Novice mechanic here having successfully completed this job on my connect 2k miles ago. My van snapped its wet belt about 7 years ago at 50k miles according to the previous owner, but they didn't convert to a chain after rebuilding the head. 60k miles later, having spent a month converting it to a wee camper, I decided that leaving it wasn't worth the risk! Thanks to this video and the video from badgertronix i was saved a fair chunk of cash, have a van that (probably) won't explode, and I got a good bit of experience at the same time. My belt was cracked to high heaven too, so taking the plunge was the right decision. Some things to note from my experience: My camshaft pully was stuck on tight, no amount of tapping would free it. I was able to pop it off easily with a homemade puller using 3 m10 bolts and some thick steel for the body with 3 holes drilled. You'll need some nuts too. I'll let you work out the rest (part of the fun eh). So just be prepared for this. Ford make a dedicated tool but i couldn't find one anywhere really. My new crankshaft seal was leaking quite badly when i installed it, so i replaced with the old one and it was completely fine, still going strong. The seal was from FAI in the lymm engine kits. I saw another guy had this issue so it may be common. So just try this before you go diving back in there thinking the alignment is off. Cheers Alan.
this vid. was my first date with you.... i put a spanner on the crank, another on the cam, turned engine clockwise, stopped, then turned it anticlock, no lag between top + bottom spanners, therefore fkin belt fitted. needed dmf as well, so pulled lump out. checked shells, big ends gone [99k] , oilpump partially clogged with belt dust. all the belts, shells, wpump, aux tensioner, dmf + clutch + all seals/gaskets , £850. survived 4yrs now, but use 5/40 oil every 3k cos mains rumbling. you were a very expensive video to watch, but well worth it. keep up the good work + give monny one for me
honesty one of the most useful videos iv ever ever watched been in the trade 11 years and trying to get info on this exact job is near impossible even with contacts in ford thanks alan
What a hero, I didn't realise how much this is for the professionals. Definitely not for the faint hardy DIY with no indoor facilities - I just bought a second-hand Connect at 108K as mine said its prayers on the M6 at 160K. I think I will visit my professional mechanic and let him have the responsibility 😱 Fascinating video that just helps demonstrate why we should use properly skilled people. Thank you
Still a great video Alan. Now coming up on 300,000 miles, this was my second time doing this job with the engine in the vehicle (Ford dealer did it at 100,000 miles). A couple of things I found: (1) You won't get the water pump off without taking the auxilliary drive belt tensioner off first (1 x 10mm screw and 1 x 13mm screw into block). There physically isn't the room to lift it upwards between the engine and the wheel-arch/side of the engine bay - it has to be passed rearwards and the tensioner pulley will be in the way. (2) Getting that engine mounting bracket off is a nightmare due to the length of the bolts holding it on. You need to take the water pump pulley off first to make extra room to wiggle the mounting bracket around (likewise when re-fitting after wet belt is fitted - make sure the mounting bracket is fitted before re-fitting the water pump pulley) - also jacking the engine up a bit creates a bit more clearance. (3) Its important to re-fit the wiring harness to the injectors and various sensors on top of the rocker cover (disconnected to remove the rocker cover) the same way it was originally. When I did this the previous time, I routed the wiring over the fuel pipes instead of under them and it must have strained some wiring resulting in the car going into limp mode until such time as the wiring harness was put under the fuel pipes.
good to now engines good for 300000 , got one in mk2 focus great car issue is clutcj gone at 90000 , seems to be release bearing but im think dual mass as well ... I get it replaced and should be good for ages ...Not had car form new previous owner ruined the clutch mines has the metal chain
Cheers for that, I had one come in today and was unsure about the pump timing, mines on the focus so I’m finding it hard to find the crank blanking plate, I know it’s behind the alternator drive but it alludes me, thank you kind sir for clearing up a few things before I tackle it head on in the morning, much appreciation and love
Bought a 58 mondeo with 125k miles. Took it to my local garage for timing belt and oil change and the lad said please do the wet belt too. Ford recommends timing and wet belt to be changed at 125 k or 10 years. Glad i accepted for him to change it as it was all cracked. Probably would have failed in the next 2k miles totalling the engine
Followed your instructions and it’s spot on , short of having a faulty crank seal the van starts & runs and I’ve now improved its longevity- can’t thank you enough for taking the time to make this video 👍👍
There's no prospect of me ever owning any vehicles with this engine, but I watched the video anyway just to see what the hell a wet belt set up would look like. I don't like the look of it! But I liked the video a lot shows how the job is done in the real world. Probably would have been worth doing the video on a real customer job or having at least the new kit of parts, but you definitely demonstrated how to get the job done. It kept my interest through out even after I'd seen the wet belt, I got sucked in and had to see the rest of the demo! Only observation, when refitting the crank pulley carefully over the seal, I reckon a smear of engine oil on the sealing surface on the pulley and / or the seal would be a help to assist sealing and minimise risk of teh seal getting caught and nicked. But as you said you've done hundreds of these so evidently fitting it dry but with great care works just fine! Top vid. Kudos to you for being a real skilled mechanic
thank you, i had to borrow that dud engine to make the video as i never had a camera when i was regulary changing those belts, so it was a case of now or never..thanks again for your comment, much appreciated
You've done my mate a real favour.lol. I've decided to leave his connect alone. I used to be a fitter in early 90s these 1800s have really changed. N FFS they needed it!!!!!
