Top notch brov. You're software help has gotten me through all these problems...at 200k on my e90...who would've thought? Yeah, the engine swap was b4 it was mine, but the new n52 has 60k on it, but everything you've taught me has gotten me a super smooth, no leak, n52 wo any garage shop charges. The dope show man. Still loving the silent, no leak n52, you just have to do the work as it should be, and that's where I count on you brov
You’re an absolute legend Mate. Cheers from Charlestown, IN. I just bought a 2011 328i X drive w 90 k and thanks to literally one night of your videos I’m already on my way to do the preventive maintenance to have a peace of mind cuz I’ve fallen in love w how she runs
Finally someone else saying change 1 coil change them all and change the coils do the plugs too. I can't believe how many times I have bashed my head against a brick wall trying to explain that to someone who is just penny pinching with running a BMW. Penny pinching running these cars is only going to run you into a lot of trouble and expense and have you wishing you never bought the car in the first place. Dean, as always love your work.
@@BMWDoctor I don't think it stops there look at the videos coming out of the US (you know the ones I mean) you just got to keep smiling it would be funny if it wasn't for the people that get into trouble following their advice.
just picked up a 328i 2009 for $800 and first task is changing the starter, oil housing gasket get it to start and then do vavle cover and all the vanos parts, then tackle the water pump and hoses and then eventually the timing since the car has 185K miles. Attempting to do all the work myself.
Been looking at videos of the N52 and the M54 for the last few months. I'm looking into buying a 330 or 530. I read alot about how reliable these engines are. But what I've learned from watching you and others is: They are reliable, if you spend this and that much money on replacing everything. How is that a good engine?! Everytime I been on youtube watching for information about these engines I just end up with naah I'll wait, my V70 2.5ft is pretty good. :)
Dean, great video.. I’ve addressed most of these items except the vanos filters. I need to pull those out and take a look. Yesterday was a bid day for my e90.. it turned 200,000 miles.. still no leaks and runs like a champ.
Great video Dean, you have covered all the typical issues that tend to dog these awesome engines. Just to clarify though, the valve timing is purely controlled via the Vanos system and of course the Vanos solenoids and check valves, the Valvetronic system is purely responsible for the intake valve lift which is actually the throttle control for the engine once warm (the throttle body goes full open when the engine is up to operating temperature). However, it is correct that they work together to run the engine efficiently and correctly by constantly adjusting the valve timing and intake valve lift which also varies depending on engine load and rpm, meaning, amount of valve lift doesn't always mean the same throttle position depending on the rpm, so it is critical that the Valvetronic motor and the Eccentric Shaft sensor is functioning properly, these can also cause a rough and bouncing idle amongst other things. Same as with the failed coils issue, normally a bad Eccentric Shaft sensor is due to oil leaking through the valve cover where the sensor plug is located, causes oil ingress and the internal circuitry to short out. The Vanos solenoids are probably the most commonly failed parts on these engines, especially the older N52 engines which will have had the original older part number solenoids, guess which mine has. Also just wanted to ask regarding the PCV, is it normal for there to be a slight vacuum when opening the oil filler cap when the engine is running, or what is the accepted observation? Keep up the good work and vids!!
It is perfectly normal for there to be pressure but NOT extreme pressure if you have extreme pressure you have a CCV problem but there should be some otherwise how would it pull the excess oil around but it shouldn’t be sucking the lid back down
Okay, so should be positive pressure, not sucking at all? Mine has always had an ever so slight vacuum when opening, you can hear the vacuum release as you open the oil filler cap. Idle speed doesn’t change much when testing this, and don’t have any oil consumption.
That’s correct positive pressure any kind of complete sucking holding the lid down not good at all I saw your comment on nathans video about cleaning the solenoids Why are you saying about cleaning them ???? Can you please tell me when this crap has ever worked even Nathan said that’s not a fix at all he made that video to get views he knows that doesn’t work but as everyone knows with UA-cam people are always looking to save money and for cheap and free fixes to maintain 50k cars so the lies you have to dish out to get the views is bad Where as you know I’m different I have never ONCE come on UA-cam saying about that crap since the day I started I don’t believe in running these cars cheap as you know I have no need too whatever they need I order straight from bmw for same day delievery for myself and don’t look anywhere else I only wish everyone was the same
Thanks for your reply. Okay, I’ve done some research regarding PCV systems in general and specific to the N52, as you said, positive pressure is indicative of a failed PCV, but, some negative pressure, as in a slight vacuum is correct. This is how the PCV works, it needs to draw any blow-by gasses from the crankcase and feed back into the intake, so moderate vacuum is necessary. Interestingly, when I originally bought my car 9 years ago, the engine was using some oil and I also on occasions noticed a slight plume of smoke on cold start, but within the first couple of years of owning the car, oil consumption got less and less and haven’t seen that cold start (or any other) smoke. So not sure if the PCV was slightly blocked from the original owner’s driving style, but will eventually have to consider replacing anyway. I know your feelings regarding the cleaning of Vanos solenoids, I’m not saying that cleaning them solves problems, so no need to attack me, but I’m not totally stupid and have owned this car long enough to know a few things. I’ve cleaned (and swapped around) the solenoids over the years and have always noticed an improvement, even if short lived. The point is, before dishing out lots of money on new solenoids, giving then a clean and swapping them around at least gives you the chance to see if there is any changes or improvements, maybe error codes show a change of location. Years ago I remember a friend of mine had a stuck Vanos solenoid, told him to clean, no more error code and performance was restored. If I had an error code I would’ve replaced, but in all the years, never had an error code or stuck Vanos solenoid, but do have those intermittent low rpm stutters which I do think is due to mine being old and the original part number types. Knowing my luck though, I’ll replace mine and still have that intermittent low rpm stutter. I don’t skimp, have no problem forking out on genuine replacement parts if I KNOW it will solve a problem, have spent a lot of money over the years replacing parts that various specialists have identified as faulty or suspected as faulty only to sit with the same niggles. It’s hard dealing with no error codes as in in my case.
Trust me I watched as many of you and Nathan's vids as I could find. So I did look and overlook a couple things. So far 1 coil in 5000miles. Appreciate what your putting out and it's awesome how you expose dealership shortcomings and let us know of updates and recalls early. Cheers!
Thanks for the tips. I bought a 2010 528i for $500 and is going to be my project car. So far I most of these parts that you have talked about needed replacing. The car runs good.
Amazing video. So lucky I got the same car. Mines an N52 2007 and all this years, I still have not had an oil leak other than when my oil filter housing wore down and I blamed it at crappy filter. After three high end filters, I bought a new housing and no more oil leaks.
I have a 2008 328xi Can you do a video on the n51 engine PLEASE? I believe that’s what I have bin needing to get mine to the dealer for all the recalls . Much appreciated Thanks! Keep up the Good Work Man Best BMW How to/Know How Teacher on the Internet Period !
