Finally… a scope mounting tutorial that started at the beginning! Up until now all i’ve seen are people starting by mounting the scope rings on an already installed base! Knew I could depend on Ron!!
Yes. Set eye relief on highest magnification from the position you will most likely be shooting from. If you shoot prone a lot or expect to on a hunt, then go prone setting eye relief.
Love Ron's videos! I used to have a smith mount my scopes but obviously the eye relief was never right. Decided to learn how to do it. Found out that it's not rocket science. I use the plumb bob technique. Basically, find your eye relief (with scope at max power), level the rifle then shine a flash light through the front end to match the plumb bob. Torque the rings to spec and your done. I mounted one for my son a couple of nights ago. He was amazed at how simple it was.
Great video Ron, I've been using Blue loctite on my Enduro motorcycle for 20+ years, same for my rifle scope bolts. Never had any problems with removing the bolts.
Boy Ron this young gentleman is very lucky to have a great teacher like you! I've learned mostly everything on my own. I am very proficient now but made a lot of mistakes along the way. HAPPY HUNTING!!
It’s so cool that you thoroughly address the viewers “concerns” when they are brought up! Heck, I just got done watching your last video of swapping scopes back and forth, and now this! Thanks so much for the always excellent videos, sir!
Great video! I screwed up mounting scopes until I got a Wheeler scope mounting kit, and the reticle leveler. All my scopes are good to go now. Money well spent, in my opinion.
An absolute treasure trove of great info. The amount of time I put into levelling an interchangeable scope was apparently WAY too much. Thanks, Ron, you are a legend!
Well Done.. Mounted a bunch over the years n just about all like you outlined here. I have started using the Wheeler Scope Leveler. I find it helps kept it level when tighten the rings down. More piece of mind than anything else.
Hi Ron, another great video. You had mentioned that the picatinny rail makes it more difficult to load bolt action rifles from the top. I purchased a one piece scope mounting ring system that eliminates the need for a picatinny rail. The company is called DNZ Products, Precision Rifle Scope Mounting System. No lapping needed and no picatinny rail in the way. Works great when top loading my Winchester model 70.
No they didn’t….no bedding on mount base and they used junky very inaccurate Wheeler Scope Alignment Bars…the very worst. Two points (the pointed ends touching never shows true alignment..it can’t!) never tell if the receiver is truly straight. No ring lapping…oh gez….,
Average guy? That’s me all over. But decent scopes are expensive let alone expensive scopes. Not to mention what it costs to shoot anymore on top of what it hosts to go hunting. I do not hunt any longer. The reasons are many but to say I’ve spent mega thousands to go out of state/in state to risk missing an animal because of a poorly installed scope just doesn’t set well with me. Oh yes I was very green for too many years. But I found out it was not only enjoyable to have consistent accuracy it was also fun learning how to install scopes correctly and epoxy bed actions…change out junky factory triggers and so forth. I’ll tell you another joy I discovered doing gun work correctly. Is when smug owners of expensive customer rifles looked down their king noses on my home brewed rifles..snd id outshoot them. Pure bliss!!
Clayman you were right. They always show up with some very specific steps they have heard of to mention that is the ONLY way to do something. I've never used the ring alignment bars nor lapped scope rings and I have a bunch of varmint rifles that shoot tiny groups and the scopes work perfectly. It's mostly insecurity that makes these guys have to show "how much" they know. That and a lack of experience with guns in general. They learn a little and think they know it all.
Pard..unless you’re a bonafide qualified experienced gunsmith…give your condescending smug remark in check. There’s lots of us “Very Experienced” ordinary gun owners that learned from real pros on installation of rifle optics. And I’m sure I’ll continue to see lots of very bad scope installations snd I do every single time I go to a rifle range. Kapeesh?
Good explanation. I used to think I always wanted the scope as low as possible but now buy rings that set the scope height to center the reticle to where my eye is as the stock is mounted to my shoulder. The mount rifle with eyes closed then open them to see the scope height and relief method helps determine this.