Absolutely brilliantly explained and carried out by a man who knows what he's doing, what manufacturer in their right mind would design an engine like this to put a wet belt inside an engine and then another belt on the outside making it double trouble, if either of those belts fail then that engine is toast but I suppose it's a good way of selling engines for Ford. I believe they are doing the new 2ltr diesel the same way, I for one will Never buy a Ford with this stupid engine fitted because as usual with Ford as long as it lasts till the end of the warranty period their fine with that and then it's you parting with the cash, nice one Ford.
Bang on I was sure if the crankshaft locking pin fitted inside a hole in the crankshaft, good to know it does rotate anticlockwise when the locking pin is in place, My connect starts runs perfect, but once it starts getting warm it's blowing out blue grey smoke so I'm gonna take off the head to see what's the problem. Great video thanks 👍
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this strip down. Pulling the tensioner revealed a domed tensioner plunger (phew!!!) but all the same it helped a TON changing bruvs water pump and top cambelt in his Focus Mk.2. Getting the lower engine mount out with the engine in the car was a shit bag of a funt of a castard of a futha mucker of a nightmare but otherwise this job is quite do able on the drive for unauthorised meddlers such as I am. Keep up the good work, I owe you a six pack of your preferred beverage!
Would it be further wise to take off the oil pan and check the pickup screen? Nothing like doing all this and have the engine starving for oil and kill itself.
In our work fleet ,we had 6 out of 6 transit connects with failed wet belts. All of them failed between 25k and 90k kilometers, and one of them even failed twice. Some of these vehicles did however have a fair deal of idle hours, but still all of them was covered under ford 100k km driveline warranty. Must be said that climate here is fairly harsh and temperatured could go as low as -25C in the winter.
It is possible but a little awkward, i've done quiet a few, if your belt has gone the pistons WILL need to be replaced as they crack at the swirl cup edges. A trick if you need to change the pistons is to carefully break the thin aluminium webbing away from the lower half of the crankcase rather than seperating the two halves to allow access to the connecting rod bolts because they are a nightmare to seal if you split the halves. It takes extra work to get the top belt timing marks lined back up but it is not essential because the top cam sprocket is not keyed and the pump does not require timing. Although it isn't essential it just makes the next guys job easier when doing the next upper belt change if you time the pump and cam sprockets properly on assembly.
First time I did one I had no idea it had a wet belt. Did the top belt made up how easy it was. Three month later came back with a wrecked head. Wet belt had gone. Lesson learned. Ring Ford with the chassis number and find out.
About time, can't believe it , I am convinced that when anyone attempts to upload a vital video relating to ford engines, I'm sure the people at ford have it forcefully removed, Brilliant video. Now can you do the dmf on a ford kuga awd 2010 2.0 tdci please.
Brilliant video Alan I know it's an old video but it's still important to know because these are a terrible idea and ford are being sued in America because of accidents caused by the belts perishing I really enjoy watching your videos they are great for the home mechanic 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Предыдущее поколение этих движков было более проще в плане замены комплекта грм и сальника коленвала. За видео ставлю 5 такое в училища надо показывать (на Русском) Super👍
hello there, this video helped me alot when doing my timing belt a couple years back (thanks for that), but i am now having to change out the crank pulley, is it enough to lock the ringgear and screw it off and replace, or will this get it out of timing? cheers from norway
Hi. This video is very helpful. Thanks for uploading it. My question is that on my car the cam shaft snaped which has bent the valve luckily it didn't damaged the pistons. So I have bought the new head with complete valves, Hydraulic lifters and camshaft. So the timing is all out at the moment. I have bought the complete timing tool kit. I have used the timing bar to lock the camshaft from the right hand side. How do I lock the the fuel pump pulley and how do I use the locking pin to lock the crank pulley. In this video the belt is being changed in a normal circumstances n mine is completely different case. Please someone help. Thanks.
Très bonne vidéo. Mais attention,en montant le joint de la pompe à gazole comme ça et la poulie sans pâte à joint, il y a 99% de chance d'avoir une fuite d'huile ! Very good video. But be careful, by mounting the fuel pump gasket like this and the pulley without a compound seal, there is a 99% chance of having an oil leak! Thanks to you (google translation)
Hello alan I am using ford mondeo 2016, The powertrain signal turns on and engine cut off hard acceleration while driving. I have did all the service also. Its very dangerous for driving especially in motorways. Do u have any idea about this issue?
Hi Do you know if this is a common job now that most mechanics know about? Do you do a belt conversion to a chain? If so where are you based and roughly what is the cost. My vehicle is a 1.8 2012 connect with 80k miles Thank you
Alan had a discussion with an independent garage owner and he came up with following points on wet belt/chain situation 1 he claimed chains broke on the original engine so as long as wet belt is changed in line with specs there shouldn't be a problem 2 he reckon that you shouldn't use a chain conversion on the wet belt engine as the internals have been modified to suit wet belt . 3 he reckons wet belt is used for emissions/fuel consumption and less particle contamination in oil as opposed to chain . 4 he reckons he does this job without aligning tool and has never had one leak . I'll keep my thoughts to myself until you reply , hope I'm not taxing you too much regards Ian.