We do not get the N51 here in the U.K. I think you need to ask the USA people for that n52 stopped production here in 2007 we only had it 2 years then we went to N53
I have a 330xi 2006 e90 I bought it used with 100,000 km and it already has 140 thousand and its only problem is high engine oil consumption ., nice vid
Thank you for the response, but what I mean by comparison is running in tip top shape and all parts BMW spec and in great condition. Great vids. Thanks!
I don't own a BMW. I like fixing my cars (domestic and Japanese...they are so easy and cheap to work on). I have gone down to clutches, and head gaskets, so I know how to wrench. But, right now, I want some Euro styling and I don't mind a bit more work. But these "solid" engines just don't seem very solid. I would love a "solid" normally aspirated engine. This is the best BMW offers, and I have to look at 10+ problems that need to be addressed at 100k+ miles. Ugh, I am torn.
There is enough here to avoid this engine. My advice to anyone looking for a used 5 series is to buy an f10 msport 520d with an n47 engine and get the timing chain done. Good video, thanks 😁
As far as eccentric shaft is concerned - are there any clear symptomps of it's damage, or do you have to remove the valve cover to tell if it's gears were chewed up? Obviously no car seller will let you peek under valve cover.
I've been watching, because I bought a 2006 530xi in descent shape from a family friend but I want it performing perfectly. I need to change the o2 sensor, coils & plugs. It runs good but missing in 2-4-&-6. I want all those other things checked and updated if needed. I may take this video to a mechanic so he can tell how my car compares to yours.
Mate no mechanic will get yours performing like mine as they don’t have the knowledge skill or software to do it Also yours are missing a few things different to mine which will be both disa valves you will not have them as they didn’t want you lot having such power like us as you lot lose control a lot of your cars and can’t handle the power these produce secondly we don’t have any kind of XI system here as we don’t need too people here only drive rear wheel drive as we are professionals at driving bmw so every car here is rear wheel drive
I replaced valve cover and gasket, vanos solenoids, spark plugs and coils, transmission flush, radiator flush, driveshaft, intake manifold, Pcv valve and other stuff. Bought a 2009 for 11k. Convertible. Put in 6k in repairs but damn do I love this car
@@BMWDoctor just did the oil housing gasket as per one of your older videos, how did you torque down that bolt under the intake? Did you use a 1/4 e10 torx swivel with an extension? I managed to get it off with a 1/2 universial socket with a torx on it with an extension on the other end but i cant get enough leverage to torque it up the same way i took it off.
Great video mate, am a bit scared to run into all these issues even after proper maintenance at the garage. Have still not addressed the issue of getting a blow from the back of the car when pulling to a stop. Transmission needs new oil? Or smth more serious? Appreciate any help, e60 525i 2006
How much did you spend on the car so far and what amount of that would be "preventative maintenance" ? I'm thinking of buying one but so far really second guessing it as this goes way way beyond normal maintenance and the performance (at least for the 2.5l variant) is comparable to a chipped diesel which is far more reliable.
I only spent about £600 in total restoring this and its perfect now 173k on original water pump still and going strong still with all genuine parts with my trade discount so I get them half the price so these cars cost me very little
I need to ask you , you say not to keep bleeding the coolant, Fine but my lower return coolant hose is leaking for the o ring, change the whole hose, the car ask for more coolant , now when re fill , should i bleeding , you step gas 10 sec , resorvuir cap "ON" or just fill up the resorvuar tank, Please ,i afraid to mess the pump or termostast, Thank you in advance
I do love you and your show tour a master in in the us I drive a pristine 2006 Bmw 530 city the only things I haven’t done is the 2 dosas valves but I’ve done everything that you spoke about I change my oil with Amsoil with Amsoil filter also use ceraret additive I know you get a lot of texts but you’re opinion would mean so much to your welcome to come to the us and stay at my summer house 🏡 in Maine. Thank you for your great help I’m thinking about marrying my car lol. Thx DR DEAN. I’ve had the car for 12 years I bought it from my doctors wife low mileage and in a heated garage. Love ❤️ your expertise.
David Aslani forget that mate you don’t be a follower you do your own thing bro You think I follow anyone ????? Nah bro I do my own thing and get what I want doesn’t mean because someone else gets something you have to be the same
Hold a rag over the plug holes and slide a compressed air nozzle in, spray it, flip the rag spray it again, & again & clean the oil out and keep it out of the engine before pulling the plugs IMHO my old m52 was full of oil in the wells
Does the N52K engine have the CCV and Disa issue you mentioned in this video? I get a strange static rattle sound in the cabin when accelerating and I assumed it was a bad windshield gasket, but perhaps it's the Disa rattle?
I bought an e90 with n52b30 with that same jumping in rpms when u start it. The codes it threw were vanos intake and solenoids. However it turned out the car had been driven without oil for nearly 50k kms, which led to camshafts being nearly destroyed. Took me around 4000 euros and a new engine but after that its a great engine and a car. Wish only the fuel economy was better
Dr.Dean I got a n52 engine in my 328xi 2007 I broke motor mount bracket on passenger side that let my motor cut my thermostat wire and send me into limp mode I repaired everthing try to start it and experience long cranks no start conditions was throwing codes for cam crank collation replaced cam and crank sensor with bmw original sensors car strarted once and went into limp mode again said missing waterpump but its working can see it move water keeps showing missing waterpump and crank no start condition I have fuel pressure 70 lbs got spark and only code is missing water pump. Any thoughts. Your advise greatly appreciated for car has been in garage 3 weeks and I have replaced everything changed oil but smells like gas due to long cranks trying to start did compression check 250 lbs new plugs
Hi Dean! Have you ever had those magnesium valve cover aluminium bolts snap on you while trying to remove them? Gotta replace the valve cover and that worries me. Also the valvetronic motor calibration after it's been put back in. Mine is 2005, 330i, E90. If I have to hook up the laptop to it, which I don't have to calibrate the valvetronic motor, job is really not worth it DIY.
Mate valvetronic motor on these is a must for recalibration after removal if you don’t your car will run like a bag of spanners and your timing will be completely off To remove the bolts use a pick and slowly turn the broken ones out very easy to do I have done it many many times
why do BMW seem to have so many common issues? I really want one but even the N52 which is regarded as a reliable engine has so many more issues than other makes
Well I have one that was never looked after even though the service history said different, spark plugs never changed (100093) on the clock when I bought it also sure oil had not been changed for a long time. And I had to accept this was an engine needing a lot of TLC. And now it dont start even after starter motor changed , I got another and have to now change it again. Great cars and engines but omg the stuff you need to replace cause of age.
Hey Dean, great video! I'm interested in buying an E60 next year, but i can't help but notice that every now and then some 2004 or 2005 year models pop up for sale that have the older M54 engine, and not the N52. Now i'm very familiar with this engine because i currently have an E46 330i with an M54, do you know how are they in the E60's? Should they be avoided or in general early Pre-LCI E60's? One things for sure that parts for an M54 are a lot less expensive as we all know.
