Spray Paint VS Rust!! - What Brand is Best?
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- Опубліковано 19 січ 2019
- What’s up everyone!!
This is a video I’ve wanted to do for a while, to show you guys the best paint as well as find out for myself.
I paint a lot of my Jeep parts myself and I figured it was time to find out what works best.
I find the results very interesting and it’s crazy to see the differences between the paints.
If your looking for steelit then check out their website and look for distributors, you can also request a free sample of their traditional grey.
Or find it on amazon: amzn.to/2CAKFzr
Thanks for watching and stay tuned for the next video!
Make sure to check out the official JKGG Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/jkgearand... - Авто та транспорт
1st - Steel It ($18 - $28)
2nd - Rustoleum Stops Rust (
What about John deere farm equipment 7435830.
Cost about 16.00 worth it ???
Leaving square edges on steel pretty much guarantees coating failure. The reason is that unless an impractical number of coats are applied, there is no thickness and little protection.
Regarding the Rust Reformer, it is designed to neutralize existing corrosion. It should be applied, then topcoated after 24 hours. During this time, the chemical reactions essentially consume its ability to convert rust. It basically runs out of ammo. It must be topcoated to prevent recurring corrosion.
I've used this product for quite a few years in refurbishing commercial and residential handrails, and have had great results. Note: I topcoat with Rustoleum because it works well, and the customer has no problems finding paint for recoats and touch-ups.
I will say, I really like your professionalism you put into your videos. You have really grown as a UA-camr and your videos are showing it. Keep putting out amazing content
I've been redoing snow plows for years. If you really want to make the Rustolem paint last a LONG time and resist chipping along with making the shine from gloss paints last longer, buy the Rustoleum by the quart or gallon and use a small touch up gun from Harbor Freight. Both Valspar and Majic (Tractor supply) paints sell pint bottles of hardener that you can mix in before you spray. Only mix what you need, use acetone for the thinner, NOT naptha. READ the labels, Lol Once mixed, the pot life is around 4 or 5 hours and it will still harden inside your sprayer if left overnight etc.
Not only will you save a lot of money over spray cans, cleanup is minimal and the paint will dry 3 times faster, 3 times shinier,and 3 times harder and last more than double the length of time. It will resist chips and cracking better also, IF YOU DO IT SAFELY!
WARNING: Now the bad part, the hardener contains nasties called isocyanates! This shit is evil. When mixing, wear gloves and keep it off of your skin. When spraying it, you MUST wear a respirator! Not a dust mask, but a cartridge based unit designed for painting. If you spray it inside, cover all exposed skin areas, wear your mask and try to create some ventilation. Our friends at OSHA require a full suit and outside pumped in air to the mask for breathing (no masks with filters) when used in commercial or industrial environments. This garbage can get in your body through skin, your eyes or whatever. Your body can not remove it and like lead it will build up over time until one day your central nervous system shuts off and you flop around like a just caught fish in the floor of a row boat and then die.
Why did I even mention it then, right? Well, it really works well, is easier than powder coating and does a great job when used safely. However, we all know that some moronic idiot will try it, in a small garage with no ventilation, no mask, and no gloves. All because they are tough and don't have time to worry about stupid safety procedures. In all honesty, if you spray it outside, upwind with no mask you will probably be ok? However, about 1 in every 10,000 people seem to be extremely sensitive to isocyanates and when even briefly exposed, an ambulance ride is next, hospital second and possible permanent damage to their CNS (Central Nervous System) third. If you are stupid and that happens? I'm sorry it did but my conscience is clear.
If all social media comments were like this one, the world would be a better place. Seriously. Great comment. Great info.
@@commonmancrypto1648if all social media was like that no one would read it. lol. But yes very informative and well said.
I would be interested in starting with rusty parts, and then seeing if any of the "rust" paints actually do control the rust (and do a few with normal paint, etc. just to see how significant the difference is).
Technically if you analyze this closely, although I question wether the edges of the metal actually got evenly or thick enough paint on them. Still if you examine this you can kind of see how they would do. Steel it & Rustoleum enamel will be better than nothing & buy you some time to get it worked on later. The others will buy you less time based on how they failed so fast I would say Krylon is third since it is a enamel but I wouldn't buy it, just if you already have bought it, it'll help.
😂 some of the products are not for coating rust.
Rustoleum Rust Reformer is basically made to make rusty surfaces paintable, like a "primer for rust". A good test for the rust reformer would be to take an already rusty piece of metal, spray it with the reformer, then paint over it.
