Rifle Cleaning | Long-Range Rifle Shooting with Ryan Cleckner
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Former Army Ranger sniper team leader Ryan Cleckner describes how he cleans his rifle and lets you in on some tips and tricks.
Looking for more long range shooting instruction? Ryan Cleckner’s book, Long Range Shooting Handbook, is the complete beginner's guide to long range shooting written in simple every-day language so that it's easy to follow. Included are personal tips and best advice from his years of special operations sniper schooling and experience, and as a sniper instructor. If you are an experienced shooter, this guide will be a resource covering the principles and theory of long range shooting. Find it on Amazon.com: amzn.com/151865...
(subscribers note: re-upload of video posted 9/27/12- we added a few close ups to improve the video. Thanks for the great comments sorry if they're missing)
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This is my first time watching your videos. I have already used some of your information and they work really well. I am a 73-year old lady who has just bought my first rifle, a Ruger 10/22, and I enjoy the process of teaching myself new things about gun ownership. I will certainly be watching more of your videos. Thanks for the info!!
I first saw this video around the time they posted it, I immediately went to the food store, bought a jar of baby food apple sauce, ate it, cleaned it and filled it with patches and solvent... still use that same jar
Seriously? Top man, brilliant!!!
Beings I clean my rifles indoors, I put a 32oz Gatorade bottle over the muzzle before running the cleaning rod through it. This keeps the solvent from spraying everywhere when the brush comes out the end.
I also use a Gatorade bottle to put my dirty patches in, screw the lid on, and no more solvent smell in the house/gun room due to them being exposed in the trash can.
My wet patches are kept in a Pimento jar, works perfect!! I too use a fishing tackle box as my gun gleaning kit. Super super nice!!
Not a bad idea!!
Thanks for addressing the "scrubbing with a brush" issue that some people claim hurts the barrel. I always wondered how the brass(copper + zinc) bristles moving at 1ft/sec could hurt a steel barrel!
I thought It was funny this guy uses the same technics as the guy that wrote the book “ long range shooting for beginners”. I then realized it is the same guy. It is a well written book.
I have to say that while I have been recreationally shooting most of my life (I'm now 47) I learn a lot from this channel and Ryan. Thank you!
It doesn't really matter how long you've been shooting and maintaining your weapons, you're going to learn good tips from this guy.
NSSF has quality and sane shooting info and tips....two thumbs up!
The small jar of wet patches is a great tip. It saves me a lot of time when cleaning. I found a jar of pimentos at my grocery store that works perfect.
Hah, same thing here with the pimentos jar.
This guy is the man!
Every video that I've seen him in he's been concise, to the point and very informative-thanks for sharing your vast knowledge, Mr Cleckner :-)
You can also wrap a patch around a copper brush. The patch sticks right to it like Velcro and it it contacts the whole barrel
Another person that knows what they are actually talking about. Great Comment!
I only do this with a shot gun. Through a .30 cal barrel or a .22 cal, it gets really hard.
By the right patches, loops and jags and the patch will contact the barrel completely without having bristles sticking through it.
It doesn't work so well for me. When I try that, I have a terrible time picking pieces of patch that are still stuck on the bristles.
Use old cotton T-shirt material. I never buy patches, aspecially bad are the fuzzy ones, they will leave pieces. Yes 17 brush for .223's. @@BHFilms1997
Finally someone teaching the right way to clean a gun and it only took about 15 minutes...Thank you Ryan for all you are doing in these videos
First used the Parker-Hale style jags almost 50 years ago in cadet service rifle match training. I've stuck with them ever since, and never had a problem. Great idea about having the pre-moistened patches in a little jar. Always some new trick to learn! Thanks for posting this.
Thank GOD someone knows that direction of cleaning means NOTHING compared to the direction of travel of the round itself. Definitely recommend SUBSCRIBING here as a U.S. Army Veteran.
