I found a low mile 300L for $4500. I threw $4000 at it to make it my perfect unicorn. It's still $4000 less than a stock 350EXC...and it's more reliable. 550 tune makes everything smooth on throttle.
That’s exactly what I did. Bought a 300L Rally for $5000 then put $4000 in suspension, exhaust, ECU etc and it’s incredible now. $9k in and I don’t regret it for a second
I've done 5000 km on my 2023 CRF300L too. Mostly backroads, city commuting, Romanian TET once. I have some comments on this review. 1. I never had a flame out, not even single one. I've heard that it happens either with blocked PAIR and stock ECU expecting that extra air in closed loop mixture control, or during jumps it cuts out thanks to weak side stand return spring triggering side stand switch. 2. I had not experienced jerky/snappy throttle. However throttle cables were far too loose from factory so I adjusted these for minimum play right when I bought the bike. Also I've heard complains at jerky throttle only from 2021 model year owners, never from other 2023 owners. Maybe Honda resolved the issue and even stock ECU firmware update would fix that. That may solve the flameout issue too if it happens on stock bike. 3. I don't see any reason for tool less seat removal. I've barely ever had reason to remove the seat as there is nothing but fuse box under the seat. I had never blown a fuse yet. 4. Speaking of seat, I find the stock seat very uncomfortable. That's my biggest con for the review. I had to take it to local upholstery shop to improve it otherwise I could not ride it for a week straight on TET. The only aftermarket seat available now is SeatConcepts. However, it is at reasonable cost only in USA. They have no production or even a storage in Europe nor Australia, so they ship each seat individually at ridiculous cost overseas. The seat costs $620 when you order it in Europe. I hope for a non-US competitor to emerge eventually. 5. Stock suspension is really unacceptable. My rear shock was bouncing full swing even on bumpy paved road. Dangerous. I've ordered better shock after the first ride. 6. Some people complains at weak front brake. It could use stronger more bity brake on road, but I find this bite-less brake perfect for offroad use as it's easily controllable on any surface.
I've heard many complain about these flame outs. I have 2000 miles on my 300l and haven't had that happen at all, not once! I think this was a solid review...Spot on with the suspension comments...I'm still on the stock suspension and need to upgrade as it's limiting my fun with the stock tires and suspension...Thank you!
The exhaust and Ecu is well worth it and you are definitely gonna be satisfied. The bike is spicy and just runs better. I did a full Yoshi and 550 Performance stage 1. I couldn't be happier and it's such an easy modification. Cheers from Chicago!
That's the plan! Too bad full Yoshi is over 1000 € in the european region now.. It used to be available at around 700 € but those days are over I guess 🤨
I do love mine, it's hilarious. Probably going to tune it at some point because I always do. I do limited off road but, I feel its ease of use will make that easier. It's a mobern bike as well, efi, gear indicator, shift light, fuel gauge, stuff that would piss me off if absent, since I'm used to modern motorcycles.
Good Video i have owned a crf300l before I changed to Husky 701.. Ifully agree on all the things that you mentioned.. The jerkyness got smoother by taking the snorkle away from the airbox and had the full Yoshimura installed otherwise stock. The adventure spec minifaring helped abit on the highway speeds.
A bit late on this older thread, but I just got my CRF 300 rally. I have done a Ktech shock swap and agree that it is just a totally different animal with the improved suspension. I have also installed a full Yoshi exhaust (ECU flash from 550 on the way) + deleted the PAIR/smog crap. This helps with the jerky throttle a good bit, but did not eliminate it, hopefully the ECU flash helps even more. The bike breathes a lot better, and is only marginally louder. It really isnt much louder at all with the Yoshi. Also the 5k "rattle" is nearly gone with the PAIR deletion. As to the "flame out" issue - I have a North American bike and never had this problem. not once, with or without the smog junk.
Good points! I've also noticed the "flameout" when starting to move. I've adapted this same technique as with smaller 2-stroke bikes, when you have to kind of "blip" the throttle when releasing clutch so that the bike won't stall. It works great with CRF also. 😁 Think I'd enjoy the bike little bit more with slightly higher range, but of course that can be fixed with aftermarket fuel tank. 👍
Thanks a lot for this video ! I was looking to this bike as a less expensive option (and less powerful too...) than the KTM 690. And after listening to your advice, I'll definetly go with the CRF 300 + rally tower (awesome look) + Ohlins (back and front) + Acerbis tank and maybe another exhaust. And that will be the perfect bike for traveling through Marocco by tracks. Not sure less power is a big deal : I travel light, I'm light (5.7ft and 62kg), and I'm not looking for races. Thanks again ! You made my day.
Thanks for the comment! CRF is awesome for exactly what you described. Its a loyal workhorse that you can and need to be able to trust in those places 🙂 And I havent found a place where I could not get this bike and myself out of.
You make a great point in that this bike allows you to use 100% of the power, which makes riding much more enjoyable. So many have high horsepower bikes and are never able to make use of that power, but do have to carry that power all the time. Agree w/ the dash buttons... poor design. Impossible to press with accuracy when wearing gloves.
Being able to use full throttle for more than a few seconds...managing momentum..being able to tuck in body parts creating less drag and notice increasing speeds. Whether on a 883 Sportster with 35HP or a vintage 27 HP CB 305 .. No computers.
Excellent well informed review they are great little bikes and there really is no competition which is a shame I'm old enough to remember when there was a vast choice from lots of manufacturers..its such a versatile bike and built tough...i Love the fact its whisper quiet too
The flame out happens because of the stock tuning is very lean not much gas. 550 performance ECU will help richen the fuel tables. I have never had a flame out with my 300L granted I've never ran it with the stock ECU only 550.
@@PatchedBandit I know brother, it was hard for me to bite that bullet also. Your bike will also last longer with a more efficient tuning. My engine temps are down, I don't feel as much heat on my right leg & better fuel economy. Unfortunately 300L's are smothered from the factory for EPA/emissions stuff.
Very good review thank you. I have a CRF300L and the buttons drive me crazy especially when I’m resetting the Time of Day. I did the 550 Performance ECU lowest option and it really helped with the throttle jerkiness and made it even more fun to ride. I also changed the rear shock to a K-Tech shock that had damping adjustment and that helped considerably with the bounciness and crazy amount of sag Iwas experiencing since I weigh about 195 lbs. Thanks
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Good review. These kind of bikes makes a lot of sense as a "second bike" for all year riding. I've had wr250r and now drz400 for this kind of use. Great bikes but good ones with low mileage are getting rare these days, so it's nice to have a crf300L as a option. Shame about the stock suspension though. Drz's are old, but they got a suspension that actually works without spending fortune.
I'm happy to found your channel, great content and great commentary, i'll subscribe ! I want to know more about this little CRF, i'm falling in love with TET routes Cheers from south of France.
Perfect summary of the little wasp. I had flame outs until I found that I was still in second gear instead of first. Because that gearbox is really really short in the first four gears. Good for technical terrain. This is maybe one of its greatest pros, since no other dual sport has short first gears. It's a game changer in my opinion, especially going down a steep slope. First gear, no gas, the bike is happily running at a steady 6 km/h (fourth gear at 30 km/h). Try this on a racy KTM 690. The CRF 300 L may not be the fastest bike, nor the lightest, but is very easy to ride and makes it even easier for your when the going gets tough. For the kind of tracks I have here in Bavaria ("wanderlust") it is quite ideal. I would have preferred a more sporty bike like the Kove 450 Rally, but only with the right tracks available. As you said: You can pick up the CRF 300 by yourself. And it is not too high. You gotta get used to opening the throttle more than on other power bikes, it's more about flow than grunt. But I've always loved four-cylinder supersport 600s, still own one ;-) Have a great weeknend, Günter/Nürnberg
Well said! I dont see much direct competiton to the crf300 in the modern bikes sadly. Even the Kove is a bit heavier. I’ll be riding one soon so its fun to see how it stacks when I actually get on one 😊 and definitely going to do some lift tests with that one to see how hard is it to pull up.
