Man this 8hp conversion is not for the faint hearted ! Good on you though dealing with the stress of two major unconventional upgrades at the same time!
the hard part is understanding david lamik speak english lol. Bless his soul for being willing and having the same passion as us. Theres one thing that andrew hasnt gone over yet in detail, and that the n57 converter should not be used on single turbo or high hp twin applications because its designed to lockup at under 500rpm and setup for torque at low rpm. its literally 3x as heavy as an a90 converter, and thats with the a90 converter having billet internals. the a90 and the bmw 340i/440i/540i/ b58 converters out of the 8hp45/50 is the one that you want. it requires 4.5mm washers instead of 2.5mm when you have to weld them to the converter plate. both the lamik and the domiworks adapters are 17mm thick, so this data runs true across all 8hp/n54 adapter setups. if you use n57 converter, 2.5mm washers, any b58 converter sits 2mm deeper into the bell housing so add 2mm to that original 2.5mm and youre spot on the money. the crazy part is if you put the a90 converter next to the n57 converter, its 15mm or so shorter than the n57 converter and on paper it looked like a custom 15mm spacer was needed, it turns out they changed the snout of the converter just slightly and recessed the spline grooves between the first and second generation 8hp converters! somehow despite being 15mm shorter, it only requires an extra 2mm of spacing!!!!!! thanks to andrew for the data, i was able to compare all of it with mine and now we have all the data ever needed for this swap! , andrew did the lords work and documented it. My garage looks like an n54 junk yard and i would be to embarassed to show it off lmao.
Amazing! You bloody legend! So glad it started and runs well and some drive is there, Sounds like an auto trans oil issue and also a learning adapting process that I’m sure Lamik will help with! 👍
this is a great series, so pleased to see the motor working well! you forget all the times you have been out of your comfort zone! give yourself some credit mate!!!!
Assuming you deglazed the bores. Breakin will take about 30 minutes once up to temp. Accelerate from 2000 to 3500 at 25% to 50% for 10 sec (this wiil press rings against bore). then foot off throttle for 15 sec. (vacuum will pull oil into cylinder to lube rings). Try to drive this way for 20 min or so (hope you find a lonely road). Then oil and filter change. Great series you are fearless.
Parking sensors working nicely too! 😀 And don’t worry about the bottom end “break-in”, that really isn’t a thing. Other than bringing the car up to temp, the bearings shouldn’t be touching the crank at all! Great work, Andrew!
Well i know a guy who did rod bearings and managed to have an issue after about 30 mins of running. I know the ACL bed in on first crank, but it still made me nervous.
If you are talking the 5mm Allen bolt on the left side of the trans then yes, the car will not go in park AND will cause an error code. Also did you just do the initial fill??? Check fluid level before you have turbo lamik guys troubleshoot.
Yeah i did the proper fill but didnt get it up in to all the gears, so i was wondering if it was a little low. However after this drive i checked it again and its actually ok.
Definitely adapting itself to the car and your driving style. Not saying it’s a problem but personally I don’t like my n54s to idle that low ~650rpm at idle. All 14 of mine liked 800-1000rpm at idle and honestly I think that’s why it’s so hard to move forward, I know ~400 rpm doesn’t sound like much to adjust to but you’re taking it easy barely giving it gas on first drive you can only expect slip, faults, jerks, clunks etc. as you continued to drive it the results proved themselves you got reverse back, it creeps forward better. Mechatronics is filled with pressurized fluid based off your driving style as ALL Auto transmissions with a TQ slip for the comfort of your drive. Be ready for more funny feelings and dilemmas as you start to push the car harder and it learns how you drive. You’ve done an amazing job on this build. Looking to do this swap on my current N54 08’ E70 X5 swap and make it RWD.
@@ZeroTo60Tube you’ve done a great job, if anything bad was going to happen, that time has passed by now. Just be sure to always let that oil come up to temp to not smoke those brand new bearings. Rings will seat as more heat cycles are preformed normally. wish nothing but the best of luck👍
I was going to say maybe trans fluid is low, but noticed you'd answered in other posts that it's at the correct level (and I assume you checked with the trans at the right temp). Does it have a genuine trans filer or aftermarket one? I've experienced a couple of my own trans problems running aftermarket trans filters, where cavitation is an issue and causes slippage, but you'd hear that usually (though not always). Definitely need to bed the rings in though, one thing I didn't say in the last comment though was to make sure oil temp is warm before loading the engine up, that will help protect the bottom end. Other than that, great job on the build, they rarely go smoothly, but it sounds like the motor is in good health and no unusual noises or leaks. Got to be happy with that.
