Novice mechanic here having successfully completed this job on my connect 2k miles ago. My van snapped its wet belt about 7 years ago at 50k miles according to the previous owner, but they didn't convert to a chain after rebuilding the head. 60k miles later, having spent a month converting it to a wee camper, I decided that leaving it wasn't worth the risk! Thanks to this video and the video from badgertronix i was saved a fair chunk of cash, have a van that (probably) won't explode, and I got a good bit of experience at the same time. My belt was cracked to high heaven too, so taking the plunge was the right decision. Some things to note from my experience: My camshaft pully was stuck on tight, no amount of tapping would free it. I was able to pop it off easily with a homemade puller using 3 m10 bolts and some thick steel for the body with 3 holes drilled. You'll need some nuts too. I'll let you work out the rest (part of the fun eh). So just be prepared for this. Ford make a dedicated tool but i couldn't find one anywhere really. My new crankshaft seal was leaking quite badly when i installed it, so i replaced with the old one and it was completely fine, still going strong. The seal was from FAI in the lymm engine kits. I saw another guy had this issue so it may be common. So just try this before you go diving back in there thinking the alignment is off. Cheers Alan.
this vid. was my first date with you.... i put a spanner on the crank, another on the cam, turned engine clockwise, stopped, then turned it anticlock, no lag between top + bottom spanners, therefore fkin belt fitted. needed dmf as well, so pulled lump out. checked shells, big ends gone [99k] , oilpump partially clogged with belt dust. all the belts, shells, wpump, aux tensioner, dmf + clutch + all seals/gaskets , £850. survived 4yrs now, but use 5/40 oil every 3k cos mains rumbling. you were a very expensive video to watch, but well worth it. keep up the good work + give monny one for me
honesty one of the most useful videos iv ever ever watched been in the trade 11 years and trying to get info on this exact job is near impossible even with contacts in ford thanks alan
What a hero, I didn't realise how much this is for the professionals. Definitely not for the faint hardy DIY with no indoor facilities - I just bought a second-hand Connect at 108K as mine said its prayers on the M6 at 160K. I think I will visit my professional mechanic and let him have the responsibility 😱 Fascinating video that just helps demonstrate why we should use properly skilled people. Thank you
Cheers for that, I had one come in today and was unsure about the pump timing, mines on the focus so I’m finding it hard to find the crank blanking plate, I know it’s behind the alternator drive but it alludes me, thank you kind sir for clearing up a few things before I tackle it head on in the morning, much appreciation and love
Still a great video Alan. Now coming up on 300,000 miles, this was my second time doing this job with the engine in the vehicle (Ford dealer did it at 100,000 miles). A couple of things I found: (1) You won't get the water pump off without taking the auxilliary drive belt tensioner off first (1 x 10mm screw and 1 x 13mm screw into block). There physically isn't the room to lift it upwards between the engine and the wheel-arch/side of the engine bay - it has to be passed rearwards and the tensioner pulley will be in the way. (2) Getting that engine mounting bracket off is a nightmare due to the length of the bolts holding it on. You need to take the water pump pulley off first to make extra room to wiggle the mounting bracket around (likewise when re-fitting after wet belt is fitted - make sure the mounting bracket is fitted before re-fitting the water pump pulley) - also jacking the engine up a bit creates a bit more clearance. (3) Its important to re-fit the wiring harness to the injectors and various sensors on top of the rocker cover (disconnected to remove the rocker cover) the same way it was originally. When I did this the previous time, I routed the wiring over the fuel pipes instead of under them and it must have strained some wiring resulting in the car going into limp mode until such time as the wiring harness was put under the fuel pipes.
good to now engines good for 300000 , got one in mk2 focus great car issue is clutcj gone at 90000 , seems to be release bearing but im think dual mass as well ... I get it replaced and should be good for ages ...Not had car form new previous owner ruined the clutch mines has the metal chain
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this strip down. Pulling the tensioner revealed a domed tensioner plunger (phew!!!) but all the same it helped a TON changing bruvs water pump and top cambelt in his Focus Mk.2. Getting the lower engine mount out with the engine in the car was a shit bag of a funt of a castard of a futha mucker of a nightmare but otherwise this job is quite do able on the drive for unauthorised meddlers such as I am. Keep up the good work, I owe you a six pack of your preferred beverage!
