Thank you. Yes, it's always a challenge to keep these Shorts under UA-cam's one-minute limit. The good news is that as of this month, UA-cam now allows shorts to extend to three minutes, which I look forward to utilizing.
@@PlumbingsCool same as Massachusetts in that the vent needs to be 2” all the way to larger diameter pipe. 2” is the minimum vent size for a toilet here. Sorry, hope that clears it up.
Yes, it certainly does, thank you! Always interested in learning how things are done in other parts of the world. And you never know...maybe your plumbing Code will come in handy if I ever end up moving down there to the good ol' US of A! 🦅 😁
Yeah, you're not wrong. It's incredible how strict we are with our Plumbing code here in Canada - as if the rules were gospel, and plumbing just couldn't function any other way. However, if you peek over at my Instagram (plumbingscool1), I posted a number of plumbing differences I noticed while over in Italy in the summer, which would be absolute blasphemy or at least frowned upon here in Ontario...yet European plumbing still survives! 😁
Well i must admit your answers are well thought out and informative your obviously a very good plumber and its nice to see someone who really knows what they are doing i enjoyed adding my personal opinions and experiences to your already good answers to every question i hope i did not come off as a know it all im not and dont mean to seem this way ive just got about forty years of experience in all phases of plumbing as i started when i was 16 and wjen graduated high school went right into a union apprenticeship program which consisted of five years of class two nights a week while working in the field daily after that was over i immediately ran to Florida from Massachusetts to escape the weather ive been here ever since that was in 1989 so i figured ive got a trade that i can work anywhere in the country why work in freezing conditions lol my training up there was all commercial work and my residential experience is all here in fla
Thank you...I LOVE Florida! Being from pretty much the same northern latitude you're from (Toronto), I feel your pain with the brutal winters and snow. the south is **SO MUCH** more to my preference...except you're not going to catch me doing any plumbing in those crawlspaces you guys have down there any time soon...with all those creepy-crawlies lurking about! 🐍🕷🐊
Im proud of my union training as i feel as though i was taught by some of the best plumbers and pipefitters in the country and believe me they did a very good job training me on the job as well as in the classroom everywhere ive worked it was a very short time before i was promoted to a lead position and have run many many jobs decent size ones too like five story holiday inns with all cast iron above ground waste piping due to the ceiling being a return air plenum no pvc in there a fire would spread toxic fumes throughout the building needless to say a hotel has a ton of plumbing in it and the mechical room and often times commercial kitchens they have can be labor intensive for real so this is my background and why im wanting to chime in lol you guys are talking my language well besides English ya or no ? Lol good night and again im impressed by your informative well thought out answers its not something you see every day for sure especially online keep up the good work as we not only protect the health of the nation but obviously the better part of the world as well and this is a very important job in my opinion and ive always taken it very seriously as do you apparently bravo
Hi, I hope you are doing good. Considering this layout, I reckon the 3" pipe vertically coming upwards from near the WC is the vent stack. Now comsider a situation where this pipe is removed and also the 1 1/2" vent connecting to it which is coming from the wet vent. Now we fix an AAV on the sanitary tee instead to the 1 1/2" vent pipe. Now consider this bathroom group on Level 2 and consider a washer box in Level 1 which has a 2" vent connected to it. Now the sanitary pipe coming from the washer is also connected to the 3" pipe going down from this bathroom. Please explain wether the venting of the system will work properly or not.
If I understood your description correctly, there would be a few issues with your scenario: There is no 3" vent stack in that scenario...although I do connect the 1-1/2" continuous vent to a 2" branch vent that's serving plumbing on lower storeys. Therefore, you could certainly individually vent the washing machine box on the lower storey (it would not be a wet vent, since you need at least two fixtures to create a wet vent), but the individual vent would need to continue up through the second floor and connect above the flood level rim of the 2nd storey fixtures to prevent an unintentional bypass (similar to the continuous vent in the video). An AAV would not be allowed to pick up fixtures from both storeys because all fixtures being served by an AAV need to be on the same storey - among other restrictions and requirements. Hope this helps.
We'll see what we can do. In the meantime, you may want to look at some of my long-form videos that discuss venting in decent depth: ua-cam.com/video/isHX-CnPiIA/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/df61XD7A8lA/v-deo.htmlsi=jdtH2vf4Iod4WI0A ua-cam.com/video/ry6kVUNeGSU/v-deo.htmlsi=uLwlC0mYkV0lUCSj
Thanks! Yeah, it's really a matter of which Law of the Land is in full effect for each area. Here in Ontario we're to abide by the Ontario Plumbing Code, which generally reflects Canada's National Plumbing Code (but with some additional restrictions).
Technically, it will work, but it's a little more complicated than that, as doing so using a straight-up 2-inch sanitary double TY would violate Code for a number of reasons. The short answer for ensuring Code-compliance would be to: 1. Increase the wet-vent to 3-inch 2. Utilize a 3x1-1/2-inch double sanitary tee to pick up the two symmetrically-connected lavatories (what you and many others refer to as "sinks"). Here's the LONG answer, in case you're interested: Every fixture connected to a plumbing system has what's referred to to as a "Fixture Unit Load" (measured in Fixture Units - or "FU" for short), which is essentially the impact imposed onto the pipe the fixture is discharging into, based on a predetermined discharge volume and expected rate of use of that fixture. For example, a drinking fountain has a value of only 0.5 FU's because the discharge is so minimal, wheras a standard toilet had a load of 4 FU's, because it discharges a significant volume. A standard lavatory (or bathroom "sink") having an 1-1/2" trap, is rated with a fixture unit load of 1.5 FU's. Each drainage pipe size and system can accommodate a varying amount of total Fixture Units discharging into it. To keep things simple, a 2-inch wet vent (as shown in the video), can receive a maximum of 3 FU's discharging INTO it (the most downstream-connected fixture in a wet vent imposes no load on the wet vent, so the toilet is ignored when determining load on the wet vent). Therefore, our 2-inch wet vent shown in the video is already maxed out, because the 1-1/2" lavatory (1.5 FU's) and the 1-1/2" shower (1.5 FU's) adds up to the maximum 3 FU's allowable for a 2" wet vet. Only by increasing the wet vent portion to 3" can you discharge more fixtures into the wet vent (to a maximum of 8 FU's). And now with technicalities and legalities aside, here's the no BS practical reality of it: Your system should work JUST FINE if you add a second lavatory to your that 2" wet vent, because the probability of you utilizing all the fixtures at the same time is minimal...plus there's often so much junk obstructing a lavatory's drainage (strainer, mechanical waste & overflow 1-1/4" tailpiece), that it's flow is naturally obstructed and slowed anyway - thus significantly minimizing the impact the additional lavatory has on the drainage and Venting system. I do recommend that you at least opt for a 2x1-1/2" double Wye with two fitting-in 1-1/2" 45 elbows, instead of a 2x1-1/2" double TY/Sanitary Tee, as the former will better help direct flow downward into the vertical drainage pipe. Hope this helps!
I heard different opinions on using san tee vs wye. Biggest thing coming up is being able to snake one side without going to other side. Is this only/main benefit?
Although ease of snaking is one reason why I like using a double wye instead of a double sanitary tee, it also benefits by directing drainage straight down, whereas as double sanitary tee may cause drainage from one fixture to theoretically shoot upstream toward the other symmetrically connected fitting because it's completely open from one side to the other. This is why we have specific rules when using a double sanitary tee to pick up two fixtures. Specifically, the main run can be no smaller than 3 inches, and the two connecting fixture trap arms can be no larger than 2 inches. This will ensure that flow from one fixture doesn't affect the other. Another legal option is to use a double long-turn TY, which is still a sanitary tee, but with a longer turn radius along each branch to better direct flow downward. A couple of other interesting points for your benefit: If you ever need to snake a double sanitary tee, you can avoid having the snake head go straight through to the the opposite side by using what's called a "drop head" snake attachment that's compatible for your given brand. It's simply a spiral attachment that's on a ball head so that when the snake passes the horizontal inlet, gravity takes over and rotates the snake downward toward the vertical drain instead of continuing vertically. Here's an example of the attachment: www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-small-drop-head-with-rustguard/1001679012?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_All-Products_All+Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-336655210985&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwtNi0BhA1EiwAWZaANGgSy2oz9fJNNjH2OdAP0ANaYxM6W55kByGMvn7upfZ0CfCh4CZMIxoCg_cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Also, I'd like to add that using a Double Wye may be frowned upon by some inspectors, as the vertical drop distance may render the end of the trap arm lower than the protecting vent - thereby choking out the vent, thus theoretically leading to siphoning of the trap (and why "S" traps are illegal). This is why I specified using FITTING-IN elbows: Doing so will raise the centerline between the trap arm, and minimize choking-out of the vent, and should leave "just enough" vertical clearance for the vent to maintain atmospheric pressure within the trap arm, thereby protecting it from direct siphonage. But again, the unofficial reality is lavatories drain so relatively slowly, the trap arm will never fill up to the point that will cause the trap to get siphoned. Hope this helps!