I absolutely recommend Fix It Sticks bubble leveling kit. Level the picatinny to the barrel, then the barrel to the scope, then rhe scope to the plumb bob, then add a permanent level to the picatinny, then do a ladder test, then make sure the scope is
I’ve heard loctite will allow slightly more inchLbs then the reading on your wrench, that is it will be slightly tighter then tour wrench reading. It may not be an issue. Screw threads with stretch and weaken if over tight but shouldn’t be a problem unless you’re way above torque specs.
* Setting the scope as far forward while still maintaining a full field of view ( when wearing a summer shirt ), should give you plenty of proper eye relief when wearing heavy winter clothing.
In a perfect world, the rings are directly above the base screws. However, as you noted, the rings must often be positioned so that proper eye relief is achieved while still supporting the scope properly. I would be interested in hearing your recommendations on the minimum distance between the scope bell and the barrel or front of the base when longer bases are being used? I've heard all sorts of rules of thumb on this one, anywhere from an eighth of an inch to the width of a credit card.
My opinion - I go with low or medium rings on a hunting rifle and a typical deer hunting scope with top end of 12 power. I like good cheek weld and align to my eye.
I use the picatinny rail because I have a hard time aligning the 2 piece setups to the point I couldn't sight the rifle because I max out the adjustments. Tried a few times but didn't work out for me
If you are going to place a level across the rail or turret, either the rifle must be leveled front to back, or the level must be exactly perpendicular to the barrel otherwise the bubble will roll to one side or the other. It is best to level the rifle and set the bubble perpendicular to the barrel.
Instead of locktite, i have always used fingernail polish. It holds, plus when you need to remove the screw or bolt. You can much easier than locktite. Also i only cover the around the head. Not the threads. Works great.
Hi Mr. Ron, my question is about Talley lightweight scope rings ( with the feet) which way should the feet point? I found Information once saying foot towards the shooter and foot to the muzzle. This is how I set up my Ruger American Ranch. I continue to see youtube "Experts" with Talley rings mounted in several different configurations. Is there a right and wrong way? Does it matter? Thank you for your time..
You definitely want some sort of lubricant in those threads or don’t be surprised when ya have issues removing them after exposure to outdoors (especially rain/high humidity). Blue thread compound is fine for this.
Gentlemen, lapping the scope rings is always a good practice to prevent unnecessary torque on the tube. I notice that your mounting technique overlooked careful cant avoidance by using spirit levels from a fixed datum on the rifle compared to another spirit level on the top of the scope. Finally the use of an optical collimator with an appropriate caliber arbor will ensure printing on the paper target with the very first shot. Whatever works for you is just fine. The proof of the pudding is in the eating thereof.
Have a similar maven illuminated reticle scope. There is a red crescent shaped shadow at 10 and 4 o'clock when the reticle is lit - disappears at higher magnifications. Is this a fault or something to put up with?
If push comes to shove, you can always use the Old Indian Trick of putting a stick-on or lace-on cheek pad for too high of a scope. I know you know that.
A kid was helping me mount a scope one time. A really eager kid. Eager sets you up for failure. And I told him we'ld be using Loctite. A few days go by and he told me he had found a rainbow of colors of Loctite. And he asked me, as I was heading out the door that Morning, "What color Loctite are we going to use?" I was a little pre-occupied in getting to work and he kept asking me, "Are we going to use....?" So the last thing I told him was, "We are not going to use the Red." That Evening he proudly showed me what he had done that afternoon after school. The two portions of that particular scope mount were perfectly Loctited together. Gött sei Dank! Not on the rifle! "You used Rsd Loctite, didn't you?", "Yes, sir." But, I told you this Morning, "We are NOT going to use the Red Loctite." ..........................."I'm sorry, sir! I didn't hear the NOT!" I sent off for a new scope mount.
I have a question that has nothing to do with mounting a scope. Why can't I find any good info on the wildcat 6x45 (6mm .223rem) would this be a suitable deer rifle for my recoil sensitive wife?