Bang on I was sure if the crankshaft locking pin fitted inside a hole in the crankshaft, good to know it does rotate anticlockwise when the locking pin is in place, My connect starts runs perfect, but once it starts getting warm it's blowing out blue grey smoke so I'm gonna take off the head to see what's the problem. Great video thanks 👍
Followed your instructions and it’s spot on , short of having a faulty crank seal the van starts & runs and I’ve now improved its longevity- can’t thank you enough for taking the time to make this video 👍👍
You've done my mate a real favour.lol. I've decided to leave his connect alone. I used to be a fitter in early 90s these 1800s have really changed. N FFS they needed it!!!!!
Absolutely brilliantly explained and carried out by a man who knows what he's doing, what manufacturer in their right mind would design an engine like this to put a wet belt inside an engine and then another belt on the outside making it double trouble, if either of those belts fail then that engine is toast but I suppose it's a good way of selling engines for Ford. I believe they are doing the new 2ltr diesel the same way, I for one will Never buy a Ford with this stupid engine fitted because as usual with Ford as long as it lasts till the end of the warranty period their fine with that and then it's you parting with the cash, nice one Ford.
Brilliant video Alan I know it's an old video but it's still important to know because these are a terrible idea and ford are being sued in America because of accidents caused by the belts perishing I really enjoy watching your videos they are great for the home mechanic 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Really, REALLY appreciate this video. Quick question: is it necessary to use a new crankshaft pulley bolt? I've read that it's essential but you didn't mention it. In fact there are many instances where replacement of high-torque bolts is prescribed in the Haynes manual (citing it as a Ford policy) but as an amateur it's hard to know what's important - any guidance would be great. Another amateur newbie one: what kind of sealant is recommended for the back of the fuel pump sprocket? These things get understandably glossed over as assumed knowledge - I suppose any engine sealant that is heat, vibration and oil resistant. I'm a DIY mechanic and will be doing this soon, with the engine in the van . Fingers crossed I figure out how to get out the lower engine mounting bolts, which are flagged as having not enough clearance in the comments - any tips on that appreciated. I already removed the belt tensioning bolt (with a bit of swearing) to check it prior to ordering the chain conversion kit.
There's no prospect of me ever owning any vehicles with this engine, but I watched the video anyway just to see what the hell a wet belt set up would look like. I don't like the look of it! But I liked the video a lot shows how the job is done in the real world. Probably would have been worth doing the video on a real customer job or having at least the new kit of parts, but you definitely demonstrated how to get the job done. It kept my interest through out even after I'd seen the wet belt, I got sucked in and had to see the rest of the demo! Only observation, when refitting the crank pulley carefully over the seal, I reckon a smear of engine oil on the sealing surface on the pulley and / or the seal would be a help to assist sealing and minimise risk of teh seal getting caught and nicked. But as you said you've done hundreds of these so evidently fitting it dry but with great care works just fine! Top vid. Kudos to you for being a real skilled mechanic
thank you, i had to borrow that dud engine to make the video as i never had a camera when i was regulary changing those belts, so it was a case of now or never..thanks again for your comment, much appreciated
Bought a 58 mondeo with 125k miles. Took it to my local garage for timing belt and oil change and the lad said please do the wet belt too. Ford recommends timing and wet belt to be changed at 125 k or 10 years. Glad i accepted for him to change it as it was all cracked. Probably would have failed in the next 2k miles totalling the engine
About time, can't believe it , I am convinced that when anyone attempts to upload a vital video relating to ford engines, I'm sure the people at ford have it forcefully removed, Brilliant video. Now can you do the dmf on a ford kuga awd 2010 2.0 tdci please.