Mine is better than the rally with all the kit I have put in. Just now released the last big mod video a minute ago 😊 longer range, lighter, better lights and less plastics to brake.
Very good review. Good to see I am not the only one that finds it comfortable on the freeway, though I am surprised you find it preferable to the 690 701 on the freeway. My rally has replaces a 701 and the freeway was the only place I found the 701 superior. Another thing that sets this bike apart is the ridiculous fuel efficiency making it able of crossing remote areas and deserts with much less sometimes half the fuel needed by other adv and its ability to handle sand with a full expedition load very well which surprised me. By the way on the factory tyres it can’t do sand well at all 120 90 18, 19 19 21 works very well in deep sand.
690 will be better on highway if speeds exceed 100kmh. I know a lot of American highways require 80mph which this Honda is not comfortable doing for longer distances. Keeping the speeds at around 100kmh (60mph) this honda is very cabable. Fuel efficiency is definitely a plus. Wonder how much it will go up with 550 ecu and exhaust swaps etc. I'm running michelin starcross 6 now as my summer tire and they have definitely performed pretty nicely. The stock tire is super bad on any surface. Even on asphalt I found it slipping in the corners constantly and it gave very little grip offroad. Lightness of the bike helps but the stock tire is something I should have mentioned on the video but forgot.
@@PatchedBandit I have been using the 550 91 fuel and a through exhaust and the air box has been kept standard, for a couple of years Now on my Australian bike. Fuel efficiency overall is from 3.2 litres per 100ks to 3.9 at worst and this is in continuous sand dune country with a full unsupported load to see me through 650 and 850 klm desert crossings. I like the rally so much I bought one to use in Europe for the TET. That one is standard and I don’t see much difference in fuel consumption between the two on average
the rear shock absorber has no rebound, that's why it's like that, on the Yamaha XT250 it’s the same, I figured out the stock shock absorber and it became much better
I have a 21 uk model. I find the throttle irritatingly jerky at low speeds also find the motor rather harsh at around 5k plus. It stalls occasionally at low speed. I’ve tried the reset many suggest but it makes little difference. Bike’s only 600 miles so hope it improves with more miles. Gear ratios big improvement over 250 model.
For me the most annoying issue with this bike is the cable running across the dashboard. It's always in your line of sight. A minor issue, but an annoying one. :-) great review of the crf. Thanks a lot, mate!
I would like to see that Honda would add proper suspension to bike so it would be included in a bike when you buy it. It's anyway quite pricey, so Honda would probably have room in profit margin to do it. Or then they could add extra 500e to price and make it better. Otherwise cool bike
Very true. But I think Honda knows this bike is directed to developing markets where it's used to commute to work and shops daily. For this use case the stock setup is fine especially where people weigh a LOT less than us fat 'westeners' 😂 Guess it's too much to ask to put a better setup for other markets and hike up the price a little 🤷♂️ Probably too much cost to have different production lines for all the different variations.
It's good to hear you're still happy with the bike. I went to a Honda dealership and the salesman told me to wait for the cfmoto 450 MT 😂. I don't trust it to be as reliable and it's much heavier than the Honda, but with all the money people are spending on new suspension, ecu's to stop the flame out etc is they're a bike that you can recommend that cost the same as the total price of a fully modded crf that's light and needs no money spent on it besides the basics like tyres?
450 MT is absolutely in no way a comparison to the CRF. It's heavy but almost equally slow. The old BMW G 650 GS Sertao had better weight to power ration than the 450 MT so on paper it adds nothing new to the market other than the price. I'm not bashing the cfmoto I think it's great that they bring a bike like that to the market that many riders want from the bigger brands too. But it's in no means even in the same category as these CRF dualsports. Problem is that there is not much competition to the CRF300L in the bikes that are sold new at the moment and even though performance is there KTM exc series of bikes probably not the ideal travel bikes if that's what you are looking for. The flameouts is definitely not a dealbreaker and some people even report not having them. It's an annoyance but Its not something that would stop me buying the bike. I have 550 tune, exhaust swap and airbox mods video coming out this spring so you can see what the real difference is after the bike is modded with all the Level 1 parts.
@@PatchedBanditThanks for taking the time to give me an depth reply. I have actually settled on the crf but I'm a few months away from being able get my license so I want to be sure its the right bike for me and am researching the competition. Here in Australia you're restricted with cc's for 2 years and then you can upgrade your license and get something over 660cc. So i wasn't sure if i should get the crf, put money into mods and keep it long term and either accept or hope the aftermarket can fix it's shortcomings, keep it and don't mod it so i can get something like a husky 701 when i upgrade my license or just buy a slightly more powerful bike that's a long term bike I can buy asap and spend the money on mods with peace of mind knowing I'll get my moneys worth
Depending on your weight you might be fine with just adding a skidplate and some handguards to the CRF300L. That's how I rode the thing for the first 1000km and this is probably the best way to get most of your money back after 1-2 years of ownership. If you buy it and use it with the stock suspension just remember to crank the preload on the rear shock all the way in. If your weight is much more than 80kg without riding gear the bike is probably going to be too soft but I know some heavier riders who still use the bike with the stock suspension. If you are just starting out you are probably not going to do crazy jumps or motocross stuff with the bike anyway so you might be fine with the stock setup. This being said the suspension is the only thing this bike 'needs' and all the powermods that I'm going to do are just for fun and absolutely not worth the money for most riders. These Hondas usually keep their value fairly well so if you keep your mods to a minimum you might get very good value from the bike if you plan to sell it in 1-2 years anyway. Stay safe!
@@PatchedBanditIdeally I hope I love it enough to keep it long term but it's on of those things where a test ride on the streets is completely different to the bikes use case off road. The only way to know is to buy one but I think it's a smart choice and starter bike for me I'm 75kg and I sat on a rally which is supposed to have softer suspension and I could touch the floor with the balls of my feet but understand that just because I get no sag doesn't mean I will like the ride quality. But I will try to keep it stock for as long as possible and hopefully it suits me and my needs (commuting, day trips and overnight camping) If i keep it long term then the power mods might be something i consider. Thanks for sharing your perspective, It's good to hear you haven't got buyers remorse and love the bike still thank you, you too
You can do it.. but you could also walk to work with only using your hands. Most of us choose not to do it though 😉 I’ve never had a pillion on mine. Took those pegs out the moment I bought the thing. Its not gonna be great 2 up.
I agree , the stock suspension is horrible. I did the YSS upgrade (shock and fork cartridge kit) and although it is better than stock it is not great. The shock heats up quickly and fades badly. The fork kit is very difficult to tune. The rebound and compression clickers provide no adjustability. You can go 20 clicks in or out and it makes no difference. I really don’t want to spend more money on the suspension so I’m selling the bike.
That's unfortunate. The RallyRaid set that I have on works very well now that it was tuned at TTMFactory few videos ago. Only heard good things about the YSS set so far.. Maybe you have a faulty unit on your hands and should ask for a refund/replacement?
@@PatchedBandit Mine have been to the local suspension guy twice already and they still don’t function properly. The forks work ok on the road or even gravel roads but rough off road they beat you to death. I wish I had done the rally raid kit the YSS kit is a huge disappointment.
Thanks for the info. Suspension is a tough cost to swallow. You should ask RR for discounted set by telling the sad story of the yss set 😏 maybe they will feel bad enough to give a hefty discount 😉
Thanks for the video. I’ve had mine for over a year and never experienced the flameout you mentioned. I’m in Australia, so just wondering if it’s related to your cold temperature in Finland?
Got myself a 2023. model, bike is still full stock and I also never had a flameout or any kind of stall/cutout problem. Sorry to hear some owners have this issue. Could not agree more about how little vibrations there are, I would say I got more bad resonance on like 100-110 km/h from my ex cb500x (2022) than with crf, this is probably the smoothest single I owned. Also, after a number of bigger bikes, crf's low weight and the ease of use is my number one benefit. Great, real life, unbiased review btw.@@PatchedBandit
Slipper clutches don't do anything to how it operates in acceleration...usually. The now two-piece hub can make them a bit clanky. Drag rracers eliminate them, typically, for absolute precision. SC just come in on decel and open the cutch to avoid wheel locking. I agree it's difficult to feel the bite point. heavier springs might provide more feedback. I've also never experienced the flameout yet. Maybe pulling the plug gap in a touch could help.
