@dylangardener1580 it depends on how heavy and how much you tow. If you're just running it around, 5-6k miles would be okay. If you're towing 15k a lot, then 3k miles. I keep a ledger on oil changes. I saw a guy who haf a fleet of 5 3500 6.4l. They were pulling 16-18k lbs every mile. He was getting 350-450k miles before they needed anything
I have a 22 Ram 2500 6.4 with the 3.73 rear axle.....and I average running empty in the 16-18 mpg range. That is pretty good for a heavy truck. I pull a 35 foot 5th wheel (approx 10 1/2 k pounds) and when pulling I get 10-12 mpg. Not bad! Does goods in the hills, good off the line and just overall a great truck! Plus, it just looks so much better than the Fords and GM huge grilled boxy monsters!
@@TheMonkdad I pull a 10,000 pound 30' camper. My 2004 Hemi with 300,000 miles avg 10 mpg pulling. Original engine and trans. Even original spark plugs lol
It's just great that you cover the technical nuances! I live in another country across the ocean, and we do not have dealers for these cars, but enthusiasts who are in love with these cars bring them to themselves. I also dream of PW. And I am very interested in studying the technical details, and will stop at the most reliable option, because it is difficult to maintain - it takes a long time to wait for a spare part, there are no mechanics who know this technique well! Thank you so much!
Greatful for having found this channel, it's good to see that someone is looking and bringing more information about this motor out to others. It's quite helpful when doing research on what your wanting and should look for in a truck
Very interesting and informative video. I learned quite a bit. I have nothing but good things to say about my 6.4 hemi. It does everything I ask it to with ease. Like you said, the trans and oil temps stay right where they should. My 1500 ran hot, about 40 degrees hotter in some instances. So far I’m very pleased.
first thing I noticed when towing with the 6.4 was the temps stayed normal. didn't even move. where as the 5.7 didn't seem to like being worked for long periods of time. great engine so far!
@@GettysGarage This is an interesting observation as I experienced just the opposite on our first tow with our slightly used 2500. Coolant temps moved 30 degrees, per this information screen. Engine performed well but coolant temp was not stable.
My experience is that both engines are great...I never had an issue, but for me. I preferred the 5.7 as it just seemed smoother, and I liked the power band....I currently own a 2022 Power Wagon with a 6.4 and I really like it..I do miss some things about my 2019 1500 Limited......
I just traded in a relatively loaded Bighorn 1500. There is definitely a difference in ride and "refinement." But a 2500 is a true Truck vs a 5.7 that walks the line between "TRUCK" and something else... I just brought my new 2500 home from a dealer 500 miles away and so got to "break it in" right... The new one rides like a "log wagon" in comparison, but is still very refined and I always liked a stiff ride in any vehicle I have had including putting "pinks" springs on my old subaru. Those are the WRX springs. I also notice the steering is not nearly as quick or sensitive on the 2500 vs the 1500 but it still tracks wonderfully and that is the key to a long drive. The new stiffer frames on the new 1500 AND the gen 4.5 2500 is a world of difference. My 2013 and 2015 1500's tended to want to "wander" driving down the road...
Great video as usual man I sure appreciate sharing all that knowledge,, I fell in love with my Olive Green 20’ Power Wagon before I knew how “Heavy Duty” she really was. I’m a huge fan of the Power Wagon, it’s been a fun truck and drives like a trophy truck!! This video like most was very educational man and I sure do appreciate you taking the time. Keep ‘em coming and enjoy that awesome truck you have there!! My 6.4 purrrrrrrs like a kitten and in the Power Wagon I can’t feel it running at idle. Runs smooth and shifts out even smoother, love this truck!
@ralphgilson9989 14 - 15 is great 👍 my wifes 6.2 ls takes premium gas and hits 12-13mpg at cheaper fuel and same milage as a older 5.7 hemi that's good milage
I have a 5.7 1500, and I am looking forward to upgrading someday to a 3/4 ton. You have me PUMPED to be looking for a good deal on a Power Wagon! Thanks for getting into the nitty gritty details on the 6.4 engine. Cheers!
Very informative video. I have a ram 2500 with a 5.7. And yes, 2 exhaust studs broke off in the same port. That ticking drives me nuts!! I’m getting ready to fix it with a 6.4 2500. Thanks again!!
yes the dreaded 5.7 exhaust manifold leak, good news is they are catastrophic by any means just annoying lol. thankfully the 6.4 rarely every has that issue.
Bore sizes 5.7 3.920 6.4 4.090 5.7 stroke 3.58 6.4 stroke 3.72. The differences between 6.4s compression ratios camshafts tuning. Yes tuning don’t forget the 6.4s have the super cool variable intake manifold. To the hypereutectic pistons there fine I don’t recommend nitrous. To superchargers on truck engines it takes extra tuning you should get a hold of someone like hemifever or Jay green. Why last I heard numbers around 175-180 of cranking compression in those HEMIs. In the late 90s 150-160 was cranking compression was pretty common
Out of all the engines gas and diesel, I decided on a 2021 PW 6.4! I have a SRT Challenger 6.4 that is amazing. Nice video and made me feel good about my choice of the Power Wagon. I’ve subscribed and 👍🏼’d
Just got a 2024 Power Wagon and appreciate the info on the engine. Lots of technology shared with aviation, sodium pistons, Forged cranks. sold my 1500 and am super happy with the truck!! Thanks again
I’ve owned my Ram 2500 with the 6.4 for over 7 years and put over 100,000 miles on it. I’ve kept up with the maintenance schedule and changed the oil every 7k miles. The truck averages 12 mpg all day. The best mpg was 16 average over 2000 miles with no trailer. Only gripe I have is the noise the engine makes. It sounds like a typewriter and it’s almost necessary to swap out the muffler.
Thanks for doing this video. Im looking at a 2012 2500 with the 6.4. But as soon as i see hemi i get nervous. Never owned one. Only hear nad things on the 5.7. Havent hesrd much on the 6.4.
I hear you on the ticking. Had a 2012 Ram 1500 and we went on a camping trip and when we were on the way back home check over the truck before hooking it up to the trailer. That is when I heard the tick, at first I was thinking it’s the lifters that’s when I check the exhaust manifold bolts and they were spinning. When I found that I was a little relieved cause I wasn’t about to have a engine rebuild.
Thank you so much for the information on BIG Gas engine that DODGE offered. In the pickup. That it takes 40 wht. Oil. My 353 Detroit Diesel uses 40 Wht. Thick oil. I keep it plugged in with block heater. I was looking at Dodge with Cummins but the $9000 dollar mark up, just too, to much. Thank you for having a big GAS block, towing on your trip, showing the Engine Temp's and pressure. Very helpful for me. I want a 8 foot bed. For me a must. The screen on Dodge is so large, must have GPS for me. Can now price the Big block Gas engine instead of Diesel, on getting prices from Dealers.
Interesting how the 6.4 BGE and 6.4 SRT are not the same as they serve different purposes. More interesting is that the 5.7 used in the trucks and the 5.7 used in the cars seems to be the exact same engine. That's a bit disturbing as tow ratings seem to be growing on the half ton trucks. So glad I made the decision to go with a 2500 with the 6.4 for towing. Absolutely love it. Great Vid!
Yup pretty much what I saw. The 5.7 is basicly the same across the board. Whereas the 6.4 is a bit more purpose built which is nice to see. I mean the 5.7 is still a great engine but I would be cautious buying it and loaded it up day in and day out
@@GettysGarage I am still kicking myself for not buying a 74 Subaru Turbo to save 15 bucks a month as I towed a pop up with a Forester... That year ONLY, the Subaru used a "detuned" WRX block etc. vs later years when they used an uptuned regular 2.4 block. I thought it was interesting when you noted that the 6.4 was essentially a detuned SRT 392/6.4. Robust comes to mind as an overarching concept.
@rdallas81 I just pulled my spark plugs for the 2nd time in my 04 hemi I've had since new.. you should change the plugs I'm at 210,000 miles the hemi and coil packs and water pump are begging for help I bet
93 octane is everything on these engines. Both run & tow better smoother & more consistent with 93. Mpg vs cost of gas right now is very similar but I’d rather have the better performance in any situation. If you run lower gas try the 93 & you’ll immediately tell the difference. Thanks for the video, have & love them both!!
I 2nd this man I went from regular to 93 and it completely changed the whole performance on the truck I used 93 and a cleaner to get the gunk out after I bought it and it was a whole different truck on 93
I have 2015 Ram with 6.4. At 50,009 miles I had a ticking problem. Took it to the shop replaced lifters. I hear lifter failure is common in these engines. 3,000 $ later I’m back on the road with fingers crossed!