What's the difference between one sink or two where I'm at in fla that would be perfectly fine to have double lavs on that wet vent in south fla were allowed six fixture units on a two inch wet vent so tub or shower is two and ea sink because the po is only inch a. Quarter they are only one fixture unit so that's only four fixture units we could actually pick up another shower or tub on that horizontal wet vent as long as the developed length of the wet vent from the centerline of the three by two wye to the centerline of the sanitary tee or cross is not in excess of fifteen ft of developed length then you have certain distances off the wet vent for fixture branches such as aka tub or shower and of course the arms on the cross tee all have limitations on how far they can run before the pitch gets too much it cuts off the air at the top of the pipe thus eliminating the vent part so please explain to me why a cross tee could not be used in this situation like I said it's done all the time here w out Any issues at all and i personally don't see how it would make any difference at all but I'm always open to learn something new and why it's that way so please don't take this question the wrong way I just explained my thought process and why I'm thinking that way is all I'm not trying to come off as an asshole I'm just very curious as to the thought process of your areas codes wherever that is
I'm never ceased to be amazed by those who are so quick to judge and criticise with such limited information - all for the mere purpose of inflating one's own ego: The zip ties are there because the framer was not yet on site to build the partition; that's an outside wall, and the pipe's needed to be kept inside to prevent freezing. I can assure you that all piping was significantly fastened before the drywall was installed. And its spelled, 'embarrassing'...which is ironic on so many levels. 😁
For a wet vent, is there a restriction on maximum distance from the further fixture drain? Not a plumber, but I know there are some constraints. With this system, does the vent still need to be 6" above flood rim level, or not since it's not a dry system
Here in Ontario/Canada, there is no limit on the developed length of the wet vent; it could theoretically run forever. Also, a fixture drain/trap arm connecting to a wet vent can connect completely horizontally, whereas a dry vent must connect to the fixture drain above the fixture drain's horizontal centerline (to minimize drainage and solids from entering the dry vent since it cannot typically be snaked or serviced). Hope to this addresses your questions!
I have almost the exact arrangement as the vid, except i only have 2 fixtures. And the original piping is 1.5" (old house doing reno) Where you have the toilet, i have a shower, where you have a bathtub i have the lav / vent. Where you have the lav i have nothing, instead it elbows down to a drain perpendicular pipe (drains to the left). Because i dont have a toilet do i need 2" pipe" still? Viewing from the angle of the vid, My shower trap arm is is actually feeding upstream, then loops around as you show from the toilet and then back down via an elbow (in the area where you have the lav). My question is, couldnt my shower, drain directly into the perpendicular drain pipe (rotating trap 180⁰) via an elbow down, i know thus would create an s-trap, so somewhere along the trap arm I would branch horizontal to the wet vent via a wye, this may sound confusing anyway I can send you a diagram? Hopefully you will see thus before weekend🙏
@@rionp912Sure thing. You can send a diagram to me via the email address in my profile. From your description, all I can gather and confirm is that you do NOT need a 2" wet vent if you don't have a toilet. If you're venting only a shower and lav, then you can wet vent one or the other using only 1-1/2"...provided that it's configured properly and meets all the wet venting rules! I would need to see a diagram to better understand your configuration. Also note that my explanation applies to Canadian Plumbing Code, and may not be the same in your area.
The dry part of the vent above where the lav ties in cannot turn to say revent into another vent until it is at least six inches above the flood rim level of the fixture to which it serves for the reason mentioned they do not want any solids having any chance to get into the vent pipe in the event of a stoppage
At least by our Canadian/Provincial rules, the toilet that's part of a wet vented group must ALWAYS be the most downstream fixture of that group, irrespective of whether it's connected vertically or horizontally. The logic behind this is that the excessive volume of water emitted from a toilet can disrupt the trap seals of any respective wet-vented fixtures if they are downstream of it...so the toilet is mandated to be at the very end. And while we're at it, it may benefit you to know that a maximum of TWO toilets can be part of that wet vented group. And if there are two, then they must be connected SYMMETRICALLY so one doesn't affect the other. Further, the province Ontario requires that the two symmetrically-connected toilets be connected on the VERTICAL, whereas Canadian National Code is a little-more loose-goosey by allowing the two Wet-Vented Toilets to connect on the horizontal with the use of a double Wye fitting. Hope this helps!
Yes absolutely...and according to every plumber within each jurisdiction, THEIR code is undoubtedly always the RIGHT Code! 😁 (Yes, plumbers could be a stubborn bunch!)
Sure thing: It's not UPC or IPC, but rather Ontario and Canadian National Building Code. Specifically: 7.5.2.1.(1): A. Soil or Waste pipe may serve as a wet vet provided that: (b) the number of wet vented water closets does not exceed two, (c) when two water closets are installed, they are connected at the same level to a vertical part of the stack by means of a double fitting in accordance with Table 7.2.4.5., (d) the water closets are installed downstream of all other fixtures. Hope this helps!
@@PlumbingsCool I am extremely thankful for your quick and informative reply. I would really appreciate it if you can lend me two more minutes of your expertise and teach me the logical reason for connecting it on downstream?
My pleasure...that's exactly why this channel exists! ☺️ So the logic with toilets needing to be downstream of every other fixture is because they're often the biggest disrupters in the plumbing system, due to the large volume of water they discharge into the drainage system (typically around 6 litres per flush these days). This is why I often refer to them as "the big elephants in the room"... Because there are always special code rules for toilets, and they are often handled differently than other fixtures. Many people think that toilets are vented to protection of their own sake. Although a properly vented toilet DOES certainly help with proper flushing, the REAL benefit of venting toilets is for the protection of OTHER fixture traps! In the case of a wet vent for example, having a toilet UPSTREAM (or before) the connection of other traps means that the toilet's discharge will be passing by those traps. And the aforementioned high volume runs the risk of creating enough negative pressure to suck out the downstream fixtures' trap seals as it passes by. So placing toilets as the last fixture in a wet vented group minimizes the likelihood of interfering with other respective fixtures (and also why any wet-vented toilets in the group must is limited to a maximum of two, and must be connected symmetrically: so each toilet doesn't disrupt the other one.) That's a very brief short answer, but I hope it gives you a general idea of the requirements!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks once again. This explanation really helped. I have one more question though. Why isn't the double pipe system used, one pipe for soil and one separate system for waste?
I'm aware that some parts of the world separate their sanitary drainage between one which emits human waste (toilet, bidets, urinals, etc.) and others which are not designed to. However, here in Canada, any fixture or collection that is NOT storm water (rainfall, snowfall, snow melt, or ground water) is deemed to be SANITARY waste. The sanitary waste is delivered either to the water treatment plant (in municipalities) or to a septic system and leaching (in rural areas, such as farmland). Any storm water may discharge into the building's STORM drainage system, which will discharge either onto the property itself or into a nearby body of water such as a lake or river, because it's considered relatively-harmless clear water waste. Therefore, in effect we too have a "two-pipe" system, except we discern them to be SANITARY and STORM. And the two MUST be kept separate...and the discharge of sanitary into storm is a huge no-no for obvious reasons. Personally, it never made sense to me to have a separate two-pipe system for sanitary systems, because although toilets are definitely made for human waste, it's completely unknown what may be discharging into those "non-sanitary" fixtures, which I'd argue can sometimes be nastier than what a toilet discharges (think: a kitchen sink being exposed to salmonella or e-coli when preparing meats.) Therefore, in my opinion, it should ALL be sanitary, whether there are human solids or otherwise.
Yes, it absolutely does, depending on two factors: the Fixture Unit load imposed onto the continuous vent, as well as the continuous vent's Total Developed Length, measured from the most upstream fixture (the Lavatory, in this case), to a greater source of air (Vent Stack, Stack Vent, Header, or Open Air). This is done using Table 7.5.8.3. in Ontario Code, and 2.5.8.3. in Canadian National Code. For example, an 1-1/2" Continuous Vent can range between as little as 8 Fixture Units up to a maximum length of 30 meters ( ~100 feet), or a maximum of 60 FU's up to 4.5 meters (~15 feet). If that 1-1/2" Continuous Vent pipe is carrying no more than 2 FU's, then there is NO LIMIT on length. Hope this helps!
If the toilet is part of the wet vented group, then yes, it absolutely needs to be. Any fixture connected downstream of the toilet would need to be individually vented.
You are correct...sort of. The only reason the pipe downstream of the 2-inch pipe is 3-inch in size is because that's the minimum drainage size for the toilet. The actual vent for the toilet is the 2" pipe, which is acting as a "two-lane road", so to speak (carrying both drainage from the lavatory and shower, and air to the shower and toilet.) Let's pretend for a moment that there were no fixtures upstream of the toilet: you'd still need a vent for it, except that instead of 2-inch, that upstream pipe is allowed to be sized only 1-1/2-inch because it would be serving only the toilet and only air (no drainage). Hope that makes sense! And thanks for your question!
@@PlumbingsCool imagine we’re looking at a blueprint. 5’x10’ bathroom. Bottom right is the door way, directly across is the LAV. Toilet to the left of lav. Enter doorway, tub and shower is all the way against left wall with a left hand drain. The toilet, LAV, and shower each have a piece of 1’ pipe stobbed out underneath. One single vent pipe, runs down the wall beside the shower drain not connecting to any of the other fixtures. How can I orient the pipes to make this work?