Putting locktite on the base is a good idea. The locktite from what I was told will actually lube the threads and can over torque. Your milage may vary.
Good video, but just by eyeballing if its level i will Bet a lot of money on it that its not level, true the action up to the scope with Bubble levels and a plumb line
I'm a little surprised, that you didn't even mention or check to see, if the rail needed bedded to the action. And no matter how much your rings cost, I've found that 99% of 2 piece rings need lapped, especially considering the high cost of the scope. This doesn't look like a budget build, so the setup should to be nick-picky, in my opinion. Especially with someone else's money.
I’m sorry Ron, but after watching this video. I now can completely understand why you got such terrible accuracy Out of all those rifles!! You should ALWAYS push BOTH ring bases towards the FRONT of your action! So they won’t move under recoil…🤦🏻♂️
Yet, oddly enough, I reshot the Weatherby rifle from 30-06 Week using different ammo and punched a 1/2 MOA group. Just yesterday. Patty, a properly torqued ring-to-base shouldn't move regardless, but I like the idea of getting them snugged tightly in two directions. One tight against the back adds insurance against shifting backward should the front one begin to slip. In 5 decades, I've had but one scope slip its mounts, and that was in the rings, not the bases. So thanks for your concern and advice, but I think we're good.
Ron , I really appreciate your content. However, you should not be doing videos on how to mount scopes. So many things wrong in this video in your past videos, I don’t even wanna take the time to type them out. you want to see the right way to mount a scope go to Paramount tactical.
This guy is so outdated. For thirteen years I have had to replace those stupid short rails because scopes wouldn’t hold their zero. This is backwoods rambling outdated information.
You’re using Wheeler scope alignment bars…????…!!!!!!! OMG!! The worst alignment bars you can use!!!!!! Two points tells you nothing about the action being true straight..this is why you use precision alignment bars that have “Flat” contact points that you can easily see warpage/alignment very easily. My alignment bars are Kokopelli Alignment bars…I believe the gentleman that made these has passed on but others are out there that will absolutely show just how mid-aligned svope rings generally are. Where’s the bedding on the one piece mount base? Did you check to see if mount “Rocked like a see saw” before securing mount to receiver?? Again…at the very least you must lap the rings to help take out high spots inside scope rings to help relieve scope tube stress. You bet I’m critiquing you…this is “Not” the correct way to mount a scope and you csn block me and I’m sure you’ve iced out some of my comments. Misleading man..misleading in many ways.
Two cone shaped points touching cannot tell you if the reciever is warped sideways/concave/dished/etc…those two points cannot determine true alignment. It just shows two points touching. I learned the hard way using Wheeler Engineering scope alignment tools. Lapping rings with a warped receiver is nothing more than removing excess material pointlessly and ehat will happen is put your scope out of true alignment with the receiver…in other words your scope can end up pointed off left/right/up/down…then you’d have to depend on hopefully windage and/or elevation will compensate. But why not just do it right the first time?! My view is that this video “Is Not” the correct way to mount a scope. Because it is not. But by all means go for it…but my rifle builds are accurate and repeatable accuracy because I followed correct instructions and methods that are just that..correct. Best of luck
@@BusterBibb * I agree, at the very least, tighten down those pointed bars to see if there's a problem within the rings, and lap if there is. One problem with laying a level across the top of the scope cap is that the scope cap may not be flat. Another potential problem is lining up the cross hairs to a vertical line. This will make the scope look correct to the one shooting the rifle, but it does not make the scope actually square with the rifle. For many people, the rifle stock will not line up square when it is mounted into the shoulder pocket. Normal hunting/shooting distances will not be effected with this method of scope mounting, but shooting at extreme distances will. P.S. Want to have some fun? Try squaring up some old Weaver style rings.
Ron , I really appreciate your content. However, you should not be doing videos on how to mount scopes. So many things wrong in this video in your past videos, I don’t even wanna take the time to type them out. you want to see the right way amount a scope go to Paramount tactical.
