Bravo! A true genuine guru truly openly shares his workflow and secret of professional editing step-by-step (express). Many others tutorials out there just touch the surface and ignored many of their workflows create lots of problems such as none usable noises...
I just tried your full workflow and i must say its awsome. I also bought the plugins for denoise and straightening the 360. They are great. Many thanks!
Couple of weeks ago i have made a 360 aerial photo of the city of Amersfoort in The Netherlands. This evening i recognized quite some noise. I have used the denoise plugin and recovered some details and it looks much cleaner. Check the difference: kuula.co/post/7qdhX (new) kuula.co/post/7qcvS (oud, with more noise). I made the 360's with the Mavic Air. I have better drones such as the Phantom 4 Pro and the Inspire 2 but for a small drone like the mavic air this is not bad quality.
Great tutorial, i take images for Google street view as a hobby, after 4 million views, i realised my images doesn’t look professional and not sharp. This would improve my photos and im going to upgrade to a Insta360 one R which does RAW. Thanks and Subbed!
Thanks for another great tutorial. Ever since I saw your pictures I was always curious to know how you made them look so great, so thanks for the info. What do you think about the xphase pro? Do you think it is wort getting it?
Awww thanks! I don't know anything about the Xphase. Sound too good to be true. I think Mic Ty is a better person to ask. He did extended testing and lots of samples to show.
Great tutorial. Unfortunately I have been using Affinity Photo to edit my 360 photos and the results is "seamless" without needing healing brush, I can't do that in PS, the layer is still destructive
Great tutorial, It would be not better to do the aberration chromatic corrections before stitch ? Usually when I shot with DSLR I use Camera Raw on the images and then stitch then, just for the lens corrections such Aberration chromatic sharpen and etc.
Thanks Hugh, another great video to raise my level of photography. Just when I need it, plenty of amateur pictures on my channel, but that will change soon. Thanks to you. :)
really thanks for the extra tip.. i have been struggling to find an easier solution to this as my camera's gyro is behaving odd ... thanks for the tip. really helpful..
Thanks Hugh, all worked well with the exception of the tripod removal. After copying to new layer and spot healing after I select merge down I get an error message of 'Could not edit the texture(s) directly. Please open the texture(s) and choose an editable target layer to proceed'. With two option buttons 'Continue' which just takes me back and 'Change texture target' which opens project in another tab. Thanks...
Hugh help! Has this 'edge aware' feature been removed from Adobe Camera Raw 2024? Trying to edit dng files from Insta360 X4 and the seam line is bad even when just adjusting only Highlights and Shadows?
@@hughhou thanks Hugh, it seems to have been removed 🤷🏻♂️ Found this video because I was looking for a solution, thought it might have had something to do with X4 exif data but don’t think it is. Saw your other comment, thanks!
@@hughhou I’ve found out that the problem lies with Insta360 not including ‘gpano’ metadata when the dng is stitched from Studio, however it does with stitched jpgs. I manually added the gpano metadata to the dng (which is a pain) but the it worked, I adjusted all the colours etc and no seam. Surely it can’t be difficult for Insta360 to add this to Studio for dng exports? I’ve messaged them, but I’m sure they’ll listen to you more! This gpano metadata is in QooCam dng exports, hence why I don’t have the same problem with their dngs.
Hi Hugh, first off hats off to your tutorials, they're brilliant! I've watched the tutorial and must be missing something: I Stitch the HDR from the insta pro 2 in Stitcher. then I open the DNG in photoshop Camera Raw (latest version), make adjustments and shit + open. when I save the image as Tiff, I am still getting the seams. Any idea which step I might be missing or why this is?
Did they remove Edge Aware from the latest version? It looks like they removed almost all support for 360 panoramas, and when I load an Equirectangular RAW image from my Insta360 x4 and try to edit it in CameraRAW it has the seam. It is not doing edge aware as far as I can tell.
I'm gonna start by saying that I love what you're doing and it's inspiring me to take to the sky with it. The issue I'm running into is that the way the the program shoots the 360 image doesn't seem to mesh with how adobe sees them because whenever I generate a 360 view in Photoshop it's warped really bad around the edges. I'm really new to this but if I do it want to do it right so let me know if you have any advice otherwise I'll just keep an eye on the channel and hope that you address it in the future.
