Get the bubble levels as well. As I have moved up in optics and mounts I have found that I no longer even have the clearance in my mounts to use the aluminum slide. It will really suck if you don't have the level set to get your mount done.
What about 2 piece picatinny bases that do not extend the entire length? Are there any adapters for that tool? Or do you have to rely on levels at that point?
Some one-piece mounts have a ridge (or some other feature in the way) that prevents you from using the Arisaka leveling tool. Kind of annoying, especially when they're high quality, expensive mounts.
Thanks Ryan. What do you recommend for leveling dovetail rings? Tikka T1x with Vortex PST gen 2. Btw. Your ring finder tool says no data for the setup above. Thank you in advance.
I couldn’t say for sure what custom action it is but it some type of fancy short action Remington 700 clone with a match barrel and an MDT JAE-700 G4 chassis. $2k for the chassis, $1,300 for the action (I would go with George Precision but there are lots of options, $800 for the barrel (I would go with Schneider or Douglas but there are lots of options), $250 for the trigger (I would go with Timney but there are a few options), a few hundred dollars for barrel fitting and Cerakoteing, then it looks like he has a $250 Atlas bipod, it looks like his scopes are in the $3k range.
This is the case for everything. Base, scope base, turret, reticle, bubble level, wedge tool - any of these can be off. You've got to trust something. CNC machined base, precise wedge and scope base are more reliable than pair bubble levels on barrel or base and the turret.
@@themoss7115 cnc machining doesn't mean perfect. Every piece has a tolerance spec. So when you add all the pieces up in your system you are stacking tolerances. All in all its best to do a tall target test once your done to verify no matter the preference of optic mounting.
If you want to shoot sideways... If your scope is leveled to the ground but your rifle is not, your barrel is not directly below the scope when you shoot, but a little bit to the side. Lets assume the rifle is perfectly zeroed at 100yd and the barrel is off 0.05 inches to the right due to rifle being canted below the scope and not leveled. At the barrel, bullet is 0.05 inches to the right of your scope axis. At 100yd, it's perfectly in the middle of your target. At 200yd, however, it's 0.05 inches to the left. At 300yd it's 0.1 inches off to the left. At 1000yd, it's 0.45 inches off. It might not look like much, but it's totally avoidable inaccuracy if you level everything right at the start. Numbers above are for 1.5 inches of hight over bore and rifle canted only 1.91 degrees off the leveled scope.
@@themoss7115 That is correct, but as you just demonstrated, this is easy enough to put in your ballistic table: most people can even do that math in their heads. I'd rather have to compensate 1/10 of an inch for an offhand shot on a deer at 300, than to be fighting for my natural point of aim on an offhand shot at a deer at 300. There's a time and a place. And, if you really want your vertical bisecting your bore, a mirror gets you there better than any level will.
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Bubble levels are handy when mounting a bubble level to the scope.
Get the bubble levels as well. As I have moved up in optics and mounts I have found that I no longer even have the clearance in my mounts to use the aluminum slide. It will really suck if you don't have the level set to get your mount done.
Great, thank you 👍
What is that 2 piece metal component called for leveling? I need that in my life
Think he called it a scope leveling device.
@@Felenari I found it. Arisaka combo leveling kit.
What about 2 piece picatinny bases that do not extend the entire length? Are there any adapters for that tool? Or do you have to rely on levels at that point?
Why can't I find Part 3 so I can see you level scope with that tool you showed us in Part 2 instead of levels? I see parts 1, 2 & 4, but not 3.
Some one-piece mounts have a ridge (or some other feature in the way) that prevents you from using the Arisaka leveling tool. Kind of annoying, especially when they're high quality, expensive mounts.
Thanks Ryan. What do you recommend for leveling dovetail rings? Tikka T1x with Vortex PST gen 2. Btw. Your ring finder tool says no data for the setup above. Thank you in advance.
What kind of rifle is that?
I couldn’t say for sure what custom action it is but it some type of fancy short action Remington 700 clone with a match barrel and an MDT JAE-700 G4 chassis. $2k for the chassis, $1,300 for the action (I would go with George Precision but there are lots of options, $800 for the barrel (I would go with Schneider or Douglas but there are lots of options), $250 for the trigger (I would go with Timney but there are a few options), a few hundred dollars for barrel fitting and Cerakoteing, then it looks like he has a $250 Atlas bipod, it looks like his scopes are in the $3k range.
Where can you buy that leveling device?
Arisaka
@@SuperSecretSquirell thanks for the info
That tool works great if the reticle is true to the base of the scope. Not all scopes are
Any quality optic should have a reticle true to the base of the scope. If its not I'd send it back.
This is the case for everything. Base, scope base, turret, reticle, bubble level, wedge tool - any of these can be off. You've got to trust something. CNC machined base, precise wedge and scope base are more reliable than pair bubble levels on barrel or base and the turret.
@@themoss7115 cnc machining doesn't mean perfect. Every piece has a tolerance spec. So when you add all the pieces up in your system you are stacking tolerances. All in all its best to do a tall target test once your done to verify no matter the preference of optic mounting.
A level is useless for mounting: so long as your scope is level when you shoot, your rifle can be laid over on its side, it doesn't care.
If you want to shoot sideways... If your scope is leveled to the ground but your rifle is not, your barrel is not directly below the scope when you shoot, but a little bit to the side. Lets assume the rifle is perfectly zeroed at 100yd and the barrel is off 0.05 inches to the right due to rifle being canted below the scope and not leveled. At the barrel, bullet is 0.05 inches to the right of your scope axis. At 100yd, it's perfectly in the middle of your target. At 200yd, however, it's 0.05 inches to the left. At 300yd it's 0.1 inches off to the left. At 1000yd, it's 0.45 inches off. It might not look like much, but it's totally avoidable inaccuracy if you level everything right at the start.
Numbers above are for 1.5 inches of hight over bore and rifle canted only 1.91 degrees off the leveled scope.
@@themoss7115 That is correct, but as you just demonstrated, this is easy enough to put in your ballistic table: most people can even do that math in their heads. I'd rather have to compensate 1/10 of an inch for an offhand shot on a deer at 300, than to be fighting for my natural point of aim on an offhand shot at a deer at 300. There's a time and a place.
And, if you really want your vertical bisecting your bore, a mirror gets you there better than any level will.
Cannot hear you. Sound volume is tooooooo low