Très bonne vidéo. Mais attention,en montant le joint de la pompe à gazole comme ça et la poulie sans pâte à joint, il y a 99% de chance d'avoir une fuite d'huile ! Very good video. But be careful, by mounting the fuel pump gasket like this and the pulley without a compound seal, there is a 99% chance of having an oil leak! Thanks to you (google translation)
It is possible but a little awkward, i've done quiet a few, if your belt has gone the pistons WILL need to be replaced as they crack at the swirl cup edges. A trick if you need to change the pistons is to carefully break the thin aluminium webbing away from the lower half of the crankcase rather than seperating the two halves to allow access to the connecting rod bolts because they are a nightmare to seal if you split the halves. It takes extra work to get the top belt timing marks lined back up but it is not essential because the top cam sprocket is not keyed and the pump does not require timing. Although it isn't essential it just makes the next guys job easier when doing the next upper belt change if you time the pump and cam sprockets properly on assembly.
Hi. This video is very helpful. Thanks for uploading it. My question is that on my car the cam shaft snaped which has bent the valve luckily it didn't damaged the pistons. So I have bought the new head with complete valves, Hydraulic lifters and camshaft. So the timing is all out at the moment. I have bought the complete timing tool kit. I have used the timing bar to lock the camshaft from the right hand side. How do I lock the the fuel pump pulley and how do I use the locking pin to lock the crank pulley. In this video the belt is being changed in a normal circumstances n mine is completely different case. Please someone help. Thanks.
First time I did one I had no idea it had a wet belt. Did the top belt made up how easy it was. Three month later came back with a wrecked head. Wet belt had gone. Lesson learned. Ring Ford with the chassis number and find out.
Would it be further wise to take off the oil pan and check the pickup screen? Nothing like doing all this and have the engine starving for oil and kill itself.
Предыдущее поколение этих движков было более проще в плане замены комплекта грм и сальника коленвала. За видео ставлю 5 такое в училища надо показывать (на Русском) Super👍
Hi, is there any problem if i take of the belt tensioner to see if is chain or belt? Can i put it back if is chain and start the car after check or what i should do?
hello there, this video helped me alot when doing my timing belt a couple years back (thanks for that), but i am now having to change out the crank pulley, is it enough to lock the ringgear and screw it off and replace, or will this get it out of timing? cheers from norway
@17:01 - how easy is it to remove the back timing case? Had some of the water pump bolts snap in there solid and would rather get the rear casing off and in the shed to drill and tap.
Excellent video can you please tell me if I can just remove the tensioner from the bottom belt without affecting the timing? I want to check if my engine is belt or chain thanks
I'm on 155000 miles... how long will these engines go on for once i replace the wetbelt?. It's had regular services. Just not sure wether to buy a re con or do the chain conversion. Thank you.
Hello, your video is excellent. At the level of the pinion on the crankshaft, when you speak of the pin which must go in the round hole and not in the one which is oblong, what happens if I go up the pinion with the pin in the oblong hole?
This is a good video, with only one failing. The third (3rd) engine lock off tool, is missing. This goes on to the flywheel where the starter motor goes. This then stops anyone then "as you said" bending the crank shaft aliening tool to what is NOT a locking pin. It is just an aliening tool. You need the flywheel locked to prevent this happening. So, there is no need for as you did to use a pair of mole grips to re aliening the crankshaft, As, it wouldn't have moved. Other than this. Great video thanks for making it.
Brilliant video.. thanks.. is it possible to change a vauxhall wet belt on the peugot designed engine to a chain? I believe there have been probs with GM wet belt of belt degradation.. thanks
Hello alan I am using ford mondeo 2016, The powertrain signal turns on and engine cut off hard acceleration while driving. I have did all the service also. Its very dangerous for driving especially in motorways. Do u have any idea about this issue?
In our work fleet ,we had 6 out of 6 transit connects with failed wet belts. All of them failed between 25k and 90k kilometers, and one of them even failed twice. Some of these vehicles did however have a fair deal of idle hours, but still all of them was covered under ford 100k km driveline warranty. Must be said that climate here is fairly harsh and temperatured could go as low as -25C in the winter.
That video was really helpful 👍i need to replace the head gasket on my son 230l ford transit connect 2005- do you have a video to help with this, I was looking for timing marks before removing the head and now see what to do thanks to your wet belt video.👍steve spain
Hi I’ve got a connect with the same engine. Having difficulty starting over the last few days. Machine says Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of self test. Asked around searched the interweb (where I found your great video) can’t find the location of this sensor 🤦🏻♂️ Would you have the answer 🙏🏻🙏🏻
hello alan, how long is the timing pin, I bought the timing lock kit and there are 3 in the kit and I don't know which of them are for a ford mondeo 1.8 tdci 125 hp, I'm interested in the size of the pin that enters the engine block, thank you
hi,is there a way to align it with the dry belt off?The guys that worked on my car didn t have these tools and everything is dismantled.I want to buy the tools and do it.
