cold you gotta mess with it for a minute, I thought it was my heater core for a while cause the heat was WEAK and I smell a little antifreeze but no fog on the glass? Last night I finally got it to switch all the way to heat and it was actually hot for once so idk. Old turd chryslers
I have an ‘02 durango. I’ve had since 2004 and the AC has never really cooled all that well. The vents on the outsides of the dash barely blows and air mostly comes from the two middle vents. Also it only blows cold if it’s under 90°F. Is this just a dodge thing? Bad A/C’s? Do other people have this problem?
i swapped the 3 door actuators. the blower fan and the blower fan resistor with the wire harness pigtail. my knob only worked on high setting and it didny blow cold at all. hardly anything from driver side vent. Fixed. the blower motor is too many amps and fries the resistor on the durangos. the wire harness gets fused to the resistor so you just put a new harness in, new resistor and new blower fan and that fixes the amount of air and the turn knob
@@kevinmurphy5132 - I grabbed the resistor from the junk yard and also bought a new 1 from oreilly's. the new resistor has a "lifetime" warranty, so I would always have one on hand 'cause they'd burn out about every year. pull the burned one, replace with on hand, and take dead one to orielly's for a new one. shortened the down time. one day I realized that on the resistor the same pin was always black on any of the dead ones I pulled. I adjusted that pin in the fan plug to make a tighter connection and haven't needed to replace it for 3 yrs now. did the same to my daughter's durango and cured her problem, too. also my neighbor's
Omg thank you so much I don't even care if it's over a year old I've been searching for days for a fix for this problem and here I finally find an absolutely flawless video, it's amazing
Great video! This guy is bright, friendly and easy to listen to. I agree with he pervious comment before me: "... an absolutely flawless video, it's amazing!". Video was clear, concise and direct without the typical busy talk and filler andeither verbal or video tangents. Plus the video itself was actually high quality with clear, visible, steady shots of each part he referenced. A+++++ as far as I am concerned! GREAT JOB!
You saved an embarrassed A/C guy from having to go to a mechanic to get my A/C fixed. I knew where the problem was but dreaded taking the dash apart to get to it. After watching the video I found the mounting screws for the actuator came loose. I had A/C in 15 minutes. Thanks.
That's awesome I'm glad to hear that 😀
Excellent job! Very clear, easy to follow, and informative. No crazy antics or annoying music like some stuff on You Tube. Thanks!
Thank you I really appreciate that, thank you for watching and I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Well that explained MORE than 100 plus other videos I watched before stumbling on yours.
Thank you sir.!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I would have to say sir THANK YOU . This video was so helpful and you explained it easy for anyone to work on there own car or truck 👍👍 thanks again sir
Thank you so much! I have been looking at how to take this plug out for days. Not an actuator problem, but I was welding and caught my passenger side dash on fire and the last 2 wires I need to re-route and solder are the blue w/ pink stripe that goes to the blend door actuator and the green w/ yellow stripe that goes to the mode door actuator. This video took some hunting to find, but well worth it. Thank you so much!
Once again you made my day. If you ever get to Hawaii I owe you a MaiTai at the beach. I was facing a long hot drive around the island until I saw this video. Gas pressure low was good but high side was real high. I guessed that means the diverter door isn't switching to the cold side so the evaperator is overheating. On my 2002 the actuater is different and harder to get to but when I pulled the actuator off the mechanism defaulted to cold (I'll fix it later). I'm off to Hilo as cool as a cucumber.
That's awesome, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. If I make it too Hawaii, I'm gonna take you up on that MaiTai.
Thank you for watching.
Nice job Martin! You need to do more of these, your voice and video skills are on point!
Thank you, that is much apprecited.
LOVE THIS SHOW MARTIN YOUR MY GO TO DODGE MAN!!!!!!
Thank You!!! I never would have figured that out without seeing this video. Well done and easy to follow!
