ford mondeo/peugeot expert 2litre hdi timing belt replacement
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- Опубліковано 23 гру 2016
- The ford mondeo and peugeot expert vans between 2007 and 2014 fitted with a 2 litre hdi diesel engine.
In this video i will show you how to replace the timing belt. - Авто та транспорт
Hey Alan, First time i've come across you on here. I'll attempt most of my own repairs but cambelts always scare the life out of me due to the consequences if they're not done right. Just watched this video and you've explained it so clearly and made it look so easy that i'm quite confident i've been worrying about nothing. Its at least made me want to have a go at doing the Mondeo myself. Thanks for the great tutorial.
Just done the timing belt on my 2007 expert tepee van with 165k using nothing but this video for reference, went out yesterday after lunch on the driveway and bashed it in by 8pm, cheers for the clear and easy instructions 👍
thanks, glad it went well
I just want to thank you, Alan. Top man. Did this yesterday on my S-Max. Your video gave me the confidence to do it my self and saved me a lot of money. Love your channel. Cheers from Sweden.
Many thanks for the video Alan. Watched your video a few times before doing my timing belt and water pump on my 2014 2.2TDCI SMax. One very suttle difference my idler tensioner was held in with a E14 Star bolt and needed a spanner not socket to remove as engine mount restricted space. Great videos mate.
Great video, extremely helpful so thanks for posting. Completed the job today on a 2009 Mondeo. I personally found it much easier to remove the O/S engine mount and supported the engine with a jack. This gave good access to all the various components and only too 5 mins to take off. I also had to remove the auxiliary belt tensioner to remove the bottom cover.The crank bolt was very difficult to remove - an air impact gun wouldn't touch it. Putting the rod through the casting into the flywheel allowed me to get the crank bolt out with a breaker bar.
Hi Alan just want to say thanks for the video, just did the belt on my Mondeo and all went smoothly thanks to your video. Keep up the good work👍👍👍
Top job mate.....best cambelt tutorial i have seen well done,think i might have a go on my own car after watching this,cheers pal.
cheers
Done my 2.0tdci focus today following this tutorial. Must say having engine inside the car makes it slightly more difficult. Good tutorial
Many thanks for the video Alan - I just completed the timing and aux belt replacement on a 2007 MK4 2.0 TDCi. I ended up using a suitably sized allan key gaffer taped to some dowel for my crank timing pin, other than that followed this step by step.
I've just done the cam belt for my 2008 ford focus tdci following this video. 5 stars mate thanks for a brilliant video. keep it up!!
Well done. Great video. Much simpler than I thought.
Great instrction, triggered and saved me €900 by DIY on my S-max!! Thanks! Good system with the extra space around the crank schaft sprocket key to divide the tension.
Did you have done this in garage or outside house ?
Thanks very much, alot of people trying to complicate this stuff online, this is a great straight to the point no nonsense video! 👍
nice clear explanation, that's all anyone needs , cheers Alan.
People like you are lifesavers :) Thank you very much for this very nice video!
That is a very very good video tutorial. Thanks a lot for the job. It seems more easy now. I'll try to do this in a few months.
Well I'll be damned, it worked perfect! Pins slipped in no problem at all after half a dozen manual rotations. You the man Alan!!
You the
Alan, great tutorial and very well explained.
I'm going to attempt my Peugeot Expert cam belt this month. I don't have an air gun (but may see if I i can borrow one). Fingers crossed it goes to plan.
I'll post to let you know how I get on.
The most informative video I've seen yet. Many thanks....
How did you get on?
Thanks allot, saved allot of time watching your video up front, very good.
Very detailed tutorial dude keep it up! Tony from Maidstone Kent
You make this look really easy. Good job.
That was a great description of the Job, I have to do the Belt in my 136hp Peugeot 307 hdi upgrade model...... Just checked, Its the same engine, Many thanks for the video, We were going to sell it before it was due to be changed as I thought it was a big Job, but it looks like an easy day job.
great tutorial. thanks for taking the effort to explain it clearly.
thanks
I am a retired engineer, this looks like an excellent opportunity to use the old Trick of slicing the cambelt through its centre while it is running before you start work. I am not advocating that anyone does this but I would be able to do it. I've done it before as I am a proper Mr.😉😁
Many thanks Allan' Invaluable guide for my 2010 focus TDCI 2 ltr. Your bloods worth bottling.
sorted, i used a renault locking pin in cam pulley and belt went on straight away as you demonstrated working from cam down no issues at all.havnt done one before took couple hours to complete..great help many thanks.
thats great, glad it worked well for you, thanks for the feedback
thank you alan well documented and was very helpful. and your information on the wet belts on the 1.8 diesel was very informative too great for future reference.. kind regards terry.