Thanks for the info! Its definitely a preference issue. I like a very precise clutch bite that this Honda doesnt really have. But many riders prefer the ease of use so a very personal thing too. I might swap in more robust clutch plates that also make a difference I’ve been told. I have the Honda part list already sent to me by a subscriber.
@@PatchedBanditAnother option may be to play around with stack height, using an extra steel, perhaps. I've done this to get a bit more immediate grab out of a clutch. Taller stack does tend to make the clutch engagement point narrower and lever pressure higher so, if you're needing to slip the clutch a lot off road, maybe not as easy. It will define the engagement point more, for sure.
The clutch in CRF300L is no just a slipper clutch from 90's. It's slipper-locker clutch. It increases the pressure force on forward acceleration thus it does not need springs strong enough for full power. But it also changes the clutch control characteristics during acceleration so the bite point varies with throttle. That's why it's not that easy to control the slip.
@@uralicdneprov1806Interesting, I haven't taken mine apart yet. What you describe is like a centrifugal clutch, like what drag racers call a lockup. With RPM comes a set of weights that swing and lock the clutch up. I'm interested in how they do this on the CRF, as I can't tell from looking at the diagram. The feel issue is typical of all motorcycle clutches. The more rpm stacked on, the narrower the engagement point becomes and the harder the actuation becomes, especially with heavy springs, that worsen this. This is partly why most modern big power bikes are hydro clutch.
@@EffequalsMAIt's not centrifugal based. It's self clamping in forward torque the same way it's self loosening in backwards torque. You can see mechanic of that in third part of video ua-cam.com/video/wJOGKCbvMo8/v-deo.html
i see another negativ point on this bike. In my country, France, it's sold around 6300 euros key in hand...that's in my opinion too much money. The same bike is sold around 4000 euros in Thailand and the first CRL 250 was sold around 4200 in France (ok it was years ago). I would see a price around 5300 to be ok. In comparision, the new RE Himlayan 450 will be sold around 6500 euros, by far much better suspensions, more power, modern elecronics with GPS included & all necessary for travelling. OK it's more heavier, but for travelling & some gravel roads i think it's a better choice...may be you'll test it & give us your point of view, best to you
Good points. I don't usually talk about prices as they vary so much globally and especially in Finland everything is so much more expensive so there's no point. But very good points and I would love to test the Himalayan at some point. I have only been able to sit on one so far 😁
UA-cam is so funny... "Sorry about the plane" and UA-cam cuts to publicity... 😂 Thinking about getting the RallyRaid suspension for mine... And now that i see the improved look, i think a nav tower will be next.
Help I need opinions!Excellent review! Trying to decide between a 300L, 690 enduro or CRF450L. I ride to fishing locations for my channel. I have to ride freeway in route to the mountains. I need it to run 65mph without over reving. I wish so bad there was a 400cc built exactly the same way like that motor and gear box. So everyone let me know wut to buy? Again thank you for the review, subbed!👍👍
These things are hard to answer as I don't know enough about your measurements and the way you like to ride. Also the background of your riding history what bikes you have owned or are you a beginner? For what I can tell from the top of my head is that if you are at or over 200 pounds I would go with 690. But if you are under 5.8" tall you probably need a lowering kit for it. Over 5.9" and 200 pounds the KTM 690 is probably your best bet. If you are a smaller rider like me at 5.8,5 and 180 pounds the CRF300L fits my hand like a glove and there is much less vibrations than there is on the 690. Then "without over reving" is a bit personal for everyone. In my opinion the CRF300 can do it but ofcourse it will feel more stressed doing it than the big 690. CRF450L I have never ridden myself but if you are ok with the service intervals it could be a great option for you too. So if you can tell a bit more about you we can continue having a discussion about the pick. My CRF300L is pretty heavily kitted up and even though people say it's not worth the money I think I'm getting close to finding my unicorn in this small little 300cc bike. With the tune, suspension, rally tower build etc. the bike is starting to feel like the go to dualsport for my use at least. Its crazy amounts of fun, stable at speed, very comfortable suspension and with the new found power tunes it can please my adrenaline junkie side as well 😊
@@PatchedBandit Wow thank you so much for taking time to respond "very respectful my friend".. I've ridden my whole life, even raced but now going on 50 im wanting one bike thats capable of highway speeds. I'm 5'7 165lbs. Ive sat on the 690 without issues feels good but the 450 is tall so I'd Def lower a 450 and possibly also lower the 690 an inch it sits at 35" and I'm on the balls of my feet without boots. I just sold an 06 Crf250X and a 2022 Tw200. I'm most concerned about the 300 not being enough for the highway runs. I'd like to be able to cruise 65mph and not over Rev. I feel the Honda 300 will do the job with sum tuning and would probably be the most reliable. Longer service intervals would be nice as that tells me an engine is built for longer hauls. Again i just dont wanna over rev for those 50 mile freeway jaunts. Does the Honda 300 have any pull at say 60mph in 6th gear with an ecu, pipe, intake etc? Like a lot of riders, I'd like one bike to do it all, and I think your build is pretty spot on for a light adventure/single track bike. I'd do suspension as I've read it's to soft. I like to do small jumps, wheelies, but mostly single track along rivers. I've even considered the drz400 but 5spd gear box and first is so tall. I only consider the 690 because of the highway capabilities, however I feel it's more than I need and a bit heavy. I'll take any suggestions and again thank you so much for your time. You Def got my support💚 Steve ✌️ @blackflycreations or @steve.daviz
In short I would say that in at the 6th gear CRF300 is able to gain speed after 60mph but very hard if there is a strong headwind or uphill etc. The 6th gear is nice but it is a very long 'overdrive' on the Honda so if you want to overtake or take on a steep hill you need to go 5th gear. This is also true for the stock bike and the tuned bike. Tune does help but with higher speeds 70mph and over the wind resistance is simply a lot for the little engine to overcome tune or no tune. Also me personally I would rather ride my modified CRF300L than a 690 on a 50 mile highway stint due to lower vibrations. Both bikes can do it though without much issues. I'm happy sitting at 60mph with the CRF but going 70 the bike already feels like it's not happy doing it. It is a Honda so it will handle it but it does feel stressed. But if the area you ride has a lot if steep motorway inclines I would go 690. 690 will definitely have more grunt at those 60-80mph higher speeds but with more vibration in my opinion. Your physical size is not putting me off recommending the CRF300 as it does feel a bit smaller than the alternatives. Anyone over 6ft I would hesitate on recommending the 300 as it might feel small for a taller rider. Check Motorcycle Adventures channel for the review he did with my little CRF300. He is a big guy and the bike is looking tiny underneath him 😂
@@PatchedBandit Again thank you so much Patched Bandit! You have clarified more in this one video comment than 4 or 5 other channels asked the same question. After reading your comment I'm leaning towards the 300, then if it's not enough maybe I will sell it and upgrade. "I wish there was a 400 honda with this same engine/tranny".. You have been very kind in answering and taking time to help me. I will find a small way to show my appreciation for your time. I'll check out the video you metioned and continue to watch and share your channel. I'll let you know what I end up with. But again thank you for sharing your knowledge, Ride safe my friend. Talk later, Steve
Mine would occasionally flame out. I installed a TwinAir filter as I ride 90% off road and it has not flamed out since. I did a throttle reset and the jerkiness went away.
Interesting you mentioned the instrument cluster buttons, had been wondering if mine was a faulty unit and if I should take it back for them to replace, but sounds like its normal, seems a strange decision to make them this difficult to press with gloves on
How does it ride on twisty scandinavian paved roads? I'm on a HImalayan 411 atm and looking for something new. The problem is that I want more grunt, less weight and still keep some on-road performance and service intervals that makes it usable for everyday life. But since unicorns don't exist I've started to really consider the 300L. I have an enduro club not that far from me and I know that if I went for something like the new Himalayan 450 I'm getting my extra power but I'ts still too heavy to properly ride the enduro stuff. So right now It's really tempting to get a 300L and then down the line getting something different for tearing up the paved roads and doing long highway tours, given that the 300L does the paved stuff well enough to bear me over until that point (which could be a couple years).