Mate m54 engine is very very reliable in the e60 I always say this M54 is cheap and very very strong engine in the e60 BUT the 2004 -2005 engines had electrical problems like all hell The 2006 prior had n52 and had big problems and a expensive engine to maintain BUT didn’t suffer the electrical problems The n52 engine ran for 2 years only before they switched over to N53 in the lci which all round is a better car most 2004-2005 cars will have big damage in the boot from water entering and destroying the MPM module which isn’t cheap and controls all the center electronics
@@BMWDoctor That's a real shame that water finds it's way in the boot, but thanks for letting me know will check that for sure if i ever go and take a look at an 04-05
Makjeh they also get water under the pollen filter housing in the brake booster and that can be filled up with water please check out all my videos to find all the glory details about this car the 535D I HAD was a 2005 with these exact issues and I would AVOID the estate if I was you that is very very problematic the hatch stops working the diversity antenna gets fried very expensive it’s a nightmare air suspension failure
Bought a 08 328i (n52) with 67,000 km on it and 6 months later the belt shredded apart and somehow got debris in the engine. New engines in now with 90,000 km.... Pissed!!
Hi Dr got the same motor and everything seems fine power and all when i open the oil cap the car will start to idle crap and die sometimes even with a loud pop is this normal?
Another coolant leak place is the green rubber O ring on the temperature sensor of E90/E91's thats inserted into the lower radiator hose that goes to the thermostat, the rounded edges flatten off after time and heat damage from the coolant and cause the coolant to weap past it and leak a tiny amount,. so you'll see a tiny level drop in your bottle and some coolant on your under tray or or on the floor if you don't have an under tray fitted. Simple fix to change that O Ring. Also mate it looks like you might have a coolant leak in the same area i could see something shiny/liquid like on your video at the 7:00 mark, either liquid on your under tray or you dont have an under tray fitted and you parked over a puddle maybe?
that is called water my friend from where it rained all night thats my undertray fitted correct these cars when left in heavy rain get rain water via the grills it leaks down off the bonnet via the grills and goes onto the undertray always has
Yup I'm familiar with water :) just thought i would mention as i saw it and on the subject of leaks in the rest of my comment, this was how I discovered my O ring leak.
Kevin it’s fine mate sorry I didn’t reply to you mate it wasn’t personal mate but you had me thinking I was planning to do all this once I get channel membership mate
@@BMWDoctor Yeah start from the basic's and go to the more advanced One vid at a time. Ista is a powerful tool but like you said its not straight forward. It would be cool like ista is telling you this narrow down the problem. Hey at least I'VE got GREEN modules. 👍
Should I replace the continuous ticking hydraulic lifters as they don't stop ticking even during summer. They are continuous and tick as long as the car is idling or moving, whether the engine (N52B25) is cold or hot.
About oil burning issue, will using a fully synthetic diesel rated oil (like Shell Rotella T6) in appropriate viscosity reduce oil consumption? I've have good experience with T6 on an m54 (2004 425i) but that engine runs about 94C plus minus a couple degrees (and the oil issues relate to bad piston rings).
Hello, I have a question I’ve been wanting to ask you about my 2006 530i. I’ve put on the M Sport suspension I assume which is euro spec, can you confirm that the correct springs are labeled with 2 pink dots and one blue?
doug furniss you a not change them why do you want to use stainless steel there is nothing wrong with the aluminium ones secondly you cannot use steel in a aluminium engine you will snap the Steel ones in the head and be screwed
doug furniss no I’m not I’m stating the facts you cannot use steel bolts in a aluminium HEAD if your planning to do that please do not come back here crying when you strip the head or strip out the threads this is the most STUPIDEST comment to EVER be asked and you should not be ALLOWED to own or EVEN service this engine there is NO PROBLEM using the aluminium bolts AT ALL providing you torque them correctly and buy a new set which are next to Nothing if you cannot afford a new set of bolts for £20 EVERY 100k I might add then you really shouldn’t own this car
Excellent review Dean. I’ve sent you a query via the website that you might not have seen as yet. When you’ve got the chance/time, please please have a butchers and point me in the right direction. Really need your expertise and experience on this fault.
Can I email you directly? You’ve responded to an earlier question of mine during your live sessions. Simply. I’ve got a business edition Msport 2009 330. Symptoms are, engine management light comes on under acceleration and begins to run rough. Easing off the accelerator causes the engine management light to go off after a few minutes and a slight misfire can be felt. Diagnostics report confirms misfire in chamber 3 and sometimes 4. Failed fuel pressure sensor fault which on test run, the pressure comes back as +400 as opposed to +600, and additionally, there’s an open circuit fault. The fuel pressure censor was changed and the car ran fine for about 30 miles and then the issue came back with the same codes. The top fuel sensor was changed, but this didn’t repair the fault either. Fuel lines have been cleaned, wires checked as well as possible for breakage and I’m now stumped. Injectors have all come back as good and in working condition. It has been suggested that its a faulty ECU causing all of this. I’m wondering if it could be a breather valve, but I’m no mechanic. Your advice is much needed mate.
Is it worth my while ???? I don’t answer questions on people’s problems mate I get to many of that and there straight to junk if it don’t make me money I don’t answer the questions mate like most other people if problem ain’t listed on UA-cam hopefully a video will come up with your issue mate
Hey I live in Canada and it’s already starting to get cold here, -10C range.. I don’t have the option of garage parking it so other than plugging it in with the block heater at night is there anything else I should do?
Jordan mate you don’t need to worry about engine freezing mate these cars will start even below that with no issues you don’t have a diesel mate 😂😂😂 don’t worry
Dr dean I need help my e60 530i is overheating . It will not put any heat out of vents . I believe the thermostat is stuck closed . But when I tried to check electric water pump for function with bleeding method it would not come on. Can the pump cause no flow which would not let heat through vents? Or could the thermostat be stuck closed an dme won’t allow water pump on? What should I do? Replace both? Thank you dean
Bmw Doctor thank you dean!!! I’m working on it now noticed the lower radiator hose is leaking as well at thermostat side and at temperature sensor. I’m guessing replace that as well and it should fix my problem? Also car has 193,600 miles and it appears original
Chad Riddle that is very very good mileage to get out the original waterpump mate this is what I said people go replacing these when they don’t need too yes mate replace that lower hose that comes up to the top with the neck make sure you change that water neck aswell
Bmw Doctor again thank you for replying! I just ordered those parts and will be picking them up tomorrow. Hopefully will have it fixed by tomorrow night! Thanks for the info and advice
Dr dean sorry bug you again . I was curious? Once I replace my water pump and thermostat. The dme should recognize that it’s working again an clear the fault ?