You also can’t damage the crown if you use a Dewy rod with a brush that fits flush meaning there’s no neck collar on the brush that screws over the rod...even if you extend 2 feet out the barrel, when you pull back, the brush finds it’s way back inside the barrel without slamming the collar into it...Tipton or dewy rods are great
Thank you. Cleaning my Weatherby 308 for the first time and this is very helpful!
Alexander Valdes iii
For those of us who don't live in Arizona, who have Pacific Northwest rainforest to contend with, I imagine you'd recommend doing a quick pass over the bolt, action, and barrel with a microfiber cloth with a touch of quality gun oil? Anything I'm forgetting?
When you're opening the bolt on the 700, if you pull a bit more than you did, you'll see a groove on the firing pin where you can stick a dime in there to stop the firing pin from dropping back into the bolt. That way you don't need to fuss around with 4 rotations, just pull once, insert dime/washer/penny, continue to unscrew. Saves on shoe laces as well. You'll need to do it in reverse when putting it back together too.
Thought I knew how to clean a rifle. Thanks for the tutorial Ryan.
How am I just finding this video now? This is awesome. Thanks Ryan.
As a professional gunsmith and long time target shooter , Never leave any solvent in a barrel , I will guarantee it will pit even a stainless barrel I have enough take offs to prove it. Even Hoppies #9 left in a barrel on a patch is enough . Leave it dry if its a SS barrel or steel dry it out whith a couple of patches and then oil it and clean it before you shoot the next match .
I love the tip about the baby food jar! I'm hunting one as I write this! Great job, Ryan, as always!
Always come back to this one.
Ryan's book on long range shooting is the best I've ever read on the topic.
I misplaced my Parker Hale jags and have been using the spear tips for several months. I'm going to Brownell's to pick up some new Parker Hale's now. Thanks Ryan.
You sir, are A STAR. Learning so much from you!
Has to be one of the best cleaning videos ever produced.
Great videos! Just wanted to add that it may be a good idea to invest in a box of latex or nylon gloves just because, as you mentioned, some of these cleaning chemicals are caustic.
would washing your hands be good enough?
@@mikuhatsunegoshujin yes
Well that and keeping the grease tube cap out of your mouth. (Read with sarcastic tone inflected.) I am also a former 1/75th back in the day of the stubby scroll, not a sniper, just an AG and then a team leader. The shooters would go to the schools and then give in-house classes on things they learned. Any tips to increase accuracy and lethality was always welcomed. Sua Sponte.
I also find that cleaning after every shoot is detrimental to the accuracy of my rifle. If I clean the bore with solvent, removing the fouling, I have to foul the barrel when next used sometimes with as many as 10 shots, to reestablish the best accuracy. I usually dry patch only after practice or competition. I have shot as many as 10 matches with all the practice involved before using solvent in the bore. Saves the cost of the cartridges and wear on the bore from firing them. Like your method!
I am stealing the jar of wet patches idea! Awesome!
This is a great video. The presentation, production, the methods and techniques introduced, the presenter. Very, very well done.
The comments concerning the "wrapping patches around the jag" made me finally really understand why my dad used to wrap his patches around the brush. If the powder he used in a particular load tended to leave significant residue, he would hit the bore with the "naked" brush, and then affix a soaked patch around the brush and make a few passes...replacing as needed until one came through clean... then a final oiled patch. The "brush patches" ended up looking like the ones in this video... no "clean areas" as with a typical jagged patch. After shorter sessions at the range or after hunting (using cleaner burning powders) he would even simplify the process a bit further and only use a solvent soaked patched brush... leaving maybe 1/2" of the brush not covered by the patch...and then a final oiled one once a solvent soaked patch came through "clean". This abbreviated process virtually eliminated ANY solvent splatter. Growing up, I didn't know anyone else who cleaned their rifle bores in this fashion...now I better understand why dad did!
As an aside... he used patches no thicker than "T-shirt material" for smaller calibers such as a .22 so as not to be overly tight pushing the patched brush through the bore. And if using an aggressive copper solvent on certain rifle barrels he knew had a tendency to "copper foul", often on a NEW firearm or one having a rough bore, he used a "non-patched" brush. Otherwise, attempting to clean with a soaked patch attached until you saw "no trace of green" was a wasted effort, as these solvents (as mentioned in the video) "greened" simply from the copper in the brush.