The best I can describe the CRF300L on paved roads is that it can do a 100 km/h from point to point all day but it's not going to be exciting. It will do the job but if you are looking for any kind of "performance" on twisties you are not going to find it here. This is the main reason I have both a big ADV bike and this CRF300L. This being said I wouldn't hesitate on taking this CRF300L on some long tours like 1-4 weeks but I would definitely prefer to stay on gravel roads and ride 80-100 km/h at most. It CAN do more speed but the bike feels very stressed at 120km/h and I would not ride it long distances doing that speed. Not fun for the bike or the rider.
@@PatchedBandit Yeah, the setup you're running is what I'm starting to gravitate towards unless the Kove 450 becomes available in Norway or the new KTM 390 turns out amazing. I just don't think it's possible to get the light offroad-capable bike that performs well enough on-road in the long run.
I have a KOVE 450 Quick Ride and maybe some other stuff coming on the channel later too. Also I'm currently making an episode on how to 'relatively' easily tune the full Level 1.0 -550 performance modding to the bike without drilling the airbox and swapping the oem stack like most others do.
@@PatchedBandit That sounds very interesting, I'll keep an eye out for that! I just found your channel yesterday but I'm definitely gonna stick around. There's so much content from other parts of the world so it's always nice to get the perspective on things of someone from the nordics.
If Yamaha still made the WR250 (or better, a WR300…) I would have bought it over the Honda all day. I do love my 300 Rally ABS, BUT: - The suspension is so bad that I feel it to be unsafe. It has a strong negative impact on braking performance, especially coupled with the ABS version that already has gawd-awful brakes with 0% feel. - I will be doing the Rally Raid (Probably Level 2 as I am taller and add luggage) and likely the ECU, Airbox, and Intake from 550. May even delete the ABS system because its useless and somewhat dangerous. - For me it is a 3rd bike and its a fun little commuter that I can explore the less paved roads and ride mild trails on. Like you it has enough positives and potential to throw a fair bit of money at to make it better.
I found it on Aliexpress with this crazy name: "For HONDA CRF 300L Rally 2021 Seat Cover CRF300L 3D Breathable Seat Cushion Motorcycle Insulation Nylon Fabric Saddle Seat Cover"
Some people do some don't. Could also be regional differences between tunes in europe vs. USA vs. Asia etc. Even the ECU module is completely different hardware in the Euro bike.
remove those seat bolts and put some round button bolts on there lol they hurt like hell against your hip lol like why do they make them stick out like that?
This motorcycle does not need a slipper clutch in any way. Get rid of it. The slipper clutch is equipped with only 3 springs! Will not last when the demands increase. no more slipper clutch: ua-cam.com/video/b8kF4mr-SDc/v-deo.html
This is the mod I've been thinking about doing at some point. Still looking how long the stock setup will last but when I need to swap the plates might as well do this upgrgrade 🙂
True. Get's pretty pricey. Only bike that has made me wonder was this worth all the work and money is the Kove 450 Rally. But I'm waiting to see if they can support customers long term. I have done a lot to this Honda after this video. Check the full playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLjuLZY6TnpPnQWrKL7vgN6eCmeAY5Ea4Z.html
Kove is tall but they have managed to put all the weight very low with the low slung tanks so much so that the bike feels about the same weight as the CRF riding and lifting it up. Excellent design by Kove. Vibration difference is slightly noticeable but meaningless to me at least. Kove is very smooth.
The KTM bikes, ready to ride, are NOT much lighter than the L version (non rally). Once KTM adds fork oil, engine oil, radiator fluid, full tank of gas, replace the hardwood stock seat and heat guards , the KTM's come in at the same weight as the Honda. Plus, the Honda is actually faster when running low octane fuel in both bikes.... (the KTM will not run on low octane for long)
CRF300 definitely is happy running on low octane. Thats also one reason why it's better for traveling. I think KTM EXC bikes still go under the CRF weight but you are right that wet the differences are probably not as much as many think.
@@LnZ_Blu This place is not that remote. Houses and roads are all over 😊 If I’m remote I wear enough clothes to stay warm enough to walk very long distances if needed.
@@PatchedBandit cool! So do you have any tips for us using lead headlights and eanting to buy a light tower by adventuremencave? Hyperflashing is the issue and im wondering if I'll add a resistor or replace the relay flasher if i can find one. TST has a relay flasher but the shipping is expensive
Here is a video of someone installing this to LED headlight bike: ua-cam.com/video/rCuOpwlsWeU/v-deo.htmlsi=PNHAUeHhb9-YifM5&t=397 I have asked them to provide a schematic of the install but unfortunately they haven't been able to share it. So it's doable but I havent looked into how myself.
I understood 🙂 I just did the 550 tune in the newest video. Flameouts might be gone (at least none since but only 200km ridden) and it is not as jerky but the difference is not night and day. It is still a bit twitchy on slow speeds.
Full CRF300 playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLjuLZY6TnpPnQWrKL7vgN6eCmeAY5Ea4Z.html
Looks better than the Rallye. Best looking crf300 I have seen. Well done.
I found a low mile 300L for $4500. I threw $4000 at it to make it my perfect unicorn. It's still $4000 less than a stock 350EXC...and it's more reliable. 550 tune makes everything smooth on throttle.
That’s exactly what I did. Bought a 300L Rally for $5000 then put $4000 in suspension, exhaust, ECU etc and it’s incredible now. $9k in and I don’t regret it for a second
I've done 5000 km on my 2023 CRF300L too. Mostly backroads, city commuting, Romanian TET once. I have some comments on this review.
1. I never had a flame out, not even single one. I've heard that it happens either with blocked PAIR and stock ECU expecting that extra air in closed loop mixture control, or during jumps it cuts out thanks to weak side stand return spring triggering side stand switch.
2. I had not experienced jerky/snappy throttle. However throttle cables were far too loose from factory so I adjusted these for minimum play right when I bought the bike. Also I've heard complains at jerky throttle only from 2021 model year owners, never from other 2023 owners. Maybe Honda resolved the issue and even stock ECU firmware update would fix that. That may solve the flameout issue too if it happens on stock bike.
3. I don't see any reason for tool less seat removal. I've barely ever had reason to remove the seat as there is nothing but fuse box under the seat. I had never blown a fuse yet.
4. Speaking of seat, I find the stock seat very uncomfortable. That's my biggest con for the review. I had to take it to local upholstery shop to improve it otherwise I could not ride it for a week straight on TET. The only aftermarket seat available now is SeatConcepts. However, it is at reasonable cost only in USA. They have no production or even a storage in Europe nor Australia, so they ship each seat individually at ridiculous cost overseas. The seat costs $620 when you order it in Europe. I hope for a non-US competitor to emerge eventually.
5. Stock suspension is really unacceptable. My rear shock was bouncing full swing even on bumpy paved road. Dangerous. I've ordered better shock after the first ride.
6. Some people complains at weak front brake. It could use stronger more bity brake on road, but I find this bite-less brake perfect for offroad use as it's easily controllable on any surface.
Thanks for the input 👍
I've heard many complain about these flame outs. I have 2000 miles on my 300l and haven't had that happen at all, not once! I think this was a solid review...Spot on with the suspension comments...I'm still on the stock suspension and need to upgrade as it's limiting my fun with the stock tires and suspension...Thank you!
You may be getting the flameouts confused with the crf450rl. That bike had a bunch of flameout issues. I haven't heard much with the crf300l.
2000+ miles on mine and hadn’t had a flame out either
The exhaust and Ecu is well worth it and you are definitely gonna be satisfied. The bike is spicy and just runs better. I did a full Yoshi and 550 Performance stage 1. I couldn't be happier and it's such an easy modification. Cheers from Chicago!
