How to Paint Chassis, Suspension & Roll Bar Parts
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 лип 2018
- In this video I use a stabilizer bar to show you how to paint and suspension, chassis or roll bar parts. The steps I always follow and have had great success with are:
1. Remove the component along with any bushings, bolts, screws, etc.
2. Use a wire wheel attachment for a drill and use it to remove existing paint, rust, mud, heavy deposits
3. Use 60 grit sandpaper and dry sand the part removing the high points and more rust/deposits
4. Wet sand with 220 smoothing out the part and continuing to remove deposits
5. Use a Wax/Grease remover wipe down the bar. Brake cleaner also works fine.
6. Spray paint the part. I use VHT Roll Bar & Chassis paint. This stuff has been great through many Montana winters and is very easy to apply requiring no primer. I apply the first coat very thin as a tack coat and the 5 minutes later I add a coverage coat to finish the part.
7. Reinstall the part with all new components aside from the paint.
This method has worked for me on many projects and I have been extremely happy with the results.
VHT Roll Bar & Chassis Paint amzn.to/3ktzdec
Link is an affiliate link, I receive a small commission from these links at no cost to you. - Авто та транспорт
Looks great! I’ll be using your process to paint my control arms, thanks!!!
Thanks! Good luck on the paint job.
For large parts with heavy rust I usually use stainless steel scouring pads, the large curly ribbon type. Get them at the dollar store. Just wear a leather work glove and palm the scouring pads along the part. I've also used naval jelly on a recent set of control arms and it removed alot of the rust stuck inside pitting. I used this VHT roll bar chassis paint for the first time, I hung the part up and kept applying light coats every 10 minutes, did way more than just 3 coats. It's been hanging up in the attic for 3 days now where it's around 85-90 degress and seems to still be getting harder. 24hrs after it still felt soft, my finger nail was able to leave an impression when pressed. I'm going to hang it a full 7 days before installing.
Nice tips!
The rotary polisher cleans those parts much faster. Used it on all my rusted Honda suspension parts. Worked out fine.
Those work really well for sure!
What if I use a wire wheel and a dull flap disk onna grinder you think i might run the chance of removing material
Bead blaster👍🏻
Wayyyyy easier. Need to buy one of those still!
Since you painted it on the ground, did it blend well when you did the other side? I'm trying to paint some heavy ass aftermarket rear lower links and don't have a good way to suspend them. I thought if I sprayed one side that I would have to wait for it to dry before doing the other side and it might look weird where the older paint crosses over with the newer paint. Clearly I don't paint often.
It ended up looking very nice. Being black it hid the overlap perfectly.
No primer needed for this paint ?
I used that on my truck frame. Only difference to save some elbow grease I sand blasted most of the rust away, since the undercarriage can be exposed to the elements; I primed it with Rust-Oleum "Rusty Metal Primer". That's when I top coated the whole frame with about 6 cans that I purchased on Amazon for about $7 a can. How is this piece holding up so far?
Sounds like you did it up right! I bet it looks awesome. So far the piece looks like I just painted it. Holding up really well.
@@MechanicLife It's good stuff, I'm surprised I haven't seen that many videos on it. Maybe I should make one and make another one in a year or two to see how it looks afterwards.
For sure. You should totally rock a video! Sounds like the work you already did would have made a sweet upload.
The vht rollbar&chassis paint works really well I got the frame of my 90 GMC k1500 painted and it looks like new
@@MechanicLife where's that video
what is the main difference between wet/dry sanding? TIA
The main difference is you can go down to finer grits with wet sanding because the water is keeping the paper from clogging up by washing away the sediment you are sanding.
Unless I missed it... satin or gloss?
Took it gloss on this one.
Lukes Garage thanks for the reply.
Always go gloss. Better water beading. I like Tremclad. Spray directly over the gloss with a satin (within 1 hour or after 48 hours) if you want less of a shine.
Why don’t you paint a rust converter rather than sanding down metal. All that waisted time
I prefer to sand it all down. Thumbs up to those who use rust converter as well!
You need better abrasive strategies, too much work