Thanks to our sponsor Maven! Learn more about Maven here - mavenbuilt.com/
Finally… a scope mounting tutorial that started at the beginning! Up until now all i’ve seen are people starting by mounting the scope rings on an already installed base!
Knew I could depend on Ron!!
You should also test the eye relief on the highest scope magnification since that has the least room for error.
Exactly
Excellent point. I failed to mention that. Thanks for backing me up!
He didn’t mention that?
Yes. Set eye relief on highest magnification from the position you will most likely be shooting from. If you shoot prone a lot or expect to on a hunt, then go prone setting eye relief.
Love Ron's videos! I used to have a smith mount my scopes but obviously the eye relief was never right. Decided to learn how to do it. Found out that it's not rocket science. I use the plumb bob technique. Basically, find your eye relief (with scope at max power), level the rifle then shine a flash light through the front end to match the plumb bob. Torque the rings to spec and your done.
I mounted one for my son a couple of nights ago. He was amazed at how simple it was.
Great video Ron, I've been using Blue loctite on my Enduro motorcycle for 20+ years, same for my rifle scope bolts. Never had any problems with removing the bolts.
Boy Ron this young gentleman is very lucky to have a great teacher like you! I've learned mostly everything on my own. I am very proficient now but made a lot of mistakes along the way. HAPPY HUNTING!!
It’s so cool that you thoroughly address the viewers “concerns” when they are brought up!
Heck, I just got done watching your last video of swapping scopes back and forth, and now this!
Thanks so much for the always excellent videos, sir!
Thank you, Ryan
Great video! I screwed up mounting scopes until I got a Wheeler scope mounting kit, and the reticle leveler. All my scopes are good to go now. Money well spent, in my opinion.
An absolute treasure trove of great info. The amount of time I put into levelling an interchangeable scope was apparently WAY too much.
Thanks, Ron, you are a legend!
Well Done.. Mounted a bunch over the years n just about all like you outlined here.
I have started using the Wheeler Scope Leveler. I find it helps kept it level when tighten the rings down. More piece of mind than anything else.
If you use the included wrench, tight is tight, its a short handle for the reason to pretty much avoid over torquing
I happen to have a new rifle and scope to put together. Perfect timing. Great video, thank you.
What I have found on several of my rifles is the pic rail adds about 3/16 of height compared to standard bases. With the pic rail go with low rings.
Hi Ron, another great video. You had mentioned that the picatinny rail makes it more difficult to load bolt action rifles from the top. I purchased a one piece scope mounting ring system that eliminates the need for a picatinny rail. The company is called DNZ Products, Precision Rifle Scope Mounting System. No lapping needed and no picatinny rail in the way. Works great when top loading my Winchester model 70.
Here comes the scope mounting commandos . Y’all did just fine .
No they didn’t….no bedding on mount base and they used junky very inaccurate Wheeler Scope Alignment Bars…the very worst.
Two points (the pointed ends touching never shows true alignment..it can’t!) never tell if the receiver is truly straight.
No ring lapping…oh gez….,
These videos are for the average guy, I'm sure pro shooters that have money on the line will take a bit more care in mounting a scope
Average guy? That’s me all over. But decent scopes are expensive let alone expensive scopes. Not to mention what it costs to shoot anymore on top of what it hosts to go hunting.
I do not hunt any longer. The reasons are many but to say I’ve spent mega thousands to go out of state/in state to risk missing an animal because of a poorly installed scope just doesn’t set well with me.
Oh yes I was very green for too many years. But I found out it was not only enjoyable to have consistent accuracy it was also fun learning how to install scopes correctly and epoxy bed actions…change out junky factory triggers and so forth.
I’ll tell you another joy I discovered doing gun work correctly. Is when smug owners of expensive customer rifles looked down their king noses on my home brewed rifles..snd id outshoot them.
Pure bliss!!
