I have to tell you guys my experience with the V3 SE. I was pretty disappointed, that the auto-level and auto-z-offset worked that bad in stock condition, but here's a tutorial how to configure your V3 SE perfectly. Make sure to follow each step: 1. Make sure your bed screws are tighened, mine became loose after just two benchy prints 2. If you have a big deviation in bed level, just create small washer discs in CAD and print them. I made one with 0,7mm height and one in 0,5mm height. Put them under the black plate stands to counter big deviations. With this trick, the maximum difference between front and back just went to about 0,04mm in total. 3. Make sure your X-Axis is aligned. Mine was pretty off from the factory and I had to realign it, creality even has a tutorial for that, using two glue sticks. 4. Always clean your print bed with 99,9% alcohol and a paper towel after each print. 5. Calculate the E-Steps of the extruder accordingly. Mine was a bit off from the factory. There's a good tutorial for the V3 SE, too. 6. As mentioned, stock auto-level is crap. Nozzle is either too near or too far away. After auto-leveling, edit the auto-level data and check each point using a piece of A4 paper. Make sure, the grip of the nozzle on the paper is the same on each point. The more time you took, the better the prints. 7. After you adjusted the level, print a complete flat surface over the print bed with just 50mm/s. Adjust the Z-Offset WHILE printing until you get a perfect flat layer. With this, you find the perfect Z-offset. 8. If you encounter problems with the first layer, after you done all this, try setting first layer flow to 105% or even more. Depends on the filament you use. 9. Mine made pretty bad noises on Y-Axis movements. That was because it nearly didn't have any lubrication on it. Putting a little bit mechanical grease on the rods solved it. 10. Adjust the maximum movements accordingly to the Ender V2. There's a youtube video too highlighting the differences (stock is 4000mm/s!!!!!). Your prints will come out much better with just this setting. 11. Last but not least... To get your prints off the bed, ALWAYS remove the bed and let it rest for 5 minutes until it is cooled down. Then bend it in both ways. Your print will jump off without using any force. I stopped using scrapers. If you follow each of these steps, your V3 SE will do perfect prints. Some of you guys in the comments are on the wrong path.
Okay, I've heard of the printed washers to physically level out your bed. But what I've been wondering is do they melt? If you print them out of PLA, the transition temperature is 60 C. Does the bottom of the bed not get as hot? I don't know how much heat the bed radiates, so does it reach them even if they're put under the stock standoffs / washers?
@@GAGHUNF Well I just recently started working on a video about physically fixing my V3 SE, I'll be putting your suggestions to the test, would you like to be mentioned?
@@Bowsmin12 Make your video like you prefer. :) Another tip for any first layer problems: Reduce first layer speed in your slicer. I found out, the V3 SE doesn't like fast print speeds on first layer. A maximum of 25mm/s with an max acceleration speed of just 50mm/s works fine for me to even print small details, like christmas snowflake decoration (very small!). All other steps above required too, of course. As soon as you bump up first layer speed, problems occur. In my opinion the V3 SE is a very good printer, just poorly calibrated from factory and badly advertised, with functions which won't work as promised.
When does the level data change take place when adjusting the level data. You said to change it while using paper, but I don't think adjusting the level data is a live or active adjustment unlike the Zoffset or simple movements.
I received my ender 3 vs se 8 days ago and it printed amazing. No tuning needed. 4 days later it wouldn't print anything without grinding the nozzle into the bed or peeling everything it extruded off the bed.....I kept tweaking the z offset manually but it still wouldn't work. Finally found today that the screws that hold the hotend onto the extruder chassis had come loose so the hotend was flopping all over the place. I'd recommend pulling the extruder apart and checking all the screws to anybody else that has problems......I also readjusted the gantry since it was off when the auto leveling did its thing.....hope that helps someone else too!
The screws on the hotend weren't my problem. I'm trying to level the gantry but keep failing. One side is firm in place, the other is loose. I'm super new to this, so I have no other ideas. I was super happy with it, after 2 prints this became a nightmare.
@@TheDawnhero This is a link to a creality video about a bunch of stuff that can come loose and be tightened. Can you check all of these points in the video if you haven't already? P.S. I don't know about you but it helps me to focus on the video if I mute their music, it kinda annoys the crap out of me. Let me know how this works out.
I bought an Ender 3 SE 12 days ago and started printing without realizing that some screws could come loose. While printing, I noticed the nozzle dragging across the bed since I always observe the first few layers to make sure everything looks good. After inspecting the printer, I found that the bed wasn't properly tightened, which caused issues during calibration. In the test, the lower left corner would always show three squares with a reading of about -0.90. To fix this, I tightened the bed and replaced the nozzle with a new one because the old one was dirty, with a layer of plastic on the tip that I could no longer remove. As of now it works okay so I'm just waiting for new ceramic hotend to come as an upgrade to my ender 3
Printing on a mirror is the only way to go. They are dead flat. Adhesion and print removal are never a problem. Throw the glue sticks out. Initially, clean the mirror with soap and water and then wipe with a microfiber cloth. Cool the prints to less than 30c and they will pop right off. Gently scrape the surface with a single edge razor blade and wipe with the microfiber cloth between prints. You can buy mirror tiles and a glass cutter from Lowes and cut to whatever size. You can also buy different sizes of mirrors online for the Ender and others. Printing on a mirror is worth the initial effort. You will never, ever print on anything else. Guaranteed!
I had this printer and it was flawless for nearly a month. I was so spoiled by this... One day it just said "screw you!" and started failing every job. I finally had to seek out knowledge like you have shared and thus far, it's made an improvement. I am getting prints now but I need to tweak things more. After that, no more auto-level for this guy. As much as it made me lose my religion several times over, I now have more know-how and I can't complain about that. Ok, I might complain a bit. I also started keeping a diagram of good/failed spots on the grid printout. Thanks for the info!
I had to go through and tighten all the screws i could see, then i leveled the x-axis. this all helped. waiting on a set of calipers to do e-steps which should help too.
Biggest thank you. This truly helped a ton. I am a total amateur and didn't realize how terrible the auto-leveling is. I used your tips to go from ~95% completely unlevel bed (that I thought was level), to a truly 95% level bed. Thank you!!!
Glad it helped. Unfortunately it seems that Creality doesn't implement auto leveling well and the machine seems to heavily rely on the textured bed. Auto leveling can be a great time saving tool when developed correctly, but unfortunately they just made a few mistakes that extremely hinder the machine, just because they were / are trying to follow trends.
Ever since i updated the firmware i thought i fucked up real bad as my prints would be jumbled garbage and all information i could find was for the manual leveling printers. You helped me fix this annoying problem i had for the past couple of weeks. Thank you
I watched both of your videos on the leveling issue. I too thought I have a leveling issue because my auto leveling and auto z offset varied so greatly. I had another issue that accompanied this issue. It sounded like the nozzle was skipping across certain areas (especially the infill). I saw a post on reddit that led me to check the squareness of the x axis frame. mine seemed pretty square though. So I thought something was loose or out of adjustment. I decided to go thru the entire machine and check every single screw. As I suspected, other than the screws on the couplers to the z axis drive rods and the screws I installed on when putting the x axis frame on. The loosest screws were the ones holding the mechanism that connects the little plates inside the x z axis assembly to the drive rod (not sure of all the names to the parts as I've only started this hobby about 4 weeks ago). Now that I have tightened every single screw on this printer, it seems to be doing a lot better, and running the auto leveling/auto z axis offset 4 times, the variances are much more consistent and lower,. Another thing I change due to over adhesion, was the bed plate. I was using the stock pc plate, but switched to the smooth pei plate and now my prints adhere perfectly during printing but pop right off with a slight flex. I haven't had to use glue or hair spray to get things to stick either.