Nice job Martin.You get those couplers when you buy a new blend door.Usually they have been updated to metal.The broken couplers and blend doors are very common with the 3rd gen Ram trucks.I am not sure about the Dakota's.I recently had to replace all of the blend doors in my 2003 Ram 1500.I do like the fact that those couplers are all metal now.💪
Yeah, I was thinking that someone should be making them out of a dicast metal. To replace these fragile plastic ones. Thanks, Dan.
where did you purchase your replacement blend doors?
@@alandaup9486 Uhh did you actually you know WAtch the video?? ----> 1:03
@@DarkSim77 he was asking about where to buy a blend door. Not a blend door actuator. The blend doors seem to be harder to find.
Thank you for this. Saved me time and money. Mine was the diverter motor. It defaulted to defrost. Changed it today, at -5 degrees. Hats off to you for getting a camera and yourself in a good spot to make this video.
Lifesaver! I had heard that this was a "pull the whole console" kind of nightmare job and for a lot of money. Figures, dog crap plastic parts. Same as in the Dakota small door pull connectors - plastic garbage. And the seat reclining parts - plastic garbage.
Thank you. Exactly what I needed to fix!
You're welcome, and I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
having same problem with a o9 dakota. can't find the bolt for the duct, but can see the actuator
Great video, Martin. I watched your video after driving my wife's 2001 Durango. Ordered three of them because it has the dual side controls. Super cold this week. Hoping it's the motor and not the shaft lever. The heat has not been working at the bottom for a while and she never said anything. I only had heat from the left vent, none in the center dash vents or the floor. I might have to super glue the lever(s)if it's 9more than one) broken?
Very clear video, with HD video, no confusion,
Thank you
Does it work for 2012 durango ?
Hello Martin I have a 2002 jeep grand Cherokee limited I'm trying to fix the radio antenna base on the fender cause it is loose I try Google it and you tube having issue trying to fix it would know how to replace it or tighten the base on the fender need your help.
Great video helped me change the part out
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video so my problem is too hot no control of HVAC temp so I hoping changing actuator like you have shown fixes the problem is there not also a water control valve also?
Youve saved me soo sooo sooooo much martin .thank you GodBlessYou
Great video..will help me alot to fix my ac in my durango.thank you so much.
Hello, I have a knock sound that happens when I turn tge ac on but won’t do it again, and it won’t happen when turn is warm after turning off and getting back in. Any idea on why it might be?
thank you for a clear informative video!
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
I have a 2000 Dodge Durango, do I have an actuator? I did t see one
@@josephlininger2677 - yes they all have at least one. they're black, everything else down there is black, and it's dark, so you'll need a good light source 😁. some have 1 some have 2just watch the video a couple of times.
Great video! Very informative, you did an awesome job showing everything . Now i can go fix my truck, Thanks!
Thank you very much Mike I really appreciate that I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thank you for watching.
You saved me some $. Thank you for making the vid.
No problem, I'm glad you found it helpful. 😊
Martin, at around 6:59 of you vid, you said you got the "Coupler" part from "pick-a-part". Is that your local junk yard or a website for parts? I've had to rely on junk yards for most of my 01 Dakota SLT 5.9 and it's been slim pickins here in Arizona. Season is creeping in for cold and my heater just stopped pushing air to the floor! Many thanks and excellent video!!!
Yes, I got that coupler at the local salvage yard. I don't believe you're gonna be able to find it anywhere other than that.
Great video clear to the point with out distractions, easy to follow video very specifically to the repair ,were are you located ? my 99 dakota needs some tlc will love it to leave some body like you to take care of the many repairs thxs very much for your videos 👍
Thank you. I am glad you found it helpful.
I'm in Hendeson NV for now.
Excellent video I think this will work on my 2000 Dakota 3.9 V6 it blows hot air all the time even when the the dual is off
Awesome! This video helped me fix my years long problem!
I changed one of my actuators but now need to recalibrate them. Know how to do that?
I pulled the actuator for the mode door actuator and that little flywheel behind it that indexes into the levers for the various doors fell out and Im not sure how to clock it back into position.