First of all, thank you for your service to our country. Second, thank you for the fine series of videos you've made. All that I have seen thus far are excellent.
I wonder if you'd consider making an AR-15 cleaning video. I'd be interested in what you consider the proper cleaning steps. In particular, cleaning of the chamber, lugs and bolt/bcg.
Jerry Miculek has a great video on AR cleaning
Great video. Well presented, clear, and easy to follow. Learned some great things, even after decades of cleaning firearms. Thanks.
Thanks again for the great instructional video! I think I've seen most of your videos here and I've learned tons from each of them. Awesome stuff!
This is the best rifle cleaning video i've ever seen. I love this guys video's.
Now I've watched all vids with Ryan Cleckner and they all are great. Thanks for These videos guys.
Thank you, for years I have debunked many of the cleaning myths, which I learned in my youth.
It was a expert old guy trick shooter who showed me the truth. You just proved all I have ever done since learning the truth.
this is the only video that actually makes sense. some people be making up their own method for no reason at all. 😂 great job man. 👌🏻
thanks, that was a lot of good information!
Recently I started using the bore-squgee from Remington and Bushmaster. I am seriously impressed with how these clean my guns. Has anybody else used these?
Great info…..appreciate your videos and also got your book, Long Range Shooting…. My accuracy is jump tremendously…from dry fire exercises to using a rear bag…. And much more…
Wow, all of Cleckner's videos are full of good info. He fills in on a lot of questions ive had for years
Thank you for the information! Great job as always, as I've listened to your other educational videos. Wonderfully presented!
Great info. Straight to the point and incisive.
Thanks brother for the video. I'm a beginner long range shooter, your video was really helpful
Really useful tips there. Thanks
This video was very helpful & informative. Thanks for posting!
Cleck is the man!!! No fancy-pansy junk, just a chile jar and an old Tshirt! Not trying to sell you a bunch of useless crap.
Thanks for all the great tips! Excellent series.
I solved my solvent bottle tip-over (everybody's done it) by finding a short piece of steel tube the bottle just slips into and welding a 3"steel disc to the bottom of the tube. Now the bottle has a nice base larger in diameter than the bottle so you would really have to work at it to have a spill. Great cleaning procedure, thanks.
The best educational videos on long range shooting! His books - a must haves!!! Congrats NSSF and thanks, Ryan!
This is fantastic. I love the shoelace trick. I've never seen that one I normally just use a small allen wrench. Your way is much better. I'm glad you talked about moving a brush back and forth to scrub a barrel clean. I think a lot of "only push in one direction" stuff comes from people not having a bore guide in the field and not wanting to have gunk spray off the brush into the action. Great job.
That was good and very informative. Thanks for sharing.
A piece of 2x4 (oil (wet) / dry) in a pull-through was what did it in my day - for just about everything.
I liked ypur book
Thank you
Long Range Shooting Handbook_ Complete Beginner’s Guide to Long Range Shooting_By Ryan Cleckner
_Good quality cleaning rod
Stainless is the best, one Piece Rods, and Nylon Coated (Use Nylon coated rods from J. Dewey)
_A chamber guide is a nice tool to have.
_Bore brush (caliber specific): Copper
This will loosen and remove some of the large carbon and metal fouling from the bore.
Keep the brush for Solvent separate from the brush for lubrication
_Cleaning jags for each caliber
Use Dewey Parker Hale Style Rifle Cleaning Jag (use male not female)
_Cleaning patches (caliber specific, lint and fiber-free) length equal to the Cleaning Jag
Patch dipped in bore solvent. Allow the cleaning solvent to break down bore fouling for 10-15 min. Dry patch to remove any residue and keep running it through the bore until the patch comes out clean.