Great video on the differences between 5.7 and 6.4. Incredible technical overview. The sodium filled exhaust valves are something I would have never known about.
I went from a 16 Cummins to a 19 Pentastar. I didn’t need the diesel for towing anymore. I hated the Pentastar and got rid of it. I had the 3.21 rear so maybe that was the issue. Never got the epa estimate unless I was under 65, flat ground and not using cruise. Then, it would constantly shift out of 8th, 7th, 6th on any incline. Constant shifts just drove me crazy.
Been an A/P tech for 25 years now retired and i can say NSA and AN hardware are much better than any automotive hardware, so yes aircraft grade does mean something, and no i never worked on general aviation, commerical and military only.
@@mattottie6410 you’re talking about hardware, I’m talking about airplanes. NSA/ AN hardware come from numerous different vendors with varying degrees of quality. But good for you for liking your job I guess
As an A&P and degreed materials engineer (metallurgist), if the exhaust manifold fasteners are indeed aircraft garde, then there is a difference. Aircraft material specs require cleaner alloy chemistry. If a supplier is providing sub-spec hardware, then bad on them and the company accepting it and not performing audits.
Excellent video again. Very informative. I want a Powerwagon even more now to tow my 31’ Airstream Classic. My Ram 1500 does tow it very well but out west through Teton Pass I had to pull over several times due to starting to over heat.
I didnt end up pulling over when I ran the mountains but I certainly had to drop my speed because the truck was going to over heat lol. Nothing wrong with the 1500's great trucks but the PW is so much more comfortable towing.
Be sure and look at your payload if you are going to tow with a Power Wagon. A fully loaded power wagon ONLY has as little as a 1000 lb payload. That made me go with a regular 2500 Laramie. It is not an intrinsic function of the truck to have a lower payload, but the set up of the suspension on a power wagon, I hear. I'd like to hear "Getty Adventures" address this issue...
Ford did the new class leading 7.3 gas. GM did the new 6.6. Ram should update & open up the class lagging 6.4 to the 7.0 liters the block was designed for. That’s right a 426 Hemi. Not for high rpm horsepower but for especially more & a broader lower rpm torque curve. This would come with the stroke & cubes. It would not use anymore fuel until it was asked for more power than the 6.4 makes. Speaking of power it could easily support a class leading 440HP and a competitive 470-475 ish torque. No doubt trade ins & sales would soar.
@@GettysGarage I take new AS from plant to dealerships with my 1500 Ram with lil 3.0 liter Econ diesel. 880,000 miles now. 480 TQ 8 speed 3.92 it moves them ok even the 8k 33 Classic. With the turbo brake & factory trailer brake controller it controls speed down grades and stops ok. But needs WDH with built in sway control, axle to frame air bags, & XL load tires to handle the weight well.
I'm considering gas for my next truck. 2012 Cummins I have now is running just great. But for what I do now with my daily I don't think I need to put another $10k in a new truck to get the diesel, and the extra payload in a gas truck suits me better than towing power. I had a 2004 1500 Hemi I bought new back then. That engine was fantastic. Had it 81,000 miles and never had an issue. Actually I think for that whole truck it needed one wheel bearing and a pinion seal in that time. 2012 has had several more repairs, but I'm also at almost 150k.
I have a 2004 Hemi. Laramie edition 4 door. Has 300,000 Miles. Has original spark plugs. Replaced fuel pump, power steering rack, axles and diff stubs.
Haha!!! Glad you said only did research and don’t work on engine!!! I’m owner of 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 5.7 Hemi with near 290,000 miles! Great all around engine and I’m thinking of swap to 6.4 Hemi!!! Now I’m in Missouri I uses 5-20W in winter, 10-30W in spring and fall season and 20-50W in summer months or when towing long trips. My 3/4 ton truck when I open the open with grill goes up, there’s all kinds of coolant radiators haha!!! When you mention about oil temp on your 1500 well I don’t know what it gots but my oil temp or pressure does change much under heavy loads.
My brother went through 3 engines in his ram over a 2.5 year span, he's a journeyman mechanic and didn't tow or give it a hard time. I had a 6.0 chev at the same time and I beat the shit out of it and drove off road frequently for my gf to take pictures of the coastline....Never had a problem with it(tie rods and leaf springs.....like alot of them). Still ran smooth with 375k on her when I sold it
I can't believe the prices, starting to get very disheartening. I knew this truck was not fuel efficient but when I bought it in November gas was like 1.25 tomorrow the pumps will apparently be north of 1.80 in my area
You were damn close on the piston pronunciation Getty ! Pronounced - HYPER - YOU - TEKTIK You rock dude thanks for the vid ! Cheers *I should add, if anyone's curious, hypereutectic pistons are aluminum with added materials to reduce the thermal expansion of a normal piston, so tighter tolerances can be achieved.
Great video. Just to get technical, the addition of silicon to reduce the thermal expansion of the aluminum pistons is correct but it's not silicone. Silicone is a synthetic polymer used to make moldable silicone rubber (an elastomer) to make silicone rubber products. Silicon is a solid element added to aluminum during the alloying process of aluminum. Silicon is also used in electronic circuits. Silicon and silicone are two different things. ("con" as in "convict", and "cone" as in "traffic cone") A very common mistake. Yes, this is an old post, but I just had to chime in anyway.😎
Looking to purchase a ram next couple weeks. Was hung up on purchasing a diesel for our travel trailer & boat but I believe the gas engine will be fine. I’m in California so Diesel prices suck.
Thicker oil only means it doesn't have as tight of tolerances. Tighter tolerances require thinner oil to allow the oil to get to those tight spaces. It's the same exact oil in terms of film strength and additives, just fits in smaller spaces.
Hello Alex, first time commenting on your videos. I enjoy your videos for being informative and reliable for stating actual facts instead of fake news just for the reviews. But first off, I want to say I just purchased a 2023 Ram Power Wagon that just came into the dealership 2 days ago. They offered me 15% off the sticker and then just to get it off the lot another $3500.00 for a total of $16,200.00 of the sticker. I really was not looking for a power wagon, but I could not pass up the deal. Just wanted to ask you do you run 93octane in your truck? And suggestions on a adding any accessories on this truck for better performance or gas mileage, looks? When you need new tires are you going to change from the off-road tires to something a little quieter? Thanks for your time. Keep the videos going.
I know these questions were posed for Alex, but I hope you don’t mind that I’m going to respond. First and foremost, congratulations on the truck. Power Wagons are amazing and it sounds like you got a great price. In reference to the octane rating of the fuel, you should always run midgrade fuel in your 6.4 L. Regular fuel can be utilized, but in the event that the engine experiences preignition (Detonation), the knock sensors will trigger the ECM to retard your ignition timing, saving your engines life but reducing power output by detuning the ignition curve. While mid grade (89 octane near sea level) is recommended and 87 or regular octane is permissible, 93 octane should not offer any performance gain over 89 octane as the compression ratio does not dictate a need for an octane rating greater than 89. You could probably get away with 87 at higher elevations. In so far as modifications to the vehicle, every power wagon should be running a 35 inch tire, minimum. The factory Goodyear duratracs are relatively quiet, and I don’t believe that any self-respecting power wagon owner would go less aggressive than the factory tire. Congratulations again on the truck, God bless.
I had a 2014 Ram 2500 5.7 & a 2018 6.4 Ram 2500. They were both good trucks & did what I needed them to do. I traded the 2018 in on my 2021 F-350 7.3 V8 10 speed . I consider the Ford a Outstanding Truck!
Heard really good things about that 7.3 with the 10 speed. not a ford guy at all but everyone really likes it. hoping to do a review/comparison on that engine in future!
Smart move. I have nothing but great things to say about the F250s Ive used as worktrucks in the fleet... Absolute anvils. The RAM 6.4s have been junk (no HEMI issues everything else doesn't hold up) and I drive them alot easier then the F250s.
I'm in the market looking at 7.3/6.8 f250 or 6.4 ram which do you like more and why? Ford seems like more bells and whistles for the money . How's the mpg of both?
Great vid Alex! Very informative, your passion for teaching is clear, and you're good at it. Have you ever thought about teaching at a technical college?
Thank you John! I have thought about it, I do think I still need a few more years in the trade to really have the experience and knowledge needed. But it is something I'm wanting to do!