Find a good z offset test, or just a single large flat layer. And you can adjust the z offset in real time. I was able to get a fairly decent print again by lowering my z offset by about -0.1 (in -.02 increments). Do it slowly so you can see the layers at each adjustment. I may have had a different issue, but this definitely solved my issue without having to do each offset individually. Thank you for the test print, this is I might go to test print for z offset. I learned a ton in this video, thanks again for putting it together!
If you want to be able to experiment with slicer settings, someone made a similar version of the level test on Printables. It's just called Ender 3 V3 SE level test or something like that. Of course this test should be able to be fixed with the printer by itself typically.
You must have had some bad luck. My ender 3 V3 SE does not have this problem! Auto level works fine, without touching it I can print the 16 point test with no adjustment or problems!
Thanks for uploading the g-code to Github! I noticed the gcode does not load the auto-leveling mesh from the printer (command "M420 s1"). Do you know if that was on purpose? For the purpose of leveling, should the test print NOT auto-load the mesh?
This is a common question regarding the start gcode in general. I do not know if there is any benefit or hindrance to adding the line, but creality does not include it on their start gcode for the printer in creality print. at least last I heard. At the same time cura's relatively new profile for the E3V3SE does include the line by default. Personally I don't see a reason to add it because changes are happening when you adjust the auto leveling data. Therefor I think it is being loaded regardless of that line. The only reason I would see to add it is if you are making changes to the data, and no changes are happening in the print. But since we are also working with very small adjustments, you have to be careful with that mentality as well.
www.amazon.com/Ender-Adjustable-Printer-Compatible-Creality/dp/B0BX98FT9R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1ANR47KKR23IE&keywords=4Pcs+Ender+3+v2+Bed+Clips+Blue&qid=1700764283&sprefix=4pcs+ender+3+v2+bed+clips+blue%2Caps%2C302&sr=8-3 One weird thing about these clips is that sometimes they leave what looks like a blue stain on my G10 plate. But when I pick up the plate and remove it from the heating area typically it goes away. They work functionally, just weird little side effect.
If I've got a high point - the nozzle's too close to the bed - then shouldn't we increase the height of that point on the mesh? For example, the front left corner is pretty rough, and the mesh has it at -0.03. If I raised it to -0.05, wouldn't the nozzle adjust updawards for the increase in height? Same goes for low points - lowering the point by a little would adjust the nozzle down in that area.
If I remember correctly, the way I was trying to explain it is that high points are when your nozzle is too far away from the bed. But you are correct about needing to raise the number if you have a spot too close too the bed. However in your example, you are lowering the height. In terms of raising the height, negative numbers decrease and positive numbers increase. Did I say something wrong in the video? If I did, can you leave me a timestamp so I can see about doing something to fix it.
@@Bowsmin12 Yup you're right, my bad :D. I did some testing with that gCode and got some pretty tight spots, so I raised that spot in the mesh by about 0.02. So if the spot was -0.04, the new value would be -0.02. This makes the hot end go up, giving me a better layer at that point.
On the Creality bed level gcode, I noticed it does not do the M410 S1. So the print doesn't use the mesh. If we're adjusting the mesh to work better, shouldn't the gcode use the mesh? Thanks for posting the video, been searching for adjusting the autolevel for months on the 3v3SE and getting all the other non 3v3SE videos.
I think some other people have mentioned this, but as far as I can tell it still uses the leveling data one way or another. My guess is that the get mech command should be in the start gcode of the slicer. So It possibly gets added that way. When I did the leveling test, the adjustments slowly made a difference which means it has to work somehow.
I don't know if the other comment was removed but there is a separate menu. I made another leveling video recently because I was finally able to update the firmware to 1.0.6. I don't remember if I put the menu navigation in this video, but if I didn't, the 1.0.6 video has it and it should be the same even if you're still using 1.0.4.
@@Bowsmin12 Yea, sorry, I remembered seeing it, and found it as soon as I posted, so I then deleted it. The question was: Is there a way to edit level data without rerunning autoleveling. The answer is yes, it's under Control Menu then Edit Level Data.
Z offset will change the overall height of the nozzle. There is an option called edit level data and that's how you manually change the points to hopefully make it work more consistently.
I own two, I cheated by running the auto leveler and propping up the foots of printer by sliding balsa sheets underneath. Anywhere it said negative -0 to -0.93 i'd prop it up with balsa. Eventually I got it all green leveled.
Are you saying that you put the sheets under the bed or just under the leveler? There's nothing wrong with shims, which would be under the bed or under the standoffs, but if it was just under the level probe on top of the bed, this is a problem which is why I assume this isn't the thing you are doing but thought I would ask and mention it anyway.
@@Bowsmin12 . Shims underneath the bed. It also took me some trial and error. The manual should have mentioned. Wherever it's blue and if the numbers are negative it means you have to loosen the bed if it's positive you have to tighten the bed.
@@sirxavior1583 If you mean the screws, logically and typically on other models of printer I would agree. But this one is supposed to completely rely on the auto bed leveling so you're supposed to have the most consistent and immovable bed possible. If you loosen the screws on this model the bed will just be loose and move around a bit unless you shim the standoffs or something. Some people go as far as converting the stock screws to a screws system like all the previous models of ender 3 and add the manual bed leveling since Creality is kind of dumb and released this when it doesn't work right anyway. My main point is that I'm unsure on what you are saying to tighten or loosen and what the manual should have said to do so on. Either way, you're right and the product just wasn't and still isn't ready to be on the market.
HELP! My nozzle seems to be close to the prints but only in the front area. I have upgraded to the NebulaPad and it doesnt seem to let me manually adjust the numbers after running this print test. How do i adjust these settings with the NebulaPad?
I have manually adjust the z-axis which lessened the issue in the front, but it seems not leveled in terms of front to back height and idk how to adjust it. I am SUPER new to 3D printing
@@ambercovert4099 This is honestly my first time hearing about the nebula pad. So unfortunately I can't personally help you. If you are willing to use reddit, you might be able to try the Ender 3 V3 SE subreddit. It seems like others have been having all sorts of issues with it based on a quick scroll through. I don't know if anyone has had the same issue, but it's at least worth a look. And of course you can try making a post. Majority of the posts are support and help posts on that subreddit. www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/
@@Bowsmin12 You are a LIFESAVER! I found a relevant post on there! Turns out I had to remove the hotbed & sand down a couple spacers under the front screws. I was then able to level it perfectly with the back. THANKS A BUNCH
@@ambercovert4099 I'm glad you found a solution. Though there should be a way to change the level data manually somehow. Or at least you would figure as much. I would do more research on that just in case for the future. I'm also probably more fearful than you when making permanent modifications. People have recommended sanding down the spacers but I'm too worried to do it until I find replacements somewhere. Anyway, I hope you enjoy your time making cool plastic thingies!