You did a great job at explaining your layout so far efficiently. I'm guessing that if everything is already stubbed out from the ground/floor, then you're dealing with a prefabricated wet-vented 3-piece rough-in that was installed when the house was first constructed. If so, then in most every case, the lav is used to act as the continuous waste & vent (or most upstream fixture). Going by our Canadian rules, you'll know which one is intended to be the most upstream fixture by identifying the stub-out that is 2" in nominal pipe size (which measures 2-1/4" in outside diameter). The other two stub-outs should measure 3" (toilet) and 1-1/2" tub/shower. In a nutshell, you want to run/route the vent to the 2" pipe, and connect it so that it's in a continuous waste & vent configuration as shown in the video. While it's possible for the tub/shower was designed to be the most upstream fixture (which would explain the existing vent's location), it's highly unlikely since the tub/shower would need to be configured in a continuous waste & vent configuration, thereby significantly lower the drainage pipe underground, and also require that the lav have its trap installed below ground as well...not likely. What's unclear is why the ran the vent at the shower side (unless they were just being lazy - which is very possible). So the other thing I would do is confirm which of the smaller pipes have traps below-ground. You can do this by removing/cutting the caps of the two smaller pipes and pouring a cup or so of water down them. Then shine a flashlight and look for a reflection of water, which indicates a trap seal (and therefore a trap). If only one pipe shows a trap seal, then that's definitely your tub & shower. If they BOTH show a trap seal, then they did also put the lav's trap below ground and it's a little trickier to figure out which is the most upstream fixture. If there's NO trap seal present in either two pipes, then the plumber was a hack and you're going to have issues with sewer gas entering your home through your bathtub...but hopefully not. If you need to reroute the vent to the other side (opposite the entrance), then be sure to avoid trapping the vent in any way, which will eventually fill up with condensate/moisture water and cause the trap to become blocked. Hope I understood your scenario properly and this was of some help to you. Let me know if you need any more clarification.
@@PlumbingsCool most likely I need to reroute the vent to a different location, each of these have a 1 1/2 inch pipe minus the toilet and there isn’t any traps underneath the home just a direct 1’ piece of pipe to get through the insulation, would it be possible to use an AAV underneath the sink?
While I'm certainly not an advocate for air admittance valves, I'd reason that an AAV is certainly better than no vent at all. Only be aware that an AAV is not a true and proper vent, because it only allows air IN in the event of negative pressure in the fixture drain, but not OUT. If you do opt for an AAV, be sure to install it as high as high beneath the countertop as possible (next to the sink's sidewall); you don't want drainage water to touch it, which will surely damage it. Also make it accessible so you can unscrew it and replace it if necessary (I have seen them fail). We have other more strict rules, but for your purposes, that will be the most practical way of doing it. Back to your tub & shower: If you truly don't have a trap below the floor, you're going to have much bigger problems than the sink vent. You will need to get a trap beneath there somehow. Truth be told, preinstalled rough-ins almost always need to be opened up and rerouted, because not much care is taken to install them in a practical manner. Also, each bathtub has different dimensions, so an existing trap will almost never be in the place you need it. Hope that makes sense! Good luck. Feel free to let me know how it goes!
The 2" wet vent is tying into a vertically-positioned 3x3x2" ABS Wye fitting. You're allowed to connect the toilet's vent (or wet vent in this case) anywhere within the first vertical meter of the toilet's fixture drain.
Well, I suppose it depends on what you define as hard. If you don't prepare or understand the Code and tables, then yes I'd argue that the exam would prove tricky to pass...not necessarily because you don't know your plumbing, but more specifically because only a portion of the questions are based on traditional plumbing. Aside from the typical drainage, venting and water supply knowledge you need to (and SHOULD!) possess, the government powers that be (in their infinite wisdom! 🙄) also throw in a horde of silly questions which have NOTHING to do with plumbing! To further complicate matters, here in Ontario we teach our apprentices the Ontario (provincial) Code during their three levels of schooling, but their final government Certificate of Qualification exam is based on National Code - which will grant them a "Red Seal" certificate, allowing them to practice across the entire country. We try to help the final-level students with preparing for their exam, but the government doesn't share any knowledge of the exam with the schools, so we as instructors are flying blind. Pretty frustrating and unfair to the students. But what I tell the apprentices is to make sure they know their hardcore plumbing basics inside & out, which will help compensate for more obscure, irrelevant (and quite honestly, DUMB!) questions they may not know the answer to. Some get it in the first attempt, and others may need to take an additional crack or two at it to get the requisite pass of 70%. Hope this helps give you a feel for our testing procedures up here north of the border!
If I'm understanding your question, then I presume for you to mean that your scenario entails only a toilet, and not any other fixture? If that is the case, then no: An individually-vented toilet requires only an 1-1/2" vent, which can theoretically run forever until it connect to another vent pipe at its upstream end.
Anytime I see plastic behind drywall it makes me sad, vapor barriers cause mold, vaper ratarders do not. Never put up plastic inside your house, use a retarder system so the moisture can pass through your walls slowly and be handled by your AC unit instead of being stuck inside your wall blocked by the barrier causing mold.
I'm certainly not an expert in that field, but I think it's been done this way here in Canada for decades upon decades. I think the idea is to prevent moisture from passing through, inside and outside walls, while any moisture which may exist within the outside walls can vent through the tiny weepholes purposely placed throughout the walls of a typical brick construction. Not sure where you're located, but here in Canada the plastic vapour barrier is especially beneficial during the COLD winter months, where the passing of moist air from inside the house to the outer walls will cause condensation...thus leading to mold buildup as you suggest. Generally speaking, I think the system appears to work satisfactory, based upon the countless outer openings I've seen during renos of older buildings. But again...I'm no expert. Best I stick to plumbing!
Vapor barrier goes on the warm side, so when heating house, the warm conditioned air does not condensate inside the outside walls where it's cold. That how I was taught. I always use 6 mil poly on outside walls over the insulation and studs, before sheetrock.
Maybe specify what code you are plumbing to! Ours under UPC requires a w.c. to have a 2“ vtr . Btw your San-t tying your vents together is upside down.
Hi there. This is all Code-compliant as per Part 7 of the Ontario Building Code, as well as to Part 2 of Canada's National Building Code. By "vtr", does that stand for "vent through roof"? If so, then it is not required in our parts; an individually-vented toilet only requires a minimum 1-1/2" vent, with no limit on length. We certainly do need to upsize ALL vents to 3" minimum prior to exiting a roof or wall, but for an entirely unrelated reason: To minimize the likelihood of hoar-frost from choking out the vent during or bitterly cold ❄ winter months. (PHOOEY!! 🥶) The sanitary tee I think you're referring to (the topmost) is correct in practice, because the upside-down weir is supposed to theoretically facilitate the drawing in of air under negative pressure...but realistically, it doesn't really matter on the venting system, considering that even a straight, non-sanitary tee is also completely legal to be installed. But the way you see it is indeed proper practice. On the other hand, the lower sanitary tee is installed with the weir at the bottom, which is intended to direct drainage from the lavatory, and is actually the ONLY allowable legal configuration for conveying drainage through a sanity tee. Hope this helps!
Nope, that shower's drain is 1-1/2-inch which is typical for a single-head shower or bathtub installation. In our code, a 2-inch trap and fixture drain for a shower would be required only if it was serving 2-to-3 shower heads. Note however that doing so would max out that 2-inch went vent and it would need to be upsized to 3-inch! The reason being that here in Ontario, the maximum that can be discharged into a 2-inch wet vent is 3 fixture units (which is the total of the 1-1/2-inch lavatory and 1-1/2-inch shower). A 2-inch shower drain would bring the load up to 4.5 fixture units. (1.5 FU from the lavatory and 3 FU from the 2-inch shower)...hence the need for a 3-inch wet if there were a 2-inch shower...certainly overkill in this scenario. FYI: A 3-inch wet vent serving a toilet can have a load of 8 FU's discharging through the wet vent.
No worries!...asking is how we learn. So yes, the shower's trap is also being protected by the 2-inch wet vent in which the shower's trap arm is connecting to. That point of connection (the wye fitting) allows the shower's DISCHARGE to drain downstream through the wet vent, but also maintain access to the necessary AIRFLOW upstream of the connection, so as to prevent the shower's trap from being siphoned out in the event of negative pressure in the drainage system. Hope that makes sense.
Interesting! How so?...do you guys have your version of wet venting there? BTW: I LOVE Nevada!...one of my favourite states, right up there with Florida.
An individual vent serving a stand-alone toilet (no other fixtures draining through the vent) is only required to be 1-1/2". Think of it this way: When it's acting only as an individual vent, it's only required to carry air, so it's like a single-lane road. However, when you wet-vent, you're now conveying both air AND waste (now that single-lane road has become more like two lanes). Therefore, because the liquid is now taking up space in that vent pipe, we're required to UPSIZE it (using Wet Vent Codebook tables) so that the vent can continue to provide the proper volume of necessary air to the toilet, while also having enough room to deliver waste from the fixtures connected to the wet vent upstream of the toilet uninterrupted. If you're wet-venting a toilet, you're allowed to discharge up to 3 fixture units into the wet vent (there is NO LOAD from the toilet or any other most downstream wet vented fixture). If the discharge going into the wet vent is greater than 3 fixture units, then the wet vent must be up sized to 3" (which allows a maximum of 8 FU's to be discharged into the wet vent serving a toilet). Hope this helps!
this is true but not true, if that is in fact a wet vent for the TOILET you can't vent a toilet with anything smaller than a 2" vent according to UPC. It's hard to tell from this video but that vent looks like it's not for the toilet so this is up to code if that is the case.
The WET vent (from the lav to the toilet) in this case is 2", while the DRY Continuous vent (upstream of the lav) is only 1-1/2". Here in Canada, not only is it 100% legal, but I can easily load up an additional 18 fixture units into that 1-1/2" vent. that's four ADDITIONAL tank-flush toilets!
We are just not allowed to penetrate the roof with anything smaller than two inch so the only time we will even run any inch and a half vent is to revent it into a two or three inch stack going VTR so to just make it idiot proof we just mostly keep all vents two inch and then there's no confusion on the part of the guys that may not know what why or how and are just learning the trade like I said two inch min thru roof anyway so it's redundant to run many 1.5 inch venting I do occasionally if it is beneficial to me or if that's what fittings I may have but I know what I can do and not do i would not start to explain the difference to some of the guys as they are just too green and it's hard enough to teach them how to run the PVC properly as it is I've told you a hundred times!!!!! Yeah but not today ugggggghhh
Yes, it's alive and well, here in Canada, notably in single residential applications - despite common knowledge that if ignited, its fumes are fatally toxic. What's even worse is that CELL core ABS has become increasingly popular because its half the price of solid core (and half the durability!). However, ABS is typically prohibited for any commercial applications or multiple dwelling units/high rise - which require the installation of PVC System 15 to XFR if opting for plastic materials.