_Cleaning chemicals, including bore cleaners, action cleaners, and lubricants
Use Solvent Shooter's Choice
Sweets 7.62 Solvent for copper remover
I know of at least one premium barrel manufacturer who says that dragging a brush back across the muzzle crown is responsible for more barrel damage than anything else. However, I suspect that is because the end of the brush is usually made of steel and can sometimes be of a larger diameter than a cleaning rod. In a circumstance like that, it would certainly be advisable to push the brush in one direction only - down the receiver and out the muzzle.
New to cleaning riffles and this video has really helped. Very good and helpful information for a first timer. Thankyou
Use brakleen spray to wash cleaner out of copper brushes and wash inside bolt body and barrel after initial brushing , don't use solvents in warm or hot barrels, use light oil on firing pin for winter shooting where grease will be thick, Remington bolts have a small slot you can insert a dime into for disassembly and assembly, J&B boreclean on patch will help remove fouling. Fire a few shots to slightly foul ore before ammo testing on paper. A super clean barrel isn't real world condition for testing or competition. Visually check bore and chamber after cleaning to make sure no patch or other contaminants remain. Enjoy
Correction, slightly foul "bore"
Holy shit....this dude just solved all my gun cleaning problems......
That is simple and easy rifle cleaning. So this is good.
Sorry, I misunderstood. I was only giving you a hard time...I hope you weren't offended. Your comment was good advice. I do much the same except I use Ed's Red bore solvent that I mixed up myself. I made about 5 gallons of cleaning solution for $30 - I'll never have to buy Hoppe's again. I mixed it without the acetone so I don't have to worry about destroying my stock finishes. It also works great for soaking pistol parts or in an ultrasonic cleaner for real thorough cleanings.
Ryan ,
Great tips , really like the stripping of the bolt using your boot.
You do a great job -very well spoken.
THANK you! I've been shooting pistols for 25 years and always pass my brush in and out of my barrel.....and guess what....even my old guns out-shoot my friend's guns. :) I LOVE your patch jar idea! I'm going to do that too; thanks for the tip!
someone who actually knows what they are talking about
Yeah. It's always a good idea to "clean" guns on a dusty, sandy range/bench with cleaning equipment/supplies out of a "range bag" that's been out there on the same dusty/sandy range/bench.
DEEREMEYER1 It's called "Demonstration", friggin Idiot....
DEEREMEYER1 ..I see your shooting world is a pristine environment..ever consider there is a world of shooting you obviously know nothing about..? I cleaned my weapons in “sandy/dusty “ environment..out of a bag in Afghanistan for 6 years,...perhaps you should apply this old adage..”better to be silent and thought a fool..then speak..and remove all doubt “
The only problem that I have with this video is that grating sound when he's dragging that Parker-Hale jag across his crown when he pulls the rod back out of the barrel. Horrible!
DEEREMEYER1 That’s what you got out of this?
great handy tips that nobody tells you! this guy is very helpful.
I love this series. Keep 'em coming!
I've been watching you for a month now, you are a very good professor and very ergonomic person thanks for sharing
thanks ryan all 11 vids are in my top 20 favorites im just a biginer in the long range erea and its such a great feeling hitting targets at longer range.
from the dutchman in new zealand laters mate
gotta question shooters choice? you defiantly gave me some excellent tips. awesome thank you.
I've been using the Shooters choice cleaner as Ryan in the video for the past 2 years. Really good stuff. It's potent, smells like ammonia. It cleans really well. I also put my patches in a pammento jar. It works really slick!!
Great info! Thanks for the post.
