How to Mount a Rifle Scope: Rifle Scope Tips with Ryan Cleckner
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- In part 3 of our 4 part series on how to properly mount your rifles scope, former Army Ranger sniper team leader and author of the Long-Range Shooting Handbook, Ryan Cleckner, discusses the process he uses to mount a scope to a rifle. If you're looking for scope mounting components that fit your rifle check out Gun Universities free scope ring finder tool here: gununiversity.com/scope-ring-...
Check out Ryan's book Long Range Shooting Handbook: A Beginners Guide to Precision Rifle Shooting at ryancleckner.com/long-range-s...
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I've been watching your videos from 11 years ago. It's all great stuff, and you aged well. Keep up the good work.
Hey Ryan, I've noticed the palm shelf on that rifle in a couple videos now: I know a lot of shooters don't like them because they say it encourages them to impart too much control on the rifle. I know you've always said that the less contact a shooter has with the rifle the more accurate it will be, so I went back to your book and reexamine how you describe the way you hold your rifle, where you say "The shooter’s firing hand is then pulled out from under the stock and will rest upon the grip of the stock. I do not like to “grip” the rifle with my firing hand and instead merely lay the weight of my hand on the stock without wrapping my thumb around the stock. This is where a stock with a “palm-swell” is beneficial."
Great stuff. Still learning!
Just bought the Arisaka Defense Scope leveler from Amazon. Thank you, this video was a game changer
Great video. Really enjoying this series. I especially like how you level your scope. Do you have any recommendations or tips on leveling a scope on a bolt action without a solid base, like a Remington 700 with a 2 piece base?
Thanks
Thank you Ryan! And thank you for your Service! I first watched you teach this on WPN. I mounted all my scopes per your instructions and I'm enjoying great results. Attention to detail goes a long way to achieving success.
The tool for leveling is awesome. Just ordered mine. Going to recheck all my scopes
Thanks Ryan. I've thrown all my bubble levels and plumb lines away and use the levelling wedges now. Much simpler and quicker.
hi..where can i get those levelling wedges?
ask your scope maker if they guarantee the reticle is level with flat surfaces on the scope. i asked vortex and they said no.
Got my wedge on Amazon a week ago.
Don't toss your bubbles. The wedges won't fit on all mounts/scopes. I found this out after buying a wedge set for a new rifle/scope set up! (but didn't toss my bubble levels thankfully!).
This was great thank you so much.
Another great video, thanks 😊
This was excellent👍🏼
Ryan, always enjoy your content. Can we get a vid on cleaning glass? From a light dust to dropped in the mud.
Thank you for sharing
Outstanding instructional video…especially on the correct use of the leveling wedges. This is how I have been leveling my optics for a long time now…
I wish you could edify a certain UA-camr by the name of Paramount Tactical.
The wedges are nice, SPUHR builds that into the mounts but your stack tolerances in this situation. Yes it’s more time consuming but securely leveling the rifle then using a plumb line is the best way.
@11:09 note - i thought about doing this, and i asked vortex if they guarantee the scope reticle is guaranteed to be level with the flat surfaces on the scope. they said no.
Exactly. A Plumb Bob is your best bet. Also, if you level your scope to your rifle and then pull the rifle into your shoulder pocket, is your shoulder pocket straight up and down? Mine isn't!
My method is hold the gun comfortably (repeatability), level the scope to the Plumb Bob, and then level the bubble level to the scope. Sitting, kneeling, or standing, the scope naturally levels, weak- side or prone I go to the bubble level.
Cheers
That's true. But if your reticle is canted in the scope and you level the reticle, now the erector isn't going to pull the reticle straight up and down when make adjustments.
@@eddieb9110 If your reticle is canted inside the scope mechanics, you are correct, BUT if you read his comment, that's not what he's talking about: the mechanics inside the scope can be square while having the flat on the bottom of the scope body out of square: the external flat that shooters use to index their scope IS NOT what manufacturers index the internals off of during manufacturing. This is why vortex uses a plumbline to level the reticle and then tracks it up and down the plum line to verify tracking: a scope is an optical measurement instrument, not a mechanical measurement instrument.
A similar problem presents when reloaders "uniform" primer pockets: most primer pocket tools index off the neck of the cartridge where manufacturers index off the base of the cartridge. Obviously, indexing off the base of the cartridge is more accurate, but also much more difficult to achieve (ie more expensive).
@@wilfdarr Not sure about that... I would say the manufacturing process probably leaves the turrets square to the scope body. The problem is that the reticle is installed by hand. The scope body is machined.
@@eddieb9110 "Probably" and "should", but as noted in the OP, "not guaranteed".
I’ve found that a Bic lighter works perfectly for use as the leveling tool
Hey! You need to add Part 3 to the title. I had to search for this video. You have video 1,2,?, 4. Thanks!
If you’re an obsessive you can use layers of plumber’s thread tape to fill in the gap between the picatinny rail and the cross bar.
That leveler looks pretty slick. I've been fighting with bubble levels for a while.
Use a Plumb Bob as a reference for your vertical reticle: hold it next to, not directly over, the Plumb Bob line, and your eyes will pick up if they are parallel or not. Remember, the bottom of the scope and the top of the rail are not necessarily level themselves (in truth, the reticle can also be installed catawampus from factory and the only way to know one way or the otheris to perform a tall target test):
gravity is always straight up and down 🗼🍕😁
@@wilfdarrhe explains why a plumb string isn’t really doing anything. What if you’re not holding the rifle plumb underneath the scope?
@@slpeteyAZ You don't have to. In fact, That's exactly what this method accounts for: it assumes you are a human and not a robot, and therefore don't actually hold the rifle level. This method ensures the scope will be level when you hold the rifle naturally, which is important for accuracy.