How do you turn off the auto level/auto calibration before each print? I have mine set by myself and then evrry time it goes to print it will ne too high, so i have to fine tune Z offset within the skirt/brim print and then its fine. Its like it doesn't keep my z offset...
I think there's an on/off button for a pre calibration when starting every print. It will be on by default but you can click it off and I think it will stay that way. Unless you're having a separate issue. Let me know if this helps.
Can you explain the number grid? Or to be specific does increasing the amount raise or lower the bed. ( what puts the hot end closer to the bed .54 or .53?)
It can be confusing what raises and lowers, especially that we are working with both positive and negative numbers. If you have a positive number and you want the nozzle closer, the visible number will decrease. If you have a negative number and want the nozzle to be closer, then the visible number will increase. Another good way to remember is the direction you spin the knob will always do the same increase or decrease of values. I believe turning the knob to the left will always decrease the value, but I may be misremembering.
@@Bowsmin12 believe it or not but I'm still confused. But I figured it out. Turn right for bigger gap (if you are negative head towards zero if you are positive already go higher) turn left to move nozzle closer.
My printer does auto leveling fine on the whole plate except the right quarter. It was way overcompensated. Like the correct value is about -0.2x this thing had it -0.5x. but ya every time. Only the right quarter of the plate the entire other 3/4 does great.
hello there , thanks for videos like that , i want to repair somehow my ENDER 3 V3 SE which i just bought ! ... its like , it doing these test like touching all time , but just marking places , not going to mark levels if its green or something , just doing that for few times , and then its giving errror with QRCode which even doesnt work , i cant go to menu or software . Please help
I will admit I'm having a hard time following your message, but from what I remember from working on my machine, this could either be a simple fix or completely the other way. Have you taken the bed off the magnet and tightened the screws attaching the bed to the movement chassis? This is a common and frequent issue, and some people say that even after four prints or so, you will need to tighten the screws again. I had an error that sounds similar. I was doing some various things trying to fix up my printer and I had tightened the screws and then stopped working on it for a couple of weeks to a month, while also not using it what so ever. BUT when I came back to it and did the auto leveling sequence, it would get to the last one and then repeat the leveling process. It would do this three times until it errored and gave me a QR that I think also was unhelpful or didn't work. I sat and watched it as it was doing this again and found that for some reason on the last level probing, it pressed down extra hard or something and started to actually move the bed downward; flexing or tiling it. (most likely tilting) So I tightened the bed screws which didn't even feel loose at all, but that still fixed the issue, at least in my case. If that doesn't work, the issue may be more advanced than my understanding and if you have just bought it and it's giving you issues, I would either return the printer and exchange it if possible or go to the customer support. The customer support can be frustrating but usually will be accommodating after going through enough steps. Though I would be aware of and tell them when you are getting close to your return window closing. If you ordered it from an external source other than the Creality site, then I would probably just return and exchange if you get close to the return window closing. I was long past my return window on Amazon when I was going through my process with their support, and they refused to let me send in the printer for verification or replacement no matter how hard I tried to get them to, they were willing to send replacement parts which probably would have ended up costing them more because of the separate international shipments, but that's what they would have rather done. Sorry for such a long reply, but I want to try to help you be as sure as possible going forward and the only way I can do that is with details. I hope this helps and let me know if any of these suggestions work out.
@@Bowsmin12thank you very much for that all information, I have bought that printer and received it today, I made all set , I noticed that also on bed , so I made it more tight, and that's all what I did , I run the printer to do it's thing , I'm sitting next to it and watch that's doing leveling with this probe thing going up and down , right now it doing just that , then it goes to 16 places than repeat , doesn't show which level is more higher or lower just that , after few times it just gives sound and QR code
@@maniakerso2 Did you tighten the screws down as far as they can go? There's not any reason as far as I know to give those bed screws any slack. If you have and it's still not working, then I can only suggest contacting support or exchanging the printer. I don't know much about specifics in this area, but I think that on some occasions, the leveling probe light will send error codes by flashing and sometimes giving different colors. Like I said I don't know that for sure, it's just something that I observed when the homing feature doesn't get all it's steps right and the probe can't fully drop down because the head is too close to the bed when the probe tries or something like that. If you can observe anything like that when the issue happens, you may be able to look up the "diagnostic code" but I can't grantee that you will find anything or that will even give you a solution. Like I said the OP, your best bet is exchanging the printer from your purchase source if possible, or you can try to see if you and I are missing a simple fix by contacting Creality Support. If you do go the support rout, one thing I forgot to mention in my first reply was that you should get your order number and serial number because they are kind of stingy about that. Though I can also understand that they wouldn't want to help second hand buyers since they apparently have so many issues lol. Again, I hope this helps. Let me know what you had to go with and how it all goes.
@@Bowsmin12yes I made screws on bed , I will contact the seller but I think I have found problem , when he is doing these leveling , probe doesn't touch at last place so it's right up corner , 16 place doesn't even are not touched , the diode doesn't even change color to red color
@@maniakerso2 That's interesting, if that is the case it may be a glitch in the firmware? You could try re flashing the firmware onto the machine. I think creality has a video on that subject for the SE specifically. I would check your firmware info on the machine to make sure it's whether its the .6 version or the .4 so you don't have to worry about doing the screen firmware. They stupidly make the screen a mini SD instead of full SD like the main port that's meant to be used.
Do you now what calibration as described influence on? Regulating the flow all over the bed depending on local offset, so the model top layer is flat, but model height is not equal at all over the flat top surface, or by regulating extruder Z, so top surface od the model is parallel to the bed (warped)?
I'm not for sure if I'm understanding you right. But it makes sure your printer head is the same average distance from the bed, all over the bed. Beds often times aren't perfectly level and that's why people used to use glass. With flex beds they conform more and with the Z offset it would change the starting print height, but as a flat layer over the entire bed. With the auto probe points it shifts the height of the first layer depending on where the head is on the bed. Unfortunately most units of this printer aren't accurate with the auto level, so the manual data point leveling makes sure the Z offset is optimal across the entire bed. I hope this helps. If anything else isn't level, like your top layer, there is probably other issues.
@@antunrosovic7284 Unfortunately it looks like something went wrong and the corrections didn't post. The original message doesn't have the edited tag either, so I don't know if you may have forgotten to press post or if it didn't go through but it looks like you will need to correct it again, sorry.
@@antunrosovic7284 Okay. I'm sorry I'm still having a hard time understanding but I think what you're asking is, if the bed is tilted will the print be printed tilted as well and will the adjustment affect the height of the print? if so 1. Honestly when it comes to how the finished product would come out in this scenario, it's a bit of a thinker. I think your print might be slightly crooked, but typically it's not noticeable or a big deal because of how small the variations typically are. 2. The height can be affected by the Z offset / leveling. But again this is typically too small of a variation to notice if it does affect your prints. Hopefully this helps.
It's been a while since I've used the printer at all, so I don't remember. But it also doesn't really help to know each others offset, because it's usually different for everyone due to the actual form of the bed. Plus I remember it having a wide tolerance, (at lease in terms of 3D printing) so there isn't a true answer of how much one person will have to offset compared to the next.