Yeah, I've noticed a number of you allude to that south of the border. Here in Canada it is NOT the case. Here's why: Think of Plumbing layout as THREE individually-sized systems. From downstream upward, you've got: 1. The drain (liquid only) 2. The wet vent (air and liquid) - like a two-lane road 3. The continuous vent (air only) Each one of these systems had its own sizing table. The only reason why the wet vent is larger is because it needs to accommodate for TWO mediums: Air and water. Hope to that makes sense!
Yeah, it's funny. We're so strict on venting and respective sizing, yet our Code approves the conditional use of an air admittance valve (or "cheater" vent). The standard ASSE-approved Oatey SureVent claims 24 fixture units, which is equivalent to convey drainage for up to SIX tank-flush toilets!...yet, have you seen how tiny air inlet slots are on those those AAV's? Madness!
Yea its completely rediculous Haha! At any rate, you keep up the good work my friend, we all have to bend to our governing jurisdictions, no matter how contradicting! LOL
Close, but not exactly: There WAS no bathroom there..or ANY plumbing, as a matter of fact. The customer wanted to install an ensuite in the kid's rather spacious 2nd floor bedroom. There was nothing in that corner - not even the 3" stack or water lines, which I tied in in the basement and brought up to the second floor during a previous construction phase of the house and capped for future about a year later. Fun project; it's always fun to make something from where there was nothing. 😊
Good eye...because it is! 😁. However, it's also less than 6 feet, which (as of January 1st, 2014 here in Ontario) is perfectly legal. The maximum length for 1-1/2" trap arms is 5'-11" (or 1.8 meters) to be exact.
@@PlumbingsCoolwell it's why we always run two inch on our fixture branches thus being able to run up to eight feet in developed length to the crown weir of the trap to the center line of the wye a shower drain is two inch so why would it not be run in two inch I would not decrease the size of the pipe picking up a shower especially a tub sure because it's only a inch and a half drain on the waste and overflow anyway and yes we are only allowed five feet of length from the crown weir to the center line of the wye or combination wye and eighth bend fitting it's what we refer to as a combo fitting a wye and forty five all molded into one fitting as opposed to having to use both
There is no 3x2" Tee. There is a 3x2" Wye standing vertically that's elbowing with a 3" 90° elbow at the top to pick up the toilet, and 2" 45° and 90° elbows coming off the Wye's branch to pick up the vent. There's nothing illegal or incorrect about it here in Canada.
Oh, you mean the 2x1-1/2" TY. No, having the wier at the top is proper plumbung practice. Look at it this way: any air introduced into the system is going to come from open air above. Installing the wier at the top directs the air to flow more smoothly in and out of the vent terminal as pressure differentials fluctuate. But here's the thing: In reality, it doesn't really matter where that wier gets installed because the air's going flow regardless ("air no care!" 😁) Want more proof? You had mentioned a "Tee" in your initial post, which is COMPLETELY absent of a wier...AND PERFECTLY LEGAL! If you were referring to drainage (such as the lavatory's TY, which has its wier at the bottom), then yes, I'd completely agree with you.
@@PlumbingsCool okay its hard to see everything but now that i have more info. That 2x1-1/2” twye for your vent is upside down there is no way around it. Air dont care but there is still ways for better air flow. Also most importantly it is an easy way to identify that it is a vent stack.
Then what would you deem to be the optimal way to install a tee (with no weir) to ensure maximum airflow? Tees are allowed for venting in your jurisdiction, I presume? Also, that 2" vent is not a vent stack by our definition, but rather branch vent; which are two different things. Even if it were a vent stack, the "proper" way (again, it doesn't really matter) for installing a TY would be with the weir at the top of the branch opening...thus allowing the air to "swoop" in more smoothly from the air source, which originates from above, not from below.
You're not wrong, depending on what you're referring to by "vent". The WET vent (the pipe between the toilet and the lav) needs to be 2 inch because it's carrying air AND liquid (and I assure you that it is!). However, the dry CONTINUOUS vent (the pipe upstream of the lavatory's TY) only needs to be 1-1/2 inch.
You're absolutely right! Note that ndividual trap size requirements reign supreme. You have to size the piping as if each fixture were individually vented. For example, a stand-alone toilet (3-inch trap) requires an 1-1/2" individual vent no matter what. Although technically our continuous vent sizing tables renders 1-1/4" piping large enough to supply air to all three of those fixtures based on accumulated fixture units in this case, 6 Fixture Units for a Bathroom Group) individual trap sizing requires that we upsize the continuous vent to 1-1/2" specifically because there's a toilet in the mix. The only time you would need it upsize that continuous vent to 2" is if it's LENGTH exceeded the maximum allowable requirements based on the fixture units it were carrying...which is certainly not going to happen in this case: That 1-1/2" needs to have a developed length greater than 15 meters (50 feet) to open air before requiring an upsize to 2"!
LOL..I wouldn't be surprised. I was in Europe last year and there were "properly-installed" S-traps galore. And guess what? They worked too! Physics works differently, depending where in the world you are! 😂
Not sure where you're from, but this is absolutely, unquestionably correct and legal in Canada. There is no distinction made whether the connections are made at wye's main run or the branch, as long as the wye is properly installed in the direction of flow. Finally, the wet-vent IS a continuous 2-inch size throughout. Don't confuse the piping upstream of the lavatory, which is no longer a wet vent (air and discharge), but rather a continuous vent (air only). Hope this helps clear things up. 😁
Hmmm...not sure which vent you're referring to. The wet vent or the continuous vent? The wet vent is 2" in size throughout, and the continuous vent is 1-1/2" - proper and absolutely legal beyond any shadow of a doubt here in Canada. Specifically, that 1-1/2" vent is allowed to convey eight fixture units for up to a whopping distance of 30 meters (100 feet!)...or 20 FU's for a distance of 15 meters (50 feet) before it needs to be upsized to 2-inch. In this scenario, it's only serving 6 fixture units (Bathroom Group) and is terminating through the roof to open air at a mere distance of only about eight feet. TONS of air! 😁
The primary purpose of those zip ties are to prevent the copper lines from unintentionally rattling inside the walls, and to support the piping until the framer was able to come in to install the wood studs. Following installation of the drywall and studs, those stub-outs are now rock-solid, which I wouldn't accept any other way. I know there's certainly no Code issue with such a setup here in Canada; I'd be very interested to learn about where you're from, and the specific clause in your area's Codebook which renders such a setup as illegal, and why. Thanks for your feedback!
You're correct in that all three fixtures are likely not going to be utilized in unison, but that has nothing to do with wet venting, which is maximizing efficiency of piping. What you're referring to has more to do with fixture unit load - and the Powers That Be also recognise that not all three fixtures will be used in concert - which is why you're allowed to refer to such a configuration as a Bathroom Group, officially valued at only 6 Fixture Units, as opposed to 6.5 Fixture Units if their loads were tallied independently.
Canadian Code Table 2.5.8.1: smallest diameter of any wet vent serving a toilet is 2"
This is a great explanation. So easy to understand for me. I'm definitely visual
Thanks very much! I agree...visual always makes things so much easier to understand, which is what I always strive for. 👍 Thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool so the vent for the shower is that main vent (the one behind toilet)?
I call that demonstration over explanation.
Great short video, thank you!
Thank you! Delighted that you liked it!
Luv the explanation
Thanks so much!
Dude, you are a life saver. I can’t tell you how many videos, pics, forums I’ve looked at that never showed my config. Thank you.
Thanks so much...can't express how much that means! 🙏. Delighted you got use out of it! 👌
Very brief , but the visual editing exception.
Thank you. Yes, it's always a challenge to keep these Shorts under UA-cam's one-minute limit. The good news is that as of this month, UA-cam now allows shorts to extend to three minutes, which I look forward to utilizing.
In Massachusetts it has to be 2” all the way through to the rough when wet venting
Yeah, I'm guessing you guys are un UPC. Here in Canada you can run several toilets on an 1-1/2" vet, depending upon its developed length.
Same in ILLINOIS
Do you mean thatIllinois is UPC, or closer to our Canadian sizing rules?
@@PlumbingsCool same as Massachusetts in that the vent needs to be 2” all the way to larger diameter pipe. 2” is the minimum vent size for a toilet here. Sorry, hope that clears it up.
Yes, it certainly does, thank you! Always interested in learning how things are done in other parts of the world. And you never know...maybe your plumbing Code will come in handy if I ever end up moving down there to the good ol' US of A! 🦅 😁
I’m the uk we don’t do secondary venting but I have cut and removed a lot of it but we don’t install it as regulations.