Yes, it's strange, when I view the image before I upload the 360 looks normal but in photoshop it almost seems like it's the wrong size or shape because when I generate a 3D from the project it does make it spherical but it only seems like the center of the image is good but all the of the edges distort. Just so you know what I'm working with I have both an inspire 2 with X5s and I have a mavic 2 pro. I run a 2017 macbook and I have the full Adobe suite. When I watch the drone take the images in Litchi it almost takes the images in diagnol cascading rows instead of vertical, I'm not sure if that's part of the problem. I'd like to learn the angles to shoot 360s manually which will give me the ability to shoot them in hdr as well 🤷🏼♂️
Great tuto, how do end up working with a "flat" image from a dual fisheye plugin taken with a Z1, instead of the dual spherical _HDR from the camera? thx
I'd minimalize the noise/sharpen in RAW edit (turn detail setting to lowest too) and duplicate layer/smart sharpen instead... then make it a luminosity layer.. flatten/save... MHO :)
@@hughhou I found this answer in a Topic on the subject... When you start using that method You'll see the difference in the control you have. I'm guessing you probably do this when trying new things but max/min each setting to better see how thy work. I think big issue is "over sharpening". cheers! qr.ae/T9Rtzi
I recently used my drone to take shots to form 360-degree panoramas. I watched Mr. Hou's video on the function of Camera Raw 11.4 to avoid stitch line resulting from editing the panorama with Camera Raw. I opened my panorama, in tiff format, in Adobe Bridge, which then enables opening it as smart object in Photoshop, that is, through Camera Raw. Unfortunately, after editing in Camera Raw and opening it as object, a vertical stitch line still appears in the middle, as can be seen by the lens filter -- offset. Could anyone please suggest any reason why the Camera Raw fails to avoid the stitch line now?
merging down my layer for tripod removal does not work. Using PS v21; any idea what I am doing wrong? If I merge the layers together the initial layer is no more the 3D layer and the option to export as panorama is gone.
If you have PTGui - I will. For sure stitch first even without PTGui. Kandao is making the software support DNG very soon - so no more jumping tho hoops or PTGui workflow. For now, yes, PTGui get you the best result - the auto workflow just won't work for anything closer than 2 meters - even I saw some reviewers get good result - I mean I shoot so many and has so many experience on this camera and I never get good auto result lol.
Thanks once gain for a very good tutorial. so this happens automatically? does it recognize a panoramic photo? I am puzzled on how does it now to make edges blend or not. note that on 15:11 you can work non-destructively if you go inside the panorama, create a blank layer, save, go back, now you can work right on the panormaic layer, use the healing brush/clone or whatever and it will be saved on the blank layer inside....
Hello Hugh... I've somewhat backed away from using my One X and Misphere for virtual tours ever since I discovered the Canon 5d mark IV. As you know, a DSLR workflow is more time consuming but much better quality. Do you shoot with a DSLR camera? I've searched through your videos but can't find anything that might help me optimize or change my current workflow. I have been using Enfuse to merge bracketed images and PTGui for stitching, but it uses up gigs of hard drive space, especially when I'm including drone footage. It's tempting to go back to a 360 camera to speed up the process, but can't justify buying something like the Insta Pro 2 or similar. Appreciate any suggestions. Roy
Check the new Qoocam 8K? It reach DLSR quality now: ua-cam.com/video/cyTnkcteb7M/v-deo.html - I do shoot with DSLR - I should make my tutorial soon but this is part of it actually.
Hi Hugh, love your videos! 360vr is sometimes a complicated topic, but thanx of you I understand the most of it! Your are a 360guru! I have a question: When I take a bracket series of 3 photos in RAW with my Insta one X ( EV-2, EV 0 and EV+2 ) and I stich them in instastudio 2019 and then I merge them to HDR in Lightroom I get a sort of ghosting a the edges. Has this phenomenon to do with the flowstate stabilisation in the Insta One X or with the automatic stabilisation in insta360 studio? When I stitch my fisheye photos from the insta360 oneX in PTgui and then merge to HDR in LR I don't get that effect. I have only a trial on PTgui so i dont want to buy it if it is possible in insta360studio. Or am I doing something else wrong in my workflow?
Yes - it is prob the stabilization. Is it the internal ONE X HDR feature or you just take 3 photos? I wish ONE X has DNG8 tech like this for HDR+: ua-cam.com/video/cyTnkcteb7M/v-deo.html
amazing tutorial. Now, once I export 3D thru photoshop the quality of JPEG is very low. I need to be JPEG, but higer hes. Can I "go back" from 3D and have it as 2D image so I can save in the format I want? I feel once you go to 3D mode you are stuck in there and it should be the very last step. Is there a way?
@@hughhou Thanks for the tip and your tutorial! Very informative as always. I will try again and if it keeps showing a seamline than i will contact adobe. I mostly use texture to arround 30-40% so this should not be a problem i guess. I also have had problems with seamlines while opening the photo in photoshop after editing in Lightroom first. Maybe i should re-examine my workflow.
Thanks for the incredible tutorial! This isn't working for me in Photoshop with 16bit TIFFs I stitched from the Insta360 Pro 1 in Mistika VR. I'm still seeing the edge line... Everything else is up to date. Are you sure it works on TIFFs as well as DNGs? Or just raw DNGs?
When I open a dng file from the Insta 360 One X in Photoshop, it shows a a dual fisheye image. In your video it shows as a standard image. What am I doing wrong?