Great video. I'll continue using good old regular Rustoleum for my future projects!
I am only painting outdoor furniture but this is SO helpful!
My process for steel products used in a salt water environment.
Step 1: sand
Step 2: wipe with acetone then dry cloth
Step 3: Rustoleum etching primer (2 coats) followed by light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth.
Step 4: Rustoleum 2 in 1 primer (2 coats) followed by light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth.
Step 5: Appliance epoxy paint (2 coats) followed by very light sanding and wipe with acetone then dry cloth.
Step 6: Clear Top coat (1 or 2 coats).
Results: Easily 2 years of saltwater protection. Never had any peeling.
Me and guys at work had performed almost the same test. We took rusted pieces and painted them. Paint that seals out oxygen would prove to be the best paint. Rustoleum paint won that contest too. Good job!
Steel it is not a rust converter, ffs.
This was an awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to do it!
I think for best test results they should have been primed and painted and then allowed to dry for 48-72 hours. They normally have a cure time of a least 48 hours.
Ys
Thanks for going through this and providing some answers! My brother just built up a couple of a axles and covered them with POR15. Might take a bit more effort than a rattle can, but will hold up
Thanks for taking the time to do this test! Awesome!
Used the cheap 99c spray paint from wal mart that you had on your left side on my truck chassis seems to be working well for rust
Rustoleum is the only paint to use. Been the best for years, besides por15
Great video ben, very useful test as almost all of us Jeepers use spray paint👍
Great test! Thanks for sharing!
This vid will help so many people. Thanks Bro!
Awesome comparison! Keep up the great content!
A note for thought...the ends where you cut the metal would be more porous than the rest of the pieces...so that would clearly rust first. The Rust-oleum Rust Reformer is rusting due to it needing to be primed and painted. It is not a rust preventative, but a transform the rust to metal to be painted. I bet if you used it and them primed it and painted it...it would hold up a lot better.
First zinc 95,% cold galvanized spray paint $12.00 per spray can. From Connect-it Wireless Products. This is what they use on all Radio, Cellular and TV towers. Commercial grade paint.👍👍👍 This is a silver cold galvanized color.
My second best primer is RM7 (rusty metal primer # 7) it's made by Rust-Oleum. I've painted metal Arc weld two sections of metal together over the paint, the paint has less than 1/8 of an inch burn back. 👍 This primer color is a off Rusty red it also stops rust that's existing on metal from continuing to grow.
Thank you so much for ur test brother!!! This was awesome!!!
Thanks for making this video, I am making a go kart in high school as a school project and knowing what product to use (on a budget) to keep the metal frame from rusting is really helpful!
GREAT JOB!!! 👍 WHAT WOULD I DO WITHOUT THIS VIDEO!
Exactly what I was looking for ! Thanks
Awesome test. My truck frame is rusty and I was going to just use Rust Reformer on it, but after seeing your test I've decided to prime with Rust Reformer and then topcoat with the Rustoleum gloss. Thanks!
POR15 for the frame, Rustoleum for everything else! Great video and thanks for putting in the work for us.
Scott
Only use por15 if theres already rust. Otherwise rustoleum like hell
@@codyparker679 Yeah I wonder if the Rustoleum reformer would have worked better if there had actually be rust in the sample.
@@mickjager5974 I have rust on my frame, what should I put on after rust reformer?
@@FreedomFundsTV I assume paint. truthfully haven't used this stuff much or recently, but I'm guessing they have suggested paints to use after the rust reformer. Probably something else they make for you to buy!
@@mickjager5974 they make a farmers implement paint in a can 😬
I personally would have sanded the metal, Primed, and two coats of paint.
Then did the test. I have done a similar test But used a separate container sto minimize cross contamination, at the end found that Rustoleum did the best even with a little better preparation.
Was a good video for people to see and prove not all paints are created equal 👌
Yep good prep is to sandblast and degrease. The most expensive coatings insist on thorough prep.
Great video well worth the watch!
Good video. The Rustoleum is what I use underneath my truck and I use the Hammer Finish stuff on my sliders.
Very good thank you for doing this. I used 3 light coast rustoleum etch primer then 2 coats rustoleum semi gloss. The sliders are doing well. Had to shoot a couple rock chips but easy peasy touch ups !!
Great experiment. Good info. Thanks.
Wow great video! Thanks for the video! Very helpful.
Solid testing project! Thank you
In my experience I have found out that Rust-Oleum paint will last and works the best for rust and pretty much any krylon doesn't cover near as good and just chips off way easier so I always buy Rust-Oleum that's for sure great video
Ever notice that people don’t use punctuation anymore...so frustrating!