Thanks again, Ryan. I try to watch everything you've posted, although I haven't made it through all your podcasts... :)
Great place to make video. No background noise. Instructor loud and clear voice. Subed & 👍
You sir are the best. You just gave me the best Idea (putting every thin in a fishing tackle box
Ok guys a tip he might have told you is when using the brush back and forward is ok as long as you dont reverse in the barrel and the tip, watch if you have a difference in thickness from the brush to the rod cause if there is a step you will knock the shit out of your crown and also doing it all the time is problematic for the crown so when coming back take it slow until its in
Rather than go first with brush do wet patch first then use the brush or it gets back in the chamber pouring it on the brush but he is basically got most pretty good
First many thanks for all your EXCELLENT Videos on shooting sports and equipment. I have learned so much. Now when you said you leave a wet patch of shooter's choice inside the barrel I was taken back a bit. Evidently you don't think that the Shooter's Choice Solvent will do any damage to the barrel if it's left inside the barrel for a long time? Maybe you shoot more often than I do. I've always finished up cleaning the inside of my barrel by adding a little bit (drop or two of light weight oil) onto a dry patch and then running that patch down the barrel to leave a thin film of oil on the inside of my barrel. Am I doing this wrong? Maybe shooter's choice is not as corrosive as I thought. Years ago I always used Hoppe's No. 9 to clean all my guns and always finished with some oil on a new patch after cleaning with the Hoppe's No. 9. But I kept my guns in storage for a long time too. I didn't shoot that often when I was in college. But these days I shoot a lot more. So I just wanted to double check and make sure that it's OK to leave some shooters choice inside the barrel and not use oil at the end of the cleaning process. Does shooters choice help protect the inside of the barrel from rusting?
Another great thing to do is make sure your scope glass is covered if you don't have flip covers. You can really damage your scope glass if you get solvent on it.
From what I've learned, most bench rest shooters and competition shooters will only push a brush through one way (the way the bullet travels) and they do not pull the brush back over the crown. Also cleaning is know to wear-out a barrel faster as seen when competition shooters clean after every shot trying to achieve more consistency.
+Tcamp OK compare a copper coated FMJ bullet going down the barrel with carbon powder all around and behind it at over 2500 Ft/sec and then a bronze brush going down the barrel at about 18" in 2 seconds. I clean my AR15 and Remington Model 660 222 rifle the same way that Ryan does. I guess he could take more time to remove the jag and brush off the end of the cleaning rod before pulling the rod back down the barrel and then put it back on and push it though again from the breach but man that's doing it the slow way. My Ambush Firearms AR15 5.56 has a treaded end on the barrel that protected by a screw on barrel protector. So do I need to worry about the crown on my AR15 when cleaning it like Ryan did in this video? I"ll go check the other guy out and see how he cleans his rifle barrels .If you study geology you learn about how different rocks have different levels of hardness. Diamond will cut though other stones as they are harder than the other stones. Likewise High Strength Steel is much harder than the bronse brushes and or the coated cleaning rods. I"m not that worried about pulling the brush back down the barrel as long as I don't reverse the direction of the brush until it clears the end of the barrel and the breach at the other and. But I'm not afraid of a nylon brush bristles hurting the inside of my 4150 Nitride Bath Coated Barrel while cleaning my gun. Ryan said basically the same thing in this video.
+Glenn Yea I don't disagree with his or your methods at all. If I had an AR-15 and had a nice barrel that I knew was built well and made to handle thousands of rounds I would not worry either. As I would know the barrel is made to handle abuse. However if I had a benchrest rifle, I would def. not pull my brush back through the barrel. Keeping in mind a benchrest rifle entails more work and patients anyways. I also use a nylon brush so that I can minimize wear. About hardness, yes you wont see much wear from copper or bronze on steel or else your barrels would never last as long as they do. You do still see some though, which adds up over thousands of rounds and cleanings, which is what I was getting to in my previous comment. Sorry no time to proof read.I also don't remember everything about this video as it was a year ago but if i made a mistake just point it out
Glenn I forgot to reply instead of just comment Look above
@Tyler -- Some people are so superstitious they'll adopt a routine that has no serious logical, physical or rational reason behind it. Maybe to eliminate psychological "what if...?" static from their minds, I'd guess.
you might as well take a chain saw to that barrel most people gently clean a precision rifle he just goes all out on it
That sounds like a great deal. If you haven't had someone send one in by the end of hunting season I just might have to take you up on that.