HI Hugh... Great tutorial(S) on your channel... Thanks so much... I tried the edge aware editing but ended up with a SINGLE PIXEL LINE when viewing in Phtotoshop>3D>Spherical Panorama ...Right up the stitch line of the pano :( I tried both: 1. opening a DNG file, then creating a 3D>Spherical Panorama>New Panoramic Layer from selected Layer &... 2. opening the DNG with 3D>Spherical Panorama>Import Panoramic ... by the way... What's the difference between these two? Is it that (1) allows for RAW adjustments beforehand? Can RAW adjustments be done AFTER when working in Spherical Pano mode? If i opened using (1) the RAW file without any RAW adjustments though, NO SINGLE PIXEL LINE... what's going on??? I"m using: PS 2018 + ACR 12.2 + MacOS High Sierra + MiSphere DNG
Sound like it is pixel mismatch. Are you sure you are in the correct version of ACR? If you use offset filter to check the line, zoom 100% - is the line still there?
@@hughhou I've had the same issue, but I found a way to fix it. Single pixel line has appear only when "remove chromatic aberration" option was selected. But if you manually edit defringe you'll be safe from that bug :) ps. Insta360 One X DNG + ACR 12.3
Great tutorial as always Hugh! I have a wee problem though - after creating a new layer from the '3D' panorama layer - I've copied/pasted the tripod with the rec marque tool and spot healed the tripod on the new layer. Next - selecting that new layer - i've clicked 'merge down' but then then I get a PS notice " Could not edit the texture(s) directly. please open the texture and choose an editable layer to proceed" i click continue but no merge down. Am I missing something?
I have a tutorial somewhere explain the problem. Basically you 360 layer has smart object and not flatten out completely. Double click into the 360 layer to open it - make sure all layers are flatten out and no smart object layer on top. And to be safe, create an empty layer on top and then save and go back to the 3D layer and try again.
CreatorUp Thanks Hugh, i was looking at that workflow from a 2018 PS tutorial yesterday will try that out - if you have a Link to your old tutorial that would be great - your tutorials are also great for my students BTW 😊
I'm doing it but when I arrive to the "New panorama layer from selected Layers" the image turns completely black. The 3D arrows and everyting makes movement if I try to move the image but everything is black. Can you help me? Thanks! PS: Excellent tutorial!
What is your source file, TIFF, PNG of Jpeg? I will render from DNG first to above 3 formats - and try it one by one - it can be Photoshop does not play well with your GPU.
I tried it with DNG and JPEG... I have an Insta360 One X, I import to the stitching program and after that I import it to photoshop to edit the photo. I tried without stitching but obviously it doesn't work too. I don't know what to do 😅
I am confused. Adobe mentions "Edge aware editing in 360-degree panoramas" in Adobe Camera Raw 11.4 (Aug 2019), but say that "This feature is currently not supported in the Camera Raw filter in Photoshop". Does Camera Raw 11.4 support edge aware filters in Photoshop? See helpx.adobe.com/uk/camera-raw/using/whats-new.html
I just tried using the Camera Raw filter and changed only the highlights and shadows, on (a) an equirectangular image, and (b) after converting it to a smart layer, and both times I have a seam. If I use the Camera Raw filter in Lightroom, I do not get a seam.
Yes, if you watch the tutorial around the first part - I do the Problem demo - I use Camera Raw as a filter. So it WON'T work. You can not use Camera Raw as filter to make this work - you need to open from Camera Raw first and then shift click to retain camera raw inside photoshop - basically a smart object workflow.
@@hughhou Thank you, I understand now! The solution is to run Adobe Bridge first, then right-click the image and choose Open in Camera Raw. That does seamless edge-aware editing. The only thing to be wary of, is that when you hit "done" it automatically saves the image over the original.
Thanks for the tutorial man. I'm coming across a problem though. Whenever I try to create a new Spherical Panorama in PS, it makes the 360 pano, but the image immediately loses a lot of detail, colour and brightness. And then when I try to export it after I remove the tripod, the "Export panorama..." option is greyed out so I can't choose it. What am I doing wrong?
It does sound like a problem. So before you create Spherial Pano - make sure you flatten all your layers. Do it again and the export pano option should be there. If not there, there might be layer conflict - again flatten thing will help.
Is your Photoshop dimension exact the same as your photo? Are you viewing it in 100% - I will view it in 100% and use the offset to validate is NOT because your viewing window issue. Or upload to Facebook and check :)
The patch layer - edited layer after mergin down changing color to darker and doesn't blend visually with original layer. Both layers blending mode set to normal. If I only copy selection of original layer and paste and then merge down without any editing of this layer all is as should there is no color and exposure change, but when I only edid this layer then after merging down it is visalbe that this layer is different.. Have you encountered something like this?