Hi mate your post is excellent thanks. Just got a query about the notch on the cam pully and the dot on the fuel pump pulley can these be set at a set number of groves on the belt apart
Novice mechanic here having successfully completed this job on my connect 2k miles ago. My van snapped its wet belt about 7 years ago at 50k miles according to the previous owner, but they didn't convert to a chain after rebuilding the head. 60k miles later, having spent a month converting it to a wee camper, I decided that leaving it wasn't worth the risk! Thanks to this video and the video from badgertronix i was saved a fair chunk of cash, have a van that (probably) won't explode, and I got a good bit of experience at the same time. My belt was cracked to high heaven too, so taking the plunge was the right decision.
Some things to note from my experience:
My camshaft pully was stuck on tight, no amount of tapping would free it. I was able to pop it off easily with a homemade puller using 3 m10 bolts and some thick steel for the body with 3 holes drilled. You'll need some nuts too. I'll let you work out the rest (part of the fun eh). So just be prepared for this. Ford make a dedicated tool but i couldn't find one anywhere really.
My new crankshaft seal was leaking quite badly when i installed it, so i replaced with the old one and it was completely fine, still going strong. The seal was from FAI in the lymm engine kits. I saw another guy had this issue so it may be common. So just try this before you go diving back in there thinking the alignment is off.
Cheers Alan.
thanks for your comment chlorotica, hats off to you for getting what is a daunting job done
Amazing video. Thank you. Just done a transit connect wet belt for the first time and with your video it was a breeze. Keep up the great work.
excellant, cheers Damien
this vid. was my first date with you.... i put a spanner on the crank, another on the cam, turned engine clockwise, stopped, then turned it anticlock, no lag between top + bottom spanners, therefore fkin belt fitted. needed dmf as well, so pulled lump out. checked shells, big ends gone [99k] , oilpump partially clogged with belt dust. all the belts, shells, wpump, aux tensioner, dmf + clutch + all seals/gaskets , £850. survived 4yrs now, but use 5/40 oil every 3k cos mains rumbling. you were a very expensive video to watch, but well worth it. keep up the good work + give monny one for me
Great video, just replaced my timing belt of my Mondeo. This video is more easy than the workshop manual. I put 6 hours work in mine.
Glad it helped, cheers rutger
honesty one of the most useful videos iv ever ever watched been in the trade 11 years and trying to get info on this exact job is near impossible even with contacts in ford thanks alan
What a hero, I didn't realise how much this is for the professionals. Definitely not for the faint hardy DIY with no indoor facilities - I just bought a second-hand Connect at 108K as mine said its prayers on the M6 at 160K. I think I will visit my professional mechanic and let him have the responsibility 😱
Fascinating video that just helps demonstrate why we should use properly skilled people. Thank you
Spot on with the crucial explanations, and important notices. You nailed it with this video! Great job!
Have to do this for a client because he’s high pressure pump broke down. Helped me a lot man thanks
Cheers for that, I had one come in today and was unsure about the pump timing, mines on the focus so I’m finding it hard to find the crank blanking plate, I know it’s behind the alternator drive but it alludes me, thank you kind sir for clearing up a few things before I tackle it head on in the morning, much appreciation and love
Proper job Been a mechanic for many years helped me out quite a lot thank you
Still a great video Alan. Now coming up on 300,000 miles, this was my second time doing this job with the engine in the vehicle (Ford dealer did it at 100,000 miles). A couple of things I found:
(1) You won't get the water pump off without taking the auxilliary drive belt tensioner off first (1 x 10mm screw and 1 x 13mm screw into block). There physically isn't the room to lift it upwards between the engine and the wheel-arch/side of the engine bay - it has to be passed rearwards and the tensioner pulley will be in the way.