Tengo una duda, al nivelarla automáticamente solo da un click, regresa a su punto de inicio, se apaga y prende y no se termina de nivelar, alguna solución? Aún nadie me puede resolver 😢
¿Has intentado volver a actualizar (reinstalar) el firmware? Si no, lo intentaría. Ojo con la versión 1.0.6, he tenido problemas para instalarla. Probaría primero la versión 1.0.4. Esto fue traducido con Google Translate, espero que ayude.
@@aguilarescobedojonatan7622 Si tienes el mismo problema, la sugerencia que le hice al otro tipo es intentar actualizar (reinstalar) el firmware y ver si funciona desde allí. Como también dije antes, tenga cuidado con la versión 1.0.6, probaría primero la 1.0.4 y vería si soluciona su problema. (traducido a través del traductor de google)
did you run the auto leveling before the gcode? Or have the pre print calibration? I'm not sure why the gcode would just dig into the bed like that. If you have already ran one of the calibrations, I would suggest upping the z offset significantly then home the printer and check it visually first. You just want it to not be too close to the bed still. If you want to actually set the z offset manually, you can attempt the classic paper method. I tried looking up some videos, but the most popular ones wither drone on in the beginning or seem to be relying on the auto level being good too. So if you don't know what I'm talking about I recommend researching it first. In terms of the bed, I don't know of there are actually ways to repair them. Even if you "repaired" the gouge, you would loose the texturing in the section unless you add it again yourself one way or another. So you may have to get a new one or you can try messaging Creality support and see if they would send a new one since the file was provided by them, I was just the deliverer because they were stinky and didn't make it public for some reason. Though since you got if from me they may try to fight you or just claim user negligence or something like that. The good news about buying a new bed is that you can get a better quality one, often not much more expensive than a straight Creality replacement. You can also explore PEI or PEO or something like that. I think they give them different names for different patterns. But there are these cool other plates you can get that have a side that is mostly flat with a cool pattern for your first layer and a textured side for tougher or certain material prints. Just be warned the the PEI and PEO don't work well with all materials. I don't remember exactly, but I think when you use PETG and possibly some other types of materials, it sticks too well and often if you get the print off the bed, some of the bed comes with it. I may be wrong but I thought it was worth asking. If you use PLA all the time or just for now then it should work great. It should also hopefully tell you in the product description. Affiliate Link - Textured and crystal style bed - amzn.to/3VP0v3a This listing has different styles and sizes. I bought something like this for my P1P and it works better than the name brand. You will have to take out the alignment screws on the back of printer's bed chassis probably. Also if you do go for one on this listing, double check the size of the bed, and you shouldn't need a magnet plate because there's one on the printer already. The rainbow ones somehow imprint that effect onto the first layer as well, which you may be able to use creatively, though on this listing it looks like there isn't one of the rainbow ones with the textured other side. I would recommend playing it safe and getting one with at least one side of the gold style textured surface. Though I think you could get one with that on both sides as well and I think this type of surface works with all materials. But again do some research and check my facts because I may be miss remembering. I know this was long but I hope it helps.
@@Bowsmin12 thank you will try, I might've ruined the z while trying the creality service tutorial where they adjust with the glue sticks underneath, their tutorials are total crap or I might be just unlucky. My printer actually worked too well for the first few days then suddenly my prints started to not stick on the bed, nozzle started to stick on the extruded models on mid way etc. I ordered a pei sheet waiting for it arrive to try all the steps again in before I throw the machine off
@@akalpozkidirir2059 Their tutorials aren't the best but they can usually get the idea across from what I've seen. Though I have to mute the audio to be able to focus on the text since there's no dang voice over or anything like that. My guess for why the prints stopped sticking is that maybe the auto leveling was still a bit too close (that seems to be common with the stock bed) and just wore down the bed? That's only an educated guess but many people recommend changing to a different, higher quality bed anyway. Kind of like what I sent before. But some people also say you need to find the tolerance for the Z offset inaccuracy and try to manually compensate for it, usually by raising it a small bit. Some people say that you shouldn't follow the creality tutorial about the glue stick method and say you should try to print these : www.printables.com/model/853057-x-axis-leveling-blocks-guide-for-ender-3-v3-se-ke I don't know how much it really matters as long as your bed looks level by eyeballing it. If it's visually off, you may need to fix that. but figured I would mention it. It's probably something you can do after you get your printer printing at least at an okay quality if you really want to, especially if you don't have any other 3D printers.
@@akalpozkidirir2059 My discord is the same username, just without the music. But I will warn you, I am no expert and my machine doesn't currently even work properly either lol. But I haven't taken the time to sit down with mine and manually level it again since trying some other fixes.
Github doesn't make it obvious, but you have to download the raw file. When you're looking at the code, don't. At the header of it, where it says code and blame, look to the right side of that bar and click the download button. You should then be able to import the Gcode file into Creality print. Let me know if you can find everything alright. I can make a small video tutorial if needed.
Most other test prints are made by the community publicly for anyone to use on sites like thingiverse and printables. There is a public version of the 4x4 point grid made by someone on printables now. The link for the original test is in the description. Hope this helps.
I have to tell you guys my experience with the V3 SE. I was pretty disappointed, that the auto-level and auto-z-offset worked that bad in stock condition, but here's a tutorial how to configure your V3 SE perfectly. Make sure to follow each step:
1. Make sure your bed screws are tighened, mine became loose after just two benchy prints
2. If you have a big deviation in bed level, just create small washer discs in CAD and print them. I made one with 0,7mm height and one in 0,5mm height. Put them under the black plate stands to counter big deviations. With this trick, the maximum difference between front and back just went to about 0,04mm in total.
3. Make sure your X-Axis is aligned. Mine was pretty off from the factory and I had to realign it, creality even has a tutorial for that, using two glue sticks.
4. Always clean your print bed with 99,9% alcohol and a paper towel after each print.
5. Calculate the E-Steps of the extruder accordingly. Mine was a bit off from the factory. There's a good tutorial for the V3 SE, too.
6. As mentioned, stock auto-level is crap. Nozzle is either too near or too far away. After auto-leveling, edit the auto-level data and check each point using a piece of A4 paper. Make sure, the grip of the nozzle on the paper is the same on each point. The more time you took, the better the prints.
7. After you adjusted the level, print a complete flat surface over the print bed with just 50mm/s. Adjust the Z-Offset WHILE printing until you get a perfect flat layer. With this, you find the perfect Z-offset.
8. If you encounter problems with the first layer, after you done all this, try setting first layer flow to 105% or even more. Depends on the filament you use.
9. Mine made pretty bad noises on Y-Axis movements. That was because it nearly didn't have any lubrication on it. Putting a little bit mechanical grease on the rods solved it.
10. Adjust the maximum movements accordingly to the Ender V2. There's a youtube video too highlighting the differences (stock is 4000mm/s!!!!!). Your prints will come out much better with just this setting.
11. Last but not least... To get your prints off the bed, ALWAYS remove the bed and let it rest for 5 minutes until it is cooled down. Then bend it in both ways. Your print will jump off without using any force. I stopped using scrapers.
If you follow each of these steps, your V3 SE will do perfect prints.
Some of you guys in the comments are on the wrong path.