I did mention Z1 twice in the video - maybe you missed that? But I group them with ONE X and Fusion as Z1 is still a consumer camera - judging from the image quality, noise and other characteristics - it won't fit high-end professional usage. I am old school. No matter how good the software is, MFT sensor and more lenses / more sensors with better resolution will always be better. So mastering nodal technique with DSLR and nice high-end glasses will be my approach on 360 photography. Again, others might disagree. But I have my works and image quality to prove it otherwise. Z1 is still a great in-between camera for quick shots and the size is a really great advantage. Just to be clear, I don't get any dosh from any of the cameras I mentioned in the video - they are just the cameras I own so I have experience to talk about it. There are other brands out there made great cameras. But I can't mention them as I have no experience.
Do you think it is NOT possible to create a professional-looking Virtual Tour with the Ricoh Theta Z1 360 camera? I would really appreciate your feedback on this. Thank you in advance.
You can def create professional looking photo with the Z1 - it is all post processing skill. What I meant is for absolute highest quality photo - the ones that win award or use by high end museums or shared by Google or Microsoft - those works are all done in DSLR or Mirrorless camera. On our line of works, no client will want 1 shot camera - they know the image quality different so they will require DSLR. I am talking about pretty high end jobs or art pieces.
This will be perfect for the outdoor photo and videos I'll be doing with another client in October :) Thank you, Master Hou!!
Oh nice!
@@hughhou I'll let you know details next week
Nice tutorial.. thanks for the shout out ;)
Thank you Ben!
Bravo! A true genuine guru truly openly shares his workflow and secret of professional editing step-by-step (express). Many others tutorials out there just touch the surface and ignored many of their workflows create lots of problems such as none usable noises...
Awww thank you!!
Master Hou is the real deal
Awww thank you!!
My Dude You Are A Freaking Digital Pimp!... Love your work!
Haha thank you thank you!!
By far the best tutorial for 360 photos I've watched so far. You've raised the bar. Thank you, just subbed
Thanks for the sub!
fantastic tutorial
Many thanks
Awesome Tutorial
Thank you 🙏🏼
GREAT VIDEO as always! Was that workflow improved from back then?
Hi Hugh, this video was both informative and entertaining. Got a kick out of seeing you in front of the crowd.
Haha thanks Chris!
Terrific workshop tutorial! Thanks!
I just tried your full workflow and i must say its awsome. I also bought the plugins for denoise and straightening the 360. They are great. Many thanks!
Nice! Glad it is helpful.
Couple of weeks ago i have made a 360 aerial photo of the city of Amersfoort in The Netherlands. This evening i recognized quite some noise. I have used the denoise plugin and recovered some details and it looks much cleaner. Check the difference: kuula.co/post/7qdhX (new) kuula.co/post/7qcvS (oud, with more noise). I made the 360's with the Mavic Air. I have better drones such as the Phantom 4 Pro and the Inspire 2 but for a small drone like the mavic air this is not bad quality.
Oh nice. Great job.
thank you so much! I am planning to kickstart my business soon, this tutorial is super useful!
Glad it was helpful!
This is superb!!! Many Thanks Hugh! You make my day!
I am glad it help!
I am looking forward to your gigapixel tutorial for aerial drone shots. Must be awsome.
Hello. Great Video. Can you please make the same with Affinity Photo? Thank you.
I don't know how to use Affinity photo lol.
powerful!!!
Thank you!
Great tutorial, i take images for Google street view as a hobby, after 4 million views, i realised my images doesn’t look professional and not sharp. This would improve my photos and im going to upgrade to a Insta360 one R which does RAW.
Thanks and Subbed!
Wow 4 millions views!!!??? Thank for the subs. I am sure I can learn a lot from you too!
Great job 👍. Thanks for sharing this information . can I get Topaz AI Denoise link .
➜ Topaz AI denoise: bit.ly/3mzEyQQ
Great tutorial, I learned a lot!
excellent
Many many thanks
Thanks for another great tutorial. Ever since I saw your pictures I was always curious to know how you made them look so great, so thanks for the info. What do you think about the xphase pro? Do you think it is wort getting it?
Awww thanks! I don't know anything about the Xphase. Sound too good to be true. I think Mic Ty is a better person to ask. He did extended testing and lots of samples to show.
@@hughhou I did ask Mic about it already, just wanted to get your take on it. It does sound too good to be true but the pictures do look great.
Great tips. Thanks Hou!!!
Great tutorial. Unfortunately I have been using Affinity Photo to edit my 360 photos and the results is "seamless" without needing healing brush, I can't do that in PS, the layer is still destructive
I also heard Affinity Photo is a lot better - I think if you have Affinity Photo - should keep using it. NO need to jump camp to PS
@@hughhou You should try it, and then make your great tutorials, I'm an Affinity user too.