hi, i will try to answer this...i have changed about fifty wet belts for chain conversions now...most of these cars had chains put in them about 100k miles...and most of these cars were taxis...we get rid of these cars between 300-400k miles so most of the chains have done 2-300k miles with no problems related to the chains whatsoever. i have never heard of one of these chains breaking either..they are a thick double chain. the cars run perfectly fine with the chains..never had an issue. as for aligning the lower crankcase...there are no dowels to hold the case in a specific position so without the alignment tool the crank seal will no doubt not be central on the crank pulley......i fitted lots of these lower crank covers without the alignment tool as i did not know one was needed until i had a few bad crank seals leaking....then i bought the tool and had to align some of the crank covers. you may be lucky without the tool but it is risky. the big issue here...a new wet belt kit is considerably cheaper than a chain conversion...so if you don't intend keeping the car for more than another 100k miles then fitting a wet belt is the best option...if you do then a chain would be the way to go. i stand by the fact the belts are supposed to be quieter in operation...and cheaper to fit as the chains cost more to produce..in reality the engines sound the same with a chain or wet belt....hope this helps
Hello, your video is excellent. At the level of the pinion on the crankshaft, when you speak of the pin which must go in the round hole and not in the one which is oblong, what happens if I go up the pinion with the pin in the oblong hole?
Hi Alan can I just say a big thank you for your videos. I have a 2004 ford transit connect 1.8 tddi with a bhpa engine Now for my predicament i have stripped my van down with suspected timing chain fault upon removing the chain cover every thing looks good and I have the three bolts in the top gear, now is this saying that it has had a wet belt upgrade? If so the chain should be OK as the van has only 155'000 on the clock.
I have a 2006 Ford s-max 1.8 tdci. It looks like this engine probably does not have a wet belt. I will of course check this at my local Ford shop. If I understand you correctly, then replacing the upper belt is quite straight forward easy. I only have to remove the cover, paint mark the 2 sprockets, replace the time belt tensioner and fit the new belt. That's it? No need to remove the top cover of the engine and no need to use the special timing tools? And there's no need to replace the lower chain, because it will anyway outlive the car? My engine will soon reach 400.000 km and is still running perfectly.
Excellent video can you please tell me if I can just remove the tensioner from the bottom belt without affecting the timing? I want to check if my engine is belt or chain thanks
Hi I’ve got a connect with the same engine. Having difficulty starting over the last few days. Machine says Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of self test. Asked around searched the interweb (where I found your great video) can’t find the location of this sensor 🤦🏻♂️ Would you have the answer 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I was going to give this a go myself on my 2010 Transit Connect, but i won't have the engine removed as he has here, so i can imagine it being a nightmare.
Hi Allan.....unfortunately the crank seal failed on install....I used the case alignment tool OK.....I'm hoping to just pull out the bad seal and replace it with a new one....anything else to consider? Many thanks 🙏
I'm on 155000 miles... how long will these engines go on for once i replace the wetbelt?. It's had regular services. Just not sure wether to buy a re con or do the chain conversion. Thank you.
Thanks a lot for this video i found it very helpful. I had took the timing case off my 2006 connect and i put back in without using the element tool , do you think it should be a problem ? Thanks
Ok, been a disaster here,my daughter's C-max 1.8tdci with "history" of timing and wet belt done has snapped or displaced the main belt. I was going to look at a 10reg, but got an estimate for cam belt and chain conversion like you showed us, and it was £850-1k.... car is on 84 but was gonna get it done... not getting the car now. What do you think of C-max 2.0tdci engine, that's a cheaper, simpler belt change?
A very helpful and informative video - I am just starting the wet belt on my Transit Connect so a big thank you. One area that I don’t currently understand is the damage that appears to occur when these belts break (happily to date, I have no experience of this although my van has done 125k). I had assumed that given the belt connects the crank to the high pressure fuel pump (and assuming the dry belt is ok) all that happens when the wet bet breaks is that the vehicle stops due to fuel starvation. I am obviously missing something - to generate the damage to valves, guides and pistons surely the dry belt has to break as well?
Solved my silly question - obviously the high pressure pump is the connection point to the camshaft from the crankshaft via the wet belt - anyway thanks for the vid.
Brilliant job you make it look easy.just wondering is it a wet belt or chain in my 2016 ford transit custom 2.0 diesel 130bhp.Any advice would be greatly appreciated cheers.
hello alan, how long is the timing pin, I bought the timing lock kit and there are 3 in the kit and I don't know which of them are for a ford mondeo 1.8 tdci 125 hp, I'm interested in the size of the pin that enters the engine block, thank you
Had my wet belt snap the other week. Had a busy few days sorting the engine and fitting new belts etc. Now just need to get the timing back to normal. I am guessing inserting the locking pin in the block will work exactly the same if I turn the engine till it buts up against it and obviously use the cam locking plate as normal? Cheers
Brilliant video.. thanks.. is it possible to change a vauxhall wet belt on the peugot designed engine to a chain? I believe there have been probs with GM wet belt of belt degradation.. thanks
Hi, is there any problem if i take of the belt tensioner to see if is chain or belt? Can i put it back if is chain and start the car after check or what i should do?
This is a good video, with only one failing. The third (3rd) engine lock off tool, is missing. This goes on to the flywheel where the starter motor goes. This then stops anyone then "as you said" bending the crank shaft aliening tool to what is NOT a locking pin. It is just an aliening tool. You need the flywheel locked to prevent this happening. So, there is no need for as you did to use a pair of mole grips to re aliening the crankshaft, As, it wouldn't have moved. Other than this. Great video thanks for making it.