That's the plan! Too bad full Yoshi is over 1000 € in the european region now.. It used to be available at around 700 € but those days are over I guess 🤨
Did you change anything about the airbox as well? Or does just exhaust + 550 Stage 1 greatly improve the power across the whole rev range?
Nice review 😊 i love my 300Rally. The best bike i have ever owned
Great review. I have been riding my 300L for 2200 kms, and I still love it. It takes me everywhere. I agree with all your thoughts.
Right on!
I do love mine, it's hilarious. Probably going to tune it at some point because I always do. I do limited off road but, I feel its ease of use will make that easier. It's a mobern bike as well, efi, gear indicator, shift light, fuel gauge, stuff that would piss me off if absent, since I'm used to modern motorcycles.
No way! The "Programmers are also human" guy also has a 300L enduro channel too?! Subscribed!
😅 I'm an older lesser version
A real bikers review. Thank you Sir.
My pleasure!
Good Video i have owned a crf300l before I changed to Husky 701.. Ifully agree on all the things that you mentioned.. The jerkyness got smoother by taking the snorkle away from the airbox and had the full Yoshimura installed otherwise stock. The adventure spec minifaring helped abit on the highway speeds.
Would love to know ur thoughts on the 2bikes iv had a 690 but not a crfl and thinking of buying one
A bit late on this older thread, but I just got my CRF 300 rally. I have done a Ktech shock swap and agree that it is just a totally different animal with the improved suspension. I have also installed a full Yoshi exhaust (ECU flash from 550 on the way) + deleted the PAIR/smog crap. This helps with the jerky throttle a good bit, but did not eliminate it, hopefully the ECU flash helps even more. The bike breathes a lot better, and is only marginally louder. It really isnt much louder at all with the Yoshi. Also the 5k "rattle" is nearly gone with the PAIR deletion. As to the "flame out" issue - I have a North American bike and never had this problem. not once, with or without the smog junk.
Good points! I've also noticed the "flameout" when starting to move.
I've adapted this same technique as with smaller 2-stroke bikes, when you have to kind of "blip" the throttle when releasing clutch so that the bike won't stall. It works great with CRF also. 😁
Think I'd enjoy the bike little bit more with slightly higher range, but of course that can be fixed with aftermarket fuel tank. 👍
Im thinking I will buy the Acerbis tank to get that much needed range. Pretty annoying to constantly fuel up 5L at a time 😅
Solid review. FWIW, I have >16,000 miles on my 300 Rally and have never had a flameout. That's in mild, very hot, and freezing temps.
Thanks a lot for this video ! I was looking to this bike as a less expensive option (and less powerful too...) than the KTM 690. And after listening to your advice, I'll definetly go with the CRF 300 + rally tower (awesome look) + Ohlins (back and front) + Acerbis tank and maybe another exhaust. And that will be the perfect bike for traveling through Marocco by tracks. Not sure less power is a big deal : I travel light, I'm light (5.7ft and 62kg), and I'm not looking for races. Thanks again ! You made my day.
Thanks for the comment! CRF is awesome for exactly what you described. Its a loyal workhorse that you can and need to be able to trust in those places 🙂 And I havent found a place where I could not get this bike and myself out of.
You make a great point in that this bike allows you to use 100% of the power, which makes riding much more enjoyable.
So many have high horsepower bikes and are never able to make use of that power, but do have to carry that power all the time.
Agree w/ the dash buttons... poor design. Impossible to press with accuracy when wearing gloves.
Being able to use full throttle for more than a few seconds...managing momentum..being able to tuck in body parts creating less drag and notice increasing speeds.
Whether on a 883 Sportster with 35HP or a vintage 27 HP CB 305 ..
No computers.
Thank you for this review!
My pleasure!
Greetings,
As always another brilliant video production 🇺🇸🍾🎉🇺🇸
Keep producing more videos about the CRF
Thanks, will do! New video will be out today 😊
Excellent well informed review they are great little bikes and there really is no competition which is a shame I'm old enough to remember when there was a vast choice from lots of manufacturers..its such a versatile bike and built tough...i Love the fact its whisper quiet too
So true. Too bad we dont have more offerings on this segment. And even this one needs some work especially with the suspension to be really good
The flame out happens because of the stock tuning is very lean not much gas. 550 performance ECU will help richen the fuel tables. I have never had a flame out with my 300L granted I've never ran it with the stock ECU only 550.
That's definitely next on the upgrades list to do. Too bad exhaust prices have gone crazy and full system here cost around 1000€ ☹️
@@PatchedBandit I know brother, it was hard for me to bite that bullet also. Your bike will also last longer with a more efficient tuning. My engine temps are down, I don't feel as much heat on my right leg & better fuel economy. Unfortunately 300L's are smothered from the factory for EPA/emissions stuff.
Very good review thank you. I have a CRF300L and the buttons drive me crazy especially when I’m resetting the Time of Day. I did the 550 Performance ECU lowest option and it really helped with the throttle jerkiness and made it even more fun to ride. I also changed the rear shock to a K-Tech shock that had damping adjustment and that helped considerably with the bounciness and crazy amount of sag Iwas experiencing since I weigh about 195 lbs. Thanks
Thanks for sharing. I had 50% sag too with my 180lbs of weight. The stock shock is definitely pretty horrid for any of us with 'western bodytypes' 😂✌️
@@PatchedBanditYes, that rear shock must be for a 130-140 lb rider! Lol
best review i have seen on this bike, good job done, thanks a lot
Thank you for the most awesomest comment 😅🤌
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Good review. These kind of bikes makes a lot of sense as a "second bike" for all year riding. I've had wr250r and now drz400 for this kind of use. Great bikes but good ones with low mileage are getting rare these days, so it's nice to have a crf300L as a option. Shame about the stock suspension though. Drz's are old, but they got a suspension that actually works without spending fortune.
I'm happy to found your channel, great content and great commentary, i'll subscribe ! I want to know more about this little CRF, i'm falling in love with TET routes
Cheers from south of France.
CRF is gonna stay with me for a while so lot's more videos coming 😊
Thanks, good info. I was thinking to get Rally version but this L starts feel more tempting and I think it looks a bit better too.
Lot less to brake too. L doesnt need crashbars.
Excellent review. Your English is very good, as well.
Perfect summary of the little wasp. I had flame outs until I found that I was still in second gear instead of first. Because that gearbox is really really short in the first four gears. Good for technical terrain. This is maybe one of its greatest pros, since no other dual sport has short first gears. It's a game changer in my opinion, especially going down a steep slope. First gear, no gas, the bike is happily running at a steady 6 km/h (fourth gear at 30 km/h). Try this on a racy KTM 690. The CRF 300 L may not be the fastest bike, nor the lightest, but is very easy to ride and makes it even easier for your when the going gets tough. For the kind of tracks I have here in Bavaria ("wanderlust") it is quite ideal. I would have preferred a more sporty bike like the Kove 450 Rally, but only with the right tracks available. As you said: You can pick up the CRF 300 by yourself. And it is not too high. You gotta get used to opening the throttle more than on other power bikes, it's more about flow than grunt. But I've always loved four-cylinder supersport 600s, still own one ;-) Have a great weeknend, Günter/Nürnberg
Well said! I dont see much direct competiton to the crf300 in the modern bikes sadly. Even the Kove is a bit heavier.
I’ll be riding one soon so its fun to see how it stacks when I actually get on one 😊 and definitely going to do some lift tests with that one to see how hard is it to pull up.
@@PatchedBanditvoge 300 rally
Mine is better than the rally with all the kit I have put in. Just now released the last big mod video a minute ago 😊 longer range, lighter, better lights and less plastics to brake.
Very good review. Good to see I am not the only one that finds it comfortable on the freeway, though I am surprised you find it preferable to the 690 701 on the freeway. My rally has replaces a 701 and the freeway was the only place I found the 701 superior. Another thing that sets this bike apart is the ridiculous fuel efficiency making it able of crossing remote areas and deserts with much less sometimes half the fuel needed by other adv and its ability to handle sand with a full expedition load very well which surprised me. By the way on the factory tyres it can’t do sand well at all 120 90 18, 19 19 21 works very well in deep sand.