There are 3 "problems" with this method you need to be aware of:
1a) if you shoot with your weak side, or
1b) put the rifle on a level surface; the scope likely will no longer be level: it is only level when the rifle is canted at the same angle to which you leveled the scope.
2) there will be an offset that you need to be aware of, though it's not a problem easily accounted for: say the offset is 1/8inch, and you zero at 100, then the bullet will be 1/8 offset at 200, 1/4in at 300, 3/8 at 400, etc. Equally you could keep the 1/8 offset at 100, and you would have a 1/8 offset parallel to your POA/LOS.
But holding the rifle plumb isn't a factor with this method.
I would rather take the advice of a professional sniper than a key board warrior.
1000 thanks! You’re the best scope teacher, period. Change nothing. 🫡
Hi, when you talk about mounting the base... how much torq on the base to rifle?
Can you show mounting to a dovetail as you can't use a triangle mounting checker, thanks.
2A💪
👍👍👍
Where cab I go to get the silver scope leveling tools mentioned in this video?
Is it normal my scope is loosing setting and my rifle is shooting too much left or right when i rotate the objective lens to change shooting distance?
What is the tool called that goes between the scope and the receiver? I need one.
Where can I buy the piece for level my scope ?? Thanks !
Where can we find those leveling wedges
Just a suggestion of something I do with my rings: Instead of pushing both rings forward, I push my rings away from each other or towards each other depending on how much real estate I have to work with. This unifies the scope, base and rings a little bit better.
Not all rifles have picatinny rails or flat surfaces. My Browning XBolt for example. Sure I could add them but I am not a fan of the look on a precision rifle, to me aesthetically they're made for AR-type rifles.
Thank you.where ca someone find that tool to leveled the scope. Thanks
I was wondering the same thing
Arisaka
You also have scope ring caps with three screws, so what torque do u use then?
Normally, the scope ring manufacturer will include the torque in the installation instructions.
Ryan, is there a need to put loctite on the underside of the scope mount?
Hi. I'm a retired pipefitter by trade. You only put the loctite on the male threads.
Just follow the example that Ryan showed you and everything will work out great.
You don´t have to use a picatinny rail.....if you have the holes in the receiver you can use a one piece mount and have a better marriage between the scope and the rifle... old school!!!
Where can you purchase that metal scope level? Is that what its called?
Arisaka
When i tighten my rings you hear a click when you start getting them tight i go till i hear a 3rd click
wait a freaking minute, is that ryan cleckner from the 12 years old videos? i didn't even know its him
Why do some people "Lap" their scopes while others don't?
That is for the older style rings that mount directly to the receiver rather than a rail. I think it is or was necessitated by uncertainty of tolerances that the receiver tap holes were made to and less precise manufacturing of the rings. It ensured that the rings were perfectly lined up. Now, with a quality made rail and rings, they line up correctly without lapping. It’s one of the reasons your rail and rings should be good quality. They don’t have to be the most expensive but shouldn’t be cheap.
9:15 There is no reason your scope has to be on top of the barrel: many early sniper rifles intentionally mounted the scope off to the side: today in ELR, rifles are often fired with a Delta Tarac which off- sets the sight lines about an inch to the left of the barrel, ON PURPOSE. As long as the scope is level it will adjust accurately, irregardless of the orientation of the rifle underneath it!
One concession: if you are even slightly OCD (are you one of those people who has to turn the volume on the TV up using even numbers only?) and it's going to bother you that the rifle isn't perfectly level under the scope, then yes, level the scope to the gun. For me, I prefer the gun sits comfortably (and repeatability) in my shoulder pocket, irregardless of the rifle level.
Offset scope would mean you need dope for elevation AND windage for various ranges. Ain't nobody got time for that.
@@eddieb9110 1) For a deer gun, its not an issue: let's say you're holding your rifle so that the scope is laterally shifted 1/8in, you zero at 100 yards, then at 3 hundred yards you're 1/2in out the other side. Most people don't shoot deer beyond 300 yards and a deer isn't going to notice a half inch! Plus you know it's laterally shifted so you can just pull it back a half inch if you're shooting at around 300 yards, one inch at 500. That doesn't take any time at all, so the "got no time for that" argument doesn't hold up. And anything beyond that you're going to have to dope wind anyways, you're already going to your dope sheet, so you've lost no time.
2)ELR shooters already use a Delta Tarac to INTENTIONALLY shift the image laterally to get the barrel out of the way: yes you have to dope for it, but
a) it's linier, so 2.1 at at the gun, if you zero at 100 yards, then (range in hundreds - 1) x 2.1 = Lateral shift (5(00yds) -1) x 2.1 = 4 x 2.1 = 8.4: most competitors can do that in their head.
b) you don't have to do it in your head because you've already included it in your dope sheet, so you find the range, look it up on the sheet, and shoot the numbers.
It's not the problem people are making it out to be. Everything is a compromise: I'd rather hold the rifle comfortably canted KNOWING I'm holding the scope level and in a repeatable position than the other way around. Would I use this method for a prone or barricade competition gun, absolutely not, but for a hunting gun that I'm going to be carrying and quickly shouldering, yes.
Horses for courses.
@@eddieb9110 ua-cam.com/video/OORPayHawdk/v-deo.html
@@bkbruin77 LMAO. 20moa? You really think that's something? 🤣😂🤣😂
"We used a Charlie and Delta TARAC in addition to a *350 moa base* on the 40 moa action."
RE: 1092moa for a 4 mile shot: Delta Tarac gives a horizontal offset of 2.1inch.
Two ears, one mouth. Next time listen twice as much as you talk.
I had to pause and look.. sure enough,, the bottom of my scope is flat
Ummm... hesitant to say but, working on a rifle with the bolt in place and closed?