Which actuator do you change for a blinking defrost light? My defrost works though.
great video pal, when AC in use, my '
01 dakota blows cold on driver side and hot on passenger side, is it the same solution?...
Yes, the same solution, unfortunately, your problem is at the upper actuator. That actuator is just harder to get to. You may need to remove some of the insulation at the firewall to get one of the bolts out.
Got it, thanks bud, keep it up.
Do you know where the rear actuator is on a 06 Durango
Holy shit that fade in at the beginning was badass
Yeah one of the cool things I can do with my antique video editor I'm glad you liked it. Thank you for watching 🙂
Hey hopefully you can help me , so my ac works fine its just that sometimes the air changes to my defrost by itself and then back to the setting it was like every 10 minutes you think its an actuator or the control unit? Thank you
I know for the 2011 durango it's a pain for the driver side blend door actuator. 3 star drive screws on the actuator instead of hex, and the gear is totally different and doesn't come with the blend door when you buy it. Driver side gear broke end of spring of 21 and now the passenger side just broke but is on heat at least. I'm told long exposure to heat the inside flapper can melt a little and seize in place, then when the temp is changed it breaks those gears. I have an 02 dodge caravan, guessing it is close to this video for replacement, luckily it has a better heater than the durango for some reason.. Thanks for the vid.
I looked at some caravan's and they are in the same location as the Dakota. The gear or coupler to the actuator is different.
Hi Martin I love your videos brother👍 i’m working on a 04 Dodge Durango I install two blend doors actuators still no heat blower works fine can you help me out with that any info Mel
Would this be the same for the 2002 3.9v6?
I got an 08 Durango that needs the modes fixed . Do you know where that would be ? Can’t find any specs on it
Me gustan tus videos estoi poniendo cadenas de una liberti 3.7 es de mucha utilida tus videos muchas felisidades
Is it the same for 2006 dodge Durango
This by chance pertain to the 99 Dakota as well?
Nice to see your working
It’s in many cars having that problem and that small parts it’s wrong plastic material don’t like heating. Come to shop and pay 💰 at least 200$ so we fixed it’s sucks.
You doing it’s super 👍 great
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.😊👍
I've got one for you. In our little Dakota, when I first start the truck up, everything works fine. If I go on a trip longer than 20 minutes less and less air comes out the vents until it's eventually not coming out at all. The fan speed doesn't change though.
Have you got this resolved? My 2006 dakota does the same thing.
@@derangedcrawler1280 I have not yet. I replaced in service everything that I can think of... Blend doors vacuum lines heater core evaporator core condenser and AC compressor even though those two had no correlation to it... I haven't figured out and I haven't found anybody who can explain it
My actuators for floor,dash,center vents all blow,my problem is I have low heat is there a different door on the passenger side that maybe an issue no water on floor so heater core isn't leaking....any ideas would help me..thanks
Yes if you have dual climate control there'll be a separate actuator for temperature control. And this is more likely the problem.
I know you shared the years it applies to but would you know if the 05 Dakota is somewhat similar ? Thanks
I'm sorry I don't know off hand
Great video, sir! However, I’m trying to reinstall the other actuator. The one for defrost and vents. Do you have a video on that? I’ve got mine torn apart and I’m up under there and it looks like a nightmare to get back in. Maybe I’m missing something.
Thank you for watching. No, I don't have a video for that actuator, but I do need to do one because I'm having the same problem. Where the actuator is stuck on the vents, and I have no floor or defrost.
@@martinbuilt I just finished pulling mine out and reinstalling. Now I have no dash vents and no defrost. Just footwells. So I did something wrong. But I’ve been reading about a few recalibration procedures that I’m going to try.
@@CX0909 Let me know how that turns out.
My 2003 Dakota defroster is not working properly - barely any air blowing - would this be the other actuator malfunctioning that you mentioned in your video? Thanks.
That is correct. A matter of fact mine is doing the same thing and something I'll want to correct before it gets too cold out.