(2) Getting that engine mounting bracket off is a nightmare due to the length of the bolts holding it on. You need to take the water pump pulley off first to make extra room to wiggle the mounting bracket around (likewise when re-fitting after wet belt is fitted - make sure the mounting bracket is fitted before re-fitting the water pump pulley) - also jacking the engine up a bit creates a bit more clearance.
(3) Its important to re-fit the wiring harness to the injectors and various sensors on top of the rocker cover (disconnected to remove the rocker cover) the same way it was originally. When I did this the previous time, I routed the wiring over the fuel pipes instead of under them and it must have strained some wiring resulting in the car going into limp mode until such time as the wiring harness was put under the fuel pipes.
thanks for your explanation, very interesting
good to now engines good for 300000 , got one in mk2 focus great car issue is clutcj gone at 90000 , seems to be release bearing but im think dual mass as well ... I get it replaced and should be good for ages ...Not had car form new previous owner ruined the clutch mines has the metal chain
definitely one of the best videos I’ve watched on car maintenance. very well photographed and put together.
Absolutely spot on this is just what I needed but I can’t help thinking it’ll take twice as long with the engine in place 🤦♂️
Probably the best guide I have seen for a long time now. That’s for sharing. Thumbs up
Yes bang on 👍
Excellent video Alan. And clarifies the engine timing perfectly.
Probably the best demo vid I've ever seen. Possibly the most stupid engine design I've ever seen.
for ford its a great idea::its so the car has to return to the stealership to be repaired!!!
@@rearspeaker6364 And with there kind of politics by Trump good exposed,it was my last Ford.
@@Boca-do-rio Psa uses a wet belt on some of their engines also not much more to choose from then.
@@rimmersbryggeri Hi, how would one know which psa engines that would be? both 1.6 and 2.0? Which models/years? Thanks!
@@zernestro I don't know but I could find out. They are inte the 3008 anyway. seems to be a whole range of displacements petrol engines. Puretech
What a Brilliant and helpful video... Cheers bro, you're a champion
Great video and very informative! Just done my C Max, thanks. Takes a bit longer with the engine in the car though :-)
Just changed a wet belt on a connnect by following this video - very helpful alan! Thanks! 👍🏼
cheers TTA, glad it helped
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this strip down. Pulling the tensioner revealed a domed tensioner plunger (phew!!!) but all the same it helped a TON changing bruvs water pump and top cambelt in his Focus Mk.2. Getting the lower engine mount out with the engine in the car was a shit bag of a funt of a castard of a futha mucker of a nightmare but otherwise this job is quite do able on the drive for unauthorised meddlers such as I am. Keep up the good work, I owe you a six pack of your preferred beverage!
cheers
A first class job you have done of explaining how the job is done. Well done.Thankyou.
Bang on I was sure if the crankshaft locking pin fitted inside a hole in the crankshaft, good to know it does rotate anticlockwise when the locking pin is in place, My connect starts runs perfect, but once it starts getting warm it's blowing out blue grey smoke so I'm gonna take off the head to see what's the problem. Great video thanks 👍
Followed your instructions and it’s spot on , short of having a faulty crank seal the van starts & runs and I’ve now improved its longevity- can’t thank you enough for taking the time to make this video 👍👍
You've done my mate a real favour.lol. I've decided to leave his connect alone. I used to be a fitter in early 90s these 1800s have really changed. N FFS they needed it!!!!!
Absolutely brilliantly explained and carried out by a man who knows what he's doing, what manufacturer in their right mind would design an engine like this to put a wet belt inside an engine and then another belt on the outside making it double trouble, if either of those belts fail then that engine is toast but I suppose it's a good way of selling engines for Ford. I believe they are doing the new 2ltr diesel the same way, I for one will Never buy a Ford with this stupid engine fitted because as usual with Ford as long as it lasts till the end of the warranty period their fine with that and then it's you parting with the cash, nice one Ford.
Brilliant video helped me loads today i replaced the chain as didn't know if it had been done also replacement top belt👌
good work and well done
Excellent & clear video even a french man who have some difficulties with the pure english accent!!!
GREAT VIDEO and Thanks for taking your time to make it and share it with others!!!