690 will be better on highway if speeds exceed 100kmh. I know a lot of American highways require 80mph which this Honda is not comfortable doing for longer distances. Keeping the speeds at around 100kmh (60mph) this honda is very cabable.
Fuel efficiency is definitely a plus. Wonder how much it will go up with 550 ecu and exhaust swaps etc.
I'm running michelin starcross 6 now as my summer tire and they have definitely performed pretty nicely. The stock tire is super bad on any surface. Even on asphalt I found it slipping in the corners constantly and it gave very little grip offroad. Lightness of the bike helps but the stock tire is something I should have mentioned on the video but forgot.
@@PatchedBandit I have been using the 550 91 fuel and a through exhaust and the air box has been kept standard, for a couple of years Now on my Australian bike. Fuel efficiency overall is from 3.2 litres per 100ks to 3.9 at worst and this is in continuous sand dune country with a full unsupported load to see me through 650 and 850 klm desert crossings. I like the rally so much I bought one to use in Europe for the TET. That one is standard and I don’t see much difference in fuel consumption between the two on average
the rear shock absorber has no rebound, that's why it's like that, on the Yamaha XT250 it’s the same, I figured out the stock shock absorber and it became much better
I have a 21 uk model. I find the throttle irritatingly jerky at low speeds also find the motor rather harsh at around 5k plus. It stalls occasionally at low speed. I’ve tried the reset many suggest but it makes little difference. Bike’s only 600 miles so hope it improves with more miles. Gear ratios big improvement over 250 model.
Ecu might improve things. I have a full tuning episode coming next week
For me the most annoying issue with this bike is the cable running across the dashboard. It's always in your line of sight. A minor issue, but an annoying one. :-)
great review of the crf. Thanks a lot, mate!
Try this 🙂: ua-cam.com/video/AqSqgvykE8Q/v-deo.html
Thanks a lot. So easy! Well done.@@PatchedBandit
Great video, thanks 👍🏻
I would like to see that Honda would add proper suspension to bike so it would be included in a bike when you buy it. It's anyway quite pricey, so Honda would probably have room in profit margin to do it. Or then they could add extra 500e to price and make it better. Otherwise cool bike
Very true. But I think Honda knows this bike is directed to developing markets where it's used to commute to work and shops daily. For this use case the stock setup is fine especially where people weigh a LOT less than us fat 'westeners' 😂
Guess it's too much to ask to put a better setup for other markets and hike up the price a little 🤷♂️ Probably too much cost to have different production lines for all the different variations.
@@PatchedBandit they should adapt to other markets and make rear spring stiffer at least
Fully agree. The stock setup is ridiculous for western markets.
It's good to hear you're still happy with the bike.
I went to a Honda dealership and the salesman told me to wait for the cfmoto 450 MT 😂. I don't trust it to be as reliable and it's much heavier than the Honda, but with all the money people are spending on new suspension, ecu's to stop the flame out etc is they're a bike that you can recommend that cost the same as the total price of a fully modded crf that's light and needs no money spent on it besides the basics like tyres?
450 MT is absolutely in no way a comparison to the CRF. It's heavy but almost equally slow. The old BMW G 650 GS Sertao had better weight to power ration than the 450 MT so on paper it adds nothing new to the market other than the price. I'm not bashing the cfmoto I think it's great that they bring a bike like that to the market that many riders want from the bigger brands too. But it's in no means even in the same category as these CRF dualsports.
Problem is that there is not much competition to the CRF300L in the bikes that are sold new at the moment and even though performance is there KTM exc series of bikes probably not the ideal travel bikes if that's what you are looking for.
The flameouts is definitely not a dealbreaker and some people even report not having them. It's an annoyance but Its not something that would stop me buying the bike.
I have 550 tune, exhaust swap and airbox mods video coming out this spring so you can see what the real difference is after the bike is modded with all the Level 1 parts.
@@PatchedBanditThanks for taking the time to give me an depth reply. I have actually settled on the crf but I'm a few months away from being able get my license so I want to be sure its the right bike for me and am researching the competition. Here in Australia you're restricted with cc's for 2 years and then you can upgrade your license and get something over 660cc. So i wasn't sure if i should get the crf, put money into mods and keep it long term and either accept or hope the aftermarket can fix it's shortcomings, keep it and don't mod it so i can get something like a husky 701 when i upgrade my license or just buy a slightly more powerful bike that's a long term bike I can buy asap and spend the money on mods with peace of mind knowing I'll get my moneys worth
Depending on your weight you might be fine with just adding a skidplate and some handguards to the CRF300L. That's how I rode the thing for the first 1000km and this is probably the best way to get most of your money back after 1-2 years of ownership. If you buy it and use it with the stock suspension just remember to crank the preload on the rear shock all the way in.
If your weight is much more than 80kg without riding gear the bike is probably going to be too soft but I know some heavier riders who still use the bike with the stock suspension. If you are just starting out you are probably not going to do crazy jumps or motocross stuff with the bike anyway so you might be fine with the stock setup.
This being said the suspension is the only thing this bike 'needs' and all the powermods that I'm going to do are just for fun and absolutely not worth the money for most riders.
These Hondas usually keep their value fairly well so if you keep your mods to a minimum you might get very good value from the bike if you plan to sell it in 1-2 years anyway.
Stay safe!
@@PatchedBanditIdeally I hope I love it enough to keep it long term but it's on of those things where a test ride on the streets is completely different to the bikes use case off road. The only way to know is to buy one but I think it's a smart choice and starter bike for me
I'm 75kg and I sat on a rally which is supposed to have softer suspension and I could touch the floor with the balls of my feet but understand that just because I get no sag doesn't mean I will like the ride quality. But I will try to keep it stock for as long as possible and hopefully it suits me and my needs (commuting, day trips and overnight camping)
If i keep it long term then the power mods might be something i consider. Thanks for sharing your perspective, It's good to hear you haven't got buyers remorse and love the bike still
thank you, you too
Great review! How is the crf for pillion travel / 2up riding ? (lets say with suspension upgrade)
You can do it.. but you could also walk to work with only using your hands. Most of us choose not to do it though 😉
I’ve never had a pillion on mine. Took those pegs out the moment I bought the thing. Its not gonna be great 2 up.
I agree , the stock suspension is horrible. I did the YSS upgrade (shock and fork cartridge kit) and although it is better than stock it is not great. The shock heats up quickly and fades badly. The fork kit is very difficult to tune. The rebound and compression clickers provide no adjustability. You can go 20 clicks in or out and it makes no difference. I really don’t want to spend more money on the suspension so I’m selling the bike.
That's unfortunate. The RallyRaid set that I have on works very well now that it was tuned at TTMFactory few videos ago.
Only heard good things about the YSS set so far.. Maybe you have a faulty unit on your hands and should ask for a refund/replacement?
@@PatchedBandit Mine have been to the local suspension guy twice already and they still don’t function properly. The forks work ok on the road or even gravel roads but rough off road they beat you to death. I wish I had done the rally raid kit the YSS kit is a huge disappointment.
Thanks for the info. Suspension is a tough cost to swallow. You should ask RR for discounted set by telling the sad story of the yss set 😏 maybe they will feel bad enough to give a hefty discount 😉
Tnx for a good pro and con video 😊
Hello, thanks for sharing ur thoughts and experience
Do you know if seats are the same in L as in Rally?
No. They are not the same. Rally seat is a bit heavier and thicker and apparently you can't fit a rally seat to L or vice versa.
Thanks for the video. I’ve had mine for over a year and never experienced the flameout you mentioned. I’m in Australia, so just wondering if it’s related to your cold temperature in Finland?
It has happened summer and winter. Not a temp issue.
Got myself a 2023. model, bike is still full stock and I also never had a flameout or any kind of stall/cutout problem.
Sorry to hear some owners have this issue.
Could not agree more about how little vibrations there are, I would say I got more bad resonance on like 100-110 km/h from my ex cb500x (2022) than with crf, this is probably the smoothest single I owned. Also, after a number of bigger bikes, crf's low weight and the ease of use is my number one benefit.