Yeah, you're not wrong. It's incredible how strict we are with our Plumbing code here in Canada - as if the rules were gospel, and plumbing just couldn't function any other way. However, if you peek over at my Instagram (plumbingscool1), I posted a number of plumbing differences I noticed while over in Italy in the summer, which would be absolute blasphemy or at least frowned upon here in Ontario...yet European plumbing still survives! 😁
Well i must admit your answers are well thought out and informative your obviously a very good plumber and its nice to see someone who really knows what they are doing i enjoyed adding my personal opinions and experiences to your already good answers to every question i hope i did not come off as a know it all im not and dont mean to seem this way ive just got about forty years of experience in all phases of plumbing as i started when i was 16 and wjen graduated high school went right into a union apprenticeship program which consisted of five years of class two nights a week while working in the field daily after that was over i immediately ran to Florida from Massachusetts to escape the weather ive been here ever since that was in 1989 so i figured ive got a trade that i can work anywhere in the country why work in freezing conditions lol my training up there was all commercial work and my residential experience is all here in fla
Thank you...I LOVE Florida! Being from pretty much the same northern latitude you're from (Toronto), I feel your pain with the brutal winters and snow. the south is **SO MUCH** more to my preference...except you're not going to catch me doing any plumbing in those crawlspaces you guys have down there any time soon...with all those creepy-crawlies lurking about! 🐍🕷🐊
Im proud of my union training as i feel as though i was taught by some of the best plumbers and pipefitters in the country and believe me they did a very good job training me on the job as well as in the classroom everywhere ive worked it was a very short time before i was promoted to a lead position and have run many many jobs decent size ones too like five story holiday inns with all cast iron above ground waste piping due to the ceiling being a return air plenum no pvc in there a fire would spread toxic fumes throughout the building needless to say a hotel has a ton of plumbing in it and the mechical room and often times commercial kitchens they have can be labor intensive for real so this is my background and why im wanting to chime in lol you guys are talking my language well besides English ya or no ? Lol good night and again im impressed by your informative well thought out answers its not something you see every day for sure especially online keep up the good work as we not only protect the health of the nation but obviously the better part of the world as well and this is a very important job in my opinion and ive always taken it very seriously as do you apparently bravo
Thanks for all your insight and kind words!
Hi, I hope you are doing good.
Considering this layout, I reckon the 3" pipe vertically coming upwards from near the WC is the vent stack. Now comsider a situation where this pipe is removed and also the 1 1/2" vent connecting to it which is coming from the wet vent. Now we fix an AAV on the sanitary tee instead to the 1 1/2" vent pipe. Now consider this bathroom group on Level 2 and consider a washer box in Level 1 which has a 2" vent connected to it. Now the sanitary pipe coming from the washer is also connected to the 3" pipe going down from this bathroom.
Please explain wether the venting of the system will work properly or not.
If I understood your description correctly, there would be a few issues with your scenario: There is no 3" vent stack in that scenario...although I do connect the 1-1/2" continuous vent to a 2" branch vent that's serving plumbing on lower storeys. Therefore, you could certainly individually vent the washing machine box on the lower storey (it would not be a wet vent, since you need at least two fixtures to create a wet vent), but the individual vent would need to continue up through the second floor and connect above the flood level rim of the 2nd storey fixtures to prevent an unintentional bypass (similar to the continuous vent in the video). An AAV would not be allowed to pick up fixtures from both storeys because all fixtures being served by an AAV need to be on the same storey - among other restrictions and requirements.
Hope this helps.
@@PlumbingsCoolThanks. Can you please make more detailed videos on the vents.
We'll see what we can do. In the meantime, you may want to look at some of my long-form videos that discuss venting in decent depth:
ua-cam.com/video/isHX-CnPiIA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/df61XD7A8lA/v-deo.htmlsi=jdtH2vf4Iod4WI0A
ua-cam.com/video/ry6kVUNeGSU/v-deo.htmlsi=uLwlC0mYkV0lUCSj
Looks good man! Weird how some places require the continuous vent to be piped as 2"
Thanks! Yeah, it's really a matter of which Law of the Land is in full effect for each area. Here in Ontario we're to abide by the Ontario Plumbing Code, which generally reflects Canada's National Plumbing Code (but with some additional restrictions).
Could you convert the sink into 2 simply by using a double san tee and no extra vent plumbing?
Technically, it will work, but it's a little more complicated than that, as doing so using a straight-up 2-inch sanitary double TY would violate Code for a number of reasons.
The short answer for ensuring Code-compliance would be to:
1. Increase the wet-vent to 3-inch
2. Utilize a 3x1-1/2-inch double sanitary tee to pick up the two symmetrically-connected lavatories (what you and many others refer to as "sinks").
Here's the LONG answer, in case you're interested:
Every fixture connected to a plumbing system has what's referred to to as a "Fixture Unit Load" (measured in Fixture Units - or "FU" for short), which is essentially the impact imposed onto the pipe the fixture is discharging into, based on a predetermined discharge volume and expected rate of use of that fixture.
For example, a drinking fountain has a value of only 0.5 FU's because the discharge is so minimal, wheras a standard toilet had a load of 4 FU's, because it discharges a significant volume. A standard lavatory (or bathroom "sink") having an 1-1/2" trap, is rated with a fixture unit load of 1.5 FU's.
Each drainage pipe size and system can accommodate a varying amount of total Fixture Units discharging into it.
To keep things simple, a 2-inch wet vent (as shown in the video), can receive a maximum of 3 FU's discharging INTO it (the most downstream-connected fixture in a wet vent imposes no load on the wet vent, so the toilet is ignored when determining load on the wet vent).
Therefore, our 2-inch wet vent shown in the video is already maxed out, because the 1-1/2" lavatory (1.5 FU's) and the 1-1/2" shower (1.5 FU's) adds up to the maximum 3 FU's allowable for a 2" wet vet. Only by increasing the wet vent portion to 3" can you discharge more fixtures into the wet vent (to a maximum of 8 FU's).
And now with technicalities and legalities aside, here's the no BS practical reality of it:
Your system should work JUST FINE if you add a second lavatory to your that 2" wet vent, because the probability of you utilizing all the fixtures at the same time is minimal...plus there's often so much junk obstructing a lavatory's drainage (strainer, mechanical waste & overflow 1-1/4" tailpiece), that it's flow is naturally obstructed and slowed anyway - thus significantly minimizing the impact the additional lavatory has on the drainage and Venting system.
I do recommend that you at least opt for a 2x1-1/2" double Wye with two fitting-in 1-1/2" 45 elbows, instead of a 2x1-1/2" double TY/Sanitary Tee, as the former will better help direct flow downward into the vertical drainage pipe.
Hope this helps!
Thanks!
I heard different opinions on using san tee vs wye. Biggest thing coming up is being able to snake one side without going to other side. Is this only/main benefit?
Although ease of snaking is one reason why I like using a double wye instead of a double sanitary tee, it also benefits by directing drainage straight down, whereas as double sanitary tee may cause drainage from one fixture to theoretically shoot upstream toward the other symmetrically connected fitting because it's completely open from one side to the other.
This is why we have specific rules when using a double sanitary tee to pick up two fixtures. Specifically, the main run can be no smaller than 3 inches, and the two connecting fixture trap arms can be no larger than 2 inches. This will ensure that flow from one fixture doesn't affect the other.
Another legal option is to use a double long-turn TY, which is still a sanitary tee, but with a longer turn radius along each branch to better direct flow downward.
A couple of other interesting points for your benefit:
If you ever need to snake a double sanitary tee, you can avoid having the snake head go straight through to the the opposite side by using what's called a "drop head" snake attachment that's compatible for your given brand. It's simply a spiral attachment that's on a ball head so that when the snake passes the horizontal inlet, gravity takes over and rotates the snake downward toward the vertical drain instead of continuing vertically. Here's an example of the attachment:
www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-small-drop-head-with-rustguard/1001679012?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00_Corporate_GGL_Shopping_All-Products_All+Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-336655210985&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwtNi0BhA1EiwAWZaANGgSy2oz9fJNNjH2OdAP0ANaYxM6W55kByGMvn7upfZ0CfCh4CZMIxoCg_cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Also, I'd like to add that using a Double Wye may be frowned upon by some inspectors, as the vertical drop distance may render the end of the trap arm lower than the protecting vent - thereby choking out the vent, thus theoretically leading to siphoning of the trap (and why "S" traps are illegal). This is why I specified using FITTING-IN elbows: Doing so will raise the centerline between the trap arm, and minimize choking-out of the vent, and should leave "just enough" vertical clearance for the vent to maintain atmospheric pressure within the trap arm, thereby protecting it from direct siphonage.
But again, the unofficial reality is lavatories drain so relatively slowly, the trap arm will never fill up to the point that will cause the trap to get siphoned.
Hope this helps!
What's the difference between one sink or two where I'm at in fla that would be perfectly fine to have double lavs on that wet vent in south fla were allowed six fixture units on a two inch wet vent so tub or shower is two and ea sink because the po is only inch a. Quarter they are only one fixture unit so that's only four fixture units we could actually pick up another shower or tub on that horizontal wet vent as long as the developed length of the wet vent from the centerline of the three by two wye to the centerline of the sanitary tee or cross is not in excess of fifteen ft of developed length then you have certain distances off the wet vent for fixture branches such as aka tub or shower and of course the arms on the cross tee all have limitations on how far they can run before the pitch gets too much it cuts off the air at the top of the pipe thus eliminating the vent part so please explain to me why a cross tee could not be used in this situation like I said it's done all the time here w out Any issues at all and i personally don't see how it would make any difference at all but I'm always open to learn something new and why it's that way so please don't take this question the wrong way I just explained my thought process and why I'm thinking that way is all I'm not trying to come off as an asshole I'm just very curious as to the thought process of your areas codes wherever that is
😂😂😂😂😂 Gotta love the zip ties on the water lines! Emberessing to say the least.
I'm never ceased to be amazed by those who are so quick to judge and criticise with such limited information - all for the mere purpose of inflating one's own ego:
The zip ties are there because the framer was not yet on site to build the partition; that's an outside wall, and the pipe's needed to be kept inside to prevent freezing. I can assure you that all piping was significantly fastened before the drywall was installed.