@@GettysGarage Contact a local tech shool or college and find out what credentials you need to be certified. Lots of required courses you'll need are on line these days to help speed the process up!
@@johnthornton7763 I have a friend that is a multi-decadal Chrysler tech. They gave him a big raise and peer leader title to get him to stay another couple of years before retiring. He said the big difference between the "old school" guys and the new guys is how dependent the new guys are on codes and computers. He said he learned having to listen to an engine and figuring out what was wrong based upon intangibles, experience and knowledge of mechanics. He basically now days oversees his dealer's shop and is particularly good at figuring out what is going on when something happens that doesn't throw a code. He tries to teach the new guys by having them listen and then making them tell him what they think is going on. But he said, they often lack a core understanding of the "mechanics" of the systems and reach for the computer to tell them and can't figure it out without the puter. My 2015 1500 just before trading it in went out on me on the highway at speed telling me to restart...usually at 65 mph as it coasted. No codes thrown. My dealership was going to have to wait a couple of weeks for an FCA tech to come and figure it out. They didn't have a clue after three days of trying. My friend asked me how many miles on the truck, what happened when it cut off, how did it run otherwise (perfect), asked a few more questions and said, it's somewhere in the ignition system. He told me where to look first, replace a part and then go up and up and down the system if that didn't fix it. He was sure...no question, no computer. My dealer techs just looked at me like I was an alien when I told them this...
@@Redfour5 Nice story Redfour5, yes, there is no substitute for experience, but today's world of auto repair is a horse of a different color as they used to say!
Thank you for covering the exhaust manifold topic. My previous 5.7 had that issue and I had to replace the OEM with the manifolds from BD Diesel. I was curious if the 6.4 would have the same issue
Thinking of stepping up to a newer used truck. Need to look at getting something the size of our 2003 Dodge RAM 2500HD 4x4... it's a 5.7 HEMI and still operating well at 247,000 miles... I am wondering what the 6.4l is like. Thank you for the video.
Actually the 5.7 now calls for 0w-20; but guys in the know are running Redline 5w-30 which is almost as thick as a 40 weight. The thinner oil is due to fuel economy, but who care about that. And the 5.7 hemi was acutally used in the 2500's for years, so while it's obvious the 6.4 is much stronger I wouldn't worry about the 5.7 being weak as it's literally the only half ton engine that saw duty in a 3/4 ton for years; proof that even it can take abuse and keep going.
Be careful on the oil viscosity for the 5.7 as it can and will effect the running smoothness in eco mode. I was running a few different kinds of oil and could not believe it when a mechanic friend of mine told me that even different brand oils can have different flow characteristics at the same weight bands. Sure enough, I started using 5w20 Pennzoil (as factory recoed) and all of the eco mode transition issues just magically went away. The 5.7 is a great engine(I have had four of them in 14 years) with the only problem that I can see as the lifter tick/malfunction. All that being said I have now moved on to a 6.4 2500 and have been well pleased in the first 27K miles.
@@kenbaustin4533 The engine does better on thicker oil, and it loves to run with extra moly. Running 5w-20 is a good way to get lifter failure. MDS be damned, that's disabled in my truck.
@@JohnSmith-ev1sm Each to his own but my experience proved out (at least to myself after having 4 MDS engines) that the correct oil and viscosity makes all the difference between a smooth efficient MDS shift out and one that bogs down and is obnoxious. Most of the problem with lifter failures have been from those who have long periods of low rpm idling where the oil never gets splashed far enough to lube the lifters as they have no dedicated porting.
What kind of octane do you run with your 6.4 and would you recommend using the srt pennzoil that the factory uses? I plan on buying a new tradesman if that makes a difference
I've had two 1500's with the 5.7 hemi. Now with the 6.4 Hemi and admittedly the first 900 miles, one thing I am noticing is that the mileage, so far, without towing is NOT that much different than the 5.7's. I am a bit surprised. It is definitely not as good, but I'm talking about a less than 1 mpg difference... I'm hitting about 13 mpg around town 50 50 driving. My 5.7's did not do much better... AND, from the vids I'm seeing (TFL trucks etc.) I may actually do at least as well or maybe even better towing, my particular load of an 800 lb tongue weight and maybe 1700 lbs loaded travel trailer at 28 feet. I generally am in the 8.5 to 9 mpg range with the 5.7's and from what I'm seeing that at least is where the 6.4 will be...maybe better. So, I'm quite pleased, all things considered...
@@paflyer1370 That jibes with the other things I've seen and read... In my 5.7, and conditions like you describe, it was 7 and change to 9 and change always... I was at the upper end of my 5.7 with an 8K total capacity and a 1300 payload. I will be toward the bottom of the 2500 that has 3100 payload and almost 16K total capacity... More power...
Oh and my 2015 had a 3.92 rear end and the 2021 had the 3.21 and the mpg was virtually identical towing. The 3.21 just did it with more transmission and less rear end to compensate. So, that distinction is a bit specious. The 2500 is the 3.73. I'm good.
I have a 37ft travel trailer at 8600lbs dry about 9200lbs loaded. Should I get a 2022 ram 2400 6.7l Cummins or 6.4 upgraded hemi. I want the Cummins because it will be the last truck I will ever need if the Cummins is as reliable as they have been not to mention nearly double the gpm. And will most likely be my daily driver when I get home to ID in the next year.
IF, you use it hard with a lot of towing, I was told to get the 6.7. But if it's primary use was as a "daily driver" with a much smaller percentage of towing, then go with the 6.4. Diesels need to work get up to temps and hold them for like a long hard drive. It is hard on a diesel and all the subordinate parts to be turning it off and on on short drives never letting it get its feet under it with a long haul. I believe Getty Adventures addresses some of this in another video? That and what I had heard otherwise convinced me to go 6.4 gasser AND save around 7200 bucks difference between two engines.
Thanks for the repies and info. I ended up getting the 6.7 cummins. Were going to be doing a lot of traveling towing a 10k lb camper once I'm out of the miltary. And after seeing some of the tunners for the cummins and fuel economy gains even towing was part of the decision, not to mention the power behind the 6.7. This will be the last truck I buy for atleast 15 years hopefully lol. And getting back home to ID most of my daily commutes will be close to an hour 1 way depending on where we get some property, so getting the engine to temp won't be an issue. Again thanks for the replies.
What are your concerns about the MDS potentially causing lifter failures? I have a 2023 Power Wagon, and will add the Pulsar to it when they have it available for 2023..
I’d love your opinion on the tradesman base model with the 6.4. I like less fancy computer stuff. Trying to decide if I want to bail on my ford F-150 ecoboost for a 2023 2500 tradesman. I always had Cummins before this ford but I don’t tow a ton and I go a lot of miles. 80 percent daily driver no towing. Just miss my 3/4 ton suspension and less Bells and whistles truck.
Payload is 3500Lbs on my 2500HD Tradesman C.C, plus the bed is a foot longer. I truly enjoyed driving the 2.7 F150 for it's speed, not much for hauling. I got rid of a new F550 because of the design of things in the interior, so I went back to my 17 RAM 5500. Not sure outside of a Raptor if I can ever buy any 1500.
I have a 2012 srt8 with the 392 and a 2022 power wagon with the 392 can i run the same oil in them? i ally ways use Lucas oil synthetic oil! swear by it!
Im looking in to the 6 4 hemi in a 2500. I dont. Tow a whole lot to To justify The way over price Cummins diesel 😢 but if i get the 6.4 i will definitely need the mx tow package (4.10) gears. But good luck trying a fairly new used one. People order them then dont wanna give them up
I took the truck version put the cat version heads and cam in it along with intake..i aldo am running all the hellcat redeye elecrronixs..ill be using s redeye supercharger..hopefully it holds up..using dual fuel pumps alobg with big injectors..wat ya think?