Wish I had a mechanic like you in my neighborhood - and you are too far from Iowa to run over and have you repair my Dakota. If I can't get it with my limited skills, I have to take it to a dealership.
ayy i’m from iowa to😂
Great video, thanx
I have a 08 Durango. And my rear ac clicks now when I turn on the front or rear or both. But than stops clicking after about a minute or two. Just started doing it. But both blow cold. Is it that actuator and or cupler?
Only in the rear unit it clicks on the right rear side inner pannell
My A/C likes to blow out of the defrost vents when going up a hill. I tried replacing the 1 way vacuum valve going into the firewall to no avail. I wonder if this actuator could be the problem? I hear a vacuum leak under the dash too when i shut it down.
Yes, that could be it. If you have a vacuum tester or a smoke leak detector that would be helpful.
Another great video but mine is a 2000 Dakota & it blows warm air on the pass floor when I have the air on. I take it the 2000 & eariler trucks are different. Any tips you can share on those
Did you find any videos on the 2000 truck as I have the same issue with my 2000 truck.
I have an 01 durango with a 4.7, I replaced the thermostat and along with new antifreeze, flushed out heater core, but still doesn't get hot, it blows out of vents ok but doesn't blow hot like it supposed to, can u tell me your thoughts on what it could be, it also has a new blower fan as well.
Then I would be looking at that blend door actuator like in this video that would have to be the problem.
HOW DO YOU SET THE OTHER ONE ON THE WHEEL!?!
Thanks this really helped me out
Glad to hear it!
Couplers commonly break in these year Durango's and Dakota's because the temperature door warps with heat and age, as well as the insulating foam breaking down and jamming the door(s). The actuator is strong enough to break the coupler or the temp door actuator post, which is all once piece .
There was an update for the heater and mode doors replacing all the doors and surround foams as well as case and duct foams. There was also an upgraded part, doors and couplers, the couplers are/were made from aluminum eliminating the actuator from splitting the coupler and not working. Then the mode/ temp actuator doors become the weak link, twisting off the shafts or burning out the actuators.
I've already done all the doors and couplers on my Black 2000 Durango SLT 4.7 4x4 with manual Xfer case. The HVAC started acting up in 2015, at 130K miles when I did all the above. I also replaced the Heater Core and A slightly leaky green-with -dye Evaporator, as well as the accumulator and compressor clutch and coil with bearing. The heat and AC works better than it ever did, even brand new, I know, as I've had the truck 22+ years now, and never plan to sell it.
One this is for sure, if you like heat, these trucks have it. The AC was never the greatest, a little under sized or under capacity on the refrigerant load prevents proper heat exchange in the hot humid weather. Once it's cold it's fine, but it takes 15-20 minutes of driving to get it there. A stronger cooling clutch and fan sourced from the Humvee with optional heavy duty Desert Cooling package helps out considerably, also keeping engine temps down in Summer when towing on the hottest days with a large load.
The Humvee Desert Cooling fan and fan clutch fit the Durango's Mopar water pump, screwing on. The fan diameter fits the fan shroud without any mods, and fit the same on Grand Cherokee's . My 99 WJ 4.0 Laredo 4X4 uses this setup with the electric fan and works great. Heat an AC are also kick butt. On the Durnago, I also have factory electric fans in front of the trans, power steering, evaporator and radiator unit, which come on and work better than stock secondary electric fans alone. Keeping these vehicles cool in summer and warm in winter goes a long way to making the HVAC work better, as well as keeping the other systems cool or hot as the season dictates. This extends the life of the entire powertrain considerably, especially these temperamental 4.7's that don't like running hot, and will eventually drop intake valves if higher than normal temps are experienced regularly.
190-205* is the ideal operating temp range. Even running 210-215 regularly, though not technically overheating, affects the powdered metal valve seats which don't like it. In turn the engine becomes 30-50% more likely to drop an intake valve seat. Keep the 4.7's running cool, with fresh quality engine oil (I use Rotella T4 5W30 summer and winter, changed every 3K miles) and a Wix or Mopar #090 oil filter, these trucks last forever other than some rust. On my Durango it is time for both rocker panels and the rear hatch replaced.. I live in the North East (Hanover Pennsylvania) where we get a lot of moisture and salt on the roads. Everything else is solid and rust free.