Great tutorial, It would be not better to do the aberration chromatic corrections before stitch ? Usually when I shot with DSLR I use Camera Raw on the images and then stitch then, just for the lens corrections such Aberration chromatic sharpen and etc.
Thanks Hugh, another great video to raise my level of photography. Just when I need it, plenty of amateur pictures on my channel, but that will change soon. Thanks to you. :)
Haha nice. I am glad it just in time. The feature is pretty new so you did not miss much. Now give you excuse to redo some of your old ones
thanks !
really thanks for the extra tip.. i have been struggling to find an easier solution to this as my camera's gyro is behaving odd ... thanks for the tip. really helpful..
You're welcome!
Great job buddy!
Will you be at OC6? If so let's meet up.
Yes! I will be! See you there Al!
I just started getting warnings that Photoshop is discontinuing support for 3d features. This does not bode well.
Thanks Hugh, all worked well with the exception of the tripod removal. After copying to new layer and spot healing after I select merge down I get an error message of 'Could not edit the texture(s) directly. Please open the texture(s) and choose an editable target layer to proceed'. With two option buttons 'Continue' which just takes me back and 'Change texture target' which opens project in another tab. Thanks...
Make sure you flatten your panorama layer before converting it to 3D. Don't use smart object in 3D > panorama mode. I had same isssue
As Sergei said - you need to flatten your layer structure first and make sure no smart object on top layer.
Hugh help! Has this 'edge aware' feature been removed from Adobe Camera Raw 2024? Trying to edit dng files from Insta360 X4 and the seam line is bad even when just adjusting only Highlights and Shadows?
I comment a temp solution in my other comment and I report the bug to Adobe now and hopefully they fix it.
@@hughhou thanks Hugh, it seems to have been removed 🤷🏻♂️ Found this video because I was looking for a solution, thought it might have had something to do with X4 exif data but don’t think it is. Saw your other comment, thanks!
@@hughhou I’ve found out that the problem lies with Insta360 not including ‘gpano’ metadata when the dng is stitched from Studio, however it does with stitched jpgs. I manually added the gpano metadata to the dng (which is a pain) but the it worked, I adjusted all the colours etc and no seam. Surely it can’t be difficult for Insta360 to add this to Studio for dng exports? I’ve messaged them, but I’m sure they’ll listen to you more! This gpano metadata is in QooCam dng exports, hence why I don’t have the same problem with their dngs.
crazy how much software you know!
Haha just learning and researching ... I have no life beside work and UA-cam lol.
Hi Hugh, first off hats off to your tutorials, they're brilliant! I've watched the tutorial and must be missing something: I Stitch the HDR from the insta pro 2 in Stitcher. then I open the DNG in photoshop Camera Raw (latest version), make adjustments and shit + open. when I save the image as Tiff, I am still getting the seams. Any idea which step I might be missing or why this is?
I saw someone replied in the comments to open in Bridge but now bridge will not open camera raw. Hmmm...
I think the problem is with stereoscopic 360s. Is it possible to accomplish with stereo or only mono?
So you prefer topazAI over neat for photoshop?
Neat have Photoshop? I did not know that lol. Yes I use TopazAI as it is very cheap lol.
CreatorUp yeah they do. If you buy Neat for PS-only the price is comparable.
I need to try it then. Thanks for the tip. I never use Neat for still - I think Neat is good for moving pixels.
Did they remove Edge Aware from the latest version? It looks like they removed almost all support for 360 panoramas, and when I load an Equirectangular RAW image from my Insta360 x4 and try to edit it in CameraRAW it has the seam. It is not doing edge aware as far as I can tell.
I'm gonna start by saying that I love what you're doing and it's inspiring me to take to the sky with it. The issue I'm running into is that the way the the program shoots the 360 image doesn't seem to mesh with how adobe sees them because whenever I generate a 360 view in Photoshop it's warped really bad around the edges. I'm really new to this but if I do it want to do it right so let me know if you have any advice otherwise I'll just keep an eye on the channel and hope that you address it in the future.
Did you follow the workflow to colorgrad in Camera RAW before 360 view? I am making more tutorials on this topic for sure.
Yes, it's strange, when I view the image before I upload the 360 looks normal but in photoshop it almost seems like it's the wrong size or shape because when I generate a 3D from the project it does make it spherical but it only seems like the center of the image is good but all the of the edges distort. Just so you know what I'm working with I have both an inspire 2 with X5s and I have a mavic 2 pro. I run a 2017 macbook and I have the full Adobe suite. When I watch the drone take the images in Litchi it almost takes the images in diagnol cascading rows instead of vertical, I'm not sure if that's part of the problem. I'd like to learn the angles to shoot 360s manually which will give me the ability to shoot them in hdr as well 🤷🏼♂️
And honestly I just want to say I appreciate you getting back to me in a timely manner 😊 I'm sure you stay pretty busy 👍🏼
Man, I love your videos. Do you have any LUT t of your own that you use for 360 real state photos?
