Great video Travis. Just wanted to mention that if you pour the entire contents of the packet into the first filter housing, it will mix into solution and fill the holding tank when the water is turned on. The syringe method is not necessary. Thanks for sharing the great instructional video!
He is working with a new and empty system. He forgot to mention to empty the reservoir tank. Also, to resale pressure from the tank line before injecting the 5ml or the line back pressure will push it back.
I just changed out all 5 filters on one of these units. It was a very long process for me and already i can think of MANY ways to make this chore MUCH easier and less time consuming and Safer. Perhaps it is because my set up is not the simple under the counter set up. I have my 50GPH unit in the basement feeding 2 drinking taps (kitchen + Bar) as well as 2 fridges (icemaker + taps). I also have 2 holding tanks. So my advice is for everyone who is in similar situation. Here are the issues you will face. Did you read the Cancer/infertility warning on the membrane label?? (it's a preservative for when the thing is in the warehouse - it needs to be flushed out good) Who wants that stuff getting anywhere close to all your separate taps/icemakers/tanks. Same goes for the black Charcoal residue that needs to be flushed out of the carbon filters. also keep in mind that the Membrane only filters about 100 ml/min (4oz) that's just about a trickle. And the Inline Carbon filter (the one on top of membrane) also has a fairly slow filtering speed (.5GPM). So my next time i will be flushing out all these units separately without having all the carbon dust/poisons possibly going to all parts of your water system. The quick connect makes this very simple to do. 1: The membrane holder comes right off and can be washed in sink (wash soap off good). Then hook supply line right up to membrane housing 'IN' side and hook Drain to other side and just let it run with your new membrane in there for 4,8,12,24 Hours?? what ever the manufacturer recommends. Flush out the poison right to drain. 2: Your 3 big hanging filters. Wash in sink with soap. hook supply to it where it normally goes. attach drain to the other end of those 3 filters. Run water for 15 Min approx. water should be nice and clear. 3: That last top in line carbon filter is a slow filter also. you can do same as #1 with membrane filter. Its a little trickier because it has 2 inlets on infeed (one would go to the tank for storage). But i'm sure it would be easy to figure that out. Maybe put the single screw in attachment temporarily on the 'IN' side and then attach FEED to it and let it run right into a sink. Let water flow through that for 15 min) So what you end up with is all your filters rinsed/safe/ready for use. if you want to do a system lines/tank cleaning you could do that still with no filters. follow the instruction on video for that. BUT drain system first. They missed that step in this video. Now just pop in all the filters and you can drink water right away. no concerns if there is any dirt/poisons lingering in your tanks/taps/fridges. Hope that helps someone out there.
Thanks, going to change mine in few days. So I was wondering what goes where:). Mine also has circulation pump, some valves and extra valve for drain i supose. Normaly that valve is closed, when system is working. But what its for and how to drain properly :)? Company who fitted, doesnt do that anymore, so I must figure it out myself 😄
When you add sanitizer to the line disconnected from the tank, you find no room for the sanitizer and it spilled out before line connected back into the tank. Need to let some water spill out of the hose, then put sanitizer in the line. Demo should be done with a working, pressurized system to show all steps needed. No need to sanitizre a new, empty RO unit.
Yeah, run your system with no filters and let all contaminants, including sediment, go in. I would do this only if I installed a supply prefilter (probably sediment + UVc) while the system is sanitizing.
Wouldn't you want to purge the air out the system as you fill it to ensure sanitizer gets everywhere it needs to go. I would alsodrain the expansion tank before putting it back together for saniizing.
YES! There's a different video about sanitizing your RO system on the "Gary the Water Guy" channel where he explicitly mentions this issue. He said you need to cut the drain line and insert another push-fit shutoff valve so you can trap the disinfectant in the system while carrying out the sanitization procedure. This seems like a big deal, so I'm surprised your comment is the only one I see pointing it out.
I'm guessing you can skip the syringe/tank line injection by just draining the tank before doing everything so that it fills back up with the sani system?
What/why am I sanitizing the system and then opening it to the elements in order to install the filters? I was always told to add the sanitation tablets (chlorine?) with the new filters and then flush the system twice.