Alan! many thanks for a great video, it helped me a lot when I yesterday changed the timing belt/water pump etc on my MK4 2009 Mondeo 2.2 tdci. It wasn't exactly the same on my 2.2 tdci, the locking hole for the cam shaft sprocket is placed at 7 o'clock (not at 4 o'clock as the 2.0 tdci). Couldn't find a locking hole for the crank shaft/flywheel, so I had to make colour markings on the old belt at the cam shaft sprocket and the crank shaft sprocket and then transferred the colour positions to the new belt. Otherwise everything looked the same on my 2.2 tdci (Q4BA engine).
Hey, I have the same engine, the 2.2. And I've been looking for the flywheel hole for quite a while.
Could you please elaborate on the hole marking the old belt please? I'm not quite sure by your explanation above😊
did you have to lock the flywheel to get the pully bolt out doing it that way ??
Just done the cam belt on a MK4 Galaxy using this video. Much better than the Haynes book of lies! Thanks.
Haynes tells nothing about adjusting crankshaft sprocket to the left while you put belt on
Really good job 👍🏻 Thanks Alan
Top man..really helpful, many thanks bud.
A no nonsense guide.. very good
The crank locking pin would be best left in until the crank pulley bolt is tight. Otherwise the loose key in the cam belt sprocket will will move with the crank while tightening the bolt, putting it slightly out-a-time. I could not access my crank locking hole so I got 2 small drill shanks and put them each side of the key to wedge the sprocket in the centre and to assure it stayed in the middle while doing up the big bolt. Mine is the automatic and I had to use an oil filter strap and a long bar and lots of language to get it undone in the first place. Hopefully the gun will be enough to do it up again but it must be tight as the friction is all that holds the sprocket in the correct position. And my drill shanks of course, 2X 1mm drills was enough in my case. At 100K miles the belt looked fine with the first tiny signs of wear showing on some teeth. A little play in the water pump. I had to heat the pulley to get it off as well.
I have watched a number of videos on changing the cambelt on this engine. What is absolutely critical is you pre tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with the locking pins still in position. This will then lock the crankshaft sprocket with the the woodruff key in the centre of the slot. I was turning the engine over without the crank pulley fitted and after two revolutions the crank pin and camshaft pin did not align. Of course the cam pulley moved and the woodruff key was no longer central in the slot, it was at one side. Moving the flywheel slightly with a screwdriver on the starter teeth re-aligned everything, both pins fitted and the woodruff key was again in the middle of the slot. So you must pre tighten the crank pulley, to lock the crank sprocket, before removing the pins. Then timing will be bang on.
Followed the video for my 2013 s-max. Sorry Alan I was going to bring the car to you but you made it too easy so I saved myself a bundle. 😀 three hours from start to finish and that includes rewatching the video a bunch of times and finding the flippin' rad drain plug.
Excellent video as ever. Thanks so much.
Great video.....showing all the important things 🙂thanks
😊
The crankshaft pully can sometime be really tough to move. If you have to start knocking it and prizing it about, the reluctor disc can easily be damaged, but still look intact. They can be picked up for about £20 and well worth replacing as a matter of course.
Very practical video Alan
thanks robert
+1 Brilliant video. I've never liked the idea of buying a car/vehicle with a belt - more expense, more faff, and sometimes the risk of a snapped belt - catastrophe; but at least these last a good long while. 125,000 - that's many years for me.
@@alanjm1234 This seems to be more common with newer produce. Older vehicles - not uncommon for the chain to last the lifetime of the vehicle in question.
Some Volvo engines, the Merc 190E, quite a lot of Japanese stuff - hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles on the OEM chain.
Assuming a chain hasn't 'let go' they're not hard to swap - link new to old and pull it round.
Apart from the crappy engineering in some 'modern' chains, there is no cause for them to break - it's a circular loading, driving the cams off the crank etc. We could say the same of belts - but what they're made out of makes them inherently weaker than chains - which are steel. Also, chains tend to run through/be lubed by engine oil which aids longevity; belts obviously don't lend themselves to that; and been mounted on the outside of an engine can open them up to all sorts of contamination, debris, especially of a cover isn't fitted correctly, is left off, or is of a poor design.