Great tuto, how do end up working with a "flat" image from a dual fisheye plugin taken with a Z1, instead of the dual spherical _HDR from the camera? thx
You stitch it in Theta Lightroom plugin for the Z1 tutorial here: ua-cam.com/video/hg1m-GlYnuI/v-deo.html
@@hughhou GREAT, thanks, then i work straight from the exported tiff 16bits in camera raw 11.4?
I'd minimalize the noise/sharpen in RAW edit (turn detail setting to lowest too) and duplicate layer/smart sharpen instead... then make it a luminosity layer.. flatten/save... MHO :)
Is there a tutorial somewhere on this workflow? What is the advantage on doing that?
@@hughhou I found this answer in a Topic on the subject...
When you start using that method You'll see the difference in the control you have.
I'm guessing you probably do this when trying new things but max/min each setting to better see how thy work.
I think big issue is "over sharpening".
cheers!
qr.ae/T9Rtzi
I recently used my drone to take shots to form 360-degree panoramas. I watched Mr. Hou's video on the function of Camera Raw 11.4 to avoid stitch line resulting from editing the panorama with Camera Raw. I opened my panorama, in tiff format, in Adobe Bridge, which then enables opening it as smart object in Photoshop, that is, through Camera Raw. Unfortunately, after editing in Camera Raw and opening it as object, a vertical stitch line still appears in the middle, as can be seen by the lens filter -- offset. Could anyone please suggest any reason why the Camera Raw fails to avoid the stitch line now?
Can you have DNG instead of TIFF in camera raw? If you use DNG as smart object it usually work better than TIFF.
merging down my layer for tripod removal does not work. Using PS v21; any idea what I am doing wrong? If I merge the layers together the initial layer is no more the 3D layer and the option to export as panorama is gone.
why does the bottom of my 360 photo look warped at the bottom? from photoshop 6000x3000 file
Is your photo in 2 by 1 ratio?
hello sir can i get unstitch photos for 360 practice or where can I get Arial to unstitch raw photos for 360 editng
For qoocam 8k. Should we use ptgui to stitch first and follow this?
If you have PTGui - I will. For sure stitch first even without PTGui. Kandao is making the software support DNG very soon - so no more jumping tho hoops or PTGui workflow. For now, yes, PTGui get you the best result - the auto workflow just won't work for anything closer than 2 meters - even I saw some reviewers get good result - I mean I shoot so many and has so many experience on this camera and I never get good auto result lol.
@@hughhou thanks
Thanks once gain for a very good tutorial. so this happens automatically? does it recognize a panoramic photo? I am puzzled on how does it now to make edges blend or not. note that on 15:11 you can work non-destructively if you go inside the panorama, create a blank layer, save, go back, now you can work right on the panormaic layer, use the healing brush/clone or whatever and it will be saved on the blank layer inside....
Yes, exactly.
Saved me again! :-)
Lol glad it help!
Hello Hugh... I've somewhat backed away from using my One X and Misphere for virtual tours ever since I discovered the Canon 5d mark IV. As you know, a DSLR workflow is more time consuming but much better quality. Do you shoot with a DSLR camera? I've searched through your videos but can't find anything that might help me optimize or change my current workflow. I have been using Enfuse to merge bracketed images and PTGui for stitching, but it uses up gigs of hard drive space, especially when I'm including drone footage. It's tempting to go back to a 360 camera to speed up the process, but can't justify buying something like the Insta Pro 2 or similar. Appreciate any suggestions. Roy
Check the new Qoocam 8K? It reach DLSR quality now: ua-cam.com/video/cyTnkcteb7M/v-deo.html - I do shoot with DSLR - I should make my tutorial soon but this is part of it actually.
is this workflow also possible with a PNG 16 bit?
PNG and TIFF all work. Does not need to be 16 bit. But higher bit-depth gives you a better result in color grading without introducing banding.
@Hugh Hou, hi! how can I make a 2D photo from a VR footage or a part of it, better said. Thank you so much!!
Hi Hugh, love your videos! 360vr is sometimes a complicated topic, but thanx of you I understand the most of it! Your are a 360guru!
I have a question: When I take a bracket series of 3 photos in RAW with my Insta one X ( EV-2, EV 0 and EV+2 ) and I stich them in instastudio 2019 and then I merge them to HDR in Lightroom
I get a sort of ghosting a the edges. Has this phenomenon to do with the flowstate stabilisation in the Insta One X or with the automatic stabilisation in insta360 studio?
When I stitch my fisheye photos from the insta360 oneX in PTgui and then merge to HDR in LR I don't get that effect. I have only a trial on PTgui so i dont want to buy it if it is possible in insta360studio.
Or am I doing something else wrong in my workflow?