One could easily create a bypass line with extra push-in connectors and a the approximate length of 1/4 tubing while the polishing post filter is removed during the sanitation procedure. I'm not sure that the polisher is really a filter like the prior stages. Rather it's more an aesthetic to add back in a pleasant taste. But performing the bypass tubing prevents any damage that the polisher was not expecting other than purified water.
Peroxide is not as effective for sanitizing as other solutions. However, It may work for you. I would try it then do a bacteria test. This will tell you if it is effective.
yeah, I noticed that too, so careful to wear gloves to not contaminate anything yet smears silicone on the filters...it could be no big deal but with a system that is removing impurities in the 4 and 5 micron level, it seems strange to introduce a foreign substance in an extremely large quantity relative to 4 or 5 micro amounts.
Question. Please need someone advice. TDS before system showing 230 after system TDS showing 20 to 30 is that ok to drink or what is the good TDS water to drink. Thanks
Do you have a drinking water faucet on your fridge? Run that during the draining process after the sanitizer is in the system. Fill up several glasses and you should be good to go.
Any video I've watched so far that teaches how to sanitize and change filters, seems like there is always something that is missed. Seeing this so frustrates me because I have new filters and sanitizer and I cant do anything with it!
why did you call him that ... he is providing us with adequate information that you and your lazy behind did not even bother to .... have some respect to his time that he shared with us.
@@adeeep I didn't call him anything. Your reading comprehensions sucks. I do this shit for a living and I'll say whatever the fuck I want. Time for some bacon and eggs!
I agree. It would be best to lube all the 'O' rings at once, then change gloves before touching any filters. He got silicon on the RO membrane filter; that would ruin it. They should do demo videos on actual working systems so you know you should REALLY handle everything.
Probably to keep their RO system running how it should. But I agree and feel your frustration. It's too freakin' complicated!! At a bare minimum change the 3 main filters every year or two... the other ones every 2-5 years depending how much you use it. A cheap TDS meter will help you. Get some water from the RO faucet and measure. If it's a number greater than 30, then time to change the membrane (stage 4) and the final filter (stage 5).
yep, i ran into that issue myself...easiest thing to do is leave the OLD one in place when sanitizing, THEN swap a new one once sanitizing is complete.
My RO system is not color coded I need to know how to hook up my membrane . On what side of the membrane is your draining hose😂 also need to know the hose that hook to the top of membrane so confuse thank you
Great video Travis. Just wanted to mention that if you pour the entire contents of the packet into the first filter housing, it will mix into solution and fill the holding tank when the water is turned on. The syringe method is not necessary. Thanks for sharing the great instructional video!
Would running sani-system through a new polishing filter damage it?
He is working with a new and empty system. He forgot to mention to empty the reservoir tank. Also, to resale pressure from the tank line before injecting the 5ml or the line back pressure will push it back.
I just changed out all 5 filters on one of these units. It was a very long process for me and already i can think of MANY ways to make this chore MUCH easier and less time consuming and Safer.
Perhaps it is because my set up is not the simple under the counter set up. I have my 50GPH unit in the basement feeding 2 drinking taps (kitchen + Bar) as well as 2 fridges (icemaker + taps). I also have 2 holding tanks. So my advice is for everyone who is in similar situation.
Here are the issues you will face. Did you read the Cancer/infertility warning on the membrane label?? (it's a preservative for when the thing is in the warehouse - it needs to be flushed out good) Who wants that stuff getting anywhere close to all your separate taps/icemakers/tanks. Same goes for the black Charcoal residue that needs to be flushed out of the carbon filters. also keep in mind that the Membrane only filters about 100 ml/min (4oz) that's just about a trickle. And the Inline Carbon filter (the one on top of membrane) also has a fairly slow filtering speed (.5GPM).
So my next time i will be flushing out all these units separately without having all the carbon dust/poisons possibly going to all parts of your water system.
The quick connect makes this very simple to do.
1: The membrane holder comes right off and can be washed in sink (wash soap off good). Then hook supply line right up to membrane housing 'IN' side and hook Drain to other side and just let it run with your new membrane in there for 4,8,12,24 Hours?? what ever the manufacturer recommends. Flush out the poison right to drain.