That video was really helpful 👍i need to replace the head gasket on my son 230l ford transit connect 2005- do you have a video to help with this, I was looking for timing marks before removing the head and now see what to do thanks to your wet belt video.👍steve spain
Hello good, I have the same engine, but it is supposed to have a lower chain. Can it be detected if it has a chain or belt by difference in noise in the motor? Does it sound different depending on whether you have an oil-bathed chain or belt? Thanks. Because otherwise how could you know without having to drop the entire distribution? All the best
Ok my daughter's C-max 1.8tdci snapped the camshaft in 3, we assumed due to wet belt failure, I've pulled the engine to see for myself. The normal cambelt had snapped, stripping some of the teeth. The wet belt and tensioner appear in good condition. So I am at a loss what else could have caused the failure.
If i just want to change de pulley crank seal do I need timing tools ? If the pulley is out ,the timing will be damaged? I saw your video now and I need to know by tomorrow if i need timing tools...THANKs!!!
Alan. What would your suggestion be for the Transit Connect 1.8tdci T200 EGR valve/manifold. Replace or clean out? Most garages i know of replace the entire manifold with EGR valve but would that be because they find it too time consuming to clean out original EGR valve inlet manifold ? They also have EGR Valve Lift pin issues as i understand it with the EGR pin fitted with a tiny roller bearing at each end. ?
the egr used to be sold with the manifold but you don't change the manifold.....best thing you can do is with ignition off disconnect the multi plug from the egr valve and tape it up....as long as the flap in in the manifold is closed the engine will now run perfectly fine and no engine management lights should come on
Hi Alan hope your well I have been doing the wet belt on the mk4 Mondeo today I had two problems the first we locked the cams with the steel bar my mate held the fly wheel with a pry bar but when i tried to get the big pully off it turned the pully with the bolt but. He said the fly wheel did not turn so would This caused any damage and also when we turned the fuel pump pully to tight it up it moved a bit one way then another would this do any damage i have been watching your video but these are the only problems i have had could please let me no as its worrying me thanks
Novice mechanic here having successfully completed this job on my connect 2k miles ago. My van snapped its wet belt about 7 years ago at 50k miles according to the previous owner, but they didn't convert to a chain after rebuilding the head. 60k miles later, having spent a month converting it to a wee camper, I decided that leaving it wasn't worth the risk! Thanks to this video and the video from badgertronix i was saved a fair chunk of cash, have a van that (probably) won't explode, and I got a good bit of experience at the same time. My belt was cracked to high heaven too, so taking the plunge was the right decision.
Some things to note from my experience:
My camshaft pully was stuck on tight, no amount of tapping would free it. I was able to pop it off easily with a homemade puller using 3 m10 bolts and some thick steel for the body with 3 holes drilled. You'll need some nuts too. I'll let you work out the rest (part of the fun eh). So just be prepared for this. Ford make a dedicated tool but i couldn't find one anywhere really.
My new crankshaft seal was leaking quite badly when i installed it, so i replaced with the old one and it was completely fine, still going strong. The seal was from FAI in the lymm engine kits. I saw another guy had this issue so it may be common. So just try this before you go diving back in there thinking the alignment is off.
Cheers Alan.
thanks for your comment chlorotica, hats off to you for getting what is a daunting job done
this vid. was my first date with you.... i put a spanner on the crank, another on the cam, turned engine clockwise, stopped, then turned it anticlock, no lag between top + bottom spanners, therefore fkin belt fitted. needed dmf as well, so pulled lump out. checked shells, big ends gone [99k] , oilpump partially clogged with belt dust. all the belts, shells, wpump, aux tensioner, dmf + clutch + all seals/gaskets , £850. survived 4yrs now, but use 5/40 oil every 3k cos mains rumbling. you were a very expensive video to watch, but well worth it. keep up the good work + give monny one for me
honesty one of the most useful videos iv ever ever watched been in the trade 11 years and trying to get info on this exact job is near impossible even with contacts in ford thanks alan
What a hero, I didn't realise how much this is for the professionals. Definitely not for the faint hardy DIY with no indoor facilities - I just bought a second-hand Connect at 108K as mine said its prayers on the M6 at 160K. I think I will visit my professional mechanic and let him have the responsibility 😱
Fascinating video that just helps demonstrate why we should use properly skilled people. Thank you
Great video, just replaced my timing belt of my Mondeo. This video is more easy than the workshop manual. I put 6 hours work in mine.
Glad it helped, cheers rutger
Amazing video. Thank you. Just done a transit connect wet belt for the first time and with your video it was a breeze. Keep up the great work.
excellant, cheers Damien
Still a great video Alan. Now coming up on 300,000 miles, this was my second time doing this job with the engine in the vehicle (Ford dealer did it at 100,000 miles). A couple of things I found:
(1) You won't get the water pump off without taking the auxilliary drive belt tensioner off first (1 x 10mm screw and 1 x 13mm screw into block). There physically isn't the room to lift it upwards between the engine and the wheel-arch/side of the engine bay - it has to be passed rearwards and the tensioner pulley will be in the way.
(2) Getting that engine mounting bracket off is a nightmare due to the length of the bolts holding it on. You need to take the water pump pulley off first to make extra room to wiggle the mounting bracket around (likewise when re-fitting after wet belt is fitted - make sure the mounting bracket is fitted before re-fitting the water pump pulley) - also jacking the engine up a bit creates a bit more clearance.