Thanks for answering. Yes, I'm talking about modern propellants. I think cleaning barrels is way over done and unneccessary but companys need to move product to make money whether your barrel needs it or not. Wouldn't you consider each shot fired with modern propellants a type of cleaning and removal of excessive copper fouling as well? Actually, I see copper fouling which fills microscopic pores and voids as a benefit in repeatability of shot placement.
Sweets 7.2 is best copper remover I don't use nothing else.. too many solvents out there that are worthless.can get confusing.i agree with your choice of jags.ive been using the small jars to hold my brushes and jags for 20 years...good video.thks
Wow!! Probably the first cleaning video that I agree with pretty much everything in it. Great job! Thought he was eating that grease for a minute, Just kidding
You ROCK Ryan... Thanks again!
I really like the practical tips on these videos.
I've used those "little eyelets" for decades and the rifles and shotguns I've used them on are anywhere from 5 to 100+ years old and all shoot very well and have "bright" and "tight" bores. Patches through loops don't turn into "sandpaper" when abrasives get between them and the bore and they have room to expand and contract. Most jags are too large or their "specified" bores when used with "standard" patches and you have to use smaller and/or thinner patches with them. They also can't be used to "mop" chambers or with an oiled patch to lube a freshly cleaned bore. Patches and other "consumable" cleaning products are CHEAP and you don't "save money" or "save time" going light on patches/product/passes. If you're running patches through to "test" your cleaning "so far" and see if you're still "breaking loose" that "black stuff", you're probably not using fewer patches regardless and when done "right" a cleaning procedure should only require ONE "wet" patch and with loops you can "scrub" the bore with patches while jags are "one-way" patch pushers. Scrubbing with soft, flexible patches and loops should clean any GOOD bore that's not "fouled" because the bore/bullet/load/shooter are "off" and are causing hot gas leakage past the bullets melting metal off them and "soldering" it to the barrel bore with a handful of patches at most. If you have copper fouling, there's something wrong with your barrel, bullets or brain and you're seeing something that not only isn't "OK" or "good" or "normal", you're seeing something that to SMART shooters/gun guys is a clear RED FLAG that something is WRONG. And you have no business "educating" anybody else on proper cleaning if you don't realize fouling is ABNORMAL which is why you don't see "fouling removers" as part of "standard" gun cleaning/maintenance kits for "normal" guns and maintenance. Do you REALLY think anything that CAN AND WILL DAMAGE YOUR BORE WITH "EXCESSIVE" EXPOSURE OF THE BORE TO THAT PRODUCT ON A "TIME BASIS" IS SOMETHING YOU WANT TO BE AND SHOULD BE USING EVERY TIME YOU CLEAN A RIFLE? EXPOSURE OF THE BARREL TO THOSE PRODUCTS WILL EVENTUALLY DAMAGE IT OVER A LONG STRETCH OF "SHORT" EXPOSURE TIMES JUST LIKE IT WILL WITH ONE EXPOSURE FOR "EXCESSIVE" TIME. "FROSTED" BORES CAN OCCUR IN ONE "CLEANING" OR OVER MANY "CLEANINGS" ALTHOUGH IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANY MORE ABOUT RIFLES THAN TO THINK "FOULING" IS "NORMAL", YOU PROBABLY DON'T KNOW WHAT "FROSTING" IS ANYWAY.
LOL, yes, I still use my army cleaning rods from 1990. If I need to split a knat's ass at 3,000, I'll buy an M2.
Thanks for the info ! 😊
This is the best video I have watched on this subject. Thanks!
Oddly enough, the smith who built my edge told me to never use a brush in the barrel. A good friend talked me into using a brush, made a hell of a difference!!
Nylon bore brushes have replaced "all" my metal bore brushes in my gun cleaning kit. As my gun-builder noted decades ago - "we clean the rifle bore to remove the accumulated copper (which is metal), why use a metallic bore brush when nylon ones are available and work just as well", (especial when used properly w/ Sweets 7.62 as Ryan noted).