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah that sucks, but at least it's a relatively easy (compared to what you've just done) repair, don't sweat it. If the trans came witht he original pan, throw that back on as the control test, and all you may have lost is a bit fo fluid and time for diagnostic reasons, and you'll know soon enough.
Thanks 👍 The thing still makes me nervous, its done about 500klms now. Most at around 28-30 psi. The car is actually running on a more aggressive tune than it was when it blew up. But still, i worried i have messed something up.
16:30 I've got the same issue not sure how to fix it, I've got wire in the same place as you which fixed my transmission fault but had the same result as you. This is for my E82 135i with a ZF8HP45 transmission.
It moves! Loving this project. Did you check the fluid level after hooking all the trans lines up and running it in? Hopefully not an electrical issue; 1st and reverse are usually tied together in the transmission.
Running a motor in just stays a theory Andrew, i ran my motor just easily just to see if everything is working 😂😂 and then the following morning with a cold start while idling it was dripping condensation already 🤟🏻🤟🏻 and it was party time 😀😀
. This is similar to when people haven't installed the torque converter all the way in (Three clicks then it's in no less from what I've seen and know but maybe different brands etc are different.). But Turbolamik will hopefully guide you through these first driving pains.
Generally or so i have been told, when the torque converter isnt all the way in, you break something when you do the box up. Definitely on the older ones anyway. Could be different on the 8hp as they do have a different style of oil pump
is there anyway the transbrake is activated? probably dumb but when in 1st and trying to move forward, sounds like straight cut reverse gear. but then it creeped in reverse, so i don't know regardless, congrats on everything. looking forward to when it's broken in and getting to see your reaction to WOT
Very similar setup here, followed all your steps , i got the same transmission error as you ,and followed your advice and jumped pins 3 and 4 on that black connector , but now i´m stuck with the same error that apeared to you at the end of this video (at 16:31) , the "select pos.P before leaving car" and my key gets stuck ,did you solved that one? Congrats on the build, best regards ,RG.
This is testing my memory. But there may have been a wire needing to be changed in the car harness or lamik. From memory lamik sends the park signal over a specific pin in the 6hp connector. That needs to go to a specific pin in the car harness.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks a lot for the reply ,from the 8 people i messaged about this you were the only one that responded . You can't remenber what wire was it on the lamik and the car ?, i'm sorry to be such a pain in the a**, but no one seems to want to help me , i'm wiling to pay for your time ,if you could help me. Best regards RG.
Ima fly down and start putting builds together for you so there can be more videos. I’ve been a fiend for these updates on these builds lol 😂. I just want to come fix everything so I can watch more of these videos . 😭
@@ZeroTo60Tube that doesn’t sound to bad. I’ve never been to Australia, sounds like fun. Plus I get to see the cars in person. Sounds like a win win for everyone lol. Might have to price some flight out 😁
I’ve been meaning to ask this for a while, not sure if I’ve missed it on a previous vid but what exhaust are you running on this car? Exhaust options are such a pain for this platform, but this looks and seems to sound nice for an N54
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the honesty, I have the VRSF street exhaust currently. Happy with the sound, fitment is however shocking. Loving the builds so far mate keep up the great work!
HPR-10 or Castrol Supercar 10w60. However that doesnt mean you should use them. Its just what i like. I like thicker oil in our hot climate and a older worn engine
Hey quick question .. What is the part number to the transmission bracket @ 1:07 ? My car is being worked on right now but ebay sent me the wrong trans bracket :/ so im stuck
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the speedy reply. Last question bro! So I got the universal wiring for this swaps since I couldn’t find the 6hp->8hp wiring. Did you use the universal wiring as well ? If so how did you adjust the wiring to fit the e90 / do you have a link to that resource to share ?
I have wanted some since we moved in, to be fair would have only used them 3 or 4 times. And the jack is ok when you have 2 people, just did not want to roll yesterday, mind you the floor is slippery as
If you have the motor sitting there all clean ready to be stripped, i would allow a day, to strip and put it back together. Takes about 2 days to work out what you need to order tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Frustrating because something was clearly wrong and I didn't want to see the next video titled, "I cooked the clutches in my 8hp now what". I was also assuming there was a mechanical issue not a software issue, from the next video it looks like I was right??
Man this 8hp conversion is not for the faint hearted !