Thank you, Phil, for your comment and all your knowledge on the subject of the HVAC system. I appreciate it.🙂👍
@@martinbuilt As always a pleasure to watch your videos, Martin. You always do it right. I always teach the youngsters learning to work on vehicles my Mantra.. "Do It Nice, Or Do It Twice!" This has served me well these 40 years which I've been doing this! Cheers!
Is there a source for the doors and components to upgrade the heater box as well as documentation?
@@angrysmileyface78 www.blenddoorusa.com/
@@angrysmileyface78 look online, I think Dorman sold the upgraded door/hinges, actuator couplers, and foam kits. Enter year make model 2 or 4 wheel, engine etc. searching for upgrade/replacement of above parts for sticking or inop. condition. I don't think you can post links here. otherwise I'd do it for you, ,but that will take all the fun out of finding it and learning from the documentation published. A well known issue in late 90's -mid late 00's Durango's, Dakotas, and Grand Cherokees. Cheers!
well gonna see if i can get into a shop, & set mine to heat only. I don't use A.C. but these Prairie Canadian winters are harsh with such little heat in my truck.
I have flushed the heater core, & rad. Also changed the thermostat too, so its gotta be this or the switch.
My 98 seems to have a different set up😭
thank you, this was helpful
Hello martin would u know what size speedi sleeve i need for my transfer case front drive shaft seal ?? oh its a 2004 grand Cherokee
I believe this is the seal you are looking for.
amzn.to/3IxbVPb
If the mode actuator (right of the one he replaced in the video) isn't working, and you can't get the air to switch to different vents, make sure one of the cams didn't slip out of the cam disk channels. There's one channel on the front that controls the defroster with a long actuator arm, and there are two cam channels on the back for the floor and dashboard air. Both the disk and the arm fell off when I took off the actuator motor, as it's the only thing that holds everything together.
It's a severe pita to repair, as you can't see the two cam channels on the back of the disk to line everything up, and you have to get the defrost actuator arm perfectly lined up for it to work. Make sure you take pictures, and remember what "mode" the vents are in, so you don't have to spend 2+ hrs of trial and error like I did!
I have a 98 Durango and several years ago I replaced the heater core and when I got the dash back in, the vents wouldn’t shift from defrost to floor or to vent. I didn’t want to take the dash back out. Now I want to fix this issue. Any advise???
@@brianhinton8033 I'd recommend checking the vacuum lines for the blend doors under the hood they crack over time with age
Thanks Martin for a great video! I have a problem with the blend door on my '02 Dakota. The dash was taken out, and both the heater core and the ac exchanger replaced. But the little link (like you showed in you vid) was broken and they said they could not find another, so it was recirculating cabin air only. That was OK during the summer, but then when the cold season got here the heater smelled like it was leaking and fogging up the windshield. Same mechanics said might be blown head gasket. It isn't. From the videos I've seen it looks like it could be the o rings where the lines enter the core. (they by passed the heater)
So after all that, do you repair the heater core, or check to see what the problem is? I'm close to you, 200 miles. And finally could you give me a rough estimate of cost and a time frame?
Thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy discourse.
Thank you again and again! L Hunziker
Maybe a 3D printer would be nice with some of these hard to find parts, I’ve never played with one so I’m just guessing, I’ll be in your neck of the woods come April, great video Martin 👍😁
Thank you. Yeah, I have a 3D printer but My daughter knows how to use it better than I do. You have to come up with the program that would printer it, that would be the hard part. Stop by and say hello when your here.
@@martinbuilt thanks Martin I might just do that
Great Video, thanx.
I’m having an issue with my 08’ Dodge Charger. Dual climate (a/c & heat) with 3 blend door actuators. The drivers side is blowing heat while the car is in a/c and passengers side has a/c (no problems). I replaced the drivers side actuator and the gears looked in tact. I removed the top actuator(driver’s side) and it was missing teeth. I replaced that actuator and tested the car. The problem still exists.