And its spelled, 'embarrassing'...which is ironic on so many levels. 😁
You’re kidding right 😂
For a wet vent, is there a restriction on maximum distance from the further fixture drain? Not a plumber, but I know there are some constraints. With this system, does the vent still need to be 6" above flood rim level, or not since it's not a dry system
Here in Ontario/Canada, there is no limit on the developed length of the wet vent; it could theoretically run forever. Also, a fixture drain/trap arm connecting to a wet vent can connect completely horizontally, whereas a dry vent must connect to the fixture drain above the fixture drain's horizontal centerline (to minimize drainage and solids from entering the dry vent since it cannot typically be snaked or serviced).
Hope to this addresses your questions!
I have almost the exact arrangement as the vid, except i only have 2 fixtures. And the original piping is 1.5" (old house doing reno)
Where you have the toilet, i have a shower,
where you have a bathtub i have the lav / vent.
Where you have the lav i have nothing, instead it elbows down to a drain perpendicular pipe (drains to the left).
Because i dont have a toilet do i need 2" pipe" still? Viewing from the angle of the vid, My shower trap arm is is actually feeding upstream, then loops around as you show from the toilet and then back down via an elbow (in the area where you have the lav).
My question is, couldnt my shower, drain directly into the perpendicular drain pipe (rotating trap 180⁰) via an elbow down, i know thus would create an s-trap, so somewhere along the trap arm I would branch horizontal to the wet vent via a wye, this may sound confusing anyway I can send you a diagram? Hopefully you will see thus before weekend🙏
@@rionp912Sure thing. You can send a diagram to me via the email address in my profile.
From your description, all I can gather and confirm is that you do NOT need a 2" wet vent if you don't have a toilet. If you're venting only a shower and lav, then you can wet vent one or the other using only 1-1/2"...provided that it's configured properly and meets all the wet venting rules! I would need to see a diagram to better understand your configuration.
Also note that my explanation applies to Canadian Plumbing Code, and may not be the same in your area.
The dry part of the vent above where the lav ties in cannot turn to say revent into another vent until it is at least six inches above the flood rim level of the fixture to which it serves for the reason mentioned they do not want any solids having any chance to get into the vent pipe in the event of a stoppage
I thought toilet only has to be most downstream fixture in vertical wet venting but doesn't matter in horizontal wet venting?
At least by our Canadian/Provincial rules, the toilet that's part of a wet vented group must ALWAYS be the most downstream fixture of that group, irrespective of whether it's connected vertically or horizontally.
The logic behind this is that the excessive volume of water emitted from a toilet can disrupt the trap seals of any respective wet-vented fixtures if they are downstream of it...so the toilet is mandated to be at the very end.
And while we're at it, it may benefit you to know that a maximum of TWO toilets can be part of that wet vented group. And if there are two, then they must be connected SYMMETRICALLY so one doesn't affect the other.
Further, the province Ontario requires that the two symmetrically-connected toilets be connected on the VERTICAL, whereas Canadian National Code is a little-more loose-goosey by allowing the two Wet-Vented Toilets to connect on the horizontal with the use of a double Wye fitting.
Hope this helps!
@@PlumbingsCool thanks for responding!
I guess some codes are different across the world
Yes absolutely...and according to every plumber within each jurisdiction, THEIR code is undoubtedly always the RIGHT Code! 😁
(Yes, plumbers could be a stubborn bunch!)
Please explain why the WC is connected on the downstream, is it specified in IPC or UPC?
Sure thing: It's not UPC or IPC, but rather Ontario and Canadian National Building Code.
Specifically:
7.5.2.1.(1): A. Soil or Waste pipe may serve as a wet vet provided that:
(b) the number of wet vented water closets does not exceed two,
(c) when two water closets are installed, they are connected at the same level to a vertical part of the stack by means of a double fitting in accordance with Table 7.2.4.5.,
(d) the water closets are installed downstream of all other fixtures.
Hope this helps!
@@PlumbingsCool
I am extremely thankful for your quick and informative reply. I would really appreciate it if you can lend me two more minutes of your expertise and teach me the logical reason for connecting it on downstream?
My pleasure...that's exactly why this channel exists! ☺️
So the logic with toilets needing to be downstream of every other fixture is because they're often the biggest disrupters in the plumbing system, due to the large volume of water they discharge into the drainage system (typically around 6 litres per flush these days). This is why I often refer to them as "the big elephants in the room"... Because there are always special code rules for toilets, and they are often handled differently than other fixtures.
Many people think that toilets are vented to protection of their own sake. Although a properly vented toilet DOES certainly help with proper flushing, the REAL benefit of venting toilets is for the protection of OTHER fixture traps! In the case of a wet vent for example, having a toilet UPSTREAM (or before) the connection of other traps means that the toilet's discharge will be passing by those traps. And the aforementioned high volume runs the risk of creating enough negative pressure to suck out the downstream fixtures' trap seals as it passes by. So placing toilets as the last fixture in a wet vented group minimizes the likelihood of interfering with other respective fixtures (and also why any wet-vented toilets in the group must is limited to a maximum of two, and must be connected symmetrically: so each toilet doesn't disrupt the other one.)
That's a very brief short answer, but I hope it gives you a general idea of the requirements!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks once again. This explanation really helped.
I have one more question though.
Why isn't the double pipe system used, one pipe for soil and one separate system for waste?
I'm aware that some parts of the world separate their sanitary drainage between one which emits human waste (toilet, bidets, urinals, etc.) and others which are not designed to. However, here in Canada, any fixture or collection that is NOT storm water (rainfall, snowfall, snow melt, or ground water) is deemed to be SANITARY waste. The sanitary waste is delivered either to the water treatment plant (in municipalities) or to a septic system and leaching (in rural areas, such as farmland).
Any storm water may discharge into the building's STORM drainage system, which will discharge either onto the property itself or into a nearby body of water such as a lake or river, because it's considered relatively-harmless clear water waste.
Therefore, in effect we too have a "two-pipe" system, except we discern them to be SANITARY and STORM. And the two MUST be kept separate...and the discharge of sanitary into storm is a huge no-no for obvious reasons.
Personally, it never made sense to me to have a separate two-pipe system for sanitary systems, because although toilets are definitely made for human waste, it's completely unknown what may be discharging into those "non-sanitary" fixtures, which I'd argue can sometimes be nastier than what a toilet discharges (think: a kitchen sink being exposed to salmonella or e-coli when preparing meats.) Therefore, in my opinion, it should ALL be sanitary, whether there are human solids or otherwise.
for the contineous vent does length matter when sizing?
Yes, it absolutely does, depending on two factors: the Fixture Unit load imposed onto the continuous vent, as well as the continuous vent's Total Developed Length, measured from the most upstream fixture (the Lavatory, in this case), to a greater source of air (Vent Stack, Stack Vent, Header, or Open Air). This is done using Table 7.5.8.3. in Ontario Code, and 2.5.8.3. in Canadian National Code.
For example, an 1-1/2" Continuous Vent can range between as little as 8 Fixture Units up to a maximum length of 30 meters ( ~100 feet), or a maximum of 60 FU's up to 4.5 meters (~15 feet). If that 1-1/2" Continuous Vent pipe is carrying no more than 2 FU's, then there is NO LIMIT on length.
Hope this helps!
The toilet doesn’t always need to be most downstream does it?
If the toilet is part of the wet vented group, then yes, it absolutely needs to be. Any fixture connected downstream of the toilet would need to be individually vented.
Yes and I'm confused as to how you could even do it any other way to be honest with you .
So the vent just ties into the 3” which is the vent for the toilet?
You are correct...sort of. The only reason the pipe downstream of the 2-inch pipe is 3-inch in size is because that's the minimum drainage size for the toilet. The actual vent for the toilet is the 2" pipe, which is acting as a "two-lane road", so to speak (carrying both drainage from the lavatory and shower, and air to the shower and toilet.)
Let's pretend for a moment that there were no fixtures upstream of the toilet: you'd still need a vent for it, except that instead of 2-inch, that upstream pipe is allowed to be sized only 1-1/2-inch because it would be serving only the toilet and only air (no drainage).
Hope that makes sense! And thanks for your question!
I need some serious help I have a weird plumbing layout.
Can you elaborate on your issue?
@@PlumbingsCool imagine we’re looking at a blueprint.
5’x10’ bathroom.
Bottom right is the door way, directly across is the LAV. Toilet to the left of lav.
Enter doorway, tub and shower is all the way against left wall with a left hand drain.
The toilet, LAV, and shower each have a piece of 1’ pipe stobbed out underneath.
One single vent pipe, runs down the wall beside the shower drain not connecting to any of the other fixtures.
How can I orient the pipes to make this work?
You did a great job at explaining your layout so far efficiently. I'm guessing that if everything is already stubbed out from the ground/floor, then you're dealing with a prefabricated wet-vented 3-piece rough-in that was installed when the house was first constructed. If so, then in most every case, the lav is used to act as the continuous waste & vent (or most upstream fixture). Going by our Canadian rules, you'll know which one is intended to be the most upstream fixture by identifying the stub-out that is 2" in nominal pipe size (which measures 2-1/4" in outside diameter). The other two stub-outs should measure 3" (toilet) and 1-1/2" tub/shower.
In a nutshell, you want to run/route the vent to the 2" pipe, and connect it so that it's in a continuous waste & vent configuration as shown in the video.
While it's possible for the tub/shower was designed to be the most upstream fixture (which would explain the existing vent's location), it's highly unlikely since the tub/shower would need to be configured in a continuous waste & vent configuration, thereby significantly lower the drainage pipe underground, and also require that the lav have its trap installed below ground as well...not likely.
What's unclear is why the ran the vent at the shower side (unless they were just being lazy - which is very possible).