Good on you though dealing with the stress of two major unconventional upgrades at the same time!
the hard part is understanding david lamik speak english lol. Bless his soul for being willing and having the same passion as us. Theres one thing that andrew hasnt gone over yet in detail, and that the n57 converter should not be used on single turbo or high hp twin applications because its designed to lockup at under 500rpm and setup for torque at low rpm. its literally 3x as heavy as an a90 converter, and thats with the a90 converter having billet internals. the a90 and the bmw 340i/440i/540i/ b58 converters out of the 8hp45/50 is the one that you want. it requires 4.5mm washers instead of 2.5mm when you have to weld them to the converter plate. both the lamik and the domiworks adapters are 17mm thick, so this data runs true across all 8hp/n54 adapter setups. if you use n57 converter, 2.5mm washers, any b58 converter sits 2mm deeper into the bell housing so add 2mm to that original 2.5mm and youre spot on the money. the crazy part is if you put the a90 converter next to the n57 converter, its 15mm or so shorter than the n57 converter and on paper it looked like a custom 15mm spacer was needed, it turns out they changed the snout of the converter just slightly and recessed the spline grooves between the first and second generation 8hp converters! somehow despite being 15mm shorter, it only requires an extra 2mm of spacing!!!!!! thanks to andrew for the data, i was able to compare all of it with mine and now we have all the data ever needed for this swap! , andrew did the lords work and documented it. My garage looks like an n54 junk yard and i would be to embarassed to show it off lmao.
Amazing! You bloody legend! So glad it started and runs well and some drive is there, Sounds like an auto trans oil issue and also a learning adapting process that I’m sure Lamik will help with! 👍
Sadest thing I heard all day, "I'm going to end this here." lol congrats on the engine build! Can't wait to see the trans work 100%
this is a great series, so pleased to see the motor working well! you forget all the times you have been out of your comfort zone! give yourself some credit mate!!!!
Thanks for the kind words man! We will get there in the end.
Bang on.
@@ZeroTo60Tube 0đđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđšđđđđđđ9đđđđđđđđđđđđđđšđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđšđđđđđđđđđšđđđđšđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđšđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđđšđđđđđđšđđđđđđđšđšđđšđđđđ99999999999999
Nice work man! I'm so glad everything is going good with this build!
For some reason I’m up at 2am in the states seen this had to watch it before I went to bed. 😂
Legend!
Great job! I appreciate you taking this on for the community.
Assuming you deglazed the bores. Breakin will take about 30 minutes once up to temp. Accelerate from 2000 to 3500 at 25% to 50% for 10 sec (this wiil press rings against bore). then foot off throttle for 15 sec. (vacuum will pull oil into cylinder to lube rings). Try to drive this way for 20 min or so (hope you find a lonely road). Then oil and filter change. Great series you are fearless.
Congrats Andrew, the engine sound great! Probably the stand alone TCU has to be 'told' a lot..... Good luck! Dutch regards, Nico.
love it, keep it up :D I love my 8HP build! works amazingly well.
Parking sensors working nicely too! 😀 And don’t worry about the bottom end “break-in”, that really isn’t a thing. Other than bringing the car up to temp, the bearings shouldn’t be touching the crank at all! Great work, Andrew!
Well i know a guy who did rod bearings and managed to have an issue after about 30 mins of running. I know the ACL bed in on first crank, but it still made me nervous.
10/10 great work man!
All the hype seeing the videos.
This amazing. I am very excited to see how far the channel has come. Keep up the amazing work you are a Gem for the N54 community
Thanks a ton!
This is epic. Damn exciting. So many variables, so glad that you got it moving.
If you are talking the 5mm Allen bolt on the left side of the trans then yes, the car will not go in park AND will cause an error code. Also did you just do the initial fill??? Check fluid level before you have turbo lamik guys troubleshoot.
Yeah i did the proper fill but didnt get it up in to all the gears, so i was wondering if it was a little low. However after this drive i checked it again and its actually ok.
Gotta be the settings then.
Crossing fingers that everything goes smooth here. At some point you will need to do the same conversion for the n52. Big up great work
Shouldn't really be any different for the N52 so there'd be no reason to do that
Definitely adapting itself to the car and your driving style. Not saying it’s a problem but personally I don’t like my n54s to idle that low ~650rpm at idle. All 14 of mine liked 800-1000rpm at idle and honestly I think that’s why it’s so hard to move forward, I know ~400 rpm doesn’t sound like much to adjust to but you’re taking it easy barely giving it gas on first drive you can only expect slip, faults, jerks, clunks etc. as you continued to drive it the results proved themselves you got reverse back, it creeps forward better. Mechatronics is filled with pressurized fluid based off your driving style as ALL Auto transmissions with a TQ slip for the comfort of your drive. Be ready for more funny feelings and dilemmas as you start to push the car harder and it learns how you drive. You’ve done an amazing job on this build. Looking to do this swap on my current N54 08’ E70 X5 swap and make it RWD.