'Safe' and 'Unsafe' engines another factor which is worth attention before settling on a purchase decision. The marks out the engine design as featuring a buffer in the event of a belt/chain failure - do the pistons/valves meet each other etc.
Best possible scenario - a 'safe' engine, with chain, and a well designed chain made from decent quality, appropriately processed steel.
Also wondering if I should take the top cover of after a couple of days to check the tensioner pointer hasn't moved, when I first put it on I had to adjust it a few times before it settled down on the notch permanently...Id adjust it, turn the crank a few times and the pointer moved, adjust again, turn crank (by hand) pointer moved,adjust a bit more and voila it stayed on the notch...does the timing belt"wear in" and stretch a bit? or is it rock solid now? cheers
Brilliant video, thanks for making the effort
Thanks Al, just did a Fiat Cudo and needed a little refresher on the belt tensioner setup.
Excellent!
Thanks for this. It saved me a ton of money. Cheers!
how much would it cost in a garage?
@@AC-db4ek somewhere around 30,000 Norwegian kroners, conservatively. It could easily be more though.
@@ArktikosAdventures excuse me but 30000 kroners are 2850 euros. I think you made a mistake. This job in no more than 300 euros.
@@AC-db4ek Nope, that is the correct estimate. Here in Norway it is EXTREMELY expensive to get car work done hence the reason everyone tries to got to Sweden to get work done. I had my front shocks done and it cost 25000. All the main bushings. 13000. It's insane here. But, Everyone has a living wage here. Very few poor people. That is the price. You want cheap stuff? Expect poor people. Want a fair society? Expect to pay more. Cheers!
Really helpful video thanks. Is it ok to support the engine from under a plastic sump? (MK3 focus)
hi allan cracking video many thanks, i have a quick question could i get away with not locking the flywheel , as starter motor will be a pig to get out, and just mark up crankshaft position with tipex on crank and belt and engine and obviously pin the cam shaft, also mark up the cam shaft, thanks again for all your help with this content
thanks for the tip Alan,, make me to change my cambelt last sunday,, no problem at all :)
cheers
great job . I have done everything myself thank you , i have a small question if you have done maybe how to replace the anti roll bar busch fronttw ford mondeo mk4
K and D spanners, I got a full set from 6mm to 32mm when I was a teenager. I wish I still had the plastic draw liner tray they came in.
La polea de distribucion se cambia por años (antiquedad) o por los kilometros ? ?
Great video! Is the 2.0 hdi RHR 136hp the same as you showed? I need to replace oil pomp chain...
Very good video, thank you.
Great video as always, thanks Alan. When using the impact wrench to remove the crank shaft bolt should the engine be free to turn? (i.e. not in gear) 2.0TDCi 140 BA7
Hi any many thanks for all the nice and entertaining videos. Iam going to do mine on a mondeo 2011 2.0tdci but iam wondering if the harmonic balancer need alignment or its like this engine 🤔.
Great video as ever, and fully get how working on an engine out the car makes sense from a video POV. How much tougher is it to actually do this in situ!? CAn you get to what you need to easy enough...?
Great video.
With your vast experience with the mondeo mk4 what mileage would you personally recommend to change the cambelt, pulleys and water pump?
Keep up the great work 👍
hi i found on both engines i have. whilst the cam hole pin goes in perfect the crank is out slightly. same on both engines. the crank location is a recessed square in the flywheel. shud this be locked 1st then the cam? i did it the other way around. nothing locks up.
I love This video ....
I have one question . I have smax 2011 poweshift 2.0 tdci.... flywheel have to lock pins smalił and Big one...everything is spot on in my car with smali hole.... it is all right?
Hi Alan, another great video. You have a natural gift for teaching and certain you would be an asset at any educational establishment. I have found most of your videos to be very informative and engaging. In reference to the cam belt change you did on the 2.0l engine, is the procedure the same fore the 2.2.?
Did you find out if it's the same?
Hello, thank you!
What should be the moment in Nm for the water pump?
You are legend mate. Thanks alot
Doing my 2.2tdci at the moment and this vídeo explains it all.
But that "fear" is always present doing this job hehe
lol, yes i know exactly what you mean
Somehow,i can't get the woodruff key (i think this is the correct name) to be center on the crankshaft sprocket,is this an issue Alan?