I'm thinking the 2017 grand Cherokee limited headlights will possibly work on mine I'm putting in a panoramic sunroof 2 l need to get a hold of the Bilstein air setup
Hello, i am interested in a 2018 power wagon, i currently have a 2005 hemi 1/2 ton. Have always ran 89 octane because the manual says its better, can you make a video about using different octane fuel on these hemis? 87 vs 89
I liked all the advantages of the Ram 6.4L engine you pointed out. I have a 2020 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie with the 6.4L engine actually it's the second engine because the first one knocked after starting the truck. The dealer did extensive testing and found the number 8 cylinder was a problem so they replaced it with a new engine at 12550 miles. I now have 19500 miles on the new engine and have the same engine knocking after I start it for a few minutes. I tow a travel trailer that weighs about 7500 pounds and it pulls it great with no issues. The knocking is so loud that it sounds like a rod is coming through the engine block then the noise goes away and it doesn't come back until it has sat for a while and then restarted. I had a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 that I bought new and had zero problems with it for 15 years before I sold it for a little less than half what I paid for it. I believe in taking care of your vehicles and not abusing them.
sorry to hear about your first engine, that's no good. I'd be back at the dealer about the second engine knocking, sounds like an oil pressure issue if its at start up then goes away. and ya the early 2000's hemi were great engines, everyone seemed to like them
The knocking that goes away sounds like a hydraulic lifter/lash adjuster. Once oil pressure and Temps are up it'll subside. I've fixed this issue myself before. They use to run around 3.00-15.00 piece. Now they are up in the 20-make a man poor range.
@@benjaminbrown1179 Thank you so much for your response. I traded that truck in for a new one but would like to do what you suggested if the knocking comes back. Do you know of a video that show how to replace the lifter adjusters or is something a trained mechanic needs to do? You have thought the dealer and company would have done that before replacing a engine. Thank you again.
@samdorchester2524 morning! It's just a matter of removing as much as you can to get to the valve covers. The more you remove the easier it is to get into and work. Blow the top of the engine off with high pressure air once everything is out of the way, but before you remove the covers. Something in the throttle body as well. Make sure to soak all of the new lifters/lash adjusters in a jug of motor oil over night.. Same type you are using in the motor. I use a magnet to reach in and pull them out. Makes it cleaner. Rotate them around a few times to get the air out and full of oil. They make a tool to pry up on the rocker arm from the opposite side of the spring assembly. It runs around 50.00 but is well worth it if you're doing them all. Remove the spark plugs. This will allow you to turn the engine over and release the pressure on the lifter you are working on. This can be done at the crank or by turning the alternator if you leave the serpentine on. I remove the belt and just use the crank. Removing the plugs also eliminates fighting compression. The rockers pop right out, and give you easy access to pull out the bad lifters. One out new one in. Replace the rocker and done. You'll need new valve cover gaskets, and the sets come with the rubber grommets for the bolts. Just follow the proper bolt pattern and torque specs. Make sure to disconnect the battery terminals. If you are disconnecting the fuel line remove the fuel pump relay before disconnecting the battery. Turn the engine over a couple times to reduce the line pressure. Then disconnect the battery. Once the battery is disconnected go ahead and replace the relay so as to not lose it or forget it. While working inside the heads coat all of the cam lobes and the roller with a little assembly lube. Once you're back together pull the relay again on the fuel pump. Connect the battery, and turn it over in about sets of three second long starts. This will get the oil flowing and pressurize the new lifters. Replace the fuel relay and prime the system with a couple key turns on and off without starting the engine. Then start it up. Let it do its idle thing for a few minutes and then lightly bring the rpms up to around 2k until the engine is at running Temps. Check for leaks. On the passenger side it is best to just go ahead and disconnect the heater lines. Drain the coolant from the radiator and preserve it for the refill. Or replace at this time. Removing the ac compressor without disconnecting the hoses is also a great idea to get it set out of the way. Use rope to tie everything you need out of the way so it'll stay there. If you have any mechanical skills it'll be around a 2 hour job driver side and just a little longer passenger side. Good luck to you.
I can get 28 mpg in my 6.7 cummins...I gotta stay around 60.....but everyday driving I'm like 22 no matter how I drive it....only going by gage in truck not hand calculated
Looking at used gas HD trucks. In terms of reliability which one would you recommend? Unfortunately affordable ones for me start coming in at 90-130k miles I typically find rams in the style i want, how much more life would i realistically be able to get out of a truck with that many miles?
It is true that regular maintenance is key for cars and trucks but the reason a lot of these heavy duty trucks, like Chevy, ram 2500 and ford 250 are a lot better engines is do to the fact they don’t fall under certain government regulations for fuel economy.
Great video! I’ve owned two 6.4s, both work trucks, and both over 200,000 miles with no problems. Regular maintenance is the key.
Thanks for the heads up.
Maintenance is important! But yes the 6.4 are good working engines.
How frequent do you service them?
I just purchased my first power wagon. What do you recommend besides regular oil changes?
@dylangardener1580 it depends on how heavy and how much you tow. If you're just running it around, 5-6k miles would be okay. If you're towing 15k a lot, then 3k miles. I keep a ledger on oil changes. I saw a guy who haf a fleet of 5 3500 6.4l. They were pulling 16-18k lbs every mile. He was getting 350-450k miles before they needed anything
I have a 22 Ram 2500 6.4 with the 3.73 rear axle.....and I average running empty in the 16-18 mpg range. That is pretty good for a heavy truck. I pull a 35 foot 5th wheel (approx 10 1/2 k pounds) and when pulling I get 10-12 mpg. Not bad! Does goods in the hills, good off the line and just overall a great truck! Plus, it just looks so much better than the Fords and GM huge grilled boxy monsters!
I have a 1500 with the 5.7 and tow a 25' 6800 lb trailer in Michigan (no mountains). I get 7-8 mpg.
@@TheMonkdad I pull a 10,000 pound 30' camper. My 2004 Hemi with 300,000 miles avg 10 mpg pulling.
Original engine and trans.
Even original spark plugs lol
10-11 is solid tow numbers. I can’t get above 8/9.
It's just great that you cover the technical nuances! I live in another country across the ocean, and we do not have dealers for these cars, but enthusiasts who are in love with these cars bring them to themselves. I also dream of PW. And I am very interested in studying the technical details, and will stop at the most reliable option, because it is difficult to maintain - it takes a long time to wait for a spare part, there are no mechanics who know this technique well! Thank you so much!
Greatful for having found this channel, it's good to see that someone is looking and bringing more information about this motor out to others. It's quite helpful when doing research on what your wanting and should look for in a truck
thank you, I just try and talk about interesting useful info lol
Very interesting and informative video. I learned quite a bit. I have nothing but good things to say about my 6.4 hemi. It does everything I ask it to with ease. Like you said, the trans and oil temps stay right where they should. My 1500 ran hot, about 40 degrees hotter in some instances. So far I’m very pleased.
first thing I noticed when towing with the 6.4 was the temps stayed normal. didn't even move. where as the 5.7 didn't seem to like being worked for long periods of time. great engine so far!
@@GettysGarage This is an interesting observation as I experienced just the opposite on our first tow with our slightly used 2500. Coolant temps moved 30 degrees, per this information screen. Engine performed well but coolant temp was not stable.
@@steveav8r684 clean out the radiator fins
@gettysgarage Ram 6.4 hemi vs Ford 7.3l gasser. Pure reliability, which would you recommend? Towing 10-12k pounds only a handful of times a year.
My experience is that both engines are great...I never had an issue, but for me. I preferred the 5.7 as it just seemed smoother, and I liked the power band....I currently own a 2022 Power Wagon with a 6.4 and I really like it..I do miss some things about my 2019 1500 Limited......
I just traded in a relatively loaded Bighorn 1500. There is definitely a difference in ride and "refinement." But a 2500 is a true Truck vs a 5.7 that walks the line between "TRUCK" and something else... I just brought my new 2500 home from a dealer 500 miles away and so got to "break it in" right... The new one rides like a "log wagon" in comparison, but is still very refined and I always liked a stiff ride in any vehicle I have had including putting "pinks" springs on my old subaru. Those are the WRX springs. I also notice the steering is not nearly as quick or sensitive on the 2500 vs the 1500 but it still tracks wonderfully and that is the key to a long drive. The new stiffer frames on the new 1500 AND the gen 4.5 2500 is a world of difference. My 2013 and 2015 1500's tended to want to "wander" driving down the road...
Love my PW with the 6.4. It has no equal.
Great video as usual man I sure appreciate sharing all that knowledge,, I fell in love with my Olive Green 20’ Power Wagon before I knew how “Heavy Duty” she really was. I’m a huge fan of the Power Wagon, it’s been a fun truck and drives like a trophy truck!! This video like most was very educational man and I sure do appreciate you taking the time. Keep ‘em coming and enjoy that awesome truck you have there!! My 6.4 purrrrrrrs like a kitten and in the Power Wagon I can’t feel it running at idle. Runs smooth and shifts out even smoother, love this truck!
My Ram 2008 diesel burned. I bought a 6.4 3500, 2020. Tow a 13000 lb. fifth wheel. Does real well. Your video puts my mind at ease.
How is it now, about a year later?
