Відео

Yeah, it can be a little tricky. Make sure that the water filter is fully pushed in, otherwise the pin won't reinsert. Also, the pin goes in at a bit of an angle, and if I recall, one leg is a little longer than the other. Make sure that you have ample light beneath the unit to ensure that you can clearly see the holes.

Thank you so much for your response, will try was struggling to insert for couple of hours

No luck water leaking may be messed up 😮

Oh oh...perhaps the rubber O-ring surrounding the plug is worn or split? If the O-ring it's fully inserted, not damaged and just dripping slightly, then it may help to apply some plumber's or O-ring grease around the O-ring. It's a bit of a hail Mary, but it might be worth a shot until you can source a replacement plug or an exact-fitting O-ring. Good luck! 🤞

@@PlumbingsCool thanks man for reply o ring is aboustely fine no damage, I see when I try to fit it leaves small gap and little outside but when I push the black one hard the u pin never goes it at all

Not sure if you can buy the notcher and dimpler as stand-alone items. Your best bet is to contact T-Drill directly. Here's their website: t-drill.com/ Click on the little white speech bubble in the lower-right corner to find the service agents located in your area.

Glad you found it helpful!

Also the wet vent is 1 1/2"

Hmmm...a little tricky to visualize your layout. If all three fixtures are connected to and draining into the 3" stack, then it may very well be legal (such a configuration was once referred to as "stack venting"...but it's all just called wet venting these days.) If that is the case, then your stack is acting as the wet vent between the three fixtures. The lavatory may have a separate vent because it's trap arm may be too long (over 1.5M or 5 feet) before it discharges into the stack. But I'm not sure if the above is what you were trying to describe. (I'll pray for you anyway! 😁)

Yes, that sometimes happens because the cartridge is so seized up and requires extra effort to remove. In that case, you might want to have a second person apply counterforce onto the faucet body to stop it from turning while attempt to loosen out the cartridge.

@@PlumbingsCool Thanks for the quick reply. Under the sink I found a hex piece attached to the faucet body, was able to use a second wrench there and loosen the cartridge. Matched it up at the hardware store and replaced it :-)

Awesome!!

Although I don't necessarily disagree with your sentiment about the current sad state of our country...I have a hard time seeing how your comment has anything to do with plumbing. And by the way: As much as I absolutely LOVE the US, you guys were one election result away from spiralling toward outright authoritarianism yourselves; thankfully it didn't go that way - this time. 🤞 Please don't hate.

Perhaps by your Code (NPC?)...but definitely not according to ours. (And who's Jose??? 🤔)

UPC is what use in Washington State. IPC calls for 1.5 on toilet vent instead.

That depends on where you are in the world. If you're where I am - in the Greater Toronto Area - one of my favourite tool suppliers is Pipe Tool Supply, located on the northern edge of Toronto. Otherwise, you may be able to find it online. Or perhaps your best bet would be to contact T-drill directly (or check their website), which should provide you with a contact info for a local dealer. Actually...I just checked their website. On the right side of the page, you'll see a red box with a white speech bubble...click it and it'll allow you to choose "I'm looking for a local T-Drill Representative". Go through the prompts and you should get your answer! Here's the website: t-drill.com/

Whether you have an expansion tank installed or not, a recirculation pump should ONLY be pushing water through the recirculation line itself, and recirculating it back into the heating source - which should require minimal effort by the pump; its not powerful enough to override the incoming water pressure. As a matter of fact, this is also why it's important to also install a check valve downstream of the pump (unless it has one built-in)...because if there isn't one, then the water pressure may push cold water back up into recirculation line.

I'm not sure which model you have, but if it's the same one depicted in the video (Bosch Geotherm 1050ES), then I would presume that your issue will NOT be resolved with a descaling. Here's exactly what the manual says for an E4 error code: CAUSE: Backflow temperature sensor over 309°F. The appliance will close the burner and lock (non-volatile). SOLUTION: 1. Check inlet/outlet vent pipes. 2. Check if secondary fan connections are disconnected. 3. Check if venting specifications are met. Long vent lengths, venting with more than three elbows, blocked vent or combination venting may cause this failure. See chapter 4.3, page 15. 4. Call Bosch Water Heating for further instructions.