Okay, I've heard of the printed washers to physically level out your bed. But what I've been wondering is do they melt? If you print them out of PLA, the transition temperature is 60 C. Does the bottom of the bed not get as hot? I don't know how much heat the bed radiates, so does it reach them even if they're put under the stock standoffs / washers?
@@Bowsmin12 I put them washers under the plate stands and not directly under the plate, basically no heat is coming there. :)
@@GAGHUNF Well I just recently started working on a video about physically fixing my V3 SE, I'll be putting your suggestions to the test, would you like to be mentioned?
@@Bowsmin12 Make your video like you prefer. :)
Another tip for any first layer problems:
Reduce first layer speed in your slicer. I found out, the V3 SE doesn't like fast print speeds on first layer. A maximum of 25mm/s with an max acceleration speed of just 50mm/s works fine for me to even print small details, like christmas snowflake decoration (very small!). All other steps above required too, of course. As soon as you bump up first layer speed, problems occur.
In my opinion the V3 SE is a very good printer, just poorly calibrated from factory and badly advertised, with functions which won't work as promised.
When does the level data change take place when adjusting the level data. You said to change it while using paper, but I don't think adjusting the level data is a live or active adjustment unlike the Zoffset or simple movements.
After almost giving up on my printer, you showed me the right way to debug. Thank you so much!
Glad to hear I helped!
I received my ender 3 vs se 8 days ago and it printed amazing. No tuning needed. 4 days later it wouldn't print anything without grinding the nozzle into the bed or peeling everything it extruded off the bed.....I kept tweaking the z offset manually but it still wouldn't work. Finally found today that the screws that hold the hotend onto the extruder chassis had come loose so the hotend was flopping all over the place. I'd recommend pulling the extruder apart and checking all the screws to anybody else that has problems......I also readjusted the gantry since it was off when the auto leveling did its thing.....hope that helps someone else too!
Haven't heard the extruder one yet, thank you for letting us know.
Exact same experience. Going to check this just in case. Thanks!
Also, the screws on the bed were loose.
The screws on the hotend weren't my problem. I'm trying to level the gantry but keep failing. One side is firm in place, the other is loose.
I'm super new to this, so I have no other ideas. I was super happy with it, after 2 prints this became a nightmare.
@@TheDawnhero This is a link to a creality video about a bunch of stuff that can come loose and be tightened. Can you check all of these points in the video if you haven't already? P.S. I don't know about you but it helps me to focus on the video if I mute their music, it kinda annoys the crap out of me. Let me know how this works out.
give us that link, @@Bowsmin12
i know other comments have said it but i wanted to also thank you personally for sharing the test print!
Thanks. After a few obnoxious comments on other videos and stuff lately, I needed that.
Awesome video! You're a lifesaver
Great video! Thank you!
I bought an Ender 3 SE 12 days ago and started printing without realizing that some screws could come loose. While printing, I noticed the nozzle dragging across the bed since I always observe the first few layers to make sure everything looks good. After inspecting the printer, I found that the bed wasn't properly tightened, which caused issues during calibration. In the test, the lower left corner would always show three squares with a reading of about -0.90.
To fix this, I tightened the bed and replaced the nozzle with a new one because the old one was dirty, with a layer of plastic on the tip that I could no longer remove.
As of now it works okay so I'm just waiting for new ceramic hotend to come as an upgrade to my ender 3
Printing on a mirror is the only way to go. They are dead flat. Adhesion and print removal are never a problem. Throw the glue sticks out. Initially, clean the mirror with soap and water and then wipe with a microfiber cloth. Cool the prints to less than 30c and they will pop right off. Gently scrape the surface with a single edge razor blade and wipe with the microfiber cloth between prints. You can buy mirror tiles and a glass cutter from Lowes and cut to whatever size. You can also buy different sizes of mirrors online for the Ender and others. Printing on a mirror is worth the initial effort. You will never, ever print on anything else. Guaranteed!
Nobody is going to own both a mirror AND single edge razor blades! Oh... wait.... never mind. :D
@@DrFierohahaha,good one!
@@DrFiero😂😂😂. They go well together.
I had this printer and it was flawless for nearly a month. I was so spoiled by this... One day it just said "screw you!" and started failing every job. I finally had to seek out knowledge like you have shared and thus far, it's made an improvement. I am getting prints now but I need to tweak things more. After that, no more auto-level for this guy. As much as it made me lose my religion several times over, I now have more know-how and I can't complain about that. Ok, I might complain a bit. I also started keeping a diagram of good/failed spots on the grid printout. Thanks for the info!
What did you do my printer worked fine for about 3 weeks now its failing most prints
Thank you. Your comment made my day.
I had to go through and tighten all the screws i could see, then i leveled the x-axis. this all helped. waiting on a set of calipers to do e-steps which should help too.
Hey man, thanks for share this useful info, I really appreciate it.
Biggest thank you. This truly helped a ton. I am a total amateur and didn't realize how terrible the auto-leveling is. I used your tips to go from ~95% completely unlevel bed (that I thought was level), to a truly 95% level bed. Thank you!!!
Glad it helped. Unfortunately it seems that Creality doesn't implement auto leveling well and the machine seems to heavily rely on the textured bed. Auto leveling can be a great time saving tool when developed correctly, but unfortunately they just made a few mistakes that extremely hinder the machine, just because they were / are trying to follow trends.
Ever since i updated the firmware i thought i fucked up real bad as my prints would be jumbled garbage and all information i could find was for the manual leveling printers. You helped me fix this annoying problem i had for the past couple of weeks. Thank you
Glad it helped
I watched both of your videos on the leveling issue. I too thought I have a leveling issue because my auto leveling and auto z offset varied so greatly. I had another issue that accompanied this issue. It sounded like the nozzle was skipping across certain areas (especially the infill). I saw a post on reddit that led me to check the squareness of the x axis frame. mine seemed pretty square though. So I thought something was loose or out of adjustment. I decided to go thru the entire machine and check every single screw. As I suspected, other than the screws on the couplers to the z axis drive rods and the screws I installed on when putting the x axis frame on. The loosest screws were the ones holding the mechanism that connects the little plates inside the x z axis assembly to the drive rod (not sure of all the names to the parts as I've only started this hobby about 4 weeks ago). Now that I have tightened every single screw on this printer, it seems to be doing a lot better, and running the auto leveling/auto z axis offset 4 times, the variances are much more consistent and lower,. Another thing I change due to over adhesion, was the bed plate. I was using the stock pc plate, but switched to the smooth pei plate and now my prints adhere perfectly during printing but pop right off with a slight flex. I haven't had to use glue or hair spray to get things to stick either.
Find a good z offset test, or just a single large flat layer. And you can adjust the z offset in real time. I was able to get a fairly decent print again by lowering my z offset by about -0.1 (in -.02 increments). Do it slowly so you can see the layers at each adjustment.
I may have had a different issue, but this definitely solved my issue without having to do each offset individually.
Thank you for the test print, this is I might go to test print for z offset.
I learned a ton in this video, thanks again for putting it together!
This was so helpful!!! I can't believe this video does not have more views. THANK YOU!!!
Happy to hear it helped.
your room is so early 2000s i love it
Kinda feels like the era I'm stuck in even though I was born in 2002. From my room to my music.