Lol..I own a 2004 5.7 and pulls a 10,000 pound camper.
Truck has 300,000 miles
What kinda mpg are you seeing ?
@anthonymoy4471 8.5 towing. Maybe 14-15 solo. Not great.
@ralphgilson9989 14 - 15 is great 👍 my wifes 6.2 ls takes premium gas and hits 12-13mpg at cheaper fuel and same milage as a older 5.7 hemi that's good milage
I have a 5.7 1500, and I am looking forward to upgrading someday to a 3/4 ton. You have me PUMPED to be looking for a good deal on a Power Wagon! Thanks for getting into the nitty gritty details on the 6.4 engine. Cheers!
Very informative video. I have a ram 2500 with a 5.7. And yes, 2 exhaust studs broke off in the same port. That ticking drives me nuts!! I’m getting ready to fix it with a 6.4 2500. Thanks again!!
yes the dreaded 5.7 exhaust manifold leak, good news is they are catastrophic by any means just annoying lol. thankfully the 6.4 rarely every has that issue.
@@GettysGarage "...NOT catastrophic..." correct?
Correct.
Factory fix zero cost on the exhaust studs.
Bore sizes 5.7 3.920 6.4 4.090 5.7 stroke 3.58 6.4 stroke 3.72. The differences between 6.4s compression ratios camshafts tuning. Yes tuning don’t forget the 6.4s have the super cool variable intake manifold. To the hypereutectic pistons there fine I don’t recommend nitrous. To superchargers on truck engines it takes extra tuning you should get a hold of someone like hemifever or Jay green. Why last I heard numbers around 175-180 of cranking compression in those HEMIs. In the late 90s 150-160 was cranking compression was pretty common
Out of all the engines gas and diesel, I decided on a 2021 PW 6.4! I have a SRT Challenger 6.4 that is amazing. Nice video and made me feel good about my choice of the Power Wagon. I’ve subscribed and 👍🏼’d
Just got a 2024 Power Wagon and appreciate the info on the engine. Lots of technology shared with aviation, sodium pistons, Forged cranks.
sold my 1500 and am super happy with the truck!! Thanks again
I just upgraded to the 2021 6.4 Ram deff my truck for work
I’ve owned my Ram 2500 with the 6.4 for over 7 years and put over 100,000 miles on it. I’ve kept up with the maintenance schedule and changed the oil every 7k miles. The truck averages 12 mpg all day. The best mpg was 16 average over 2000 miles with no trailer.
Only gripe I have is the noise the engine makes. It sounds like a typewriter and it’s almost necessary to swap out the muffler.
Thanks for doing this video. Im looking at a 2012 2500 with the 6.4. But as soon as i see hemi i get nervous. Never owned one. Only hear nad things on the 5.7. Havent hesrd much on the 6.4.
Great trucks.
I have a 5.7 with 300,000 miles..
Pulls a 10,000 pound camper with ease
I hear you on the ticking. Had a 2012 Ram 1500 and we went on a camping trip and when we were on the way back home check over the truck before hooking it up to the trailer. That is when I heard the tick, at first I was thinking it’s the lifters that’s when I check the exhaust manifold bolts and they were spinning. When I found that I was a little relieved cause I wasn’t about to have a engine rebuild.
Thank you so much for the information on BIG Gas engine that DODGE offered. In the pickup. That it takes 40 wht. Oil. My 353 Detroit Diesel uses 40 Wht. Thick oil. I keep it plugged in with block heater. I was looking at Dodge with Cummins but the $9000 dollar mark up, just too, to much. Thank you for having a big GAS block, towing on your trip, showing the Engine Temp's and pressure. Very helpful for me. I want a
8 foot bed. For me a must. The screen on Dodge is so large, must have GPS for me.
Can now price the Big block Gas engine instead of Diesel, on getting prices from Dealers.
Interesting how the 6.4 BGE and 6.4 SRT are not the same as they serve different purposes. More interesting is that the 5.7 used in the trucks and the 5.7 used in the cars seems to be the exact same engine. That's a bit disturbing as tow ratings seem to be growing on the half ton trucks. So glad I made the decision to go with a 2500 with the 6.4 for towing. Absolutely love it. Great Vid!
Yup pretty much what I saw. The 5.7 is basicly the same across the board. Whereas the 6.4 is a bit more purpose built which is nice to see. I mean the 5.7 is still a great engine but I would be cautious buying it and loaded it up day in and day out
@@GettysGarage I am still kicking myself for not buying a 74 Subaru Turbo to save 15 bucks a month as I towed a pop up with a Forester... That year ONLY, the Subaru used a "detuned" WRX block etc. vs later years when they used an uptuned regular 2.4 block. I thought it was interesting when you noted that the 6.4 was essentially a detuned SRT 392/6.4. Robust comes to mind as an overarching concept.
@@GettysGaragelol.
300,000 miles on my 5.7.
2004 Ram Hemi.
Almost all original..
Still has original spark plugs..
And it pulls a 10,000 pound camper
To be fair the 5.7 hemi was originally built back in 03 as a truck engine with truck use in mind
@rdallas81 I just pulled my spark plugs for the 2nd time in my 04 hemi I've had since new.. you should change the plugs I'm at 210,000 miles the hemi and coil packs and water pump are begging for help I bet
93 octane is everything on these engines. Both run & tow better smoother & more consistent with 93. Mpg vs cost of gas right now is very similar but I’d rather have the better performance in any situation. If you run lower gas try the 93 & you’ll immediately tell the difference. Thanks for the video, have & love them both!!
I 2nd this man I went from regular to 93 and it completely changed the whole performance on the truck I used 93 and a cleaner to get the gunk out after I bought it and it was a whole different truck on 93
Major difference! I’ll 3rd that!
I have 2015 Ram with 6.4. At 50,009 miles I had a ticking problem. Took it to the shop replaced lifters.
I hear lifter failure is common in these engines.
3,000 $ later I’m back on the road with fingers crossed!
Great video on the differences between 5.7 and 6.4.
Incredible technical overview.
The sodium filled exhaust valves are something I would have never known about.
I just got a 2024 2500 with the 6.4, I traded in my 1500 with the 3.6 cuntastar. All I can say is, this truck is a beast.
What kinda milage are you seeing ?
I went from a 16 Cummins to a 19 Pentastar. I didn’t need the diesel for towing anymore. I hated the Pentastar and got rid of it. I had the 3.21 rear so maybe that was the issue. Never got the epa estimate unless I was under 65, flat ground and not using cruise. Then, it would constantly shift out of 8th, 7th, 6th on any incline. Constant shifts just drove me crazy.
Just one minor addition about the 5.7L which comes with a liquid cooled oil cooler when ordered with the Police Package.
As an aircraft mechanic I can tel you, aircraft grade means nothing my friend. Great video!
Been an A/P tech for 25 years now retired and i can say NSA and AN hardware are much better than any automotive hardware, so yes aircraft grade does mean something, and no i never worked on general aviation, commerical and military only.
@@mattottie6410 you’re talking about hardware, I’m talking about airplanes. NSA/ AN hardware come from numerous different vendors with varying degrees of quality. But good for you for liking your job I guess
Same here. Everything is "aircraft material/aluminum "
As an A&P and degreed materials engineer (metallurgist), if the exhaust manifold fasteners are indeed aircraft garde, then there is a difference. Aircraft material specs require cleaner alloy chemistry. If a supplier is providing sub-spec hardware, then bad on them and the company accepting it and not performing audits.
It was a joke…
Good stuff dude. Straight to the point no bs liked and subscribed
Both exhaust manifolds cracked on my 2019 1500 at about 40k miles. Replaced under warranty and I'm coming up on 80k now. I hope they don't repeat.
Found it informative I have a 2017 pw with 130k on the odometer and 1,000 idle hours it’s still going strong
My 5.7 has 300,000
Would u do a hemi, 7.3, or 6.6 gas for long term?
Excellent video again. Very informative. I want a Powerwagon even more now to tow my 31’ Airstream Classic. My Ram 1500 does tow it very well but out west through Teton Pass I had to pull over several times due to starting to over heat.
I didnt end up pulling over when I ran the mountains but I certainly had to drop my speed because the truck was going to over heat lol. Nothing wrong with the 1500's great trucks but the PW is so much more comfortable towing.
Be sure and look at your payload if you are going to tow with a Power Wagon. A fully loaded power wagon ONLY has as little as a 1000 lb payload. That made me go with a regular 2500 Laramie. It is not an intrinsic function of the truck to have a lower payload, but the set up of the suspension on a power wagon, I hear. I'd like to hear "Getty Adventures" address this issue...