André Castro
Hi. The woodruff key does not have to be dead centre in the elongated slot of the crank sprocket.
As long as the woodruff key is not butted hard up against either side of the sprocket. So if you have a small gap one side and a larger gap the other side that is perfectly fine
Many thanks Alan,your're a life savior!
Keep the excelent work!
@@alan4x is it possible for the crankshaft pulley to wobble after all the things back in place?
Hi Alan, great video as always, question... if the woodruff key isn’t butted to the right before releasing the tensioner would this cause the timing to be slightly off? Reason I ask is I had my timing belt done by a garage as it was mid winter and I couldn’t be bothered freezing my bollocks off. When I picked the car up after it hard started and chugged at idle for about 20 seconds then drove fine. It was fine before it went in so I’m convinced they’ve forgotten that crucial woodruff key alignment. Any ideas?
Thanks! It was very useful
Great video Allan.
Two questions.
1/. I understand the need to replace the water pump as it's easy t I do with everything out.
2/.Do you also suggest we change the tensioner, idler pulley and other pulleys as well?
3/. Also you say to turn the engine over two revolutions. You don't show this so I assume to mark a point on the camshaft and watch it turn all around twice in a clockwise direction?
I've a Ford Grand c-max 1.6 tdci 2012 I'm looking to do the same job but can't locate the crankshaft locking pin hole! Its not where ii used to be on the earlier 1.6 hdi peugoet engines!
Any help would be great!
Great video helped me out a lot, that pin for the crank is an arse to get to, I didn’t have a rod so I took the air box out and took the starter off and you can see the hole clearly and get a bolt in. As mentioned without an airgun I could see the crank bolt being a pain in the arse due to the locktite on the bolt.
its best to heat the crank bolt for 4-5 mins with a hot air gun to loosen the locktite, thew bolt will come out much easier
did you lock the flywheel up to get that pully bolt out ,heat and air gun dosnt touch mine .
@@riskfreesolutionsforbusinessdid you manage to get the bolt out? If so how?
Hi Alan i have changed the timing belt and water pump as instructed in your video and the step by step instructions were perfect i only had an issue were i over tensioned the tensioner pulley so i re adjusted it by backing it off with the 6mm allen tool and nipping the bolt back up when it was in the middle of the pointers, i have no warning lights on and the car drives just the same with no noises. Was it ok to do this a with the tensioner and i checked the bottom pulley and it was sat in the middle of the woodruf key.? thanks
yes if you don't get the tension right first time it is perfectly fine to loosen adjuster and readjust,,, good job
Fantastic video. Super clear explanation and demonstration. Thanks Alan and Merry Christmas! One question though that you might be able to answer, for the Powershift transmission, is the same crank locking procedure used? Cheers
merry xmas to you too,
i have had nothing to do with those transmissions so i can't really say but i would look for the hole where the crank tool fits in and if it is there i would fit the bar and see if it locks the crank in the right position, hope this helps
Yes the pin locks the power shift drive plate in exactly the same way is does the duel mass flywheel on a manual
Hey Alan, greetinx from down under. I have a 2013 Mk4 with oil in the coolant and suspect a leaky engine oil cooler. Any ideas on best way to extract it, given the very limited space/access?
Hi Alan, is it essential that the woodruff key is centred. Mine isn’t but I’m prepared to redo the belt if needed. What can happen if it’s not centred? Thanks.
Quite nicely laid out fr doing this job I must say. uch better than the old VW from passats skodas volvos and mitsubishis.
Fantastic video allan. I am preparing to change my cars belt over xmas. As part of a big service. I have a 2013 focus 2.0tdci tit x estate my engine is the 163. Dw10c. Is my proceedure the same as this video. I bought haynes nanual for mk3 focus but wierdly it doesnt cover the 2.0 so i bought a kuga manual that covers my engine
when trying get the cam pully bolt out for the first time should car be in gear or neutral?
Nice video! Will it apply to my 2007 ford s-max 1.8 duratorq tdci?
used air gun to get pully bolt out with NO LUCK and heated it first . ive got THE locking kit but looking at it im thinking well if alan says he wouldnt trust the 8ml pin to hold the flywheel i dont think i trust the flywheel locker either it just locks one tooth?peg on the fly wheel. with all the force i recon its going to take move that pully bolt. so am wondering if i put car in gear foot on brake do it that way and then lock the engine up after bolt is out . IS this asking for TROUBLE ???also am thinking that way wont have to move starter motor az its a pain in the volvo v70 p3 rdisign .