Hi Dean I've got a 530 d 2004 it went back to the dealer to have the power cable done they said it already been done but I got some really random stuff going on with the car cold start up it runs rough and and it's smoke like no one's business then if I rev it I lose all power for a couple seconds then when the screen and everything comes back on it comes up saying transmission fault and this is happening as well when I'm driving the smoke seems to be getting worse but once she warms up it's fine starts on the key every time if you could give me some advice it would be most appreciated I'm sorry it's such a long message thank you
Central electronics failure mate common on the 2004 cars mate you will need to diagnose all modules usually MPM module gets water inside it’s in your boot check it mate and make sure your boot ain’t swimming in water
So how do i know when to change VANOS solenoids if there's no signs (no jumping RPM/rough idling etc)? I pulled mine out and cleaned them. They seemed fine and not really dirty. Car has 110k km on it. Same with water pump - do i change it just to be sure (it's quite expensive) or wait for any signs?
Another stupid one do you not understand anything I said cleaning them does NOTHING where did you get that bollocks from OH don’t let me guess forums and UA-cam videos of the part fitters that know nothing about these cars mate we don’t clean solenoids we replace them just for you saying that I will not give you any info on how to know let’s hope your engine blows up for back and watch the parts fitters
@@BMWDoctor What exactly is stupid - that i inspected and cleaned them? I just asked should i replace them even if have no problems or errors at all. For all i know they could've been replaced by the previous owner as they seemed pretty clean for the car's age. Why such a reaction?
Mate they always will look clean it’s oil which is a lubricant aswell as a protection aid for the engine it breaks down very thin it cannot stock to metal they slow down the pulse rate at which there meant to run at that mileage I would change them because sooner or later there gonna fail and no little cleaning is gonna help you and you can only use bmw dealer ones as no others will make your car run the same that’s a fact and everyone knows that because of me so no point trying to go and purchase Chinese ones on eBay because there 280 cheaper because your car will run like a bag of spanners I highly doubt they would have been changed do you know how expensive they are ???? £400 for both not a lot for me as I get them at trade price so for me £270 for both but to the normal (DIYER) and I repeat (DIYER) they are expensive that’s why they brang this crappy method about cleaning I’m so glad it didn’t work difference I ain’t gonna sit here and agree with what you did I believe that’s wrong and I ain’t in favour of that and don’t support that crap and if you like to be cheap MY FRIEND your on the wrong channel this channel is only about using BMW DEALER parts only
@@BMWDoctor It seems i didn't fully understand their importance or how they actually work. It make sense to change them as soon as possible and why their quality matters, thanks for explaining it further to me! I'm not really trying to be cheap and never mentioned chinese parts though. I only cleaned them for the sake of cleaning and visual inspection, not because i followed some "methods" from forums or vids. Sorry for misunderstanding
Why in the Hell do people buy these shitty cars ? BMW and mechanically shit seen to be two things that go together ! There are far better cars you know
Oskaras Ringys mate bad ccv stretches the bolts out the head from excess crankcase vaccum clearly you must be handicap to not know this the bolts are aluminium that hold the valve cover down let your ccv fail and you will see for yourself thanks I’m here teaching you and your coming along as if you know better I’m your mentor so you respect me fool
Top notch brov. You're software help has gotten me through all these problems...at 200k on my e90...who would've thought? Yeah, the engine swap was b4 it was mine, but the new n52 has 60k on it, but everything you've taught me has gotten me a super smooth, no leak, n52 wo any garage shop charges. The dope show man. Still loving the silent, no leak n52, you just have to do the work as it should be, and that's where I count on you brov
You’re an absolute legend Mate. Cheers from Charlestown, IN. I just bought a 2011 328i X drive w 90 k and thanks to literally one night of your videos I’m already on my way to do the preventive maintenance to have a peace of mind cuz I’ve fallen in love w how she runs
Finally someone else saying change 1 coil change them all and change the coils do the plugs too. I can't believe how many times I have bashed my head against a brick wall trying to explain that to someone who is just penny pinching with running a BMW. Penny pinching running these cars is only going to run you into a lot of trouble and expense and have you wishing you never bought the car in the first place. Dean, as always love your work.
thanks darren mate maybe its a uk and Aussie thing lol
@@BMWDoctor I don't think it stops there look at the videos coming out of the US (you know the ones I mean) you just got to keep smiling it would be funny if it wasn't for the people that get into trouble following their advice.
just picked up a 328i 2009 for $800 and first task is changing the starter, oil housing gasket get it to start and then do vavle cover and all the vanos parts, then tackle the water pump and hoses and then eventually the timing since the car has 185K miles. Attempting to do all the work myself.
Been looking at videos of the N52 and the M54 for the last few months. I'm looking into buying a 330 or 530. I read alot about how reliable these engines are. But what I've learned from watching you and others is: They are reliable, if you spend this and that much money on replacing everything.
How is that a good engine?! Everytime I been on youtube watching for information about these engines I just end up with naah I'll wait, my V70 2.5ft is pretty good. :)
I got a 2006 e60 n52 with 190k for $2500. Currently at 212k and still running strong 💪
Dean, great video.. I’ve addressed most of these items except the vanos filters. I need to pull those out and take a look. Yesterday was a bid day for my e90.. it turned 200,000 miles.. still no leaks and runs like a champ.
It’s good to see mate that even with that mileage stil running strong good care and love and these cars run solid just like mine
@@BMWDoctor hello what last year bmw at the n52 engine 2009 he have?
Thanks Doc. As I'm a N52 owner your videos are helpful and entertaining!
how's that going for you im about to buy one this week
Great video Dean, you have covered all the typical issues that tend to dog these awesome engines. Just to clarify though, the valve timing is purely controlled via the Vanos system and of course the Vanos solenoids and check valves, the Valvetronic system is purely responsible for the intake valve lift which is actually the throttle control for the engine once warm (the throttle body goes full open when the engine is up to operating temperature). However, it is correct that they work together to run the engine efficiently and correctly by constantly adjusting the valve timing and intake valve lift which also varies depending on engine load and rpm, meaning, amount of valve lift doesn't always mean the same throttle position depending on the rpm, so it is critical that the Valvetronic motor and the Eccentric Shaft sensor is functioning properly, these can also cause a rough and bouncing idle amongst other things. Same as with the failed coils issue, normally a bad Eccentric Shaft sensor is due to oil leaking through the valve cover where the sensor plug is located, causes oil ingress and the internal circuitry to short out. The Vanos solenoids are probably the most commonly failed parts on these engines, especially the older N52 engines which will have had the original older part number solenoids, guess which mine has. Also just wanted to ask regarding the PCV, is it normal for there to be a slight vacuum when opening the oil filler cap when the engine is running, or what is the accepted observation? Keep up the good work and vids!!
It is perfectly normal for there to be pressure but NOT extreme pressure if you have extreme pressure you have a CCV problem but there should be some otherwise how would it pull the excess oil around but it shouldn’t be sucking the lid back down
Okay, so should be positive pressure, not sucking at all? Mine has always had an ever so slight vacuum when opening, you can hear the vacuum release as you open the oil filler cap. Idle speed doesn’t change much when testing this, and don’t have any oil consumption.