I found that my problem was caused by the screws coming loose. It's a good start to check each one. I had quite a few that came loose.
Mentioned that in a different video.
Thank you for getting that test print and sharing it, I really appreciate it!
If you want to be able to experiment with slicer settings, someone made a similar version of the level test on Printables. It's just called Ender 3 V3 SE level test or something like that. Of course this test should be able to be fixed with the printer by itself typically.
Ty
Thanks a lot for the info!
Great video and great info. I just get the same printer having the same problem.
You must have had some bad luck. My ender 3 V3 SE does not have this problem! Auto level works fine, without touching it I can print the 16 point test with no adjustment or problems!
The steel and the PEI surface will separate if it sticks and you yank it off. I use a safety razor to come underneath it.
Can you clarify what is sticking to what in this suggestion? Is the plate sticking to the bed area or is a print sticking to the plate?
Good guide, stuffs work just like described, except, maybe in my case only - testing with paper is useless.
Thanks for uploading the g-code to Github! I noticed the gcode does not load the auto-leveling mesh from the printer (command "M420 s1"). Do you know if that was on purpose?
For the purpose of leveling, should the test print NOT auto-load the mesh?
This is a common question regarding the start gcode in general. I do not know if there is any benefit or hindrance to adding the line, but creality does not include it on their start gcode for the printer in creality print. at least last I heard. At the same time cura's relatively new profile for the E3V3SE does include the line by default.
Personally I don't see a reason to add it because changes are happening when you adjust the auto leveling data. Therefor I think it is being loaded regardless of that line. The only reason I would see to add it is if you are making changes to the data, and no changes are happening in the print. But since we are also working with very small adjustments, you have to be careful with that mentality as well.
I see you're using a G10 build plate - nice! Do you have links to the corner clips you used?
www.amazon.com/Ender-Adjustable-Printer-Compatible-Creality/dp/B0BX98FT9R/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1ANR47KKR23IE&keywords=4Pcs+Ender+3+v2+Bed+Clips+Blue&qid=1700764283&sprefix=4pcs+ender+3+v2+bed+clips+blue%2Caps%2C302&sr=8-3
One weird thing about these clips is that sometimes they leave what looks like a blue stain on my G10 plate. But when I pick up the plate and remove it from the heating area typically it goes away. They work functionally, just weird little side effect.
If I've got a high point - the nozzle's too close to the bed - then shouldn't we increase the height of that point on the mesh?
For example, the front left corner is pretty rough, and the mesh has it at -0.03. If I raised it to -0.05, wouldn't the nozzle adjust updawards for the increase in height?
Same goes for low points - lowering the point by a little would adjust the nozzle down in that area.
If I remember correctly, the way I was trying to explain it is that high points are when your nozzle is too far away from the bed. But you are correct about needing to raise the number if you have a spot too close too the bed. However in your example, you are lowering the height. In terms of raising the height, negative numbers decrease and positive numbers increase. Did I say something wrong in the video? If I did, can you leave me a timestamp so I can see about doing something to fix it.
@@Bowsmin12 Yup you're right, my bad :D. I did some testing with that gCode and got some pretty tight spots, so I raised that spot in the mesh by about 0.02. So if the spot was -0.04, the new value would be -0.02. This makes the hot end go up, giving me a better layer at that point.
@@PatFriedl Glad to help and clarify. I mess up numbers and typing all the time so most times I have to double or triple check and make sure.
Nice video thank you
Get the nebula pad it helped my prints alot faster to
On the Creality bed level gcode, I noticed it does not do the M410 S1. So the print doesn't use the mesh. If we're adjusting the mesh to work better, shouldn't the gcode use the mesh?
Thanks for posting the video, been searching for adjusting the autolevel for months on the 3v3SE and getting all the other non 3v3SE videos.
I think some other people have mentioned this, but as far as I can tell it still uses the leveling data one way or another. My guess is that the get mech command should be in the start gcode of the slicer. So It possibly gets added that way. When I did the leveling test, the adjustments slowly made a difference which means it has to work somehow.
I don't know if the other comment was removed but there is a separate menu. I made another leveling video recently because I was finally able to update the firmware to 1.0.6. I don't remember if I put the menu navigation in this video, but if I didn't, the 1.0.6 video has it and it should be the same even if you're still using 1.0.4.
@@Bowsmin12 Yea, sorry, I remembered seeing it, and found it as soon as I posted, so I then deleted it.
The question was: Is there a way to edit level data without rerunning autoleveling. The answer is yes, it's under Control Menu then Edit Level Data.
@@no_such_reality4552 I figured it was something like that, but I wanted to message back just in case.
how do you raise the nozzle up or down? how do you change the bed to be more level if its not auto-leveling?
Z offset will change the overall height of the nozzle. There is an option called edit level data and that's how you manually change the points to hopefully make it work more consistently.
I own two, I cheated by running the auto leveler and propping up the foots of printer by sliding balsa sheets underneath. Anywhere it said negative -0 to -0.93 i'd prop it up with balsa. Eventually I got it all green leveled.
Are you saying that you put the sheets under the bed or just under the leveler?
There's nothing wrong with shims, which would be under the bed or under the standoffs,
but if it was just under the level probe on top of the bed, this is a problem which is why I assume this isn't the thing you are doing but thought I would ask and mention it anyway.
@@Bowsmin12 . Shims underneath the bed. It also took me some trial and error. The manual should have mentioned. Wherever it's blue and if the numbers are negative it means you have to loosen the bed if it's positive you have to tighten the bed.
@@sirxavior1583 If you mean the screws, logically and typically on other models of printer I would agree. But this one is supposed to completely rely on the auto bed leveling so you're supposed to have the most consistent and immovable bed possible. If you loosen the screws on this model the bed will just be loose and move around a bit unless you shim the standoffs or something.
Some people go as far as converting the stock screws to a screws system like all the previous models of ender 3 and add the manual bed leveling since Creality is kind of dumb and released this when it doesn't work right anyway.
My main point is that I'm unsure on what you are saying to tighten or loosen and what the manual should have said to do so on. Either way, you're right and the product just wasn't and still isn't ready to be on the market.
why does it turn off after clicking leveling then does something for a second
HELP! My nozzle seems to be close to the prints but only in the front area. I have upgraded to the NebulaPad and it doesnt seem to let me manually adjust the numbers after running this print test. How do i adjust these settings with the NebulaPad?
I have manually adjust the z-axis which lessened the issue in the front, but it seems not leveled in terms of front to back height and idk how to adjust it. I am SUPER new to 3D printing
@@ambercovert4099 This is honestly my first time hearing about the nebula pad. So unfortunately I can't personally help you. If you are willing to use reddit, you might be able to try the Ender 3 V3 SE subreddit. It seems like others have been having all sorts of issues with it based on a quick scroll through. I don't know if anyone has had the same issue, but it's at least worth a look. And of course you can try making a post. Majority of the posts are support and help posts on that subreddit.
www.reddit.com/r/Ender3V3SE/
@@Bowsmin12 You are a LIFESAVER! I found a relevant post on there! Turns out I had to remove the hotbed & sand down a couple spacers under the front screws. I was then able to level it perfectly with the back. THANKS A BUNCH
@@ambercovert4099 I'm glad you found a solution. Though there should be a way to change the level data manually somehow. Or at least you would figure as much. I would do more research on that just in case for the future. I'm also probably more fearful than you when making permanent modifications. People have recommended sanding down the spacers but I'm too worried to do it until I find replacements somewhere. Anyway, I hope you enjoy your time making cool plastic thingies!