If you wanted the bumpers to actually look nice, would you use a clear top coat to extend the life of the Rustoleum?
Man , excellent video very helpful.. i am doing my jl foofrack now i know what to use 👍👍
Great info... it’s time to repaint my xrc armor I know what I’m using now....thank you
Good video, Im wondering if you used Steelit as a base layer then rustolem on top if you would get the best protection. Chipping the paint on a $30+ can of paint makes that not worth it to me....
Great vidio , I'm going to use it on my bike. I was reading where guys like it better than powder coating because they can see stress cracks in the frame and can weld it. Opposed to haveing to scrape off the powder coating before a weld repair. Thanks again
Great video Ben!
rust-oleum it is then. Going to respray a 1994 steel bike, i told people it's a vintage bike, but they didn't believe me. Went online to get new chain-ring and according to my crank it's now vintage by Shimano lol. Love the old stuff, lasts and lasts. Thanks for doing this bud, cool as.
I just caught this video, thanks for putting it together. I just checked the price of Steel-It, 4 years after this video was done. It's now $35.69 for a 14oz aerosol can!
Great video thanks for taking the time.
Very impressed on the steel it
Very helpful! Time to return all my orders from amazon!
now I know what to use for my bumper.
Very cool test,👍i always use rust oleum.
Definitely a great video!
Fantastic, and realistic video. Shows real world conditions that many of us in the NorthEast face - thanks!
Good video. I've used Rustoleum always. Outdoor furniture and alk things metal. Best bang for the money.
Badass video. I’m painting axles right now. Luckily I’m using Rustoleum.
It is a great research with great efforts
I paint my truck frame with the rustoleum high heat. Lasts about a year and a half before I have to do it again. Wonderful stuff
Watching your video is making me realize the limitations of a spray can. Probably going to spend the money and have my dump truck box professionally painted.
I got 2 Rust-Oleum paint spray . 1.Stop-Rust Gloss Protective Enamel.
2. American Accents 2X Ultra Cover(Paint+Primer).
Home depot best selling products.
The Rust Reformer is meant to be a primer of its own that you then cover with a top coat. Helps to prevent further rust spread. Not good on its own
Rustoleum industrial enamel works great, very durable, I use it on everything. Let it cure for like 48 hours and it’s good to go. I’ve beaten my diff cover off with a hammer and barely left a mark.
That's a pretty good test based on the way some people would use the paints. But I can't say it's a fair test of the paints. Paint prevents rust by sealing the surface against water penetration, not by any chemical process. So the better the seal, the better the protection. That's why the primers didn't fare so well, they aren't meant to seal. Getting the best seal is all about proper surface prep and application. Wiping the plates down with mineral spirits was good but you should also have hit them with some sandpaper to give the paint the proper surface to adhere. Then you only gave the paint a single coat when most every paint I can think of recommends at least two thin coats for best performance. Finally, you started the test way too soon. Just because a paint is dry to the touch doesn't mean it's fully cured. Ideally you should have given the plates at least a day or two to set up before starting the test.
I'm not bashing what you did, it was a fine test that I do think produced valid results. A lot of people will use the paint exactly the way you did. But I do think the results may have changed if the test had been more rigid. Of course, I'm certain it would also have taken longer.
FYI, taking the plates out of the water was a good way of mimicking the Mil-Spec tests. Those use a spray rather than submersion to test corrosion protection. So those tests leave the pieces constantly exposed to the air while being soaked with saltwater.
nice test! Im painting a rusty bumper and plannign to use rust reformer as a primer then cover that with the rustoleum satin enamel, hopefully that will hold up well!
awesome, thanks for sharing!
2:25 - the word you're looking for is control.
Thanks
Why in the world would we want to prevent the control in testing? Isn't that the opposite of sciencing?
Cold galvanization paint would have been interesting to test as well.
TY for your time and effort doing this test. Obviously STEEL-IT is best but not affordable for my hobby projects....i will use the Rustolium Gloss Protective Enamel for my projects. TY again for this great video!
Thanks for this video!
I use the Rust-Oleum self etch Primer I like the the dark green tint, no sand spray final coat 20 to 30 mins after your prime coat.
me too
This just goes to show need a quality paint, quality job and keep the crap that causes rust off the Jeep. Thanks for the share, definatly a couple cans I have not heard of before.