Great, real life, unbiased review btw.@@PatchedBandit
Thanks! 🫡✌️
Slipper clutches don't do anything to how it operates in acceleration...usually. The now two-piece hub can make them a bit clanky. Drag rracers eliminate them, typically, for absolute precision. SC just come in on decel and open the cutch to avoid wheel locking. I agree it's difficult to feel the bite point. heavier springs might provide more feedback. I've also never experienced the flameout yet. Maybe pulling the plug gap in a touch could help.
Thanks for the info! Its definitely a preference issue. I like a very precise clutch bite that this Honda doesnt really have. But many riders prefer the ease of use so a very personal thing too.
I might swap in more robust clutch plates that also make a difference I’ve been told. I have the Honda part list already sent to me by a subscriber.
@@PatchedBanditAnother option may be to play around with stack height, using an extra steel, perhaps. I've done this to get a bit more immediate grab out of a clutch. Taller stack does tend to make the clutch engagement point narrower and lever pressure higher so, if you're needing to slip the clutch a lot off road, maybe not as easy. It will define the engagement point more, for sure.
The clutch in CRF300L is no just a slipper clutch from 90's. It's slipper-locker clutch. It increases the pressure force on forward acceleration thus it does not need springs strong enough for full power. But it also changes the clutch control characteristics during acceleration so the bite point varies with throttle. That's why it's not that easy to control the slip.
@@uralicdneprov1806Interesting, I haven't taken mine apart yet. What you describe is like a centrifugal clutch, like what drag racers call a lockup. With RPM comes a set of weights that swing and lock the clutch up. I'm interested in how they do this on the CRF, as I can't tell from looking at the diagram. The feel issue is typical of all motorcycle clutches. The more rpm stacked on, the narrower the engagement point becomes and the harder the actuation becomes, especially with heavy springs, that worsen this. This is partly why most modern big power bikes are hydro clutch.
@@EffequalsMAIt's not centrifugal based. It's self clamping in forward torque the same way it's self loosening in backwards torque. You can see mechanic of that in third part of video ua-cam.com/video/wJOGKCbvMo8/v-deo.html
i see another negativ point on this bike. In my country, France, it's sold around 6300 euros key in hand...that's in my opinion too much money. The same bike is sold around 4000 euros in Thailand and the first CRL 250 was sold around 4200 in France (ok it was years ago). I would see a price around 5300 to be ok. In comparision, the new RE Himlayan 450 will be sold around 6500 euros, by far much better suspensions, more power, modern elecronics with GPS included & all necessary for travelling. OK it's more heavier, but for travelling & some gravel roads i think it's a better choice...may be you'll test it & give us your point of view, best to you
Good points. I don't usually talk about prices as they vary so much globally and especially in Finland everything is so much more expensive so there's no point.
But very good points and I would love to test the Himalayan at some point. I have only been able to sit on one so far 😁
UA-cam is so funny...
"Sorry about the plane" and UA-cam cuts to publicity... 😂
Thinking about getting the RallyRaid suspension for mine... And now that i see the improved look, i think a nav tower will be next.
The suspension and flame out issue was a deal killer for me.l bought the klx..
Help I need opinions!Excellent review! Trying to decide between a 300L, 690 enduro or CRF450L. I ride to fishing locations for my channel. I have to ride freeway in route to the mountains. I need it to run 65mph without over reving. I wish so bad there was a 400cc built exactly the same way like that motor and gear box.
So everyone let me know wut to buy?
Again thank you for the review, subbed!👍👍
These things are hard to answer as I don't know enough about your measurements and the way you like to ride. Also the background of your riding history what bikes you have owned or are you a beginner?
For what I can tell from the top of my head is that if you are at or over 200 pounds I would go with 690. But if you are under 5.8" tall you probably need a lowering kit for it. Over 5.9" and 200 pounds the KTM 690 is probably your best bet. If you are a smaller rider like me at 5.8,5 and 180 pounds the CRF300L fits my hand like a glove and there is much less vibrations than there is on the 690.
Then "without over reving" is a bit personal for everyone. In my opinion the CRF300 can do it but ofcourse it will feel more stressed doing it than the big 690.
CRF450L I have never ridden myself but if you are ok with the service intervals it could be a great option for you too.
So if you can tell a bit more about you we can continue having a discussion about the pick. My CRF300L is pretty heavily kitted up and even though people say it's not worth the money I think I'm getting close to finding my unicorn in this small little 300cc bike. With the tune, suspension, rally tower build etc. the bike is starting to feel like the go to dualsport for my use at least. Its crazy amounts of fun, stable at speed, very comfortable suspension and with the new found power tunes it can please my adrenaline junkie side as well 😊
@@PatchedBandit Wow thank you so much for taking time to respond "very respectful my friend".. I've ridden my whole life, even raced but now going on 50 im wanting one bike thats capable of highway speeds. I'm 5'7 165lbs. Ive sat on the 690 without issues feels good but the 450 is tall so I'd Def lower a 450 and possibly also lower the 690 an inch it sits at 35" and I'm on the balls of my feet without boots. I just sold an 06 Crf250X and a 2022 Tw200. I'm most concerned about the 300 not being enough for the highway runs. I'd like to be able to cruise 65mph and not over Rev. I feel the Honda 300 will do the job with sum tuning and would probably be the most reliable. Longer service intervals would be nice as that tells me an engine is built for longer hauls. Again i just dont wanna over rev for those 50 mile freeway jaunts. Does the Honda 300 have any pull at say 60mph in 6th gear with an ecu, pipe, intake etc? Like a lot of riders, I'd like one bike to do it all, and I think your build is pretty spot on for a light adventure/single track bike. I'd do suspension as I've read it's to soft. I like to do small jumps, wheelies, but mostly single track along rivers. I've even considered the drz400 but 5spd gear box and first is so tall. I only consider the 690 because of the highway capabilities, however I feel it's more than I need and a bit heavy. I'll take any suggestions and again thank you so much for your time. You Def got my support💚
Steve ✌️
@blackflycreations or @steve.daviz
In short I would say that in at the 6th gear CRF300 is able to gain speed after 60mph but very hard if there is a strong headwind or uphill etc. The 6th gear is nice but it is a very long 'overdrive' on the Honda so if you want to overtake or take on a steep hill you need to go 5th gear.
This is also true for the stock bike and the tuned bike. Tune does help but with higher speeds 70mph and over the wind resistance is simply a lot for the little engine to overcome tune or no tune.
Also me personally I would rather ride my modified CRF300L than a 690 on a 50 mile highway stint due to lower vibrations. Both bikes can do it though without much issues. I'm happy sitting at 60mph with the CRF but going 70 the bike already feels like it's not happy doing it. It is a Honda so it will handle it but it does feel stressed.
But if the area you ride has a lot if steep motorway inclines I would go 690.
690 will definitely have more grunt at those 60-80mph higher speeds but with more vibration in my opinion.
Your physical size is not putting me off recommending the CRF300 as it does feel a bit smaller than the alternatives. Anyone over 6ft I would hesitate on recommending the 300 as it might feel small for a taller rider. Check Motorcycle Adventures channel for the review he did with my little CRF300. He is a big guy and the bike is looking tiny underneath him 😂
@@PatchedBandit Again thank you so much Patched Bandit! You have clarified more in this one video comment than 4 or 5 other channels asked the same question. After reading your comment I'm leaning towards the 300, then if it's not enough maybe I will sell it and upgrade. "I wish there was a 400 honda with this same engine/tranny"..
You have been very kind in answering and taking time to help me. I will find a small way to show my appreciation for your time.
I'll check out the video you metioned and continue to watch and share your channel.
I'll let you know what I end up with. But again thank you for sharing your knowledge,
Ride safe my friend.
Talk later, Steve
Mine would occasionally flame out. I installed a TwinAir filter as I ride 90% off road and it has not flamed out since. I did a throttle reset and the jerkiness went away.
Did you add the filter to a completely stock bike? I've had a Twin Air filter sitting around for a good while now but haven't installed.