Any suggestions?
It's possible that the blend door itself has failed I hope not because that would probably require removing the dash to replace.
You could try removing the actuator and manually operating the blend door and see if that works if it makes no difference then it is probably the blend door that is the problem.
@@martinbuilt I did manipulate the gear with the actuator off and still didn’t get any cool air. Frustrating…
Thanks for your response.
martinbuilt: Can i bypass heater core on a WJ 4,7 without any overheat issues ?
Yeah, there should be no issue. Just use section heater hose and hook up each end on the engine so it can at least circulate through. I'm assuming your heater core went bad. Sorry to hear that that's a big job.
How about a blower fan replacement? Hoping there's an easy fix... it barely blows
me too
@@martinadams7949 you'd like to see any easy fix,or you barely blow? 🤣 Sorry... I'm 48 going on 12...
I suspect that there is a problem with the resistor for the blower motor. This is located next to the blower motor underneath the glove box. There are 2-8 mm bolts that hold in the resistor. Also, check the electrical connection to the resistor sometimes these overheat , and the connectors and wires will melt, and this can also cause the problem.
@@martinbuilt Thx very much... I will check this out!
Great video
Thank you I really appreciate that. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
What is the difference between an blend actuator and a HVAC actuator?
Great video. How did you get that video shot so stable? There isn't a lot of room down there. I'd be bumping into the camera all the time. Did you remove the front seat for more room?
Also, do you think some super-glue would fix the coupler? Or is it a must replace thing? I was also thinking that if the blend door was hard to rotate, like you showed in the video, maybe that was what caused the coupler to split? 🤷♂️
Thank you. I broke out my little YI LITE camera. They work great for close-up shots. I left the seats in place. It is possible that caused the part to break. Super Glue or a 2 part adhesive may work.
Great information and the video was professionally done. Thanks so much.
Outstanding!!! Thank you sir
Thank you I really appreciate that I am glad you liked it and found it helpful.
my 02 durango, very little or no heater fan, someone replaced ac compressor with dorman idler pulley. no defog in pnw not fun, i have a rag.
I'm not sure what you're saying. I understand you don't have an A/C compressor anymore, just a pulley in its place. If the blower motor is not operating properly, I would check the resistor located located just left of the blower motor.
Nice video Martin, but I have a question....when you showed the actuator for the defrost/vent/floor - it looked like there was a large piece that might move when actuator selection is done. Have there been any problems with that piece? That is the actuator I will need to replace, so I would kinda like to know what I might be looking at when I would get the actuator off.
Yes there are several pieces behind that actuator that actually can fail. I personally have one broke on mine right now.
So the same situation can occur where it is not the actuator but a plastic part that failed.
my 2000 dak is controlled by a cable and the vent/def/heat is vacuum
👍👍👍👍👍👍 Thanks 🙋Mr. Martin......from Jordan🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
You are very welcome. I am glad you liked it. 😊
Mine sounds like it’s blowin off steam now and then. Posted it in the Dakota group longtime ago. People think maybe heater core. I don’t believe that it’s the heater core…
If you're saying it fogs up your windshield or if you get a little bit of a smell of antifreeze in the cab it certainly does sound like a heater core.
Thanks for sharing
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful thank you for watching.
Much helper
Thank you!!
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
So all I really need is a pair of thin needle nose or vice grips, damn the actuator lol
I was hoping to see how to remove the top actuator out of a durango. They were telling me I had to take the entire dash out.
No you don't need to take the - out it is difficult but you can definitely get it.
It's just that top screw on the actuator that's hard to get out.
@@martinbuilt Just to clarify, That is the one that will allow my cold air to blow instead of being just hot air. Correct?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 thank you!!
You're very welcome I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful., ☺️
Thank you for watching., 🙂
Thank you...
You're welcome. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful.