Thanks to your video I changed the belts on my car myself. Thanks a lot for the help...
excellant, not an easy job so very well done😊
Brilliant video Alan I know it's an old video but it's still important to know because these are a terrible idea and ford are being sued in America because of accidents caused by the belts perishing I really enjoy watching your videos they are great for the home mechanic 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Nice Instructions Alan. Just about to do one of these for my stepson. You answered every question I had in my head.
You've really been a great help, and I appreciate it no end.
Best demo video I have ever seen. Great detail
Really, REALLY appreciate this video.
Quick question: is it necessary to use a new crankshaft pulley bolt? I've read that it's essential but you didn't mention it. In fact there are many instances where replacement of high-torque bolts is prescribed in the Haynes manual (citing it as a Ford policy) but as an amateur it's hard to know what's important - any guidance would be great.
Another amateur newbie one: what kind of sealant is recommended for the back of the fuel pump sprocket? These things get understandably glossed over as assumed knowledge - I suppose any engine sealant that is heat, vibration and oil resistant.
I'm a DIY mechanic and will be doing this soon, with the engine in the van . Fingers crossed I figure out how to get out the lower engine mounting bolts, which are flagged as having not enough clearance in the comments - any tips on that appreciated. I already removed the belt tensioning bolt (with a bit of swearing) to check it prior to ordering the chain conversion kit.
hi, yes its fine to use the old crank bolt, uesd to just gun them back tight with no issues and any good gasket sealant wlll do
@alan4x thanks, and again; a very well explained and concise video.
Good video shots, well explained, pro instruction and useful tips.
Thank you very much
Doing this at the moment, trawling your videos as homework!
Trying to do it with the enigne still in place.
There's no prospect of me ever owning any vehicles with this engine, but I watched the video anyway just to see what the hell a wet belt set up would look like. I don't like the look of it! But I liked the video a lot shows how the job is done in the real world. Probably would have been worth doing the video on a real customer job or having at least the new kit of parts, but you definitely demonstrated how to get the job done. It kept my interest through out even after I'd seen the wet belt, I got sucked in and had to see the rest of the demo! Only observation, when refitting the crank pulley carefully over the seal, I reckon a smear of engine oil on the sealing surface on the pulley and / or the seal would be a help to assist sealing and minimise risk of teh seal getting caught and nicked. But as you said you've done hundreds of these so evidently fitting it dry but with great care works just fine! Top vid. Kudos to you for being a real skilled mechanic
thank you, i had to borrow that dud engine to make the video as i never had a camera when i was regulary changing those belts, so it was a case of now or never..thanks again for your comment, much appreciated
@@alan4x hi Alan ive got 12 plate connect the wet belt snap whats best to do fix it and any place werr I can take it
Great job Alan well done mate, from Queensland Australia
Bought a 58 mondeo with 125k miles. Took it to my local garage for timing belt and oil change and the lad said please do the wet belt too. Ford recommends timing and wet belt to be changed at 125 k or 10 years. Glad i accepted for him to change it as it was all cracked. Probably would have failed in the next 2k miles totalling the engine
About time, can't believe it , I am convinced that when anyone attempts to upload a vital video relating to ford engines, I'm sure the people at ford have it forcefully removed, Brilliant video. Now can you do the dmf on a ford kuga awd 2010 2.0 tdci please.
محمد كولاني
Top drawer video.Best I have seen for this job.
cheers lain
Très bonne vidéo. Mais attention,en montant le joint de la pompe à gazole comme ça et la poulie sans pâte à joint, il y a 99% de chance d'avoir une fuite d'huile !
Very good video. But be careful, by mounting the fuel pump gasket like this and the pulley without a compound seal, there is a 99% chance of having an oil leak! Thanks to you (google translation)
Alan thanks for the video slow and precise instructions fantastic 😁keep them coming thank you
Great Job Alan. Thank you for the instructions... truly professional. thank you
thanks, glad it helped
a bit more tricky doing it in position. was much easier taking the whole engine out. But we managed. Thanks to you...
fantastic. I think this answers every question I had about doing this job. Cheers!
a great clear demo,,,its a great vid. Thank you for recording
a great video alan, ive never done one yet so this is a very clear indication of correct procedure...many thanks .cheers..