How do you turn off the auto level/auto calibration before each print?
I have mine set by myself and then evrry time it goes to print it will ne too high, so i have to fine tune Z offset within the skirt/brim print and then its fine. Its like it doesn't keep my z offset...
I think there's an on/off button for a pre calibration when starting every print. It will be on by default but you can click it off and I think it will stay that way. Unless you're having a separate issue. Let me know if this helps.
Can you explain the number grid? Or to be specific does increasing the amount raise or lower the bed. ( what puts the hot end closer to the bed .54 or .53?)
It can be confusing what raises and lowers, especially that we are working with both positive and negative numbers.
If you have a positive number and you want the nozzle closer, the visible number will decrease. If you have a negative number and want the nozzle to be closer, then the visible number will increase.
Another good way to remember is the direction you spin the knob will always do the same increase or decrease of values. I believe turning the knob to the left will always decrease the value, but I may be misremembering.
@@Bowsmin12 believe it or not but I'm still confused. But I figured it out. Turn right for bigger gap (if you are negative head towards zero if you are positive already go higher) turn left to move nozzle closer.
My printer does auto leveling fine on the whole plate except the right quarter. It was way overcompensated. Like the correct value is about -0.2x this thing had it -0.5x. but ya every time. Only the right quarter of the plate the entire other 3/4 does great.
hello there , thanks for videos like that , i want to repair somehow my ENDER 3 V3 SE which i just bought ! ... its like , it doing these test like touching all time , but just marking places , not going to mark levels if its green or something , just doing that for few times , and then its giving errror with QRCode which even doesnt work , i cant go to menu or software . Please help
I will admit I'm having a hard time following your message, but from what I remember from working on my machine, this could either be a simple fix or completely the other way.
Have you taken the bed off the magnet and tightened the screws attaching the bed to the movement chassis? This is a common and frequent issue, and some people say that even after four prints or so, you will need to tighten the screws again.
I had an error that sounds similar. I was doing some various things trying to fix up my printer and I had tightened the screws and then stopped working on it for a couple of weeks to a month, while also not using it what so ever. BUT when I came back to it and did the auto leveling sequence, it would get to the last one and then repeat the leveling process. It would do this three times until it errored and gave me a QR that I think also was unhelpful or didn't work.
I sat and watched it as it was doing this again and found that for some reason on the last level probing, it pressed down extra hard or something and started to actually move the bed downward; flexing or tiling it. (most likely tilting)
So I tightened the bed screws which didn't even feel loose at all, but that still fixed the issue, at least in my case.
If that doesn't work, the issue may be more advanced than my understanding and if you have just bought it and it's giving you issues, I would either return the printer and exchange it if possible or go to the customer support. The customer support can be frustrating but usually will be accommodating after going through enough steps.
Though I would be aware of and tell them when you are getting close to your return window closing. If you ordered it from an external source other than the Creality site, then I would probably just return and exchange if you get close to the return window closing. I was long past my return window on Amazon when I was going through my process with their support, and they refused to let me send in the printer for verification or replacement no matter how hard I tried to get them to, they were willing to send replacement parts which probably would have ended up costing them more because of the separate international shipments, but that's what they would have rather done.
Sorry for such a long reply, but I want to try to help you be as sure as possible going forward and the only way I can do that is with details. I hope this helps and let me know if any of these suggestions work out.
@@Bowsmin12thank you very much for that all information, I have bought that printer and received it today, I made all set , I noticed that also on bed , so I made it more tight, and that's all what I did , I run the printer to do it's thing , I'm sitting next to it and watch that's doing leveling with this probe thing going up and down , right now it doing just that , then it goes to 16 places than repeat , doesn't show which level is more higher or lower just that , after few times it just gives sound and QR code
@@maniakerso2 Did you tighten the screws down as far as they can go? There's not any reason as far as I know to give those bed screws any slack. If you have and it's still not working, then I can only suggest contacting support or exchanging the printer.
I don't know much about specifics in this area, but I think that on some occasions, the leveling probe light will send error codes by flashing and sometimes giving different colors.
Like I said I don't know that for sure, it's just something that I observed when the homing feature doesn't get all it's steps right and the probe can't fully drop down because the head is too close to the bed when the probe tries or something like that.
If you can observe anything like that when the issue happens, you may be able to look up the "diagnostic code" but I can't grantee that you will find anything or that will even give you a solution.
Like I said the OP, your best bet is exchanging the printer from your purchase source if possible, or you can try to see if you and I are missing a simple fix by contacting Creality Support.
If you do go the support rout, one thing I forgot to mention in my first reply was that you should get your order number and serial number because they are kind of stingy about that. Though I can also understand that they wouldn't want to help second hand buyers since they apparently have so many issues lol.
Again, I hope this helps. Let me know what you had to go with and how it all goes.
@@Bowsmin12yes I made screws on bed , I will contact the seller but I think I have found problem , when he is doing these leveling , probe doesn't touch at last place so it's right up corner , 16 place doesn't even are not touched , the diode doesn't even change color to red color
@@maniakerso2 That's interesting, if that is the case it may be a glitch in the firmware? You could try re flashing the firmware onto the machine. I think creality has a video on that subject for the SE specifically. I would check your firmware info on the machine to make sure it's whether its the .6 version or the .4 so you don't have to worry about doing the screen firmware. They stupidly make the screen a mini SD instead of full SD like the main port that's meant to be used.
Do you now what calibration as described influence on?
Regulating the flow all over the bed depending on local offset, so the model top layer is flat, but model height is not equal at all over the flat top surface, or by regulating extruder Z, so top surface od the model is parallel to the bed (warped)?
I'm not for sure if I'm understanding you right. But it makes sure your printer head is the same average distance from the bed, all over the bed. Beds often times aren't perfectly level and that's why people used to use glass. With flex beds they conform more and with the Z offset it would change the starting print height, but as a flat layer over the entire bed. With the auto probe points it shifts the height of the first layer depending on where the head is on the bed. Unfortunately most units of this printer aren't accurate with the auto level, so the manual data point leveling makes sure the Z offset is optimal across the entire bed. I hope this helps.
If anything else isn't level, like your top layer, there is probably other issues.
@@Bowsmin12 Sorry, I've made typing errors. Now I corrected it, + "*" sign beside corrected text. Please read again.
@@antunrosovic7284 Unfortunately it looks like something went wrong and the corrections didn't post. The original message doesn't have the edited tag either, so I don't know if you may have forgotten to press post or if it didn't go through but it looks like you will need to correct it again, sorry.
@@Bowsmin12 oh, yes, sorry. Now is ok.
@@antunrosovic7284 Okay. I'm sorry I'm still having a hard time understanding but I think what you're asking is, if the bed is tilted will the print be printed tilted as well and will the adjustment affect the height of the print?
if so 1. Honestly when it comes to how the finished product would come out in this scenario, it's a bit of a thinker. I think your print might be slightly crooked, but typically it's not noticeable or a big deal because of how small the variations typically are.