(3) Its important to re-fit the wiring harness to the injectors and various sensors on top of the rocker cover (disconnected to remove the rocker cover) the same way it was originally. When I did this the previous time, I routed the wiring over the fuel pipes instead of under them and it must have strained some wiring resulting in the car going into limp mode until such time as the wiring harness was put under the fuel pipes.
thanks for your explanation, very interesting
good to now engines good for 300000 , got one in mk2 focus great car issue is clutcj gone at 90000 , seems to be release bearing but im think dual mass as well ... I get it replaced and should be good for ages ...Not had car form new previous owner ruined the clutch mines has the metal chain
Have to do this for a client because he’s high pressure pump broke down. Helped me a lot man thanks
Cheers for that, I had one come in today and was unsure about the pump timing, mines on the focus so I’m finding it hard to find the crank blanking plate, I know it’s behind the alternator drive but it alludes me, thank you kind sir for clearing up a few things before I tackle it head on in the morning, much appreciation and love
Probably the best demo vid I've ever seen. Possibly the most stupid engine design I've ever seen.
for ford its a great idea::its so the car has to return to the stealership to be repaired!!!
@@rearspeaker6364 And with there kind of politics by Trump good exposed,it was my last Ford.
@@Boca-do-rio Psa uses a wet belt on some of their engines also not much more to choose from then.
@@rimmersbryggeri Hi, how would one know which psa engines that would be? both 1.6 and 2.0? Which models/years? Thanks!
@@zernestro I don't know but I could find out. They are inte the 3008 anyway. seems to be a whole range of displacements petrol engines. Puretech
Spot on with the crucial explanations, and important notices. You nailed it with this video! Great job!
definitely one of the best videos I’ve watched on car maintenance. very well photographed and put together.
Proper job Been a mechanic for many years helped me out quite a lot thank you
Bought a 58 mondeo with 125k miles. Took it to my local garage for timing belt and oil change and the lad said please do the wet belt too. Ford recommends timing and wet belt to be changed at 125 k or 10 years. Glad i accepted for him to change it as it was all cracked. Probably would have failed in the next 2k miles totalling the engine
Absolutely spot on this is just what I needed but I can’t help thinking it’ll take twice as long with the engine in place 🤦♂️
Just changed a wet belt on a connnect by following this video - very helpful alan! Thanks! 👍🏼
cheers TTA, glad it helped
Followed your instructions and it’s spot on , short of having a faulty crank seal the van starts & runs and I’ve now improved its longevity- can’t thank you enough for taking the time to make this video 👍👍
There's no prospect of me ever owning any vehicles with this engine, but I watched the video anyway just to see what the hell a wet belt set up would look like. I don't like the look of it! But I liked the video a lot shows how the job is done in the real world. Probably would have been worth doing the video on a real customer job or having at least the new kit of parts, but you definitely demonstrated how to get the job done. It kept my interest through out even after I'd seen the wet belt, I got sucked in and had to see the rest of the demo! Only observation, when refitting the crank pulley carefully over the seal, I reckon a smear of engine oil on the sealing surface on the pulley and / or the seal would be a help to assist sealing and minimise risk of teh seal getting caught and nicked. But as you said you've done hundreds of these so evidently fitting it dry but with great care works just fine! Top vid. Kudos to you for being a real skilled mechanic
thank you, i had to borrow that dud engine to make the video as i never had a camera when i was regulary changing those belts, so it was a case of now or never..thanks again for your comment, much appreciated
@@alan4x hi Alan ive got 12 plate connect the wet belt snap whats best to do fix it and any place werr I can take it
Probably the best guide I have seen for a long time now. That’s for sharing. Thumbs up
Yes bang on 👍
A first class job you have done of explaining how the job is done. Well done.Thankyou.
You've done my mate a real favour.lol. I've decided to leave his connect alone. I used to be a fitter in early 90s these 1800s have really changed. N FFS they needed it!!!!!
Absolutely brilliantly explained and carried out by a man who knows what he's doing, what manufacturer in their right mind would design an engine like this to put a wet belt inside an engine and then another belt on the outside making it double trouble, if either of those belts fail then that engine is toast but I suppose it's a good way of selling engines for Ford. I believe they are doing the new 2ltr diesel the same way, I for one will Never buy a Ford with this stupid engine fitted because as usual with Ford as long as it lasts till the end of the warranty period their fine with that and then it's you parting with the cash, nice one Ford.
Excellent video Alan. And clarifies the engine timing perfectly.
Bang on I was sure if the crankshaft locking pin fitted inside a hole in the crankshaft, good to know it does rotate anticlockwise when the locking pin is in place, My connect starts runs perfect, but once it starts getting warm it's blowing out blue grey smoke so I'm gonna take off the head to see what's the problem. Great video thanks 👍
What a Brilliant and helpful video... Cheers bro, you're a champion
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this strip down. Pulling the tensioner revealed a domed tensioner plunger (phew!!!) but all the same it helped a TON changing bruvs water pump and top cambelt in his Focus Mk.2. Getting the lower engine mount out with the engine in the car was a shit bag of a funt of a castard of a futha mucker of a nightmare but otherwise this job is quite do able on the drive for unauthorised meddlers such as I am. Keep up the good work, I owe you a six pack of your preferred beverage!
cheers
Would it be further wise to take off the oil pan and check the pickup screen? Nothing like doing all this and have the engine starving for oil and kill itself.