@@DwnRange indeed. I never bought a brush for my edge because I was told not to brush it. Well, now I am looking for a good bore brush. I used a brass brush the other day for the first time. It was the first time I could ever fit a full sized patch down the tube so, yeah, it was fouled bad!
@@jwoodward1776 Look at Bore Tech Proof Positive line of jags and brushes...no copper.
Wow! I just learning a few new things.
All these people naysaying.... I'll wager that Cleckner has fired more rounds through this rifle than the naysayers have fired their entire lives....
Perhaps technically he's ever so slightly eroding the crown cleaning this way, but he's likely wearing out a barrel from simply shooting before his precious crown suffers any notable damage....
He’s not hurting the barrel with that dewy rod and brush. It’s a flush neck so there’s no collar slamming back into the crown when he pulls the brush back through.... barrels are usually good for 1-2k rounds depending on the velocities and other specs of the ammo. I love Ryan and the knowledge he shares with us for free
@@sub_second_life3174 Cleckner loves his .308s. That’s what he recommends people start with in his long range shooting book if I recall correctly. .308 barrels last a LONG time, closer to 10-15k rounds. He knows his shit and has a ton of real world experience. Happy shooting!
This is very similar to the method that I use the main difference is for the receiver I use the eyelets and I'll use my M44 as an example i use a 20 gauge eyelet with a large patch run through and rapped around much like you did with the jag I find that this can get to the hard to reach places better also sometimes if needed I use this to coat the receiver with gun oil
Excellent
That jar trick is gonna make cleaning so much easier for me now.
I have a device I built that holds my rifle vertical (muzzel down) so that all the nasty stuff drops out the muzzel into a 5 gallon bucket. I also do not beleive you can easily damage the barrel like some people think. On my ARs I even take a chamber brush and put it in my cordless drill after about 30 seconds it looks brand new.
Great informative training, thanks
I had somewhat of a negative experience with leaving solvent in the barrel for next time. When I went back to it, it was covered in surface rust. Nothing oil and a brush couldn’t get rid of but I just wouldn’t be comfortable doing that again.
Great video, great information, thank you very much.
I've never used that jag but i use a nylon bore brush that's a caliber or two undersize and wrap a solvent soaked patch on it.
+Glock down I watched Rayan's Video a while back and then went to Deweys and purchased some of those Parker/Hale Type jags and they are great. They are much better than the pointed jags I used before. Just make sure that you don't use too large of a patch on them. And it takes a while to learn how to role the patch onto the jag. The jag has metal teeth that help to grip onto the patch and hold it onto the jag. They only make this in certain sizes as I can't find one for my 9 mm pistol. But I've got some for my ,177 cal air rifle and another for my 22 cal rifle which also works for my 222 cal rifle and my 223 cal rifle. Try them and you wil really like them. I also use the shooters choice and the baby food jars now days. I do the same with my Hoppe's Elite and my MPro7 cleaning solutions. But I need to find some smaller baby food type jars with better lids on them. The ones I'm using now don't have lids that screw on very good and the lids are prone to coming off easily. Rayan is one of the best guys on U tube IMHO. He is so smooth and he makes learning this information so easy. From putting on the scope to checking how the scope tracks to zeroing your scope/rifle at the range he makes it all look so easy.
I'd be careful about using a rod that's undersized, the rod is very likely to flex and rub against the inside of the bore. I'd recommend the stiffest rod you can find at the proper size with a handle that has a smooth bearing so it can turn freely under pressure. The Parker-Hale cleaning jag featured here has a bit of a learning curve, but it's well worth it. Traditional spiked jags have a nasty tendency to break at the tip or bind in the bore, leaving you with a busted jag or a bending rod in the bore. Both conditions are obviously sub-optimal. Further, the amount of surface area in the bore is very consistent with a Parker-Hale jag, unlike a traditional spiked jag that leaves patch material gathered
Really great info Ryan, thanks. Big thumbs up.
good advice, a few home truths there.