Omg, this is all pretty hard and precise work. Now imagine doing it all without taking the engine out of the car! Must be hell.
i did one today on a galaxy long job lol
It is possible but a little awkward, i've done quiet a few, if your belt has gone the pistons WILL need to be replaced as they crack at the swirl cup edges.
A trick if you need to change the pistons is to carefully break the thin aluminium webbing away from the lower half of the crankcase rather than seperating the two halves to allow access to the connecting rod bolts because they are a nightmare to seal if you split the halves.
It takes extra work to get the top belt timing marks lined back up but it is not essential because the top cam sprocket is not keyed and the pump does not require timing.
Although it isn't essential it just makes the next guys job easier when doing the next upper belt change if you time the pump and cam sprockets properly on assembly.
You haven't done the THREE timing chains on a GM 3.6 litre HF direct injection V6.... this is less than 1/6 as bad.
Well done Alan, been putting off my mates connect ,been a great help.
Awesome video!!!!! Please keep making videos it help us a lot!!!! Thanks
Spot on Alan. Top class mechanic.
Very impressive video quality.
the best video on how to change the timing belt of a Ford transit connect, congratulations from Spain
Excellent video, would not have done it without the information in your video, thank you
your welcome, glad be be of help
Hi. This video is very helpful. Thanks for uploading it. My question is that on my car the cam shaft snaped which has bent the valve luckily it didn't damaged the pistons. So I have bought the new head with complete valves, Hydraulic lifters and camshaft. So the timing is all out at the moment. I have bought the complete timing tool kit. I have used the timing bar to lock the camshaft from the right hand side. How do I lock the the fuel pump pulley and how do I use the locking pin to lock the crank pulley. In this video the belt is being changed in a normal circumstances n mine is completely different case. Please someone help. Thanks.
Thank you very much for this excellent explanation. It'll help me a lot.
First time I did one I had no idea it had a wet belt. Did the top belt made up how easy it was. Three month later came back with a wrecked head. Wet belt had gone. Lesson learned. Ring Ford with the chassis number and find out.
Would it be further wise to take off the oil pan and check the pickup screen? Nothing like doing all this and have the engine starving for oil and kill itself.
Предыдущее поколение этих движков было более проще в плане замены комплекта грм и сальника коленвала. За видео ставлю 5 такое в училища надо показывать (на Русском) Super👍
Да еслиб на русском
Best most help full vid i have seen in a long time and well presented
Hi, is there any problem if i take of the belt tensioner to see if is chain or belt? Can i put it back if is chain and start the car after check or what i should do?
yes you can unbolt the tensioner and remove it..the timing will stay as it is...once you've looked at it then just screw it back in and thats it
@@alan4x thank you very much bro
"Nice an' tight" is a Standard British Torque spec. 😆 Srsly tho, great video mate, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us!
Replacing the hp pump on my focus mk2 this vid has made it possible to do the job , many that's Bro
hello there, this video helped me alot when doing my timing belt a couple years back (thanks for that), but i am now having to change out the crank pulley, is it enough to lock the ringgear and screw it off and replace, or will this get it out of timing? cheers from norway
you can just remove the crank bolt and pulley and it will not affect the wet belt timing, just fit a new pulley and bolt it back
@@alan4x thank you soo much :)
Did this. You were a great help. 👍
Glad it helped, cheers
Very nice video, every how many km must be changed the wet belt? If is chain doesn't need to be changed?
Thanks
hi, wet belt is 200,000 km,,,, chain no need to ever replace
Thank you so much, it’s a great video, ill do it in my focus 2009
Can you tell me what exact kind of sealant are you using at around 26:00?
Thanks man this helped me a lot greetings from finland mate
@17:01 - how easy is it to remove the back timing case? Had some of the water pump bolts snap in there solid and would rather get the rear casing off and in the shed to drill and tap.
Excellent video can you please tell me if I can just remove the tensioner from the bottom belt without affecting the timing? I want to check if my engine is belt or chain thanks
I would also like to know the answer to this question please?
this helped my dad so much his car is reaching 108 000
Kiitos tämä kertoi ja auttaa tosi paljon.
All grate . But can this be done with engine in car ?