Great video and very informative! Just done my C Max, thanks. Takes a bit longer with the engine in the car though :-)
In our work fleet ,we had 6 out of 6 transit connects with failed wet belts. All of them failed between 25k and 90k kilometers, and one of them even failed twice. Some of these vehicles did however have a fair deal of idle hours, but still all of them was covered under ford 100k km driveline warranty. Must be said that climate here is fairly harsh and temperatured could go as low as -25C in the winter.
Nice Instructions Alan. Just about to do one of these for my stepson. You answered every question I had in my head.
Omg, this is all pretty hard and precise work. Now imagine doing it all without taking the engine out of the car! Must be hell.
i did one today on a galaxy long job lol
It is possible but a little awkward, i've done quiet a few, if your belt has gone the pistons WILL need to be replaced as they crack at the swirl cup edges.
A trick if you need to change the pistons is to carefully break the thin aluminium webbing away from the lower half of the crankcase rather than seperating the two halves to allow access to the connecting rod bolts because they are a nightmare to seal if you split the halves.
It takes extra work to get the top belt timing marks lined back up but it is not essential because the top cam sprocket is not keyed and the pump does not require timing.
Although it isn't essential it just makes the next guys job easier when doing the next upper belt change if you time the pump and cam sprockets properly on assembly.
You haven't done the THREE timing chains on a GM 3.6 litre HF direct injection V6.... this is less than 1/6 as bad.
First time I did one I had no idea it had a wet belt. Did the top belt made up how easy it was. Three month later came back with a wrecked head. Wet belt had gone. Lesson learned. Ring Ford with the chassis number and find out.
Excellent & clear video even a french man who have some difficulties with the pure english accent!!!
About time, can't believe it , I am convinced that when anyone attempts to upload a vital video relating to ford engines, I'm sure the people at ford have it forcefully removed, Brilliant video. Now can you do the dmf on a ford kuga awd 2010 2.0 tdci please.
محمد كولاني
Brilliant video Alan I know it's an old video but it's still important to know because these are a terrible idea and ford are being sued in America because of accidents caused by the belts perishing I really enjoy watching your videos they are great for the home mechanic 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
GREAT VIDEO and Thanks for taking your time to make it and share it with others!!!
Brilliant video helped me loads today i replaced the chain as didn't know if it had been done also replacement top belt👌
good work and well done
Very nice video, every how many km must be changed the wet belt? If is chain doesn't need to be changed?
Thanks
hi, wet belt is 200,000 km,,,, chain no need to ever replace
Great Job Alan. Thank you for the instructions... truly professional. thank you
thanks, glad it helped
a bit more tricky doing it in position. was much easier taking the whole engine out. But we managed. Thanks to you...
Thanks to your video I changed the belts on my car myself. Thanks a lot for the help...
excellant, not an easy job so very well done😊
Предыдущее поколение этих движков было более проще в плане замены комплекта грм и сальника коленвала. За видео ставлю 5 такое в училища надо показывать (на Русском) Super👍
Да еслиб на русском
hello there, this video helped me alot when doing my timing belt a couple years back (thanks for that), but i am now having to change out the crank pulley, is it enough to lock the ringgear and screw it off and replace, or will this get it out of timing? cheers from norway
you can just remove the crank bolt and pulley and it will not affect the wet belt timing, just fit a new pulley and bolt it back
@@alan4x thank you soo much :)
Doing this at the moment, trawling your videos as homework!
Trying to do it with the enigne still in place.
a great video alan, ive never done one yet so this is a very clear indication of correct procedure...many thanks .cheers..
Hi. This video is very helpful. Thanks for uploading it. My question is that on my car the cam shaft snaped which has bent the valve luckily it didn't damaged the pistons. So I have bought the new head with complete valves, Hydraulic lifters and camshaft. So the timing is all out at the moment. I have bought the complete timing tool kit. I have used the timing bar to lock the camshaft from the right hand side. How do I lock the the fuel pump pulley and how do I use the locking pin to lock the crank pulley. In this video the belt is being changed in a normal circumstances n mine is completely different case. Please someone help. Thanks.
Très bonne vidéo. Mais attention,en montant le joint de la pompe à gazole comme ça et la poulie sans pâte à joint, il y a 99% de chance d'avoir une fuite d'huile !
Very good video. But be careful, by mounting the fuel pump gasket like this and the pulley without a compound seal, there is a 99% chance of having an oil leak! Thanks to you (google translation)
You've really been a great help, and I appreciate it no end.
fantastic. I think this answers every question I had about doing this job. Cheers!
Hello alan
I am using ford mondeo 2016, The powertrain signal turns on and engine cut off hard acceleration while driving. I have did all the service also. Its very dangerous for driving especially in motorways. Do u have any idea about this issue?
Perfect video (super instructions + good video quality). You are really Professional.
Thank you, Alan!!!
Professional:D dobreee!
Hi
Do you know if this is a common job now that most mechanics know about?
Do you do a belt conversion to a chain? If so where are you based and roughly what is the cost.
My vehicle is a 1.8 2012 connect with 80k miles
Thank you
Alan had a discussion with an independent garage owner and he came up with following points on wet belt/chain situation 1 he claimed chains broke on the original engine so as long as wet belt is changed in line with specs there shouldn't be a problem
2 he reckon that you shouldn't use a chain conversion on the wet belt engine as the internals have been modified to suit wet belt .
3 he reckons wet belt is used for emissions/fuel consumption and less particle contamination in oil as opposed to chain .