Clayman you were right. They always show up with some very specific steps they have heard of to mention that is the ONLY way to do something. I've never used the ring alignment bars nor lapped scope rings and I have a bunch of varmint rifles that shoot tiny groups and the scopes work perfectly. It's mostly insecurity that makes these guys have to show "how much" they know. That and a lack of experience with guns in general. They learn a little and think they know it all.
Pard..unless you’re a bonafide qualified experienced gunsmith…give your condescending smug remark in check.
There’s lots of us “Very Experienced” ordinary gun owners that learned from real pros on installation of rifle optics.
And I’m sure I’ll continue to see lots of very bad scope installations snd I do every single time I go to a rifle range.
Kapeesh?
Ron,
I liked the format used today. Please add it to your repertoire. I also like your forums, but my favorite is watching you shoot.
Awesome video. Thanks for all of your
experience.
Remember you get a dry and wet toque specs to torque your bolts, please refer to manufacturer
Good explanation. I used to think I always wanted the scope as low as possible but now buy rings that set the scope height to center the reticle to where my eye is as the stock is mounted to my shoulder. The mount rifle with eyes closed then open them to see the scope height and relief method helps determine this.
A few times I have ordered both low and medium rings to try. Almost always used the mediums. 😅😅
I use crazy glue and duct tape and adhere it to the bottom of the stock. It changes how you shoot, but has huge dividends in the end.
I absolutely recommend Fix It Sticks bubble leveling kit. Level the picatinny to the barrel, then the barrel to the scope, then rhe scope to the plumb bob, then add a permanent level to the picatinny, then do a ladder test, then make sure the scope is
Great video, Ron. I learned a few things that I didn't know. Thanks
I’ve heard loctite will allow slightly more inchLbs then the reading on your wrench, that is it will be slightly tighter then tour wrench reading. It may not be an issue. Screw threads with stretch and weaken if over tight but shouldn’t be a problem unless you’re way above torque specs.
Spot on sir. -W. Liggett
When setting your eye relief you should do it wearing the clothes you plan on hunting with.
* Setting the scope as far forward while still maintaining a full field of view ( when wearing a summer shirt ), should give you plenty of proper eye relief when wearing heavy winter clothing.
In a perfect world, the rings are directly above the base screws. However, as you noted, the rings must often be positioned so that proper eye relief is achieved while still supporting the scope properly.
I would be interested in hearing your recommendations on the minimum distance between the scope bell and the barrel or front of the base when longer bases are being used? I've heard all sorts of rules of thumb on this one, anywhere from an eighth of an inch to the width of a credit card.
My opinion - I go with low or medium rings on a hunting rifle and a typical deer hunting scope with top end of 12 power. I like good cheek weld and align to my eye.
Good one Ron.
Always good with some education.
I use the picatinny rail because I have a hard time aligning the 2 piece setups to the point I couldn't sight the rifle because I max out the adjustments. Tried a few times but didn't work out for me
If you are going to place a level across the rail or turret, either the rifle must be leveled front to back, or the level must be exactly perpendicular to the barrel otherwise the bubble will roll to one side or the other. It is best to level the rifle and set the bubble perpendicular to the barrel.
I use dnz one piece mounts on all my rifles. Less moving parts
The one time in forty years that I didn't use lock-tite was the only time I had loose hardware. (Gunsmith mounted it and said it didn't need it).🤬
Instead of locktite, i have always used fingernail polish. It holds, plus when you need to remove the screw or bolt. You can much easier than locktite. Also i only cover the around the head. Not the threads. Works great.
Thanks for the tip, Wysman. I used to use that years ago and it did work. And, you can choose your favorite color!
@RonSpomerOutdoors Yes you can! Right from your significant others makeup drawer!😂🤠
With modern light bodied scopes any twisting caused by unlapped rings can cause wandering zero and other issues.
Hi Mr. Ron, my question is about Talley lightweight scope rings ( with the feet) which way should the feet point? I found Information once saying foot towards the shooter and foot to the muzzle. This is how I set up my Ruger American Ranch. I continue to see youtube "Experts" with Talley rings mounted in several different configurations. Is there a right and wrong way? Does it matter? Thank you for your time..