2: Your 3 big hanging filters. Wash in sink with soap. hook supply to it where it normally goes. attach drain to the other end of those 3 filters. Run water for 15 Min approx. water should be nice and clear.
3: That last top in line carbon filter is a slow filter also. you can do same as #1 with membrane filter. Its a little trickier because it has 2 inlets on infeed (one would go to the tank for storage). But i'm sure it would be easy to figure that out. Maybe put the single screw in attachment temporarily on the 'IN' side and then attach FEED to it and let it run right into a sink. Let water flow through that for 15 min)
So what you end up with is all your filters rinsed/safe/ready for use. if you want to do a system lines/tank cleaning you could do that still with no filters. follow the instruction on video for that. BUT drain system first. They missed that step in this video.
Now just pop in all the filters and you can drink water right away. no concerns if there is any dirt/poisons lingering in your tanks/taps/fridges.
Hope that helps someone out there.
Thanks, going to change mine in few days. So I was wondering what goes where:). Mine also has circulation pump, some valves and extra valve for drain i supose. Normaly that valve is closed, when system is working. But what its for and how to drain properly :)? Company who fitted, doesnt do that anymore, so I must figure it out myself 😄
Don't use channel lock pliers to remove the caps. Use a strap wrench to avoid damage.
Good job Travis! I also enjoyed your “pshhhhh” sound effects & your fancy coat ✌
Spat coffee out my nose when he made the noise for the faucet :D
Right!? 😄
That was AMAZING
6:55 I had to search for what you were talking about, so this is for the people that don't want to waste their time searching for it!
Shouldn’t the tank be emptied of water before you start?
First time I Have seen in a demonstration where the guy knows how to wrap teflon tape on a fitting.
When you add sanitizer to the line disconnected from the tank, you find no room for the sanitizer and it spilled out before line connected back into the tank. Need to let some water spill out of the hose, then put sanitizer in the line. Demo should be done with a working, pressurized system to show all steps needed. No need to sanitizre a new, empty RO unit.
i never done this ever...iv had an ro system for 4 years. Just change filters every year and membrane every 2.
Best video on the subject! Nice work!
Yeah, run your system with no filters and let all contaminants, including sediment, go in. I would do this only if I installed a supply prefilter (probably sediment + UVc) while the system is sanitizing.
thank you. I hope my RO system looks like yours. I'll service it today.
Wouldn't you want to purge the air out the system as you fill it to ensure sanitizer gets everywhere it needs to go. I would alsodrain the expansion tank before putting it back together for saniizing.
Jeeeezus! I will need to take a 3 day work vacation in order to master this process and account for the number of times that I will goof!
Haha my thoughts exactly
I just confused on the drain. Why this dude still connecting it during the disinfection process? Does the disinfectant flushed away in the drain?
YES! There's a different video about sanitizing your RO system on the "Gary the Water Guy" channel where he explicitly mentions this issue. He said you need to cut the drain line and insert another push-fit shutoff valve so you can trap the disinfectant in the system while carrying out the sanitization procedure. This seems like a big deal, so I'm surprised your comment is the only one I see pointing it out.
I'm guessing you can skip the syringe/tank line injection by just draining the tank before doing everything so that it fills back up with the sani system?
You can. We just like to make sure there is a good dose going into the tank. The tank usually where the sanitization is needed the most.
This is just the best video of all.
Great! So glad it was useful for you. Sometimes, we don't know! Your feedback is much appreciated.
Wonder why you have to let system rest during flushing of sanitizer?
What/why am I sanitizing the system and then opening it to the elements in order to install the filters?
I was always told to add the sanitation tablets (chlorine?) with the new filters and then flush the system twice.
Do you pre-empty the tank before shutting off the tank?
When you sanitize why not take out the post filter? Is all the sanitize solution going to be absorbed by the post filter?
Thought the same, he probably killed the postfilter
After sanitizing, you then replace the post filter. It is much easier to leave it in place than to reroute the flow without the filter.
One could easily create a bypass line with extra push-in connectors and a the approximate length of 1/4 tubing while the polishing post filter is removed during the sanitation procedure. I'm not sure that the polisher is really a filter like the prior stages. Rather it's more an aesthetic to add back in a pleasant taste. But performing the bypass tubing prevents any damage that the polisher was not expecting other than purified water.