Ford did the new class leading 7.3 gas. GM did the new 6.6. Ram should update & open up the class lagging 6.4 to the 7.0 liters the block was designed for. That’s right a 426 Hemi.
Not for high rpm horsepower but for especially more & a broader lower rpm torque curve. This would come with the stroke & cubes. It would not use anymore fuel until it was asked for more power than the 6.4 makes.
Speaking of power it could easily support a class leading 440HP and a competitive 470-475 ish torque. No doubt trade ins & sales would soar.
@@GettysGarage I take new AS from plant to dealerships with my 1500 Ram with lil 3.0 liter Econ diesel. 880,000 miles now. 480 TQ 8 speed 3.92 it moves them ok even the 8k 33 Classic. With the turbo brake & factory trailer brake controller it controls speed down grades and stops ok. But needs WDH with built in sway control, axle to frame air bags, & XL load tires to handle the weight well.
Lol would you trade in your 6.4/392 for a 426 Hemi?
I'm considering gas for my next truck. 2012 Cummins I have now is running just great. But for what I do now with my daily I don't think I need to put another $10k in a new truck to get the diesel, and the extra payload in a gas truck suits me better than towing power. I had a 2004 1500 Hemi I bought new back then. That engine was fantastic. Had it 81,000 miles and never had an issue. Actually I think for that whole truck it needed one wheel bearing and a pinion seal in that time. 2012 has had several more repairs, but I'm also at almost 150k.
I have a 2004 Hemi. Laramie edition 4 door.
Has 300,000 Miles. Has original spark plugs.
Replaced fuel pump, power steering rack, axles and diff stubs.
Haha!!! Glad you said only did research and don’t work on engine!!! I’m owner of 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 5.7 Hemi with near 290,000 miles! Great all around engine and I’m thinking of swap to 6.4 Hemi!!!
Now I’m in Missouri I uses 5-20W in winter, 10-30W in spring and fall season and 20-50W in summer months or when towing long trips.
My 3/4 ton truck when I open the open with grill goes up, there’s all kinds of coolant radiators haha!!! When you mention about oil temp on your 1500 well I don’t know what it gots but my oil temp or pressure does change much under heavy loads.
“Does not change much”
300,000 miles on my 2004 Laramie 4 door.
5 w 30 summer and winter.
I pull a 10,000 pound 30' camper
My brother went through 3 engines in his ram over a 2.5 year span, he's a journeyman mechanic and didn't tow or give it a hard time. I had a 6.0 chev at the same time and I beat the shit out of it and drove off road frequently for my gf to take pictures of the coastline....Never had a problem with it(tie rods and leaf springs.....like alot of them). Still ran smooth with 375k on her when I sold it
He probably idled alot, hemis shouldn't idle for long periods
Great video. Ty!
What about changes/upgrades, over the years? A lot of us, can't afford a brand new truck. I'd be looking for a used one.
Oh and great video. Thanks for the good information.
Very informative. I only run 5w30 PUP. With gas hitting 1.70/L, in glad i have the 5.7!
I can't believe the prices, starting to get very disheartening. I knew this truck was not fuel efficient but when I bought it in November gas was like 1.25 tomorrow the pumps will apparently be north of 1.80 in my area
@@GettysGarage I hear ya. In 3 or 4 more years, I'm planning make the jump to 2500 or 3500 hemi 6.4. I'll be doing it mainly for the payload.
@@GettysGarage Well in Manitoba today we hit 189.9. There saying 2 bucks in April. For you in BC would be worse. Dang….. nice video as usual. Cheers
@@ramrider1453 diesel was 2.29 today in my town. wild times. we are in for a world of hurt I'm afraid
my 6.4 2500 with the 8 speed transmission gets the same MPG as my old 5.7 1500
You were damn close on the piston pronunciation Getty ! Pronounced - HYPER - YOU - TEKTIK You rock dude thanks for the vid ! Cheers
*I should add, if anyone's curious, hypereutectic pistons are aluminum with added materials to reduce the thermal expansion of a normal piston, so tighter tolerances can be achieved.
I tried lol and yes that's what I read. Just thought it was a pretty cool feature!
Great video. Just to get technical, the addition of silicon to reduce the thermal expansion of the aluminum pistons is correct but it's not silicone. Silicone is a synthetic polymer used to make moldable silicone rubber (an elastomer) to make silicone rubber products. Silicon is a solid element added to aluminum during the alloying process of aluminum. Silicon is also used in electronic circuits. Silicon and silicone are two different things. ("con" as in "convict", and "cone" as in "traffic cone") A very common mistake. Yes, this is an old post, but I just had to chime in anyway.😎
Very good explanation about the 6.4. Bill from Linglestown, Pennsylvania
Thank you sir! Happy you liked it
Great video man, love the technical stuff.
Thank you sir!
My 2008 5.7 Hemi 1500 has the tow package-4.10 gears, 4-spd auto, oil coiler, trans cooler all from factory.
Thought that was 4 speed with overdrive-
Maybe they removed the overdrive for the tow package
I Have a 2004 Laramie 5.7 is 4 speed with overdrive
Looking to purchase a ram next couple weeks. Was hung up on purchasing a diesel for our travel trailer & boat but I believe the gas engine will be fine. I’m in California so Diesel prices suck.
Your fuel prices suck too. You are paying twice what I pay so the illegals can have all those “free” goodies. Enjoy!
Direct injection? Cylinder deactivation? Thanks.
looking at buying 2014, 2500 with the gas 6.4, do you think its just as good as the new rams truck?
Exellent presentation!
how about the lifters going bad chewing up the cams at about 150K miles? since looking at buying a new truck I have started hearing about this.
Great video. Thanks for the information. More videos like this please.
Hey I think Ram 2500 with 6.4 is overall heavy duty truck with great looks. I wanted a heavy duty truck. Very interesting video.
thank you sir!
Thicker oil only means it doesn't have as tight of tolerances. Tighter tolerances require thinner oil to allow the oil to get to those tight spaces. It's the same exact oil in terms of film strength and additives, just fits in smaller spaces.
Our 6.7 fords run 10 30 im pretty sure that’s to light for a diesel but it never gets to hot
@gettysgarage Ram 6.4 hemi vs Ford 7.3 gasser. Pure reliability, which would you recommend? Towing 10-12k pounds only a handful of times a year.
Great info! Love your vids as much as I love my 2020 PW
Thank you sir. The PW is a rocking truck
Hello Alex, first time commenting on your videos. I enjoy your videos for being informative and reliable for stating actual facts instead of fake news just for the reviews. But first off, I want to say I just purchased a 2023 Ram Power Wagon that just came into the dealership 2 days ago. They offered me 15% off the sticker and then just to get it off the lot another $3500.00 for a total of $16,200.00 of the sticker. I really was not looking for a power wagon, but I could not pass up the deal.
Just wanted to ask you do you run 93octane in your truck? And suggestions on a adding any accessories on this truck for better performance or gas mileage, looks? When you need new tires are you going to change from the off-road tires to something a little quieter? Thanks for your time. Keep the videos going.
I know these questions were posed for Alex, but I hope you don’t mind that I’m going to respond.
First and foremost, congratulations on the truck. Power Wagons are amazing and it sounds like you got a great price.
In reference to the octane rating of the fuel, you should always run midgrade fuel in your 6.4 L. Regular fuel can be utilized, but in the event that the engine experiences preignition (Detonation), the knock sensors will trigger the ECM to retard your ignition timing, saving your engines life but reducing power output by detuning the ignition curve. While mid grade (89 octane near sea level) is recommended and 87 or regular octane is permissible, 93 octane should not offer any performance gain over 89 octane as the compression ratio does not dictate a need for an octane rating greater than 89. You could probably get away with 87 at higher elevations.
In so far as modifications to the vehicle, every power wagon should be running a 35 inch tire, minimum. The factory Goodyear duratracs are relatively quiet, and I don’t believe that any self-respecting power wagon owner would go less aggressive than the factory tire.
Congratulations again on the truck, God bless.
@@proudamerican5518 thanks for the helpful information, be blessed
Great video my friend! Like you, I very much like my 6.4 RAM.
The trick is to graft fiberglass panels of my bed and graft them to new 60/40gate taneau package 2020 or so bed to look 01 and maybe the storage bins
I had a 2014 Ram 2500 5.7 & a 2018 6.4 Ram 2500. They were both good trucks & did what I needed them to do. I traded the 2018 in on my 2021 F-350 7.3 V8 10 speed . I consider the Ford a Outstanding Truck!