Thxs Martin,I will ck my '06 dakota and see if it the same as your '04...Good info..I just ck Rock Auto for the one that goes to my truck,not part the you replace,and I didn't it see it...But OEM part Actuator is $ 102.79......wow
Amazon also has the Mopar actuator AC Heater Blend Door Actuator MOPAR OEM amzn.to/3FoI61C $9.00 cheaper.
@@martinbuilt Thxs Martin as long as it is for my 'o6 dakota,your is a '04,no change?
@@62ejo Mine is a 2001 but, it seems to be in the same location. MOPAR OEM @t
@@martinbuilt Sorry Martin I forgot the yr,but do know if my '06 is the same part as your '01?
@@62ejo the 06 is similar but has 3 bolts that hold it on.
Where is the third actuator? My defrost works the hot to cold works it’s the amount that blows out that doesn’t work
Thank bud 💪🇺🇸💪
Pretty much the exact same procedure and location as the 2005 Grand Cherokee I just did for the old man.
My 2k Dodge Dakota,4.7/v8 is only blowing cold air.
That's what mine was doing. The HVAC is different on 2000. I believe the blend door is on the drive side like mine but vacuum controlled.
@@martinbuilt Is the blend box in the same place in the 2K dodge Dakota,4.7/v8?
Can this be why I hear a knocking sound for a few seconds after I turn off my ac?
Yes that can do it
Same process and parts for 1998 Durango SLT 5.9L? Anybody? Summer is coming and I would like some cool air!
nope, different setup / parts on the 1998.
Is it possible to put an account on lnstagram
I used to post stuff on Instagram and it did absolutely nothing for my channel so I stopped.
It was a pretty good video but you're way off on the front actuator by more than a country mile it is not the same as the one that changes it from cold to hot. The actuator that changes it from defrost to heat to vent Etc has an arm that goes way up towards the front and then goes on the Wheel that's behind the actuator and it has to be timed for everything to work. When you take that back actuator off the wheel will fall off guaranteed and there's really no way of marking it ahead of time because it's behind the actuator so it may take a couple times to figure out what position to put it in for everything to work properly. So if you're going to make a video and comment about something you might want to try it to do it first. But I find that on most of these UA-cam videos people making videos when they really don't know what they're talking about I'm not saying you don't because you were right on with the front actuator but the one closest to the rear you were more than a country mile off so maybe you ought to change one and then make another video
where is your video that does it correctly ?
This is a 96 Dakota
Jb weld it
Yea my 02 has always had problems with the blendoors, but now it doesn't want to go all the way hot or all the way cold you gotta mess with it for a minute, I thought it was my heater core for a while cause the heat was WEAK and I smell a little antifreeze but no fog on the glass? Last night I finally got it to switch all the way to heat and it was actually hot for once so idk. Old turd chryslers
I have an ‘02 durango. I’ve had since 2004 and the AC has never really cooled all that well. The vents on the outsides of the dash barely blows and air mostly comes from the two middle vents. Also it only blows cold if it’s under 90°F. Is this just a dodge thing? Bad A/C’s? Do other people have this problem?
i swapped the 3 door actuators. the blower fan and the blower fan resistor with the wire harness pigtail. my knob only worked on high setting and it didny blow cold at all. hardly anything from driver side vent. Fixed. the blower motor is too many amps and fries the resistor on the durangos. the wire harness gets fused to the resistor so you just put a new harness in, new resistor and new blower fan and that fixes the amount of air and the turn knob
@@kevinmurphy5132 - I grabbed the resistor from the junk yard and also bought a new 1 from oreilly's. the new resistor has a "lifetime" warranty, so I would always have one on hand 'cause they'd burn out about every year. pull the burned one, replace with on hand, and take dead one to orielly's for a new one. shortened the down time.
one day I realized that on the resistor the same pin was always black on any of the dead ones I pulled. I adjusted that pin in the fan plug to make a tighter connection and haven't needed to replace it for 3 yrs now. did the same to my daughter's durango and cured her problem, too. also my neighbor's