Here's an example of the books I was referring to. But again, it's doubtful that those books alone will provide enough information to pass the exam. www.orderline.com/plumber-certificate-of-qualification-practice-exam-questions?srsltid=AfmBOooLaIkCeAy4NQoNN3TUUqVKXSGYqT2sW8I0JDJNED1dehsbzBWE

Although some apprentices have informed me of a study book that is sold at our major plumbing suppliers here in Ontario, the truth is that relying on any single book is going to be tricky for passing Canada's National Plumbing Certification. Successfully passing the exam requires a deep understanding of the subjects, much of which is taught throughout our college apprenticeship levels...and truthfully, often by trial and error in experiencing and getting a feel for the exam itself - which many apprentices attempt more than once (and there's absolutely no shame in that!) because the exam is so darn tricky! ☺️ Are you already registered apprentice?

Thank you so much! 🙏

I'm guessing by "PVC", you're referring to the more common and flexible Pex piping that consist of crimp rings to hold the fittings together? A little tricky to assess without seeing your situation, but in general, I'd guess that yes, you'd likely need to cut out the section of plastic pipe that your existing valve is piercing and repair it with a new section of pipe and Couplings. If you're planning on reinstalling a new, proper valve , you'd want to install a Tee fitting so that you can branch out with the new valve. Leave ample length on the branch so that if (or WHEN!) the new valve fails in the future, you have slack to simply cut it off and install a new valve without getting very invasive. Hope this helps!

Thank you! 🙏

You're looking for the FluidMaster 400A. Here's a link to the product, which you should be able to find at any big box store. www.fluidmaster.com/products/toilet/toilet-fill-valves/fix-slow-filling-toilet-400a-universal-fill-valve-fluidmaster/ For a more thorough tutorial on how to completely rebuild your toilet tank, feel free to have a look at my video on the subject: ua-cam.com/video/XxHznLgWiXg/v-deo.htmlsi=_V-lpJ0mFZryUsjR

@@PlumbingsCool Thank you SO much!

Well, you're not wrong about the shoddy tile work 😂 although that gap wasn't really affecting the rocking in that case.

Thank you! Knowing it helped you out makes it all worth it!

@@evildead1791 Thank YOU!

@@evildead1791 My pleasure!

Which one?...there are two of them. Both are correct: The lav's continuous waste has the weir at the bottom to direct drainage, and the 2x1-1/2" TY connecting the continuous vent has the weir facing up to maximize airflow to and from open air. NOTE that although the latter TY is "correct" based on proper plumbing practice, the weir's location technically doesn't really matter when venting, and is why you're allowed to you a regular tee (with no weir) or cross fitting in a venting system..."air don't care!" 😀

Yeah, that's a common problem...especially in older homes. Trap seal primers have been Code for a very long time - so you might actually have a tube running into it if it was an original installation. A lot can happen in a building as decades pass, oftentimes the trap seal priming tube getting disconnected from its water source for one reason or another. Having to manually fill the trap seal every few years is actually pretty good; it's usually every few months!

Thanks so much! 🙏

Good question. Although I'm by no stretch an expert in metallurgy, my understanding is that allowing the copper to cool slowly will allow it to soften without posing the risk of cracking or splitting when attempting swage while it's too hot. I suppose that also requires to define what you mean by "warm". If the pipe is warm - albeit cool enough for you to handle it without getting burnt - I suppose it would be safe to do so. I know some guys just don't have the patience to wait and quench the pipe with a cool wet rag to speed up waiting time. Although I've done this myself with solder joints, I think it does not soften (or "anneal") the copper as it would if you were to let it cool naturally - and may actually harden the material.

Can't tell if that's sarcasm. 🤔

ProPress or not, if the pipe is ever cut, then that end should be deburred to prevent turbulence. Only brand new full length ends don't require deburring, regardless of connection method.

Thank you. Yes, it's always a challenge to keep these Shorts under UA-cam's one-minute limit. The good news is that as of this month, UA-cam now allows shorts to extend to three minutes, which I look forward to utilizing.

Thank you very much!