So the other thing I would do is confirm which of the smaller pipes have traps below-ground. You can do this by removing/cutting the caps of the two smaller pipes and pouring a cup or so of water down them. Then shine a flashlight and look for a reflection of water, which indicates a trap seal (and therefore a trap). If only one pipe shows a trap seal, then that's definitely your tub & shower. If they BOTH show a trap seal, then they did also put the lav's trap below ground and it's a little trickier to figure out which is the most upstream fixture. If there's NO trap seal present in either two pipes, then the plumber was a hack and you're going to have issues with sewer gas entering your home through your bathtub...but hopefully not.
If you need to reroute the vent to the other side (opposite the entrance), then be sure to avoid trapping the vent in any way, which will eventually fill up with condensate/moisture water and cause the trap to become blocked.
Hope I understood your scenario properly and this was of some help to you. Let me know if you need any more clarification.
@@PlumbingsCool most likely I need to reroute the vent to a different location, each of these have a 1 1/2 inch pipe minus the toilet and there isn’t any traps underneath the home just a direct 1’ piece of pipe to get through the insulation, would it be possible to use an AAV underneath the sink?
While I'm certainly not an advocate for air admittance valves, I'd reason that an AAV is certainly better than no vent at all. Only be aware that an AAV is not a true and proper vent, because it only allows air IN in the event of negative pressure in the fixture drain, but not OUT. If you do opt for an AAV, be sure to install it as high as high beneath the countertop as possible (next to the sink's sidewall); you don't want drainage water to touch it, which will surely damage it. Also make it accessible so you can unscrew it and replace it if necessary (I have seen them fail). We have other more strict rules, but for your purposes, that will be the most practical way of doing it.
Back to your tub & shower: If you truly don't have a trap below the floor, you're going to have much bigger problems than the sink vent. You will need to get a trap beneath there somehow. Truth be told, preinstalled rough-ins almost always need to be opened up and rerouted, because not much care is taken to install them in a practical manner. Also, each bathtub has different dimensions, so an existing trap will almost never be in the place you need it.
Hope that makes sense! Good luck. Feel free to let me know how it goes!
@Plumbings cool what is that 2inch line tied into because i can't see it by the toilet
The 2" wet vent is tying into a vertically-positioned 3x3x2" ABS Wye fitting. You're allowed to connect the toilet's vent (or wet vent in this case) anywhere within the first vertical meter of the toilet's fixture drain.
@PlumbingsCool thank you I thought that's what it was tied into
@plumbings cool I'm here in Michigan and I think Canada shares the same codes is the journeyman test that hard to pass
Well, I suppose it depends on what you define as hard. If you don't prepare or understand the Code and tables, then yes I'd argue that the exam would prove tricky to pass...not necessarily because you don't know your plumbing, but more specifically because only a portion of the questions are based on traditional plumbing. Aside from the typical drainage, venting and water supply knowledge you need to (and SHOULD!) possess, the government powers that be (in their infinite wisdom! 🙄) also throw in a horde of silly questions which have NOTHING to do with plumbing! To further complicate matters, here in Ontario we teach our apprentices the Ontario (provincial) Code during their three levels of schooling, but their final government Certificate of Qualification exam is based on National Code - which will grant them a "Red Seal" certificate, allowing them to practice across the entire country. We try to help the final-level students with preparing for their exam, but the government doesn't share any knowledge of the exam with the schools, so we as instructors are flying blind. Pretty frustrating and unfair to the students.
But what I tell the apprentices is to make sure they know their hardcore plumbing basics inside & out, which will help compensate for more obscure, irrelevant (and quite honestly, DUMB!) questions they may not know the answer to.
Some get it in the first attempt, and others may need to take an additional crack or two at it to get the requisite pass of 70%.
Hope this helps give you a feel for our testing procedures up here north of the border!
@@PlumbingsCool thanks it did
If the sanitary is only venting the toilet, does it need to be 2 in as well?
If I'm understanding your question, then I presume for you to mean that your scenario entails only a toilet, and not any other fixture? If that is the case, then no: An individually-vented toilet requires only an 1-1/2" vent, which can theoretically run forever until it connect to another vent pipe at its upstream end.
So what happens if you have two vents and spray hot water down them to flush out all the roaches?
What happens is that you end up with cooked roaches! 😁
Or at least warm roaches they are pretty resilient lol
Anytime I see plastic behind drywall it makes me sad, vapor barriers cause mold, vaper ratarders do not. Never put up plastic inside your house, use a retarder system so the moisture can pass through your walls slowly and be handled by your AC unit instead of being stuck inside your wall blocked by the barrier causing mold.
I'm certainly not an expert in that field, but I think it's been done this way here in Canada for decades upon decades. I think the idea is to prevent moisture from passing through, inside and outside walls, while any moisture which may exist within the outside walls can vent through the tiny weepholes purposely placed throughout the walls of a typical brick construction. Not sure where you're located, but here in Canada the plastic vapour barrier is especially beneficial during the COLD winter months, where the passing of moist air from inside the house to the outer walls will cause condensation...thus leading to mold buildup as you suggest.
Generally speaking, I think the system appears to work satisfactory, based upon the countless outer openings I've seen during renos of older buildings.
But again...I'm no expert. Best I stick to plumbing!
Vapor barrier goes on the warm side, so when heating house, the warm conditioned air does not condensate inside the outside walls where it's cold. That how I was taught. I always use 6 mil poly on outside walls over the insulation and studs, before sheetrock.
Maybe specify what code you are plumbing to! Ours under UPC requires a w.c. to have a 2“ vtr . Btw your San-t tying your vents together is upside down.
Hi there. This is all Code-compliant as per Part 7 of the Ontario Building Code, as well as to Part 2 of Canada's National Building Code. By "vtr", does that stand for "vent through roof"? If so, then it is not required in our parts; an individually-vented toilet only requires a minimum 1-1/2" vent, with no limit on length. We certainly do need to upsize ALL vents to 3" minimum prior to exiting a roof or wall, but for an entirely unrelated reason: To minimize the likelihood of hoar-frost from choking out the vent during or bitterly cold ❄ winter months. (PHOOEY!! 🥶)
The sanitary tee I think you're referring to (the topmost) is correct in practice, because the upside-down weir is supposed to theoretically facilitate the drawing in of air under negative pressure...but realistically, it doesn't really matter on the venting system, considering that even a straight, non-sanitary tee is also completely legal to be installed. But the way you see it is indeed proper practice.
On the other hand, the lower sanitary tee is installed with the weir at the bottom, which is intended to direct drainage from the lavatory, and is actually the ONLY allowable legal configuration for conveying drainage through a sanity tee.
Hope this helps!
your a bozo 😂😂😂 its not upside down
Full size 2" clean out?
2" clean out where? Could you please elaborate?
Is the pipe coming from the shower also 2”?
Nope, that shower's drain is 1-1/2-inch which is typical for a single-head shower or bathtub installation. In our code, a 2-inch trap and fixture drain for a shower would be required only if it was serving 2-to-3 shower heads. Note however that doing so would max out that 2-inch went vent and it would need to be upsized to 3-inch!
The reason being that here in Ontario, the maximum that can be discharged into a 2-inch wet vent is 3 fixture units (which is the total of the 1-1/2-inch lavatory and 1-1/2-inch shower). A 2-inch shower drain would bring the load up to 4.5 fixture units. (1.5 FU from the lavatory and 3 FU from the 2-inch shower)...hence the need for a 3-inch wet if there were a 2-inch shower...certainly overkill in this scenario.
FYI: A 3-inch wet vent serving a toilet can have a load of 8 FU's discharging through the wet vent.
@@PlumbingsCool so is the shower wet venting through the same pipe? Sorry, I’m a complete novice
No worries!...asking is how we learn.
So yes, the shower's trap is also being protected by the 2-inch wet vent in which the shower's trap arm is connecting to. That point of connection (the wye fitting) allows the shower's DISCHARGE to drain downstream through the wet vent, but also maintain access to the necessary AIRFLOW upstream of the connection, so as to prevent the shower's trap from being siphoned out in the event of negative pressure in the drainage system.
Hope that makes sense.
@Plumbings cool I'm confused about the DFU's how would a 2inch drain for a shower in this diagram equal to 4.5 DFU's if including the lav and tub
Ipc or upc?
Not IPC, UPC...but rather NPC: National Plumbing Code (of Canada)!
Codes are way different in Nevada.
Interesting! How so?...do you guys have your version of wet venting there?
BTW: I LOVE Nevada!...one of my favourite states, right up there with Florida.
So if I installed a toilet only, does the vent need to be 2 inch or can it be 1.5inch?
An individual vent serving a stand-alone toilet (no other fixtures draining through the vent) is only required to be 1-1/2".
Think of it this way: When it's acting only as an individual vent, it's only required to carry air, so it's like a single-lane road.
However, when you wet-vent, you're now conveying both air AND waste (now that single-lane road has become more like two lanes). Therefore, because the liquid is now taking up space in that vent pipe, we're required to UPSIZE it (using Wet Vent Codebook tables) so that the vent can continue to provide the proper volume of necessary air to the toilet, while also having enough room to deliver waste from the fixtures connected to the wet vent upstream of the toilet uninterrupted.
If you're wet-venting a toilet, you're allowed to discharge up to 3 fixture units into the wet vent (there is NO LOAD from the toilet or any other most downstream wet vented fixture). If the discharge going into the wet vent is greater than 3 fixture units, then the wet vent must be up sized to 3" (which allows a maximum of 8 FU's to be discharged into the wet vent serving a toilet).
Hope this helps!
this is true but not true, if that is in fact a wet vent for the TOILET you can't vent a toilet with anything smaller than a 2" vent according to UPC. It's hard to tell from this video but that vent looks like it's not for the toilet so this is up to code if that is the case.