4 he reckons he does this job without aligning tool and has never had one leak .
I'll keep my thoughts to myself until you reply , hope I'm not taxing you too much regards Ian.
hi, i will try to answer this...i have changed about fifty wet belts for chain conversions now...most of these cars had chains put in them about 100k miles...and most of these cars were taxis...we get rid of these cars between 300-400k miles so most of the chains have done 2-300k miles with no problems related to the chains whatsoever.
i have never heard of one of these chains breaking either..they are a thick double chain.
the cars run perfectly fine with the chains..never had an issue.
as for aligning the lower crankcase...there are no dowels to hold the case in a specific position so without the alignment tool the crank seal will no doubt not be central on the crank pulley......i fitted lots of these lower crank covers without the alignment tool as i did not know one was needed until i had a few bad crank seals leaking....then i bought the tool and had to align some of the crank covers. you may be lucky without the tool but it is risky.
the big issue here...a new wet belt kit is considerably cheaper than a chain conversion...so if you don't intend keeping the car for more than another 100k miles then fitting a wet belt is the best option...if you do then a chain would be the way to go.
i stand by the fact the belts are supposed to be quieter in operation...and cheaper to fit as the chains cost more to produce..in reality the engines sound the same with a chain or wet belt....hope this helps
Thanks for the quick response you've basically confirmed my thoughts , very much appreciated thanks again .
Good video shots, well explained, pro instruction and useful tips.
Thank you very much
All grate . But can this be done with engine in car ?
This helps a lot do u need to drain the engine oil and coolant ?
Hello, your video is excellent.
At the level of the pinion on the crankshaft, when you speak of the pin which must go in the round hole and not in the one which is oblong, what happens if I go up the pinion with the pin in the oblong hole?
Alan thanks for the video slow and precise instructions fantastic 😁keep them coming thank you
Hi Alan can I just say a big thank you for your videos.
I have a 2004 ford transit connect 1.8 tddi with a bhpa engine
Now for my predicament i have stripped my van down with suspected timing chain fault upon removing the chain cover every thing looks good and I have the three bolts in the top gear, now is this saying that it has had a wet belt upgrade? If so the chain should be OK as the van has only 155'000 on the clock.
Very impressive video quality.
great video, just a question are any o rings on timing casing i assemble everything back and i left with 2 O-rings that i don`t remember where it goes
How easy is it to do on a focus with the engine in the car.
I have a 2006 Ford s-max 1.8 tdci. It looks like this engine probably does not have a wet belt. I will of course check this at my local Ford shop. If I understand you correctly, then replacing the upper belt is quite straight forward easy. I only have to remove the cover, paint mark the 2 sprockets, replace the time belt tensioner and fit the new belt. That's it? No need to remove the top cover of the engine and no need to use the special timing tools? And there's no need to replace the lower chain, because it will anyway outlive the car? My engine will soon reach 400.000 km and is still running perfectly.
yep...thats all you do..nice and easy for the top belt...assuming it runs well before you start the job...with the paint marks you can't get it wrong
Dobra robota kolego 👍💪
Excellent video can you please tell me if I can just remove the tensioner from the bottom belt without affecting the timing? I want to check if my engine is belt or chain thanks
I would also like to know the answer to this question please?
the best video on how to change the timing belt of a Ford transit connect, congratulations from Spain
Умеют же показывать. Профессиональная съёмка и ремонт
Да.еще бы на русском .было бы хорошо.
Hi I’ve got a connect with the same engine. Having difficulty starting over the last few days. Machine says Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of self test. Asked around searched the interweb (where I found your great video) can’t find the location of this sensor 🤦🏻♂️ Would you have the answer 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I was going to give this a go myself on my 2010 Transit Connect, but i won't have the engine removed as he has here, so i can imagine it being a nightmare.
The Ford equivalent of snatching defeat from the jaws of victory
Hi mate do you have to take the power steering pump off to get the tensioner out on the connect engine? Cheers
Best demo video I have ever seen. Great detail
Best most help full vid i have seen in a long time and well presented
Hi Allan.....unfortunately the crank seal failed on install....I used the case alignment tool OK.....I'm hoping to just pull out the bad seal and replace it with a new one....anything else to consider? Many thanks 🙏
What are the measurements of the camshaft setting plate? How thick is it?
Top drawer video.Best I have seen for this job.
cheers lain
I'm on 155000 miles... how long will these engines go on for once i replace the wetbelt?. It's had regular services. Just not sure wether to buy a re con or do the chain conversion. Thank you.
these engines are pretty much bullet proof and should even outlive you😁
@alan4x brilliant thank you for the quick reply. I wonder if I could get it to 300,000 with a chain kit...
Thanks a lot for this video i found it very helpful.
I had took the timing case off my 2006 connect and i put back in without using the element tool , do you think it should be a problem ? Thanks
those casings should be aligned up with a special tool....if you're crank pulley seal starts to leak then thats why, if it docent then your ok
this helped my dad so much his car is reaching 108 000
Question: why is it important to align the belt lines when the pump isn't timed and the cam sprocket is adjusted at the end anyways?
Ok, been a disaster here,my daughter's C-max 1.8tdci with "history" of timing and wet belt done has snapped or displaced the main belt. I was going to look at a 10reg, but got an estimate for cam belt and chain conversion like you showed us, and it was £850-1k.... car is on 84 but was gonna get it done... not getting the car now. What do you think of C-max 2.0tdci engine, that's a cheaper, simpler belt change?