I'm on 155000 miles... how long will these engines go on for once i replace the wetbelt?. It's had regular services. Just not sure wether to buy a re con or do the chain conversion. Thank you.
these engines are pretty much bullet proof and should even outlive you😁
@alan4x brilliant thank you for the quick reply. I wonder if I could get it to 300,000 with a chain kit...
Hello, your video is excellent.
At the level of the pinion on the crankshaft, when you speak of the pin which must go in the round hole and not in the one which is oblong, what happens if I go up the pinion with the pin in the oblong hole?
Hallo, Super Erklärung.
Hast mich viel geholfen, danke dir 👍
How easy is it to do on a focus with the engine in the car.
Thanks for instruction! I can change timing belt in my car now. Thanks
This is a good video, with only one failing.
The third (3rd) engine lock off tool, is missing.
This goes on to the flywheel where the starter motor goes.
This then stops anyone then "as you said" bending the crank shaft aliening tool to what is NOT a locking pin.
It is just an aliening tool.
You need the flywheel locked to prevent this happening.
So, there is no need for as you did to use a pair of mole grips to re aliening the crankshaft, As, it wouldn't have moved.
Other than this.
Great video thanks for making it.
This helps a lot do u need to drain the engine oil and coolant ?
Brilliant video.. thanks.. is it possible to change a vauxhall wet belt on the peugot designed engine to a chain? I believe there have been probs with GM wet belt of belt degradation.. thanks
great video, just a question are any o rings on timing casing i assemble everything back and i left with 2 O-rings that i don`t remember where it goes
Hello . Very very good demo . thank you . Greatings from norway
Děkuji za video. Perfekt.
Jen idiot mohl toto vymyslet.
Udělejte to na motoru v autě....
Hello alan
I am using ford mondeo 2016, The powertrain signal turns on and engine cut off hard acceleration while driving. I have did all the service also. Its very dangerous for driving especially in motorways. Do u have any idea about this issue?
Thanks Allan, what a great video and a massive help
Hi mate do you have to take the power steering pump off to get the tensioner out on the connect engine? Cheers
In our work fleet ,we had 6 out of 6 transit connects with failed wet belts. All of them failed between 25k and 90k kilometers, and one of them even failed twice. Some of these vehicles did however have a fair deal of idle hours, but still all of them was covered under ford 100k km driveline warranty. Must be said that climate here is fairly harsh and temperatured could go as low as -25C in the winter.
Jeg også tror det er fantastisk og veldig flink tusen hjertelig takk for det kursen.
thank you my friend
What are the measurements of the camshaft setting plate? How thick is it?
That video was really helpful 👍i need to replace the head gasket on my son 230l ford transit connect 2005- do you have a video to help with this,
I was looking for timing marks before removing the head and now see what to do thanks to your wet belt video.👍steve spain
hi steve, i don't have any information on removing the head but it should be straight forward, the timing is the most complicated part
Thanks dear I learned a lot on this transit
Hi I’ve got a connect with the same engine. Having difficulty starting over the last few days. Machine says Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of self test. Asked around searched the interweb (where I found your great video) can’t find the location of this sensor 🤦🏻♂️ Would you have the answer 🙏🏻🙏🏻
My wet belt went on my connect 1.8 TDCi van , its interesting to see what the garage are doing to my van
Is it important that the diesel pump is in markings with belt? If the diesel pump isnt timed
Yes it is very important to have the diesel pump timed
Is this the same procedure for the 2 liter diesel In the Ford torneo 2018
no
Ok thanks Have you done one for that modern
hello alan, how long is the timing pin, I bought the timing lock kit and there are 3 in the kit and I don't know which of them are for a ford mondeo 1.8 tdci 125 hp, I'm interested in the size of the pin that enters the engine block, thank you
hi,is there a way to align it with the dry belt off?The guys that worked on my car didn t have these tools and everything is dismantled.I want to buy the tools and do it.
I replaced the cover behind that wet belt once was challenging for sure in the van engine not removed
Hi mate your post is excellent thanks. Just got a query about the notch on the cam pully and the dot on the fuel pump pulley can these be set at a set number of groves on the belt apart
Like the wet belt is