There's no shortage of information these days, but I think that's a good thing, because each person has their own spin or perspective. Besides, many things are "hard" until you actually understand it and do it the first few times.

Interesting question, but you'd be hard-pressed to successfully swage a street fitting - namely with this specific tool - primarily because you're going to bottom out the tool at the fitting's turn when you try to insert the tool. You need at least 3 or 4 inches of straight clearance to drive the tool into the material. Besides, if you're needing to swage a street fitting, it probably means you're trying to connect that end to a straight piece of pipe, which would serve as a better candidate for swaging. Also you would NOT be able to swage a female fitting, since a female fitting is exactly what you're trying to achieve by swaging (turning a male end into a female). Besides, you'd still have the same bottoming-out issue as previously mentioned.

I address caulk in the main video. Personally, I don't like grouting or caulking unless there's a specific reason to do so, or is a customer preference. I always think about having to return to remove the toilet, and the hassle of having to scrape off the existing caulking. It is good a good way to keep the underside of the toilet clean in the event that you have users with...errr...poor aim. 😁 I do choose to caulk around the toilet for two specific scenarios: 1. If I have to shim the front of the toilet: Caulking helps hold the shims in place for when a user sits on the toilet (which adds weight fluctuations specifically to the front of the fixture, causing the shims to slip out over time). 2. If I install those Toto/Kohler toilets that have those bolt-on flange assemblies, and the toilet is simply dropped onto the assembly, with minimal ability to anchor the unit. They come with those measly screws that bite into the flange contraption, but it doesn't stop the toilet from bouncing or even easily twisting! In any event, if I do ever caulk, I ensure to leave the back uncaulked to allow water to escape out to the floor in the event of a failed seal - which acts as a visual indicator that there's a leak.

No, the handles were parallel to the piping, meaning that the were OPEN to the incoming water supply and the house fixtures, but CLOSED to the service ports. Therefore, I was able to remove the caps and attach the hoses without any supply water coming through. I then turned the cold handle a quarter turn, which isolated the unit from the incoming water supply, and opened flow through the service port. I then did the same for the hot side, which isolated the rest of the house from the unit, but opened flow-through out to the service port - thus creating a closed loop. While you can certainly shut off the main water supply (and might actually be a good idea if you're new to the procedure), these service valves make it unnecessary to do so.

This is a single flare, which is easily suitable for potable water pressure applications (which typically only reaches about 80 PSI). I'm certainly no expert on all the different flaring methods, but I think double flares are more common for more very high pressure applications, where dependence on the joint not failing is absolutely critical (life-dependent), such as brake lines, and fuel lines.

Hmmm....are you referring to the smaller white threaded cap that sometimes comes screwed to the bottom of the fill valve? If so, then you WON'T likely need that, as it's supplied for old-school flexible chrome-plated brass tubing (referred to as "speedys") that was once commonly used to connect the water line to the toilet tank. You're likely using the newer flexible stainless braided toilet supplies, which screw directly onto the bottom thread of the valve. Just be sure to only HAND-TIGHTEN, as overtightening may cause it to split and flood your bathroom! Hope that helps.

Appreciate your comment so much! Only be sure to ream or debur the pipe before flaring, which I forgot to demonstrate in those early days of filming! Thanks again! 🙏

There are many ways to connect copper pipe, and flared fittings is one of them. Notably, it's one of the few approved connection methods when burying copper pipe joints. Conversely, compression connections (the common ones with the brass ferrule and nut; not the heavy-duty corporation ones used for underground water service) are significantly inferior and fail easily if the the pipe joint is stressed even slightly. I've even seen compression fittings popping off, causing havoc and significant damage. Not gonna happen with a proper flare joint...which is why even the refrigeration industry uses flared connections to handle loads typical of 300 PSI...notte to mention other industries as well.

I'm familiar with vinegar, only recently learned of using citric acid from a viewer, and know nothing about hydrochloric acid for descaling - although applying the latter sounds quite extreme on many levels, as hydrochloric acid is some pretty potent stuff!