Heard really good things about that 7.3 with the 10 speed. not a ford guy at all but everyone really likes it. hoping to do a review/comparison on that engine in future!
Smart move. I have nothing but great things to say about the F250s Ive used as worktrucks in the fleet... Absolute anvils. The RAM 6.4s have been junk (no HEMI issues everything else doesn't hold up) and I drive them alot easier then the F250s.
I'm in the market looking at 7.3/6.8 f250 or 6.4 ram which do you like more and why? Ford seems like more bells and whistles for the money . How's the mpg of both?
Great vid Alex! Very informative, your passion for teaching is clear, and you're good at it. Have you ever thought about teaching at a technical college?
Thank you John! I have thought about it, I do think I still need a few more years in the trade to really have the experience and knowledge needed. But it is something I'm wanting to do!
@@GettysGarage Contact a local tech shool or college and find out what credentials you need to be certified. Lots of required courses you'll need are on line these days to help speed the process up!
@@johnthornton7763 I have a friend that is a multi-decadal Chrysler tech. They gave him a big raise and peer leader title to get him to stay another couple of years before retiring. He said the big difference between the "old school" guys and the new guys is how dependent the new guys are on codes and computers. He said he learned having to listen to an engine and figuring out what was wrong based upon intangibles, experience and knowledge of mechanics. He basically now days oversees his dealer's shop and is particularly good at figuring out what is going on when something happens that doesn't throw a code. He tries to teach the new guys by having them listen and then making them tell him what they think is going on. But he said, they often lack a core understanding of the "mechanics" of the systems and reach for the computer to tell them and can't figure it out without the puter.
My 2015 1500 just before trading it in went out on me on the highway at speed telling me to restart...usually at 65 mph as it coasted. No codes thrown. My dealership was going to have to wait a couple of weeks for an FCA tech to come and figure it out. They didn't have a clue after three days of trying. My friend asked me how many miles on the truck, what happened when it cut off, how did it run otherwise (perfect), asked a few more questions and said, it's somewhere in the ignition system. He told me where to look first, replace a part and then go up and up and down the system if that didn't fix it. He was sure...no question, no computer. My dealer techs just looked at me like I was an alien when I told them this...
@@Redfour5 Nice story Redfour5, yes, there is no substitute for experience, but today's world of auto repair is a horse of a different color as they used to say!
Great thourow explanation, thank you
Thank you for covering the exhaust manifold topic. My previous 5.7 had that issue and I had to replace the OEM with the manifolds from BD Diesel. I was curious if the 6.4 would have the same issue
I see that you used Mobil1 0w40 on an oil change with your power wagon. What helped you make that decision ?
Really like your truck!
How many miles are they good for reliably if taken care of
Thinking of stepping up to a newer used truck. Need to look at getting something the size of our 2003 Dodge RAM 2500HD 4x4... it's a 5.7 HEMI and still operating well at 247,000 miles... I am wondering what the 6.4l is like. Thank you for the video.
I have 2004 Laramie..
4×4.
300,000 miles now.
Original spark plugs.
Great explanation- thanks for sharing
Actually the 5.7 now calls for 0w-20; but guys in the know are running Redline 5w-30 which is almost as thick as a 40 weight. The thinner oil is due to fuel economy, but who care about that. And the 5.7 hemi was acutally used in the 2500's for years, so while it's obvious the 6.4 is much stronger I wouldn't worry about the 5.7 being weak as it's literally the only half ton engine that saw duty in a 3/4 ton for years; proof that even it can take abuse and keep going.
Absolutely! The 5.7 is a great engine. Loved mine and it will handle loads. And interesting I didnt know the 5.7 changed their oil. Makes sense!
351 windsors were used with fords 3/4 and 1 ton trucks in the early 90s as well as the 1/2 tons.
Be careful on the oil viscosity for the 5.7 as it can and will effect the running smoothness in eco mode. I was running a few different kinds of oil and could not believe it when a mechanic friend of mine told me that even different brand oils can have different flow characteristics at the same weight bands. Sure enough, I started using 5w20 Pennzoil (as factory recoed) and all of the eco mode transition issues just magically went away. The 5.7 is a great engine(I have had four of them in 14 years) with the only problem that I can see as the lifter tick/malfunction. All that being said I have now moved on to a 6.4 2500 and have been well pleased in the first 27K miles.
@@kenbaustin4533 The engine does better on thicker oil, and it loves to run with extra moly. Running 5w-20 is a good way to get lifter failure. MDS be damned, that's disabled in my truck.
@@JohnSmith-ev1sm Each to his own but my experience proved out (at least to myself after having 4 MDS engines) that the correct oil and viscosity makes all the difference between a smooth efficient MDS shift out and one that bogs down and is obnoxious. Most of the problem with lifter failures have been from those who have long periods of low rpm idling where the oil never gets splashed far enough to lube the lifters as they have no dedicated porting.
I think the 5.7 can take the same cam as a 6.4 and I think it can also take the 6.4 crank and the hell cat oil pump fits the 5.7
oil pump for sure can fit in the 5.7. maybe the crank, not too sure
Which one will leak first is it 6.4 or 5.7? and wiich is more reliable 6.4 or 6.7?
What kind of octane do you run with your 6.4 and would you recommend using the srt pennzoil that the factory uses? I plan on buying a new tradesman if that makes a difference
do this engine got cylinder desactivation?
Nice video keep ‘em coming! It may not be “fuel efficient “ but I had a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6l that didn’t do much better than my 2021 ram 6.4 🤣
Ya funny how these engines dispite being big gas guzzlers are actually kind of efficient compared to V8's of the past
I've had two 1500's with the 5.7 hemi. Now with the 6.4 Hemi and admittedly the first 900 miles, one thing I am noticing is that the mileage, so far, without towing is NOT that much different than the 5.7's. I am a bit surprised. It is definitely not as good, but I'm talking about a less than 1 mpg difference... I'm hitting about 13 mpg around town 50 50 driving. My 5.7's did not do much better... AND, from the vids I'm seeing (TFL trucks etc.) I may actually do at least as well or maybe even better towing, my particular load of an 800 lb tongue weight and maybe 1700 lbs loaded travel trailer at 28 feet. I generally am in the 8.5 to 9 mpg range with the 5.7's and from what I'm seeing that at least is where the 6.4 will be...maybe better. So, I'm quite pleased, all things considered...
@@Redfour5 I tow a 7500 lbs travel trailer and get anywhere between 8-13 mpg depending on hills, wind, traffic with my 6.4
@@paflyer1370 That jibes with the other things I've seen and read... In my 5.7, and conditions like you describe, it was 7 and change to 9 and change always... I was at the upper end of my 5.7 with an 8K total capacity and a 1300 payload. I will be toward the bottom of the 2500 that has 3100 payload and almost 16K total capacity... More power...
Oh and my 2015 had a 3.92 rear end and the 2021 had the 3.21 and the mpg was virtually identical towing. The 3.21 just did it with more transmission and less rear end to compensate. So, that distinction is a bit specious. The 2500 is the 3.73. I'm good.
I have a 37ft travel trailer at 8600lbs dry about 9200lbs loaded. Should I get a 2022 ram 2400 6.7l Cummins or 6.4 upgraded hemi. I want the Cummins because it will be the last truck I will ever need if the Cummins is as reliable as they have been not to mention nearly double the gpm. And will most likely be my daily driver when I get home to ID in the next year.
IF, you use it hard with a lot of towing, I was told to get the 6.7. But if it's primary use was as a "daily driver" with a much smaller percentage of towing, then go with the 6.4. Diesels need to work get up to temps and hold them for like a long hard drive. It is hard on a diesel and all the subordinate parts to be turning it off and on on short drives never letting it get its feet under it with a long haul. I believe Getty Adventures addresses some of this in another video? That and what I had heard otherwise convinced me to go 6.4 gasser AND save around 7200 bucks difference between two engines.
I do transport with a 2022 ram 2500 6.4 and I tow 5000 too 13000 pound travel trailer no problem my friend
Thanks for the repies and info. I ended up getting the 6.7 cummins. Were going to be doing a lot of traveling towing a 10k lb camper once I'm out of the miltary. And after seeing some of the tunners for the cummins and fuel economy gains even towing was part of the decision, not to mention the power behind the 6.7. This will be the last truck I buy for atleast 15 years hopefully lol. And getting back home to ID most of my daily commutes will be close to an hour 1 way depending on where we get some property, so getting the engine to temp won't be an issue. Again thanks for the replies.