You definitely want some sort of lubricant in those threads or don’t be surprised when ya have issues removing them after exposure to outdoors (especially rain/high humidity).
Blue thread compound is fine for this.
Good tutorial! 😊
Thank you!
Great video!
How u like the Maven scope? I have their 30x scope, id put it in the same category as my Rzr gen2
Gentlemen, lapping the scope rings is always a good practice to prevent unnecessary torque on the tube. I notice that your mounting technique overlooked careful cant avoidance by using spirit levels from a fixed datum on the rifle compared to another spirit level on the top of the scope. Finally the use of an optical collimator with an appropriate caliber arbor will ensure printing on the paper target with the very first shot.
Whatever works for you is just fine. The proof of the pudding is in the eating thereof.
* When putting a level across the top of the scope cap, make sure the top of the scope cap is level and not concave.
Used to call
It Weatherby eyebrow when the recoil punched the scope tube into your noggin 😂
@Ronspomeroutdoors122 was this in reply to my comment mate ? Not real flash at UA-cam replies
I love my Talley one piece rings....
I like using my tripod. It's just easier for me to level the base and then adjust eye relief without moving the rifle.
Have always used rubbing alcohol to degrease the holes n screws.
So where can we get a couple of these?
They are sold out on the website
When checking eye relief, do we adjust the scope to full magnification?
Yes. This is where vignettes are most noticeable
Many rings and bases are dissimilar metals, I use never sieze in those applications on my screws, torqued properly, have never had a problem.
Have a similar maven illuminated reticle scope.
There is a red crescent shaped shadow at 10 and 4 o'clock when the reticle is lit - disappears at higher magnifications. Is this a fault or something to put up with?
I use clear fingernail polish from the dollarstore🤣 for loctite
Good idea!
Can you do a short episode on 41 magnum
Ron do you like 1 piece base scope bases or two piece ?
Two. Talley Ultra lights my fav.
If push comes to shove, you can always use the Old Indian Trick of putting a stick-on or lace-on cheek pad for too high of a scope. I know you know that.
A kid was helping me mount a scope one time. A really eager kid. Eager sets you up for failure. And I told him we'ld be using Loctite. A few days go by and he told me he had found a rainbow of colors of Loctite. And he asked me, as I was heading out the door that Morning, "What color Loctite are we going to use?" I was a little pre-occupied in getting to work and he kept asking me, "Are we going to use....?" So the last thing I told him was, "We are not going to use the Red." That Evening he proudly showed me what he had done that afternoon after school. The two portions of that particular scope mount were perfectly Loctited together. Gött sei Dank! Not on the rifle! "You used Rsd Loctite, didn't you?", "Yes, sir." But, I told you this Morning, "We are NOT going to use the Red Loctite." ..........................."I'm sorry, sir! I didn't hear the NOT!"
I sent off for a new scope mount.
My friend what about set a scope for a 3006 pump
@Ronspomeroutdoors122 I'm not sure what you are talking about
I have a question that has nothing to do with mounting a scope. Why can't I find any good info on the wildcat 6x45 (6mm .223rem) would this be a suitable deer rifle for my recoil sensitive wife?
Have you thought about the 6.8 SPC…?
Putting locktite on the base is a good idea. The locktite from what I was told will actually lube the threads and can over torque. Your milage may vary.
I’m not buying a Maven scope, but I will buy a TRACT.
Good video, but just by eyeballing if its level i will Bet a lot of money on it that its not level, true the action up to the scope with Bubble levels and a plumb line
That blue thread locker is just an added insurance.
How do you take the rail off if the scope is over the screws?
We weren't taking the rails off. No need to unless you want to change your mounting system
Those rings are higher than Willie.
I'm a little surprised, that you didn't even mention or check to see, if the rail needed bedded to the action. And no matter how much your rings cost, I've found that 99% of 2 piece rings need lapped, especially considering the high cost of the scope. This doesn't look like a budget build, so the setup should to be nick-picky, in my opinion. Especially with someone else's money.