Love to hear it! That's what it's all about! 👌

I'm never ceased to be amazed by those who are so quick to judge and criticise with such limited information - all for the mere purpose of inflating one's own ego: The zip ties are there because the framer was not yet on site to build the partition; that's an outside wall, and the pipe's needed to be kept inside to prevent freezing. I can assure you that all piping was significantly fastened before the drywall was installed. And its spelled, 'embarrassing'...which is ironic on so many levels. 😁

You’re kidding right 😂

There is no 3x2" Tee. There is a 3x2" Wye standing vertically that's elbowing with a 3" 90° elbow at the top to pick up the toilet, and 2" 45° and 90° elbows coming off the Wye's branch to pick up the vent. There's nothing illegal or incorrect about it here in Canada.

@@PlumbingsCool im talking about your vent fitting. The tee wye should be flipped around for proper air flow

Oh, you mean the 2x1-1/2" TY. No, having the wier at the top is proper plumbung practice. Look at it this way: any air introduced into the system is going to come from open air above. Installing the wier at the top directs the air to flow more smoothly in and out of the vent terminal as pressure differentials fluctuate. But here's the thing: In reality, it doesn't really matter where that wier gets installed because the air's going flow regardless ("air no care!" 😁) Want more proof? You had mentioned a "Tee" in your initial post, which is COMPLETELY absent of a wier...AND PERFECTLY LEGAL! If you were referring to drainage (such as the lavatory's TY, which has its wier at the bottom), then yes, I'd completely agree with you.

@@PlumbingsCool okay its hard to see everything but now that i have more info. That 2x1-1/2” twye for your vent is upside down there is no way around it. Air dont care but there is still ways for better air flow. Also most importantly it is an easy way to identify that it is a vent stack.

Then what would you deem to be the optimal way to install a tee (with no weir) to ensure maximum airflow? Tees are allowed for venting in your jurisdiction, I presume? Also, that 2" vent is not a vent stack by our definition, but rather branch vent; which are two different things. Even if it were a vent stack, the "proper" way (again, it doesn't really matter) for installing a TY would be with the weir at the top of the branch opening...thus allowing the air to "swoop" in more smoothly from the air source, which originates from above, not from below.

Thanks so much!

Hmmm....sounds like it might be a problem specific to the unit. I'd either check the troubleshooting section of the Owner's Manual or call up Rinnai's tech support directly and describe to them the issue you're having.

@@PlumbingsCool I am a Rinnai dealer....... Somehow how when cool water is turned off it is surging a small amount of water in to the hot side of the system

Although it's quite tricky to diagnose your issue remotely and with limited information, I'm wondering if you have a defective mixing valve or perhaps even a single-lever shower control valve somewhere in the system that causing water to pass through, thereby triggering your unit to cycle on & off.

@@PlumbingsCool good thought...... I can go into the diagnostics on the Rinnai and check to see if it's and flow (gpm) while my wife cycles the cold on/off

Good luck...hope it works out!

Yeah, I'm guessing you guys are un UPC. Here in Canada you can run several toilets on an 1-1/2" vet, depending upon its developed length.

Same in ILLINOIS

Do you mean thatIllinois is UPC, or closer to our Canadian sizing rules?

@@PlumbingsCool same as Massachusetts in that the vent needs to be 2” all the way to larger diameter pipe. 2” is the minimum vent size for a toilet here. Sorry, hope that clears it up.

Yes, it certainly does, thank you! Always interested in learning how things are done in other parts of the world. And you never know...maybe your plumbing Code will come in handy if I ever end up moving down there to the good ol' US of A! 🦅 😁

While I prefer to install it on the cold side, You CAN certainly the tank it on the hot as they're rated for it (and installed all the time as part of a hydronics heating system), although it will probably shorten its lifespan compared to installing it on the cold side.

Awesome! Hope it helps out!

Yes, I agree in that I PREFER to place the expansion tank on the cold side for the same reason you state, whenever possible. However, expansion tanks are designed to serve hot water, although I'd agree that hot water will likely shorten its life span. As a matter of fact, expansion tanks are used for hydronics systems which convey ONLY hot water. No, I didn't address the setting of the pressure in the video; some expansion tanks are precharged and sealed at the factory and cannot be adjusted due to the absence of a Schrader valve.

Thanks so much!