Very well explained video well done
Alan, do you know if this process is the same for the 2.2 of the same generation?
Hi Alan! What if my position arrow going out from the cut out while engine running
Hey Alan, great content!
thanks clinton
Hi
Have you got a cambelt change video on a 2017 1.5D ford fiesta.
Hi Alan how do you get the timing back If the belt snaps on one of these. Thanks 👍
Iv had this car recently and it over heated on way from work and making a loud engine noise iv brought a cambelt water pump and thermostat could this be the right fix?
When the engine is in the car, how do I insert the crank locking tool into the flywheel?
I can see the back of engine attached to the bell housing , that goes straight into the (auto) transmission.
In this scenario, is there another trick to insert the locking tool?
Would this be the same as the 2 litre hdi engine in my mk1 Peugeot E7 taxi on a 2001 plate (no longer a taxi)?
Hi great tutorial I'm looking into doing mine on ford smax 2.0 tdci 2007. Am I right thinking it's exactly the same engine thanks
i thinking your engine is similar but not quite the same.. i believe the crank sprocket on your engine has no adjustment
Super video,TOP !!
Gracias 🙂 señor ALAN
Hey! Is this the same engine as the 2.0 TDCI (KLBA) ? Like, the procedure is the same?
brilliant video
Hi Alan, great video, very informative, I have a 2.0 diesel Kuga 2008, am i correct that this is the same engine as the mondeo? Not found any tutorials for the Kuga
hi, yes it will be the mondeo 2l tdci peugeot engine...in fact the kuga is a mondeo with a different shape body
Hi Alan
Thanks for the video, I'm going to attempt this job on my 2007 Dispatch van. Looks like no special tools needed and I love that tensioner with built in indicator, what a great invention 🤣
Can i just use two 8mm bolts? And does the starter motor need to come off for the crank locker?
Thanks
Hi Alan, thanks for this video! I have a channel myself, and I know what effort it takes. It demistifies ford cambelts for me. Can I just ask something to understand process completely? After fitting new belt and doing 2 revolutions - if locking pins don't match, how do you adjust it? Many thanks :)
Great tutorial
Hi Alan,
This tutorial is brilliant and very informative, there aren't many videos around like this.
I'm hoping you could potentially confirm the process is similar for a 2011 Ford Kuga 2.0 163 engine? (It has the Peugeot logos on the fuel filter housing).
I don't suppose you know how much coolant is required roughly in these engines to refill them once the water pump etc has been changed, and is the process the same with the piece of bent bonnet rod on these where it can be used to lock the flywheel without removing the starter?
Thanks very much.
it will be the same as the kuga or very similar, not sure about crank pin location but would assume it is in the same place
Great video 👍👍
very well explained, tank you
Glad it was helpful!
Is this footage also for a Fiat Scudo 2.0 Diesel Multi-jet 2013? Thx.
Thanks for posting this video! How many hours of labour charge should I expect from an experienced mechanic for replacing the camshaft belt on the Mondeo 2.0 TDCi?
hi, probably 2-3 hours
Hi Alan, i am wanting to give this a go on my mondeo the step by step instructions are perfect and give me the confidence to undertake the job to save me a bit of money, can i ask at the end of the video you give the torque and angle settings for the crank shaft bolt is it crucial to torque the bolt and the degree? i was hoping to just use my cordless impact gun to remove and tighten a new bolt? Thanks also for the quality content you put out.
hi... i never torque the crank bolt....best thing is to gun it up as tight as your gun will do....the reason for this, there is a lot of thread lock on the bolt which makes it tight in the threads.. one thing...if you are using a gun to remove the crank bolt and it is tight and slow at unscrewing then the best thing is to heat the end of the bolt with a hot air gun for 4-6 minutes which will melt the thresdlock on the bolt threads and allow it to be removed easier.. you can see this done here at 5.24 mins ua-cam.com/video/ACXiKbkXhvM/v-deo.html
Thanks for the reply Alan just thought I would check if I have to torque any of the bolts up inc the waterpump bolts i will let you know how i get on im going to wait until the kids holidays I think just incase I do something wrong lol thanks again, Gary
Back together and running.....still very noisy though... think she's on her way out...oh well breathed a bit of extra life back into her...Thanks heaps for your help cheers