Yes - it is prob the stabilization. Is it the internal ONE X HDR feature or you just take 3 photos? I wish ONE X has DNG8 tech like this for HDR+: ua-cam.com/video/cyTnkcteb7M/v-deo.html
Hi Hugh, when can we expect your tutorial about gigapixel drone photography?
Still need some time - too may camera releasing this month :(
@@hughhou I understand buddy, take your time. Love your new vids of the new cams.
nice thanks for that tip! which teleprompter do you use btw?
I just got a random one from B&h
@@hughhou just looking for something cheap but working.... Thx
amazing tutorial. Now, once I export 3D thru photoshop the quality of JPEG is very low. I need to be JPEG, but higer hes. Can I "go back" from 3D and have it as 2D image so I can save in the format I want? I feel once you go to 3D mode you are stuck in there and it should be the very last step. Is there a way?
Yes actually you need to make sure the source file is in high res first.
Hi Hugh, do you also use other topaz products like the gigapixel ai?
No I don't. Only denoise does not create seamline - other product does create seam line.
I often still get seamlines even with the new camera raw version. Especially after using the texture slider. Very annoying.
Really? I usually control texture around 50% before introducing unwanted noise. Have you filed a bug report to adobe? This should not be.
@@hughhou Thanks for the tip and your tutorial! Very informative as always. I will try again and if it keeps showing a seamline than i will contact adobe. I mostly use texture to arround 30-40% so this should not be a problem i guess. I also have had problems with seamlines while opening the photo in photoshop after editing in Lightroom first. Maybe i should re-examine my workflow.
Thanks for the incredible tutorial! This isn't working for me in Photoshop with 16bit TIFFs I stitched from the Insta360 Pro 1 in Mistika VR. I'm still seeing the edge line... Everything else is up to date. Are you sure it works on TIFFs as well as DNGs? Or just raw DNGs?
When I open a dng file from the Insta 360 One X in Photoshop, it shows a a dual fisheye image. In your video it shows as a standard image. What am I doing wrong?
Did you stitch first in Insta360 Studio 2019 - please stitch first before processing. Hope this help!
@@hughhou I'm using a mi sphere. The DNG photos are only dual fisheye images. Is there a way to stitch the dng files and have them remain dng files?
@@1QKGLH I am not sure but I think this is made with camera in-built HDR feature (in this exemple from the titan)...
HI Hugh... Great tutorial(S) on your channel... Thanks so much...
I tried the edge aware editing but ended up with a SINGLE PIXEL LINE when viewing in Phtotoshop>3D>Spherical Panorama ...Right up the stitch line of the pano :(
I tried both:
1. opening a DNG file, then creating a 3D>Spherical Panorama>New Panoramic Layer from selected Layer &...
2. opening the DNG with 3D>Spherical Panorama>Import Panoramic
... by the way... What's the difference between these two? Is it that (1) allows for RAW adjustments beforehand?
Can RAW adjustments be done AFTER when working in Spherical Pano mode?
If i opened using (1) the RAW file without any RAW adjustments though, NO SINGLE PIXEL LINE... what's going on???
I"m using: PS 2018 + ACR 12.2 + MacOS High Sierra + MiSphere DNG
Sound like it is pixel mismatch. Are you sure you are in the correct version of ACR? If you use offset filter to check the line, zoom 100% - is the line still there?
@@hughhou I've had the same issue, but I found a way to fix it. Single pixel line has appear only when "remove chromatic aberration" option was selected. But if you manually edit defringe you'll be safe from that bug :)
ps. Insta360 One X DNG + ACR 12.3
Great tutorial as always Hugh! I have a wee problem though - after creating a new layer from the '3D' panorama layer - I've copied/pasted the tripod with the rec marque tool and spot healed the tripod on the new layer. Next - selecting that new layer - i've clicked 'merge down' but then then I get a PS notice " Could not edit the texture(s) directly. please open the texture and choose an editable layer to proceed" i click continue but no merge down. Am I missing something?
I have a tutorial somewhere explain the problem. Basically you 360 layer has smart object and not flatten out completely. Double click into the 360 layer to open it - make sure all layers are flatten out and no smart object layer on top. And to be safe, create an empty layer on top and then save and go back to the 3D layer and try again.
CreatorUp Thanks Hugh, i was looking at that workflow from a 2018 PS tutorial yesterday will try that out - if you have a Link to your old tutorial that would be great - your tutorials are also great for my students BTW 😊
I'm doing it but when I arrive to the "New panorama layer from selected Layers" the image turns completely black. The 3D arrows and everyting makes movement if I try to move the image but everything is black. Can you help me? Thanks! PS: Excellent tutorial!
What is your source file, TIFF, PNG of Jpeg? I will render from DNG first to above 3 formats - and try it one by one - it can be Photoshop does not play well with your GPU.
I tried it with DNG and JPEG... I have an Insta360 One X, I import to the stitching program and after that I import it to photoshop to edit the photo. I tried without stitching but obviously it doesn't work too. I don't know what to do 😅
My GPU is a Nvidia GTX 2070, I don't think the problem is there...