@@jeffloucks2120 It’s stock other than I blocked the pair valve
calibrate your throttle. It removes the jerky low idle take off. There is a process. Look it up. Its super simple.
I've done it and it does help but doesn't fix it completely.
That’s how my ATAS is low power harder to stall!
Interesting you mentioned the instrument cluster buttons, had been wondering if mine was a faulty unit and if I should take it back for them to replace, but sounds like its normal, seems a strange decision to make them this difficult to press with gloves on
Yep. They are horrible on every bike.
Not sure if helps but I find it only flames out when using E10 fuel, switch to E5 and no problem.
Ive had it with both on the stock bike. I run all my bikes with 98E5
How does it ride on twisty scandinavian paved roads? I'm on a HImalayan 411 atm and looking for something new. The problem is that I want more grunt, less weight and still keep some on-road performance and service intervals that makes it usable for everyday life. But since unicorns don't exist I've started to really consider the 300L. I have an enduro club not that far from me and I know that if I went for something like the new Himalayan 450 I'm getting my extra power but I'ts still too heavy to properly ride the enduro stuff. So right now It's really tempting to get a 300L and then down the line getting something different for tearing up the paved roads and doing long highway tours, given that the 300L does the paved stuff well enough to bear me over until that point (which could be a couple years).
The best I can describe the CRF300L on paved roads is that it can do a 100 km/h from point to point all day but it's not going to be exciting. It will do the job but if you are looking for any kind of "performance" on twisties you are not going to find it here.
This is the main reason I have both a big ADV bike and this CRF300L.
This being said I wouldn't hesitate on taking this CRF300L on some long tours like 1-4 weeks but I would definitely prefer to stay on gravel roads and ride 80-100 km/h at most.
It CAN do more speed but the bike feels very stressed at 120km/h and I would not ride it long distances doing that speed. Not fun for the bike or the rider.
@@PatchedBandit Yeah, the setup you're running is what I'm starting to gravitate towards unless the Kove 450 becomes available in Norway or the new KTM 390 turns out amazing. I just don't think it's possible to get the light offroad-capable bike that performs well enough on-road in the long run.
I have a KOVE 450 Quick Ride and maybe some other stuff coming on the channel later too. Also I'm currently making an episode on how to 'relatively' easily tune the full Level 1.0 -550 performance modding to the bike without drilling the airbox and swapping the oem stack like most others do.
@@PatchedBandit That sounds very interesting, I'll keep an eye out for that! I just found your channel yesterday but I'm definitely gonna stick around. There's so much content from other parts of the world so it's always nice to get the perspective on things of someone from the nordics.
If Yamaha still made the WR250 (or better, a WR300…) I would have bought it over the Honda all day. I do love my 300 Rally ABS, BUT:
- The suspension is so bad that I feel it to be unsafe. It has a strong negative impact on braking performance, especially coupled with the ABS version that already has gawd-awful brakes with 0% feel.
- I will be doing the Rally Raid (Probably Level 2 as I am taller and add luggage) and likely the ECU, Airbox, and Intake from 550. May even delete the ABS system because its useless and somewhat dangerous.
- For me it is a 3rd bike and its a fun little commuter that I can explore the less paved roads and ride mild trails on. Like you it has enough positives and potential to throw a fair bit of money at to make it better.
I thought it was mentioned somewhere, but, can't seem to find it. Which seat cover is on here?
I found it on Aliexpress with this crazy name: "For HONDA CRF 300L Rally 2021 Seat Cover CRF300L 3D Breathable Seat Cushion Motorcycle Insulation Nylon Fabric Saddle Seat Cover"
The flame outs are a weird thing... I had my first flame out last weekend. And i have 20000km on the bike.
Helmet lock as a positive.. this guy is talking my language
If the rally actually had rally tanks instead of the fake tanks it has (that's what the brittle side plastics are), it would be worth it.
btw riding on those ice roads looks super fun
never ever experienced the flame out on my 300l
Some people do some don't. Could also be regional differences between tunes in europe vs. USA vs. Asia etc.
Even the ECU module is completely different hardware in the Euro bike.
Wit these power is much safer for people who have tendencies to be Street Rossi
Those people don't buy a CRF 😁
Top
remove those seat bolts and put some round button bolts on there lol they hurt like hell against your hip lol like why do they make them stick out like that?
No idea why they are so long. Maybe for some accessories?
I haven't hurt myself on those but it would probably be better to swap them out.
Why there is tape on your speed-o-meter?
That is weird 🤔
Just for the the cool factor, isn’t it!? 😂
This motorcycle does not need a slipper clutch in any way. Get rid of it. The slipper clutch is equipped with only 3 springs! Will not last when the demands increase.
no more slipper clutch:
ua-cam.com/video/b8kF4mr-SDc/v-deo.html
This is the mod I've been thinking about doing at some point. Still looking how long the stock setup will last but when I need to swap the plates might as well do this upgrgrade 🙂
My gearbox on a 300 rally is very "klunky" :-(
Thats weird. Should feel very smooth.
It is a very expensive motorcycle if you want a decent suspension and ECU. I am waiting for CFMoto to release an equivalent.
True. Get's pretty pricey. Only bike that has made me wonder was this worth all the work and money is the Kove 450 Rally. But I'm waiting to see if they can support customers long term.
I have done a lot to this Honda after this video. Check the full playlist here: ua-cam.com/play/PLjuLZY6TnpPnQWrKL7vgN6eCmeAY5Ea4Z.html
@@PatchedBandit CRF300 has a better staged gear box ,it is lighter and i suppose vibrates less.Kove is way too high off the ground .
Kove is tall but they have managed to put all the weight very low with the low slung tanks so much so that the bike feels about the same weight as the CRF riding and lifting it up. Excellent design by Kove.
Vibration difference is slightly noticeable but meaningless to me at least. Kove is very smooth.
@@PatchedBandit Thank you for those information. Remains , still, the first gear problem. It is too high.
The KTM bikes, ready to ride, are NOT much lighter than the L version (non rally). Once KTM adds fork oil, engine oil, radiator fluid, full tank of gas, replace the hardwood stock seat and heat guards , the KTM's come in at the same weight as the Honda. Plus, the Honda is actually faster when running low octane fuel in both bikes.... (the KTM will not run on low octane for long)
CRF300 definitely is happy running on low octane. Thats also one reason why it's better for traveling. I think KTM EXC bikes still go under the CRF weight but you are right that wet the differences are probably not as much as many think.
Ready to ride full of fuel the 500 EXC comes in 53lbs lighter than the Honda. And does everything far better.
And in Europe both use the same fuel.
Except touring comfort and service intervals 😅
@@PatchedBandit For that I have a 900 Yamaha.
That is a scary place (where you took the video)
What if you went there unprepared and your bike fails
@@LnZ_Blu This place is not that remote. Houses and roads are all over 😊 If I’m remote I wear enough clothes to stay warm enough to walk very long distances if needed.
@@PatchedBandit cool! So do you have any tips for us using lead headlights and eanting to buy a light tower by adventuremencave? Hyperflashing is the issue and im wondering if I'll add a resistor or replace the relay flasher if i can find one. TST has a relay flasher but the shipping is expensive
Here is a video of someone installing this to LED headlight bike: ua-cam.com/video/rCuOpwlsWeU/v-deo.htmlsi=PNHAUeHhb9-YifM5&t=397
I have asked them to provide a schematic of the install but unfortunately they haven't been able to share it. So it's doable but I havent looked into how myself.
@@PatchedBandit yeah i saw that already. They directly tapped the battery which I dont like. I guess I'll just experiment with the flasher relay
550 ECU wont solve the throtle.
Not completely. Its never gonna be as smooth as a big twin cyl bike.
@@PatchedBandit I am talking about the abruptness , not the vibrations.
I understood 🙂 I just did the 550 tune in the newest video. Flameouts might be gone (at least none since but only 200km ridden) and it is not as jerky but the difference is not night and day. It is still a bit twitchy on slow speeds.
@@PatchedBandit Yes , that is what i meant. Thank you for the video.