That’s correct positive pressure any kind of complete sucking holding the lid down not good at all I saw your comment on nathans video about cleaning the solenoids
Why are you saying about cleaning them ???? Can you please tell me when this crap has ever worked even Nathan said that’s not a fix at all he made that video to get views he knows that doesn’t work but as everyone knows with UA-cam people are always looking to save money and for cheap and free fixes to maintain 50k cars so the lies you have to dish out to get the views is bad
Where as you know I’m different I have never ONCE come on UA-cam saying about that crap since the day I started I don’t believe in running these cars cheap as you know I have no need too whatever they need I order straight from bmw for same day delievery for myself and don’t look anywhere else
I only wish everyone was the same
Thanks for your reply. Okay, I’ve done some research regarding PCV systems in general and specific to the N52, as you said, positive pressure is indicative of a failed PCV, but, some negative pressure, as in a slight vacuum is correct. This is how the PCV works, it needs to draw any blow-by gasses from the crankcase and feed back into the intake, so moderate vacuum is necessary. Interestingly, when I originally bought my car 9 years ago, the engine was using some oil and I also on occasions noticed a slight plume of smoke on cold start, but within the first couple of years of owning the car, oil consumption got less and less and haven’t seen that cold start (or any other) smoke. So not sure if the PCV was slightly blocked from the original owner’s driving style, but will eventually have to consider replacing anyway.
I know your feelings regarding the cleaning of Vanos solenoids, I’m not saying that cleaning them solves problems, so no need to attack me, but I’m not totally stupid and have owned this car long enough to know a few things. I’ve cleaned (and swapped around) the solenoids over the years and have always noticed an improvement, even if short lived. The point is, before dishing out lots of money on new solenoids, giving then a clean and swapping them around at least gives you the chance to see if there is any changes or improvements, maybe error codes show a change of location. Years ago I remember a friend of mine had a stuck Vanos solenoid, told him to clean, no more error code and performance was restored. If I had an error code I would’ve replaced, but in all the years, never had an error code or stuck Vanos solenoid, but do have those intermittent low rpm stutters which I do think is due to mine being old and the original part number types. Knowing my luck though, I’ll replace mine and still have that intermittent low rpm stutter. I don’t skimp, have no problem forking out on genuine replacement parts if I KNOW it will solve a problem, have spent a lot of money over the years replacing parts that various specialists have identified as faulty or suspected as faulty only to sit with the same niggles. It’s hard dealing with no error codes as in in my case.
Pcv has a recall about a year ago. Just got my 08 n52 e90 328i with 92k for $5500 and had it serviced at dealership today
6 months late on this one.....I'm scared to watch to see what I missed getting one. Thanks Doc!
Lol 😂 no problem mate well you all live and learn and now it’s there for future buyers
Mike B same here. Bought a 2006 e90 330i and it’s great but not perfect like I’m working on it to be.
Trust me I watched as many of you and Nathan's vids as I could find. So I did look and overlook a couple things. So far 1 coil in 5000miles. Appreciate what your putting out and it's awesome how you expose dealership shortcomings and let us know of updates and recalls early. Cheers!
@@FishfryOGMcTaco that's a great body style, ya mine has some dings and scrapes but luckily it's been a great daily driver so far
Thanks for the tips. I bought a 2010 528i for $500 and is going to be my project car. So far I most of these parts that you have talked about needed replacing. The car runs good.
Amazing video. So lucky I got the same car. Mines an N52 2007 and all this years, I still have not had an oil leak other than when my oil filter housing wore down and I blamed it at crappy filter. After three high end filters, I bought a new housing and no more oil leaks.
I have a 2008 328xi Can you do a video on the n51 engine PLEASE? I believe that’s what I have bin needing to get mine to the dealer for all the recalls . Much appreciated Thanks! Keep up the Good Work Man Best BMW How to/Know How Teacher on the Internet Period !
We do not get the N51 here in the U.K. I think you need to ask the USA people for that n52 stopped production here in 2007 we only had it 2 years then we went to N53
I have a 330xi 2006 e90 I bought it used with 100,000 km and it already has 140 thousand and its only problem is high engine oil consumption ., nice vid
Best preventative n52 check list❤
I have learned to fix my car on my own and it's all thanx to you. Power to DR DEAN 😉🙌🏾
Thank you for the response, but what I mean by comparison is running in tip top shape and all parts BMW spec and in great condition.
Great vids. Thanks!
That is correct and that is how mine is
I don't own a BMW. I like fixing my cars (domestic and Japanese...they are so easy and cheap to work on). I have gone down to clutches, and head gaskets, so I know how to wrench. But, right now, I want some Euro styling and I don't mind a bit more work. But these "solid" engines just don't seem very solid. I would love a "solid" normally aspirated engine. This is the best BMW offers, and I have to look at 10+ problems that need to be addressed at 100k+ miles. Ugh, I am torn.
There is enough here to avoid this engine. My advice to anyone looking for a used 5 series is to buy an f10 msport 520d with an n47 engine and get the timing chain done. Good video, thanks 😁
No mate you are wrong N52 is much much better and most are USA people so wont listen to that 😁
They don’t get diesel
The diesel not even available over here.
@@akakiki4111 Pitty, diesel is a fabulous engine, averages 50 to 60 mpg and great torque.
As far as eccentric shaft is concerned - are there any clear symptomps of it's damage, or do you have to remove the valve cover to tell if it's gears were chewed up? Obviously no car seller will let you peek under valve cover.
I've been watching, because I bought a 2006 530xi in descent shape from a family friend but I want it performing perfectly. I need to change the o2 sensor, coils & plugs. It runs good but missing in 2-4-&-6. I want all those other things checked and updated if needed. I may take this video to a mechanic so he can tell how my car compares to yours.
Mate no mechanic will get yours performing like mine as they don’t have the knowledge skill or software to do it
Also yours are missing a few things different to mine which will be both disa valves you will not have them as they didn’t want you lot having such power like us as you lot lose control a lot of your cars and can’t handle the power these produce secondly we don’t have any kind of XI system here as we don’t need too people here only drive rear wheel drive as we are professionals at driving bmw so every car here is rear wheel drive
I replaced valve cover and gasket, vanos solenoids, spark plugs and coils, transmission flush, radiator flush, driveshaft, intake manifold, Pcv valve and other stuff. Bought a 2009 for 11k. Convertible. Put in 6k in repairs but damn do I love this car
good man
Remarkable video. I have most of the issues that you have described on my N52 engine, and I am fixing most of them 😀
I fixed ALL of them when I got this car
Bmw Doctor outstanding work my friend 👍🏻
@@BMWDoctor total cost of that if you remember please?
Love all the N52 vids mate! Top man
trying to keep the you lot entertained and give something to everyone so they can all enjoy keeping it mixed for all of you
@@BMWDoctor just did the oil housing gasket as per one of your older videos, how did you torque down that bolt under the intake? Did you use a 1/4 e10 torx swivel with an extension? I managed to get it off with a 1/2 universial socket with a torx on it with an extension on the other end but i cant get enough leverage to torque it up the same way i took it off.