Duplicolor semigloss black has worked really well for me. If I'm not going for a perfect finish I don't even worry about cleaning the surface. As long as there's no oil it sticks really well and doesn't let go.
This is brilliant, thanks. I'd love to see a comparison between this and certain coatings - electro zinc, electro nickel. Also a lot of steel roofing now has a hot dipped coating that is mostly zinc, but also contains a percentage of aluminium and magnesium and apparently the alloy is much tougher than just zinc. Love to see someone attempt to home brew this.
Hey thanks for the informative video. Do you think the rustoleum flat black protective enamel will perform just as well as the gloss black one from your video?
I have used Rust-Oleum also with good results. My alternate suggestion is VHT epoxy paint it's self priming made for all weather and rust and salt resistant. Temp rated at 250° F. Can be bought at AutoZone and probably any other major autoparts store. Thanks for the video. I also use fuid film for extra protection over the winter.(Northeast) mine is a 16 yes not old but looks new still underneath except for the crappy Rubicon shock finish don't have a problem w the shocks but the finish is crap.
VHT Epoxy Paint SP650 and SP651 works great. I've used POR too, but the more I use it, the less of a fan I am. When it starts to go, it all goes.
Super helpful!! 🙏🏽
Ooh! Sneak peak of the axle truss! 19:50 👀👀👀
Thanks for that info!!
Very helpful video!!!!!!
Great video 👍🏻
Great video! For the constructive criticism, not all paint needs a primer in all applications. The fact you used the rusto primer for ALL the top coats seriously affected the test results.
I like vht chasis paint, nice and thick and good coverage!
Awesome video, thanks for doing and posting this!\
VHT roll bar & chassis paint always worked well for me
That's basically what I just suggested. Very good results with that. I use the high heat, the chassis one you stated and the epoxy one that can be used on shocks springs basically everything other than exhaust. I still also use the Rust-Oleum with good results. Nothing beats being on top of things and being proactive and not reactive when it comes to maintenance.
@@truckerrickakamanowar true, prep before paint is probably most important before painting
nice review, thanks
I would have put them in individual containers some of that could just be rust stains from the raw bar and ones that failed
I like the Rustoleum high performance enamel. Dries in 15 minutes and looks better than the regular Rustoleum in my experience, partly because it dries so fast and reduces drips and sagging marks.
I've been using the Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy. It works very well slightly thinned and applied with an airless sprayer.
Lawson high solids spray paint is great. Drawback? Finding a Lawson rep!
I love the rustoleum hammered, lets see how it does.
I would have used separate containers to prevent contact rust.
We’re not building a Rolex
@@SouthernYankeeLifestyle Yeah just a Casio!
This is interesting, I used some reformer a few years ago it has held up well but the rust on the vehicle is likely not from this area. Better climate. I bought some of that Krylon last night because the can was so frickan big compared to rustoleum and 50 cents cheaper if they havent improved their formula looks like that might have been a mistake, Oh well it will likely buy me some time since enamel seems to starve rust of oxygen so it will get used on my project car. Will definitely be sticking with Rustoleums enamel paints from here on out for cars.
Thanks for the vidéo, helpful
Gives me some options for undercarriage touch up work, wondering if steel it would work on control arms.
I am a little late but I am redoing a mower deck and came across this video. The steel it looks awesome my question is can I put that rustoleum rust primer first then the steel it
Rusto industrial enamel gloss black is all I use
What would your recommend for exhaust tips and recovery hooks? rustoleum has millions of stuff. Was thinking maybe the engine stuff? Let me know. Thank you
I have had the best luck with Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating. It is amazing and extremely durable. I have it on my Motobilt bumpers and it has held up to a ton of abuse.
Great video ben. I would like to see the axles when they are fully painted
Nice little filler video, good information. I bet you were happy when you finished. Worse then watching paint dry. But good information. Cheers from Canada.
I like the rustoleum high performance paint
I've seen project farm use a mixture of water viniger and salt for rust testing. Normally takes a day to get rust just by spraying the mixture on it
You didn't really use the Rustoleum Rust Reformer correctly. It's not designed to be used on bare metal. It's a rust converter, chemically changing red rust to a "black" rust which doesn't eat the metal and offers protection against red rust forming again. But it needs to have red rust to work, since the chemical reaction works off of red rust and not bare metal. It should have been used like a primer, after which you would top coat it with your choice of paint. So you use it as a rust converter/primer on already rusted metal that you don't want or can't sand down to bare metal. It's not a paint.
Just curious, what was your cure time for them before the salt bath? Would they have perform better if there was a 24 or 48 hr cure time?