I’m sorry Ron, but after watching this video. I now can completely understand why you got such terrible accuracy
Out of all those rifles!!
You should ALWAYS push BOTH ring bases towards the FRONT of your action! So they won’t move under recoil…🤦🏻♂️
that dont make any sense. tight is tight no matter where they are sitting
What?....
Yet, oddly enough, I reshot the Weatherby rifle from 30-06 Week using different ammo and punched a 1/2 MOA group. Just yesterday. Patty, a properly torqued ring-to-base shouldn't move regardless, but I like the idea of getting them snugged tightly in two directions. One tight against the back adds insurance against shifting backward should the front one begin to slip. In 5 decades, I've had but one scope slip its mounts, and that was in the rings, not the bases. So thanks for your concern and advice, but I think we're good.
Very polite Ron
Oh yeah first. 😎
First? I might be mistaken, but I believe this is not Ron’s first time mounting a scope.
If he mounts scopes the same way he chooses shirts, I see the problem.
Ron , I really appreciate your content. However, you should not be doing videos on how to mount scopes. So many things wrong in this video in your past videos, I don’t even wanna take the time to type them out. you want to see the right way to mount a scope go to Paramount tactical.
This guy is so outdated.
For thirteen years I have had to replace those stupid short rails because scopes wouldn’t hold their zero.
This is backwoods rambling outdated information.
You’re using Wheeler scope alignment bars…????…!!!!!!! OMG!! The worst alignment bars you can use!!!!!!
Two points tells you nothing about the action being true straight..this is why you use precision alignment bars that have “Flat” contact points that you can easily see warpage/alignment very easily.
My alignment bars are Kokopelli Alignment bars…I believe the gentleman that made these has passed on but others are out there that will absolutely show just how mid-aligned svope rings generally are.
Where’s the bedding on the one piece mount base? Did you check to see if mount “Rocked like a see saw” before securing mount to receiver??
Again…at the very least you must lap the rings to help take out high spots inside scope rings to help relieve scope tube stress.
You bet I’m critiquing you…this is “Not” the correct way to mount a scope and you csn block me and I’m sure you’ve iced out some of my comments.
Misleading man..misleading in many ways.
if the points match up why lap.
Two cone shaped points touching cannot tell you if the reciever is warped sideways/concave/dished/etc…those two points cannot determine true alignment. It just shows two points touching.
I learned the hard way using Wheeler Engineering scope alignment tools.
Lapping rings with a warped receiver is nothing more than removing excess material pointlessly and ehat will happen is put your scope out of true alignment with the receiver…in other words your scope can end up pointed off left/right/up/down…then you’d have to depend on hopefully windage and/or elevation will compensate. But why not just do it right the first time?!
My view is that this video “Is Not” the correct way to mount a scope. Because it is not. But by all means go for it…but my rifle builds are accurate and repeatable accuracy because I followed correct instructions and methods that are just that..correct.
Best of luck
@@BusterBibb * I agree, at the very least, tighten down those pointed bars to see if there's a problem within the rings, and lap if there is. One problem with laying a level across the top of the scope cap is that the scope cap may not be flat. Another potential problem is lining up the cross hairs to a vertical line. This will make the scope look correct to the one shooting the rifle, but it does not make the scope actually square with the rifle. For many people, the rifle stock will not line up square when it is mounted into the shoulder pocket. Normal hunting/shooting distances will not be effected with this method of scope mounting, but shooting at extreme distances will.
P.S. Want to have some fun? Try squaring up some old Weaver style rings.
And those Weaver Tings…🤣🤣🤣..God they were a joke weren’t they?! But I along with others used them here and there in “my” younger “Idiot Years”!
🤣
Ughhh rails on a bolt action rifle. They belong on AR’s not bolt actions.
Ron , I really appreciate your content. However, you should not be doing videos on how to mount scopes. So many things wrong in this video in your past videos, I don’t even wanna take the time to type them out. you want to see the right way amount a scope go to Paramount tactical.