Would love a 7.3 Godzilla but still hearing about engine failures
What are your concerns about the MDS potentially causing lifter failures? I have a 2023 Power Wagon, and will add the Pulsar to it when they have it available for 2023..
From the research I've done.. excessive idle causes the lifter issues. Not the MDS system.
love these videos...had a 2016 ram 1500 and now have a 2018 power wagon so iam sort of invested 😂
sounds like my life lol had a 2017 1500 and now a 2022 PW lol
Informative . Would my2017 be the same?
Yep the engines are basicly the same from its debut in 2014
Do you know anything about injector issues on the 6.4 2024 year power wagon
I’d love your opinion on the tradesman base model with the 6.4. I like less fancy computer stuff. Trying to decide if I want to bail on my ford F-150 ecoboost for a 2023
2500 tradesman. I always had Cummins before this ford but I don’t tow a ton and I go a lot of miles. 80 percent daily driver no towing. Just miss my 3/4 ton suspension and less Bells and whistles truck.
Payload is 3500Lbs on my 2500HD Tradesman C.C, plus the bed is a foot longer. I truly enjoyed driving the 2.7 F150 for it's speed, not much for hauling. I got rid of a new F550 because of the design of things in the interior, so I went back to my 17 RAM 5500. Not sure outside of a Raptor if I can ever buy any 1500.
I’ve got the 3.5 ecoboost and keep looking at the ram 2500 but not sure what to do. I may keep the ford for a year or 2
I wish you would have touched on the lifter cam problem
What year is your truck and what years does all this apply to?
What is the name and brand of the winch on your truck?
Would like know the difference between the truck 5.7 rated at 390 hp and the grand cherokee 5.7 rated at 360hp .
I have a 2012 srt8 with the 392 and a 2022 power wagon with the 392 can i run the same oil in them? i ally ways use Lucas oil synthetic oil! swear by it!
Im looking in to the 6 4 hemi in a 2500. I dont. Tow a whole lot to To justify
The way over price Cummins diesel 😢 but if i get the 6.4 i will definitely need the mx tow package (4.10) gears. But good luck trying a fairly new used one. People order them then dont wanna give them up
Great video, just need to work on Um's
Is the ram 2500 decently reliable? Thinking of buying a 2016 or new. Do they have transmission problems
Get a 2019 or later they have the bulletproof 8 speed zf trans
@@ChaoticDave69my 2017 had the 8 speed
@@bryanmiller5692your 2500 did?
I took the truck version put the cat version heads and cam in it along with intake..i aldo am running all the hellcat redeye elecrronixs..ill be using s redeye supercharger..hopefully it holds up..using dual fuel pumps alobg with big injectors..wat ya think?
Im thinking the 17 eco diesel in my gen2 5.2 xtra cab 4x4. I didn't wanna lose the old style 4x4 shifter
2016 Dodge Ram 2500 with Gas engine. Is that a dependable year with the gas motor and transmission?
Did the 6.4 truck get the SRT oil pump?
I'm thinking the 2017 grand Cherokee limited headlights will possibly work on mine I'm putting in a panoramic sunroof 2 l need to get a hold of the Bilstein air setup
Please review the Colorado 2.8L diesel.
What year was your Ram 1500? I have a 2020 Classic Tradesman 5.7 Hemi and it has a factory oil cooler with lines running to the oil filter housing.
Hello, i am interested in a 2018 power wagon, i currently have a 2005 hemi 1/2 ton. Have always ran 89 octane because the manual says its better, can you make a video about using different octane fuel on these hemis? 87 vs 89
I liked all the advantages of the Ram 6.4L engine you pointed out. I have a 2020 Dodge Ram 2500 Laramie with the 6.4L engine actually it's the second engine because the first one knocked after starting the truck. The dealer did extensive testing and found the number 8 cylinder was a problem so they replaced it with a new engine at 12550 miles. I now have 19500 miles on the new engine and have the same engine knocking after I start it for a few minutes. I tow a travel trailer that weighs about 7500 pounds and it pulls it great with no issues. The knocking is so loud that it sounds like a rod is coming through the engine block then the noise goes away and it doesn't come back until it has sat for a while and then restarted. I had a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 that I bought new and had zero problems with it for 15 years before I sold it for a little less than half what I paid for it. I believe in taking care of your vehicles and not abusing them.
sorry to hear about your first engine, that's no good. I'd be back at the dealer about the second engine knocking, sounds like an oil pressure issue if its at start up then goes away. and ya the early 2000's hemi were great engines, everyone seemed to like them
The knocking that goes away sounds like a hydraulic lifter/lash adjuster. Once oil pressure and Temps are up it'll subside. I've fixed this issue myself before. They use to run around 3.00-15.00 piece. Now they are up in the 20-make a man poor range.
@@benjaminbrown1179 Thank you so much for your response. I traded that truck in for a new one but would like to do what you suggested if the knocking comes back. Do you know of a video that show how to replace the lifter adjusters or is something a trained mechanic needs to do? You have thought the dealer and company would have done that before replacing a engine. Thank you again.
@samdorchester2524 morning! It's just a matter of removing as much as you can to get to the valve covers. The more you remove the easier it is to get into and work. Blow the top of the engine off with high pressure air once everything is out of the way, but before you remove the covers. Something in the throttle body as well. Make sure to soak all of the new lifters/lash adjusters in a jug of motor oil over night.. Same type you are using in the motor. I use a magnet to reach in and pull them out. Makes it cleaner. Rotate them around a few times to get the air out and full of oil.
They make a tool to pry up on the rocker arm from the opposite side of the spring assembly. It runs around 50.00 but is well worth it if you're doing them all. Remove the spark plugs. This will allow you to turn the engine over and release the pressure on the lifter you are working on. This can be done at the crank or by turning the alternator if you leave the serpentine on. I remove the belt and just use the crank. Removing the plugs also eliminates fighting compression. The rockers pop right out, and give you easy access to pull out the bad lifters. One out new one in. Replace the rocker and done. You'll need new valve cover gaskets, and the sets come with the rubber grommets for the bolts. Just follow the proper bolt pattern and torque specs. Make sure to disconnect the battery terminals. If you are disconnecting the fuel line remove the fuel pump relay before disconnecting the battery. Turn the engine over a couple times to reduce the line pressure. Then disconnect the battery. Once the battery is disconnected go ahead and replace the relay so as to not lose it or forget it. While working inside the heads coat all of the cam lobes and the roller with a little assembly lube. Once you're back together pull the relay again on the fuel pump. Connect the battery, and turn it over in about sets of three second long starts. This will get the oil flowing and pressurize the new lifters. Replace the fuel relay and prime the system with a couple key turns on and off without starting the engine. Then start it up. Let it do its idle thing for a few minutes and then lightly bring the rpms up to around 2k until the engine is at running Temps. Check for leaks.
On the passenger side it is best to just go ahead and disconnect the heater lines. Drain the coolant from the radiator and preserve it for the refill. Or replace at this time. Removing the ac compressor without disconnecting the hoses is also a great idea to get it set out of the way. Use rope to tie everything you need out of the way so it'll stay there. If you have any mechanical skills it'll be around a 2 hour job driver side and just a little longer passenger side. Good luck to you.
Define fuel efficiency in any 2500 or up truck and you will be a God amongst men. It's like oil and water, both liquid but will never mix
lmao so true. I will say my buddy with a 2004 4wd 5.9 cummins runs at 28mpg. but now a days no way.
I can get 28 mpg in my 6.7 cummins...I gotta stay around 60.....but everyday driving I'm like 22 no matter how I drive it....only going by gage in truck not hand calculated
Better than* not better then. Sorry, Im being that guy 😂 Loved the video though!
Can either of the etorque systems be turned up at all? Can it charge up the 17 Pacifica ev battery? Is 100lbs heavier than 2 4d 12volts
Looking at used gas HD trucks. In terms of reliability which one would you recommend? Unfortunately affordable ones for me start coming in at 90-130k miles
I typically find rams in the style i want, how much more life would i realistically be able to get out of a truck with that many miles?
Hi
I have question
What do you think about installing propane kit on ram 2500 6,4 hemi?
It is true that regular maintenance is key for cars and trucks but the reason a lot of these heavy duty trucks, like Chevy, ram 2500 and ford 250 are a lot better engines is do to the fact they don’t fall under certain government regulations for fuel economy.
Are pistons pressed pin, or free floating?