I agree with that, i may wind the idle up. I also have cold start turned off which makes it worse.
@@ZeroTo60Tube you’ve done a great job, if anything bad was going to happen, that time has passed by now. Just be sure to always let that oil come up to temp to not smoke those brand new bearings. Rings will seat as more heat cycles are preformed normally. wish nothing but the best of luck👍
Time to send it! 🤙
Engine sounds great Mate ....excellent series
Nice and clean Video! I am happy you made it back from the big road without much issues, could have ended far more complicated😅
Getting better all the time 👍
Man i hope i can do this swap down the road 8hp's are cheaper than finding a DCT where i am.
Cheers from Vancouver :)
Congrats mate
I was going to say maybe trans fluid is low, but noticed you'd answered in other posts that it's at the correct level (and I assume you checked with the trans at the right temp). Does it have a genuine trans filer or aftermarket one? I've experienced a couple of my own trans problems running aftermarket trans filters, where cavitation is an issue and causes slippage, but you'd hear that usually (though not always).
Definitely need to bed the rings in though, one thing I didn't say in the last comment though was to make sure oil temp is warm before loading the engine up, that will help protect the bottom end. Other than that, great job on the build, they rarely go smoothly, but it sounds like the motor is in good health and no unusual noises or leaks. Got to be happy with that.
I think it’s the pan. It is an aftermarket one and have been sent some reviews and people having the same problem 😩
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah that sucks, but at least it's a relatively easy (compared to what you've just done) repair, don't sweat it. If the trans came witht he original pan, throw that back on as the control test, and all you may have lost is a bit fo fluid and time for diagnostic reasons, and you'll know soon enough.
Huge achievement, built motor working smooth, transmission nearly there too 👌🏻
Thanks 👍 The thing still makes me nervous, its done about 500klms now. Most at around 28-30 psi. The car is actually running on a more aggressive tune than it was when it blew up. But still, i worried i have messed something up.
16:30 I've got the same issue not sure how to fix it, I've got wire in the same place as you which fixed my transmission fault but had the same result as you. This is for my E82 135i with a ZF8HP45 transmission.
Hell yeah man good to see it move again 😊
Yeah, but of an annoying issue with the trans, there is something wrong.
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh no that doesn't sound good hopfully it's an easy fix for you
It moves! Loving this project. Did you check the fluid level after hooking all the trans lines up and running it in? Hopefully not an electrical issue; 1st and reverse are usually tied together in the transmission.
Yeah i have checked the fluid since this video as well.... I think the pan may be the culprit.
Running a motor in just stays a theory Andrew, i ran my motor just easily just to see if everything is working 😂😂 and then the following morning with a cold start while idling it was dripping condensation already 🤟🏻🤟🏻 and it was party time 😀😀
Congrats. Nice one
Thank you! Cheers!
. This is similar to when people haven't installed the torque converter all the way in (Three clicks then it's in no less from what I've seen and know but maybe different brands etc are different.). But Turbolamik will hopefully guide you through these first driving pains.
Generally or so i have been told, when the torque converter isnt all the way in, you break something when you do the box up. Definitely on the older ones anyway. Could be different on the 8hp as they do have a different style of oil pump
is there anyway the transbrake is activated? probably dumb but when in 1st and trying to move forward, sounds like straight cut reverse gear. but then it creeped in reverse, so i don't know
regardless, congrats on everything. looking forward to when it's broken in and getting to see your reaction to WOT
So the transbrake you need to be in a program mode and then hold the paddle to activate it. What you are hearing is my issue, trans slip.
What pistons did you end up using. I never caught which ones you ended up picking out of the 3 options
this was amp44
Why is it not going into first gear?
It’s programmed to start in 2nd in this kode
Mode
As soon as you can get some serious pressure on those rings to bed them. Also is the trans fluid completely full?
Yeah checked level again after filming. Still the same.
Very similar setup here, followed all your steps , i got the same transmission error as you ,and followed your advice and jumped pins 3 and 4 on that black connector , but now i´m stuck with the same error that apeared to you at the end of this video (at 16:31) , the "select pos.P before leaving car" and my key gets stuck ,did you solved that one?
Congrats on the build, best regards ,RG.
This is testing my memory. But there may have been a wire needing to be changed in the car harness or lamik.