Hey Hugh, after I made the layer into a panorama layer the whole image turns black, do you know whats going wrong? Thanks.
What version of Photoshop you have? Is it a TIFF or DNG or jpg or PNG image? - this never happen to me - sound like a GPU error. Do you have GPU?
@@hughhou Thanks for the answer, its an jpg image. I have the Nvidia GTX 970 and i also tried it on a new Mac but in both cases the image was black
I am confused. Adobe mentions "Edge aware editing in 360-degree panoramas" in Adobe Camera Raw 11.4 (Aug 2019), but say that "This feature is currently not supported in the Camera Raw filter in Photoshop". Does Camera Raw 11.4 support edge aware filters in Photoshop? See helpx.adobe.com/uk/camera-raw/using/whats-new.html
I just tried using the Camera Raw filter and changed only the highlights and shadows, on (a) an equirectangular image, and (b) after converting it to a smart layer, and both times I have a seam. If I use the Camera Raw filter in Lightroom, I do not get a seam.
Yes, if you watch the tutorial around the first part - I do the Problem demo - I use Camera Raw as a filter. So it WON'T work. You can not use Camera Raw as filter to make this work - you need to open from Camera Raw first and then shift click to retain camera raw inside photoshop - basically a smart object workflow.
@@hughhou Thank you, I understand now! The solution is to run Adobe Bridge first, then right-click the image and choose Open in Camera Raw. That does seamless edge-aware editing. The only thing to be wary of, is that when you hit "done" it automatically saves the image over the original.
Thanks for the tutorial man. I'm coming across a problem though. Whenever I try to create a new Spherical Panorama in PS, it makes the 360 pano, but the image immediately loses a lot of detail, colour and brightness. And then when I try to export it after I remove the tripod, the "Export panorama..." option is greyed out so I can't choose it.
What am I doing wrong?
It does sound like a problem. So before you create Spherial Pano - make sure you flatten all your layers. Do it again and the export pano option should be there. If not there, there might be layer conflict - again flatten thing will help.
@@hughhou ok I'll try that.
Whenever I import an Insta360 One R photo into Adobe Photoshop, it always has a line that goes through the middle. Do you know how to get rid of this?
Is your Photoshop dimension exact the same as your photo? Are you viewing it in 100% - I will view it in 100% and use the offset to validate is NOT because your viewing window issue. Or upload to Facebook and check :)
CreatorUp It only happens when I import Insta360 RAW dng files to Adobe Photoshop. When I import insp/insv files, it doesn’t have the line.
Mmmmm RAW from ONE X? That might be an Insta360 issue then. Have you try their support? That sound like a bug.
CreatorUp Yeah I contacted them yesterday, they said they would fix it in the next firmware update. Thanks for the reply!
The patch layer - edited layer after mergin down changing color to darker and doesn't blend visually with original layer. Both layers blending mode set to normal.
If I only copy selection of original layer and paste and then merge down without any editing of this layer all is as should there is no color and exposure change, but when I only edid this layer then after merging down it is visalbe that this layer is different.. Have you encountered something like this?
I tried it on original 360 layer and any spot healing , stamp, content aware actions works but they left darker areas and color is like a bit burned..
It sound like a bug in your current photoshop version. Have you update it and see if the problem still there?
How the heck did he copy the BACKGROUND ON THE LAYER ? And why didn't he explain the most essential point ..
Which point you are referring to?
No mention of Ricoh Theta Z1. Do you not use it or were you not given dosh to push that brand?
I did mention Z1 twice in the video - maybe you missed that? But I group them with ONE X and Fusion as Z1 is still a consumer camera - judging from the image quality, noise and other characteristics - it won't fit high-end professional usage. I am old school. No matter how good the software is, MFT sensor and more lenses / more sensors with better resolution will always be better. So mastering nodal technique with DSLR and nice high-end glasses will be my approach on 360 photography. Again, others might disagree. But I have my works and image quality to prove it otherwise. Z1 is still a great in-between camera for quick shots and the size is a really great advantage. Just to be clear, I don't get any dosh from any of the cameras I mentioned in the video - they are just the cameras I own so I have experience to talk about it. There are other brands out there made great cameras. But I can't mention them as I have no experience.
Do you think it is NOT possible to create a professional-looking Virtual Tour with the Ricoh Theta Z1 360 camera? I would really appreciate your feedback on this. Thank you in advance.
You can def create professional looking photo with the Z1 - it is all post processing skill. What I meant is for absolute highest quality photo - the ones that win award or use by high end museums or shared by Google or Microsoft - those works are all done in DSLR or Mirrorless camera. On our line of works, no client will want 1 shot camera - they know the image quality different so they will require DSLR. I am talking about pretty high end jobs or art pieces.
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why you scream so much?