A very helpful and informative video - I am just starting the wet belt on my Transit Connect so a big thank you. One area that I don’t currently understand is the damage that appears to occur when these belts break (happily to date, I have no experience of this although my van has done 125k). I had assumed that given the belt connects the crank to the high pressure fuel pump (and assuming the dry belt is ok) all that happens when the wet bet breaks is that the vehicle stops due to fuel starvation. I am obviously missing something - to generate the damage to valves, guides and pistons surely the dry belt has to break as well?
Solved my silly question - obviously the high pressure pump is the connection point to the camshaft from the crankshaft via the wet belt - anyway thanks for the vid.
Awesome video!!!!! Please keep making videos it help us a lot!!!! Thanks
Brilliant job you make it look easy.just wondering is it a wet belt or chain in my 2016 ford transit custom 2.0 diesel 130bhp.Any advice would be greatly appreciated cheers.
hello alan, how long is the timing pin, I bought the timing lock kit and there are 3 in the kit and I don't know which of them are for a ford mondeo 1.8 tdci 125 hp, I'm interested in the size of the pin that enters the engine block, thank you
Spot on Alan. Top class mechanic.
Had my wet belt snap the other week. Had a busy few days sorting the engine and fitting new belts etc. Now just need to get the timing back to normal. I am guessing inserting the locking pin in the block will work exactly the same if I turn the engine till it buts up against it and obviously use the cam locking plate as normal? Cheers
Brilliant video.. thanks.. is it possible to change a vauxhall wet belt on the peugot designed engine to a chain? I believe there have been probs with GM wet belt of belt degradation.. thanks
Hi can you tell me it the wet belt snaps is the damage catastrophic. Mine has snapped. But the cambelt is ok. Thanks
Hi, is there any problem if i take of the belt tensioner to see if is chain or belt? Can i put it back if is chain and start the car after check or what i should do?
yes you can unbolt the tensioner and remove it..the timing will stay as it is...once you've looked at it then just screw it back in and thats it
@@alan4x thank you very much bro
Thank you very much for the video... and I have a question. how can I know it is I have a chain where belt on my Ford cmax year 2009 1.8 diesel..
This is a good video, with only one failing.
The third (3rd) engine lock off tool, is missing.
This goes on to the flywheel where the starter motor goes.
This then stops anyone then "as you said" bending the crank shaft aliening tool to what is NOT a locking pin.
It is just an aliening tool.
You need the flywheel locked to prevent this happening.
So, there is no need for as you did to use a pair of mole grips to re aliening the crankshaft, As, it wouldn't have moved.
Other than this.
Great video thanks for making it.
Well done Alan, been putting off my mates connect ,been a great help.
Excellent video, would not have done it without the information in your video, thank you
your welcome, glad be be of help
That video was really helpful 👍i need to replace the head gasket on my son 230l ford transit connect 2005- do you have a video to help with this,
I was looking for timing marks before removing the head and now see what to do thanks to your wet belt video.👍steve spain
hi steve, i don't have any information on removing the head but it should be straight forward, the timing is the most complicated part
Hello good, I have the same engine, but it is supposed to have a lower chain.
Can it be detected if it has a chain or belt by difference in noise in the motor? Does it sound different depending on whether you have an oil-bathed chain or belt? Thanks. Because otherwise how could you know without having to drop the entire distribution?
All the best
Hi mate my 12 plate wet belt snap what advise woukd u give me on do I replace engine or get the engine fix I need its for my son
Ok my daughter's C-max 1.8tdci snapped the camshaft in 3, we assumed due to wet belt failure, I've pulled the engine to see for myself. The normal cambelt had snapped, stripping some of the teeth. The wet belt and tensioner appear in good condition. So I am at a loss what else could have caused the failure.
If i just want to change de pulley crank seal do I need timing tools ? If the pulley is out ,the timing will be damaged? I saw your video now and I need to know by tomorrow if i need timing tools...THANKs!!!
no you don't need any timing pins....just unbolt the crank pulley bolt, replace the seal and refit pulley and bolt..the timing will not be disturbed
Thank you very much, my logic was good but always it is better to ask somebody who 's done it hundreds times.
"Nice an' tight" is a Standard British Torque spec. 😆 Srsly tho, great video mate, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us!
Alan. What would your suggestion be for the Transit Connect 1.8tdci T200 EGR valve/manifold. Replace or clean out? Most garages i know of replace the entire manifold with EGR valve but would that be because they find it too time consuming to clean out original EGR valve inlet manifold ?
They also have EGR Valve Lift pin issues as i understand it with the EGR pin fitted with a tiny roller bearing at each end. ?
the egr used to be sold with the manifold but you don't change the manifold.....best thing you can do is with ignition off disconnect the multi plug from the egr valve and tape it up....as long as the flap in in the manifold is closed the engine will now run perfectly fine and no engine management lights should come on
@@alan4xhandy tip that cheers mate, blanked mine off 2yr ago but now light keeps coming on.
Hi Alan hope your well I have been doing the wet belt on the mk4 Mondeo today I had two problems
the first we locked the cams with the steel bar my mate held the fly wheel with a pry bar but when i tried to get the big pully off it turned the pully with the bolt but. He said the fly wheel did not turn so would This caused
any damage and also when we turned the fuel pump pully to tight it up it moved a bit one way then another would this do any damage i have been watching your video but these are the only problems i have had could please let me no as its worrying me thanks