2. The height can be affected by the Z offset / leveling. But again this is typically too small of a variation to notice if it does affect your prints. Hopefully this helps.
What's your normal z offset
It's been a while since I've used the printer at all, so I don't remember. But it also doesn't really help to know each others offset, because it's usually different for everyone due to the actual form of the bed. Plus I remember it having a wide tolerance, (at lease in terms of 3D printing) so there isn't a true answer of how much one person will have to offset compared to the next.
Tengo una duda, al nivelarla automáticamente solo da un click, regresa a su punto de inicio, se apaga y prende y no se termina de nivelar, alguna solución? Aún nadie me puede resolver 😢
¿Has intentado volver a actualizar (reinstalar) el firmware? Si no, lo intentaría. Ojo con la versión 1.0.6, he tenido problemas para instalarla. Probaría primero la versión 1.0.4. Esto fue traducido con Google Translate, espero que ayude.
Hola, tengo el mismo problema lo pudiste solucionar?
@@aguilarescobedojonatan7622 Si bro, en mi casa hay voltaje 210 y yo puse la máquina en 230 pero lo tuve que cambiar a 115 y ya funcionó
Igual también le coloqué un regulador por las dudas de eso del voltaje, pero intenta eso
@@aguilarescobedojonatan7622 Si tienes el mismo problema, la sugerencia que le hice al otro tipo es intentar actualizar (reinstalar) el firmware y ver si funciona desde allí. Como también dije antes, tenga cuidado con la versión 1.0.6, probaría primero la 1.0.4 y vería si soluciona su problema. (traducido a través del traductor de google)
i ran the gcode nozzle scratched some areas like deep scratches what should i do? so not only a bed leveling now ive a bad plate too
did you run the auto leveling before the gcode? Or have the pre print calibration? I'm not sure why the gcode would just dig into the bed like that.
If you have already ran one of the calibrations, I would suggest upping the z offset significantly then home the printer and check it visually first. You just want it to not be too close to the bed still. If you want to actually set the z offset manually, you can attempt the classic paper method. I tried looking up some videos, but the most popular ones wither drone on in the beginning or seem to be relying on the auto level being good too. So if you don't know what I'm talking about I recommend researching it first.
In terms of the bed, I don't know of there are actually ways to repair them. Even if you "repaired" the gouge, you would loose the texturing in the section unless you add it again yourself one way or another. So you may have to get a new one or you can try messaging Creality support and see if they would send a new one since the file was provided by them, I was just the deliverer because they were stinky and didn't make it public for some reason. Though since you got if from me they may try to fight you or just claim user negligence or something like that.
The good news about buying a new bed is that you can get a better quality one, often not much more expensive than a straight Creality replacement. You can also explore PEI or PEO or something like that. I think they give them different names for different patterns. But there are these cool other plates you can get that have a side that is mostly flat with a cool pattern for your first layer and a textured side for tougher or certain material prints. Just be warned the the PEI and PEO don't work well with all materials. I don't remember exactly, but I think when you use PETG and possibly some other types of materials, it sticks too well and often if you get the print off the bed, some of the bed comes with it. I may be wrong but I thought it was worth asking. If you use PLA all the time or just for now then it should work great. It should also hopefully tell you in the product description.
Affiliate Link - Textured and crystal style bed - amzn.to/3VP0v3a
This listing has different styles and sizes. I bought something like this for my P1P and it works better than the name brand. You will have to take out the alignment screws on the back of printer's bed chassis probably. Also if you do go for one on this listing, double check the size of the bed, and you shouldn't need a magnet plate because there's one on the printer already.
The rainbow ones somehow imprint that effect onto the first layer as well, which you may be able to use creatively, though on this listing it looks like there isn't one of the rainbow ones with the textured other side. I would recommend playing it safe and getting one with at least one side of the gold style textured surface. Though I think you could get one with that on both sides as well and I think this type of surface works with all materials. But again do some research and check my facts because I may be miss remembering.
I know this was long but I hope it helps.
@@Bowsmin12 thank you will try, I might've ruined the z while trying the creality service tutorial where they adjust with the glue sticks underneath, their tutorials are total crap or I might be just unlucky. My printer actually worked too well for the first few days then suddenly my prints started to not stick on the bed, nozzle started to stick on the extruded models on mid way etc. I ordered a pei sheet waiting for it arrive to try all the steps again in before I throw the machine off
@@akalpozkidirir2059 Their tutorials aren't the best but they can usually get the idea across from what I've seen. Though I have to mute the audio to be able to focus on the text since there's no dang voice over or anything like that.
My guess for why the prints stopped sticking is that maybe the auto leveling was still a bit too close (that seems to be common with the stock bed) and just wore down the bed? That's only an educated guess but many people recommend changing to a different, higher quality bed anyway. Kind of like what I sent before. But some people also say you need to find the tolerance for the Z offset inaccuracy and try to manually compensate for it, usually by raising it a small bit.
Some people say that you shouldn't follow the creality tutorial about the glue stick method and say you should try to print these : www.printables.com/model/853057-x-axis-leveling-blocks-guide-for-ender-3-v3-se-ke
I don't know how much it really matters as long as your bed looks level by eyeballing it. If it's visually off, you may need to fix that. but figured I would mention it. It's probably something you can do after you get your printer printing at least at an okay quality if you really want to, especially if you don't have any other 3D printers.
@@Bowsmin12 do you have a discord or somewhere I can reach you out I really need help I been pulling my hairs since then I can't fix it properly :(
@@akalpozkidirir2059 My discord is the same username, just without the music. But I will warn you, I am no expert and my machine doesn't currently even work properly either lol. But I haven't taken the time to sit down with mine and manually level it again since trying some other fixes.
I hate to be so dense but kind of new to this. I've copied the Creality test print spoken of to a text doc, but what do I do with it now?
Github doesn't make it obvious, but you have to download the raw file. When you're looking at the code, don't. At the header of it, where it says code and blame, look to the right side of that bar and click the download button. You should then be able to import the Gcode file into Creality print. Let me know if you can find everything alright. I can make a small video tutorial if needed.
Got it. Thanks.@@Bowsmin12
I’ve had 5 of these none lasting more than a week before the print quality became very poor then eventually printing nothing. They are garbage.
Hello wee dog.
When i do the automated level test, my 3D printer shuts down. Is that normal?
When does it shut down?
@@Bowsmin12 Hi, it was because my printer was on 230 V Instead of 120 V
@@PrimerOrdenVenezuela Very common, at least it was an easy fix!
do you the gcode for any other calibration prints from creality?
Most other test prints are made by the community publicly for anyone to use on sites like thingiverse and printables. There is a public version of the 4x4 point grid made by someone on printables now. The link for the original test is in the description. Hope this helps.
@@Bowsmin12 thanks, it did help.
I hate it when my nozzle rubs too close to the bed. It does end up making a mess requiring the bed to be cleaned before trying again.
;)
I have a nebula pad, cant edit
I think I've heard about that issue before. Unfortunately the few times I've heard of the nebula pad, they weren't good things.
Arrrghhg, - that audio processing 🥺😮😵💫😫😩
What's wrong with it
@@Bowsmin12 its noisy