Fantastic engine to learn advanced repairs on. It’s built like a Honda and not overengineered.
Excellent video mate good information I love my N52 engine 👍
thats good to know mate this car wont be around long it now has a new owner and im now gonna be doing N53 engine for the UK and EU
Great video mate, am a bit scared to run into all these issues even after proper maintenance at the garage. Have still not addressed the issue of getting a blow from the back of the car when pulling to a stop. Transmission needs new oil? Or smth more serious? Appreciate any help, e60 525i 2006
How much did you spend on the car so far and what amount of that would be "preventative maintenance" ? I'm thinking of buying one but so far really second guessing it as this goes way way beyond normal maintenance and the performance (at least for the 2.5l variant) is comparable to a chipped diesel which is far more reliable.
I only spent about £600 in total restoring this and its perfect now 173k on original water pump still and going strong still with all genuine parts with my trade discount so I get them half the price so these cars cost me very little
BMW Doctor would you say they’re hard to repair if you’re a complete beginner?
HELL no UA-cam has the most videos for BMW more then any other car so hard is a understatement
Another big one...thank you boss and hope all is good for ya..
I used to haveve my daughters nama but removed...nuch respect
No problem mate
Great video. Im also planning to buy E91 touring. With N52 engine (petrol).
What about the supercharger kit for the N52? Are these engines strong enough for the extra pressure and still be reliable?
No mate these will not handle well at all with a supercharger WELL the U.K. ones won’t at least we have a higher power band as it stands
is a n52 with all these isues fixed a safe buy ?
Fantastic Edification!!!!!!! Thanks Doc!!!!!!!
HI Doc, do you know a good shop to buy N52 engine from?
Hi, could you tell me what engine is on 2007 X3 2.5i ,please?
I to replace my engine and not sure what engine do I need to buy .
I need to ask you , you say not to keep bleeding the coolant,
Fine but my lower return coolant hose is leaking for the o ring, change the whole hose, the car ask for more coolant , now when re fill , should i bleeding , you step gas 10 sec , resorvuir cap "ON" or just fill up the resorvuar tank,
Please ,i afraid to mess the pump or termostast,
Thank you in advance
I do love you and your show tour a master in in the us I drive a pristine 2006 Bmw 530 city the only things I haven’t done is the 2 dosas valves but I’ve done everything that you spoke about I change my oil with Amsoil with Amsoil filter also use ceraret additive I know you get a lot of texts but you’re opinion would mean so much to your welcome to come to the us and stay at my summer house 🏡 in Maine. Thank you for your great help I’m thinking about marrying my car lol. Thx DR DEAN. I’ve had the car for 12 years I bought it from my doctors wife low mileage and in a heated garage. Love ❤️ your expertise.
Great overview of the N52. Nice work!
Cheers mate if you need help with your one mate let me know buddy
Should I buy a bmw e90 325xi with n52 manual stick shift with 300,000 kms will it last longer the driver says he did all the kms on highway
They always say that to sell high mileage cars I would avoid at all cost with that mileage
@@BMWDoctor but bimmer zeits bmw has 430,000 kms
David Aslani forget that mate you don’t be a follower you do your own thing bro
You think I follow anyone ????? Nah bro I do my own thing and get what I want doesn’t mean because someone else gets something you have to be the same
Good that im watching this video after buying myself an 300tkm E60 N52 :D
Responding so you might check my comment for a peace of mind.
Hold a rag over the plug holes and slide a compressed air nozzle in, spray it, flip the rag spray it again, & again & clean the oil out and keep it out of the engine before pulling the plugs IMHO my old m52 was full of oil in the wells
Where do you order your parts from?
Does the N52K engine have the CCV and Disa issue you mentioned in this video? I get a strange static rattle sound in the cabin when accelerating and I assumed it was a bad windshield gasket, but perhaps it's the Disa rattle?
no you dont have disa valves that engine wasn't so lucky to have that
I bought an e90 with n52b30 with that same jumping in rpms when u start it. The codes it threw were vanos intake and solenoids. However it turned out the car had been driven without oil for nearly 50k kms, which led to camshafts being nearly destroyed. Took me around 4000 euros and a new engine but after that its a great engine and a car. Wish only the fuel economy was better
Wow what fuel economy are you getting in getting near 27mpg around town which I think is great and 31mpg on motorway
@@BMWDoctor i get 16 litres / 100 km combined, i dont know how much mpg that translates to
Luke Skywalker neither do I mate lol 😂 we don’t go by that here
@@BMWDoctor its around 15 mpg, i just checked it out
Dr.Dean I got a n52 engine in my 328xi 2007 I broke motor mount bracket on passenger side that let my motor cut my thermostat wire and send me into limp mode I repaired everthing try to start it and experience long cranks no start conditions was throwing codes for cam crank collation replaced cam and crank sensor with bmw original sensors car strarted once and went into limp mode again said missing waterpump but its working can see it move water keeps showing missing waterpump and crank no start condition I have fuel pressure 70 lbs got spark and only code is missing water pump. Any thoughts. Your advise greatly appreciated for car has been in garage 3 weeks and I have replaced everything changed oil but smells like gas due to long cranks trying to start did compression check 250 lbs new plugs
Hi Dean!
Have you ever had those magnesium valve cover aluminium bolts snap on you while trying to remove them?
Gotta replace the valve cover and that worries me.
Also the valvetronic motor calibration after it's been put back in.
Mine is 2005, 330i, E90.
If I have to hook up the laptop to it, which I don't have to calibrate the valvetronic motor, job is really not worth it DIY.
Mate valvetronic motor on these is a must for recalibration after removal if you don’t your car will run like a bag of spanners and your timing will be completely off
To remove the bolts use a pick and slowly turn the broken ones out very easy to do I have done it many many times
I have a N51 engine in my 328i...never had any mechanical issues...now has 121K miles on it...why is it not listed a reliable engine?
good explanation nice video !! can you make a list for the most important things I can replace ???? thank you ! greetings from the Netherlands

Is there any way you can check your diesel valve to make sure there are where they are supposed to be
why do BMW seem to have so many common issues? I really want one but even the N52 which is regarded as a reliable engine has so many more issues than other makes
Well I have one that was never looked after even though the service history said different, spark plugs never changed (100093) on the clock when I bought it also sure oil had not been changed for a long time. And I had to accept this was an engine needing a lot of TLC. And now it dont start even after starter motor changed , I got another and have to now change it again. Great cars and engines but omg the stuff you need to replace cause of age.
what is that valve you mentioned under intake manifold? want to prevent that from going bad on my n52.
Hey Dean, great video! I'm interested in buying an E60 next year, but i can't help but notice that every now and then some 2004 or 2005 year models pop up for sale that have the older M54 engine, and not the N52. Now i'm very familiar with this engine because i currently have an E46 330i with an M54, do you know how are they in the E60's? Should they be avoided or in general early Pre-LCI E60's? One things for sure that parts for an M54 are a lot less expensive as we all know.