Can I just use medical grade hydregen peroxide? I have the 3% solution. If so how much would be best? cheers 🙂
Peroxide is not as effective for sanitizing as other solutions. However, It may work for you. I would try it then do a bacteria test. This will tell you if it is effective.
Just replaced my filters and now it sounds like my tank is farting every 15 min. What happened?
It looks all so easy on brand new parts...
mine has some sort of flushing valve. is that necessary or should I just replace the membrane and filters?
Yes. Always replace the filters annually and the membrane every few years.
the 2 filter are same carbon filter??
Verry well explained, pro 👍
so it’s ok to get the silicone from the seals on the membrane when you are replacing that?
yeah, I noticed that too, so careful to wear gloves to not contaminate anything yet smears silicone on the filters...it could be no big deal but with a system that is removing impurities in the 4 and 5 micron level, it seems strange to introduce a foreign substance in an extremely large quantity relative to 4 or 5 micro amounts.
Thank you for the knowledge
Question. Please need someone advice. TDS before system showing 230 after system TDS showing 20 to 30 is that ok to drink or what is the good TDS water to drink. Thanks
Yeah. 20 to 30 is good. That's also around a 90 percent rejection rate from your incoming water so you system is working well.
But what if I have a line from the RO to the fridge? How do I sani that line as well. 😬
Do you have a drinking water faucet on your fridge? Run that during the draining process after the sanitizer is in the system. Fill up several glasses and you should be good to go.
@@uswatersystems cool, thanks.
@@uswatersystems what if my fridge had a filter and ice dispenser?
The link you provide to buy the necessary parts is broken. It goes to a page that says, "oops."
Fixed :)
well explained ... thx a lot ...........................
I've changed all 5 filters and stil can only get 8 to 9 oz only at a time. What else do I need to do
Sounds like your tank pre pressurization may be too high, so the system can't push more into the tank
Any video I've watched so far that teaches how to sanitize and change filters, seems like there is always something that is missed. Seeing this so frustrates me because I have new filters and sanitizer and I cant do anything with it!
Peroxide is the best solution for sanitizing.
Where can I get one of those fancy jackets
Ha ha! The Jacket will give you the inner strength to get through this 101 step process.
I don't like getting the silicone grease all over the housings and brackets like this guy did. Sloppy, sloppy, sloppy.
why did you call him that ... he is providing us with adequate information that you and your lazy behind did not even bother to .... have some respect to his time that he shared with us.
@@adeeep I didn't call him anything. Your reading comprehensions sucks. I do this shit for a living and I'll say whatever the fuck I want. Time for some bacon and eggs!
I agree. It would be best to lube all the 'O' rings at once, then change gloves before touching any filters. He got silicon on the RO membrane filter; that would ruin it. They should do demo videos on actual working systems so you know you should REALLY handle everything.
@@Atouk You two should have a race to see which person can get through this 1000 step cleaning process. My money is on Moo ha mudd. USA, USA, USA!
@@artnwityr I'm retired. He can have it all.
why no vido if out the tank
hehe at 6:55!
+hajke phu "psshhhh"
oc
Jesus. Why does anyone do this. This is soooooo many steps.
Probably to keep their RO system running how it should. But I agree and feel your frustration. It's too freakin' complicated!! At a bare minimum change the 3 main filters every year or two... the other ones every 2-5 years depending how much you use it. A cheap TDS meter will help you. Get some water from the RO faucet and measure. If it's a number greater than 30, then time to change the membrane (stage 4) and the final filter (stage 5).
Horrible instructions...you never explained how to bypass the "post Silecte" filter!
yep, i ran into that issue myself...easiest thing to do is leave the OLD one in place when sanitizing, THEN swap a new one once sanitizing is complete.
Another one who does not show how to pressurize the tank ( 5-7 psi ) afterwards !!!
How do you do it??
My RO system is not color coded I need to know how to hook up my membrane . On what side of the membrane is your draining hose😂 also need to know the hose that hook to the top of membrane so confuse thank you