From memory lamik sends the park signal over a specific pin in the 6hp connector. That needs to go to a specific pin in the car harness.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks a lot for the reply ,from the 8 people i messaged about this you were the only one that responded .
You can't remenber what wire was it on the lamik and the car ?, i'm sorry to be such a pain in the a**, but no one seems to want to help me , i'm wiling to pay for your time ,if you could help me.
Best regards RG.
@@rodrigogomes8755 did you figure out what you needed to do to fix this? I've got the same issue
I’m at the same point and need to figure out what pins need to be shorted together! Any luck?
Ima fly down and start putting builds together for you so there can be more videos. I’ve been a fiend for these updates on these builds lol 😂. I just want to come fix everything so I can watch more of these videos . 😭
hahaha please do!
@@ZeroTo60Tube that doesn’t sound to bad. I’ve never been to Australia, sounds like fun. Plus I get to see the cars in person. Sounds like a win win for everyone lol. Might have to price some flight out 😁
I’ve been meaning to ask this for a while, not sure if I’ve missed it on a previous vid but what exhaust are you running on this car? Exhaust options are such a pain for this platform, but this looks and seems to sound nice for an N54
It's an empire exhaust and it's pretty rubbish. Not happy with it even tho it was quite cheap.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the honesty, I have the VRSF street exhaust currently. Happy with the sound, fitment is however shocking. Loving the builds so far mate keep up the great work!
Oof. I just hope the trans itself is fine. But amazing what you have achieved in this little time so far 👌🏻
Thanks max! We’ll get there in the end
I was thinking maybe the box is low on oil thats why sometimes it was working and then wasn't?
That was my first thought too. But I have checked it since. Oil level is fine.
What engine oil do you use for your car?? In Australia
HPR-10 or Castrol Supercar 10w60. However that doesnt mean you should use them. Its just what i like. I like thicker oil in our hot climate and a older worn engine
Woooooo from Boston!
Hey quick question .. What is the part number to the transmission bracket @ 1:07 ? My car is being worked on right now but ebay sent me the wrong trans bracket :/ so im stuck
I honestly can't remember. But it was from a e90 330d 6hp26 box.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the speedy reply. Last question bro! So I got the universal wiring for this swaps since I couldn’t find the 6hp->8hp wiring. Did you use the universal wiring as well ? If so how did you adjust the wiring to fit the e90 / do you have a link to that resource to share ?
@@isaiasjulio1 I would recomend watching the build series to see what i did. However i used the premade harness.
a am intrested in this progect, i have 740 with n54 , i want to install 8hp
Possible….. although I’d need to do some research. I think it’s been done if I remember correctly. Being an f series it’s an easy ish retrofit
is this a cic retrofit or was it already in?
tought the AT come with ccc
I just have a spare cic controller
Mahle engine break in procedure specifically states to not let the engine idle
Can’t do much about it…. Lol
@@ZeroTo60Tube Maybe you can break in the engine with your standard trans :p
Not if we ever want to see it finished.
@@ZeroTo60Tube It really doesn't matter all too much mate don't worry :)
what exhaust are running
Empire exhaust, its not the best
need longer videos brother 😅
Noted!
Get 2 hydraulic wheel dolly's, way easier to move your car in thight spaces
I have wanted some since we moved in, to be fair would have only used them 3 or 4 times. And the jack is ok when you have 2 people, just did not want to roll yesterday, mind you the floor is slippery as
i wouldnt mind a 6hp26 alloy trans pan from URO if anyone knows where to get hold of 1.
Have you heard from many people using them?
@@ZeroTo60Tube UMM... NOPE
@@1993kawasaki maybe keep it that way lol
great job bro n54 get new life
How much time does it take to build the bottom end? I might just replace my motor with a used one. Not sure what to do.
If you have the motor sitting there all clean ready to be stripped, i would allow a day, to strip and put it back together. Takes about 2 days to work out what you need to order tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I might go at it. Wish more people ran built motors to see reliability with these engines.
Variable load, no high rpm for the first 500, dump the oil then send it :p
Sounds like a plan.
That was frustrating to watch, at least check the fluid levels. And follow the darn instructions.
I had checked the fluid levels, twice prior to this, however had not checked them after driving. Why did you find it frustrating?
@@ZeroTo60Tube Frustrating because something was clearly wrong and I didn't want to see the next video titled, "I cooked the clutches in my 8hp now what". I was also assuming there was a mechanical issue not a software issue, from the next video it looks like I was right??
send it ×2
Seventh!
First!!!
firsttt