Mate m54 engine is very very reliable in the e60 I always say this
M54 is cheap and very very strong engine in the e60 BUT the 2004 -2005 engines had electrical problems like all hell
The 2006 prior had n52 and had big problems and a expensive engine to maintain BUT didn’t suffer the electrical problems
The n52 engine ran for 2 years only before they switched over to N53 in the lci which all round is a better car most 2004-2005 cars will have big damage in the boot from water entering and destroying the MPM module which isn’t cheap and controls all the center electronics
@@BMWDoctor That's a real shame that water finds it's way in the boot, but thanks for letting me know will check that for sure if i ever go and take a look at an 04-05
Makjeh they also get water under the pollen filter housing in the brake booster and that can be filled up with water please check out all my videos to find all the glory details about this car the 535D I HAD was a 2005 with these exact issues and I would AVOID the estate if I was you that is very very problematic the hatch stops working the diversity antenna gets fried very expensive it’s a nightmare air suspension failure
Great video, Dean!
Cheers mate hope you are well mate
Bought a 08 328i (n52) with 67,000 km on it and 6 months later the belt shredded apart and somehow got debris in the engine. New engines in now with 90,000 km.... Pissed!!
that is PISSED I would be aswell lack of ownership and maintenance
Hi Dr got the same motor and everything seems fine power and all when i open the oil cap the car will start to idle crap and die sometimes even with a loud pop is this normal?
Another coolant leak place is the green rubber O ring on the temperature sensor of E90/E91's thats inserted into the lower radiator hose that goes to the thermostat, the rounded edges flatten off after time and heat damage from the coolant and cause the coolant to weap past it and leak a tiny amount,. so you'll see a tiny level drop in your bottle and some coolant on your under tray or or on the floor if you don't have an under tray fitted.
Simple fix to change that O Ring.
Also mate it looks like you might have a coolant leak in the same area i could see something shiny/liquid like on your video at the 7:00 mark, either liquid on your under tray or you dont have an under tray fitted and you parked over a puddle maybe?
that is called water my friend from where it rained all night thats my undertray fitted correct these cars when left in heavy rain get rain water via the grills it leaks down off the bonnet via the grills and goes onto the undertray always has
Yup I'm familiar with water :) just thought i would mention as i saw it and on the subject of leaks in the rest of my comment, this was how I discovered my O ring leak.
Yeah mate this car is checked weekly even though I don’t drive it I’m gonna have to do a video on what I look for on my n52 before a long journey
Great info Dean. My Idea I had was a Dumb one, Too much work. Just tried to help. Dean Good man. 👍
Kevin it’s fine mate sorry I didn’t reply to you mate it wasn’t personal mate but you had me thinking I was planning to do all this once I get channel membership mate
@@BMWDoctor Yeah start from the basic's and go to the more advanced One vid at a time. Ista is a powerful tool but like you said its not straight forward. It would be cool like ista is telling you this narrow down the problem. Hey at least I'VE got GREEN modules. 👍
Excellent video doc!!
thanks mate I appreciate it trying to give everyone something everyday so we get a little bit of everything
@@BMWDoctor True, i love the bmw content but the mini is good too!
Should I replace the continuous ticking hydraulic lifters as they don't stop ticking even during summer. They are continuous and tick as long as the car is idling or moving, whether the engine (N52B25) is cold or hot.
No you don’t need to replace them please stay tuned for my next video on this topic
Bmw Doctor I have the same problem, so I cant wait for your video about ticking lifters!
About oil burning issue, will using a fully synthetic diesel rated oil (like Shell Rotella T6) in appropriate viscosity reduce oil consumption? I've have good experience with T6 on an m54 (2004 425i) but that engine runs about 94C plus minus a couple degrees (and the oil issues relate to bad piston rings).
mate run 5w40 great oil and I aint had any issues on all my cars running that
@@BMWDoctor Good to hear, I run the T6 in 5w-40 as well. It's a great oil.
Can a 2011 e90 awd engine work in a f25.
great video Dean!
thanks mate
What exact formula do you use again to remove to ticking noise?
watch my next video mate
Isn’t the eccentric gear for the valvetronic?
Great information.
cheers mate
i'm considering getting a 2009 e90, but it seems owning one could be the same as owning a spaceship
lol to right mate dont I know it
Indeed i was scared too to watch this.... and here is the question. How much can the timing advance go up without hurting anything.
Depends on what you want to do to advance it more
Hello, I have a question I’ve been wanting to ask you about my 2006 530i. I’ve put on the M Sport suspension I assume which is euro spec, can you confirm that the correct springs are labeled with 2 pink dots and one blue?
That’s correct that’s how they are make sure the pink go to passenger side and blue drivers side
Wish I saw this video be for I got mine. dean where in the uk do you live can I bring my car to you plz.
Is there anything wrong with changing the aluminum bolts with steel when doing repairs.
you cannot do that you HAVE to use aliminum bolts when doing this on this valve cover no choice about it steel ones are shorter and dont fit
How about if I just get longer ones that fit
doug furniss you a not change them why do you want to use stainless steel there is nothing wrong with the aluminium ones secondly you cannot use steel in a aluminium engine you will snap the Steel ones in the head and be screwed
So what you are saying is that the strength of the aluminium screw is greater than the steel screw?
doug furniss no I’m not I’m stating the facts you cannot use steel bolts in a aluminium HEAD if your planning to do that please do not come back here crying when you strip the head or strip out the threads this is the most STUPIDEST comment to EVER be asked and you should not be ALLOWED to own or EVEN service this engine there is NO PROBLEM using the aluminium bolts AT ALL providing you torque them correctly and buy a new set which are next to Nothing if you cannot afford a new set of bolts for £20 EVERY 100k I might add then you really shouldn’t own this car
The same thing whit e85?
Excellent review Dean. I’ve sent you a query via the website that you might not have seen as yet. When you’ve got the chance/time, please please have a butchers and point me in the right direction. Really need your expertise and experience on this fault.
Query mate never got nothing lol
Can I email you directly? You’ve responded to an earlier question of mine during your live sessions.
Simply. I’ve got a business edition Msport 2009 330.
Symptoms are, engine management light comes on under acceleration and begins to run rough. Easing off the accelerator causes the engine management light to go off after a few minutes and a slight misfire can be felt. Diagnostics report confirms misfire in chamber 3 and sometimes 4. Failed fuel pressure sensor fault which on test run, the pressure comes back as +400 as opposed to +600, and additionally, there’s an open circuit fault.
The fuel pressure censor was changed and the car ran fine for about 30 miles and then the issue came back with the same codes.
The top fuel sensor was changed, but this didn’t repair the fault either. Fuel lines have been cleaned, wires checked as well as possible for breakage and I’m now stumped. Injectors have all come back as good and in working condition.