The WET vent (from the lav to the toilet) in this case is 2", while the DRY Continuous vent (upstream of the lav) is only 1-1/2".
Here in Canada, not only is it 100% legal, but I can easily load up an additional 18 fixture units into that 1-1/2" vent. that's four ADDITIONAL tank-flush toilets!
We are just not allowed to penetrate the roof with anything smaller than two inch so the only time we will even run any inch and a half vent is to revent it into a two or three inch stack going VTR so to just make it idiot proof we just mostly keep all vents two inch and then there's no confusion on the part of the guys that may not know what why or how and are just learning the trade like I said two inch min thru roof anyway so it's redundant to run many 1.5 inch venting I do occasionally if it is beneficial to me or if that's what fittings I may have but I know what I can do and not do i would not start to explain the difference to some of the guys as they are just too green and it's hard enough to teach them how to run the PVC properly as it is I've told you a hundred times!!!!! Yeah but not today ugggggghhh
I cant belive abs is still used, its completely banned where im from but seeing rough ins with it is crazy
Yes, it's alive and well, here in Canada, notably in single residential applications - despite common knowledge that if ignited, its fumes are fatally toxic. What's even worse is that CELL core ABS has become increasingly popular because its half the price of solid core (and half the durability!).
However, ABS is typically prohibited for any commercial applications or multiple dwelling units/high rise - which require the installation of PVC System 15 to XFR if opting for plastic materials.
Cant reduce a vent size... not here in MN anyway. So, Minnesotans, that 2" needs to continue beyond that lav.
Yeah, I've noticed a number of you allude to that south of the border. Here in Canada it is NOT the case. Here's why:
Think of Plumbing layout as THREE individually-sized systems. From downstream upward, you've got:
1. The drain (liquid only)
2. The wet vent (air and liquid) - like a two-lane road
3. The continuous vent (air only)
Each one of these systems had its own sizing table. The only reason why the wet vent is larger is because it needs to accommodate for TWO mediums: Air and water.
Hope to that makes sense!
Makes perfect sense, our code just states otherwise and that would fail inspection here. I do 100% agree with you though
Yeah, it's funny. We're so strict on venting and respective sizing, yet our Code approves the conditional use of an air admittance valve (or "cheater" vent). The standard ASSE-approved Oatey SureVent claims 24 fixture units, which is equivalent to convey drainage for up to SIX tank-flush toilets!...yet, have you seen how tiny air inlet slots are on those those AAV's?
Madness!
Yea its completely rediculous Haha! At any rate, you keep up the good work my friend, we all have to bend to our governing jurisdictions, no matter how contradicting! LOL
looks like someone is doing a bathroom reno
Close, but not exactly: There WAS no bathroom there..or ANY plumbing, as a matter of fact. The customer wanted to install an ensuite in the kid's rather spacious 2nd floor bedroom. There was nothing in that corner - not even the 3" stack or water lines, which I tied in in the basement and brought up to the second floor during a previous construction phase of the house and capped for future about a year later.
Fun project; it's always fun to make something from where there was nothing. 😊
That shower looks more then 5 feet from that vent
Good eye...because it is! 😁. However, it's also less than 6 feet, which (as of January 1st, 2014 here in Ontario) is perfectly legal. The maximum length for 1-1/2" trap arms is 5'-11" (or 1.8 meters) to be exact.
@@PlumbingsCoolwell it's why we always run two inch on our fixture branches thus being able to run up to eight feet in developed length to the crown weir of the trap to the center line of the wye a shower drain is two inch so why would it not be run in two inch I would not decrease the size of the pipe picking up a shower especially a tub sure because it's only a inch and a half drain on the waste and overflow anyway and yes we are only allowed five feet of length from the crown weir to the center line of the wye or combination wye and eighth bend fitting it's what we refer to as a combo fitting a wye and forty five all molded into one fitting as opposed to having to use both
That 3x2 tee should be flipped around
There is no 3x2" Tee. There is a 3x2" Wye standing vertically that's elbowing with a 3" 90° elbow at the top to pick up the toilet, and 2" 45° and 90° elbows coming off the Wye's branch to pick up the vent.
There's nothing illegal or incorrect about it here in Canada.
@@PlumbingsCool im talking about your vent fitting. The tee wye should be flipped around for proper air flow
Oh, you mean the 2x1-1/2" TY. No, having the wier at the top is proper plumbung practice. Look at it this way: any air introduced into the system is going to come from open air above. Installing the wier at the top directs the air to flow more smoothly in and out of the vent terminal as pressure differentials fluctuate.
But here's the thing: In reality, it doesn't really matter where that wier gets installed because the air's going flow regardless ("air no care!" 😁)
Want more proof? You had mentioned a "Tee" in your initial post, which is COMPLETELY absent of a wier...AND PERFECTLY LEGAL!
If you were referring to drainage (such as the lavatory's TY, which has its wier at the bottom), then yes, I'd completely agree with you.
@@PlumbingsCool okay its hard to see everything but now that i have more info. That 2x1-1/2” twye for your vent is upside down there is no way around it. Air dont care but there is still ways for better air flow. Also most importantly it is an easy way to identify that it is a vent stack.
Then what would you deem to be the optimal way to install a tee (with no weir) to ensure maximum airflow? Tees are allowed for venting in your jurisdiction, I presume?
Also, that 2" vent is not a vent stack by our definition, but rather branch vent; which are two different things. Even if it were a vent stack, the "proper" way (again, it doesn't really matter) for installing a TY would be with the weir at the top of the branch opening...thus allowing the air to "swoop" in more smoothly from the air source, which originates from above, not from below.
Needs to be a two inch vent because of the toilet
You're not wrong, depending on what you're referring to by "vent". The WET vent (the pipe between the toilet and the lav) needs to be 2 inch because it's carrying air AND liquid (and I assure you that it is!). However, the dry CONTINUOUS vent (the pipe upstream of the lavatory's TY) only needs to be 1-1/2 inch.
@@PlumbingsCool your toilet is still connected to that DRY vent so it would need to remain 2 inch throughout.
@coltonmorquecho6665 why? It's only AIR not drainage.
You're absolutely right! Note that ndividual trap size requirements reign supreme. You have to size the piping as if each fixture were individually vented. For example, a stand-alone toilet (3-inch trap) requires an 1-1/2" individual vent no matter what. Although technically our continuous vent sizing tables renders 1-1/4" piping large enough to supply air to all three of those fixtures based on accumulated fixture units in this case, 6 Fixture Units for a Bathroom Group) individual trap sizing requires that we upsize the continuous vent to 1-1/2" specifically because there's a toilet in the mix.
The only time you would need it upsize that continuous vent to 2" is if it's LENGTH exceeded the maximum allowable requirements based on the fixture units it were carrying...which is certainly not going to happen in this case: That 1-1/2" needs to have a developed length greater than 15 meters (50 feet) to open air before requiring an upsize to 2"!
Different plumbing codes I’m assuming
Fun fact I have three sinks with no vents, and never had any problems whatsoever
LOL..I wouldn't be surprised. I was in Europe last year and there were "properly-installed" S-traps galore. And guess what? They worked too! Physics works differently, depending where in the world you are! 😂
Its wrong. The tub needs to be on the run of the wye and the sink needs to be on the branch of the wye. Also wet vents need to run 2" all the way up.
Not sure where you're from, but this is absolutely, unquestionably correct and legal in Canada. There is no distinction made whether the connections are made at wye's main run or the branch, as long as the wye is properly installed in the direction of flow.
Finally, the wet-vent IS a continuous 2-inch size throughout. Don't confuse the piping upstream of the lavatory, which is no longer a wet vent (air and discharge), but rather a continuous vent (air only).
Hope this helps clear things up. 😁
😂😂😂
😯
That vent needs to be 2 inch all the way. I would not run it like this at all
Hmmm...not sure which vent you're referring to. The wet vent or the continuous vent? The wet vent is 2" in size throughout, and the continuous vent is 1-1/2" - proper and absolutely legal beyond any shadow of a doubt here in Canada.
Specifically, that 1-1/2" vent is allowed to convey eight fixture units for up to a whopping distance of 30 meters (100 feet!)...or 20 FU's for a distance of 15 meters (50 feet) before it needs to be upsized to 2-inch. In this scenario, it's only serving 6 fixture units (Bathroom Group) and is terminating through the roof to open air at a mere distance of only about eight feet.
TONS of air! 😁
😂😂those zip ties holding the waterline lavatory vent is absolutely not up to code
The primary purpose of those zip ties are to prevent the copper lines from unintentionally rattling inside the walls, and to support the piping until the framer was able to come in to install the wood studs. Following installation of the drywall and studs, those stub-outs are now rock-solid, which I wouldn't accept any other way.
I know there's certainly no Code issue with such a setup here in Canada; I'd be very interested to learn about where you're from, and the specific clause in your area's Codebook which renders such a setup as illegal, and why.
Thanks for your feedback!
The irony is, how many of you multi tasking fools use the 3 fixtures in concert? 😮
You're correct in that all three fixtures are likely not going to be utilized in unison, but that has nothing to do with wet venting, which is maximizing efficiency of piping.
What you're referring to has more to do with fixture unit load - and the Powers That Be also recognise that not all three fixtures will be used in concert - which is why you're allowed to refer to such a configuration as a Bathroom Group, officially valued at only 6 Fixture Units, as opposed to 6.5 Fixture Units if their loads were tallied independently.
Fail. You must up size the vent as well. On a toilet it’s minimum 2” and you reduced to 1 1/2” at the lavy San tee. FAIL!
Sure. Because you say so. 😁
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