It has been suggested that its a faulty ECU causing all of this. I’m wondering if it could be a breather valve, but I’m no mechanic. Your advice is much needed mate.
Is it worth my while ???? I don’t answer questions on people’s problems mate I get to many of that and there straight to junk if it don’t make me money I don’t answer the questions mate like most other people if problem ain’t listed on UA-cam hopefully a video will come up with your issue mate
Bmw Doctor cheers. Thanks for responding anyway.
How do I go about doing the update you spoke of doc?
Hey I live in Canada and it’s already starting to get cold here, -10C range.. I don’t have the option of garage parking it so other than plugging it in with the block heater at night is there anything else I should do?
Jordan mate you don’t need to worry about engine freezing mate these cars will start even below that with no issues you don’t have a diesel mate 😂😂😂 don’t worry
She started up pretty roughly this morning, that’s why I was worried.
Jordan Sass Jordan have you had the update done ????
Bmw Doctor no I haven’t... sadly. It has started at idled fine every other day today was just the first cold day
13:50 what Update do you mean?
Dr dean I need help my e60 530i is overheating . It will not put any heat out of vents . I believe the thermostat is stuck closed . But when I tried to check electric water pump for function with bleeding method it would not come on. Can the pump cause no flow which would not let heat through vents? Or could the thermostat be stuck closed an dme won’t allow water pump on? What should I do? Replace both? Thank you dean
replace both mate trust me and do it asap
Bmw Doctor thank you dean!!! I’m working on it now noticed the lower radiator hose is leaking as well at thermostat side and at temperature sensor. I’m guessing replace that as well and it should fix my problem? Also car has 193,600 miles and it appears original
Chad Riddle that is very very good mileage to get out the original waterpump mate this is what I said people go replacing these when they don’t need too yes mate replace that lower hose that comes up to the top with the neck make sure you change that water neck aswell
Bmw Doctor again thank you for replying! I just ordered those parts and will be picking them up tomorrow. Hopefully will have it fixed by tomorrow night! Thanks for the info and advice
Dr dean sorry bug you again . I was curious? Once I replace my water pump and thermostat. The dme should recognize that it’s working again an clear the fault ?
Hi Dean I've got a 530 d 2004 it went back to the dealer to have the power cable done they said it already been done but I got some really random stuff going on with the car cold start up it runs rough and and it's smoke like no one's business then if I rev it I lose all power for a couple seconds then when the screen and everything comes back on it comes up saying transmission fault and this is happening as well when I'm driving the smoke seems to be getting worse but once she warms up it's fine starts on the key every time if you could give me some advice it would be most appreciated I'm sorry it's such a long message thank you
I love your videos wish there was more people like you out there
Central electronics failure mate common on the 2004 cars mate you will need to diagnose all modules usually MPM module gets water inside it’s in your boot check it mate and make sure your boot ain’t swimming in water
@@BMWDoctor ok I'll have a look tomorrow thank you very much Dean
Your welcome mate let me know what happens
how do you diagnose ABS issues after the abs/dtc sensors are changed.
you get ISTA and check use test plan analysis
8:09 how can i check that ?
So how do i know when to change VANOS solenoids if there's no signs (no jumping RPM/rough idling etc)? I pulled mine out and cleaned them. They seemed fine and not really dirty. Car has 110k km on it. Same with water pump - do i change it just to be sure (it's quite expensive) or wait for any signs?
Another stupid one do you not understand anything I said cleaning them does NOTHING where did you get that bollocks from OH don’t let me guess forums and UA-cam videos of the part fitters that know nothing about these cars mate we don’t clean solenoids we replace them just for you saying that I will not give you any info on how to know let’s hope your engine blows up for back and watch the parts fitters
@@BMWDoctor What exactly is stupid - that i inspected and cleaned them? I just asked should i replace them even if have no problems or errors at all. For all i know they could've been replaced by the previous owner as they seemed pretty clean for the car's age. Why such a reaction?
Mate they always will look clean it’s oil which is a lubricant aswell as a protection aid for the engine it breaks down very thin it cannot stock to metal they slow down the pulse rate at which there meant to run at that mileage I would change them because sooner or later there gonna fail and no little cleaning is gonna help you and you can only use bmw dealer ones as no others will make your car run the same that’s a fact and everyone knows that because of me so no point trying to go and purchase Chinese ones on eBay because there 280 cheaper because your car will run like a bag of spanners I highly doubt they would have been changed do you know how expensive they are ???? £400 for both not a lot for me as I get them at trade price so for me £270 for both but to the normal (DIYER) and I repeat (DIYER) they are expensive that’s why they brang this crappy method about cleaning I’m so glad it didn’t work difference I ain’t gonna sit here and agree with what you did I believe that’s wrong and I ain’t in favour of that and don’t support that crap and if you like to be cheap MY FRIEND your on the wrong channel this channel is only about using BMW DEALER parts only
@@BMWDoctor It seems i didn't fully understand their importance or how they actually work. It make sense to change them as soon as possible and why their quality matters, thanks for explaining it further to me! I'm not really trying to be cheap and never mentioned chinese parts though. I only cleaned them for the sake of cleaning and visual inspection, not because i followed some "methods" from forums or vids. Sorry for misunderstanding
Any other indicators of a blown ccv?
Yes smoke from back of engine pipe usually broken and lean and rich codes
Is this also applicable for n53?
Yep mate indeed N53 uses same setup same manifold
@@BMWDoctor Thanks mate appreciate it
Do you have a video on how to seal the oil slump without taken the sub frame? Thank you
I do but it’s private at the moment it’s not due for release yet
Bmw Doctor can not wait to see that coming. Thank you doctor 👨⚕️
Could i some how get the updated via email through for the new software ?
have the same n52k also
thx mate cheers
Your welcome
เปิดดูรูป น้ำมัน เครื่องครับ
Isn't that a N53?
Cheers
you welcome
so conclusion: don't by an e90 with a n52.
You are talking too fast 😁😁im from Macedonia and I can’t understand you completely 😂😂
Sorry mate again I don’t realise who watches next time I will speak backwards for you is that ok mate 😂
Thank you mate it’s good to see some people see the reasons behind my motivation I’m not there to drag out a 5 min or 10 min video into 20 mins
Why in the Hell do people buy these shitty cars ? BMW and mechanically shit seen to be two things that go together ! There are far better cars you know
Bad ccv stretch bolts :DD Wtf
Oskaras Ringys mate bad ccv stretches the bolts out the head from excess crankcase vaccum clearly you must be handicap to not know this the bolts are aluminium that hold the valve cover down let your ccv fail and you will see for yourself thanks I’m here teaching you and your coming along as if you know better I’m your mentor so you respect me fool
@@BMWDoctor Genius how vacuum inside in crankcase can cause rocker cover stretch ?? Pressure or vacuum ?
Pressure from sticking ccv DIAPHRAGM
i learned one thing, dont buy one